Totally agree, this is certainly one oif the easiest to follow builds on TH-cam. Hopefully in time more people will come across the channel. It's really easy going and good to follow. Awesome series of videos so far.
Good information video, my electrical closet is a mess lol, should have watched a lot more videos, it works though, not going to redo it at this point but will do a better solar setup when ready to add it.
Why often I find that making it neat as possible but having it messy works just as fine sometimes making it neat requires additional cost which can be unnecessary
Enjoying your videos. Had you gone for the 100/20 SmartSolar you could have avoided needing the smart protect, as the 20amp version has a load out with protection. Im only saying this as you mentioned in a previous video that your pannels are less than 100v or 20amp. This is more a message for others looking at building a system, stay below 20 and save money. Nice layout.
A 100amp fuse will run all day long at around 140amps, this allows for any blips and is where slow blow and quick blow fuses come into it. Your 110a cable could be overloaded especially if you have it running in any insulation.
I have had a look at your circuit diagram. You appear to be charging up both the leisure batteries and the starter battery at the same time from the solar controller. Is this the case?
Hey dude! Unfortunately not. The VSR only works one way so it only allows me to charge my leisure batteries whilst the van is moving. It doesn't allow current to run the opposite direction, so my solar controller will only be able to charge my leisure batteries. To be able to charge your starter battery as well, you would need to replace the VSR with a DC/DC charger instead.
@@GreenHornCountryClub Ok, good. My concern was that you might be using a single charger to charge two different battery types (starter and leisure) at the same time which have different characteristics....I just watched a video where some guy was suggesting that as an option! Do that and it will knacker the batteries.
Victron with some of these units provide a cable for the earth that has a ring crimp already on the end. This implies that it is not necessarily needed. Would you like me to use channels? I have to ask them directly and get an answer for you as I purchased products from them in bulk, I do have, special communication options that I can use
@@UKsystems hi.yes i’m trying to get a 300mA FUSE 12VOLTS.ITS NOT EASY NEARLY ALL are 250v apart from one on ebay from holland .Maybe you can get me one from victron?could you ask why my victron dc chargers are only putting out measly 10amps between them now ?18amp and 30amp dc chargers in parallel.Cant see nothing changed .checked connections.i have victron ip22 mains 30amp charger now but need that extra dc amps when off grid on road touring .thanks
This fusebox you use is dangerous. I have the same one. When a fuse blows, it still has a load of 11 volts. This is because of the leds. After removing the electronics with the leds it behaved normally. Do you have the same experience?
Hey dude, really appreciate the message. I’ve heard very similar reports from others but I haven’t had any issues myself. Despite that, I will very likely upgrade it very soon for piece of mind 🙏🏻
Unfortunately I couldn’t afford lithium batteries so I bought two AGM batteries for my electrical system instead. The battery protect will prevent them from being discharged too low.
You may need to Victron batteries can disconnect and they also cannot it’s based on the BMS. You choose to get a little bit complex but also a battery protect could be controlled remotely through a cable. All the voltage could be set slightly above the cut off so you could turn off non-critical loads, and keep your fridge running which may be more important than having one little light on
@@deranocasper I got the crimping tool from Amazon. This one to be precise: www.amazon.co.uk/RZJZGZ-Multifunctional-Stripping-Automatic-Strippers/dp/B09B9SHWV3 For the components, if you check in the description of the video, there should be links to where I got each item. As for the van, it is indeed a MWB!
@@GreenHornCountryClub your van is getting the works it will be very warm you cant skip on the insulation 😊💯 you where using a big blue handle crimping tool I appreciate it are you going to fit a vent to your electrics to keep things kool 👍
@@deranocasper ahhhhh yes, the crimping tool I was using for the larger cables. I got it from Amazon as well, along with the cables cutters: www.amazon.co.uk/Dechengbao-Battery-Cable-Crimping-Cutter/dp/B08FJFLTHK In terms of keeping the electrics cool, it’s a little hard to see without my bed in place but I’m only going to be plying half of that timber frame and the rear half will be left open into my garage area, so that should be plenty of ventilation 👌
I think your 100A fuse should be on other side of the Battery Protect. Otherwise if there's a short within (or before) the Battery Protect, then the 16mm cable between the BP and the batteries will only be protected by the 200A fuse on the leisure batteries.
Hey bud! Thanks so much for your comment. I think you're more than likely right. At the time, the reason I placed the kill switch and fuse next to each other is because I was initially just going to use a circuit breaker and wanted a way to just disconnect the fuse box without affecting the BP. Then when I made the decision to instead use a kill switch and fuse, I just left them next to each other. I did have a look over all the system schematics on Victron's website and I couldn't see any that included a fuse between the BP and the positive busbar. I also figured that the BP itself would be able to alert me of any short in the cable from the battery.
I want to comment on a couple of things. They are not kill switches, they are isolation switches to use the correct terminology. Isolation switches should be placed inline as close as possible to the source of electricity. I'm not sure that using the battery protect switch actually achieves that? Isolation should be achieved by proper easily identifiable switches, not cryptic methods of opening things up and doing XYZ which only you know about. Somebody other than you might need to cut the power so clearly labelled switches are required.
@@deang5622 Thanks for the feedback dude, much appreciated 👍 I was under the impression that a fuse should always be the first thing a power supply hits, followed by the switch, then the load. I've aimed to wire each component that way. I've also made sure to clearly mark each switch so they're easily identifiable, as well as each appliance. Thanks again!
I’m much prefer having a physical switch connected to remote port. This is only because the app is good but it’s not always on hand. It’s unlikely you don’t have your phone on you but when you don’t, it gets very annoying.
![“อ.เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม” มาตามคำเรียกร้อง แหกศาสตร์ฮวงจุ้ย เตือนสติอย่างมงาย | แฉ 7 พ.ย. 67 [1/3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5fc4S3xBNfc/mqdefault.jpg)
Man.. You're explaining all the details perfectly!
Your channel is so underrated!
Keep it up!
Thanks so much dude!
This is informative and easy to understand. I will be following all of your videos with my own camper build. Keep up the great work
Thanks so much!
Why have you only got 33 subscribers
Great content dude I hope you reach 100k in no time
Thanks so much dude! That really means a lot 🙏 Quality over quantity I say!
Totally agree, this is certainly one oif the easiest to follow builds on TH-cam. Hopefully in time more people will come across the channel. It's really easy going and good to follow. Awesome series of videos so far.
@@petewarby7158totally agree!! He needs to be at 1m! Lol!
Good information video, my electrical closet is a mess lol, should have watched a lot more videos, it works though, not going to redo it at this point but will do a better solar setup when ready to add it.
Thanks man! At least it works! I guess it’s always something you can come back to and add/tidy things.
@@GreenHornCountryClub What I add to it, will be neater, what is there just does not have enough wire to redo, but it is OK it works.
Why often I find that making it neat as possible but having it messy works just as fine sometimes making it neat requires additional cost which can be unnecessary
Enjoying your videos. Had you gone for the 100/20 SmartSolar you could have avoided needing the smart protect, as the 20amp version has a load out with protection. Im only saying this as you mentioned in a previous video that your pannels are less than 100v or 20amp.
This is more a message for others looking at building a system, stay below 20 and save money.
Nice layout.
Really good tip mate, thank you!
A 100amp fuse will run all day long at around 140amps, this allows for any blips and is where slow blow and quick blow fuses come into it. Your 110a cable could be overloaded especially if you have it running in any insulation.
i’ve ordered fuses off ebay come from holland though just need fuse holder then 12v
I have had a look at your circuit diagram.
You appear to be charging up both the leisure batteries and the starter battery at the same time from the solar controller. Is this the case?
Hey dude! Unfortunately not. The VSR only works one way so it only allows me to charge my leisure batteries whilst the van is moving. It doesn't allow current to run the opposite direction, so my solar controller will only be able to charge my leisure batteries. To be able to charge your starter battery as well, you would need to replace the VSR with a DC/DC charger instead.
@@GreenHornCountryClub Ok, good.
My concern was that you might be using a single charger to charge two different battery types (starter and leisure) at the same time which have different characteristics....I just watched a video where some guy was suggesting that as an option! Do that and it will knacker the batteries.
hi . i’m about to fit victron battery protect soon and i see victron say you need to fit a 300mA fuse on the earth wire did you fit one on your setup?
Victron with some of these units provide a cable for the earth that has a ring crimp already on the end. This implies that it is not necessarily needed. Would you like me to use channels? I have to ask them directly and get an answer for you as I purchased products from them in bulk, I do have, special communication options that I can use
@@UKsystems hi.yes i’m trying to get a 300mA FUSE 12VOLTS.ITS NOT EASY NEARLY ALL are 250v apart from one on ebay from holland .Maybe you can get me one from victron?could you ask why my victron dc chargers are only putting out measly 10amps between them now ?18amp and 30amp dc chargers in parallel.Cant see nothing changed .checked connections.i have victron ip22 mains 30amp charger now but need that extra dc amps when off grid on road touring .thanks
just ordered one off ebay it’s for vu meter hifi .says 12v 300mA .so just need fuse holder think have one somewhere
This fusebox you use is dangerous. I have the same one. When a fuse blows, it still has a load of 11 volts. This is because of the leds. After removing the electronics with the leds it behaved normally. Do you have the same experience?
Hey dude, really appreciate the message. I’ve heard very similar reports from others but I haven’t had any issues myself. Despite that, I will very likely upgrade it very soon for piece of mind 🙏🏻
This is half through this voltage is not inherently dangerous but with the LED it is very very low power so there is a little risk but it’s not big
Why do you need to add a battery protect if you have lithium batteries which have their own in built protection?
Unfortunately I couldn’t afford lithium batteries so I bought two AGM batteries for my electrical system instead. The battery protect will prevent them from being discharged too low.
You may need to Victron batteries can disconnect and they also cannot it’s based on the BMS. You choose to get a little bit complex but also a battery protect could be controlled remotely through a cable. All the voltage could be set slightly above the cut off so you could turn off non-critical loads, and keep your fridge running which may be more important than having one little light on
Very tidy set up sir
Hope you don't mind me subscribing to your channel 🍻
Thanks so much bud! And thanks for subscribing too!
@@GreenHornCountryClub Hi where did you purchase your crimping tool and components big cheers 🍻what is your van is it a mwb 🍻?
@@deranocasper I got the crimping tool from Amazon. This one to be precise:
www.amazon.co.uk/RZJZGZ-Multifunctional-Stripping-Automatic-Strippers/dp/B09B9SHWV3
For the components, if you check in the description of the video, there should be links to where I got each item. As for the van, it is indeed a MWB!
@@GreenHornCountryClub your van is getting the works it will be very warm you cant skip on the insulation 😊💯 you where using a big blue handle crimping tool I appreciate it are you going to fit a vent to your electrics to keep things kool 👍
@@deranocasper ahhhhh yes, the crimping tool I was using for the larger cables. I got it from Amazon as well, along with the cables cutters:
www.amazon.co.uk/Dechengbao-Battery-Cable-Crimping-Cutter/dp/B08FJFLTHK
In terms of keeping the electrics cool, it’s a little hard to see without my bed in place but I’m only going to be plying half of that timber frame and the rear half will be left open into my garage area, so that should be plenty of ventilation 👌
I think your 100A fuse should be on other side of the Battery Protect. Otherwise if there's a short within (or before) the Battery Protect, then the 16mm cable between the BP and the batteries will only be protected by the 200A fuse on the leisure batteries.
Hey bud! Thanks so much for your comment. I think you're more than likely right. At the time, the reason I placed the kill switch and fuse next to each other is because I was initially just going to use a circuit breaker and wanted a way to just disconnect the fuse box without affecting the BP. Then when I made the decision to instead use a kill switch and fuse, I just left them next to each other. I did have a look over all the system schematics on Victron's website and I couldn't see any that included a fuse between the BP and the positive busbar. I also figured that the BP itself would be able to alert me of any short in the cable from the battery.
@@GreenHornCountryClub yeah I'm far from an expert, electricity is complicated 😁
@@danleone isn’t it just! Absolute minefield. I’m sure I’ll learn the hard way when my system blows up 😂
The 200 amp fuse next to the VSR is not required, as you've already got a 200 amp fuse next to the battery.
@@danleone The problem is that it is not taught properly, not even to electricians.
No, the battery protect Does not sense when battery is at 50%.
It has a low voltage cut off based on voltage level.
Did you know… you can use the battery protect as a ‘kill switch’? Open the app and toggle the slider to off
I do now!
I want to comment on a couple of things. They are not kill switches, they are isolation switches to use the correct terminology.
Isolation switches should be placed inline as close as possible to the source of electricity. I'm not sure that using the battery protect switch actually achieves that?
Isolation should be achieved by proper easily identifiable switches, not cryptic methods of opening things up and doing XYZ which only you know about. Somebody other than you might need to cut the power so clearly labelled switches are required.
@@deang5622 Thanks for the feedback dude, much appreciated 👍 I was under the impression that a fuse should always be the first thing a power supply hits, followed by the switch, then the load. I've aimed to wire each component that way. I've also made sure to clearly mark each switch so they're easily identifiable, as well as each appliance. Thanks again!
@@deang5622 however it’s not really a form of isolation because it could be overridden several ways
I’m much prefer having a physical switch connected to remote port. This is only because the app is good but it’s not always on hand. It’s unlikely you don’t have your phone on you but when you don’t, it gets very annoying.
Some very crappy 12 volt fuse box on amazon. I've been stung with one.
Oh really? Did the fuse box just give up and break?
@@GreenHornCountryClub nope. It read 12.98 volts with or without a fuse
@@sun-sea-solar really good to know man, thank you - I think I’ll double-check mine again tomorrow just in case…