Another consideration when sizing a shunt, is the resolution of the measurement (as converted to digital). Measurements will be more accurate if the shunt is not oversized, especially at charging current (less than 100 amps)
this is a good point. my lithium batteries BMS will not read anything under 1 amp being drawn from the battery. this means the bluetooth app for the battery is not giving an accurate state of charge once it starts being used and depleted. my Victron BMV 712 however, will read to within a tenth of a percent with the 500 amp shunt that came with it. the shunt/BMV combo will give a very accurate state of charge as the battery depletes. when i recharge the battery i use the app thats connected to the BMS for the battery to confirm the individual cell voltages to be able to confirm when its 100% charged. once its charged i check the victron BMV to make sure its in sync then rely on the BMV again for level of discharge as i use the battery.
I suspect if you were to check temperature readings on several different units of each device and temperature probes as well, you would probably see different numbers....Also if you calculate the wattage each shunt is reading they're pretty close, they are only 7 watts apart at over 1100 watts which is much less significant, thanks for video
The Victron stuff is very capable and very well-respected. They certainly think highly of it, if the prices are any indication. I would not use a Victron Lynx shunt in a Van setup; maybe in a really large RV? I've used Victron chargers and have a couple of their smart shunts in use, one for a mobile power station and one for a small off-grid setup. I've been very happy with the data they provide.
If I'm not mistaken, both shunts have a "Calibrate" setting, because all sensors are manufactured within a set margin of error. This allows you to use any means you desire to determine 'real temp', and calibrate the system accordingly. Or, that "calibrate' setting may be in the GX software. Whichever, there is a way to make either of them give the desired accuracy after calibration.
Hey there, yes there is "zero current calibration" which I've never had to use. Other than that the calculations by the shunt are not able to be modified by the end user as far as I know.
As a couple others have said, I'd expect there to be higher amperage on the Lynx Shunt because of the voltage drop. Lower voltage=higher amperage, since Watts is the only "true" measurement, at least in this context. If you convert both to Watts, they're a lot closer
This is a good assessment, but we have to remember that the Lynx Shunt is taking a reading, and cannot change the current coming through it. Same current x slightly lower voltage = slightly lower watts through the Lynx Shunt. Voltage drop was 0.074V x 95A = 7.03 watts less than the SmartShunt.
With the lower voltage for the Lynx shunt (as it is further from the power source) it makes sense that amperage would be a bit higher to achieve the same power. 1.13KWh Lynx shunt vs 1.14KWh for smartshunt - Lynxshunt is further down the line so therefore would receive less power as some power is lost as heat in the line, no?
Your approach makes sense, but as mentioned in the video, Kirchhoff's Current law states that the current is the same through both shunts. The Lynx Shunt is just taking a reading, and cannot boost the current. You are right on the power loss, but that would be due to a (very) slight voltage drop, the current is unchanged.
Hello, thanks for the video. I noticed that you have DC power monitor 3W at 11:30 in the video, I currently purchased only victron battery shunt and cannot read DC loads is it only possible with lynx shunt and battery shunt together or I can use 2 battery shunt for example one to read SOC and the second for the DC load, I plan to use 12V dc load 24/7 so will be important to know total DC load consumption in order to calculate solar and battery sizes accurately. thank you in advance.
If I’m using a lynx shunt, distributor, multi plus, and Orion. I’m grounding the multi plus to the negative bus bar on the distributor, the mppt to the multi plus ground, and then where does my chassis ground go to?? The lynx shunt? The multi plus?
No way is a clamp on meter as accurate as either shunts. Most clamp on DC meters are no better than 4% and the best one I know of is 2%. I don't think you can conclude which shunt is more accurate, you need a better way to get a current standard than using a clamp on meter.
"A man with a watch always knows the time. A man with two watches is never quite sure..." 🙂
Another consideration when sizing a shunt, is the resolution of the measurement (as converted to digital).
Measurements will be more accurate if the shunt is not oversized, especially at charging current (less than 100 amps)
this is a good point. my lithium batteries BMS will not read anything under 1 amp being drawn from the battery. this means the bluetooth app for the battery is not giving an accurate state of charge once it starts being used and depleted. my Victron BMV 712 however, will read to within a tenth of a percent with the 500 amp shunt that came with it. the shunt/BMV combo will give a very accurate state of charge as the battery depletes. when i recharge the battery i use the app thats connected to the BMS for the battery to confirm the individual cell voltages to be able to confirm when its 100% charged. once its charged i check the victron BMV to make sure its in sync then rely on the BMV again for level of discharge as i use the battery.
Love seeing that Ross Lukeman smile at the end of each video! ;D 🙏
Haha thanks, I should smile more than just at the end, right?
Excellent answer to the question i just came across!
You're awesome!
Thanks for all the time you invest in educating us!
Hey Dan, thanks for appreciating the time it takes to put these videos together, I'm glad you found that helpful!
Thanks for the updated video Ross.
Thanks for checking it out Paul!
Nice job explaining the differences.
I suspect if you were to check temperature readings on several different units of each device and temperature probes as well, you would probably see different numbers....Also if you calculate the wattage each shunt is reading they're pretty close, they are only 7 watts apart at over 1100 watts which is much less significant, thanks for video
Appreciate this information. Nice job
Thank you!
The Victron stuff is very capable and very well-respected. They certainly think highly of it, if the prices are any indication. I would not use a Victron Lynx shunt in a Van setup; maybe in a really large RV? I've used Victron chargers and have a couple of their smart shunts in use, one for a mobile power station and one for a small off-grid setup. I've been very happy with the data they provide.
If I'm not mistaken, both shunts have a "Calibrate" setting, because all sensors are manufactured within a set margin of error. This allows you to use any means you desire to determine 'real temp', and calibrate the system accordingly.
Or, that "calibrate' setting may be in the GX software. Whichever, there is a way to make either of them give the desired accuracy after calibration.
Hey there, yes there is "zero current calibration" which I've never had to use. Other than that the calculations by the shunt are not able to be modified by the end user as far as I know.
As a couple others have said, I'd expect there to be higher amperage on the Lynx Shunt because of the voltage drop. Lower voltage=higher amperage, since Watts is the only "true" measurement, at least in this context. If you convert both to Watts, they're a lot closer
This is a good assessment, but we have to remember that the Lynx Shunt is taking a reading, and cannot change the current coming through it. Same current x slightly lower voltage = slightly lower watts through the Lynx Shunt. Voltage drop was 0.074V x 95A = 7.03 watts less than the SmartShunt.
With the lower voltage for the Lynx shunt (as it is further from the power source) it makes sense that amperage would be a bit higher to achieve the same power. 1.13KWh Lynx shunt vs 1.14KWh for smartshunt - Lynxshunt is further down the line so therefore would receive less power as some power is lost as heat in the line, no?
Your approach makes sense, but as mentioned in the video, Kirchhoff's Current law states that the current is the same through both shunts. The Lynx Shunt is just taking a reading, and cannot boost the current. You are right on the power loss, but that would be due to a (very) slight voltage drop, the current is unchanged.
I think I would go for the SmartShunt because it's about 1/3 the price of the Lynx Shunt
That's a logical conclusion, thanks for tuning in!
I did the math with the numbers onscreen and, looking at each shunt and multiplying volts X amps, the wattage comes in within 1% of each other.
Very cool! That is the kind of analysis we need...thanks for tuning in!
Hello, thanks for the video. I noticed that you have DC power monitor 3W at 11:30 in the video, I currently purchased only victron battery shunt and cannot read DC loads is it only possible with lynx shunt and battery shunt together or I can use 2 battery shunt for example one to read SOC and the second for the DC load, I plan to use 12V dc load 24/7 so will be important to know total DC load consumption in order to calculate solar and battery sizes accurately. thank you in advance.
If I’m using a lynx shunt, distributor, multi plus, and Orion. I’m grounding the multi plus to the negative bus bar on the distributor, the mppt to the multi plus ground, and then where does my chassis ground go to?? The lynx shunt? The multi plus?
My issue is - my solar connection is on the 2 batteries along with 4 other grounds.
good video - will the lynx shunt work with any type of batteries and even DIY lifepo4?
Hey there, yes it will measure any battery, DIY or factory-made. Great question, thanks for tuning in-
Doesn’t the Lynx Shunt require a GX? It’s of no use without it, correct?
@@gvlive yes that's correct, it needs a GX device - that's where you program it and where you would read its data.
Where would you put you distribution block
No way is a clamp on meter as accurate as either shunts. Most clamp on DC meters are no better than 4% and the best one I know of is 2%. I don't think you can conclude which shunt is more accurate, you need a better way to get a current standard than using a clamp on meter.
Exactly. Clamp meters are like eye balling. Shunts with this ADC resolution and range are eye balling as well😂😂😂😂
Can you use both? I bought the 500amp shunt before I knew what I was doing.
you answered this
Greta info
Thanks!
How dare you!
Great info haha