BTR Justin i believe you should. The dealer is a rip off. With these fords the motorcraft filters are a must. All diesel truck owners should be able to change their own oil.
I agree man. I pay a shop to do it anyway because I'm lazy but I do the fuel filter myself. It never hurts to know things and how to do things with a vehicle you drive daily and own.
Dude, I want to commend you on the effort in this video. I wish everyone can be as clear and concise as you. Seriously A+, you earned my sub for sure!!
I just did the same to my new to me 2000 F250 7.3... Your video was very helpful. I went from a Prius to my truck. Lol..I don't even have a trailer or any interested in pulling anything. I just love the old girl and how they look and sound. I was lucky enough to find a good one. One owner deal with 228k. Fully stock. Love it.
Nice, glad the video(s) helped! These trucks are truly becoming icons of a bygone era, kind of cool to experience them in a way. I also drove a tiny little Chevy Spark EV with this truck as the second vehicle, quite the contrast 😆
Thanks for replying! Looking at replacing the ICP pressure sensor & Cam shaft position sensors. I did the fuel filter, oil change, transmission filter/oil & GPR.. The truck is running great! Belts look good..Any more sensors I need to replace or be on the lookout? Thanks,
The ICP is a common one, just did that on mine, so you are good there. Unless your seeing any kind of issue I would just run it. You can get into quite the rabbit hole if you want to do "preventative" type maintenance.
Great instructional video. I have a 2002 E-450 Shuttle Bus that I'm converting into an RV. This maintenance video gives me the confidence to do these tasks on my own. Thanks!
watched the oil change segment, bought my 2000 F350 with 119K miles 6 months ago. love it. My first Diesel. Tips were great. im keeping this truck and will be looking for water separator an what else I need to maintain this vehicle,, Thanks
The lever on the back of the housing is for draining water, periodically you should open it and drain whatever is on the bottom, be it water or debris. I leave a hose connected to the pipe and just tuck it into the frame. You dont want to tap the fuel filter on the sides of the housing like that as you can dislodge debris and drop it right back into the bowl. Clean fuel is on the center and dirty is the outside of the pleats. The fuel you pour back into the tank will most probably have water in the bottom along with debris, so dont pour it all back in. Every second oil change I change the fuel filter. While synthetic oil is great, most diesels make soot in the oil, and the soot is what kills the oil and causes wear, unless you have some type of oil by pass filter set up like a fs 2500 I would just stay with regular oil and change it on a schedule compatible with your driving and mileage.
Thanks for the good info! I thought about the water in the fuel bowl and pouring it back in after the fact. I figured it's going to get filtered again anyways but good to know.
Tip for ya, a swivel headed oil filter wrench can also be used in removing the fuel filter cap. When doing the turbo might as well replace the up pipes
Hey great video. I'm new to the powerstroke and doing my first oil change on it. Wanted to know if it's recommended to replace the oil in the hpop. I keep seeing mixed reviews on it.
Thanks for the comment! In my other 7.3 oil change video I do show how to change the hpop oil. I've seen mixed opinions on whether it is beneficial to change hpop oil too. My POV is that it can't hurt to change it, if anything, just to learn how it is done and where the hpop is. But, definitely not something you need to do regularly. I did it once before and haven't done it since.
@@TheBTRGarage thanks for the reply Justin. Sounds good I'll prob do the same. I don't know the history of the truck so I'll change it today this way I know it's done and moving forward I'll skip it a few oil changes. 👍
Yep! Still using exactly the same products as in this video. Just wrapped another oil and fuel filter change at 180k miles. Did another Archoil treatment at 175k 👍🏻
I've got that same truck. How is that full syn oil working out for you? I have stayed with the dino oil and would be concerned with leaking with the syn in such an old truck. Fuel filter is changed every 3rd oil change.
The oil works fine as far as I can tell. Several thousand miles since this video was made. I will switch back to 15w40 though since I moved to a warmer climate. I change my fuel filter each oil change just cause it's cheap and easy maintenance.
My only concern is the fumoto valve sticking down underneath-being a target to get snapped off-but I’m going to do one anyway, as I hate the oil down the hand/arm action. Thanks for doing this-subscribed!
Some say it is pointless, some say it's a simple thing to do, so why not. I don't think it is something you would do every single oil change...but once every long while, why not :)
Just purchased a 1999 7.3. I live in Massachusetts and I’m about to do my first oil change. Do you recommend the 5w40 synthetic over the 15w40 cause of the colder temps approaching?
Been changing my 7.3 oil for years and never poked a hole in the bottom of the filter to drain it! And never filled the new one before screwing it on! Will do those from now on - Thank you!! Also, have you developed any new oil leaks since changing from dino oil to synthetic? I've heard synthetic will seep in places the conventional oil does not.
Living in So Cal I use 15w40 in my 6.0 luckily walmart has rotella t4 and motorcraft oil filter. I dont use any additives just change it every 5k miles or 1 a year. I also use the same rotella in my boat, quads and yard equipment
The additives definitely helped, but did not cure the issues 100%. I found the real culprit, the GPR, and have a follow up video that shows that problem, if you want to check it out. th-cam.com/video/AJ3dP70mQAA/w-d-xo.html
I've been running T6 15-40 in NY year round. Was just thinking before I do my oil change this week if I should use 5-40. Afraid the small leaks will get worse tho lol
might wanna get shell rotella t6 synthetic for my next oil change on my 7.3 should I go syntgetic or conventional? does it matter? is conventional better?
Which is better will depend on who you ask, it can be a hotly debated topic :) I have always used the Rotella T5 or T6 which are synthetic blend (T5) and fully synthetic (T6). You can't go wrong with those and are recommended by many for these diesel engines.
@@TheBTRGarage ok i might as well try synthetic for my upcoming oil change on my 99 ford 7.3 with 272k miles. 5th owner. i will put a 3/4 full bottle of that hotshot stiction eliminator in there as well. tyvm for making the videos. even tho synthetic will cost more, you get what you pay for;) ;) also what about a high quality oil filter?
Auto another thing I came across today was there is a small drain plug up by the fuel filter with 2 qt of oil that never gets changed thru the oil pan that has to be vacuumed out and refilled the oil goes directly to the injectors
@@TheBTRGarage My bypass filter setup also has a pre-oiler pump. When you turn the key on to heat the glo plugs the pump starts circulating oil before the engine turns over. I live in Alaska and cold starts are very hard on engines, especially diesels.
@@akquicksilver do you have a favorite brand bypass filter set up or pre oiler pump? I just bought my first diesel for my bee business and Indiana can get some cold temps with some wicked winds. I expect a block heater to be a big advantage for me.
@@michaelbarrett1914 Like I stated previously, I use the Amsoil bypass set up with the pre-oiler pump. I also use the Amsoil filters on the setup. Yes, a block heater will make a huge difference for cold starting and reduce the wear and tear on the cylinders. I do highly recommend the pre-oiler system.
@@michaelbarrett1914 Like I stated, I use the Amsoil bypass filter set up with the pre-oiler, I also use the Amsoil brand filters. I would highly recommend the pre-oiler setup and the block heater would make a huge difference with your cold starts and engine wear.
I am not too happy with T6 5w40. It drinks the oil to the tune of about a quart every 500 mi. The truck only has 60k miles. Not sure what brand next. I am thinking Schaffer’s 15w40.
I felt like the stiction eliminator made the truck run noticeably smoother. But that could have just been the oil change and the fact that there is a lot more Stiction Eliminator that goes into the truck vs Arch Oil. I'm sure both products do their job well enough without any sort of "feeling" in how the engine runs.
good video my friend I, have one 7.3 F350 2001 Super dury and the problem loses power I, hope you cant help me I , send my like 👍🏼 bless you America 🇺🇸 and you family from Guatemala 🇬🇹 here and NJ
@@TheBTRGarage i hear they start better in the winter with the T6 but then I hear not to run T6 because the different weight oil. So I just run the T5, works ok in the winter I guess but im not below freezing all the time. Do you let your glow plugs warm up for the full 2 minutes or do you wait for the light to go out. Mine starts better if I wait.
The recommended interval is every 15k miles (every 3rd oil change). Some will say, on higher mileage engines, to do it every oil change because it's cheap and easy. Basically don't go longer than 15k miles, do it at 10k or 5k if you feel inclined.
Dang you're quick! It looks like it might be, I noticed that too when changing the oil. However, I had not lost much oil. I cleaned up the area to see if more oil shows up at the next oil change. Good eye!
Is there fuel in the bowl? 😁 Sounds like the tube may be gunked up, also make sure you take the lid off the bowl (air needs to displace the fuel draining or it will vacuum).
how come all these 7.3 fuel filter videos all show a different filter and cap coming off the truck and not ford? they all take an aftermarket out and put a motorcraft in... why all these aftermarkets and where do you get caps if you dont have them or you just want the same filter your taking out? i dont know whats in it yet but i dont want to be assed out when i do it...
The non-OEM filters are probably what's easily available at your local auto store, or auto shop doing the oil changes. I'm sure they are cheaper and cost has something to do with it. I think you'd have to go to the dealership for OEM.
This was my question exactly. I found DORMAN Part # 904-203 fuel filter cap on Amazon for $15. So now I can use a Motorcraft filter and replace my Napa all in one!
I had to do the quarter trick on my 99 7.3. After I drove it a couple times. Mine seem to have more response with the fixes I have done to it. That's cool it went away.
Wix fuel filters for my 1996 Ford F350 Turbodiesel have “gone out the roof” in price in less than a year, especially Wix filters. $70.00 or so at O’Reilly’s.
Remember everyone. Do not mix fuel filters and fuel filter covers! They are not the same! I personally run Motorcraft, if you run NAPA, or WIX, you have to use their cover!!! If not it will bypass the filter, because the filters are different sizes.
If you have an old diesel truck, you should probably know how to do these maintenance tasks. *Agree? Yes or no?*
BTR Justin i believe you should. The dealer is a rip off. With these fords the motorcraft filters are a must. All diesel truck owners should be able to change their own oil.
Not really if you have extra $20 -30 :) any shop will do oil change for you.
I agree man. I pay a shop to do it anyway because I'm lazy but I do the fuel filter myself. It never hurts to know things and how to do things with a vehicle you drive daily and own.
No comment but yes absolutely I just want to know how you got the bold letters?
In the comment text? You just add a * around what you want to bold.
Dude, I want to commend you on the effort in this video. I wish everyone can be as clear and concise as you. Seriously A+, you earned my sub for sure!!
Thanks a lot! Glad the video was helpful :)
I just did the same to my new to me 2000 F250 7.3... Your video was very helpful. I went from a Prius to my truck. Lol..I don't even have a trailer or any interested in pulling anything. I just love the old girl and how they look and sound. I was lucky enough to find a good one. One owner deal with 228k. Fully stock. Love it.
Nice, glad the video(s) helped! These trucks are truly becoming icons of a bygone era, kind of cool to experience them in a way. I also drove a tiny little Chevy Spark EV with this truck as the second vehicle, quite the contrast 😆
Thanks for replying! Looking at replacing the ICP pressure sensor & Cam shaft position sensors. I did the fuel filter, oil change, transmission filter/oil & GPR.. The truck is running great! Belts look good..Any more sensors I need to replace or be on the lookout?
Thanks,
The ICP is a common one, just did that on mine, so you are good there. Unless your seeing any kind of issue I would just run it. You can get into quite the rabbit hole if you want to do "preventative" type maintenance.
Great instructional video. I have a 2002 E-450 Shuttle Bus that I'm converting into an RV. This maintenance video gives me the confidence to do these tasks on my own. Thanks!
Thanks, glad the video is helpful!
Great video
What Archoil are you using ?
I have a 1999 7.3L that I would like to try the Archoil product .
Thanks! It's the Archoil AR9100 : amzn.to/2E3ELuR
watched the oil change segment, bought my 2000 F350 with 119K miles 6 months ago. love it. My first Diesel. Tips were great. im keeping this truck and will be looking for water separator an what else I need to maintain this vehicle,, Thanks
Congrats on the new (to you) F350! Glad the video was helpful :)
Best video ever. Thanks sr. Keep making more videos on 7.3 motor 👍
Thanks! More 7.3 vids coming soon!
The lever on the back of the housing is for draining water, periodically you should open it and drain whatever is on the bottom, be it water or debris. I leave a hose connected to the pipe and just tuck it into the frame. You dont want to tap the fuel filter on the sides of the housing like that as you can dislodge debris and drop it right back into the bowl. Clean fuel is on the center and dirty is the outside of the pleats. The fuel you pour back into the tank will most probably have water in the bottom along with debris, so dont pour it all back in. Every second oil change I change the fuel filter. While synthetic oil is great, most diesels make soot in the oil, and the soot is what kills the oil and causes wear, unless you have some type of oil by pass filter set up like a fs 2500 I would just stay with regular oil and change it on a schedule compatible with your driving and mileage.
Thanks for the good info! I thought about the water in the fuel bowl and pouring it back in after the fact. I figured it's going to get filtered again anyways but good to know.
Tip for ya, a swivel headed oil filter wrench can also be used in removing the fuel filter cap. When doing the turbo might as well replace the up pipes
Thanks! Didn't think about the up pipes, I'll look into that.
This is my first diesel so not familiar with the up pipes. I will look into what you are talking about.
Great video! Your videos really help me work on my 02 F250. Appreciate you sharing!
Thanks! That's why I make them, glad to help!
Ok so I learned more from this video than from all the other videos so far...
Awesome, glad the video was helpful!
Hey great video. I'm new to the powerstroke and doing my first oil change on it. Wanted to know if it's recommended to replace the oil in the hpop. I keep seeing mixed reviews on it.
Thanks for the comment! In my other 7.3 oil change video I do show how to change the hpop oil. I've seen mixed opinions on whether it is beneficial to change hpop oil too. My POV is that it can't hurt to change it, if anything, just to learn how it is done and where the hpop is. But, definitely not something you need to do regularly. I did it once before and haven't done it since.
@@TheBTRGarage thanks for the reply Justin. Sounds good I'll prob do the same. I don't know the history of the truck so I'll change it today this way I know it's done and moving forward I'll skip it a few oil changes. 👍
Let me ask you this.. 4 years later, are you still using the same oil and friction fluid? Or is there better products with proof out there?
T
Yep! Still using exactly the same products as in this video. Just wrapped another oil and fuel filter change at 180k miles. Did another Archoil treatment at 175k 👍🏻
YESSS T6 is fantastic
Yes dude! This is what I subbed for.
I've got that same truck. How is that full syn oil working out for you? I have stayed with the dino oil and would be concerned with leaking with the syn in such an old truck. Fuel filter is changed every 3rd oil change.
The oil works fine as far as I can tell. Several thousand miles since this video was made. I will switch back to 15w40 though since I moved to a warmer climate. I change my fuel filter each oil change just cause it's cheap and easy maintenance.
My only concern is the fumoto valve sticking down underneath-being a target to get snapped off-but I’m going to do one anyway, as I hate the oil down the hand/arm action. Thanks for doing this-subscribed!
If it's any consolation I've had the Fumoto valve going on 4 years now, and no issues. Unless you're off roading regularly I think it should be fine.
Why add friction modifier with the oil?
What a life saver this video was thanks a lot
Glad it helped!
The best video I have seen yet
I also suck out the oil in the hpop what do you think?
Some say it is pointless, some say it's a simple thing to do, so why not. I don't think it is something you would do every single oil change...but once every long while, why not :)
Awesome video very well conducted love to learn more on my 7.3 catch you on the bonce
Glad to help and thanks for watching!
Hi Justin can you recommend a vehicle model running on diesel for a beginner to learn about diesel engine.
Just purchased a 1999 7.3. I live in Massachusetts and I’m about to do my first oil change. Do you recommend the 5w40 synthetic over the 15w40 cause of the colder temps approaching?
The 5w-40 should be a little easier on cold start situations.
Been changing my 7.3 oil for years and never poked a hole in the bottom of the filter to drain it! And never filled the new one before screwing it on! Will do those from now on - Thank you!! Also, have you developed any new oil leaks since changing from dino oil to synthetic? I've heard synthetic will seep in places the conventional oil does not.
Sure, glad to help. No new oil leaks with synthetic for me.
Living in So Cal I use 15w40 in my 6.0 luckily walmart has rotella t4 and motorcraft oil filter. I dont use any additives just change it every 5k miles or 1 a year. I also use the same rotella in my boat, quads and yard equipment
I was using the 15w40 previously as well. I wonder if I should go back to that since I moved to Phoenix from Denver (cooler to HOT) :)
BTR Justin definitely 15-40 in Phoenix. I hear it holds up better in hot weather than 5-40.
@@pablomay28 I agree 100%
You are right, Rotella t4 15w40 is best for the 7.3 also and no need for additives. They are a waste of money.
I just purchased a one owner 03 7.3 excursion & the original owner would do Maintence thru Ford. Should I just take it to my closet Ford dealership??
Probably not a bad idea unless you are willing and able to do all the maintenance yourself.
so what were the results of the previous starting issues cured by the oil additive and fuel additive???
The additives definitely helped, but did not cure the issues 100%. I found the real culprit, the GPR, and have a follow up video that shows that problem, if you want to check it out.
th-cam.com/video/AJ3dP70mQAA/w-d-xo.html
Hey Justin what type of transmission fluid you use on your truck? Thanks George
I use the Motorcraft Mercon V.
@@TheBTRGarage Thank you buddy!
I've been running T6 15-40 in NY year round. Was just thinking before I do my oil change this week if I should use 5-40. Afraid the small leaks will get worse tho lol
I liked 5W-40 in the colder weather where I used to love. Give it a try, you can always switch back 😁
might wanna get shell rotella t6 synthetic for my next oil change on my 7.3
should I go syntgetic or conventional? does it matter? is conventional better?
Which is better will depend on who you ask, it can be a hotly debated topic :) I have always used the Rotella T5 or T6 which are synthetic blend (T5) and fully synthetic (T6). You can't go wrong with those and are recommended by many for these diesel engines.
@@TheBTRGarage ok i might as well try synthetic for my upcoming oil change on my 99 ford 7.3 with 272k miles. 5th owner. i will put a 3/4 full bottle of that hotshot stiction eliminator in there as well. tyvm for making the videos. even tho synthetic will cost more, you get what you pay for;) ;) also what about a high quality oil filter?
T-6 is full synthetic. That's the one!
I went with shell t6 full synthetic 15w40. along with the 64 oz 2 quart of the stiction eliminator. wix oil filter as well
Good choices!
I have a 2001 do the trucks come with different styles of oil pans?my oil pan raps around the oil filter
Is it automatic or manual? It might be different for the manual transmission.
Auto another thing I came across today was there is a small drain plug up by the fuel filter with 2 qt of oil that never gets changed thru the oil pan that has to be vacuumed out and refilled the oil goes directly to the injectors
Cool Video as DIY ! I would still pay someone do it :) .
Nothing wrong with that :) I'll pay my shop to do the stuff I don't want to do, or don't have time to do as well!
@@TheBTRGarage i know I have BMW diesel and I buy online oil and filter original and have it installed at shop. Save about $50-100 just like that
Neat ! thanks for the video!
Use all of that except for the oil filters. I use Amsoil bypass and full flow filters. Amazing how long they will keep your oil clean.
Interesting, I'll take a look at those. Thanks!
@@TheBTRGarage My bypass filter setup also has a pre-oiler pump. When you turn the key on to heat the glo plugs the pump starts circulating oil before the engine turns over. I live in Alaska and cold starts are very hard on engines, especially diesels.
@@akquicksilver do you have a favorite brand bypass filter set up or pre oiler pump? I just bought my first diesel for my bee business and Indiana can get some cold temps with some wicked winds. I expect a block heater to be a big advantage for me.
@@michaelbarrett1914 Like I stated previously, I use the Amsoil bypass set up with the pre-oiler pump. I also use the Amsoil filters on the setup. Yes, a block heater will make a huge difference for cold starting and reduce the wear and tear on the cylinders. I do highly recommend the pre-oiler system.
@@michaelbarrett1914 Like I stated, I use the Amsoil bypass filter set up with the pre-oiler, I also use the Amsoil brand filters. I would highly recommend the pre-oiler setup and the block heater would make a huge difference with your cold starts and engine wear.
I am not too happy with T6 5w40. It drinks the oil to the tune of about a quart every 500 mi. The truck only has 60k miles. Not sure what brand next. I am thinking Schaffer’s 15w40.
That doesn't sound like an oil problem if you're losing that much so quickly. Something else might be going.
You see any difference from the Arch Oil vs. the stiction you used in your other video?
I felt like the stiction eliminator made the truck run noticeably smoother. But that could have just been the oil change and the fact that there is a lot more Stiction Eliminator that goes into the truck vs Arch Oil. I'm sure both products do their job well enough without any sort of "feeling" in how the engine runs.
good video my friend I, have one 7.3 F350 2001 Super dury and the problem loses power I, hope you cant help me I , send my like 👍🏼 bless you America 🇺🇸 and you family from Guatemala 🇬🇹 here and NJ
Hey Justin
How are you
Have you seen the new BRZ
Doing good thanks! Yep I saw it, might do a video about it this weekend.
How many miles are you changing the fuel filter
I just do it every oil change now, so every 5k miles. Cheap, quick, and easy.
Thanks for the information
What size socket did u use to take off the fuel filter cap?
I want to say it is 20mm or 3/4" sized, I will confirm when I get home.
Good video thanks!
You're welcome, glad to help!
How did the hotshot work for your cold start issues?
It seemed to help, but not sure if it was directly from that or just the whole oil change in general.
@@TheBTRGarage i hear they start better in the winter with the T6 but then I hear not to run T6 because the different weight oil. So I just run the T5, works ok in the winter I guess but im not below freezing all the time. Do you let your glow plugs warm up for the full 2 minutes or do you wait for the light to go out. Mine starts better if I wait.
Yea, when it is really cold I definitely wait the full 2 mins, and sometimes even cycle it again.
How often is the fuel filter changed?
The recommended interval is every 15k miles (every 3rd oil change). Some will say, on higher mileage engines, to do it every oil change because it's cheap and easy. Basically don't go longer than 15k miles, do it at 10k or 5k if you feel inclined.
@@TheBTRGarage awesome! Thank you so much!!
What size socket for the fuel filter cap
Thanks 🙏
You’re welcome 😊
GREAT VIDEO!!!!
Hand tighten filters folks.
Your oil pan leaking from up top?
Dang you're quick! It looks like it might be, I noticed that too when changing the oil. However, I had not lost much oil. I cleaned up the area to see if more oil shows up at the next oil change. Good eye!
Anyone know why my fuel bowl isn’t draining when I Turn the lever
Is there fuel in the bowl? 😁
Sounds like the tube may be gunked up, also make sure you take the lid off the bowl (air needs to displace the fuel draining or it will vacuum).
Start the truck, then open the drain. It will blow out any restriction. I’ve had the same issue, after a quick blow while idling, problem fixed.
Maybe I missed it but you forgot about how to prime the fuel filter by turning the key to the on position for 20 sec or so two or three times .
I thought I did? Or maybe I did in my more recent video that was specially for fuel filter change.
how come all these 7.3 fuel filter videos all show a different filter and cap coming off the truck and not ford? they all take an aftermarket out and put a motorcraft in... why all these aftermarkets and where do you get caps if you dont have them or you just want the same filter your taking out? i dont know whats in it yet but i dont want to be assed out when i do it...
The non-OEM filters are probably what's easily available at your local auto store, or auto shop doing the oil changes. I'm sure they are cheaper and cost has something to do with it. I think you'd have to go to the dealership for OEM.
This was my question exactly. I found DORMAN Part # 904-203 fuel filter cap on Amazon for $15. So now I can use a Motorcraft filter and replace my Napa all in one!
But did it help your white smoke coming out of your muffler remember? Did the 64 oz of oil treatment work? Or do you still have the white smoke?
I think that might have been unrelated. The white smoke eventually went away, but I am not exactly sure why.
I had to do the quarter trick on my 99 7.3. After I drove it a couple times. Mine seem to have more response with the fixes I have done to it. That's cool it went away.
The quarter trick for the injector harness? I just had to do that on one side, truck broke down in middle of nowhere a month or two ago 😳
Wix fuel filters for my 1996 Ford F350 Turbodiesel have “gone out the roof” in price in less than a year, especially Wix filters. $70.00 or so at O’Reilly’s.
Bummer. Try out the Motorcraft, $25 bucks.
Remember everyone. Do not mix fuel filters and fuel filter covers! They are not the same! I personally run Motorcraft, if you run NAPA, or WIX, you have to use their cover!!! If not it will bypass the filter, because the filters are different sizes.
What additions are you putting in there
So putting the 5w-40 is better than the 15w-40 ? I have a 2002 ford f250 xlt