I hope you found this video helpful! If you did and want to learn more be sure to check out my channel over 300 videos to help you with your project! if your new to the channel leave me a comment or question!
Hi garagenoise, thanks for posting this video. It is by far the most informative one I’ve found yet! I just finished sanding my 84 blazer with 320. Do I have to primer the whole thing if I am going to paint it the same color? I am going to use ‘hot rod flatz’ in the buckskin tan color that matches the factory color almost exactly. Thanks in advance for your help and this awesome video!
@@xjx7893 no, not necessarily. It depends, if you sanding for adhision purposes than no you don't have to primer the whole vehicle. If your not going to primer some areas I would recommend sanding with 600 before paint. Of course you want to primer over body filler work or any bare metal. Appreciate your question and support!
@garagenoise thank you so much for the info. This will be a huge help for me. I will hit the areas that won’t need primer with 600 and finish all the primered spots with 320. I really appreciate your help and videos. They are super helpful.
Your videos are awesome. Just finished a project using the Astro EVOT 13. No fish eyes, no solvent pops, no orange peel, and the clear looks like glass! Thanks so much.
@@sheri4673 no need to primer if the paint is in good condition. Sand with 600 and paint. A 600 grit sponge sanding pad would work well for sanding in the jambs make sure the gloss is knocked off should look dull after sanding.
Dude looks like a magician... so smooth. I got several areas of paint dimpling and chipping on my door panels .. got touch up paint, followed instructions and still screwed it up.. sigh. Love watching people make it look so easy, hence pay if you want it to look pretty, haha. Great job!
this is awesome. thank you. I made the mistake of just going at it without doing any research, thought id just take it down to bare metal but found out that i didnt have to. Luckily i havnt gotten that far.
Very helpful videos!! Here in Atlanta everybody is using Multifiller express from Roberlo Brand, is a high built 2k primer DTM (direct to Metal) so no need to spray a self etching primer first . Thanks for your videos
@@GarageNoise car turned out pretty good for a first attempt. Some darker streaks on the edge of the doors, I should've gone all the way across rather than panel by panel (now I know how to improve my technique). 2 or 3 drips from my gun leaking. Basecoat went down good, my finishing on the clear is a little rough though. Not as glossy as I want it and surface is a little grippy when I run a fiber cloth over it (washed the car 2-3 weeks later and the drying towel was gripping). I used acrylic and I know that that's very soft paint. I was wondering when I could wet sand to give it a smoother finish? Or if I can even wet sand acrylic?
@@tunaSalsa ok , just wanted to clarify that you indeed had clearcoat before answering. Yes, you can color sand your clear smooth and I like to give the clear at least 24hrs to cure. I have several videos on this topic. Sounds like you got a handle on it and your next one will be better than the last!
Thank you for referencing the aerosol etch primer on the bare metal. Painting for the first time and I've heard so many different things about aerosol primers and 2k primer.
If you have some pics on the truck and progress, email them to me. I want to start sharing veiwer projects. garagenoise247@gmail.com I appreciate the comment and support.
what's crazy to me is i'm also working on a obs stepside bed!!! i was just looking informative videos but you have the exact same part as me which is crazy!! cheers
Rebuilding a VW Bug from the ground up, wanting to paint it myself. Never attempted the painting before. Your video was very helpful. Definitely going to check out some more of your videos.
Thanks brother! Please do I think you'll find some useful info. I will be posting a series of videos starting very soon on a complete paint job on a chevy truck so stay tuned. Appreciate the support!
Dude love the video, I need this and more beginner videos. I want to start work on my 1970 Roadrunner. I dont know how and what I need to start with. I'd like a good paint job but it'll never be a show car.
Looks satisfying…. I’m just trying my first paint job. Ecoat parts, but hood had a ding on an edge, so I sanded to metal, put body filler, sanded with 80, the 150, and sprayed rattle primer on it…. 10min later, another light coat of prime…. Then tried to sand it and all went to shit. Repeated the steps 3 times, learned that wet sanding didn’t gouge the primer and filler.
Spray can 1k primer takes forever to dry. My advice is to use 2k primer. If you use 1k primer then paint it with base coat and then clearcoat your paint will react and wrinkle up and cause more headaches then it's worth. Thank's for watching appreciate the support!
@@GarageNoise My plan is to spray sealer that I already bought. I wasn’t going to use any primer at all, but had that small repair. I hope sealer will suffice, the base, and clear.
@@RC.56 it may be ok. I'm assuming its a 1k sealer? It would be better if it's 2k sealer. If your paint was breaking down from the sun the only issue you might have with just sealer is over time baking in the sun could cause your new paint to soak into and shrink into that old paint . I would recommend at the least a 2k sealer a 2k primer is better yet . Just a heads up. You might totally get away with just sealing it before paint there's alot of factors. Hope it all works out well!
Excellent videos. My 01 Silverado the clear coat is gone on all the tops were the sun beats down on them.Only edges are flaky and chalky. Do I have to sand off all the clear coat or just feather the edges. What about the clear on the side of fenders,doors, and bed do I scuff them with 320 for primer.
Hi Chris. Follower here watching most of your videos trying to learn this art. I have a question: Is there in any situation where you would use a 1k primer these days?
Not really, I took me awhile to make that switch but once I did no reason to go back. Less shrinkage, sand better, dries quickly, and never have a chemical reaction.
That really depends on the condition of your paint. If it is really delaminated your better off stripping it to bare metal. If you sanding scratches out than no need to strip it.
Hey, what's going on, Chris? I've seen one of your videos you used that USC glazing filler .my question is, can l apply the usc icing to direct metal, or does it need to be on some filler ? The reason l ask is because l only need a very thin amount across the area I'm working on, and the area l worked is now sanded to metal .just wanted to see lf could just skim the area with the usc icing.
I would apply primer first then you could use icing. I wouldn't feel comfortable apply it to bare metal but if you really want to you can check the Technical data sheet to see what they recommend. Appreciate your comment and support!
By the way, thank you for replying back to me. I just been going back-and-forth on this quarter. Panel trying to get it right and when you're standing on surface that's got a lot of curves. It's hard to make them all meet each other correctly.
I just subd and you definitely know your craft. So, to anyone out there, I have a 2005 Malibu, and the paint is pretty good on 3/4 of the car. The hood, left front fender and halfway down the driver's side has really worn paint, the fender is showing black through the paint. This car only has 70k original miles and runs well. It was owned by a lovely elderly woman who is now in a retirement home. I've heard that you can get original color spray cans at the parts store. Am I wasting time trying color match it in my driveway? Not trying to be cheap, just don't have much of a budget! If this is the route I go, do I need to prime the whole thing?
Question - I am unable to get Prep Sol in California to prep my panels before primer. Do you have a recommendation for an alternative. Can I just mix 50/50 Iso alcohol and water? Thanks....
If I understand correctly past the sanded area, of course anywhere your appling primer must be sanded. You don't want to primer up to a tape edge ,you don't want a hard line of primer. Hope this helps!
If your changing the color and the paint is in good condition. You don't have to strip it to bare metal and sometimes it's better not to. If there is severe delamination or cracking in the paint then you should strip the paint on those panels. Hopes this help, thank you for the comment and supporting the channel!
I would use a water based cleaner like spray away glass cleaner or isopropyl alcohol with a low flash point like 70%. You have to be careful with wax and Grease remover with fiberglass. Appreciate the support!
Great question! Don't apply filler over self etching primer. If you want to have a substate to apply filler over epoxy primer is the way to go. Now always refer to the products Technical data sheet. Self etching primer is a chemical bond with metal and i suppose it just doesn't bond to filler well cause it not recommended .welcome to the channel And the community!
Great stuff thanks iam going to do my Suzuki grand vitara just to tidy it up abit body work is mostly good can I just remove to the top coat a paint straight over that once its sanded properly or do I have to prime it first either way thanks in advance
If the old paint is in good shape, meaning it's still smooth and not delaminated from the sun, then yes you can paint over it after properly prepared. Post photo results @ #garagenoise247 on Instagram thanks!
Hi I'm really like your videos, if you can help me with this, High Solids Urethane Clear Coat with a 4 to 1 Mixing Ratio, when they 4 parts clear and 1 hardener I understand but if I need in my cup 50ml or 100l what the Ratio? going to be, Please kindly reply. Thank you
Dupli color I believe is lacquer. This will sometimes lift paint. 2k urethane primer should solve that or sometimes if you dust on the duplicolor and gradually build the primer you can sometimes keep it from lifting.
@@GarageNoise if I want to use as primer I mix 4 parts high build 1 part hardener then add 10% urethane reducer? Thanks again. I’m new at this and get nervous. 😬
If no bare on vehicle do I need to put primer or a epoxy primer and sealer and if I am painting a vehicle another color do I need a primer. I don't have bare metal on my truck so would think primer is not necessary but the last time put primer on the vehicle but I don't think I should of but it was on just smaller spots on vehicle just wanted to blend the spots in I know I will need a reducer which have at home because painting my vehicle another color later in the year but as far as using a primer I don't think I will need.
If you don't have bare metal don't use epoxy primer. If you paint is in good condition you may not need primer. If your doing a color change I would recommend sealer or 2k urethane primer. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. It answered several questions I had about cracks, fiberglass, sanding, and what exactly 2k primer is. Going to repaint my 98 Ranger (from faded black to turquoise.) My brother and I once painted an old school bus with single stage, so I have a little experience. Thanks.
I thought your primer fan was very narrow instead of wide. I'd guess you are using less air pressure to avoid a ton of overspray and you have the time. Not sure. My devilbiss FLG-3 has a 2.2 tip and it can 'dial down' the fluid when needed too.
Yes, pretty much. I don't like to primer over 180 with 2k urethane primer. Others techs might say it's ok and technically it is but there's a greater chance of primer shrinking in those scratches and showing up in you finished repair. So I don't take the chance. Hope this helps! welcome to the channel I appreciate the support!
@@GarageNoise Great information bud. My fiancé was like your still watching them videos 😂 like we have things to do and I was like and I have things to learn 🤣. God bless brother 🙏
My truck is in pretty decent shape I want to do a color change what grit do you recommend clear coat and everything is intact what should I do before primer
Depends on condition of your Current paint. If your paint is in good shape , meaning it's not peeling of chalky from sun than you can sand it with 400 and paint over that. You may want to seal it before you apply color depending on how drastic the color change is.
@@JayLupe Good question a sealer is something applied just before you paint it does a few things it creates one uniform color so it's easier to cover with less paint. It seals the surface creating a barrier between the surface and the paint. Why is this necessary because new paint can have a bad reaction to old paint . What is sealer it is basically thin primer. There are different types of sealer . 1k sealer meaning it drys on it's own or catalyzed 2k primer in this case a harden is added to force the primer to cure and harden over the surface. Is it necessary that depends on the surface your painting. I hope this helps!
@@GarageNoise Hey mate, do you mean 2k prime and then additionally seal (thin prime) it, as well? I'm repainting my truck - paint is quite good. I'm sanding back with 400 and then I'm guessing prime, seal and paint. is this correct? Also, it's my first time painting in a booth with spray gun, do you think it's better for me to do 2k base coat and then 2k clear? Or 2k top coat and call it day? Cheers!
@@danparsons5996 Are you changing color? If paint is in good condition you may not need to prime or seal. Is it a clearcoat you are sanding? If it is and it's in good condition 400 the color (basecoat ) and clear. If you changing color you might want to seal so you have better coverage.
If the paint is cracked down to metal or just in really bad condition overall then it better to strip paint but it sound like the rough areas you have could be sanded smooth and rhem primed. If you want to email me photos I could advise you. garagenoise247@gmail.com
This is just a 1.4 with thicker primers like epoxy or polyester primers you may have to use a larger tip . For 2k I've always had good results with the 1.4
If you primer a large area I perfer 2k epoxy primer over bare metal. For small areas to cover metal self etching is fine. Yes you want to avoid using any 2k over 1k primer.
Most parts you think are fiberglass are most likely S.M.C. Sheet.Moulded. Compound and you need to use an S.M.C compatible resin. I use All Resin from SMC.
I have a 2008 GMC Sierra with paint peeling off everywhere and I have got plenty of dents on it through out the years. I want to repair the dents and primer it but I'm afraid I will end up regretting doing it my self.
I have plenty of video's on dent repair and painting . There's no shortage of info on the web. I would start by doing one small panel as a test maybe the fender, do that panel from start to finish build you confidence. You can do it!
Ok ,so I just tried sanding my car with 80 grit hart sandpaper and it's taking FOREVER!!!! My car has been painted once over the original paint.So could it be because the thickness of the aftermarket Clearcoat? Yours just seems to be going really quick!! I am using a 12V plug it orbital standard sander.could that be the problem?I also don't have an air compressor that big to be sufficient enough for a high powered sander.Any tips? Material or sander you would recommend that is a plug in.I would appreciate any tips or help.Thank you in advance sir!!
I have a question, is your sandpaper gumming up? So after you sand for five minutes with a fresh sheet of paper look at the sandpaper, is there pieces of paint stuck to the paper? My sander is electric but it's pricey like $600. Also what brand of sandpaper are you using?
@@GarageNoise it doesn't really gum up.I use a 20 dollar hyper tough orbital sander from Walmart because I'm a broke parent lol.Also, I am using a soft pad on it so I can hit the edges,but it seems to barely scuff it.I take off more from using a block sander by hand sanding it in 10 minutes compared to 30 minutes with the electrical one.Im also using a Walmart brand sand paper by hartz.I guess, in this case, you get what you pay for judging off your 600 dollar sander lol
Are you taking it down to bare metal? It's possible it could be the sander. More likely the sand paper you might try getting some good 80 grit from 3m . I think it's most likely the sander.
@@GarageNoise not so much to barely metal but down to the original color and as much as possible trying to keep the factory primer.I'll definitely try the 3m sand paper.Thank you very much for the help and suggestions sir!
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos! I have a question, I am painting over old paint, I’m reading online that you should leave the car at 180 and not 320 so the high build can grab better? I have some bondo spots too would you recommend leaving that at 180 and the rest of the car still at 320? Or the entire car with bondo at 180? Thanks
You can primer over the 180 and probably be fine. The reason I don't recommend that is because primer shrinks, even 2k primer . When it shrinks ,it can shrink into the 180 scratches and those can be visible in your finished product. Check the technical data sheet on the primer your using it should have a recommendation. Thanks for watching!
@@GarageNoise you rock I can’t thank you enough for what you do. I’ve watched countless videos and you get right to the point and explain in detail. You are a life saver for beginners like me
@@GarageNoise I just applied two coats of Rustoleum auto primer on a small fiberglass panel (license place pocket). It now has a dusty or chalky appearance with the dry primer rubbing off on a tack cloth. What did I do wrong?
@@raymondp.kotiiesq.5934 I don't know that you did anything wrong. It sounds like it's been applied a litte to dry. Let it dry sand it put a few coats on ,put you final coat on wet. Should be fine .
What will be a decent air compressor size to run tools , and paint ??. I don’t have 220 v in my garage , so got to be 110 v unit , maybe from Harbor freight . Thanks for any input .
I can look into it but the focus when choosing a compressor is the highest cmfs production you can. I'm comfortable with around 15cmf production for an overall paint job. You can paint with less but you may have air fluctuations when you paint wich makes it more difficult. It might be hard to get 15 cfm from 120 but get as high as you can.
Not always, If your preping metal and there's no dents you may not need to block it but if you need to remove rough or faded paint and need to apply primer its a good idea to block the primer just to get the best finished product before applying paint. Thanks for watching and the comment.
I hope you found this video helpful! If you did and want to learn more be sure to check out my channel over 300 videos to help you with your project!
if your new to the channel leave me a comment or question!
Hi garagenoise, thanks for posting this video. It is by far the most informative one I’ve found yet! I just finished sanding my 84 blazer with 320. Do I have to primer the whole thing if I am going to paint it the same color? I am going to use ‘hot rod flatz’ in the buckskin tan color that matches the factory color almost exactly. Thanks in advance for your help and this awesome video!
@@xjx7893 no, not necessarily. It depends, if you sanding for adhision purposes than no you don't have to primer the whole vehicle. If your not going to primer some areas I would recommend sanding with 600 before paint. Of course you want to primer over body filler work or any bare metal. Appreciate your question and support!
@garagenoise thank you so much for the info. This will be a huge help for me. I will hit the areas that won’t need primer with 600 and finish all the primered spots with 320. I really appreciate your help and videos. They are super helpful.
What did you wipe it down with?
Your videos are awesome. Just finished a project using the Astro EVOT 13. No fish eyes, no solvent pops, no orange peel, and the clear looks like glass! Thanks so much.
That's fantastic! Helping the viewers get great results is what this is all about. Thanks so much for sharing.
@@sheri4673 no need to primer if the paint is in good condition. Sand with 600 and paint. A 600 grit sponge sanding pad would work well for sanding in the jambs make sure the gloss is knocked off should look dull after sanding.
Very nice work! Your primer went on so smooth and well-coated the first time. You did a great job sanding it down.
Thank you! Appreciate the comment and support!
Hi
What is best spray gun size tipe used for high built primer, which you recommend?
Thank you
Yes goo and helping me because I want do paint my old car by myself.thank for your video.good for beginners
Happy to help! Appreciate the comment and support!
I’ve watched several videos on how to do this and this is by far the most clear and concise video I’ve watched. Thank you very much!
Wow, really appreciate that! Thank's for the support!
Dude looks like a magician... so smooth. I got several areas of paint dimpling and chipping on my door panels .. got touch up paint, followed instructions and still screwed it up.. sigh. Love watching people make it look so easy, hence pay if you want it to look pretty, haha. Great job!
Appreciate the support brother! Keep workin at it!
this is awesome. thank you. I made the mistake of just going at it without doing any research, thought id just take it down to bare metal but found out that i didnt have to. Luckily i havnt gotten that far.
Very helpful videos!! Here in Atlanta everybody is using Multifiller express from Roberlo Brand, is a high built 2k primer DTM (direct to Metal) so no need to spray a self etching primer first . Thanks for your videos
I used that for quite sometime as well, good primer.
agree, If the factory finish is on and intact, I like to use it.... interested in the fiberglass prep too...
Doing my first ever diy full respray, and this was SUPER helpful! Thanks buddy!
Great let me know how it turns out!
@@GarageNoise car turned out pretty good for a first attempt. Some darker streaks on the edge of the doors, I should've gone all the way across rather than panel by panel (now I know how to improve my technique). 2 or 3 drips from my gun leaking. Basecoat went down good, my finishing on the clear is a little rough though. Not as glossy as I want it and surface is a little grippy when I run a fiber cloth over it (washed the car 2-3 weeks later and the drying towel was gripping). I used acrylic and I know that that's very soft paint. I was wondering when I could wet sand to give it a smoother finish? Or if I can even wet sand acrylic?
@@tunaSalsa you used acrylic basecoat then clear topcoat?
@@GarageNoise I'm not too sure what you mean. Yeah, I used acrylic basecoat then used a clearcoat that came with it
@@tunaSalsa ok , just wanted to clarify that you indeed had clearcoat before answering. Yes, you can color sand your clear smooth and I like to give the clear at least 24hrs to cure. I have several videos on this topic. Sounds like you got a handle on it and your next one will be better than the last!
Thank you for referencing the aerosol etch primer on the bare metal. Painting for the first time and I've heard so many different things about aerosol primers and 2k primer.
No problem! Appreciate the comment!
I see you use the Mirka System, been in paint and body and mechanics for the last 40 years, you have a good channel and really good skill, be proud.
Thank you brother! Appreciate the support!
@Garage Noise found one with rock chip, you knock it out of the park once again!
I like your video it's simple and quiet . Looks better this way
Nice work love the details and materials
Great informative video, I learnt a lot. Cheers mate !
Thank you! Appreciate the comment and support!
awesome video, im planning to primer my 68 f-100 and this should help alot! awesome info.
If you have some pics on the truck and progress, email them to me. I want to start sharing veiwer projects. garagenoise247@gmail.com
I appreciate the comment and support.
what's crazy to me is i'm also working on a obs stepside bed!!! i was just looking informative videos but you have the exact same part as me which is crazy!! cheers
👍👊
Thanks for the video trying to learn how to do it myself preciate it
Awesome! That's what this channel is all about! Appreciate the comment and support!
Excited To Do This To My 05 Chevy Silverado!! Thanks Man!!
Awesome! I've got another full paint coming up on the channel 92 chevy 4x4 .
@@GarageNoise That’s Awesome Cant Wait To See It!!!!
Great job. Thanks for posting. Very clear and to the point. This helped alot
Thank's brother! Appreciate the support!
Very good information thank you for the time
👊 appreciate your comment!
Rebuilding a VW Bug from the ground up, wanting to paint it myself. Never attempted the painting before. Your video was very helpful. Definitely going to check out some more of your videos.
Thanks brother! Please do I think you'll find some useful info. I will be posting a series of videos starting very soon on a complete paint job on a chevy truck so stay tuned. Appreciate the support!
I love my Mirka sanding system.
Best tool I ever purcased!
Pretty good mate. Very helpful for my car that has a Big Crunch in the rear wing.
Right to the point , no BS very helpful information, new sub .
Thanks brother .
Thank's brother appreciate it and welcome!
Dude love the video, I need this and more beginner videos. I want to start work on my 1970 Roadrunner. I dont know how and what I need to start with. I'd like a good paint job but it'll never be a show car.
Check my playlist, I have a playlist dedicated to painting your vehicle
How about priming with a rattle can!
It's ok, but I would use 2k primer.
Looks satisfying…. I’m just trying my first paint job. Ecoat parts, but hood had a ding on an edge, so I sanded to metal, put body filler, sanded with 80, the 150, and sprayed rattle primer on it…. 10min later, another light coat of prime…. Then tried to sand it and all went to shit.
Repeated the steps 3 times, learned that wet sanding didn’t gouge the primer and filler.
Spray can 1k primer takes forever to dry. My advice is to use 2k primer. If you use 1k primer then paint it with base coat and then clearcoat your paint will react and wrinkle up and cause more headaches then it's worth. Thank's for watching appreciate the support!
@@GarageNoise
My plan is to spray sealer that I already bought. I wasn’t going to use any primer at all, but had that small repair.
I hope sealer will suffice, the base, and clear.
@@RC.56 it may be ok. I'm assuming its a 1k sealer? It would be better if it's 2k sealer. If your paint was breaking down from the sun the only issue you might have with just sealer is over time baking in the sun could cause your new paint to soak into and shrink into that old paint . I would recommend at the least a 2k sealer a 2k primer is better yet . Just a heads up. You might totally get away with just sealing it before paint there's alot of factors. Hope it all works out well!
Good job
Thank's brother!
Super helpful, thank you!
I believe the box sides are polyurethane on a stepside. I have the same truck.
👍
Excellent videos. My 01 Silverado the clear coat is gone on all the tops were the sun beats down on them.Only edges are flaky and chalky. Do I have to sand off all the clear coat or just feather the edges. What about the clear on the side of fenders,doors, and bed do I scuff them with 320 for primer.
Feather edge clear is good, Then primer. 320 is good before primer on sides.
Thumbs up !
nice work. Now if your paint is falling off "GM" like mine do you have to strip it all or just to good material? Thanks
I would probably strip it all, your taking a chance if you don't.
Stoked I watched this video before I started on my bonnet cheers bro
Hi Chris. Follower here watching most of your videos trying to learn this art. I have a question: Is there in any situation where you would use a 1k primer these days?
Not really, I took me awhile to make that switch but once I did no reason to go back. Less shrinkage, sand better, dries quickly, and never have a chemical reaction.
Great video bro!
Thank's brother appreciate the support!
Just subscribed. Should I sand to bare metal if I have rust and crows feet?
If you've got paint checking than yes it'd be a good idea.
Great video! Wouldn't you rather use epoxy primer over bare metal due to its non-porous properties?
Great vid
Thank you!
You can go metal, etch and straight to 2k primer? No need for epoxy?
HI CHRIS THAT DEVIBLISS IS THAT A 1 4 FOR PRIMER
I think it is but could be a 1.3 I spray my primer thin
Finally a well defined video. Thanks for sharing brotha ❤️👍🏼
Can you use 220 grit instead of 180 im assuming it wouldnt make that much of a difference thanks
Yes, for sure
great usable video thank you
Hey what tip and air cap did you have in that devilbiss gun for spraying that primer
Nice video❤
Thank's brother!
So do I have to sand down to the bare metal if I’m keeping the same color car?
That really depends on the condition of your paint. If it is really delaminated your better off stripping it to bare metal. If you sanding scratches out than no need to strip it.
Hey, what's going on, Chris? I've seen one of your videos you used that USC glazing filler .my question is, can l apply the usc icing to direct metal, or does it need to be on some filler ? The reason l ask is because l only need a very thin amount across the area I'm working on, and the area l worked is now sanded to metal .just wanted to see lf could just skim the area with the usc icing.
I would apply primer first then you could use icing. I wouldn't feel comfortable apply it to bare metal but if you really want to you can check the Technical data sheet to see what they recommend. Appreciate your comment and support!
Maybe I'll just add a thin coat of body filler, but it's such a thin amount, and then I'll go over with this icing
By the way, thank you for replying back to me. I just been going back-and-forth on this quarter. Panel trying to get it right and when you're standing on surface that's got a lot of curves. It's hard to make them all meet each other correctly.
You da Man !!!
👍
If the base sanded with p 600 will there be traces left after the colorless warnish? Thanks.
Help me understand your question.
What grit would you have to sand up to if you want to do sealer instead of regular primer
600 grit
I did this yesterday had to use p80 grit because truck had four layers of different color paint now do I follow that with 180 220 then 320 or
Yes, 180 then I go to 320. But you could do 220 then 320.
@@GarageNoise thanks alot
With which paper should the base coat be sanded before warnishing with colorless warnish?
320 before primer
I just subd and you definitely know your craft. So, to anyone out there, I have a 2005 Malibu, and the paint is pretty good on 3/4 of the car. The hood, left front fender and halfway down the driver's side has really worn paint, the fender is showing black through the paint. This car only has 70k original miles and runs well. It was owned by a lovely elderly woman who is now in a retirement home. I've heard that you can get original color spray cans at the parts store. Am I wasting time trying color match it in my driveway? Not trying to be cheap, just don't have much of a budget! If this is the route I go, do I need to prime the whole thing?
Thank you
Hey GN, I have a 30 year old truck. Is it better to sand it to bare metal and apply primer? Thank you
Is it better? Absolutely yes! Is it always necessary no just depends on the condition of the paint and your expectations for the results.
Question - I am unable to get Prep Sol in California to prep my panels before primer.
Do you have a recommendation for an alternative. Can I just mix 50/50 Iso alcohol and water?
Thanks....
You can use isopropyl alcohol.
Do I spray primer past the sanded area or just inside the sanded area to prevent hard edges if it's masked
If I understand correctly past the sanded area, of course anywhere your appling primer must be sanded. You don't want to primer up to a tape edge ,you don't want a hard line of primer. Hope this helps!
Wow, that gun looks close to the part..
What , like a .6" standoff?
;)
What kind of primer paint can is that you used
That's just some self etching primer for the bare metal
so you have to always sand primer before painting ?
Yes,for adhesion
Can you prime over 320 with high build primer?
Yes
Do you have to sand self etching primer??
So I’m working on a maroon 07 Tahoe, i want to change the color to a royal blue, is it better to sand it down to the base or bare metal for new paint?
If your changing the color and the paint is in good condition. You don't have to strip it to bare metal and sometimes it's better not to. If there is severe delamination or cracking in the paint then you should strip the paint on those panels. Hopes this help, thank you for the comment and supporting the channel!
What did u wipe the truck down with before primer?
I would use a water based cleaner like spray away glass cleaner or isopropyl alcohol with a low flash point like 70%. You have to be careful with wax and Grease remover with fiberglass. Appreciate the support!
Can the New base coat be sanded before clear coat?
Yes lightly, to remove imperfections. You need to apply a additional coat of bade before clearcoat tho.
@@GarageNoise which papier?
600 or 800
Thank you..sir.
Yw, thank's for the support!
I really appreciate your reaching
Great. Nice to refresh after a day of this! Ha 😂
Amazing
Can I apply bondo over the self etching primer or any prime surface ??.
Great question! Don't apply filler over self etching primer. If you want to have a substate to apply filler over epoxy primer is the way to go. Now always refer to the products Technical data sheet. Self etching primer is a chemical bond with metal and i suppose it just doesn't bond to filler well cause it not recommended .welcome to the channel And the community!
Great stuff thanks iam going to do my Suzuki grand vitara just to tidy it up abit body work is mostly good can I just remove to the top coat a paint straight over that once its sanded properly or do I have to prime it first either way thanks in advance
If the old paint is in good shape, meaning it's still smooth and not delaminated from the sun, then yes you can paint over it after properly prepared. Post photo results @ #garagenoise247 on Instagram thanks!
Hi
I'm really like your videos, if you can help me with this, High Solids Urethane Clear Coat with a 4 to 1 Mixing Ratio, when they 4 parts clear and 1 hardener I understand but if I need in my cup 50ml or 100l what the Ratio? going to be, Please kindly reply. Thank you
Divide the amount of clear you want by 4 and activator by 1
I had to feather some chips out that went to bare metal, duplicolor primer caused the feathered edge of old paint to lift. What primer is needed?
Dupli color I believe is lacquer. This will sometimes lift paint. 2k urethane primer should solve that or sometimes if you dust on the duplicolor and gradually build the primer you can sometimes keep it from lifting.
Great Video! I have Upol 2k primer and it says that you can apply directly to metal. Is that correct? Thanks
That is correct
@@GarageNoise if I want to use as primer I mix 4 parts high build 1 part hardener then add 10% urethane reducer?
Thanks again. I’m new at this and get nervous. 😬
@@dxrcat ok, for a primer surface which is a thin primer 4:1:1 primer, hardner, urethane reducer
Can u use acetone to clean your surface instead of wax and grease remover
I would use isopropyl alcohol before acetone. Acetone might remove paint , I haven't used it enough to know.
If no bare on vehicle do I need to put primer or a epoxy primer and sealer and if I am painting a vehicle another color do I need a primer. I don't have bare metal on my truck so would think primer is not necessary but the last time put primer on the vehicle but I don't think I should of but it was on just smaller spots on vehicle just wanted to blend the spots in I know I will need a reducer which have at home because painting my vehicle another color later in the year but as far as using a primer I don't think I will need.
If you don't have bare metal don't use epoxy primer. If you paint is in good condition you may not need primer. If your doing a color change I would recommend sealer or 2k urethane primer. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
@@GarageNoise thanks.
Thanks for the video. It answered several questions I had about cracks, fiberglass, sanding, and what exactly 2k primer is.
Going to repaint my 98 Ranger (from faded black to turquoise.)
My brother and I once painted an old school bus with single stage, so I have a little experience.
Thanks.
@@StarJar58 You welcome and thanks for watching!
I thought your primer fan was very narrow instead of wide. I'd guess you are using less air pressure to avoid a ton of overspray and you have the time. Not sure. My devilbiss FLG-3 has a 2.2 tip and it can 'dial down' the fluid when needed too.
Yes lower air pressure and because of that I was spaying alot closer to the panel to get the primer to flow out. Appreciate the support!
I been watching your video since yesterday all day lol. Question do you sand over any part that has 180 grit and just finished it off with 320 ?
Yes, pretty much. I don't like to primer over 180 with 2k urethane primer. Others techs might say it's ok and technically it is but there's a greater chance of primer shrinking in those scratches and showing up in you finished repair. So I don't take the chance. Hope this helps! welcome to the channel I appreciate the support!
@@GarageNoise Great information bud. My fiancé was like your still watching them videos 😂 like we have things to do and I was like and I have things to learn 🤣. God bless brother 🙏
@@pcdetail602 lol, My wife says your still making those videos! I'm like I've got things to teach! Appreciate it brother . Don't get it the dog house.
Any advice for surface rust?
If it's just surface rust you could use 180 grit if that doesn't cut it 80 grit👍
@@GarageNoise do you have to take it all the way off? The surface rust?
@@leevega9235 yes
Great teaching and info. How long do you recommend before painting? Some do right away some say wait a week for primer to shrink
Thank's brother, If you have the time I would wait a two weeks.
We prime and paint in same day at my shop sometimes 😂
My truck is in pretty decent shape I want to do a color change what grit do you recommend clear coat and everything is intact what should I do before primer
Depends on condition of your Current paint. If your paint is in good shape , meaning it's not peeling of chalky from sun than you can sand it with 400 and paint over that. You may want to seal it before you apply color depending on how drastic the color change is.
@@GarageNoise ive heard of people saying "apply a seal".. what is a seal? And why is it necessary?
@@JayLupe Good question a sealer is something applied just before you paint it does a few things it creates one uniform color so it's easier to cover with less paint. It seals the surface creating a barrier between the surface and the paint. Why is this necessary because new paint can have a bad reaction to old paint . What is sealer it is basically thin primer. There are different types of sealer . 1k sealer meaning it drys on it's own or catalyzed 2k primer in this case a harden is added to force the primer to cure and harden over the surface. Is it necessary that depends on the surface your painting. I hope this helps!
@@GarageNoise Hey mate, do you mean 2k prime and then additionally seal (thin prime) it, as well? I'm repainting my truck - paint is quite good. I'm sanding back with 400 and then I'm guessing prime, seal and paint. is this correct? Also, it's my first time painting in a booth with spray gun, do you think it's better for me to do 2k base coat and then 2k clear? Or 2k top coat and call it day? Cheers!
@@danparsons5996 Are you changing color? If paint is in good condition you may not need to prime or seal. Is it a clearcoat you are sanding? If it is and it's in good condition 400 the color (basecoat ) and clear. If you changing color you might want to seal so you have better coverage.
How do i know if i need to sand my paint off. The paint on my car is fine but certain patches have come up the underneath colour is showing
If the paint is cracked down to metal or just in really bad condition overall then it better to strip paint but it sound like the rough areas you have could be sanded smooth and rhem primed. If you want to email me photos I could advise you. garagenoise247@gmail.com
Do 2k primers come in cans like the self etching primer you used ?
Yes here is a link to Eastwood's version
amzn.to/3JVSiBE
What gun nozzle size are u using for that primer?
This is just a 1.4 with thicker primers like epoxy or polyester primers you may have to use a larger tip . For 2k I've always had good results with the 1.4
1.4?wow didnt know it will flow like that without thinning it,what kind of primer are u using ?
@@tajungkang3602 I believe this is Roberlo me1 but I also use upol
What grit did you finish out the body filler with before the primer?
320
Is there anything I can use for the primer you used if I don’t have a air gun?
Not sure I'm understanding the question correctly but if you don't have a paint gun you can use a 2k primer from an Aerosol can.
@@GarageNoise I was just making sure that if I didn’t have a paint gun using an aerosol can of primer was not going to mess anything up
Hi!
I've heard or read that you should never put a 2K epoxi primer over a 1k primer. So on metal just go with 2K epoxi primer. Any thoughts?
If you primer a large area I perfer 2k epoxy primer over bare metal. For small areas to cover metal self etching is fine. Yes you want to avoid using any 2k over 1k primer.
Most parts you think are fiberglass are most likely S.M.C. Sheet.Moulded. Compound and you need to use an S.M.C compatible resin. I use All Resin from SMC.
Yes, most newer cars use smc . I perfer to work with that. This truck is older and uses traditional fiberglass. Thanks for watching!
I have a 2008 GMC Sierra with paint peeling off everywhere and I have got plenty of dents on it through out the years. I want to repair the dents and primer it but I'm afraid I will end up regretting doing it my self.
I have plenty of video's on dent repair and painting . There's no shortage of info on the web. I would start by doing one small panel as a test maybe the fender, do that panel from start to finish build you confidence. You can do it!
it is not fair if watch this guy content and not give at least a like
Ok ,so I just tried sanding my car with 80 grit hart sandpaper and it's taking FOREVER!!!! My car has been painted once over the original paint.So could it be because the thickness of the aftermarket Clearcoat? Yours just seems to be going really quick!! I am using a 12V plug it orbital standard sander.could that be the problem?I also don't have an air compressor that big to be sufficient enough for a high powered sander.Any tips? Material or sander you would recommend that is a plug in.I would appreciate any tips or help.Thank you in advance sir!!
I have a question, is your sandpaper gumming up? So after you sand for five minutes with a fresh sheet of paper look at the sandpaper, is there pieces of paint stuck to the paper? My sander is electric but it's pricey like $600. Also what brand of sandpaper are you using?
@@GarageNoise it doesn't really gum up.I use a 20 dollar hyper tough orbital sander from Walmart because I'm a broke parent lol.Also, I am using a soft pad on it so I can hit the edges,but it seems to barely scuff it.I take off more from using a block sander by hand sanding it in 10 minutes compared to 30 minutes with the electrical one.Im also using a Walmart brand sand paper by hartz.I guess, in this case, you get what you pay for judging off your 600 dollar sander lol
Are you taking it down to bare metal? It's possible it could be the sander. More likely the sand paper you might try getting some good 80 grit from 3m . I think it's most likely the sander.
@@GarageNoise not so much to barely metal but down to the original color and as much as possible trying to keep the factory primer.I'll definitely try the 3m sand paper.Thank you very much for the help and suggestions sir!
Can you sand and primer one section of a car at a time? Or will the color be off if you don't complete the whole car?
Absolutely you can do one panel at a time. No problem with that.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos! I have a question, I am painting over old paint, I’m reading online that you should leave the car at 180 and not 320 so the high build can grab better? I have some bondo spots too would you recommend leaving that at 180 and the rest of the car still at 320? Or the entire car with bondo at 180? Thanks
You can primer over the 180 and probably be fine. The reason I don't recommend that is because primer shrinks, even 2k primer . When it shrinks ,it can shrink into the 180 scratches and those can be visible in your finished product. Check the technical data sheet on the primer your using it should have a recommendation. Thanks for watching!
@@GarageNoise you rock I can’t thank you enough for what you do. I’ve watched countless videos and you get right to the point and explain in detail. You are a life saver for beginners like me
Thanks bud, much appreciated!
@@GarageNoise I just applied two coats of Rustoleum auto primer on a small fiberglass panel (license place pocket). It now has a dusty or chalky appearance with the dry primer rubbing off on a tack cloth. What did I do wrong?
@@raymondp.kotiiesq.5934 I don't know that you did anything wrong. It sounds like it's been applied a litte to dry. Let it dry sand it put a few coats on ,put you final coat on wet. Should be fine .
What will be a decent air compressor size to run tools , and paint ??. I don’t have 220 v in my garage , so got to be 110 v unit , maybe from Harbor freight .
Thanks for any input .
I can look into it but the focus when choosing a compressor is the highest cmfs production you can. I'm comfortable with around 15cmf production for an overall paint job. You can paint with less but you may have air fluctuations when you paint wich makes it more difficult. It might be hard to get 15 cfm from 120 but get as high as you can.
how many times would you want to primer a car
Depends on how much blocking you need to do. Two good coats of 2k is a good start.
Is blocking necessary?
Not always, If your preping metal and there's no dents you may not need to block it but if you need to remove rough or faded paint and need to apply primer its a good idea to block the primer just to get the best finished product before applying paint. Thanks for watching and the comment.
What grit did you sand the self echoing primer with , or did you just primer over it ?
Most self etching primers don't get sanded. I prime over it with the 2k.