Looks like the loads through the switch panel are now each, double fused. Some would advise a fuse very close to the battery to protect the main battery cables.
Instead of using them cheap and horrible connector blocks you should use Wagos, they connect everything together so you don’t have to daisy chain the negatives, much neater, safer and easier to install 👍🏻
To be honest, I wouldn't like to advise on that. I personally think it would be ok, but you're better off checking with someone who knows better than me.
One more question if you’d be kind enough to answer, is your switch panel wired direct to battery? Mines reads 12.9 on battery but only 3.7 if it’s connected to fuse board, thanks
@@user-xb9eu4fe4u Mine goes to the fuse box. I have no idea why you would have a reduction in voltage. Is it deffo connected in correctly with a fuse fitted ?
Can't see the point of having a fuse board and inline fuses. One or the other. Most remove the inline fuses from the switch panel (they're all 15amps - oversized) and make a new cable with spade connections (with heat shrink) to run back to the fuse board, with the correct size spade fuses for the load of each circuit.
No inverter, because everything is 12 volt. An inverter changes it to AC, so you can use normal household electrical appliances. I use an EcoFlow power station for that stuff. Thanks for watching.
Just a thought,,if you switch the white switch off at night , will that kill the power to all your light`s etc , i see i`m not the only one who forget`s to put the heat shrink on first 😂😂👍👍👍👍
Hi Tonyboat. Thanks for you comments :) No it won't turn them all off, cause the light under top cupboard and the above the bed are. straight into the fuse box, which will be on :)
Hi, thanks for your comment. Where would I plug the negatives in from the load, as in the lights ? I thought all the negatives go all the. way back to the fuse box, so I did it this way, so that I didn't have to run a lead all the way back.
I'll say it now so no fires if you buy a van and it has Halfords stickers on cables get a professional to check all amp ratings for cables fuses and products
@@foxystravels hi, the purpose of the fuse is to protect the cable which is coming straight from the battery (DC) from potentially over heating and catching fire, but all you have is a isolator to cut off the power manually for you to work on your system, so the fuse should be installed as well so it can trip and break the circuit in case of any overload faults, i hope that makes sence as im a bathroom fitter and not a sparky but it should be common practice especially on dc and solar setups as im aware off cheers craig
Yes ideally you should have a fuse close to battery before you’re isolator ,cover for when you add more circuits to your fuse box 👍👍
Great video and very simple, enjoyed the negative bus bar option
Thank you ☺️
Great video. I’ve learnt lots of stuff, thank you!
I can't wait until you sort a van out for yourself.
Ahhh, about time we saw you doing some wiring 😉
Great vid as always. Well done mate.
Lol thank you. I’ll be an expert when it’s finished 😂
C'è un grande errore da correggere devi mettere un fusibile tra la batteria e lo stacca batterie
Looks like the loads through the switch panel are now each, double fused.
Some would advise a fuse very close to the battery to protect the main battery cables.
Thanks for the advice :)
I liked when you pretended to be a cowboy with the drills.
Pistol Pete :)
Instead of using them cheap and horrible connector blocks you should use Wagos, they connect everything together so you don’t have to daisy chain the negatives, much neater, safer and easier to install 👍🏻
Cool, I'll have a look. Do you have a link to where I can view them please :)
Leccy... Fabulous
Thank you kind sir 😊
good one
Thank you very much :)
Hello great video could you connect a inverter to the fuse board ? Instead of running straight off the battery
To be honest, I wouldn't like to advise on that. I personally think it would be ok, but you're better off checking with someone who knows better than me.
Could you let me know what size fuse you used for the switch panel. Good videos. 👍🏻
Thanks for your comment, it’s very much appreciated.
I’ll have a check and let you know.
Hi mate great video and very helpful for me definitely but can I ask did you have to put fuses in for the control panel to work? Thanks
Hi mate, thanks for watching. As far as I remember, the control panel already has the fuses fitted.
Thanks for replying bud, I’m going to try get mines hooked up this weekend 👍🏻
@@user-xb9eu4fe4u Cool, I hope it goes well for you. I haven't had any bother with the set up at all, up to now.
One more question if you’d be kind enough to answer, is your switch panel wired direct to battery? Mines reads 12.9 on battery but only 3.7 if it’s connected to fuse board, thanks
@@user-xb9eu4fe4u Mine goes to the fuse box. I have no idea why you would have a reduction in voltage. Is it deffo connected in correctly with a fuse fitted ?
Can't see the point of having a fuse board and inline fuses. One or the other. Most remove the inline fuses from the switch panel (they're all 15amps - oversized) and make a new cable with spade connections (with heat shrink) to run back to the fuse board, with the correct size spade fuses for the load of each circuit.
Do you have an inverter? Total novice just trying to get my head around it all
No inverter, because everything is 12 volt. An inverter changes it to AC, so you can use normal household electrical appliances.
I use an EcoFlow power station for that stuff.
Thanks for watching.
Just a thought,,if you switch the white switch off at night , will that kill the power to all your light`s etc , i see i`m not the only one who forget`s to put the heat shrink on first 😂😂👍👍👍👍
Hi Tonyboat. Thanks for you comments :) No it won't turn them all off, cause the light under top cupboard and the above the bed are. straight into the fuse box, which will be on :)
Why did you piggy back all the negatives when there already piggy backed on the back of the switch panel already?
Hi, thanks for your comment. Where would I plug the negatives in from the load, as in the lights ? I thought all the negatives go all the. way back to the fuse box, so I did it this way, so that I didn't have to run a lead all the way back.
I don't understand why you used a fuse box when the control panal has inline fuses
Just extra protection ?
I'll say it now so no fires if you buy a van and it has Halfords stickers on cables get a professional to check all amp ratings for cables fuses and products
Thank you for the advice
Jesus another van without a fused power cable just a cut off switch 😂😂😂😂 like it does it itself before fire
Explain please, instead of being so negative ?
Does it amuse you to laugh at people ?
Why don't you offer some constructive advice.
@@foxystravels hi,
the purpose of the fuse is to protect the cable which is coming straight from the battery (DC) from potentially over heating and catching fire,
but all you have is a isolator to cut off the power manually for you to work on your system,
so the fuse should be installed as well so it can trip and break the circuit in case of any overload faults,
i hope that makes sence as im a bathroom fitter and not a sparky but it should be common practice especially on dc and solar setups as im aware off
cheers craig