genuinely helped currently ripped opened the engine cuz i thought my cam seals were leaking turns out it was the vvti pulley was leaking but my harmonic pulley was separated so thank you for showing me a good replacement
Your videos are full of great information and advice thanks for all your efforts. My 300 will get the best attention now I know exactly what to do when maintaining my baby. Peace all and respect to the man that designed the first generation IS200, it's a beautifully built car
@@RotaryDaddy i ended up fixing it had a hell of a time getting it off i bought that harmonic balancer remover and it stripped the bolt holes on the balancer so i had to go buy a heavy duty one that clasps on the outside and with a lil pb blaster it popped off
to break off the harmonic balancer bolt, i layed on top of the car and pressed my feet against the breaker bar. it came out with ease and took 3 seconds 😂
Yes this is the part I was having trouble with but you mentioned an easy hack: putting it in 5th gear! I tried it initially in 1st gear and there was still too much play, then I tried what you said in passing: sat her in 5th, breaker bar + extension and some muscle - POP finally broke it! Tried almost every other method, this was the only one where I could gain the right leverage without breaking anything else 😅 Thanks you! Wish I had this 3 weeks ago when i first ordered parts, but at least now I know how to replace it again in the future!
@@piraterick488 nope, didn't work for me - that bolt was torqued to 241ftlbs almost 20 years ago and was never removed since...bumping the starter did nothing for it. Hence why I mentioned above that this guy had a great idea putting it in 5th gear!
I followed this video exactly, I ordered all those parts / tools (except I chose a $95 balancer instead of the $500 one shown)......I just finished, right now - perfect video. Thank you so much. 2000 Lexus GS 300. FYI, My harmonic pully fully separated and is on the road somewhere along with my snapped belt....fortunately it didn't take out my fans and radiator.
@@iskiusmi3878 No, the one that came with the car did. It was 23 years old, and I found a $95 balancer on Amazon and replaced it with that. It works great. Here's the one I ordered: SCITOO 594-736 Harmonic Balancer Crankshaft Pulley
For the crank bolt, use this crack method where you lift the car and have the breaker bar at in angle to be moved upward when you lower the car slowly.
Doesn't work on this car from what I've tried and seen! This bolt is INSANELY hard to get off unless You're able to brace it up like our friend here showed us. Otherwise the crankshaft just keeps spinning!
mine just failed yesterday,ordered the oem crank pulley for my sc3 and it required my vin,just saw this video and imma cancle the order to get the fluidampr one,great video,thank you!
Nice vid, i need to do a full timing belt, seals service on my is300, was thinking about the fluid damper as well, notice a different in weight between old and new? How about overall drivability?
me and my dad did this job together last year and pulled it off! we did the bump starter method to remove that damn bolt, other than that it wasnt bad.
I decided to swap in all new stuff when I changed my timing belt, and the crank pulley bolt was tremendously tight and pulling it was awesome in mid-July scorching heat. I went with Dayco street performance pulley and my car is vibrating less, guess it was in time before failure
Hi Irvin. This video inspired to finally do it myself. But i need to know the rest of the tools you have. Like the long bars you used to remove it, and the electronic wrench you used to tighten it? I already bought the rest of the tools you mentioned. Thank you!
I kept on bumping into articles that 2jz needs 291ft lbs to tighten the balancer. There was no torque wrench available unless I get a 700ft lbs torque wrench. 239ft lbs sounds more manageable. I have 1.5JZ GTE
I put one breaker bar against the pavement, the one attached to the holder tool, then used a 4ft cheater bar on the breaker bar to loosen it. Same concept for tightening. I just slowly lowered the car toward the ground until there was tension on the breaker bar attached to the holder tool. I tried the frame rails but the condenser line was in the way on my is300. I couldn't imagine holding one breaker bar on the holder tool and another to break the bolt loose. But then again i'm not exactly a body builder. Just throwing this out there for anyone that might have trouble. The 4ft cheater pipe really made a difference though seems ridiculous but it worked.
To save you some time, you dont need to remove the radiator. Remove the upper radiator hose, unbolt the fan shrowd and lift it up. That should let you lift it enough to give you enough room for a puller etc.
There’s a lot of things I would do differently if I wasn’t filming everything 😅 that being said I feel like the radiator is quicker to take out than just the fans, not to mention a bit safer to have out of there so you don’t hit it with the puller. To each their own but that’s my take on it 🤘🏼
You should always click a Tq wrench twice That initial lunge will through off torque spec, on a damper it's not gonna be enough to matter but on your cams, where the tolerance is much tighter and extremely important. You would be likely to lock a cam up. D series Honda motors call for 8 ft lbs on the cams. I took it to 9;ft lbs and I couldn't turn the cam by hand and was hard to turn with a wrench dropped it 1 and it spun as freely as it should. Just saying. It never hurts too double check. But fantastic video brother. I know all about the 2jz crank bolt 😬😡 lol
Doesn't always work, especially with this INSANE bolt! I saw one guy do it with our car, and that's been an isolated case. This is the only way I've had success, except I put it in 5th gear then breaker bar + extension to break it off!
I just discovered that my crankshaft pulley has been separated as you've explained. As a result of this hapenning, could this be a possibility as to why my serpentine belt is loose and squealing? I just replaced my serpentine belt and my belt tensioner but I noticed that the tensioner pulley was a little too close to the power-steering pulley, how do I resolve that as well?
@@rcmt2965 that's a good question lol that does make a difference being auto. I just put mine in gear with the e brake on but with an auto I may use a chain wrench with a piece of belt under the teeth to protect the pulley.
Not really, I'm sure you could do some measurements but I'm not aware of any specifications for it anywhere. I usually just replace them if the car is in the 150k+ range and never had it replaced
Yes this is the part I was having trouble with but he mentioned an easy hack: putting it in 5th gear! I tried it initially in 1st gear and there was still too much play, then I tried what he said: sat her in 5th, breaker bar + extension and some muscle - POP finally broke it! Tried almost every other method, this was the only one where I could gain the right leverage without breaking anything else 😅
Mine's a manual, I should have said something lol I just threw mine in gear and put the parking brake on, that being said, normally using a chain wrench will be good enough to hold it, just make sure to use a scrap piece of belt to go between the pulley and the wrench so it doesn't damage the ribs
I put mine in gear and set the e-brake. Bit easier with mine being a manual but with auto's I'd use a chain wrench and an old piece of belt to protect the new pulley
The same fucking shit happened to me my harmonic balance or just shut off and hit my hood and left a dent luckily I was parked right outside of my school when I was doing automotive so it couldn’t of been any better time for that to happen just pulled around and threw it on the lift👌💯
Not a bad option depending on the application. Jz's are internally balanced so no need to worry on normal builds. That being said if you are looking to run pretty high rpms then something like a fluid damper or an ati super damper would be a better option
Just ripped apart my 300 to do timing belt front main and cam seals, and stumbled upon a fluidampr already installed. Does anyone know how to take the fluidampr off? Since the stock crank pulley holder tool won't work. 01 auto.
Yeah man, it's definitely weird when the actually go. I had a buddy that lost power steering and was freaking out cause he thought his car was broken 😂
Hard to say. Depends on what you want, the bmw will likely be faster and 240k miles is getting pretty up there. In this case I'd probably side towards the bmw but if it was me I'd be buying the is300 lol
Normally at work I use a chain wrench around the pulley with a section of old belt to protect the pulley. Hard with the fluidampr since it doesn't have the same holes for the installation tool
My car’s a manual so I put it in gear and threw the parking brake on. On an auto a chain wrench around the crank pulley is what I usually use but make sure you use a piece of old belt between the wrench and the pulley so it doesn’t damage the ribs amzn.to/3JcOIEy Something like this
@@RotaryDaddy huge! Thank you for your fast response. I’ve got a manual as well so I’ll leave it in gear with the e break on. What gear you leave it in?
@@aidansuskic8736 highest gear. You want the engine to transfer the least amount of torque possible. Just make sure e brake is tight and chock the wheels
And if you could answer me one more thing. I see you have the upper timing cover off. My plan is before removing my old pulley is to line it up at top dead center. From there I’ll throw the Fluidampr on along the same key path and torque from there (and if all goes well the I’ll have it installed without having altered the timing). Am I missing something g anything here? Want to avoid making a huge mistake.
@@aidansuskic8736 the balancer has nothing to do with the timing. I only had that stuff off because I was doing other stuff while I was in there. As long as you get the key in the key way you’re good, don’t have to touch belt or tensioner so everything stays the same
I'd check it for cracks and wear. I have also seen the harmonic balancers separate causing the belt to stop moving and make a squeaking noise, that and tensioners or idlers would be the first things id be checking
@@RotaryDaddy it's been a reliable car and I love the 2JZ such and iconic engine. I'm a body work guy but I do small mechanical things here and there. How do I check the pulleys..the belts are not really old..
@@RotaryDaddy Thanks bud. My belt is squeezing today the belt came off the lower power steering pulley. I had to readjust it. Wow the pully barely wanted to move
genuinely helped currently ripped opened the engine cuz i thought my cam seals were leaking turns out it was the vvti pulley was leaking but my harmonic pulley was separated so thank you for showing me a good replacement
Your videos are full of great information and advice thanks for all your efforts. My 300 will get the best attention now I know exactly what to do when maintaining my baby. Peace all and respect to the man that designed the first generation IS200, it's a beautifully built car
I appreciate you, bro! These cars hold a special place in my heart, so I love spreading information that'll keep em on the road as long as possible 🤘🏼
thanks for the vid gonna be fixing mine this weekend! pulley popped off on my drive home
Rough lol
@@RotaryDaddy i ended up fixing it had a hell of a time getting it off i bought that harmonic balancer remover and it stripped the bolt holes on the balancer so i had to go buy a heavy duty one that clasps on the outside and with a lil pb blaster it popped off
to break off the harmonic balancer bolt, i layed on top of the car and pressed my feet against the breaker bar. it came out with ease and took 3 seconds 😂
Like that !?
Yes this is the part I was having trouble with but you mentioned an easy hack: putting it in 5th gear! I tried it initially in 1st gear and there was still too much play, then I tried what you said in passing: sat her in 5th, breaker bar + extension and some muscle - POP finally broke it! Tried almost every other method, this was the only one where I could gain the right leverage without breaking anything else 😅
Thanks you! Wish I had this 3 weeks ago when i first ordered parts, but at least now I know how to replace it again in the future!
i used a beaker bar up against the frame rail and just bumped the starter. loosened it no problem
@@piraterick488 nope, didn't work for me - that bolt was torqued to 241ftlbs almost 20 years ago and was never removed since...bumping the starter did nothing for it. Hence why I mentioned above that this guy had a great idea putting it in 5th gear!
I followed this video exactly, I ordered all those parts / tools (except I chose a $95 balancer instead of the $500 one shown)......I just finished, right now - perfect video. Thank you so much. 2000 Lexus GS 300.
FYI, My harmonic pully fully separated and is on the road somewhere along with my snapped belt....fortunately it didn't take out my fans and radiator.
so the 95 dollar one separated?
because i was gonna do exactly what you did but i don’t know if you meant that the old one flew or the 95$ one
@@iskiusmi3878 No, the one that came with the car did. It was 23 years old, and I found a $95 balancer on Amazon and replaced it with that. It works great.
Here's the one I ordered: SCITOO 594-736 Harmonic Balancer Crankshaft Pulley
@@hieyeque1 thank you very much
For the crank bolt, use this crack method where you lift the car and have the breaker bar at in angle to be moved upward when you lower the car slowly.
Doesn't work on this car from what I've tried and seen! This bolt is INSANELY hard to get off unless You're able to brace it up like our friend here showed us. Otherwise the crankshaft just keeps spinning!
mine just failed yesterday,ordered the oem crank pulley for my sc3 and it required my vin,just saw this video and imma cancle the order to get the fluidampr one,great video,thank you!
hillarious too! lol
How much was the OEM compared to the Fluidamper?
@@MakersMike I bought the fluidampr one for around $350 but it’s for my SC300 I’m sure they cost the same tho
So funny to see this video, decided to get one a while back after noticing the stock one looked like a burnt cookie
Had that bitch on broil for just a bit too long 😂
Nice vid, i need to do a full timing belt, seals service on my is300, was thinking about the fluid damper as well, notice a different in weight between old and new? How about overall drivability?
Perfect time to do it! About the same weight I believe and no change to drivability.
me and my dad did this job together last year and pulled it off! we did the bump starter method to remove that damn bolt, other than that it wasnt bad.
I'm always too scared to try that method but I've definitely seen it work! Good on you bro! 🤘🏼
so glad mine went out in my parking spot and not on the road to work or something that wouldve been a nightmare
I decided to swap in all new stuff when I changed my timing belt, and the crank pulley bolt was tremendously tight and pulling it was awesome in mid-July scorching heat. I went with Dayco street performance pulley and my car is vibrating less, guess it was in time before failure
Sounds like you got it in just in time 🤘🏼🤘🏼
How do you like the street performance pulley?
Like what milage is about to go bad? I mean my beauty is close to 350k miles and still running strong
Started my is300 today heard a metal clank my harmonic balancer was on the ground thankfully didn’t go thru the rad but it did separate completely
Hi Irvin. This video inspired to finally do it myself. But i need to know the rest of the tools you have. Like the long bars you used to remove it, and the electronic wrench you used to tighten it? I already bought the rest of the tools you mentioned. Thank you!
Description is updated! 🤘
@@RotaryDaddy thanks for the update. Already got those too! Im doing it this weekend hopefully. Did you use any loctite on the damper bolt?
@hanzo935 absolutely not! Just torque it to the spec and that's all you'll need. If you locktite it on you'll never get it off again lol
I kept on bumping into articles that 2jz needs 291ft lbs to tighten the balancer. There was no torque wrench available unless I get a 700ft lbs torque wrench. 239ft lbs sounds more manageable. I have 1.5JZ GTE
Really glad I found your channel, lots of helpful videos for my is300.
Thanks! I appreciate you watching 🤘🏼🤘🏼
Same
Lol, watching you struggle with that bolt was😅
I GOTTA start hitting the gym a bit more 😂
fudge, I missed this video. I already changed my belts, water pump, I thought the AC compressor was the only thing left.
😨
I put one breaker bar against the pavement, the one attached to the holder tool, then used a 4ft cheater bar on the breaker bar to loosen it. Same concept for tightening. I just slowly lowered the car toward the ground until there was tension on the breaker bar attached to the holder tool. I tried the frame rails but the condenser line was in the way on my is300. I couldn't imagine holding one breaker bar on the holder tool and another to break the bolt loose. But then again i'm not exactly a body builder. Just throwing this out there for anyone that might have trouble. The 4ft cheater pipe really made a difference though seems ridiculous but it worked.
That's actually a super good idea lol might have to try that next time!
How do you time it?
To save you some time, you dont need to remove the radiator. Remove the upper radiator hose, unbolt the fan shrowd and lift it up. That should let you lift it enough to give you enough room for a puller etc.
There’s a lot of things I would do differently if I wasn’t filming everything 😅 that being said I feel like the radiator is quicker to take out than just the fans, not to mention a bit safer to have out of there so you don’t hit it with the puller. To each their own but that’s my take on it 🤘🏼
You should always click a Tq wrench twice That initial lunge will through off torque spec, on a damper it's not gonna be enough to matter but on your cams, where the tolerance is much tighter and extremely important. You would be likely to lock a cam up. D series Honda motors call for 8 ft lbs on the cams. I took it to 9;ft lbs and I couldn't turn the cam by hand and was hard to turn with a wrench dropped it 1 and it spun as freely as it should. Just saying. It never hurts too double check. But fantastic video brother. I know all about the 2jz crank bolt 😬😡 lol
How did you torque the bolt without turning the motor?
6:25 you can place breaker ext bar handle on the floor to get leverage using car’s weight then crank the engine for 1 sec or less.
Doesn't always work, especially with this INSANE bolt! I saw one guy do it with our car, and that's been an isolated case. This is the only way I've had success, except I put it in 5th gear then breaker bar + extension to break it off!
Taking off my crank pulley bolt went exactly the same way!!!
🤣🤣🤣 sweet release! The struggle is real🤣🤣🤣
They can never make it easy lol
How did you stop the crank from spinning when torqueing it down?
Yeah, I wanna know too. I put 2 bolts in and used a pry bar to hold it it, but it bent the bolts, I need a better method for next time 😂
I just discovered that my crankshaft pulley has been separated as you've explained. As a result of this hapenning, could this be a possibility as to why my serpentine belt is loose and squealing? I just replaced my serpentine belt and my belt tensioner but I noticed that the tensioner pulley was a little too close to the power-steering pulley, how do I resolve that as well?
6:01 makes impact gun noises 😂😂 “BAH BAH”
Gotta channel my inner Ingersoll-rand 😂
Great video!! However mines an auto is there anything that I have to do differently. And how do you ensure that the engine doesn’t go out of timing
Negative, as long as you don't pull your timing belt tensioner you will not be affecting anything timing related.
@@RotaryDaddy Awesome thank you. Much appreciated
@@RotaryDaddy oh also one last thing. What method did you use to hold the new fluid damper pulley to tighten the bolt
@@rcmt2965 that's a good question lol that does make a difference being auto. I just put mine in gear with the e brake on but with an auto I may use a chain wrench with a piece of belt under the teeth to protect the pulley.
@@RotaryDaddy Got it ok. I’ll try that. Thanks for the help
Definitely need to do this myself at some point... Titan crank pulley incoming... xD
Dude, I just helped Marco the other day get his crank pulley off because his was so f-ing tight!
Yeah man they get ridiculous sometimes! My little noodle boy arms can hardly keep up
Hello nice video! Is there way to test if your harmonic balancer is going bad ?
Not really, I'm sure you could do some measurements but I'm not aware of any specifications for it anywhere. I usually just replace them if the car is in the 150k+ range and never had it replaced
So this happened to me yesterday, i watched it roll away but mainly the belt stayed on surprisingly and made it home which was an hour away
What did you use to hold the crank from turning when you tighten it ?
Yes this is the part I was having trouble with but he mentioned an easy hack: putting it in 5th gear! I tried it initially in 1st gear and there was still too much play, then I tried what he said: sat her in 5th, breaker bar + extension and some muscle - POP finally broke it! Tried almost every other method, this was the only one where I could gain the right leverage without breaking anything else 😅
Before the replacement, did you have chirping noise just exactly at around 1.5k rpm and 2.1k rpm? (Not coming from the belt, I just replaced it :( )
@@erbsrn1620 mine failed while I was changing the belt so I didn’t get the noise but that is a common symptom.
@@RotaryDaddy thanks for the quick reply! I will change it to fluidampr whilst changing the timing belt. Thanks for the video!🤍
Howd you tighten it without having the crankshaft move?? Did you lock your cams?
I’m wondering the same thing :(
Mine's a manual, I should have said something lol I just threw mine in gear and put the parking brake on, that being said, normally using a chain wrench will be good enough to hold it, just make sure to use a scrap piece of belt to go between the pulley and the wrench so it doesn't damage the ribs
Bro you keep using your stock a accesories belt?
Very helpful thanks!
Please help how do you tighten back the fluidampr 2jz? What method did you use to tighten it. You didn't show it in the video. I'm stuck
I put mine in gear and set the e-brake. Bit easier with mine being a manual but with auto's I'd use a chain wrench and an old piece of belt to protect the new pulley
It's actually three pieces. I just blew the large back plate portion off of mine... it sucked.
Awesome video 🤙🏾
Thanks for watching!
The same fucking shit happened to me my harmonic balance or just shut off and hit my hood and left a dent luckily I was parked right outside of my school when I was doing automotive so it couldn’t of been any better time for that to happen just pulled around and threw it on the lift👌💯
Sucks that it happened but best place for it to happen for sure!
Is it the same for a 3GRFSE-6 engine
What’s torque spec on 1999 Lexus gs300
Hey bro my pulley fell off and I installed a new one now my car is overheating you think my engine is still good
Which damper is one bro I see that their is a under driver pulley and a Internal option please help ?
opinions on the billet crank pulley from driftmotion?
Not a bad option depending on the application. Jz's are internally balanced so no need to worry on normal builds. That being said if you are looking to run pretty high rpms then something like a fluid damper or an ati super damper would be a better option
Whoa, you’ve SEEN noises?! Haha just kidding! 😆
I have VERY good vision 😉
when you was gonna tighten the bolt to the fluidamper, how did you stop then engine to rotate?
I got lucky cause my car is a manual so I can just throw it in gear and put the e brake on
For auto's I would use a chain wrench with a section of old belt to protect the pulley
Just ripped apart my 300 to do timing belt front main and cam seals, and stumbled upon a fluidampr already installed. Does anyone know how to take the fluidampr off? Since the stock crank pulley holder tool won't work. 01 auto.
mine came apart while driving but the belt stayed on the inner section somehow and i made it home
That's so lucky, I've seen em shred belts, put holes in radiators and do all kinds of other damage.
Mine came apart while parking biggest clue was it felt like the clutch was slipping
Yeah man, it's definitely weird when the actually go. I had a buddy that lost power steering and was freaking out cause he thought his car was broken 😂
I use the brake bar on floor and start foe a sec a lot easier
Yo bro honestly what u recommend me , a 150k ish miles bmw 328i 2008 or 2003 is300 with 240ish both seem well kept and both around 5k
Hard to say. Depends on what you want, the bmw will likely be faster and 240k miles is getting pretty up there. In this case I'd probably side towards the bmw but if it was me I'd be buying the is300 lol
How do you torque the bolt without spinning the motor, on an Auto Aristo?
Normally at work I use a chain wrench around the pulley with a section of old belt to protect the pulley. Hard with the fluidampr since it doesn't have the same holes for the installation tool
@@RotaryDaddyOkay thank you!
How did you torque it without turning the engine over.
My car’s a manual so I put it in gear and threw the parking brake on. On an auto a chain wrench around the crank pulley is what I usually use but make sure you use a piece of old belt between the wrench and the pulley so it doesn’t damage the ribs
amzn.to/3JcOIEy
Something like this
@@RotaryDaddy huge! Thank you for your fast response. I’ve got a manual as well so I’ll leave it in gear with the e break on. What gear you leave it in?
@@aidansuskic8736 highest gear. You want the engine to transfer the least amount of torque possible. Just make sure e brake is tight and chock the wheels
And if you could answer me one more thing. I see you have the upper timing cover off. My plan is before removing my old pulley is to line it up at top dead center. From there I’ll throw the Fluidampr on along the same key path and torque from there (and if all goes well the I’ll have it installed without having altered the timing). Am I missing something g anything here? Want to avoid making a huge mistake.
@@aidansuskic8736 the balancer has nothing to do with the timing. I only had that stuff off because I was doing other stuff while I was in there. As long as you get the key in the key way you’re good, don’t have to touch belt or tensioner so everything stays the same
I just replaced my with the one u replaced your with and now my engine is knocking . Why is this happening? Need help what do I do next .
Ok this is a rough one. Did you ONLY do the fluidampr? No other parts replacement?
my belt is squealing, I am trying to find out what it might be.
I'd check it for cracks and wear. I have also seen the harmonic balancers separate causing the belt to stop moving and make a squeaking noise, that and tensioners or idlers would be the first things id be checking
@@RotaryDaddy it's been a reliable car and I love the 2JZ such and iconic engine. I'm a body work guy but I do small mechanical things here and there. How do I check the pulleys..the belts are not really old..
link to the harmonic balancer you're using
Its there, should be the first amazon link for the fluidampr in the description
@@RotaryDaddy Thanks bud. My belt is squeezing today the belt came off the lower power steering pulley. I had to readjust it. Wow the pully barely wanted to move
@JohnRamboSS which pulley didn't want to move? The power steering pump?
@@RotaryDaddy I just posted up a quick video to show you. When you can take a look let me know what you think. Thank you for your help.
@JohnRamboSS that's your a/c compressor, what happens when you turn your a/c on?
Mine rotted out and fell off as I was driving to library
Always the worst times 🤦🏽♂️
Are u in Cali?
I only took the fan off lol
I filmed like 3 videos at the same time lol had to take the rad out for the ac compressor
@Irvin Ortega you got to have 2 people to do that job lol it so tight lol and I did the crack pully on the bottom
i need your info so i can call you with endless is300 questions
fr lol