Ben, those fittings on the pigtail, between the tank vapor valve and the red high pressure regulator are left hand thread! Hello from north east Montana. 10 miles from the Canadian border.
I just want to say Thank you. I recently came across your channel and I'm hooked. I love the way you explain and go through each project. Keep up the awesome work!
Great video (as always)! One additional note about plugging a disconnected line is that you obviously want to tape and paste it but also go through the same bubble check with the valve, it's associated with, open to make sure that in fact that connection has the integrity in case that valve does get open by mistake
For that filler leak, they make a stacker fill valve that screws over the existing one by hand, your propane delivery driver should have them on the truck, if it’s your tank, they will still probably sell you one, but can also likely buy one although can’t recall the actual name.
Clarification: The first B in B.L.E.V.E. means BOILING. This only happens when the tank is exposed to high heat. The liquid boils and expands faster than the relief system can vent so the tank will rupture. (explosion) Usually this heat is from a fire... 'nuff said, right? That said, removing a fitting from the tank will cause a massive leak of propane. End result is flammable vapor that hangs on the ground like a fog, looking for an ignition source.... but not making a B.L.E.V.E. How much vapor? A tank like that could send a cloud a quarter mile down wind.... and it can all go boom in a second or two. Can you run a quarter mile in two seconds?
Good efort, but that part about "BLEVE", there a Great description, a few statements before mine. Also, talk about the tank. Propane is stored in a "pressurised tank". Before any valves or relief can be removed, the tank MUST be Depressured FIRST! I've seen tank cars overfilled, and relive through a 6-inch valve with no fire, you just get to a shut-off Quikly! It kinda looks like an "Old Faithful guizer. Keep up the good work.
Hi Benjamin---this is the video I was looking for all over the place. I have a leak on the gauge on a 1000 gallon tank. Gauge shows 0 but if you open the valve (no regulator on it at the moment) it really blows out of there forcefully. What wisdom do you (or anyone else) have for this situation? I have not called the propane dealer to see what they would suggest. I felt more comfortable with you after watching your videos on several topics. Thanks for your help. Jesus bless.
Aren't all the fittings NPT? Pretty much keep snugging them up until the leak stops. Also, the valve leaking a little is not a big deal hence the cap that's there.
I had a main tank regulator go bad, it started vibrating loudly and filled the air with the stink smell. There was no question where the leak was, but there was a question of did I want to turn off the valve or let the professionals handle it. When I turned off the valve, my only real fear was creating a spark when opening the steel cover on the top of the tank.
That's called the 1st Stage Regulator. Do not turn off the valve unless instructed to do so by the propane company. You can really screw things up for them when you shut the valve.
I always thought you’d smell it and wouldn’t need soapy water to find it. Is there a point where they leak so slowly you can’t smell it? Great timing, just bought a place on propane, Thx.
@@piquat1 If your LP copper pipe is exposed where it goes into the ground, be careful with the weedeater. I put about a foot of split pvc tube over mine to protect it.
@@JasonW. anything exposed like that you should assume that somebody who's going to be in your yard is not going to have nearly the care that you would have and whether you put wooden stakes in front of it sleeve it with foam or PVC or PEX or old garden hose the more protection and warning the better many times when I'm working with gas or water lines I'll put police tape along with it that way if a screw or a cut or anything you have a good chance of that getting pulled out and being seen before they can really do some damage
@@tapalmer99 I have some extra bright green water hose (Flexzilla) that I could put over the pvc (which gets brittle in the sun). Thanks for the idea! My pipe runs down from the regulator into the ground below the tank, so it is only a little bit exposed. But yes, the yard fertilizer guys fly their stuff through there like they are in NASCAR dirt track.
@@cole9392: Striking two steel wrenches together can produce a spark, as can dropping one onto pavement or masonry. Steel tools are probably OK for occasional work, but for everyday use the odds will eventually go bad.
two regulator system is for a little distance without much pressure drop on a small pipe. The regulator at the tank goes from tank pressure down to 10 PSI. The regulator by the building drops it to a working pressure of around 12 inches water column. (aprox 1/2 psi) Most of this has to do with code compliance and safety, plus the economics (cost) of the entire system. There are other systems with different pressures, but this is the most common.
@@stephens5812 ... BTW, that orange line in the video (inside the building) is not connected to the gas system. It appears to be for use with compressed air. I know. Retired fire service instructor with a gas / oil license. The code violation I see is there's no gas valve outside the building BEFORE the low-pressure regulator and BEFORE it enters the building. Of course, the installation is old enough that the code has probably changed since it was put there 40 years ago.
There is NO vacuum on a propane system! There may be a slight vacuum on an engine powered by propane, but that will be within the unit itself. (power / electric generators have this)
First of all that fitting you're tightening does not use piped sealant second of all where is Lincoln has nothing to do with tightening it it's leaking from the top around. The rubber stopper needs to be rebuilt
This video is for educational purposes. I don't recommend messing with gas systems unless you are qualified and experienced to do so.
50/50 mix of normal Dawn dish soap also works great on NG, LP, and compressor air lines.
Thanks for all the great videos you produce! In a sea of TH-cam nonsense, it's so great to have really informative videos!
Ben, those fittings on the pigtail, between the tank vapor valve and the red high pressure regulator are left hand thread!
Hello from north east Montana.
10 miles from the Canadian border.
I was going to say the same thing Darrel! Aren't you at Rural Propane?
@@cole9392 No.
Hello from north east Montana.
10 miles from the Canadian border.
Opheim.
Too awesome. The two Knipex adjustable pliers you hold up at the beginning are the EXACT two I carry around on all jobs. Great minds think alike.
I just want to say Thank you. I recently came across your channel and I'm hooked. I love the way you explain and go through each project. Keep up the awesome work!
Great video (as always)! One additional note about plugging a disconnected line is that you obviously want to tape and paste it but also go through the same bubble check with the valve, it's associated with, open to make sure that in fact that connection has the integrity in case that valve does get open by mistake
For that filler leak, they make a stacker fill valve that screws over the existing one by hand, your propane delivery driver should have them on the truck, if it’s your tank, they will still probably sell you one, but can also likely buy one although can’t recall the actual name.
Depends on the brand. Are you talking about a Chek-Lock?
Clarification: The first B in B.L.E.V.E. means BOILING. This only happens when the tank is exposed to high heat. The liquid boils and expands faster than the relief system can vent so the tank will rupture. (explosion) Usually this heat is from a fire... 'nuff said, right? That said, removing a fitting from the tank will cause a massive leak of propane. End result is flammable vapor that hangs on the ground like a fog, looking for an ignition source.... but not making a B.L.E.V.E. How much vapor? A tank like that could send a cloud a quarter mile down wind.... and it can all go boom in a second or two. Can you run a quarter mile in two seconds?
i can't run quarter mile in two seconds but i can close my eyes in 1 second the other kiss myself goodbye HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA 💥
Good efort, but that part about "BLEVE", there a Great description, a few statements before mine. Also, talk about the tank. Propane is stored in a "pressurised tank". Before any valves or relief can be removed, the tank MUST be Depressured FIRST! I've seen tank cars overfilled, and relive through a 6-inch valve with no fire, you just get to a shut-off Quikly! It kinda looks like an "Old Faithful guizer. Keep up the good work.
Is that the Knipex Pliers Wrench in the thumbnail? Kickass tool!
You bet!
Hi Benjamin---this is the video I was looking for all over the place.
I have a leak on the gauge on a 1000 gallon tank. Gauge shows 0 but if you open the valve (no regulator on it at the moment) it really blows out of there forcefully.
What wisdom do you (or anyone else) have for this situation?
I have not called the propane dealer to see what they would suggest. I felt more comfortable with you after watching your videos on several topics.
Thanks for your help. Jesus bless.
Aren't all the fittings NPT? Pretty much keep snugging them up until the leak stops. Also, the valve leaking a little is not a big deal hence the cap that's there.
Thank you.
I had a main tank regulator go bad, it started vibrating loudly and filled the air with the stink smell.
There was no question where the leak was, but there was a question of did I want to turn off the valve or let the professionals handle it.
When I turned off the valve, my only real fear was creating a spark when opening the steel cover on the top of the tank.
That's called the 1st Stage Regulator. Do not turn off the valve unless instructed to do so by the propane company. You can really screw things up for them when you shut the valve.
I always thought you’d smell it and wouldn’t need soapy water to find it. Is there a point where they leak so slowly you can’t smell it?
Great timing, just bought a place on propane, Thx.
The smell will fill the area, in my case about 75x50 ft area. But the smell won't pinpoint where the leak is.
@@JasonW. Ahhh, OK thanks.
@@piquat1 If your LP copper pipe is exposed where it goes into the ground, be careful with the weedeater. I put about a foot of split pvc tube over mine to protect it.
@@JasonW. anything exposed like that you should assume that somebody who's going to be in your yard is not going to have nearly the care that you would have and whether you put wooden stakes in front of it sleeve it with foam or PVC or PEX or old garden hose the more protection and warning the better many times when I'm working with gas or water lines I'll put police tape along with it that way if a screw or a cut or anything you have a good chance of that getting pulled out and being seen before they can really do some damage
@@tapalmer99 I have some extra bright green water hose (Flexzilla) that I could put over the pvc (which gets brittle in the sun). Thanks for the idea!
My pipe runs down from the regulator into the ground below the tank, so it is only a little bit exposed. But yes, the yard fertilizer guys fly their stuff through there like they are in NASCAR dirt track.
Excellent video....just an FYI....Knipex is actually pronounced Kah Nip Ex. Great tools, I will definitely agree there.
What if the leak is under the gauge? Is there a special kind of caulk or sealant we should use?
If you do lots of gas work, it would be wise to invest in some non-sparking (bronze, etc.) hand tools.
Why? Tanks are usually painted and the fittings are brass.
@@cole9392: Striking two steel wrenches together can produce a spark, as can dropping one onto pavement or masonry. Steel tools are probably OK for occasional work, but for everyday use the odds will eventually go bad.
U crazy
Two pressure regulations. Could use an explanation of their function.
“Never want to rely on the valve being turner off.”
two regulator system is for a little distance without much pressure drop on a small pipe. The regulator at the tank goes from tank pressure down to 10 PSI. The regulator by the building drops it to a working pressure of around 12 inches water column. (aprox 1/2 psi) Most of this has to do with code compliance and safety, plus the economics (cost) of the entire system. There are other systems with different pressures, but this is the most common.
@@rupe53 Fisher goes to 10psi. Other brands are at 15psi. So, 8-15psi from the 1st Stage Regulator is what I have seen depending on brand.
Code volition
orange color fule line is for fule oil
Not gas.
gas would be yellow plastic jacket on the line.
I know. I'm a fire fighter.
@@stephens5812 ... BTW, that orange line in the video (inside the building) is not connected to the gas system. It appears to be for use with compressed air. I know. Retired fire service instructor with a gas / oil license. The code violation I see is there's no gas valve outside the building BEFORE the low-pressure regulator and BEFORE it enters the building. Of course, the installation is old enough that the code has probably changed since it was put there 40 years ago.
Important!!! Do not use bubble solution (0:46) on any type of system where you would have a vacuum you'll just end up contaminating it!!!
There is NO vacuum on a propane system! There may be a slight vacuum on an engine powered by propane, but that will be within the unit itself. (power / electric generators have this)
If my tank is empty, how do I replace/repair my gas valve on the tank?
Awesome sauce
Just wait until it's -44F...no vapor pressure then. Do your repairs at -44F
Was that the crickets in ur head? Or mine? They almost sound the same . . . An I'm in Georgia!🤣
First of all that fitting you're tightening does not use piped sealant second of all where is Lincoln has nothing to do with tightening it it's leaking from the top around. The rubber stopper needs to be rebuilt
A match will find a leak also 🔥😎
True but probably not the best option. I know a lot of old HVAC guys that did it that way!
@@BenjaminSahlstrom I have seen my Grandfather use a match. I am too chicken to try that myself.
You can actually for a small leak
That's called the Darwin leak detection method. Highly recommended for use in crawl spaces and indoor areas.
@@Robnord1 For an explosion to occur the smell would have to be intense. At that point nobody's lighting a match.
then Make a spark
KaaaBoom!
Ill just weld it shut ;)
? ???????
💪CHANNELLOCK brand for me plus a real crescent wrench, will look into Knipex 👍
Thank you.