Matty, the only thing missing from your videos is a hot Sheala bringing you cups of brew. translation from Australian to English "an attractive lady assistant providing nice cups of tea"
After having many trailers in my time and none ever being perfect for firewood collection and so on im now looking at designing somat for myself so its as good as it can be this is inspiring as I want underslung wheels and drop sides and back
WHen I started watching this project I thought it was to make some kind of RV, I kept watching because with you skills I could just imagine how large the space could be....
Looks like a tidy job buddy but you should have used a crew cab for two major reasons 1 you could have easily converted the rear seats to a bunk bed/ storage for long distance track days races ect ect 2 you could possibly use a crew cab to do a bit of breakdown recovery and earn some really good money however it would be better to be able to seat 5 extra passengers Great to see the fast progress through I wish I had your welding skills 👍
Chris Guilfoyle You are correct Sir! You could very easily ground it to the metal of the bed and if the winch was hard mounted directly to the middle of the bed you could even ground it to the winch, As long as it works and you don’t have to bring it to an engineer to get certified just keep it simple
The centre section at the front is ideal to make a storage area for tools and straps etc if you box it in? As for the rear lights I'd recess the plates they sit on to take them back so they're either flush or slightly behind the framework and protected. Great project :)
Great job, looking good. I bond ally decking to my trailers rather than rivet. It saves you from corrosion between the steel and the ally and looks very clean.
Another option to keep original taillights and protect them, is to replace the flat mounting panels you welded in with shallow boxes. This would allow lights to be recessed back behind the face of the rear frame. Similar to what the americans call "Frenching".
For the rear lights I’ve just got some square steel mesh almost like fence material bent to shape and screwed around the lights, They help to save the lights from any bangs
Yeah, or a plate just on the outer corner to protect the indicator and then use the rubber blocks as you mentioned on the inside by the number plate...
Needs plenty good strong tie down points. A decent size to allow hooking to or scraps to pass through. Adjustable wheel chocks also a good thing. Added both to my truck. Ramps need to be able to be stored secure so don't rattle and as difficult as possible to pinch,they always seem to go missing! The tie down rings were available off the shelf and pretty cheap. I fitted ten down each side of the bed. The ramps rattling with every bump in the road will drive you nuts!. I will make new ramps that are not as heavy as I have made already. One very clever modification I have made and get lots of praise for is two folding trestles that fit to the end of my loading ramps. Drive car onto truck and then fit trestles to end of ramps. Now you can drive back onto the ramps from the trailer deck. This gives a very handy work stand to get under car in paddock without having to jack up. Handy for oil changes,adjustments and repairs. Gets car to a hight that is easy to work under in complete safety.
Urchfab great work mate. My ramps fit into a rubber lined slot at front and back is secured to rubber pad by big T handle screw. I tighten the T handles with a bit of tube to snug down tight. I have a locking tube that fits over the T handles and secures with a padlock. You don't want ramps nicked! Friend had his taken at motorway services,did not notice till got to deliver the car. 30k worth of Alvis unloaded on make shift scaffold board ramps! Lesson learned the hard way. Keep these brilliant videos coming,really do appreciate the obvious effort you putting in.
I'd have bit of angle or flat bar over top of light that protrudes a bit, bit of a cage off that wouldn't be bad idea , I broke lenses like that but normally from ramp accident :-) Winch looks good for the £, they should include a front plate in it though, yours looks pretty beefy . You should of done the chassis welding as that going annoy you in time, roller'd it grey and job jobbed .
Hi looking good, as regards the ramps could you make some angle rails for them to slide into across the back?and your box at the front maybe use like a mesh so the water goes through like grating and you dont end up with a pond? somebody's said put a cage around your lights, await part 5,6 and so on maybe thanks mark UK
Great work very inspiring. However, I have a question when you get a job located at an incline where you have to reverse won’t the ramp scrape the ground ?
for the rear tail light section you plan on putting ramps on from my understanding that are going to be removable so just take and run a thing of box tubing over it and under them for the tail lights and then cut grooves in the Box tubing so the ramps can grip on to it and at the same time it'll pan out away from the light so if you do bump into something you're going to bump them Square Tubing instead
If youre parking it outside i would find a better way to secure the winch .... maybe just a tack weld on the head of the bolts ... that’ll go missing quickly otherwise.....only just subscribed but watched all this truck build so far ! Great channel !
Goeden Dag goed bezig met dit project ik kijk er graag naar . voor je fabrieks Ford lichten gewoon de box waar ze nu in zitten dieper maken zo dat de lichtbakken verdiept er in zitten nog wat RVS gaas er overheen kun je het lampenglas niet meer slopen wel met een schanier en een schroef vast maken dat je nog wel je lampjes binnen kan vervangen als er een stuk gaat . groeten uit Terneuzen in Zeeland in the Netherlands
Google Translate ~ Good Day working on this project I look forward to it. for your Ford factory, just light the box where they are now in deeper so that the headlights deep in there are some stainless steel mesh over it you can no longer demolish the glass with a hinge and a screw that you still do replace lights inside when a piece goes. greetings from Terneuzen in Zeeland in the Netherlands
Winch mount looks better than the fixing plate you can buy. I’d try and stick to original back lights just let them in a bit more. I had led’s on mine and went back to originals as got fed up keep replacing the leds every 3months
Some u channel steel above the lights from outside edge of body to slightly wider than alu decks ( to set/locate the ramps into when using them for loading/unloading) then like a sort of triangle piece at each side/under u channel to bottom of lights/number plate frame, lights protected 👍🏼. What about some sort of motocross bike/bikes mount in the unused centre section between ramp hold area and where the box is going to be beside the winch, multi purpose and sick bike carrier? 😉😎 Great build 👍🏼
Im just gonna change the lights, I can get some led ones for 20 quid, didnt realise they were that cheap. yeh I will have some sort of bike mount on there. Cheers
I would use the current rear lights, there is nothing wrong with them. If you buy LED's you will have to either sell these or they will be stored and remain unused. You could form the light holding back panel into a recess and the lights will fit fine.
Superwinch or Warn are far superior, I’ve used nothing but. Look forward to a review in the future on your Rhino winch. You really should run that earth to the battery too, you may come to regret that if you drag a dead motor on the back.
Great build!! I would take the plate off behind the light and space it back until the lense was inset 5 to 10mm from the frame work. Coz your ramps will do the damage not so much your reversing!!
Did you decide not to add the triangulations, you spoke of, the ones that should carry the weight of the outer edge of the bed ? Awesome build, keep up the great work.
Those winches are great but cable is too long and bunch up and jam against the top 2 bars I put one on my 4250kg transit and cursed it every time I used it until I chopped cable down
@@Urchfab I'm not sure about over there, but here we havea bed liner that ya can spray on. It adds texture to the metal. Gives it grip. It would hide that cool pattern tho.
Separate your tail lights and Mount the tail light bezel behind the sheet with the lens on the front side of the sheet, you will need to cut a square out of the sheet for it to work properly.
Love all the videos you do some great work i also just followed you on Instagram... small piece of advice the ground on your winch should go to the battery also just incase your chassis ground starts to corrode the battery ground will still provide a good clean ground think of it as redundant but anyways good job your videos are always cool to watch cheers brother
How much has it cost to build that bed?, ali plate and box not including the winch,,, you can tell me to mind my own business though :-) keep up the good work
This is another TH-cam builder again way over thinking how to mount a freaking winch. Buy the mounting plate which is super strong, per bent by the manufacturer and nearly impossible to bend while in use, and you're done. Another thing people! If you are taking the time to mount a winch, buy a real one! $300 for a NEW winch is not going to last you long, a good winch will work in any environmental conditions, even under water. The bed of this truck is going to tear itself apart. It has no twist point allowing it to flex, without breaking the welds attaching it to the truck. Looks cool while fresh, but plenty of repairs ahead!
#1 He said he forgot to order the plate, making a winch mount is set one for any fabricator, super easy job #2 300 pounds is closer to $600 #3 your bed shouldn't twist just a scam sold by manufacturers selling trucks in America built well under spec for industrial use
Matty, the only thing missing from your videos is a hot Sheala bringing you cups of brew. translation from Australian to English "an attractive lady assistant providing nice cups of tea"
After having many trailers in my time and none ever being perfect for firewood collection and so on im now looking at designing somat for myself so its as good as it can be this is inspiring as I want underslung wheels and drop sides and back
Enjoyed the video & learned some things by reading the comments...lol...the best of both worlds :)
Make sure you weld the bolts on bottom of winch as there easy to steal ive done it on all mine
I will do that. Cheers
Thanks for that!
Best way just makes it harder same as the ramps there all getting stole up this way make lock for them
Great job, fun to watch someone who gets it done!
Brilliant video thank you ❤️👀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
That press break is a beast!! Looks pretty old?? I like it! 🤙🏻🍺
You could make like a shopping basket style case for the lights. Great video really enjoying this build
Cheers, think im just gonna replace them.
@@Urchfab yeah I can imagine that being a lot easier instead of having to custom Fab a hole thing
What thickness aluminium you use.
And did u rivet it on metal.
And how did you make bend at angle of ramp.
Thank u
great channel and no nonsense content
That old folder is nice, wish I had space for something like that.
Looking good Matt. Cheers
WHen I started watching this project I thought it was to make some kind of RV, I kept watching because with you skills I could just imagine how large the space could be....
Nice one pal, you are very good at what you do
That is very interest to built car recover of the Ford Transit that is very good video I like it and you done a good job on that Project
Looks like a tidy job buddy but you should have used a crew cab for two major reasons
1 you could have easily converted the rear seats to a bunk bed/ storage for long distance track days races ect ect
2 you could possibly use a crew cab to do a bit of breakdown recovery and earn some really good money however it would be better to be able to seat 5 extra passengers
Great to see the fast progress through I wish I had your welding skills 👍
Yeh I was looking for a crewcab but ran out of time. Cheers
Fantastic fabrication works, first class job. Wish it was mine!!
10:20 earth it to the factory chassis
16:15 I would wait till you crack them then upgrade them to led
To be fair if the beds welded to the "factory chassis" it's essentially all the one unit as far as an earth goes..
Chris Guilfoyle You are correct Sir! You could very easily ground it to the metal of the bed and if the winch was hard mounted directly to the middle of the bed you could even ground it to the winch, As long as it works and you don’t have to bring it to an engineer to get certified just keep it simple
Turned out great.
Super simple but neat. Great work. Really enjoying your work and videos. And hello from Weymouth!
Love watching your videos
The centre section at the front is ideal to make a storage area for tools and straps etc if you box it in? As for the rear lights I'd recess the plates they sit on to take them back so they're either flush or slightly behind the framework and protected. Great project :)
I was thinking the same, great storage area.
Thats the plan, im just gonna get new lights. Cheers
Another real video, cheers!
Good build and video 👍
Great job, looking good. I bond ally decking to my trailers rather than rivet. It saves you from corrosion between the steel and the ally and looks very clean.
I would like to do that but I dont have enough clamps to clamp it while it sets. Cheers
Another option to keep original taillights and protect them, is to replace the flat mounting panels you welded in with shallow boxes. This would allow lights to be recessed back behind the face of the rear frame. Similar to what the americans call "Frenching".
Quality job well done!!!
Really turning out great. Looks great. Your winch bracket is probably 100 times stronger that’s what they would’ve sent you.
looking good.
Love the series! :D
Great fab work , love the vids
Like a glove!! :)
Subbed for that alone
That old bender looks like a rippa !
For the rear lights I’ve just got some square steel mesh almost like fence material bent to shape and screwed around the lights, They help to save the lights from any bangs
Looking good 👍
Build a cage for the tail lights?
Yeah, or a plate just on the outer corner to protect the indicator and then use the rubber blocks as you mentioned on the inside by the number plate...
Needs plenty good strong tie down points. A decent size to allow hooking to or scraps to pass through. Adjustable wheel chocks also a good thing. Added both to my truck. Ramps need to be able to be stored secure so don't rattle and as difficult as possible to pinch,they always seem to go missing! The tie down rings were available off the shelf and pretty cheap. I fitted ten down each side of the bed. The ramps rattling with every bump in the road will drive you nuts!. I will make new ramps that are not as heavy as I have made already.
One very clever modification I have made and get lots of praise for is two folding trestles that fit to the end of my loading ramps. Drive car onto truck and then fit trestles to end of ramps. Now you can drive back onto the ramps from the trailer deck. This gives a very handy work stand to get under car in paddock without having to jack up. Handy for oil changes,adjustments and repairs. Gets car to a hight that is easy to work under in complete safety.
That's a cracking idea, I've ordered some proper lasing rings. that's one thing I can't stand is rattles.
Urchfab great work mate. My ramps fit into a rubber lined slot at front and back is secured to rubber pad by big T handle screw. I tighten the T handles with a bit of tube to snug down tight. I have a locking tube that fits over the T handles and secures with a padlock. You don't want ramps nicked! Friend had his taken at motorway services,did not notice till got to deliver the car. 30k worth of Alvis unloaded on make shift scaffold board ramps! Lesson learned the hard way. Keep these brilliant videos coming,really do appreciate the obvious effort you putting in.
What mm ally did you use??
Outstanding videos mate. How thick is the aluminium tradeplate you used?
i would make the back part in to a box where you could put all the straps in
I'd have bit of angle or flat bar over top of light that protrudes a bit, bit of a cage off that wouldn't be bad idea , I broke lenses like that but normally from ramp accident :-)
Winch looks good for the £, they should include a front plate in it though, yours looks pretty beefy .
You should of done the chassis welding as that going annoy you in time, roller'd it grey and job jobbed .
Hi looking good, as regards the ramps could you make some angle rails for them to slide into across the back?and your box at the front maybe use like a mesh so the water goes through like grating and you dont end up with a pond? somebody's said put a cage around your lights, await part 5,6 and so on maybe thanks mark UK
Great work very inspiring. However, I have a question when you get a job located at an incline where you have to reverse won’t the ramp scrape the ground ?
for the rear tail light section you plan on putting ramps on from my understanding that are going to be removable so just take and run a thing of box tubing over it and under them for the tail lights and then cut grooves in the Box tubing so the ramps can grip on to it and at the same time it'll pan out away from the light so if you do bump into something you're going to bump them Square Tubing instead
Are you going to do a roll bar behind the cab with bump stops across to stop you running into the cab? Can also mount work lights to it.
Yes I am. Cheers
If youre parking it outside i would find a better way to secure the winch .... maybe just a tack weld on the head of the bolts ... that’ll go missing quickly otherwise.....only just subscribed but watched all this truck build so far ! Great channel !
Use the earth cable suppled and run it straight from winch to battery . Winch will work properly
You should add sleeves to the winch bolts inside the box tubing. Along with offsetting the holes, it'll never collapse
Yeh it would be the proper way to do it but I dont have anything here to sleeve it with. Cheers
Urchfab cheers, a old deep socket will do the trick
Goeden Dag
goed bezig met dit project ik kijk er graag naar .
voor je fabrieks Ford lichten gewoon de box waar ze nu in zitten dieper maken zo dat de lichtbakken verdiept er in zitten nog wat RVS gaas er overheen kun je het lampenglas niet meer slopen wel met een schanier en een schroef vast maken dat je nog wel je lampjes binnen kan vervangen als er een stuk gaat .
groeten uit Terneuzen in Zeeland in the Netherlands
I don't understand. sorry
Ha, that’s exactly what I was thinking .
Google Translate ~
Good Day
working on this project I look forward to it.
for your Ford factory, just light the box where they are now in deeper so that the headlights deep in there are some stainless steel mesh over it you can no longer demolish the glass with a hinge and a screw that you still do replace lights inside when a piece goes.
greetings from Terneuzen in Zeeland in the Netherlands
Winch mount looks better than the fixing plate you can buy. I’d try and stick to original back lights just let them in a bit more. I had led’s on mine and went back to originals as got fed up keep replacing the leds every 3months
Some u channel steel above the lights from outside edge of body to slightly wider than alu decks ( to set/locate the ramps into when using them for loading/unloading) then like a sort of triangle piece at each side/under u channel to bottom of lights/number plate frame, lights protected 👍🏼. What about some sort of motocross bike/bikes mount in the unused centre section between ramp hold area and where the box is going to be beside the winch, multi purpose and sick bike carrier? 😉😎 Great build 👍🏼
Im just gonna change the lights, I can get some led ones for 20 quid, didnt realise they were that cheap. yeh I will have some sort of bike mount on there. Cheers
i would have mounted the winch under the bed , and keep a few snatch blocks so i can winch cars off the truck too
I would use the current rear lights, there is nothing wrong with them. If you buy LED's you will have to either sell these or they will be stored and remain unused.
You could form the light holding back panel into a recess and the lights will fit fine.
Superwinch or Warn are far superior, I’ve used nothing but. Look forward to a review in the future on your Rhino winch.
You really should run that earth to the battery too, you may come to regret that if you drag a dead motor on the back.
Great build!!
I would take the plate off behind the light and space it back until the lense was inset 5 to 10mm from the frame work. Coz your ramps will do the damage not so much your reversing!!
Yea good idea easy fix and cheap
Looking good. Are you gonna put some roof lights on it? Rear facing led pods really help.
Will do.cheers
Looks great! Why not use some wood planks for some of that lower deck by the winch?
Don't forget your marker lights. Also why not recessing your back lights or building a protective cage around them...?
I would liked to have seen more of the marking out and fabrication rather than just zipping through it, but never mind. Excellent vid anyway, Thanks.
Its tricky to know how much to put in. without making the video too long. Cheers
the main killer for the lenses are the ramps..., ask me how i know.
That thing with the rollers on is called a Fairlead
Does the ally have enough support underneath or will there be dips in the ally after use
Hope so.
Great build, well done ☺️
How about some cheap reverse sensors from eBay?
Did you decide not to add the triangulations, you spoke of, the ones that should carry the weight of the outer edge of the bed ? Awesome build, keep up the great work.
No there going in.
Inset the rear lights and weld rebar in front of lights
Those winches are great but cable is too long and bunch up and jam against the top 2 bars I put one on my 4250kg transit and cursed it every time I used it until I chopped cable down
Is it easy to shorten the cable?
@@Urchfab yeah but see how you get on , I'm sure u will curse it
Any chance you have a link to that watertight piece for the wires to pass through the cab with?
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Elkay-ESM2012BLN-Euro-Index-Cable-Gland-M20S-Black/112777573899?epid=21013786682&hash=item1a4211360b:g:tfQAAOSwSPBaa1HE
zeddytd thanks
Me personally would change the cable as had experience with the cable that came with the winch gets stuck because of how long it is
Man that aluminum sheet is pretty cool looking. How does that pattern do in wet weather? Tires probably slide if you drive up it?
Yeh I've heard its slippy but i think once its a bit weathered and the shine has gone it should be fine. I hope!
@@Urchfab I'm not sure about over there, but here we havea bed liner that ya can spray on. It adds texture to the metal. Gives it grip. It would hide that cool pattern tho.
Separate your tail lights and Mount the tail light bezel behind the sheet with the lens on the front side of the sheet, you will need to cut a square out of the sheet for it to work properly.
Im just gonna get some flat led lights. Cheers
Love all the videos you do some great work i also just followed you on Instagram... small piece of advice the ground on your winch should go to the battery also just incase your chassis ground starts to corrode the battery ground will still provide a good clean ground think of it as redundant but anyways good job your videos are always cool to watch cheers brother
I would have welded on the nuts for the fair lead roller bolts
Sweet build! Good inspiration How thick is The Alloy?
3mm Cheers
Gold hands
what about side marker lights and rear outline marker lights?
Ive got the original side markers to go back on.
Brace your winch I have seen them rip a bed apart ps recece the back lights
You could just recess the lights more. Weld some more square tube to the back of the inside of the frame and recess it
What’s the weight of this truck plz
Is the transit a 2000 model year. Im just guessing because of the Y reg number plate
yep
Good job mate ..how much did all the material cost
Il work it out at the end. Cheers
The word you were looking for is "cable gland"
That's the one.
How much has it cost to build that bed?, ali plate and box not including the winch,,, you can tell me to mind my own business though :-) keep up the good work
Il work it all out at the end, Cheers
Estimated cost?
Il work it all out at the end. Cheers
Urchfab looks amazing
you`ll easy wheelie that van away from the lights...
come on a fab shop should know to use crush tubes not silly plates over the box
where is day 5?
Uploading now!
You are gonna wanna earth it right to the battery
This is another TH-cam builder again way over thinking how to mount a freaking winch. Buy the mounting plate which is super strong, per bent by the manufacturer and nearly impossible to bend while in use, and you're done. Another thing people! If you are taking the time to mount a winch, buy a real one! $300 for a NEW winch is not going to last you long, a good winch will work in any environmental conditions, even under water. The bed of this truck is going to tear itself apart. It has no twist point allowing it to flex, without breaking the welds attaching it to the truck. Looks cool while fresh, but plenty of repairs ahead!
#1 He said he forgot to order the plate, making a winch mount is set one for any fabricator, super easy job
#2 300 pounds is closer to $600
#3 your bed shouldn't twist just a scam sold by manufacturers selling trucks in America built well under spec for industrial use
Why would you give him your money to build a truck when it is shit if you want one building I can do a better job because I build them
Looks like something a high school kid would make..
At least recess the fukin lights bud