Two things I've learned while doing my atf change on my 2011. First the tube sizes were wrong. You need a 1/2" ID for the fill and a 3/8" ID for my cooler. Idk why but thats what worked for me. Second is that he did not specify if the temp valve should remain open when checking the level which it should. That is all. Great video. 👍
By far the best video on this on TH-cam. Great work. My first time doing it I was under the truck with a cheap hand pump, taking an ATF bath trying to get fluid in the fill hole. Never again.
First of all...great video. Gave me the confidence to give it a go and confident that it is being done right. I'm just gonna post my step by step process which comes straight from this video and all of the great comments on this post. If this is your first attempt, watch the video a couple of times and read the comments, the post and replies and you will understand the process. It was almost like a light bulb when off and had that ahah moment after watching and reading a few times. I am confident I can do this, even before I ever got started. So here is my step by step and my contribution to the TH-camrs and DIYers. Apply the parking brake Transmission cooler thermostat lock with wire or paper clip WS marks fill port Loosen the 3 transmission plugs first Remove Drain plug and drain the fluid Measure the amount of oil drained Replace the drain plug Refill with the same amount into transmission fill port Disconnect the transmissionoil cooler outlet hose Attach an extra drain hose from the transmission cooler into a drain pan (*This video says the top hose, mine was the bottom hose on a 2007 Tundra Gen 2) Turn the engine on The fluid from the cooler will start to drain Measure the amount of fluid drained While the engine is running, have the driver shift through all of the gears to open all of the ports (I heard the gears start to stick so I would only shift through the gears once) Turn off the truck Add transmission fluid into transmission. The same amount that came out of the cooler and the same place where you poured it in earlier into the transmission. Repeat process until clean oil comes out. (Start truck for 40 seconds, don't shift though gears a second time.) After clean oil comes out of the oil cooler, you are done draining oil from the transmission cooler so reattach the transmission cooler hose. Remove the overflow check plug and add fluid until oil drips out. Replace the check plug. Start transmission temperature process. MEASURING OIL TEMPERATURE Use a jumper such as a paper clip to jump the #4 & #13 ports together on OBDII port. The place where you attach a code scanner. Start the engine Shift though all the gears to circulate fluid. Move about one gear per second. Move shifter to drive...then move the shifter back and forth from neutral “N” to drive “D” for at least 6 seconds to engage temperature detection mode The drive “D” light will stay on even though you are moving the shifter. If it doesn’t work, move back to park “P”. Shut engine off and start over and double check the paper clip jumper. Once the vehicle is in “temperature check mode” the drive light “D” will be: OFF= TOO COLD BLINKING=TOO HOT ON=JUST RIGHT When in the right temperature range, with the engine idling, remove the check port plug and add transmission fluid until a Good STREAM is flowing out then reinstall the check plug. Shut the engine off Torque all the bolts and clean up! Thank you for the video and all of the post. I was able to save some money and do the job right. Can't say thanks enough!
Do you know where i can find the directions for my truck i have a 2007 4.7 Tundra or do you think they are exactly the same as you just wrote out? Thank you
Great video. This really made it easy, especially with the Temperature procedure - I will add that the Torque specs are 15 lbs-ft for the hex/check bolt, ~24 lb-ft for the drain, 29 lb-ft for the fill. The cooler return line on the 2011 Tundra looks a bit different in that it's covered up on the inside of the grill. You have to disconnect on the outside of the radiator/cooler - but it is still the top hose, just follow it though to the outside and disconnect there. 3/8" ID tubing fit just fine.
Great video. Very clear and straightforward. Couple additional steps that I would've done was to repeat the process where you start the engine to drain out old fluid. Do that in 1 to 2 quart intervals to flush out all the fluid. When the fluid starts looking new coming out of your clear tube then proceed with your check level process. Again nice video.
I have a 2013 Tundra SR5 / TRD with 6 speed automatic, 5.7 liter engine. On this model, the transmission cooler and AC condenser are all one piece. The top 25% or the coil is the transmission cooler and the rest is the AC condenser. In this case, you will have to disconnect the rubber hose on the grill side of the radiator instead of the engine side of the radiator. Additionally, I highly highly highly (oh did I mention highly?) recommend purchasing a transmission filter kit, drop the tranny pan, clean it out and clean the magnets in the bottom of the pan. There will be a lot off very fine shavings in the bottom of the pan (from normal wear) and on the magnets. Remove the old filter, install the new one and then reinstall the pan with the new gasket. Of course, this would be done after the first drain you do.
Napa auto parts sells an awesome gasket that is 100 times better than any others I have seen. They run about $65 for a filter and gasket but super high quality.
Great video and straight to the point. This is not a new procedure and is the 'poor man flush' can be used on any vehicle. This however outlines great detail on how to do it on a Tundra, well done. I agree with you on Toyota's change interval being way too long. Mine had 122K miles and this must have been the first change, my fluid was BLACK. Truck was searching for gears so I knew something was up. (i'm 2nd owner but truck had all other maint done according to carfax, trans was only thing I didn't see). I used my scangauge II to measure trans temp which made it a little easier to do the top off. Then for final top off I just overfilled a little bit and then started truck, opened the check and drained until it trickled. I was doing this myself so it made it easier then starting/opening check/pouring/looking. Thanks for posting.
did it run better afterwards? i know its been 5 years since you posted lol... I have a similar milage 2013 and ordered everything to do this. I dont think its ever been changed either,.
Awesome video! Thank you so much. I just did my 07 Tundra and the jumper points worked perfectly. I over did the flush and ended up using 3 3/4 gallons but the fluid was squeaky clean coming out. All in all it's easier than changing the fluid on a turbo hydramatic 350 and all the fluid gets removed. I saved a bunch of money and I know it was done properly!
Will that transmission let you go through the gears? I know it shows it in sport mode but that doesn't mean anything. Kinda like the auto lsd in these tundras.
Awesome instructions! Where I'm lost is, you said only fill it to the same amount you drained. BUT, lets say I drain two quarts. And then I fill to the amount I drained, while at the same time its draining MORE old fluid. Do I now pay attention to whatever additional fluid came out, and also add that additional amount? Not trying to cause problems, just making sure I understand each and every step precisely as you instructed. Thanks for the instruction, and awesome video! You have way more patience than I lol.
Best video on TH-cam! Question, to piggyback on previous question. When your filling fluid during flush do you continuously pour while someone going thru gears with truck on or do you pour in stages?
I did it in stages using the volume of the oil sump to pump through the system. I didn't feel confident enough about accidentally overfilling or underfilling so it seemed a little safer. But I'm sure it's doable in one big transfer like that if you're careful.
With 60K on my 2008 Tundra it's time. The local dealer wants $280 to do the flush. almost worth it to me to avoid the mess. however having been a Mercedes master guild tech for 20+ years, I am well aware that just because you went to the dealer does not mean you will get a true tech and not a parts changer. In all actuality 7 out of 10 tech were hacks that sell parts instead of fixing cars. Than I read your experience at the end of your video and it is settled, I will be doing this my self for about $55 in oil. thanks for your helpful video.
Nice video. Have not DONT the flush year but would like too. You REALLY need to have the TSB in hand when your do this if you don’t have a tech stream TIS at home. Normally I will run the steps to check my fluid level and top off with a hand pump. As stated in the TSB, the engine should be running IOT have the correct fluid level check and to be accurate.
Just did trans fluid on my Tundra. 60 k miles. My friend who is certified master mechanic did the whole thing. Did not do the complete flush.Just dropped the pan and changed filter and gasket. There was no need for complete flush. (We were going for it but after inspecting the oil and pan and filter we did not want to jinx it)Oil was really good. Off red but still redish. He did not believe it. Pan was clear and magnets clean and I mean clean. You will never have red oil in it like the one you put in. It will turn like in the bottle in video w in a day. Drained 6.5 qt. WS ATF is the way to go. Will do this every 30k.
Thanks for the video. I used it to do it myself. Two points that I would like to emphasize: 1) You are repeating the drain/fill process until fluid runs clean from the transmission cooler ( that wasn't clear to me at first). 2) To do the fluid check process and get the fluid at the correct temperature, you need to start from cold. Let the truck sit over night or for several hours. Again, Thanks
Bravo maestro! not only educational, but it is also an inspiring video! i put Redline D6 and my truck runs much smoother now. when i drained the tranny pan in the beginning, about 4.1/4 quarts of ATF came out. i started on cold with removing the level plug first. then, using the method described in this video, i drained 5 more times: 4x2qt and 1x1qt as i had only 15 qts of new ATF. not sure if i've done the last procedure properly though, as i ended up having more old fluid than i put in, like 1/2 qt more. nevertheless, truck runs great: no slipping, overheating, jolting or delays in shifting. anyways, i'll do level re-check when i get more fluid.
Yes, you do. I totally forgot about that. Taking out the thermostat pin returns the whole system back to "normal" and that's how the level should be checked.
@@exploresouthwest The Toyota pdf I have for my 07 tundra states that removing the pin is the very last step of the procedure... Just trying to make sure I do this correctly. Thanks for the video.
@@btmorris82 Yes when you're all done make sure to pull it out. I actually left mine in a day on accident and couldn't figure out why it took 20 mins for the transmission fluid to reach mid range. It doesn't ruin your transmission if you leave it in. But it's far more efficient if you take it out.
I noticed your temperature dial was hotter with the drive staying on. On my truck the drive comes on after it warms up a couple dials on the gage. Am I not waiting long enough to check the check plug?
Were your jumper pins the same as in the vid? His is a 2009 and mine is a 2013. I am asking you because your year model is a lot closer to mine than his 2009. Thanks.
I believe there is a screen inside but you'd have to pull all the bolts holding the pan on and I don't know if the screen/filter is accessible without dismantling anything else. This was meant to be a much simpler flush of just the fluids where the only components removed are basically the drain and fill plugs. I REALLY disagree with Toyota's sealed and never change maintenance plan. I don't care what their scientists have done I don't believe the AT fluid maintains itself for over 150k miles. And considering we're 3 years down the line and it's still running like a champ after the dealer told me it would be a $4000 replacement to swap a new Transmission I think the fluid change has proved it helped.
Trans Oil Cooler outlet hose? 2011 5.7 L Tundra w tow package. Is the outlet hose always the top hose on the cooler? I want to make sure I flush the correct hose. My Trans oil cooler is much wider than the one shown here and the fittings are on the outside of the engine bay in front.
Have a 2010 4.6L 4x4 model with tow pkg. and has almost 80 k miles. Will probably do this procedure soon. Without researching this, is there another trans fluid that is recommended over the Toyota WS fluid? Thanks.
In the forums using alternative fluid was probably the most debated topic. I went with the general consensus and used "Valvoline MaxLife DEXRON/MERCON ATF" amzn.to/2gfSE7S It can be found at most Auto Stores, and on the back of the bottle it says it's a compatible replacement for "Toyota WS". As one person online pointed out, that either means that they tested it and verified it's a good replacement, or they're willing to have the pants sued off them if they're lying and it blows your transmission up. Either way you're covered. Plus I give companies the benefit of the doubt that a big company like Penzoil isn't going to lie on the actual bottle just to get few sale if the risk was that big.
Thanks for the video. I have a couple of questions for you: 1-Why do you use the overflow port if you can check the level at the correct temperature. 2-Should I check the cold mark first. 3-What is the temperature ranger for the oil? (160-175F)? at what temperature exactly you measure it? 4-Can you use torque pro to get and scanner the correct temperature? 5-Do you know if the paper clip trick works for all Toyotas? what about Camry 2007 LE 4 cyl and Highlander 2011 AWD 6-cyl? Thank you
1-The overflow port is the level check. These new sealed Transmissions don't have dipsticks. 2- See #1 3- If you mean when you're supposed to test the level? 99-111F which is pretty cold for AT Fluid. This number is different than what I read others doing online so it may vary by model year? That's why you go through the process at 5:00. The transmission light will come on when the temp is right, and blink when it's too high. 4- Yes probably. Be aware of any possible inaccuracy of the temp sensor display. Like I said in #3, if you have the AT light come on the Toyota will tell you when the temperature is just right. 5- Yes, OBD2 ports are standard now but I'm not 100% sure the pin outs are always the same on vehicles. I used a paperclip to jumper the port on my old Toyota made Scion too. The official tool to manually jump the pins is a prettier purpose built wire for the job but it's the same idea, just a wire between 2 pins. The computerized scanners Toyota uses is doing the same thing as well connecting the voltage of the 2 pins.
I just recently bought a 20111 Tundra. This is the first vehicle I've ever owned that has no transmission dipstick. I find it both incredibly stupid design decision, and it stresses me out to not be able to check the fluid level and quality in my own transmission. Seems like nothing more than a money grab by making vehicles continually harder to service so you have to take to the dealer or a shop. 🙈🤦♂
I think Vavoline Max Life is fine to use. It even has WS (World Standard) on the back of the bottle under there recommendation. I haven’t heard anything bad from it either so why not use it?
Thanks so much, I appreciate the video. My cooler lines were a little different and accessible from in front of the transmission cooler. Other than that, it all worked out well. Thanks again!
Southwest, good video. However when I hook up my clear tubing to the outlet port on the cooler, fluid isn't coming out of the port. Fluid is coming out of the black hose with the pink marking that I removed. Thought? Where did I goofed? I have 2007 tundra 4.7 sr5.
If you have the tow package (with ATF cooler), the bypass valve must be manually opened first before beginning the procedure. Otherwise the fluid will back flow into the black tube as it bypasses the ATF cooler and goes through the ATF warmer, as you described in your problem. Under normal operation, the bypass valve will open on its own once the fluid reaches normal operating temperature. So, unless you open the valve manually the fluid will not flow through ATF cooler until it warms-up - which is not practical when changing the fluid. Manually opening the bypass valve essentially makes the fluid flow as if it was already warmed up. At that point it will come out the ATF cooler tube as described in the video.
I'm in the middle of doing this. I have an 08 tundra 4x4. I used the top cooler line like you said. I put a clear hose there and when I started the truck atf was coming out through the black hose that was there before.
After the initial fluid dump from the pan you say, now you can seal the drain port back up we won't be taking this off again. so does this mean the remainder of old fluid will be coming out of the outlet #1 oil cooler hose as it is being replaced with new fluid until new fluid begins to flow out of the oil cooler? Please confirm. Thanks! -eric
Yes. That's the whole basic idea. The pan is drained and replaced with good fluid, then you try to keep that filled with new fluid while you run the engine and suck it through the system. The old fluid is poured off before it can return to the pan. Theoretically it should replace most of the old fluid with new, but the complexities of the Transmission is you're only replacing a percentage of the fluid. However it's a much higher percentage than if you just drained and refilled the pan alone.
Thank you for this video. Question: In your video you said to only run the engine while going through the gears until you get the same amount in the pan that was initially drained. Then you say, "once you have clean oil coming out", so do we continue the process of adding fluid and going through the gears?
Yeah. The Transmission has different chambers and fluid pathways that the fluid passes through in different gears. Shifting through the gears just helps get new fluid everywhere. It wouldn't be disastrous to NOT shift through the gears, you'd just have a little more old oil diluted into your new oil when you're done because some that was in there never got flushed out until you shifted through all gears driving after the oil change. I also considered not doing "batches" of the oil change and to try doing it all at once. The only concern is that the AT oil sump seems to get sucked dry faster than I could pour the new oil in and I didn't want it running dry and sucking up air bubbles into the transmission. But again, I don't think it would be terribly bad if you did suck air in by accident. I think the system is self purging so if you get a few air bubbles in there, they will work through and come out a few seconds later in the pan. That's why you do the oil level check at the end, just to make sure it's all good after all bubbles have been flushed through and there is new oil in all the chambers and channels.
I like the way you did it in the video. Drain the entire pan, refill with that amount, and repeat draining that same amount out of the cooler line. It makes perfect sense b/c if the vehicle is hot, you should be adding a hair more cold fluid. When you warm it back up to do the check plug drain, you get to drain off the excess.
Great Video! My Question: Im old, so I havent crawled under to find the valve location, where is the location of the this valve ? Driver side ? Front/ rear of tranny? Thank you! By the way Im looking at a 2008 Tundra 4WD BASE MODEL !
Great Info! Funny to read: " No Thanks" to your local "STEALERSHIP who quoted you $5,000 for transmission Replacement. What a shame! I was living in Columbia SC, for 3 years and 6 months, I religiously went to Jim Hudson GMC, Buick dealership for my wife 2013 GMC Terrain. I pay for synthetic oil that they never put in my engine and they did not change my oil filters all this time. I now live in Bandywine, Maryland, I noticed that I am a professional mechanic than those so called mechanics (vultures) in this area, and even tough I never worked in a shop nor I went to a mechanic trade school (thanks to numerous TH-camrs) like you, Chris Fix, Scotty Kilmer, Eric the-car-Guy, and many others. I have a 2016 Toyota Tundra Crewmax 4 X 4 TRD Off Road. I'll do the maintenance myself in order to protect my investment and to make sure the required service is done correctly. Thanks for everything!
Yes it is Valvoline max life synthetic. From what I read online you need just shy of 3 gallons for the swap. So I bought 3 and a quart to be safe. But the fluid started running clean after just over 2 gallons, so I ended up using 2.5 gallons for the swap. But when doing the leveling check procedure I ended up pouring most of the last half gallon in. I was a little wasteful during the leveling check but was glad to have the extra fluid instead of coming up short.
It was lukewarm, the truck had been sitting about an hour; but definitely not cold This was kind of a problem when I had to do the procedure to get the fluid level correct. Just running the engine to pump the old fluid out heated the fluid up past the measuring point. I went inside the house, ate dinner, came back outside 2 hours later to try again and the fluid temp was just about right. I know that different model years seem to use different fluid temps for the level-check procedure and the 2009 seems to like the temp to be pretty cool.
Explore Southwest what is the proper temperature is it better to do when first thing in the morning or should I run the vehicle and let it rest for a few hours and let the temperature be like a hundred hundred fifty degrees what do you think
I prefer to do it at a higher temperature, the fluid flows much better when it's warm. The problem only came when I had to do the fluid level check, the instructions for my model year involved the fluid being lower than that. So I took a break in the house to let everything cool before wrapping up the whole thing.
I did. Although in retrospect I don't know if you need to or if it makes a difference. There shouldn't be any air in the AT coolant loop, so open or closed it wouldn't really affect the overall amount in the pan. If it's closed the fluid is held inside, but if it's empty there is no air hole in the top to allow the fluid to drain (plus the engine is running so everything is in constant circulation). The procedure for changing the oil and the procedure for checking the fluid level are 2 completely different processes in the Technical manual; and the fluid check process doesn't mention holding the thermostat open. For that reason I don't I would leave the paperclip in. But from the way it's designed I also don't think it would make a big change to the level if you left it in.
I dropped a plastic nipple into the fill port of an A760f- the 6-speed in the GX460. I dropped the pan and valve body and don’t have access. Will this stay put, will it get ground and and be caught in filter, or will it destroy the AT?
@@dalephillips8250 thanks dale. That was the general but not unanimous consensus as I frantically questioned message boards and a dozen or so mechanics I associate with. However I opted to use a flexible borescope camera to find it and attempt extraction. It sat in a cavity where the fluid pours and drains into the gears. The nipple was large enough to fall through the 2” chamber opening into the gears. So it would have eventually gotten chewed up. I believe in turn this would have made it to the valve assemble and caused damage. After about 16 hours of effort, I finally fished it out. I have some video on my page of the effort although I wasn’t capturing when I finally got a good hold on it- obviously I wasn’t going to spoil that moment for some internet points!
@@MrTigerHank thanks for info. I Said that because all ford crown vic,grand marquis and Lincoln Town cars will have a yellow plug floating in the pan the first time you drop the pan to Chang fluid/filter as was in mine. I was told this is because the trans dip stick tube is plugged from factory and they just punch it down in to the transmission at first fill and don't worry about it. But it is rather large and can't make it into any thing important
Although I'm not currently at a Toyota dealer, I graduated with a T-TEN diploma and I can tell you that if you think WS ATF is watered down Dexron you shouldn't be changing your ATF at home. Toyota has a reason for EVERYTHING which is why I own one. I highly recommend you amend your video to ONLY condone WS ATF. There is no other accepted substitute in the industry.
Toyota wants to make money just like everyone else. They put out a TSB on how to properly drain and fill the transmission and this guy followed every single step.
Of course they wouldn't, because your average Joe wouldn't know what the hell is going on. I'm a certified GM mechanic that happens to love Tundras and this method works very well. It drains/pumps out the old fluid in the torque converter and draws in new fluid which is better than just draining the pan. I took it one step further and replaced the pan filter on the valve body. Toyota doesn't make bad fluids but they also don't make the best as you seem to imply in your first comment.
I don't always use OEM parts, but you'd be a fool use a one-size-fits-all ATF. Motor oil...sure use anything. With ATF you better stick with OEM with specific friction modifiers. Toyota's ATF is very high quality, just do some research before you say that because Drohawk is correct about this.
From all the forums there are plenty of folks switching from ATF WS to the the Valvoline Max Life synthetic with no problems after thousands of miles of use. Some say the tranny works better than before.
Would adding a Out Bucket and In Bucket with 9qts in one (input) could you just cycle in and out equal amounts + .5L and call it even ? verifying light drip out of fill hole?
Once you pull the line off the cooler the there is no longer any pressure in the return portion of the system, so no suction to pull in the clean fluid.
The test worked on my 2011 tundra but I don't believe it to be accurate temperature. It showed D on immediately and I test temp with infrared thermoter it only showed 92
BIG PROBLEM - In this video you only changed about 4 quarts of fluid total. And the problem is that the transmission holds about 11 quarts of fluid. So you still have 7 quarts yet to change. Also, NOTHING mentioned about which transmission this is... there are 4 DIFFERENT transmissions for those years: 5 speed a750e (2wd) and a 6 speed a750f (4wd) and then 6 speed in those years has different numbers as well... so what is this for?
I have the 07 v6 4 speed automatic tundra and its been slipping for awhile now but tonight past 40 mph it would not shift over then when I turned off my truck and then back on the transmission light, VSC light, and the traction control light were all on. Is this because I need to do a transmission flush? 123k miles
slipping? delays or wouldn't shift? sounds like you are running low on atf. replacing it and adjusting the level most likely would address that. but won't address a leak if you got one.
It's really your own prerogative. Toyota considers they system sealed and never needing maintenance which sounds like BS to direct traffic to their dealerships for repairs to me. I prefer to stick to a schedule similar to other foreign vehicles, maybe slightly longer giving Toyota some benefit of the doubt. 45k-60k miles. Maybe a bit shorter if the first time you change the fluid and it seems especially bad, darker colored than normal or a "burnt" smell.
Yeah definitely! The transmission is still running like a champ. The occasional gear slippage I experienced before the fluid change never came back. I keep an eye on my dashboard gauges while driving in more stressful situations and have never seen the AT Oil temp sensor go above the middle of the gauge. There have been a few times I've been a bit rougher on the transmission than I should have been. Sometimes while coasting down a hill I'll drop to a lower gear to help engine braking and it's never given any alarming thuds or violent shifts. The transmissions downshifts quickly. I've also mashed the pedal down a few times merging into traffic which a few times before caused the transmission to slip because of the sudden load. That has never happened since the fluid change, now I have the opposite problem where I've chirped the tires or spun out a bit because the power of the engine and the solid drive-line caused the wheels to break traction with the road ans spin.
nice video. i have a 2017 tundra sr5 4x4 with trans cooler. but my trans lines going to the cooler are not in the same place as yours in your video. i dont want to screw this up. my truck only has 16k miles on it. ive done 2 engine oil changes myself and stupid me, i changed oil today in preparation for a long trip and i drained the trans instead of the engine oil. so nice clean red oil came out but it was too late! the trans pan emptied. so I really dont see a need for the full flush and all that at this point, i just want to add the fluid back and call it good. but i would like to know about the trans lines on my truck so i can do it for real in another 15k or so. thanks
DEANES ON THE MOVE if you drained the transmission fluid thinking it was the motor oil pan, perhaps you shouldn’t be working on your truck. If I were you I would just stick to maintaining the blinker fluid levels on your truck.
It's not a requirement (though technically according to Toyota neither is the fluid change). I thought long and hard about doing it myself. The amount of work needed to swap the filter is much more than just a fluid change and requires buying new filters and gaskets. I decided not to replace the filter because it's really just a mesh screen and not a paper/cloth-like filter. EVERY person I talked to online that did the full filter replacement said that there was no blockage and there had been no need for it and wouldn't recommend it. So my train of thought is to focus on doing fluid changes a bit more often to keep the fluid clean. A Transmission fluid change isn't a 100% change, there is always some dirty fluid contained in the chambers so it's more like a 75% change each time you do it.
@@exploresouthwest Thanks for this informative video. I removed the pan and changed the filter and the gasket. If you do go this route, you would need to order the rubber O-Ring on the transmission filter, as the OEM version from toyota does not come with one. Other videos on TH-cam does not mention this. I understand that some aftermarket ones comes with this O-ring. Another note is that there is about a quart of fluid in the filter and residual ATF in the pan that does not come out when you remove the drain plug.
Now days. You have to take valve body out, remove everything from it, spray it it all, huge amounts of metal dust gums them up and ruins the trans. Causes solenoid failures ect
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Roughly, yes. But it's certainly fine to have extra in a jug at home if you need to top it off later, or if you change the fluid again in 30k-60k whatever. The problem is that it's not a 100% transfer like draining and refilling the engine oil. The transmission has all kinds of nooks and crannies and multiple pathways for fluid to pass through depending on what gear the transmission is is. So the more fluid you move through it the more of the old oil you clean out. By time 6 quarts has gone through you've probably flushed out 90% or more.
Explore Southwest hello love your video man is it necessary to change the filter out if you're going to do a flush I am going to do a flush but I'm just going to use to gallons would it be okay to mix with the old oil SW transmission fluid oil and also I am going to have somebody helping me when the oils actually coming out in the pan from the hos I am going to be pouring it in there at the same time so it does not get low and run dry is that a good idea keep the same level at all times you know what I mean
On mine it was on the passenger side of the transmission. In that clip I looking up into the underbody with the front of the Truck is down to the right. But you'll only have that module if your truck has the tow package with the automatic transmission oil cooler. Otherwise it's not even there.
$400. ?? Last time I had mine done it was $180.00. I do change all other fluids in my Tundra except the tranny. I wouldn’t recommend doing this on your own.
sounds like a "pan drop". Meaning about 25% of the fluid is changed out. Toyota quoted me $200 just for this. You get about 4-5 quarts of new fluid...so sort of a refresh.
forcedair 92gt yea it's outrageous. they pretty much refused to do a full flush for me even though I made an appointment and was ready to pay for it. They acted all unprepared and even though I told them what I wanted and made an appointment. When they said it was going to be $300 for a pan drop I said forget it I can do that in the driveway for the price of fluid...Just DIYourself. I did and it was easy. Drain what you can out of the pan, then carefully measure what you drained out and replace the same amount. Use WS fluid, it's probably best not to mix. I did this and it was fine..it shifted better afterwards.There's no need to do the stupid temperature check. They aren't as sensitive as people say.
, interesting the dealer charge me $225 to do what this gentleman just requested also he had no mention the transmission fluid that has to reach a certain temperature before you can drain it literally run the vehicle sounds like a lot of trouble not sure if this guy is a garage mechanic or a pro be careful who you listen to anyway good for him 2:20 I'll take it to the dealer every fucking time and by the way the transmission fluid in the Toyota is Lifetime never supposed to be changed I don't know you do the research
Two things I've learned while doing my atf change on my 2011. First the tube sizes were wrong. You need a 1/2" ID for the fill and a 3/8" ID for my cooler. Idk why but thats what worked for me. Second is that he did not specify if the temp valve should remain open when checking the level which it should. That is all. Great video. 👍
By far the best video on this on TH-cam. Great work. My first time doing it I was under the truck with a cheap hand pump, taking an ATF bath trying to get fluid in the fill hole. Never again.
First of all...great video. Gave me the confidence to give it a go and confident that it is being done right. I'm just gonna post my step by step process which comes straight from this video and all of the great comments on this post. If this is your first attempt, watch the video a couple of times and read the comments, the post and replies and you will understand the process. It was almost like a light bulb when off and had that ahah moment after watching and reading a few times. I am confident I can do this, even before I ever got started. So here is my step by step and my contribution to the TH-camrs and DIYers.
Apply the parking brake
Transmission cooler thermostat lock with wire or paper clip
WS marks fill port
Loosen the 3 transmission plugs first
Remove Drain plug and drain the fluid
Measure the amount of oil drained
Replace the drain plug
Refill with the same amount into transmission fill port
Disconnect the transmissionoil cooler outlet hose
Attach an extra drain hose from the transmission cooler into a drain pan
(*This video says the top hose, mine was the bottom hose on a 2007 Tundra Gen 2)
Turn the engine on
The fluid from the cooler will start to drain
Measure the amount of fluid drained
While the engine is running, have the driver shift through all of the gears to open all of the ports
(I heard the gears start to stick so I would only shift through the gears once)
Turn off the truck
Add transmission fluid into transmission. The same amount that came out of the cooler and the same place where you poured it in earlier into the transmission.
Repeat process until clean oil comes out. (Start truck for 40 seconds, don't shift though gears a second time.)
After clean oil comes out of the oil cooler, you are done draining oil from the transmission cooler so reattach the transmission cooler hose.
Remove the overflow check plug and add fluid until oil drips out.
Replace the check plug.
Start transmission temperature process.
MEASURING OIL TEMPERATURE
Use a jumper such as a paper clip to jump the #4 & #13 ports together on OBDII port. The place where you attach a code scanner.
Start the engine
Shift though all the gears to circulate fluid. Move about one gear per second.
Move shifter to drive...then move the shifter back and forth from neutral “N” to drive “D” for at least 6 seconds to engage temperature detection mode
The drive “D” light will stay on even though you are moving the shifter.
If it doesn’t work, move back to park “P”. Shut engine off and start over and double check the paper clip jumper.
Once the vehicle is in “temperature check mode” the drive light “D” will be:
OFF= TOO COLD
BLINKING=TOO HOT
ON=JUST RIGHT
When in the right temperature range, with the engine idling, remove the check port plug and add transmission fluid until a Good STREAM is flowing out then reinstall the check plug.
Shut the engine off
Torque all the bolts and clean up!
Thank you for the video and all of the post. I was able to save some money and do the job right. Can't say thanks enough!
Does your 2007 Tundra have the A750E? I am getting ready to do this and want to make sure I have the right hose
Do you know where i can find the directions for my truck i have a 2007 4.7 Tundra or do you think they are exactly the same as you just wrote out? Thank you
Great video. This really made it easy, especially with the Temperature procedure - I will add that the Torque specs are 15 lbs-ft for the hex/check bolt, ~24 lb-ft for the drain, 29 lb-ft for the fill. The cooler return line on the 2011 Tundra looks a bit different in that it's covered up on the inside of the grill. You have to disconnect on the outside of the radiator/cooler - but it is still the top hose, just follow it though to the outside and disconnect there. 3/8" ID tubing fit just fine.
Great video. Very clear and straightforward. Couple additional steps that I would've done was to repeat the process where you start the engine to drain out old fluid. Do that in 1 to 2 quart intervals to flush out all the fluid. When the fluid starts looking new coming out of your clear tube then proceed with your check level process. Again nice video.
Agreed. He did mention exactly what you just said, but it would be helpful for others to see it in case they're not paying attention.
I have a 2013 Tundra SR5 / TRD with 6 speed automatic, 5.7 liter engine. On this model, the transmission cooler and AC condenser are all one piece. The top 25% or the coil is the transmission cooler and the rest is the AC condenser. In this case, you will have to disconnect the rubber hose on the grill side of the radiator instead of the engine side of the radiator. Additionally, I highly highly highly (oh did I mention highly?) recommend purchasing a transmission filter kit, drop the tranny pan, clean it out and clean the magnets in the bottom of the pan. There will be a lot off very fine shavings in the bottom of the pan (from normal wear) and on the magnets. Remove the old filter, install the new one and then reinstall the pan with the new gasket. Of course, this would be done after the first drain you do.
what? this would be done when?
Napa auto parts sells an awesome gasket that is 100 times better than any others I have seen. They run about $65 for a filter and gasket but super high quality.
Very well made! Toyota has changed their Tundra trans oil change interval to 60k miles on my '12. Used to be 100k.
Great video and straight to the point. This is not a new procedure and is the 'poor man flush' can be used on any vehicle. This however outlines great detail on how to do it on a Tundra, well done. I agree with you on Toyota's change interval being way too long. Mine had 122K miles and this must have been the first change, my fluid was BLACK. Truck was searching for gears so I knew something was up. (i'm 2nd owner but truck had all other maint done according to carfax, trans was only thing I didn't see). I used my scangauge II to measure trans temp which made it a little easier to do the top off. Then for final top off I just overfilled a little bit and then started truck, opened the check and drained until it trickled. I was doing this myself so it made it easier then starting/opening check/pouring/looking. Thanks for posting.
did it run better afterwards? i know its been 5 years since you posted lol... I have a similar milage 2013 and ordered everything to do this. I dont think its ever been changed either,.
Great complete video, this is the only one like it right now, good work! Subbed.
Thank you for this excellent video. I followed your video 2 years ago on a 2011 Camry 4 cylinder 6 speed and the car is still running perfect.
Awesome video! Thank you so much. I just did my 07 Tundra and the jumper points worked perfectly. I over did the flush and ended up using 3 3/4 gallons but the fluid was squeaky clean coming out. All in all it's easier than changing the fluid on a turbo hydramatic 350 and all the fluid gets removed. I saved a bunch of money and I know it was done properly!
What fluid did you use?
where can i look up those directions for my 2007 4.7 toyota tundra?
Nice video man! Followed along and knocked mine out. Hell of a lot easier watching it than following a service manual.
Where is the outlet filler hose on the cooler?
Dennis Moffatt
It’s the top hose/barb on your cooler. Slip a 3/8” ID hose on the barb and follow the video. Super easy.
Will that transmission let you go through the gears? I know it shows it in sport mode but that doesn't mean anything. Kinda like the auto lsd in these tundras.
Awesome instructions! Where I'm lost is, you said only fill it to the same amount you drained. BUT, lets say I drain two quarts. And then I fill to the amount I drained, while at the same time its draining MORE old fluid. Do I now pay attention to whatever additional fluid came out, and also add that additional amount? Not trying to cause problems, just making sure I understand each and every step precisely as you instructed. Thanks for the instruction, and awesome video! You have way more patience than I lol.
Best video on TH-cam! Question, to piggyback on previous question. When your filling fluid during flush do you continuously pour while someone going thru gears with truck on or do you pour in stages?
I did it in stages using the volume of the oil sump to pump through the system. I didn't feel confident enough about accidentally overfilling or underfilling so it seemed a little safer. But I'm sure it's doable in one big transfer like that if you're careful.
With 60K on my 2008 Tundra it's time. The local dealer wants $280 to do the flush. almost worth it to me to avoid the mess. however having been a Mercedes master guild tech for 20+ years, I am well aware that just because you went to the dealer does not mean you will get a true tech and not a parts changer. In all actuality 7 out of 10 tech were hacks that sell parts instead of fixing cars. Than I read your experience at the end of your video and it is settled, I will be doing this my self for about $55 in oil.
thanks for your helpful video.
Nice video. Have not DONT the flush year but would like too. You REALLY need to have the TSB in hand when your do this if you don’t have a tech stream TIS at home. Normally I will run the steps to check my fluid level and top off with a hand pump. As stated in the TSB, the engine should be running IOT have the correct fluid level check and to be accurate.
Oh yeah. I have a 2007 tundra with 318,000 miles. Still running strong.
Just did trans fluid on my Tundra. 60 k miles. My friend who is certified master mechanic did the whole thing. Did not do the complete flush.Just dropped the pan and changed filter and gasket. There was no need for complete flush. (We were going for it but after inspecting the oil and pan and filter we did not want to jinx it)Oil was really good. Off red but still redish. He did not believe it. Pan was clear and magnets clean and I mean clean. You will never have red oil in it like the one you put in. It will turn like in the bottle in video w in a day. Drained 6.5 qt. WS ATF is the way to go. Will do this every 30k.
Thanks for the video. I used it to do it myself. Two points that I would like to emphasize: 1) You are repeating the drain/fill process until fluid runs clean from the transmission cooler ( that wasn't clear to me at first). 2) To do the fluid check process and get the fluid at the correct temperature, you need to start from cold. Let the truck sit over night or for several hours.
Again, Thanks
If you start from cold, how do you get the fluid to the proper temperature? Do you just leave the truck running until the D light comes on?
Bravo maestro! not only educational, but it is also an inspiring video!
i put Redline D6 and my truck runs much smoother now.
when i drained the tranny pan in the beginning, about 4.1/4 quarts of ATF came out. i started on cold with removing the level plug first. then, using the method described in this video, i drained 5 more times: 4x2qt and 1x1qt as i had only 15 qts of new ATF.
not sure if i've done the last procedure properly though, as i ended up having more old fluid than i put in, like 1/2 qt more. nevertheless, truck runs great: no slipping, overheating, jolting or delays in shifting. anyways, i'll do level re-check when i get more fluid.
Great job man. We use a flush machine, but didn't know if it had a tstat like the Fords or not. We pin'd the tstat like you showed. Thanks again!
Quick question: do you take out the pin holding the thermostat in before you check the fluid level?
Yes, you do. I totally forgot about that. Taking out the thermostat pin returns the whole system back to "normal" and that's how the level should be checked.
Answered my question.
How's your transmission now ?
@@exploresouthwest The Toyota pdf I have for my 07 tundra states that removing the pin is the very last step of the procedure... Just trying to make sure I do this correctly. Thanks for the video.
@@btmorris82 Yes when you're all done make sure to pull it out. I actually left mine in a day on accident and couldn't figure out why it took 20 mins for the transmission fluid to reach mid range.
It doesn't ruin your transmission if you leave it in. But it's far more efficient if you take it out.
I noticed your temperature dial was hotter with the drive staying on. On my truck the drive comes on after it warms up a couple dials on the gage. Am I not waiting long enough to check the check plug?
Would you still recommend using valvoline max life in your toyota? Did you have any luck with it?
Thanks for this video. I just used it to do my 2011 Tundra and it was super helpful.
Were your jumper pins the same as in the vid? His is a 2009 and mine is a 2013. I am asking you because your year model is a lot closer to mine than his 2009. Thanks.
So not like older trucks where you do the filter as well? Or is it just a screen under there?
I believe there is a screen inside but you'd have to pull all the bolts holding the pan on and I don't know if the screen/filter is accessible without dismantling anything else. This was meant to be a much simpler flush of just the fluids where the only components removed are basically the drain and fill plugs. I REALLY disagree with Toyota's sealed and never change maintenance plan. I don't care what their scientists have done I don't believe the AT fluid maintains itself for over 150k miles.
And considering we're 3 years down the line and it's still running like a champ after the dealer told me it would be a $4000 replacement to swap a new Transmission I think the fluid change has proved it helped.
Trans Oil Cooler outlet hose? 2011 5.7 L Tundra w tow package. Is the outlet hose always the top hose on the cooler? I want to make sure I flush the correct hose.
My Trans oil cooler is much wider than the one shown here and the fittings are on the outside of the engine bay in front.
Have a 2010 4.6L 4x4 model with tow pkg. and has almost 80 k miles. Will probably do this procedure soon. Without researching this, is there another trans fluid that is recommended over the Toyota WS fluid? Thanks.
In the forums using alternative fluid was probably the most debated topic.
I went with the general consensus and used "Valvoline MaxLife DEXRON/MERCON ATF"
amzn.to/2gfSE7S
It can be found at most Auto Stores, and on the back of the bottle it says it's a compatible replacement for "Toyota WS". As one person online pointed out, that either means that they tested it and verified it's a good replacement, or they're willing to have the pants sued off them if they're lying and it blows your transmission up. Either way you're covered. Plus I give companies the benefit of the doubt that a big company like Penzoil isn't going to lie on the actual bottle just to get few sale if the risk was that big.
Explore Southwest Thanks, was just curious. Will probably stick with WS fluid and just look around for the best price.
Thanks for the video. I have a couple of questions for you:
1-Why do you use the overflow port if you can check the level at the correct temperature.
2-Should I check the cold mark first.
3-What is the temperature ranger for the oil? (160-175F)? at what temperature exactly you measure it?
4-Can you use torque pro to get and scanner the correct temperature?
5-Do you know if the paper clip trick works for all Toyotas? what about Camry 2007 LE 4 cyl and Highlander 2011 AWD 6-cyl?
Thank you
1-The overflow port is the level check. These new sealed Transmissions don't have dipsticks.
2- See #1
3- If you mean when you're supposed to test the level? 99-111F which is pretty cold for AT Fluid. This number is different than what I read others doing online so it may vary by model year? That's why you go through the process at 5:00. The transmission light will come on when the temp is right, and blink when it's too high.
4- Yes probably. Be aware of any possible inaccuracy of the temp sensor display. Like I said in #3, if you have the AT light come on the Toyota will tell you when the temperature is just right.
5- Yes, OBD2 ports are standard now but I'm not 100% sure the pin outs are always the same on vehicles. I used a paperclip to jumper the port on my old Toyota made Scion too. The official tool to manually jump the pins is a prettier purpose built wire for the job but it's the same idea, just a wire between 2 pins. The computerized scanners Toyota uses is doing the same thing as well connecting the voltage of the 2 pins.
I just recently bought a 20111 Tundra. This is the first vehicle I've ever owned that has no transmission dipstick. I find it both incredibly stupid design decision, and it stresses me out to not be able to check the fluid level and quality in my own transmission. Seems like nothing more than a money grab by making vehicles continually harder to service so you have to take to the dealer or a shop. 🙈🤦♂
I think Vavoline Max Life is fine to use. It even has WS (World Standard) on the back of the bottle under there recommendation. I haven’t heard anything bad from it either so why not use it?
I did, no problems. Use away.
Use it to flush then when done flushing the old crap use amsoil. That's what I'm going to do 😏
Thanks, about to change my fluid. This is very clear and well done.
Thanks so much, I appreciate the video. My cooler lines were a little different and accessible from in front of the transmission cooler. Other than that, it all worked out well. Thanks again!
Southwest, good video. However when I hook up my clear tubing to the outlet port on the cooler, fluid isn't coming out of the port. Fluid is coming out of the black hose with the pink marking that I removed. Thought? Where did I goofed? I have 2007 tundra 4.7 sr5.
If you have the tow package (with ATF cooler), the bypass valve must be manually opened first before beginning the procedure. Otherwise the fluid will back flow into the black tube as it bypasses the ATF cooler and goes through the ATF warmer, as you described in your problem. Under normal operation, the bypass valve will open on its own once the fluid reaches normal operating temperature. So, unless you open the valve manually the fluid will not flow through ATF cooler until it warms-up - which is not practical when changing the fluid. Manually opening the bypass valve essentially makes the fluid flow as if it was already warmed up. At that point it will come out the ATF cooler tube as described in the video.
I'm in the middle of doing this. I have an 08 tundra 4x4. I used the top cooler line like you said. I put a clear hose there and when I started the truck atf was coming out through the black hose that was there before.
After the initial fluid dump from the pan you say, now you can seal the drain port back up we won't be taking this off again. so does this mean the remainder of old fluid will be coming out of the outlet #1 oil cooler hose as it is being replaced with new fluid until new fluid begins to flow out of the oil cooler? Please confirm. Thanks! -eric
Yes. That's the whole basic idea.
The pan is drained and replaced with good fluid, then you try to keep that filled with new fluid while you run the engine and suck it through the system.
The old fluid is poured off before it can return to the pan.
Theoretically it should replace most of the old fluid with new, but the complexities of the Transmission is you're only replacing a percentage of the fluid. However it's a much higher percentage than if you just drained and refilled the pan alone.
Thank you for this video.
Question: In your video you said to only run the engine while going through the gears until you get the same amount in the pan that was initially drained. Then you say, "once you have clean oil coming out", so do we continue the process of adding fluid and going through the gears?
Yeah. The Transmission has different chambers and fluid pathways that the fluid passes through in different gears. Shifting through the gears just helps get new fluid everywhere. It wouldn't be disastrous to NOT shift through the gears, you'd just have a little more old oil diluted into your new oil when you're done because some that was in there never got flushed out until you shifted through all gears driving after the oil change.
I also considered not doing "batches" of the oil change and to try doing it all at once. The only concern is that the AT oil sump seems to get sucked dry faster than I could pour the new oil in and I didn't want it running dry and sucking up air bubbles into the transmission.
But again, I don't think it would be terribly bad if you did suck air in by accident. I think the system is self purging so if you get a few air bubbles in there, they will work through and come out a few seconds later in the pan. That's why you do the oil level check at the end, just to make sure it's all good after all bubbles have been flushed through and there is new oil in all the chambers and channels.
I like the way you did it in the video. Drain the entire pan, refill with that amount, and repeat draining that same amount out of the cooler line. It makes perfect sense b/c if the vehicle is hot, you should be adding a hair more cold fluid. When you warm it back up to do the check plug drain, you get to drain off the excess.
Great Video! My Question: Im old, so I havent crawled under to find the valve location, where is the location of the this valve ? Driver side ? Front/ rear of tranny? Thank you! By the way Im looking at a 2008 Tundra 4WD BASE MODEL !
It seems like the transmission fluid level is critical. What is the danger involved with overfilling a sealed Tundra transmission ?
Great Info!
Funny to read: " No Thanks" to your local "STEALERSHIP who quoted you $5,000 for transmission Replacement. What a shame!
I was living in Columbia SC, for 3 years and 6 months, I religiously went to Jim Hudson GMC, Buick dealership for my wife 2013 GMC Terrain. I pay for synthetic oil that they never put in my engine and they did not change my oil filters all this time. I now live in Bandywine, Maryland, I noticed that I am a professional mechanic than those so called mechanics (vultures) in this area, and even tough I never worked in a shop nor I went to a mechanic trade school (thanks to numerous TH-camrs) like you, Chris Fix, Scotty Kilmer, Eric the-car-Guy, and many others. I have a 2016 Toyota Tundra Crewmax 4 X 4 TRD Off Road. I'll do the maintenance myself in order to protect my investment and to make sure the required service is done correctly. Thanks for everything!
So there is a temperature sensor on the transmission and this tells the temp of the fluid?
was that valvoline max life synthetic? and how many quarts did you end up using?
Yes it is Valvoline max life synthetic.
From what I read online you need just shy of 3 gallons for the swap. So I bought 3 and a quart to be safe. But the fluid started running clean after just over 2 gallons, so I ended up using 2.5 gallons for the swap. But when doing the leveling check procedure I ended up pouring most of the last half gallon in.
I was a little wasteful during the leveling check but was glad to have the extra fluid instead of coming up short.
Do you need to lock the thermostatic valve open if you're just doing a drain & fill?
You don't NEED to. But all that fluid in the cooling loop will be trapped and won't get flushed.
about to do this, did you start with the transmission oil already warm or from a cold start
It was lukewarm, the truck had been sitting about an hour; but definitely not cold
This was kind of a problem when I had to do the procedure to get the fluid level correct. Just running the engine to pump the old fluid out heated the fluid up past the measuring point. I went inside the house, ate dinner, came back outside 2 hours later to try again and the fluid temp was just about right.
I know that different model years seem to use different fluid temps for the level-check procedure and the 2009 seems to like the temp to be pretty cool.
Explore Southwest what is the proper temperature is it better to do when first thing in the morning or should I run the vehicle and let it rest for a few hours and let the temperature be like a hundred hundred fifty degrees what do you think
I prefer to do it at a higher temperature, the fluid flows much better when it's warm. The problem only came when I had to do the fluid level check, the instructions for my model year involved the fluid being lower than that. So I took a break in the house to let everything cool before wrapping up the whole thing.
It was only about a year ago my local Wal mart had max life for $20 a gallon. I wish I had bought 10 gals.
When you're checking the fluid level do you still have the paper clip holding the thermostat in?
I did.
Although in retrospect I don't know if you need to or if it makes a difference. There shouldn't be any air in the AT coolant loop, so open or closed it wouldn't really affect the overall amount in the pan.
If it's closed the fluid is held inside, but if it's empty there is no air hole in the top to allow the fluid to drain (plus the engine is running so everything is in constant circulation).
The procedure for changing the oil and the procedure for checking the fluid level are 2 completely different processes in the Technical manual; and the fluid check process doesn't mention holding the thermostat open.
For that reason I don't I would leave the paperclip in.
But from the way it's designed I also don't think it would make a big change to the level if you left it in.
How do you purge old fluid on 2014 and newer with heat exchanger on side of trans (no cooler lines to front)?
How do you connect the hose if you do have the tow package?
Pls my tundra can't select from gear 4 to gear 6, what can i do
I dropped a plastic nipple into the fill port of an A760f- the 6-speed in the GX460. I dropped the pan and valve body and don’t have access. Will this stay put, will it get ground and and be caught in filter, or will it destroy the AT?
should be fine as long as its not very small....like a bb or something.
@@dalephillips8250 thanks dale. That was the general but not unanimous consensus as I frantically questioned message boards and a dozen or so mechanics I associate with. However I opted to use a flexible borescope camera to find it and attempt extraction. It sat in a cavity where the fluid pours and drains into the gears. The nipple was large enough to fall through the 2” chamber opening into the gears. So it would have eventually gotten chewed up. I believe in turn this would have made it to the valve assemble and caused damage. After about 16 hours of effort, I finally fished it out. I have some video on my page of the effort although I wasn’t capturing when I finally got a good hold on it- obviously I wasn’t going to spoil that moment for some internet points!
@@MrTigerHank thanks for info. I Said that because all ford crown vic,grand marquis and Lincoln Town cars will have a yellow plug floating in the pan the first time you drop the pan to Chang fluid/filter as was in mine. I was told this is because the trans dip stick tube is plugged from factory and they just punch it down in to the transmission at first fill and don't worry about it. But it is rather large and can't make it into any thing important
Where is the oil cooler located to open thermostat?
We change ours every 1 year. Never had a trans issue.
Quick and to the point!
Great job!!! Is the process for 07 Tundra tranny flush the same for 07 Tacoma 5 spd auto tranny flush? Seems very similar... Tnx
Although I'm not currently at a Toyota dealer, I graduated with a T-TEN diploma and I can tell you that if you think WS ATF is watered down Dexron you shouldn't be changing your ATF at home. Toyota has a reason for EVERYTHING which is why I own one. I highly recommend you amend your video to ONLY condone WS ATF. There is no other accepted substitute in the industry.
Toyota wants to make money just like everyone else. They put out a TSB on how to properly drain and fill the transmission and this guy followed every single step.
BowHunter77 key phrase there "drain and fill." toyota would never recommend a backyard flushing technique like this.
Of course they wouldn't, because your average Joe wouldn't know what the hell is going on. I'm a certified GM mechanic that happens to love Tundras and this method works very well. It drains/pumps out the old fluid in the torque converter and draws in new fluid which is better than just draining the pan. I took it one step further and replaced the pan filter on the valve body. Toyota doesn't make bad fluids but they also don't make the best as you seem to imply in your first comment.
I don't always use OEM parts, but you'd be a fool use a one-size-fits-all ATF. Motor oil...sure use anything. With ATF you better stick with OEM with specific friction modifiers. Toyota's ATF is very high quality, just do some research before you say that because Drohawk is correct about this.
From all the forums there are plenty of folks switching from ATF WS to the the Valvoline Max Life synthetic with no problems after thousands of miles of use. Some say the tranny works better than before.
Would adding a Out Bucket and In Bucket with 9qts in one (input) could you just cycle in and out equal amounts + .5L and call it even ? verifying light drip out of fill hole?
Once you pull the line off the cooler the there is no longer any pressure in the return portion of the system, so no suction to pull in the clean fluid.
Do your remember how much oil come out of your truck because on mine is added 3 and half quarts. In your video it showed 2.
The test worked on my 2011 tundra but I don't believe it to be accurate temperature. It showed D on immediately and I test temp with infrared thermoter it only showed 92
BIG PROBLEM - In this video you only changed about 4 quarts of fluid total. And the problem is that the transmission holds about 11 quarts of fluid. So you still have 7 quarts yet to change. Also, NOTHING mentioned about which transmission this is... there are 4 DIFFERENT transmissions for those years: 5 speed a750e (2wd) and a 6 speed a750f (4wd) and then 6 speed in those years has different numbers as well... so what is this for?
Where does my line go if I do not have the tow package?
I have the 07 v6 4 speed automatic tundra and its been slipping for awhile now but tonight past 40 mph it would not shift over then when I turned off my truck and then back on the transmission light, VSC light, and the traction control light were all on. Is this because I need to do a transmission flush? 123k miles
slipping? delays or wouldn't shift? sounds like you are running low on atf. replacing it and adjusting the level most likely would address that. but won't address a leak if you got one.
Isn't this basically what a dealership would do with a flush machine?
When do you repeat the process. Drive how many miles and change again?
It's really your own prerogative. Toyota considers they system sealed and never needing maintenance which sounds like BS to direct traffic to their dealerships for repairs to me.
I prefer to stick to a schedule similar to other foreign vehicles, maybe slightly longer giving Toyota some benefit of the doubt.
45k-60k miles. Maybe a bit shorter if the first time you change the fluid and it seems especially bad, darker colored than normal or a "burnt" smell.
I can't able to located the thermostat on my 2012 Toyota tundra, it is do have tow haul package those.
no idea which engine or transmission this is for...
what the correct temp on a 2008 tundra 4.7?
Explore Southwest, can you give us an update on the Tundra?
Yeah definitely!
The transmission is still running like a champ. The occasional gear slippage I experienced before the fluid change never came back. I keep an eye on my dashboard gauges while driving in more stressful situations and have never seen the AT Oil temp sensor go above the middle of the gauge.
There have been a few times I've been a bit rougher on the transmission than I should have been. Sometimes while coasting down a hill I'll drop to a lower gear to help engine braking and it's never given any alarming thuds or violent shifts. The transmissions downshifts quickly.
I've also mashed the pedal down a few times merging into traffic which a few times before caused the transmission to slip because of the sudden load. That has never happened since the fluid change, now I have the opposite problem where I've chirped the tires or spun out a bit because the power of the engine and the solid drive-line caused the wheels to break traction with the road ans spin.
Great video. Thank you.
nice video. i have a 2017 tundra sr5 4x4 with trans cooler. but my trans lines going to the cooler are not in the same place as yours in your video. i dont want to screw this up. my truck only has 16k miles on it. ive done 2 engine oil changes myself and stupid me, i changed oil today in preparation for a long trip and i drained the trans instead of the engine oil. so nice clean red oil came out but it was too late! the trans pan emptied. so I really dont see a need for the full flush and all that at this point, i just want to add the fluid back and call it good.
but i would like to know about the trans lines on my truck so i can do it for real in another 15k or so. thanks
DEANES ON THE MOVE if you drained the transmission fluid thinking it was the motor oil pan, perhaps you shouldn’t be working on your truck. If I were you I would just stick to maintaining the blinker fluid levels on your truck.
@@MajorCordite LOL.
tanks for vid, excellent ., thank you sir.😎
in my country the toyota company do not do this they change only 4 liter only
shouldnt the filter be replaced as well though?
It's not a requirement (though technically according to Toyota neither is the fluid change).
I thought long and hard about doing it myself. The amount of work needed to swap the filter is much more than just a fluid change and requires buying new filters and gaskets.
I decided not to replace the filter because it's really just a mesh screen and not a paper/cloth-like filter. EVERY person I talked to online that did the full filter replacement said that there was no blockage and there had been no need for it and wouldn't recommend it.
So my train of thought is to focus on doing fluid changes a bit more often to keep the fluid clean. A Transmission fluid change isn't a 100% change, there is always some dirty fluid contained in the chambers so it's more like a 75% change each time you do it.
I totally agree with you Jeremy.
@@exploresouthwest Thanks for this informative video. I removed the pan and changed the filter and the gasket. If you do go this route, you would need to order the rubber O-Ring on the transmission filter, as the OEM version from toyota does not come with one. Other videos on TH-cam does not mention this. I understand that some aftermarket ones comes with this O-ring. Another note is that there is about a quart of fluid in the filter and residual ATF in the pan that does not come out when you remove the drain plug.
If you live in the rust belt you run the risk of breaking a pan bolt then you just shot yourself on the foot
how about atf filter???
To bad I can only give you 1 thumbs up 👍👍
Now days. You have to take valve body out, remove everything from it, spray it it all, huge amounts of metal dust gums them up and ruins the trans. Causes solenoid failures ect
What is that music in the background, it sounds familiar to me
Just a song I got off a royalty free music website to avoid being muted by the TH-cam bots. I'm sure I'm not the only person who's used it so you probably heard the exact same song somewhere else.
www.audioblocks.com/stock-audio/live-the-moment-92972.html
Good vids!
thanks very very mutch
So about 6 quarts?
Roughly, yes. But it's certainly fine to have extra in a jug at home if you need to top it off later, or if you change the fluid again in 30k-60k whatever.
The problem is that it's not a 100% transfer like draining and refilling the engine oil. The transmission has all kinds of nooks and crannies and multiple pathways for fluid to pass through depending on what gear the transmission is is. So the more fluid you move through it the more of the old oil you clean out.
By time 6 quarts has gone through you've probably flushed out 90% or more.
Explore Southwest 6 quarts total to get the job done, flush and refill?
Donde esta ese taller
Is yours a 4x4?
Yeah, with the tow package.
Explore Southwest hello love your video man is it necessary to change the filter out if you're going to do a flush I am going to do a flush but I'm just going to use to gallons would it be okay to mix with the old oil SW transmission fluid oil and also I am going to have somebody helping me when the oils actually coming out in the pan from the hos I am going to be pouring it in there at the same time so it does not get low and run dry is that a good idea keep the same level at all times you know what I mean
Where can I find the thermostat shaft mentioned on 0:29-0:53?
On mine it was on the passenger side of the transmission. In that clip I looking up into the underbody with the front of the Truck is down to the right.
But you'll only have that module if your truck has the tow package with the automatic transmission oil cooler. Otherwise it's not even there.
Thank you very much, now I can attempt the fluid change. Did the valvoline ATF give you any problem?
None at all, it's easy to work with. And currently the Truck is running fine on it.
$400. ?? Last time I had mine done it was $180.00. I do change all other fluids in my Tundra except the tranny. I wouldn’t recommend doing this on your own.
Where you have that done at shane brown. From cushman?
sounds like a "pan drop". Meaning about 25% of the fluid is changed out. Toyota quoted me $200 just for this. You get about 4-5 quarts of new fluid...so sort of a refresh.
shane brown I was just quoted $375 from a Toyota dealer for an A/T fluid exchange.
forcedair 92gt yea it's outrageous. they pretty much refused to do a full flush for me even though I made an appointment and was ready to pay for it. They acted all unprepared and even though I told them what I wanted and made an appointment. When they said it was going to be $300 for a pan drop I said forget it I can do that in the driveway for the price of fluid...Just DIYourself. I did and it was easy. Drain what you can out of the pan, then carefully measure what you drained out and replace the same amount. Use WS fluid, it's probably best not to mix. I did this and it was fine..it shifted better afterwards.There's no need to do the stupid temperature check. They aren't as sensitive as people say.
I hate that these car companies are doing this lifetime fill shit. It's shit
, interesting the dealer charge me $225 to do what this gentleman just requested also he had no mention the transmission fluid that has to reach a certain temperature before you can drain it literally run the vehicle sounds like a lot of trouble not sure if this guy is a garage mechanic or a pro be careful who you listen to anyway good for him 2:20 I'll take it to the dealer every fucking time and by the way the transmission fluid in the Toyota is Lifetime never supposed to be changed I don't know you do the research
Nice video, Thanks
Great video. Thank you.