@@z-made I ran into a "problem". I printed the tuning tower file and fed the printer with the commands before. Unfortunately, there is absolutely no change between the layers. I've got a bowden extruder (Cr10s pro v1). Any recommendations? 😀
Your videos have been very helpful as I have been at this for a little over a month, one this I would love to see is a good "order" of dialing in a printer I have followed several videos including yours but only the immediate settings are mentioned and there are so many to modify I never know if I missed something. I have pressure advance tested several times on even the same roll of filament and get a different number every time and then I will flow test and it throws everything off. Currently my prints only work 2 out of 3 times at best. Thank you for your videos without them I was only getting one good print out of many. Never knew there was this much to learn on 3D printing, loving at hating it at the same time but having fun the entire time.
Hey Chris, first of all, thank you for your kind comment! second I think it's an excellent idea to make a video on step-by-step 3d printer tuning, it might take me some time though. One more thing, have you saved the pressure advance value after doing the equation in your printer config file?
Will the sonic pad still work on creality printers if you changed the control board? I have an ender 3 pro and cr 10 that I've swapped the boards out with the skr mini e3 V2.
Take this with a grain of salt, because I don't pronounce myself as being familiarized enough with using the sonic pad on the skr mini e3 V2, to tell you definitively if you can or not however! The skr mini e3 V2 is officially supported by klipper, and as far as I know on the sonic pad as well, however, there is a slightly different process for flashing the sonic pad on the skr mini e3 V2, I found a video by creality on how to do it linked here "drive.google.com/file/d/1clfsG1j02ytYVg-xbYXzW24mpHRieRpI/view " I hope this helps
Thank you for making this video, it explains a lot. But in the literature online they show measuring from the bottom of the base layer, whereas you measured from the top of it. Do you think it would make that much of a difference, if any?
Hey there Aphelion, first of all, thank you, second, I may have miss understood your question, but I measured the tuning tower from the bottom of the print as stated in klippers instructions,
Just got my E3 S1 Pro with the Sonic Pad a couple of weeks ago. I'm a total novice to 3D printing in general so this was very helpful. I'm in the middle of a very long print right now but I'm definitely going to be trying this out tonight. Thanks man, great video!
printing the original house build and then doing the second one after pressure advance tuning you said you printed it at 150mms and achieved good results.... do you also need to change anything else in cura slicer settings? im struggling to work out what i need to do to achieve better speeds after tuning ( i've done pressure advance/ movement parameters and i've also done resonance compensation) but now im lost on what to do after
First of all, it depends on your printer, extruder, hot end, and nosel, so take this with a grain of salt... but I find that what works best for me is, if you raise the print speed in increments of 50 mms and the acceleration in increments of 100 mms, until you find the limit of your printer and filament combo that tends to work most effectively, I hope this helps
Hi, 19mm was my best corner so I got the value of 0.095 (Direct Drive). I put that in the PA tab and then RESTART command do I need to put that value back into the PA as it changed after the restart to 0 or is that just the Klipper Zeroing 0.095 as the new value? Thanks in advance.
@Z-Made I'm using the sonic pad on the ender 5 s1 with prusa slicer. I went into the sonic pad Web interface as seen in your video. Not sure about macro (sorry not too experienced). I put the commands in first thenI ran the test, input the PA value on the web interface that I got from the calculation after test and then entered restart in the command console of the Web interface but the value went back to 0. Is there anything I'm missing. Thank you for the response and the video explaining so far :)
Hey there halfapineapple (awesome name😂) sorry about the delay in my response, all you gotta do is put the pressure advance value you got from the calculation into your printer config file, just in case, based on the value you wrote in the comment this is the command "pressure_advance = 0.095" I hope this helps
@Z-Made haha thank you, and yeah thanks I will try it. It sometimes remembers the PA sometimes wipes it back to 0. Was manually typing on the left PA slider. I will try console next time. Prints are coming out a lot tidier, you legend!
Im going to use your way, but im going to do an expiriment first. Im gonna guess. My printer is fast so im going to start with your setting and print a small calibration cube, if it works it work, if not i adjust. My printer is pretty fast so im willing to do this 3 or 4 times before doing it the right way just to see if i can guess it. Thanks for the video.
@@z-made in conclusion, dont guess. Just do the math, you wont guess correctly lol. I tried guessing twice and it wasnt even close. My intention was to see if a ballpark generic setting would work, it does not.
Hey man, love your videos, you've been really helpful !! May i suggest one thing, when you give formulas, if you could put them on screen it would really help :) thanks again, keep up the good work !
Hi, thank you for the video, very informative. Just wanted to mention, if I understand properly by the equation you should calculate (0.2+7.79)x0.005 since your initial layer was 0.2mm and you measured from the top of the feet. Or there is something I do not understand. Thank you. Which is essentially same 0.04
Hey Fortifor, Thank you for the comment, I started the print from layer zero, therefore when measuring the tunning tower from the bottom, the first part of the equation is zero, in other words (0+7.79)x0.005 which comes out to 0.03895 I hope I was able to help😊 this is a link directly to klippers pressure advance page just in case www.klipper3d.org/Pressure_Advance.html
@@z-made ohh yeah, everything is perfect. All calibration has been done. Resonance, pressure advance(funny I have magnets which have holes lining up with this acceleromete holes, and found little 3Mx 16 screws in my worshop and nuts) all perfect. Thank you for asking my friend. Andrzej
@@z-made I meant for vibration compensation I used those magnets so I could screw one to the little accelerometer and placed another ones next to it to make sure that nothing would move at high pitch. Also thanks to your video with using magnets regarding resonance reading. So I did it a bit different way but the idea and explanation was enough for it. Thank you again and keep doing good work buddy.
Hey there c0mputer😊, first of all, thank you for your comments, second sure I can explain how to get that picture, if you're using Cura slicer, you just have to go to the extensions tab up top (next to file/edit/settings/etc), pick "post-processing", "modify g-code", "add a script", then pick the "create thumbnail" option, then choose 200 by 200 px and you're done, now cura will generate a thumbnail for you every time you slice and save your print, and it will show up in your sonic pad and in the browser, please let me know if this helps
@@z-made Thanks for the reply. I'm using Cura but this isn't working for me, I'm actually using Creality's version Creality Slicer which is a Cura clone. It's identical but its most recent version is based off Cura 4.8 so I don't see the Create Thumbnail script. It's all good though, I appreciate the help. It's really a minor thing, I can live without the thumbnail. By the way, I'm using the Creality clone because real Cura keeps crashing on my Mac and when it doesn't crash it's insanely buggy. Mouse stops registering clicks, can't scroll sometimes, the Preview tab after slicing doesn't show anything on the build plate, etc. It's horrible!
@@z-made Update: FYI in case you get asked this same question. I did get the thumbnail to work...sort of. It shows in the Sonic Pad but it's upside down, haha! In the Printer Settings in Cura if you click on Connect Moonraker > Upload tab > UFP with Thumbnail, that got it to work. But again, it's upside down and it doesn't show up in my browser in Moonraker, just on the Sonic Pad print status screen. I find it funny so I might just leave it.
@@c0mputer Oh boy, I didn't know cura had so many problems on the mac, I'm sorry to hear that, I'm going to try to look into it and see if I can maybe find a solution
Good info in this video, only thing I can say is that the volume between your voice and the music should be a bit closer, the music ends up being extremely loud. Only saying that because you said you're new to youtube, just a friendly tip to help you have high quality stuff
A side question: my Sonic Pad doesn’t have an IP address in the WiFi menus and Creality tech support tells me that the Pad cannot be controlled via a web browser. ??? Can you give me some guidance on this?
Sure Wayward_Murf, I hope I can help, first of all, is your pad connected to the internet? second is it updated to the current firmware? and third, did creality give you a specific reason they told you that you can't get an IP address for your pad?
@@z-made Thank you for your reply. Yes, it was (is) connected to the internet. For whatever reason (I made no changes) when I disconnected and reconnected the WiFi - the IP address appeared and I could access it via my web browser. Oddly, it will only recognize the 2.4G network and not the 5G? Still, the online chat support from Creality said that web browser control would be a future capability. ?? Well, uh, it works for me like you have shown. Anyway, thank you for your time and information. I am saving and reviewing your videos for my education.
I'm a bit confused. At around 7:45, after entering your Pressure Advance number, you run the $ RESTART command and it clears out the number you entered and sets it back to 0. Even though it is showing 0, is it still set internally to the number you entered (in your case .04 mm)? Or, if I want to keep using the setting I came up with, do I have to enter that number before every print (since it goes back to 0 every time I run the $ RESTART command or do a print)?
Hey ensoniqthehedgehog, if you want the value for pressure advance to be updated to your printer config file it needs to be updated manually, I apologize that I wasn't clear about that critical point in the video, I'm new at this whole youtube thing and I wrongly assumed that people would understand that the value needs to be entered manually in the printer config file under the extruder section Input Pressure Advance Value in Klipper Open the printer.cfg file from the configuration section. Navigate to the extruder settings and input the pressure_advance: command at the end of the extruder section. Save and Restart firmware. The Klipper firmware will exit the test mode and use the set pressure advance value in future prints. I apologize for the confusion
Just in case this helps somebody else, I followed this guide to the T, but after not understanding why it didn't help at all, I realized that even though I most definitely input the pressure advance value and saved and restarted, the setting in fact did not save. I had to manually add the value to the printer.cfg file, because in the printer.cfg file the pressure_advance setting was still zero. After modifying the setting directly and saving / restarting, the setting stuck. So, it may be a good idea for everyone that does to simply verify after saving and restarting that your pressure advance setting is actually what you desired to set it to.
Hey TheEthanRivera85, so I would suggest you try upping your print speed in your slicer, this is a video I made that I think might help you if you're using Cura, please let me know how it goes th-cam.com/video/_Xqm1zod1yo/w-d-xo.html
@Z-Made so what I think my issue was I just changed the top box of the print speed and not the other options like for the walls and such. After it was all said and done I was able to print an xyz cube in 7 minutes
i tried to enjoy the b-roll of the difference at the end, but all i saw was the bad lighting, the low framerate, jerky hand AND camera movements, and the fact you whizzed through the comparison all in just 10 seconds :(
@@z-made no worries, just take your time, as i sensed a little impatience at that part, so remember your intention E.G. you want to show the viewers the difference between two prints. For someone playing "spot the difference", they need time and things not to move too much. For this, you want to keep the camera still, and be as slow, and steady, as possible, with the subject (the model). If you're going to manually hold it by hand, do your best to keep it still for a few seconds, then rotate to show other sides for a similar period. When it comes to showing the 2nd model for comparison, you can either do it the same way again, so it shows in series, or maybe show them at the same time by stacking the model and rotating them both to see them at the same time (i know this only works if the model is stackable) :) The frame rate was an issue and didn't help matters, not sure what the reason was there, maybe you wanted to squeeze the footage in without making the video too long ?? The part just before the B-Roll, where you show the model, has bad lighting, with too much shadowing to be able to see to detail you want viewers to enjoy, so be aware of lighting your model well. I enjoyed the rest of your video, sorry if i didn't mention it before, good luck in your next videos :)
Great video, just got my sonic pad and this helped so much, thank you. One little question, how do you get the picture of what your printing? I see when you are ready to print you have preview of the tower. How do you get that? Thanks Again.
Hey there Nick P, first of all, thank you, second sure I can explain how to get that picture, if you're using Cura slicer, you just have to go to the extensions tab up top (next to file/edit/settings/etc), pick "post-processing", "modify g-code", "add a script", then pick the "create thumbnail" option, then choose 200 by 200 px and you're done, now cura will generate a thumbnail for you every time you slice and save your print, and it will show up in your sonic pad and in the browser, I hope this helps, let me know if it does, and if if you think I should make a short video on it?
@@z-made that's great thank you. Yeah a short video would help people. I would have had no idea how to do it. I paid a company $100 just to set my pad up. I have an Ender 6 with a BL Touch. It does not support that. They had to do something and change something to make it work. Some of us need help. Videos like yours are so helpful you have no idea. Thank you again. I'm subscribed from here on out.
Hands down, the best how-to video for pressure advance on TH-cam. Thank you! This takes alot of the confusion about it out of the equation.
Im so happy you liked it, and I'm thrilled that you feel that way, thank you Videos, I appreciate it
fully AGREE!
I now know a ton more about Klipper than I did previously. Thanks!
Your more than welcome 😊
Excited to see upcoming challenges offering value. Thank you
You're so welcome!
Great, showing the before and after, is really valuable.
Hey Quetzalcoalt! I'm very happy to see you back! thank you for your kind comment and I'm happy you found some value in my video!
very good videos. clear instructions, everything in the description. no bla bla, just tada! great!
Hey Klaus, Thank you, I truly appreciate your kind comment, and I'm happy you found some value in my video
@@z-made I ran into a "problem". I printed the tuning tower file and fed the printer with the commands before. Unfortunately, there is absolutely no change between the layers. I've got a bowden extruder (Cr10s pro v1). Any recommendations? 😀
super helpful for newbies like me so thank you so much 👍
Hey there razor burn, thank you, im so happy i had a chance to help😊
awesome got my ender 5 s1 with sonic pad today. gonna try this out thanks man
Hey turion b, that's awesome! let me know how it goes!😊
Just got my Sonic Pad today, kinda excited and terrified at the same time haha. But these videos helps, clear, easy to follow. Subscribed
Thank you, Glad I could help!
Awesome video man!! supper clear and straight forward, Love it!!
Thank you, I appreciate it
Your videos have been very helpful as I have been at this for a little over a month, one this I would love to see is a good "order" of dialing in a printer I have followed several videos including yours but only the immediate settings are mentioned and there are so many to modify I never know if I missed something. I have pressure advance tested several times on even the same roll of filament and get a different number every time and then I will flow test and it throws everything off. Currently my prints only work 2 out of 3 times at best. Thank you for your videos without them I was only getting one good print out of many. Never knew there was this much to learn on 3D printing, loving at hating it at the same time but having fun the entire time.
Hey Chris, first of all, thank you for your kind comment! second I think it's an excellent idea to make a video on step-by-step 3d printer tuning, it might take me some time though. One more thing, have you saved the pressure advance value after doing the equation in your printer config file?
Good luck with the house 👍
Thanks 👍
Will the sonic pad still work on creality printers if you changed the control board? I have an ender 3 pro and cr 10 that I've swapped the boards out with the skr mini e3 V2.
Take this with a grain of salt, because I don't pronounce myself as being familiarized enough with using the sonic pad on the skr mini e3 V2, to tell you definitively if you can or not however! The skr mini e3 V2 is officially supported by klipper, and as far as I know on the sonic pad as well, however, there is a slightly different process for flashing the sonic pad on the skr mini e3 V2, I found a video by creality on how to do it linked here "drive.google.com/file/d/1clfsG1j02ytYVg-xbYXzW24mpHRieRpI/view " I hope this helps
Thank you for making this video, it explains a lot. But in the literature online they show measuring from the bottom of the base layer, whereas you measured from the top of it. Do you think it would make that much of a difference, if any?
Hey there Aphelion, first of all, thank you, second, I may have miss understood your question, but I measured the tuning tower from the bottom of the print as stated in klippers instructions,
Just got my E3 S1 Pro with the Sonic Pad a couple of weeks ago. I'm a total novice to 3D printing in general so this was very helpful. I'm in the middle of a very long print right now but I'm definitely going to be trying this out tonight. Thanks man, great video!
Hey there All Things Mechanical, thank you, I appreciate your input, first off welcome😊 , second let me know how it goes
printing the original house build and then doing the second one after pressure advance tuning you said you printed it at 150mms and achieved good results.... do you also need to change anything else in cura slicer settings? im struggling to work out what i need to do to achieve better speeds after tuning ( i've done pressure advance/ movement parameters and i've also done resonance compensation) but now im lost on what to do after
First of all, it depends on your printer, extruder, hot end, and nosel, so take this with a grain of salt... but I find that what works best for me is, if you raise the print speed in increments of 50 mms and the acceleration in increments of 100 mms, until you find the limit of your printer and filament combo that tends to work most effectively, I hope this helps
@@z-made that makes sense because of limitations in flow rates from the nozzle, I will try this out thankyou!
for sure man happy to help😊
Good job man, you have a great approach , not all that BS "voice" like a news caster. Just straight info! Keep up the vids subed!
Im so happy you liked it, thanks for the vote of confadence❤
Ricky Impey also does a great series for the set up and tuning if the sonic pad. I found his series very helpful.
I'll check it out!
Nice work
Thank you! Cheers!
Hi, 19mm was my best corner so I got the value of 0.095 (Direct Drive). I put that in the PA tab and then RESTART command do I need to put that value back into the PA as it changed after the restart to 0 or is that just the Klipper Zeroing 0.095 as the new value?
Thanks in advance.
What UI are you using? Have you changed the macro for your start print?
@Z-Made I'm using the sonic pad on the ender 5 s1 with prusa slicer. I went into the sonic pad Web interface as seen in your video. Not sure about macro (sorry not too experienced). I put the commands in first thenI ran the test, input the PA value on the web interface that I got from the calculation after test and then entered restart in the command console of the Web interface but the value went back to 0. Is there anything I'm missing. Thank you for the response and the video explaining so far :)
Hey there halfapineapple (awesome name😂) sorry about the delay in my response, all you gotta do is put the pressure advance value you got from the calculation into your printer config file, just in case, based on the value you wrote in the comment this is the command "pressure_advance = 0.095" I hope this helps
@Z-Made haha thank you, and yeah thanks I will try it. It sometimes remembers the PA sometimes wipes it back to 0. Was manually typing on the left PA slider. I will try console next time. Prints are coming out a lot tidier, you legend!
@@LostContentScar Awesome! let me know how it goes😄
thanks for this.
Thank you, i appreciate your input😊
Im going to use your way, but im going to do an expiriment first. Im gonna guess. My printer is fast so im going to start with your setting and print a small calibration cube, if it works it work, if not i adjust. My printer is pretty fast so im willing to do this 3 or 4 times before doing it the right way just to see if i can guess it. Thanks for the video.
Hey Andrewut7y A, that sounds like an interesting experiment, please let me know how it works out
@@z-made in conclusion, dont guess. Just do the math, you wont guess correctly lol. I tried guessing twice and it wasnt even close. My intention was to see if a ballpark generic setting would work, it does not.
@@andrewut7ya511 Lol, well sometimes you just gotta try, I get it! thanks for letting me know😊
You laid this out super simple! Thanks. I have a task to do tomoorow! You just got a new sub bro!
Hey Cereal Killr, thank you for the vote of confidence! I'm happy I was able to provide you with some value😊
Just wondering, i set the print speed to 100mm/s, but the sonic pad says im only printing at 50mm/s. any advice of is that normal?
Hey man, love your videos, you've been really helpful !! May i suggest one thing, when you give formulas, if you could put them on screen it would really help :) thanks again, keep up the good work !
Thanks for the tip!
Hi, thank you for the video, very informative. Just wanted to mention, if I understand properly by the equation you should calculate (0.2+7.79)x0.005 since your initial layer was 0.2mm and you measured from the top of the feet. Or there is something I do not understand. Thank you. Which is essentially same 0.04
Hey Fortifor, Thank you for the comment, I started the print from layer zero, therefore when measuring the tunning tower from the bottom, the first part of the equation is zero, in other words (0+7.79)x0.005 which comes out to 0.03895 I hope I was able to help😊 this is a link directly to klippers pressure advance page just in case www.klipper3d.org/Pressure_Advance.html
Hey Fortifor, just wanted to know if everything worked out for you?
@@z-made ohh yeah, everything is perfect. All calibration has been done. Resonance, pressure advance(funny I have magnets which have holes lining up with this acceleromete holes, and found little 3Mx 16 screws in my worshop and nuts) all perfect. Thank you for asking my friend. Andrzej
@@z-made I meant for vibration compensation I used those magnets so I could screw one to the little accelerometer and placed another ones next to it to make sure that nothing would move at high pitch. Also thanks to your video with using magnets regarding resonance reading. So I did it a bit different way but the idea and explanation was enough for it. Thank you again and keep doing good work buddy.
@@fortifor5410 Sure! no problem, happy to hear, happy printing 😊
I notice you also have a thumbnail of your gcode file in console. Did you do anything to get this? I don't have a thumbnail.
Hey there c0mputer😊, first of all, thank you for your comments, second sure I can explain how to get that picture, if you're using Cura slicer, you just have to go to the extensions tab up top (next to file/edit/settings/etc), pick "post-processing", "modify g-code", "add a script", then pick the "create thumbnail" option, then choose 200 by 200 px and you're done, now cura will generate a thumbnail for you every time you slice and save your print, and it will show up in your sonic pad and in the browser, please let me know if this helps
@@z-made Thanks for the reply. I'm using Cura but this isn't working for me, I'm actually using Creality's version Creality Slicer which is a Cura clone. It's identical but its most recent version is based off Cura 4.8 so I don't see the Create Thumbnail script. It's all good though, I appreciate the help. It's really a minor thing, I can live without the thumbnail.
By the way, I'm using the Creality clone because real Cura keeps crashing on my Mac and when it doesn't crash it's insanely buggy. Mouse stops registering clicks, can't scroll sometimes, the Preview tab after slicing doesn't show anything on the build plate, etc. It's horrible!
@@z-made Update: FYI in case you get asked this same question. I did get the thumbnail to work...sort of. It shows in the Sonic Pad but it's upside down, haha! In the Printer Settings in Cura if you click on Connect Moonraker > Upload tab > UFP with Thumbnail, that got it to work. But again, it's upside down and it doesn't show up in my browser in Moonraker, just on the Sonic Pad print status screen. I find it funny so I might just leave it.
@@c0mputer Oh boy, I didn't know cura had so many problems on the mac, I'm sorry to hear that, I'm going to try to look into it and see if I can maybe find a solution
@@c0mputer thanks for letting me know, that's a crazy bug
Good info in this video, only thing I can say is that the volume between your voice and the music should be a bit closer, the music ends up being extremely loud. Only saying that because you said you're new to youtube, just a friendly tip to help you have high quality stuff
Thanks for the tips!
A side question: my Sonic Pad doesn’t have an IP address in the WiFi menus and Creality tech support tells me that the Pad cannot be controlled via a web browser. ??? Can you give me some guidance on this?
Sure Wayward_Murf, I hope I can help, first of all, is your pad connected to the internet? second is it updated to the current firmware? and third, did creality give you a specific reason they told you that you can't get an IP address for your pad?
hey Wayward_Murf, did you figure out what's going on? Mabey try checking out this page, it might help www.klipper3d.org/API_Server.html
@@z-made Thank you for your reply. Yes, it was (is) connected to the internet. For whatever reason (I made no changes) when I disconnected and reconnected the WiFi - the IP address appeared and I could access it via my web browser. Oddly, it will only recognize the 2.4G network and not the 5G? Still, the online chat support from Creality said that web browser control would be a future capability. ?? Well, uh, it works for me like you have shown. Anyway, thank you for your time and information. I am saving and reviewing your videos for my education.
@@z-made whoa...I am saving that page, but that kind of intel is above my skill level. Thank you !
I'm a bit confused. At around 7:45, after entering your Pressure Advance number, you run the $ RESTART command and it clears out the number you entered and sets it back to 0.
Even though it is showing 0, is it still set internally to the number you entered (in your case .04 mm)?
Or, if I want to keep using the setting I came up with, do I have to enter that number before every print (since it goes back to 0 every time I run the $ RESTART command or do a print)?
Hey ensoniqthehedgehog, if you want the value for pressure advance to be updated to your printer config file it needs to be updated manually, I apologize that I wasn't clear about that critical point in the video, I'm new at this whole youtube thing and I wrongly assumed that people would understand that the value needs to be entered manually in the printer config file under the extruder section Input Pressure Advance Value in Klipper
Open the printer.cfg file from the configuration section.
Navigate to the extruder settings and input the pressure_advance: command at the end of the extruder section.
Save and Restart firmware.
The Klipper firmware will exit the test mode and use the set pressure advance value in future prints. I apologize for the confusion
@@z-made Hey, no problem. Thanks for the reply. It's a really well done video, it got me to subscribe to your channel.
@@ensoniqthehedgehog Ya of course! Thank you, I appreciate your understanding, 😊
Just in case this helps somebody else, I followed this guide to the T, but after not understanding why it didn't help at all, I realized that even though I most definitely input the pressure advance value and saved and restarted, the setting in fact did not save. I had to manually add the value to the printer.cfg file, because in the printer.cfg file the pressure_advance setting was still zero. After modifying the setting directly and saving / restarting, the setting stuck. So, it may be a good idea for everyone that does to simply verify after saving and restarting that your pressure advance setting is actually what you desired to set it to.
thanks for the feedback Brian Field
be handy to have close up pics of the difference
Just tried doing this. Followed all the steps, but noticed my print speed never went above 50mm/s...
Hey TheEthanRivera85, so I would suggest you try upping your print speed in your slicer, this is a video I made that I think might help you if you're using Cura, please let me know how it goes th-cam.com/video/_Xqm1zod1yo/w-d-xo.html
Hey TheEthanRivera85, just wanted to know if you solved the issue?
@Z-Made so what I think my issue was I just changed the top box of the print speed and not the other options like for the walls and such. After it was all said and done I was able to print an xyz cube in 7 minutes
@@TheEthanRivera85 That's awesome! I'm glad to hear it
i tried to enjoy the b-roll of the difference at the end, but all i saw was the bad lighting, the low framerate, jerky hand AND camera movements, and the fact you whizzed through the comparison all in just 10 seconds :(
thank you for the input, I'm new at youtube and cinematography, and I'm trying to improve the production value, one step at a time
@@z-made no worries, just take your time, as i sensed a little impatience at that part, so remember your intention E.G. you want to show the viewers the difference between two prints. For someone playing "spot the difference", they need time and things not to move too much.
For this, you want to keep the camera still, and be as slow, and steady, as possible, with the subject (the model).
If you're going to manually hold it by hand, do your best to keep it still for a few seconds, then rotate to show other sides for a similar period.
When it comes to showing the 2nd model for comparison, you can either do it the same way again, so it shows in series, or maybe show them at the same time by stacking the model and rotating them both to see them at the same time (i know this only works if the model is stackable) :)
The frame rate was an issue and didn't help matters, not sure what the reason was there, maybe you wanted to squeeze the footage in without making the video too long ??
The part just before the B-Roll, where you show the model, has bad lighting, with too much shadowing to be able to see to detail you want viewers to enjoy, so be aware of lighting your model well.
I enjoyed the rest of your video, sorry if i didn't mention it before, good luck in your next videos :)
@@cjjuszczak Thanks, i appreciate it😊
Great video, just got my sonic pad and this helped so much, thank you. One little question, how do you get the picture of what your printing? I see when you are ready to print you have preview of the tower. How do you get that? Thanks Again.
Hey there Nick P, first of all, thank you, second sure I can explain how to get that picture, if you're using Cura slicer, you just have to go to the extensions tab up top (next to file/edit/settings/etc), pick "post-processing", "modify g-code", "add a script", then pick the "create thumbnail" option, then choose 200 by 200 px and you're done, now cura will generate a thumbnail for you every time you slice and save your print, and it will show up in your sonic pad and in the browser, I hope this helps, let me know if it does, and if if you think I should make a short video on it?
@@z-made that's great thank you. Yeah a short video would help people. I would have had no idea how to do it. I paid a company $100 just to set my pad up. I have an Ender 6 with a BL Touch. It does not support that. They had to do something and change something to make it work. Some of us need help. Videos like yours are so helpful you have no idea. Thank you again. I'm subscribed from here on out.
@@nickp385 Awsom! I'm so happy to hear that😊
@@z-made anyway to send you an email on something about the Sonic Pad?
spent way too long watching the tower print and not enough time on the, "put it into the config file"
'PromoSM'
Hey Sterling, I'm sorry i don't understand
Far too complicated to make this fly
Hey Marcin, the truth is, it sounds a lot more complex than it is in reality, if you want some help just let me know😊
sorry can not watch with all the bad video cuts & jumps
I hear you David, I'm new to youtube and cinematography in general, and I'm trying to improve one video at a time