I'd love to build something like this from a class C (1 ton van chassis) RV. All I need is the time to do it, the RV, a welder, the steel & the skills to weld. I'm almost there! 😜
Who the fuck is thumbing down these video's, what the hell is wrong with some people, this is a bloody good fabrication demonstration. I think most of us would love to be able to get our work to this standard.
You should put a small wedge piece at the front of where the ramps slide into when they are stored. It keeps them under some tension so they don't rattle around and drive you insane!
Id mount those rear facing lights to the back rack like you mentioned. I have 2 6" rectangle led light pods rear facing on my jeep, i use them weekly when i go offroading. Also you should design an area for misc. straps and winch controller and such!
You have a loft in your garage. You could put seating up there. I, for one, would be willing to purchase a ticket to watch you work. I'm afraid though, if you make a bad cut, we will be booing. Your truck looks great. Can hardly wait for the next installment.
6:28 you can use an old set of motorcycle clutch springs and weld them to the the face plate in front of the tops of the ramps. It will take up any slack and stop the rattles
cummins makes a product called restore for flushing the cooling system on class 8 trucks after an oil cooler failure works great use it all the time ..building shit awesome love it!👍👍👍
On the last one I built for some lads was to put a ton weight ( sand ) on a piece of ply just forward of the axle. This gave the loaded ride height so it sat up un loaded but as the weight went on with the car going up the ramps it came down as you would expect. What happens with recovery trucks as you will find is there will be a job come up worth the money and it will be some over weight bit of crap to move and your truck will be on the stops… Nice work by the way
I based it off a mates truck which had a bed height of 600mm at the rear unloaded, mines got heavy duty springs on the back too so im hoping it should be good but we will see on the first load. Cheers
Fantastic build if you take the bed off how about getting the truck weighed to see how heavy and then again after with it on be interesting to see how much it can take
Two things came in my mind, do you get snow? Strap hooks could get frozen stuck. And maybe the ramps too if not covered. And the ramps might be a bit difficult to access with a car on. Don't know if you already had some ideas for that, but I was thinking maybe add a ~1.5m long (long enough to reach the bumper) ~10mm thick bar stock to the end of the ramp. You can use it to pull out and push in the ramp without needing to reach over. When the ramp is out, the bar will fold and clamp to the side of the ramp so it's not in the way. When the ramp is in storing position, the bar can be locked to the rear bumper, preventing the ramp from moving back or forward.
We dont get much snow here no, I measured it up with my car on and it should be fine for getting the ramps out, if I ever put anything long on it it might be a pain but its only for me to take my stuff to events so im not worried. Cheers for the ideas though
Nice job,the only thing I can see that might be a problem is getting the ramps out when there is a car on the truck,it would be better if they are stored right up to the back of the truck so that you can reach them when there is a car on the truck.
Nice truck I’m gonna build mine in a similar way would be nice to know it’s finished weight though? You might want to look at a product called rapture it’s amazing for chassis and frames it’s put on with a Shultz gun and goes rock hard I don’t use anything else now
Why not mount checker plate under the bit at the back you could use that then as a small shortage area (straps winch brother ect) and still have room/access for the ramps
If I may ask, what brand is your upper red welder? It seems to me an Helvi (Italian maker) . Am I wrong? What size of wire are you using for this truck conversion? 0.8 or 1 mm ? By the way, nice solid frame on that truck. Very good work.
Your ramps look stronger (heavier) than they need to be mate :) i dont like that position for ramps, my last hauler had the same, too much of a hussle... you can see how my new one got the ramps solved (ive got a car hauling company, gthaus.de)
Why not cut slots to hook the ramps in place instead of welding those pieces. From my arm chair here I am thinking about the weights of some vehicles like vans and light trucks. I don't think the welded pieces will hold such loads, and over time and rust penetration in seams.
I wouldnt run it with the oil cooler bypassed when it loaded, a good long pull would get the oil temp high i would imagine, would be a shame to damage the motor for the sake of a new cooler, im sure they are prity cheap for them
I think your wrong gaz the oil cooler is for the engine oil not the hydraulic oil (iv never seen one with a hydraulic cooler )that’s why there’s black engine oil in the header tank I’m a commercial mechanic iv done loads it’s common as hell
@@scooter20king I might be then I'm going off a few converted trucks I've had when there were previously a tipper they had an oil cooler underneath for the hydraulics but we're blanked off when converting
This build has really impressed me up until the point were you showed were your storing the ramps, out of all the trucks I've had a transit with ramps under the bed are the worst mate, you can't get to them when there is a car on the bed you end up climbing underneath the van or squashing between the car floor and the bed to access them, a drop down panel with the taillights attached is far more practical they just slide in from the tail lift up the panel and lock job done
exactly what I thought, on previous comments I suggested moving the spare wheel and sliding the ramps in between the rear lights, put the spare opposite the fuel tank, when it is loaded crawling under the car to reach them under the bed is a pain in the a*se, then catching on the underside of the car when trying to pull them out, excellent work done, but not this idea for the ramps, been there done that.
I'd love to build something like this from a class C (1 ton van chassis) RV. All I need is the time to do it, the RV, a welder, the steel & the skills to weld. I'm almost there! 😜
Bryant Ford your already have way there you have the surname
Great fabrication work, looking forward to seeing this project completed.
Your energy is so real, not like the rest of youtubers with an exaggerated attitude.
Do you mean my lack of energy? Cheers
@@Urchfab not at all, it's normal. I follow hoonigan and that shit gets old
Top notch workmanship always great to watch
Your one hell of a grafter all that in 5 days impressive stuff
Who the fuck is thumbing down these video's, what the hell is wrong with some people, this is a bloody good fabrication demonstration. I think most of us would love to be able to get our work to this standard.
Shouldn't worry mate, I don't.
Cheers
wat a great video very interesting watching the truck being built ......
Brilliant video thank u ❤️👀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Great video Matt, looking forward to the next one. Cheers
Excellent series, excellent fabrication!
Gonna be awesome.
as always very impressed with ur fabrication skills , production is good mate , great to hear some music, keep it up
Looking good .. great build series . Top job
This build is amazing, can’t wait to see more
You should put a small wedge piece at the front of where the ramps slide into when they are stored. It keeps them under some tension so they don't rattle around and drive you insane!
Roger that, Cheers
Id mount those rear facing lights to the back rack like you mentioned. I have 2 6" rectangle led light pods rear facing on my jeep, i use them weekly when i go offroading. Also you should design an area for misc. straps and winch controller and such!
Wish I could weld that well, love watching your videos.
You have a loft in your garage. You could put seating up there. I, for one, would be willing to purchase a ticket to watch you work. I'm afraid though, if you make a bad cut, we will be booing. Your truck looks great. Can hardly wait for the next installment.
6:28 you can use an old set of motorcycle clutch springs and weld them to the the face plate in front of the tops of the ramps. It will take up any slack and stop the rattles
Great idea. Cheers
Awesome work man!
Great job
On the back, you could sheet underneath to give more depth but still be able to pull the ramps out.
cummins makes a product called restore for flushing the cooling system on class 8 trucks after an oil cooler failure works great use it all the time ..building shit awesome love it!👍👍👍
love the build i hit the sub button keep up the good work
On the last one I built for some lads was to put a ton weight ( sand ) on a piece of ply just forward of the axle. This gave the loaded ride height so it sat up un loaded but as the weight went on with the car going up the ramps it came down as you would expect. What happens with recovery trucks as you will find is there will be a job come up worth the money and it will be some over weight bit of crap to move and your truck will be on the stops… Nice work by the way
I based it off a mates truck which had a bed height of 600mm at the rear unloaded, mines got heavy duty springs on the back too so im hoping it should be good but we will see on the first load. Cheers
put the jibs from the frame to the edge of the platform, can bend the profile of the platform
Fantastic build if you take the bed off how about getting the truck weighed to see how heavy and then again after with it on be interesting to see how much it can take
it's comen along nicely
Two things came in my mind, do you get snow? Strap hooks could get frozen stuck. And maybe the ramps too if not covered.
And the ramps might be a bit difficult to access with a car on. Don't know if you already had some ideas for that, but I was thinking maybe add a ~1.5m long (long enough to reach the bumper) ~10mm thick bar stock to the end of the ramp. You can use it to pull out and push in the ramp without needing to reach over. When the ramp is out, the bar will fold and clamp to the side of the ramp so it's not in the way. When the ramp is in storing position, the bar can be locked to the rear bumper, preventing the ramp from moving back or forward.
We dont get much snow here no, I measured it up with my car on and it should be fine for getting the ramps out, if I ever put anything long on it it might be a pain but its only for me to take my stuff to events so im not worried. Cheers for the ideas though
The device for sealing cables entering an enclosed space by compressing a rubber sealing ring is called a cable gland :).
looks really nice but hows the weight?
Cheers, im aiming for 2000kg finished. Cheers
Nice job,the only thing I can see that might be a problem is getting the ramps out when there is a car on the truck,it would be better if they are stored right up to the back of the truck so that you can reach them when there is a car on the truck.
I think it should be ok mate. all my cars are small
Nice truck I’m gonna build mine in a similar way would be nice to know it’s finished weight though?
You might want to look at a product called rapture it’s amazing for chassis and frames it’s put on with a Shultz gun and goes rock hard I don’t use anything else now
Cheers, ive heard of that. il look into it.
More awesomeness
Nice build. How About Some wheel stops on The frame?
Hi matt could ypu give me the plans for your ramps ?
what bars did you use for ramps? What is the dimensions and thick please? I want to build my ramps.
Nice build so far.But i would have built the ramps from aluminum as they are lighter and easier to move.
There pretty light, that box is 1.5mm wall. Cheers
than will bend verry sun ...
I have seen aluminum ramps just a month ago.If built right they will last longer than the truck.
what weight has it ended up at,,nice fabrication but seems a bit over the top in places,,
Liking the build, are you having any orange side marker lights too??
Yep
Why not mount checker plate under the bit at the back you could use that then as a small shortage area (straps winch brother ect) and still have room/access for the ramps
Im making a bin up front for that. Cheers
How about a light bar in lieu of the spotlights for the rear of the cab?
Ive bought some spots now mate
If I may ask, what brand is your upper red welder? It seems to me an Helvi (Italian maker) . Am I wrong?
What size of wire are you using for this truck conversion? 0.8 or 1 mm ?
By the way, nice solid frame on that truck. Very good work.
Are you not worried about the weight?
DID YOU NO THE RECOVERY TRUCK IN THE UK HAVE TO AVE A BEACON OR LIGHT BAR
Im not gonna be doing recovery with it, its just to take my cars to events. Cheers
Your ramps look stronger (heavier) than they need to be mate :) i dont like that position for ramps, my last hauler had the same, too much of a hussle... you can see how my new one got the ramps solved (ive got a car hauling company, gthaus.de)
Why not cut slots to hook the ramps in place instead of welding those pieces. From my arm chair here I am thinking about the weights of some vehicles like vans and light trucks. I don't think the welded pieces will hold such loads, and over time and rust penetration in seams.
The angle on the back is thicker than the box section wall so its gonna be stronger.
How much weight is that chassis rated to carry?
3500kg gross
I wouldnt run it with the oil cooler bypassed when it loaded, a good long pull would get the oil temp high i would imagine, would be a shame to damage the motor for the sake of a new cooler, im sure they are prity cheap for them
The oilcloth cooler is for the hydraulic oil to the old tipper not the engine oil
@@gazukroberts4690 oh right sorry! i thought you meant engine oil cooler,
I think your wrong gaz the oil cooler is for the engine oil not the hydraulic oil (iv never seen one with a hydraulic cooler )that’s why there’s black engine oil in the header tank I’m a commercial mechanic iv done loads it’s common as hell
@@scooter20king I might be then I'm going off a few converted trucks I've had when there were previously a tipper they had an oil cooler underneath for the hydraulics but we're blanked off when converting
Im on it, Cheers
This build has really impressed me up until the point were you showed were your storing the ramps, out of all the trucks I've had a transit with ramps under the bed are the worst mate, you can't get to them when there is a car on the bed you end up climbing underneath the van or squashing between the car floor and the bed to access them, a drop down panel with the taillights attached is far more practical they just slide in from the tail lift up the panel and lock job done
exactly what I thought, on previous comments I suggested moving the spare wheel and sliding the ramps in between the rear lights, put the spare opposite the fuel tank, when it is loaded crawling under the car to reach them under the bed is a pain in the a*se, then catching on the underside of the car when trying to pull them out, excellent work done, but not this idea for the ramps, been there done that.
Have you ever made a pickup from a car? ;)
Ive made a pick up from a horse box
@@Urchfab would you like to take on another project ;) lol