I DO IT EVERY 6O,OOO.OO AND I'M ABOUT TO HIT 18O,OOO.OO I ALREADY BOUGHT THE TRANSMISSION FILTER & OIL PAN GASKET AND 1O QUARTZ FOR THE DRAIN AND FULL FLUSH AND STILL RUNS LIKE A CHAMP TOO
Thanks for this! I have an 02 AC 2WD with 140k miles which I recently purchased cheap but with known transmission issues. The cable was frayed where it connects to the steering column and in addition to the top skinny bar of the shift lever bracket being broken, the inner tilt bracket front (where the front bolt of the shift lever attaches) was broken off. I guess both of these issues are very common that AFAIK never became a recall item but should be. So I replaced both brackets and was luckily able to find a NOS tilt bracket on eBay for $100. I also replaced the shift cable with OEM as that is best in these cases of course and no one actually makes an aftermarket cable. When warmed up, and in park (I haven't even tried switching gears yet) the transmission is making a pretty consistent "box of rocks" sound ..kind of like what small gravel would sound like being slowly spun in a jar of transmission fluid. So I'm pulling off the pan today. I drained it already and the fluid is dark red but so far see no bits of metal, but I know there are magnets in the pan to inspect. Given the noise however, and after reading a forum thread, I fear the Torq Converter is shot and or some of the Planetary Gears. I don't think it would make the noises if they were not. Lastly, because I'm not stupid nor rich, I'm not going to buy a used junkyard transmission as they are $500 to $1000 and you don't know what you're getting or how long it will last, nor am I going to pay $3500 or more for a rebuilt one! Instead, I'm going the DIY route, will buy a quality rebuild kit with Raybestos clutch plates, and rebuild it myself. I also found a great TH-cam video on cleaning the solenoids. I think that ultimately this is the best way to go. Any advice here is greatly appreciated, like who makes good kits, any upgrade parts, etc. Thank you!
@@charlesz25 Yes I did. From the top down I replaced the shift lever… (the overdrive switch was not working on the original which I guess is a common failure). I also replaced the inner shift column bracket which commonly breaks. I replaced the shift cable. And most importantly I fully rebuilt the transmission myself and was able to purchase a good used overdrive planetary gear set off eBay for around $200. All in all I spent about $1300 in parts and did it all myself. I literally had about 300 miles on it before towing a fully loaded 14ft dual axle trailer from San Diego to Albuquerque. The issue, I think, was of course the shredded gear set, but maybe it occurred because they didn’t know you should routinely tow with the overdrive off and maybe the switch had failed, thus causing the shift issues, bracket failure, cable failure, and ultimately the transmission itself. Lastly, from what I’ve learned, the Torrington bearing behind the gearset is the main failure point and should be more robust. Once it overheats, it disintegrates and much of its little needles friction weld into the back of the gearset and then the gears of the gearset also fail and strip out. If you must purchase a new geaset from Toyota, that part alone is over $1000.
@@mauriciogonzalez6302 nice, my 02 sequoias at 140, I'm changing it next week, gunna try a full flush tho. You should check the maf sensor and the butterfly plate in the throttle body, I just cleaned mine last night, the maf sensor was black and the plate was almost sealed up with carbon. It stars up quicker, idles a lot smoother and seems to have a better throttle response now.
Good video TM! I always measure what comes out of vehicles so I know what should go back in. Just make sure you check the level beforehand. Also, if you use identical jars/ containers, you can pour new fluid to the exact same level as old fluid and not have to know anything about the. Actual ounces or quarts or whatever. I used old plastic oil containers or plastic orange juice bottles etc for this. Just make sure they are cleaned out well. Lastly, that is the craziest looking dip stick tube I have ever seen all exposed like that. Bad design Toyota! Thanks for sharing!
Great video. For the DIY'er hard to even know proper method to read the dipstick (while running, cold vs hot), let alone change fluid. Very informative, thank you.
Great video Peter, just watched it again to see if any mention of the ATF cooler. Is it the small radiator in front of the coolant radiator? I have it on my 2005 double cab V8. I read on some forum that it was standard on all the double cabs. Some say it was part of the tow package along with a heavy duty alternator and battery...
Max Life is backwards compatible with type IV which was used in the video. I have an 07 Tundra that takes WS fluid I have heard some people using Maxlife in that situation I never have
I love this channel. I just bought a 2002 Sequoia. Where are you located? I don't want anyone else to touch my truck but you lol. Keep up the good work
What was the condition of the strainer? Did it have to be replaced? I have 180000 on my Tundra & I'd like to just try and get away with changing the fluid because I'm 75 miles to a Toyota dealer. Thx4tv
You're gunna have to change it at some point, might as well just bite the bullet. You can get the filter at any parts store. I'm up in Canada, I think it was $80 if I remember correctly. If the filters get clogged, which they will over time, you're going to slow the flow of fluid and eventually burn out ur trans, $40-$80 vs a new trans is a easy choice.
@@slipnslide83 I glad you got it back up and on the road. I did the drop, top and filter, and it got rid of the slip and slam into 2nd. After reading a bunch on it, it can go either way. Mine is an early 2000 4x4, 250k. Also did the transfer case, front, and rear differential oils with Mobil One 75w90. Night and day difference.
Hey TM, maybe you could help me if you have a minute? I’m getting a CEL, P0770 shift solenoid e in my 2002 Sequoia. There’s a lot of folks on the internet saying replacing the solenoids won’t fix the problem, it’s probably more likely a bad torque converter. Could you opine? Thanks!
That was fantastic. Your slow pacing is perfect. I have the 2004 with the 3.4L engine and have developed a leak, due to rust, where the fill tube connects to the transmission drain pan. Is it possible to purchase a new/used fill tube and replace just that part or must one purchase a whole new drain pan? Thank you!
I have the V8 like he shows in the video. Normally with some persuasion the dip tub will split at the middle point like he showed. However if it is leaking down where it connects to the pan, I think you will need a new pan.
@@tomb6319 Hi Tom, thanks for your reply. I ended up buying a new pan which wasn't too bad. The problem was, the truck is so rusty I was SURE I would break off multiple bolts trying to get them lose. Unbelievably, I got them all out with not one breaking! Some heat helped, and lube. One thing you might want to mention in your video is the need to drop the sway bar. There was NO WAY the pan was going in without doing that. Unless there is some trick I don't know about. Maybe it's different on the V8 but on the V6 it def blocks the pan. I of course then had a leak in one of the return lines, as well, but I cut it and put in a piece of hose and double-clamped it. No way I was going to attempt to take off those lines. This is a New England truck, more rust than metal. Cheers!
Great video. Getting ready to do this myself for the first time. i can't find the Toyota ATF Type T-IF fluid at Autozone or Oreilly. Is there an acceptable replacement? or do i need to buy from dealer
Hello sir, I love your videos. Do you think I should replace my transmission filter on my 2011 Lexus is350. I don’t know the history but the fluid was very dark brown when I did a drain and fill procedure, even after doing it twice it was brown still. Do you think it would be wise to change the filter? The vehicle has 162,000 miles. I have heard some conflicting opinions but I want to know your opinion and if you recommend changing filter. Thank you Mr. Toyota Maintenance.
What good is a working transmission if engine is blown from no oil? That truck has an owner who doesn’t value their investment. Or they think toyota is so good that they don’t need maintenance.
Just check it every 2 weeks when filling gas tank. Takes less than 1 minute. It should be slightly below full line (should be at full line if you wait 5min)
I'm surprised, If the trans never leaked from Toyota with NO gasket, why in the world would you risk USING a gasket. Transmission pans are notorious for leaking through the gasket. If It didn't leak with no gasket, don't put one in. Whats the old saying? "If It ain't broke, don't fix It" Just my opinion friend, thank you for your channel..
No too difficult. I got mine through the passenger tire wheel well. You need to pop some of the plastic clips off the rubber flap. Those clips need to be replaced as they break when removing. I just pay the dealer for those but maybe cheaper at auto parts store. Ratchet extensions and swivels can sometimes be helpful.
No dipstick, WS, but otherwise same procedure for 2005-2007 Sealed so you have to fill from underneath. Betting you've already done it and now are a Master of Pump Fill as well!
For someone currently wanting a base price (01/14/2021) my Toyota dealer quoted me... 3 Franklins plus ($300+), and somewhere after I heard that I said, "Oh, well maybe I'll do it another time/year." My 2003 has 160K miles on the clock. I just purchased this SR5 two wheel drive Tundra and I too have no service info as to whether or not the fluid has ever been serviced with or without the pan removed and that inner piece RnR'd. My truck will be hardly driven in the next several years, probably less than 5K/year. My daily driver is a sedan, a 2013 '4 banger' Chrysler 200 that someone gave me a couple years ago. ...... p.s. my SR5 has been a SW desert pickup all its life with me the third owner, the clearcoat has burnt off, but there's no corrosion like I see on so many here have had that lived in snow country. I think I'll just do a double drain of the fluid and not drop the pan for a few more years. ..... p.p.s. no one gave me the Chrysler; but I'm embaressed to admit it was all at the time I could find on the lot that I could afford to finance. HVAC blend accuators are always fouling. Chrysler really mucked up that aspect of my model year.
Very nice thank you. I just change the fluid out every 25k and my Sequoia has 365,000 miles. Maybe when I get to 400,000 I will drop the pan.
Your how-to video puts to shame all the others I've found on youtube -- very complete and thorough and helpful. Thank you!
Thank you for providing complete and comprehensive instructions.
Love this man and his beautiful accent,
Will be doing my transmission oil with my dad later this week and using this video as a guide
I am eastern european also and have an accent but his accent is terrible in my opinion.
As usual this video is extremely helpful for a toyota Sequoia owner! Thank you so much!
I have a first gen tundra. I change my trans fluid every 20-30K cause I tow and it runs like a champ.
very good
Do you do the strainer/filter every time as well?
I DO IT EVERY 6O,OOO.OO AND I'M ABOUT TO HIT 18O,OOO.OO I ALREADY BOUGHT THE TRANSMISSION FILTER & OIL PAN GASKET AND 1O QUARTZ FOR THE DRAIN AND FULL FLUSH AND STILL RUNS LIKE A CHAMP TOO
Thanks for this! I have an 02 AC 2WD with 140k miles which I recently purchased cheap but with known transmission issues. The cable was frayed where it connects to the steering column and in addition to the top skinny bar of the shift lever bracket being broken, the inner tilt bracket front (where the front bolt of the shift lever attaches) was broken off. I guess both of these issues are very common that AFAIK never became a recall item but should be. So I replaced both brackets and was luckily able to find a NOS tilt bracket on eBay for $100. I also replaced the shift cable with OEM as that is best in these cases of course and no one actually makes an aftermarket cable.
When warmed up, and in park (I haven't even tried switching gears yet) the transmission is making a pretty consistent "box of rocks" sound ..kind of like what small gravel would sound like being slowly spun in a jar of transmission fluid. So I'm pulling off the pan today. I drained it already and the fluid is dark red but so far see no bits of metal, but I know there are magnets in the pan to inspect. Given the noise however, and after reading a forum thread, I fear the Torq Converter is shot and or some of the Planetary Gears. I don't think it would make the noises if they were not.
Lastly, because I'm not stupid nor rich, I'm not going to buy a used junkyard transmission as they are $500 to $1000 and you don't know what you're getting or how long it will last, nor am I going to pay $3500 or more for a rebuilt one! Instead, I'm going the DIY route, will buy a quality rebuild kit with Raybestos clutch plates, and rebuild it myself. I also found a great TH-cam video on cleaning the solenoids. I think that ultimately this is the best way to go. Any advice here is greatly appreciated, like who makes good kits, any upgrade parts, etc. Thank you!
Did you ever complete the repair? How'd it go? What was the issue?
@@charlesz25 Yes I did. From the top down I replaced the shift lever… (the overdrive switch was not working on the original which I guess is a common failure). I also replaced the inner shift column bracket which commonly breaks. I replaced the shift cable. And most importantly I fully rebuilt the transmission myself and was able to purchase a good used overdrive planetary gear set off eBay for around $200. All in all I spent about $1300 in parts and did it all myself. I literally had about 300 miles on it before towing a fully loaded 14ft dual axle trailer from San Diego to Albuquerque. The issue, I think, was of course the shredded gear set, but maybe it occurred because they didn’t know you should routinely tow with the overdrive off and maybe the switch had failed, thus causing the shift issues, bracket failure, cable failure, and ultimately the transmission itself. Lastly, from what I’ve learned, the Torrington bearing behind the gearset is the main failure point and should be more robust. Once it overheats, it disintegrates and much of its little needles friction weld into the back of the gearset and then the gears of the gearset also fail and strip out. If you must purchase a new geaset from Toyota, that part alone is over $1000.
Your vids are absolutely the best on the internet. Great work
Thank you for this video and all your other videos. It helps me out a bunch.!
happy to hear that
Thank you for measuring the amount of fluid that drained out of the transmission, including the filter.
Great job. I washed and replaced fully (with the special unit) the transmission oil on my 2002 Toyota Highlaned on 160k. Now is running smoothly.
good job to you !
Had been changed before? I’m at 155k on a tundra and I’m not sure if I should go ahead and change it. How’s the highlander running now?
@@mauriciogonzalez6302 I'd change it.
@@jordanmercier3616 I did change it. Smooth sailing so far.
@@mauriciogonzalez6302 nice, my 02 sequoias at 140, I'm changing it next week, gunna try a full flush tho. You should check the maf sensor and the butterfly plate in the throttle body, I just cleaned mine last night, the maf sensor was black and the plate was almost sealed up with carbon. It stars up quicker, idles a lot smoother and seems to have a better throttle response now.
Thank you. Very well explained. I appreciated your time that you took to do this video.
Good video TM! I always measure what comes out of vehicles so I know what should go back in. Just make sure you check the level beforehand. Also, if you use identical jars/ containers, you can pour new fluid to the exact same level as old fluid and not have to know anything about the. Actual ounces or quarts or whatever. I used old plastic oil containers or plastic orange juice bottles etc for this. Just make sure they are cleaned out well. Lastly, that is the craziest looking dip stick tube I have ever seen all exposed like that. Bad design Toyota! Thanks for sharing!
you are welcome, thanks for sharing your ways
Just curious what state are you working in? You are honest and very precise.
Great video. For the DIY'er hard to even know proper method to read the dipstick (while running, cold vs hot), let alone change fluid. Very informative, thank you.
Great video Peter, just watched it again to see if any mention of the ATF cooler. Is it the small radiator in front of the coolant radiator? I have it on my 2005 double cab V8. I read on some forum that it was standard on all the double cabs. Some say it was part of the tow package along with a heavy duty alternator and battery...
You're awesome. Thank you kindly for the great videos.
Whats the opinion on using Valvoline Maxlife ATF instead of Toyota's Tiv Atf?
Always use oem transmission Toyota fluid
Max Life is backwards compatible with type IV which was used in the video. I have an 07 Tundra that takes WS fluid I have heard some people using Maxlife in that situation I never have
Backwards?
I love this channel. I just bought a 2002 Sequoia. Where are you located? I don't want anyone else to touch my truck but you lol. Keep up the good work
Can removing the pan be done without a lift, or is there not enough clearance to get the dipstick tube out?
What was the condition of the strainer? Did it have to be replaced? I have 180000 on my Tundra & I'd like to just try and get away with changing the fluid because I'm 75 miles to a Toyota dealer. Thx4tv
You're gunna have to change it at some point, might as well just bite the bullet. You can get the filter at any parts store. I'm up in Canada, I think it was $80 if I remember correctly. If the filters get clogged, which they will over time, you're going to slow the flow of fluid and eventually burn out ur trans, $40-$80 vs a new trans is a easy choice.
I just do a single drain and fill every 40k miles. 2006 Matrix with 130k miles.
Hello, thank you for the video. Is that transmission still running okay ?
The total transmission fluid capacity is 13 qts in the V8 motor. How do I do a complete fluid drain and replacement?
Thanks for the well explained video
What are some of the symptoms of transmission fluid needing to be changed
Usually should be changed at 50-100k. By the time you have symptoms, it's usually too late.
Just an FYI the manual states on my V8 4wd 2005 and later models the transmission fluid should be (Toyota Genuine ATF WS.)
What's the process of refilling the transmission with fluid ?
Will this apply the same with a 2010 4 runner? Plus can you do a replacing power steering fluid DIY video?😊👍🏻🔑
Do more vids on this truck I have 2004 that seems to shift late in between shifts 1-2 gear over 40% throttle. Any ideas?
Same here.
@@alabama2uz I ended up getting a trans with 90K on it. All good now. Almost 2000 miles after the swap so far.
@@slipnslide83 I glad you got it back up and on the road. I did the drop, top and filter, and it got rid of the slip and slam into 2nd. After reading a bunch on it, it can go either way. Mine is an early 2000 4x4, 250k. Also did the transfer case, front, and rear differential oils with Mobil One 75w90. Night and day difference.
Excellent video!
Thanks,great video ,so much information in so short video 👊🏼
Tienes excelentes videos , te felicito
Great job. Thanks for sharing this video. Good information.
Hey TM, maybe you could help me if you have a minute? I’m getting a CEL, P0770 shift solenoid e in my 2002 Sequoia. There’s a lot of folks on the internet saying replacing the solenoids won’t fix the problem, it’s probably more likely a bad torque converter. Could you opine? Thanks!
Wow a drain bolt and a dipstick back when trucks used to be trucks
That was fantastic. Your slow pacing is perfect. I have the 2004 with the 3.4L engine and have developed a leak, due to rust, where the fill tube connects to the transmission drain pan. Is it possible to purchase a new/used fill tube and replace just that part or must one purchase a whole new drain pan? Thank you!
I have the V8 like he shows in the video. Normally with some persuasion the dip tub will split at the middle point like he showed. However if it is leaking down where it connects to the pan, I think you will need a new pan.
@@tomb6319 Hi Tom, thanks for your reply. I ended up buying a new pan which wasn't too bad. The problem was, the truck is so rusty I was SURE I would break off multiple bolts trying to get them lose. Unbelievably, I got them all out with not one breaking! Some heat helped, and lube. One thing you might want to mention in your video is the need to drop the sway bar. There was NO WAY the pan was going in without doing that. Unless there is some trick I don't know about. Maybe it's different on the V8 but on the V6 it def blocks the pan. I of course then had a leak in one of the return lines, as well, but I cut it and put in a piece of hose and double-clamped it. No way I was going to attempt to take off those lines. This is a New England truck, more rust than metal. Cheers!
Thanks Peter, very good video.
Great video. Getting ready to do this myself for the first time. i can't find the Toyota ATF Type T-IF fluid at Autozone or Oreilly. Is there an acceptable replacement? or do i need to buy from dealer
Dealer has it
Always go to the dealer. Dealer has good prices 👍
Valovine MaxLife Multi-Vehicle works well for Type IV
Toyota doesn’t make that fluid unlike Acura and Honda. Don’t listen to the oem lovers
Thank you, very straightforward.
I would trust him to work on my 2006 Tundra......no better recommendation would be possible.
We love you man. 🙂👌
Hello sir, I love your videos. Do you think I should replace my transmission filter on my 2011 Lexus is350. I don’t know the history but the fluid was very dark brown when I did a drain and fill procedure, even after doing it twice it was brown still. Do you think it would be wise to change the filter? The vehicle has 162,000 miles. I have heard some conflicting opinions but I want to know your opinion and if you recommend changing filter. Thank you Mr. Toyota Maintenance.
Yeah bro stop being cheap
Why did I find burnt plastic pieces in my pan …. I opened it to change solenoids because one was reading bad and it was slipping when it got hot
Where in Deutschland are you from? I was in US Army there for 18 months 1980-1982 in Nurnburg.
Yesss !!finally i found one of these i needed to know if you could actually do that
great to hear that
Excellent how to. Thank you!
I love your channel. Thanks!
I noticed the light on the dash for D is burnt out.. has been on my Tundra for years.. since it costs way too much to replace it.
Exactly what I needed! Danke!
Thanks for sharing your video.i learn so much.
Chamge playback speed to 1.5x. Makes his words seem to be at a normal pace. lol
Thanks for the video bt the way good sir.
Thanks for sharing this video, interesting information.
Did you check why the engine check light is on?
yes , many codes, probably bad O2 sensor
Good Video and detailed information , Thanks
Toyota uses rtv on the pan for a reason. That rubber gasket is more likely to leak down the road.
What good is a working transmission if engine is blown from no oil? That truck has an owner who doesn’t value their investment. Or they think toyota is so good that they don’t need maintenance.
they learned, will watch it in future
Well said
Just check it every 2 weeks when filling gas tank. Takes less than 1 minute. It should be slightly below full line (should be at full line if you wait 5min)
It was abused yes but it just shows how good these trucks are
Thanks for sharing this video.good information provided.
Love the videos I was wondering where you got the parts?
So how many Quarts did it take?
Very helpful to me to get this done on mine...
Sexy pick up right there buddy!
I'm surprised, If the trans never leaked from Toyota with NO gasket, why in the world would you risk USING a gasket. Transmission pans are notorious for leaking through the gasket. If It didn't leak with no gasket, don't put one in. Whats the old saying? "If It ain't broke, don't fix It" Just my opinion friend, thank you for your channel..
Well done, sir.
thank you
How did you reach to the 12 mm bolt dip stick bolt? I'm sure my tube will not separate due to rust.
Thank You.
I have a 2001 Tundra uses Dextron 3 transmission fluid.
No too difficult. I got mine through the passenger tire wheel well. You need to pop some of the plastic clips off the rubber flap. Those clips need to be replaced as they break when removing. I just pay the dealer for those but maybe cheaper at auto parts store. Ratchet extensions and swivels can sometimes be helpful.
Great video, this is my next maintenance item for my 05 tundra. Thanks!
No dipstick, WS, but otherwise same procedure for 2005-2007 Sealed so you have to fill from underneath.
Betting you've already done it and now are a Master of Pump Fill as well!
Would an 04 trans pan with dipstick fit an 05 ? I have an 05 limited.
I'm sure u figured this out by now, but I believe the 05's got the 5 speed trans when they moved to vvti, I'm not sure if the pan is the same or not.
I definitely want you to work on my 04 tundra
Thx, I need to do that to my transmission.
Any clue why I have transmission fluid leaking from the engine oil pan?
What about that Check Engine Light?
I think that check engine light is only on your truck 😂
Nice job
Quick question how much does this service cost to do I have a 2004 Sequoia thank you
For someone currently wanting a base price (01/14/2021) my Toyota dealer quoted me... 3 Franklins plus ($300+), and somewhere after I heard that I said, "Oh, well maybe I'll do it another time/year."
My 2003 has 160K miles on the clock. I just purchased this SR5 two wheel drive Tundra and I too have no service info as to whether or not the fluid has ever been serviced with or without the pan removed and that inner piece RnR'd.
My truck will be hardly driven in the next several years, probably less than 5K/year. My daily driver is a sedan, a 2013 '4 banger' Chrysler 200 that someone gave me a couple years ago.
......
p.s. my SR5 has been a SW desert pickup all its life with me the third owner, the clearcoat has burnt off, but there's no corrosion like I see on so many here have had that lived in snow country.
I think I'll just do a double drain of the fluid and not drop the pan for a few more years.
.....
p.p.s. no one gave me the Chrysler; but I'm embaressed to admit it was all at the time I could find on the lot that I could afford to finance. HVAC blend accuators are always fouling. Chrysler really mucked up that aspect of my model year.
Thank you sir
Nice job man
so good
Good video 👴
Isn't this the same truck that was low in oil? Poor truck, it deserves a more caring owner.
good catch , same truck
@@ToyotaMaintenance Do more vids on this truck I have 2004 175k that seems to shift late 1-2 gear over 40% throttle. Any ideas?
Where are you located
Please redo this video and include torque specs and bolt sizes for everything. I was surprised because you usually include all that. Thanks
He did, 8 Newton metres for the pan, 20 for the plug.
Are you Polish?
👍 👍
thank you
toyota says you should never change the fluid what is your opinion
The fluid looses lubricity over time, no matter what magical additives they use, the heating and cooling cycles will break it down.
An 04 tundra with a dipstick ??? Really
HOLY SHIT ITS DIESEL MERCEDES
The Toyota fluid is crap.
Excellent video!