There nothing wrong with watching you tube. I watched TH-cam when my diagnostics technique aren’t working. or problem happen intermittently. God bless you tube and the people who goes above and beyond for making this helpful videos
So I actually watched this after I had put a re man starter in and I got the same results as the original starter……. I was getting pretty frustrated. So I decided to take back the re man and bought a brand new starter, installed it and it has never worked better!!!!! Starts like a brand new truck again! Thanks so much!!!
1992 GMC c1500 bad starter out of the box!! I racked my brain with every other thing it could have been, then i watched your video. I struggled with a slow crank start for aboit 2 years and finally saw this video, had the auto parts store do a warranty replacement on the starter.. BOOM.!! now it starts in an instant.! THANK YOU SO MUCH.!!!!!
Great video, starter was the problem on my 97 c3500 with the 454. It would only throw the code maybe 1 in 20 start cycles, and the starter seemed to have a growl sound to it. New starter fixed it right up
Thank you! My 1999 Tahoe Sport with 250k mile has had almost every sensor and module/ignition parts all replaced and is kept in superb condition. I do all the work from injection spider to things that don’t require shop work. Then it’s dealer time. But my 1351 is exactly what you describe and has me baffled. Think you NAILED IT! Starter ordered today 👍 God bless you!
Test with Known GOOD part!!!!!!!!! Very good advice. Many years ago, building my home, I installed several 3 way electrical light switches. I couldn't get the stairway to work, I wired and rewired, Tested, changed the switches four times, wouldn't work. Finally I removed a switch from another circuit and installed it, all worked properly, Five brand new 3 way switches out of the box were bad!
02 Silverado 4.8 1500 I have the exact intermittent problem except no codes at all I been chasing this problem awhile now driving me absolutely crazy and I’m guilty of throwing parts at it rather then taking it to a professional but i like to learn about my vehicles especially this new to me truck and write it off as “well it needed a new one” I’m the 3rd owner but the 2nd owner had her since 05 so I figure old parts wouldn’t hurt to be replaced and learn about this truck as I go. Which I have experienced many improvements to performance except for fixing my problem. Haha. Anyways every video I had researched about failing starters have never spoke about a dead spot on it causing this very similar intermittent problem I have too. so I will now venture off into this direction chasing the starter thank you for the help.
Back in the day, a Chevy starter if you remember, while cranking, they had a boost terminal on the solenoid it went back to the coil to boost ignition power, while the starter was cranking this reminds me of that condition sometimes it would not start , and just as you let off the key it would fire and run that last piston up. Great video I have fought this code before but found the same thing that you did.
Like a blower motor having dead spot. Chased this on a 2010 HHR. Thought it might be the relay but it wasn’t. It did have a bad resistor also. 2 issues but after replacing resistor the blower would not run once every 2 weeks and when cold also. Finally thought windings could be the issue. Cut old out and replaced and no issues since and stronger air movement.
Thanks been chasing same problem on a 98 k3500 so annoying. Mine takes 3 key cycles on the 2nd try it starts then stumbles and stalls. Then on 3rd try it starts like a new truck. One weird thing I’m in Florida but we do have really cold days occasionally in the winter. If it’s in the 30’s it fires right up. Thanks again will be doing a starter I’ll let ya know.
Yeah it’s weird. 1996 F350 7.4L. New battery, new starter, alternator testing ok, replacing sensors, etc. The truck sometimes starts up instantly. Then, it doesn’t for a long time or stumbles/shifting issues. Clear the codes and it starts instantly. Plus, I found some bad grounding. I have no hair to pull out :)
I have a constant p0303 with an intermittent P1351 on my 98 Silverado 5.7 with 225 k on it I've changed all of the suspects associated with it. I haven't tried or even thought of the starter being the culprit of the p1351. I'll change it and see if it does the trick. I'm relatively sure the p0303 is a fuel regulator. Just replaced the fuel pump back to an AC Delco from an aftermarket that only carried 50 psi. Has 55 after the pump change.
My 1999 new body GMC Sierra 4.3 started doing exactly what you described in the video soon after I replace the Ignition Control Module. I’m thinking the starter became damaged when I kept cranking the engine over for long periods before I had it towed. Replaced the Ignition Control Module and coil. Truck ran fine then started doing what the truck in the video did. I’m thinking starter now?
OMG Same exact situation. I own 1999 GMC Sierra 4.3. Soon after I replaced ignition control module and coil I started having the exact symptoms as in this video. I kinda lived with it and it’s been 4yrs now. Starter will be next eventually.
I just put in a brand new ac delco starer on my 98 Chevy Tahoe when it’s cold stars right up fine but after it’s warm and left for 15-20 minutes you try starting it again stars really lazy almost as it starving for gas and throws the p1351 code , now I put just about every sensor new you can think of crank maf tps idler ignition coil you name it it’s got it along with new fuel pump n fuel injection spider so I’m gonna have to disagree with the starter dilemma sense again it has a ac delco new starer but my question is could I had put a starter that is not compatible with this truck ? I Oder what it calls for this year n model can anyone help me figure this out.?? Thanks in advance 😢
Got a 96 GMC Yukon 5.7 go to start it will do a quick crank lil it backfire and then starter slips and spins. Does it every time. Honestly just bought and towed it home dead battery transmission shot will crack enough to do a quick backfire then hear starter slip and spin after
I have the same code although my my starter does not drag or go slow it's normal crank everytime but it is intermittent to start and not start for awhile any thoughts just replace everything from fuel to spart I just recently put a i.c.m. and a coil seemed to crank a little bit better but still has that intermittent once in ahwile hard start no light on before replacing now p3151 high voltage on my icm any thoughts ?
This is exactly what my 1997 gmc k1500 is doing! I am going to look at the starter. If this proves to be the culprit, I will come back and edit this comment. Thanks!
@@Rbenterprises4 changing the starter got the same result as the guy in the video?...if so, this has to be my problem also. I went through my entire ignition system. P1351 code still pop up. The only thing I haven't replaced is the starter. 🤦🏿♂️
@@RealSpiit_4rm_Z3 The starter on my truck is very old and throws that code every now and then. If my boy takes a minute and tries to restart, the starter will eventually catch. I was in the car business years ago before reman starters. We used to turn the starter armatures, and replace the brushes, bushings, starter drive, and leather washer with very few comebacks. It is a lost art I fear!
My 97 K2500 is doing the same thing! New coil, new engine control Modular, Battery, new starter, Cap rotor, plugs, and wires nothing helped. took it to a shop no luck.
Came to say this....a relative compression test would pick this up as a a spike ( short) or dip ( open) that doesnt coincide with a particular cylinder every time.
I have a 1997 k1500 vortec (on my channel) Runs great but occasionally will crank, fire, then die only when hot outside temps and engine is heat soaked. Once cooled down with hood open for 20 minutes, starts and runs fine. Previously it would cut out in rpm range when hot. Replaced ignition control module and that problem went away but still have heat soaked hot start issue. Seems to crank normally no slow crank. No codes.
@@SandCarServices thanks for the reply. I’ll have to rent or buy a fuel pressure gauge. Fuel pump was replaced less than 20k miles ago with Delphi pump and new fuel filter. Old pump had low pressure and hard cold starts but didn’t have hot start and die symptoms.
The older vortex with the "spider injector system " had lots of issues. Leaking injectors was one of them. Unfortunately I don't the time thru troubleshooting it.
Hmmm, interesting. I have a 97 Chevy 3500 with 7.4 and had a complete shutdown and a crank but no fire after I pulled over to let the engine cool down after a long pull up a steep set of hills (I know now that was a mistake). Never started until it was towed to a shop and they replaced the ICM. Now starts but only on the second or third try. Still throwing the 1351 code. Looks like I need to change the starter. Thx.
I put a brand new fuel pump brand new fuel filter for a 96 same engine brand new distributor n cap new wires new starter change spark plugs but they get caked very quick n even lil bit of oil not sure if it’s 100% okay tbh because of this long crank issue it does it mostly in the cold weather but even does it some times when it’s warm outside yes once the engine is warm it starts no issue but if it’s cold it just cranks forever n eventually starts but if anyone can give me idea what I should do imma try to pull the plugs again clean them n see if it likes to start automatically but I guess we shall see
i changed the starter as soon as it slow cranked. im still having the same problem with this 97 tahoe. it started to turn over much faster after new starter but here we go again its back to cranking slow. also i cant even get it to fire up. code is aslo the same as yours thats the only code showing up on my scanner. please help me before i roll is off a cliff..
@@tobysteele6394 you need to make for sure your distributor is on correctly. Check and make sure that your on top dead center, drop the distributor in and make sure the direction of the firing pin falls onto 6 if you have v6 or 8 for v8
@@tobysteele6394 also double check your spark an make sure your getting spark before going any further. Remove cylinder 1 spark plug and crank engine. Spark plug must be grounded for spark to come through. If you have no spark check your ignition coil, ignition control module or even distributor cap.
@trashman I sure did man. It was a combination of timing was to far off and the starter was giving up on me from trying to learn to set timing and putting to much on the starter and burning it up. Lol we live and we learn 😂
I have the same code, cranks just fine but I’m the morning, I have to crank it two or three times for it to start, it cranks good but won’t start at first try when is cold
Sorry, but a faulty starter is not going to set a P-DTC. P-DTCs are emissions-related. Can you provide us with an update? Has that truck returned to your shop with the P1351?
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There nothing wrong with watching you tube. I watched TH-cam when my diagnostics technique aren’t working. or problem happen intermittently.
God bless you tube and the people who goes above and beyond for making this helpful videos
So I actually watched this after I had put a re man starter in and I got the same results as the original starter……. I was getting pretty frustrated. So I decided to take back the re man and bought a brand new starter, installed it and it has never worked better!!!!! Starts like a brand new truck again! Thanks so much!!!
My 97 GMC c1500 is doing a slow crank every time I try to start it. Watching your video gives me a good starting point. Thank you 👍
1992 GMC c1500 bad starter out of the box!! I racked my brain with every other thing it could have been, then i watched your video. I struggled with a slow crank start for aboit 2 years and finally saw this video, had the auto parts store do a warranty replacement on the starter.. BOOM.!! now it starts in an instant.! THANK YOU SO MUCH.!!!!!
Great video, starter was the problem on my 97 c3500 with the 454. It would only throw the code maybe 1 in 20 start cycles, and the starter seemed to have a growl sound to it. New starter fixed it right up
Thank you! My 1999 Tahoe Sport with 250k mile has had almost every sensor and module/ignition parts all replaced and is kept in superb condition. I do all the work from injection spider to things that don’t require shop work. Then it’s dealer time.
But my 1351 is exactly what you describe and has me baffled. Think you NAILED IT!
Starter ordered today 👍
God bless you!
Test with Known GOOD part!!!!!!!!! Very good advice. Many years ago, building my home, I installed several 3 way electrical light switches. I couldn't get the stairway to work, I wired and rewired, Tested, changed the switches four times, wouldn't work. Finally I removed a switch from another circuit and installed it, all worked properly, Five brand new 3 way switches out of the box were bad!
I found the issue after watching your video. It was the starter cable. Broke right off removing starter!! Thank you!!
02 Silverado 4.8 1500
I have the exact intermittent problem except no codes at all I been chasing this problem awhile now driving me absolutely crazy and I’m guilty of throwing parts at it rather then taking it to a professional but i like to learn about my vehicles especially this new to me truck and write it off as “well it needed a new one” I’m the 3rd owner but the 2nd owner had her since 05 so I figure old parts wouldn’t hurt to be replaced and learn about this truck as I go. Which I have experienced many improvements to performance except for fixing my problem. Haha. Anyways every video I had researched about failing starters have never spoke about a dead spot on it causing this very similar intermittent problem I have too. so I will now venture off into this direction chasing the starter thank you for the help.
Back in the day, a Chevy starter if you remember, while cranking, they had a boost terminal on the solenoid it went back to the coil to boost ignition power, while the starter was cranking this reminds me of that condition sometimes it would not start , and just as you let off the key it would fire and run that last piston up. Great video I have fought this code before but found the same thing that you did.
Awesome video buddy thanks for the help
Thank you. Excellent explanation sir.
Like a blower motor having dead spot. Chased this on a 2010 HHR. Thought it might be the relay but it wasn’t. It did have a bad resistor also. 2 issues but after replacing resistor the blower would not run once every 2 weeks and when cold also. Finally thought windings could be the issue. Cut old out and replaced and no issues since and stronger air movement.
Thank you for your help
Thanks been chasing same problem on a 98 k3500 so annoying. Mine takes 3 key cycles on the 2nd try it starts then stumbles and stalls. Then on 3rd try it starts like a new truck. One weird thing I’m in Florida but we do have really cold days occasionally in the winter. If it’s in the 30’s it fires right up. Thanks again will be doing a starter I’ll let ya know.
Great video 👌
Thank you for making this video. I guess my Chevy 91 Caprice needs new starter motor.
Yeah it’s weird. 1996 F350 7.4L. New battery, new starter, alternator testing ok, replacing sensors, etc. The truck sometimes starts up instantly. Then, it doesn’t for a long time or stumbles/shifting issues. Clear the codes and it starts instantly. Plus, I found some bad grounding. I have no hair to pull out :)
Your like 👍 and a new subscriber thank you sir
I have a constant p0303 with an intermittent P1351 on my 98 Silverado 5.7 with 225 k on it
I've changed all of the suspects associated with it. I haven't tried or even thought of the starter being the culprit of the p1351.
I'll change it and see if it does the trick.
I'm relatively sure the p0303 is a fuel regulator. Just replaced the fuel pump back to an AC Delco from an aftermarket that only carried 50 psi. Has 55 after the pump change.
Makes sense. Thank you.
1998 Chev 1500, mine was slow crank and it was the distributor the timing module was bad too.
well done sir.
I have a 96 F250 same symptoms replaced everything icm coil wires plugs cap rotor still with a p1351 starter?
My 1999 new body GMC Sierra 4.3 started doing exactly what you described in the video soon after I replace the Ignition Control Module. I’m thinking the starter became damaged when I kept cranking the engine over for long periods before I had it towed. Replaced the Ignition Control Module and coil. Truck ran fine then started doing what the truck in the video did. I’m thinking starter now?
OMG Same exact situation. I own 1999 GMC Sierra 4.3. Soon after I replaced ignition control module and coil I started having the exact symptoms as in this video. I kinda lived with it and it’s been 4yrs now. Starter will be next eventually.
I just put in a brand new ac delco starer on my 98 Chevy Tahoe when it’s cold stars right up fine but after it’s warm and left for 15-20 minutes you try starting it again stars really lazy almost as it starving for gas and throws the p1351 code , now I put just about every sensor new you can think of crank maf tps idler ignition coil you name it it’s got it along with new fuel pump n fuel injection spider so I’m gonna have to disagree with the starter dilemma sense again it has a ac delco new starer but my question is could I had put a starter that is not compatible with this truck ? I Oder what it calls for this year n model can anyone help me figure this out.?? Thanks in advance 😢
Got a 96 GMC Yukon 5.7 go to start it will do a quick crank lil it backfire and then starter slips and spins. Does it every time. Honestly just bought and towed it home dead battery transmission shot will crack enough to do a quick backfire then hear starter slip and spin after
I have the same code although my my starter does not drag or go slow it's normal crank everytime but it is intermittent to start and not start for awhile any thoughts just replace everything from fuel to spart I just recently put a i.c.m. and a coil seemed to crank a little bit better but still has that intermittent once in ahwile hard start no light on before replacing now p3151 high voltage on my icm any thoughts ?
This is exactly what my 1997 gmc k1500 is doing! I am going to look at the starter. If this proves to be the culprit, I will come back and edit this comment. Thanks!
Sooo, what was your conclusion?
@@RealSpiit_4rm_Z3 My boy is still driving it, but he knows the starter will quit one day!
@@Rbenterprises4 changing the starter got the same result as the guy in the video?...if so, this has to be my problem also. I went through my entire ignition system. P1351 code still pop up. The only thing I haven't replaced is the starter. 🤦🏿♂️
@@RealSpiit_4rm_Z3 The starter on my truck is very old and throws that code every now and then. If my boy takes a minute and tries to restart, the starter will eventually catch. I was in the car business years ago before reman starters. We used to turn the starter armatures, and replace the brushes, bushings, starter drive, and leather washer with very few comebacks. It is a lost art I fear!
I’m haveing the same problem. I have to prime the key 3 times and it starts right up. Isn’t that a fuel problem?
I have ALL these symptoms, and now I have full no start after one run stop after engaging reverse?.!
Could it break the ears of the starter holder on the block?
My 97 K2500 is doing the same thing! New coil, new engine control Modular, Battery, new starter, Cap rotor, plugs, and wires nothing helped. took it to a shop no luck.
To bad you didn't scope the starter motor, the dead spot or going bad spots would jump right out at you
Came to say this....a relative compression test would pick this up as a a spike ( short) or dip ( open) that doesnt coincide with a particular cylinder every time.
That's what my blazer has Been doing it had a new battery but it'd crank extremely slow but it was all the time tho
I have a 1997 k1500 vortec (on my channel) Runs great but occasionally will crank, fire, then die only when hot outside temps and engine is heat soaked. Once cooled down with hood open for 20 minutes, starts and runs fine. Previously it would cut out in rpm range when hot. Replaced ignition control module and that problem went away but still have heat soaked hot start issue. Seems to crank normally no slow crank. No codes.
What is fuel pressure when supposed heat soak occurs?
@@SandCarServices thanks for the reply. I’ll have to rent or buy a fuel pressure gauge. Fuel pump was replaced less than 20k miles ago with Delphi pump and new fuel filter. Old pump had low pressure and hard cold starts but didn’t have hot start and die symptoms.
The older vortex with the "spider injector system " had lots of issues. Leaking injectors was one of them. Unfortunately I don't the time thru troubleshooting it.
Hmmm, interesting. I have a 97 Chevy 3500 with 7.4 and had a complete shutdown and a crank but no fire after I pulled over to let the engine cool down after a long pull up a steep set of hills (I know now that was a mistake). Never started until it was towed to a shop and they replaced the ICM. Now starts but only on the second or third try. Still throwing the 1351 code. Looks like I need to change the starter. Thx.
I put a brand new fuel pump brand new fuel filter for a 96 same engine brand new distributor n cap new wires new starter change spark plugs but they get caked very quick n even lil bit of oil not sure if it’s 100% okay tbh because of this long crank issue it does it mostly in the cold weather but even does it some times when it’s warm outside yes once the engine is warm it starts no issue but if it’s cold it just cranks forever n eventually starts but if anyone can give me idea what I should do imma try to pull the plugs again clean them n see if it likes to start automatically but I guess we shall see
Why is it giving me a coil ground problem I have the same code
i changed the starter as soon as it slow cranked. im still having the same problem with this 97 tahoe. it started to turn over much faster after new starter but here we go again its back to cranking slow. also i cant even get it to fire up. code is aslo the same as yours thats the only code showing up on my scanner. please help me before i roll is off a cliff..
Did you find out if it was timing or grounds? Im haveing the SAME problems.
@@tobysteele6394 you need to make for sure your distributor is on correctly. Check and make sure that your on top dead center, drop the distributor in and make sure the direction of the firing pin falls onto 6 if you have v6 or 8 for v8
@@tobysteele6394 also double check your spark an make sure your getting spark before going any further. Remove cylinder 1 spark plug and crank engine. Spark plug must be grounded for spark to come through. If you have no spark check your ignition coil, ignition control module or even distributor cap.
Man i really do appreciate it! God bless you!
@trashman I sure did man. It was a combination of timing was to far off and the starter was giving up on me from trying to learn to set timing and putting to much on the starter and burning it up. Lol we live and we learn 😂
I have the same code, cranks just fine but I’m the morning, I have to crank it two or three times for it to start, it cranks good but won’t start at first try when is cold
Same here. Did you figure out why it struggled on a cold crank/start? I have the same code. On a 1999 4.3L. Replaced the coil and. ICM.
Well, I already replace everything including the starter and still have the same code
Usman. Ron
New sub here loved the video. Think I have something to check out. Thank you
Crackpots lol
Sorry, but a faulty starter is not going to set a P-DTC. P-DTCs are emissions-related. Can you provide us with an update? Has that truck returned to your shop with the P1351?
It absolutely can set a p1351. Any slow/long crank condition on these obs trucks can and will trip a p1351.
1351 DOES NOT HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE STARTER YA RERE
it most certainly can. Quit giving out bad info
CRANK SENSOR
LIKE NOPE