Had some JPs comps many years ago, they make awesome products for a fair price! Support these companies for their hard work on delivering great products w/o breaking the bank!
Regarding the last method shown, somehow it would seem a better idea to remove material from the muzzle break rather than cutting away on the barrel. Modify the less expensive piece and keep the barrel standard. Let me know if I am missing something.
Because of the OD of the muzzle brake changes due to its shape, if you cut away on the brake, the OD of the brake and the OD of the barrel would not match
Don't get me wrong as I have JP something on almost every "project" I own , but thought it was funny when he said it eliminates jump just as it jumps then edit out the last turn he did on it almost makes you wonder if it jumped again 🤔 🤣 🤣
Where do I find one of those “JP Comp Wrench” - or any comp wrench for that matter? Is that even a thing? I’ve been looking all over and can’t find any. Thanks!
Will this guide work in removing on pin and welded (as per info in the website) comp for the like of JP-5? I intend to switch between comp and suppressor with it
Good video, but it is better to do muzzle work with a barrel vice? Not you, but novice builders may accidentally torque too hard one way or the other and bust the sleeve of the end of the barrel. I've seen it happen a few times. A barrel vice assures no damage will occur to the upper or the barrel in the case of over torquing ; mostly when getting a stuck device off the barrel, or one that was for some reason thread locked.
Hello Dustin, thank you for this very informative video. What is your opinion on threading "sporter" barrels on high power rifles like a 300 win mag? The skinny barrels of these guns lots of times are hardly thick enough to thread of 5/8-24 UNEF. And even if you can, you're not left with much of a shoulder to bud up against. Threading 1/2-28 on these rifles leaves one with a very marginal wall thickness creating a potential dangerous situation with these high powered rifles. I'm very curious to hear how you deal with these situations?
What happened with the double crush washer link in the description below?! lmao What about the "peel washer"? I've never even heard of this wizardry until now. I'm assuming it's basically a washer made up of shim layers that can be peeled away one at a time, or so it seemed. Seeing as how this is an older video (based on Dustin's level of discomfort in front of the camera compared to more recent videos) I wonder if the "peel washer" technology has since been phased out or proved problematic in some way. Thanks for the demos, and keep that juicy JP content a comin!
How do you square your recommendation to use blue Loctite with the fact that it has a maximum operating temperature of 150c/300f and an AR15 barrel can easily exceed that during even moderately heavy use?
We haven't had any issues with this in our 25+ years of being opened. We do understand what you are talking about, but this has worked great for us so far
You end up pre loading tension into the barrel by tightening it like that. As the metal expands it twists....thus changing the effects of the brake as well as accuracy. Just saying.
Hey Dustin. Nice video. I'm right-handed, so I time my comps with a slight tilt toward the one o'clock position instead of perfectly level. This helps to minimize the dot movement to the right. I learned this tip from a Jerry Miculek video. Is it possible for your to accommodate this? I recently ordered a JP 14.5 9mm barrel with comp pinned/welded. By the way, do you make a titanium comp in 9mm? Thanks.
@@JPRifles it’s fine 100% with the factory Daniel defense brake/flash hider but seems to me it’s dumpin so much gas out the ports it sometimes don’t pick up a round…the brake has a huge affect on it as far as recoil being reduced from feel and I filmed me shootin and played it back and it’s pretty obvious how much less she kicks….awesome product and rifle just may need 1 little tweak somewhere in the system to 100% cycle with all ammo and I know you guys are well versed in BCG”s…buffers…springs..and all..my first hiccups outta just 2 ar’s I own…look forward to another reply to hear your thoughts…matt
Because you can add tape to the inside of the jaws so that it doesn't scratch the comp or nut and adjust it so it still fits. If you put electrical tape in the jaws of a 3/4" wrench it will no longer fit on a 3/4'' fitting.
I wouldn’t use one for anything i gave a shit about. If you have a quality 3/4” wrench, you shouldn’t be worried about marring or scratching anything. If your kit came from Harbor Freight or NAPA maybe the tape would work; id just invest in a quality wrench set. Safer anyway
It isn't a crescent wrench , its an adjustable wrench with the most common made by the crescent company, just like vice grips are locking pliers made by the vice company, and a Skil saw is a circular saw made by Skil
I’m buying your recoil eliminator, what tool do I need to install it? Which method except the 4th do you recommend? The rifle is Howa chassis 6.5 creedmoor #6 heavy barrel. Thanks.
In this video, our tech used our JP Universal Vise Clamps to secure the upper receiver and barrel, so the gas port was facing away from the tech. If you have purchased a JP 3-port, then the JP logo will be on the bottom of the comp.
Use a level on the rail on an assembeled rifle to install a muzzle brake. If you install the muzzle brake first, good luck gettin' your gas block on... just sayin'!
My recent JP muzzle purchase has terrible finishes, your muzzle is so unfinished, sharp burrs everywhere and still attached to the muzzle, JP horrible quality control before heading to your customers.
That's not how we operate. If something left our shop looking like that, then something went wrong. If you want to email us at service@jprifles.com, we'll see about making it right.
Too far away showing the muzzle and not zooming in to see up close. Wearing a black shirt didn't help seeing either with the poor lighting. A red shirt would have been better.
I got my JP phone here, watching on my JP couch, as I drink my JP orange juice.
Do you watch JP (Japan Porn)?
Had some JPs comps many years ago, they make awesome products for a fair price! Support these companies for their hard work on delivering great products w/o breaking the bank!
Hey! Is that a JP vice block that he's using? Not really sure if he mentioned it.
Regarding the last method shown, somehow it would seem a better idea to remove material from the muzzle break rather than cutting away on the barrel. Modify the less expensive piece and keep the barrel standard. Let me know if I am missing something.
Because of the OD of the muzzle brake changes due to its shape, if you cut away on the brake, the OD of the brake and the OD of the barrel would not match
Don't get me wrong as I have JP something on almost every "project" I own , but thought it was funny when he said it eliminates jump just as it jumps then edit out the last turn he did on it almost makes you wonder if it jumped again 🤔 🤣 🤣
Loctite on a barrel? Loctite breaks way before the temps barrels normally get to.
Red loctite doesn’t
Where do I find one of those “JP Comp Wrench” - or any comp wrench for that matter? Is that even a thing? I’ve been looking all over and can’t find any. Thanks!
Will this guide work in removing on pin and welded (as per info in the website) comp for the like of JP-5?
I intend to switch between comp and suppressor with it
nice video but do you need a jam washer if you where going to silver solder a comp to a 14.5 barrel
Blue locktite?
That has a pretty low operating temp.
I have heard of using it for castle nuts, but barrels?
Good video, but it is better to do muzzle work with a barrel vice? Not you, but novice builders may accidentally torque too hard one way or the other and bust the sleeve of the end of the barrel. I've seen it happen a few times. A barrel vice assures no damage will occur to the upper or the barrel in the case of over torquing ; mostly when getting a stuck device off the barrel, or one that was for some reason thread locked.
Ah.. Never had a barrel that looked that nice
Hello Dustin, thank you for this very informative video. What is your opinion on threading "sporter" barrels on high power rifles like a 300 win mag? The skinny barrels of these guns lots of times are hardly thick enough to thread of 5/8-24 UNEF. And even if you can, you're not left with much of a shoulder to bud up against. Threading 1/2-28 on these rifles leaves one with a very marginal wall thickness creating a potential dangerous situation with these high powered rifles. I'm very curious to hear how you deal with these situations?
So with the crush washer you never need to back off and move forward like other crush washers? I ordered some and want to make sure I do it properly.
Shouldn't have to, no.
No.
How about a vid showing how to secure the barrel of a bolt gun?
What happened with the double crush washer link in the description below?! lmao
What about the "peel washer"? I've never even heard of this wizardry until now. I'm assuming it's basically a washer made up of shim layers that can be peeled away one at a time, or so it seemed. Seeing as how this is an older video (based on Dustin's level of discomfort in front of the camera compared to more recent videos) I wonder if the "peel washer" technology has since been phased out or proved problematic in some way. Thanks for the demos, and keep that juicy JP content a comin!
Just the information I was looking for, thanks!
What good is a level unless you ensure that the vise, table and even floor are perfectly level ?
None.
Your penis.
I wasn't sure if he likes the JP vice block. Did he happen to mention it?
How do you square your recommendation to use blue Loctite with the fact that it has a maximum operating temperature of 150c/300f and an AR15 barrel can easily exceed that during even moderately heavy use?
You don’t need any loctite or rockset. A little high temp grease aids in removal and prevents galling especially with stainless barrels.
Ouch blue lock tight? blue will melt right away after one mag dump. need to use red if you're going to use a loctite type method.
rockset is honestly ideal.
We haven't had any issues with this in our 25+ years of being opened. We do understand what you are talking about, but this has worked great for us so far
VC-3
Good video 👍. I am thinking about using the double crush washer
Thinking about handjobs.
The JP double crush washer!
You end up pre loading tension into the barrel by tightening it like that. As the metal expands it twists....thus changing the effects of the brake as well as accuracy. Just saying.
Hey Dustin. Nice video. I'm right-handed, so I time my comps with a slight tilt toward the one o'clock position instead of perfectly level. This helps to minimize the dot movement to the right. I learned this tip from a Jerry Miculek video. Is it possible for your to accommodate this? I recently ordered a JP 14.5 9mm barrel with comp pinned/welded. By the way, do you make a titanium comp in 9mm?
Thanks.
Thanks for your quick reply!
No link for the partner company that does the blended timing.
My 419 hellfire cause my dd5v3 to fail to feed? What do I need to remedy this?
Not sure. Not enough information on the types of malfunctions. The muzzle device really should have little to no effect on the function of the rifle.
@@JPRifles it’s fine 100% with the factory Daniel defense brake/flash hider but seems to me it’s dumpin so much gas out the ports it sometimes don’t pick up a round…the brake has a huge affect on it as far as recoil being reduced from feel and I filmed me shootin and played it back and it’s pretty obvious how much less she kicks….awesome product and rifle just may need 1 little tweak somewhere in the system to 100% cycle with all ammo and I know you guys are well versed in BCG”s…buffers…springs..and all..my first hiccups outta just 2 ar’s I own…look forward to another reply to hear your thoughts…matt
Why would anyone use a crescent wrench?
Because you can add tape to the inside of the jaws so that it doesn't scratch the comp or nut and adjust it so it still fits. If you put electrical tape in the jaws of a 3/4" wrench it will no longer fit on a 3/4'' fitting.
I wouldn’t use one for anything i gave a shit about. If you have a quality 3/4” wrench, you shouldn’t be worried about marring or scratching anything. If your kit came from Harbor Freight or NAPA maybe the tape would work; id just invest in a quality wrench set. Safer anyway
It isn't a crescent wrench , its an adjustable wrench with the most common made by the crescent company, just like vice grips are locking pliers made by the vice company, and a Skil saw is a circular saw made by Skil
Bill Hodges or calling all multi tools “feintools”
@@ToddKing best answer
You need to bring the camera closer to your bench table
I’m buying your recoil eliminator, what tool do I need to install it? Which method except the 4th do you recommend? The rifle is Howa chassis 6.5 creedmoor #6 heavy barrel. Thanks.
I'd suggest buying a damn good set of plugs and muffs cause this thing is gonna peel paint off a barricade 10 feet away. On a 6.5 creed, why?
This may be a stupid question..
But do you lube the threads before mounting the comp? I’m scared of corrosion 😕
We don't lube our treads, we use a little bit of blue loctite to ensure the comp doesn't rotate
You should lube it .. no need for locktite that I e ever seen imo
Which direction should crush washer face?
For the JP one, it doesn't matter. For a standard crush washer, the conical end should point towards the receiver.
When looking at the barrel, you should see “this side towards enemy” on the muzzle when installed properly. You are welcome.
there is to much info missing. what is the proper way to align holes. they never say what way the barrel is facing????
In this video, our tech used our JP Universal Vise Clamps to secure the upper receiver and barrel, so the gas port was facing away from the tech. If you have purchased a JP 3-port, then the JP logo will be on the bottom of the comp.
How many times are you guys going to say you used your vice clamps😂
@@michaeldolan5094 i lost count at 274 🤣😂
jp makes good shit
sold me on those vice blocks
Last attempt didn’t show timing
Use a level on the rail on an assembeled rifle to install a muzzle brake. If you install the muzzle brake first, good luck gettin' your gas block on... just sayin'!
No link!
My recent JP muzzle purchase has terrible finishes, your muzzle is so unfinished, sharp burrs everywhere and still attached to the muzzle, JP horrible quality control before heading to your customers.
That's not how we operate. If something left our shop looking like that, then something went wrong. If you want to email us at service@jprifles.com, we'll see about making it right.
Upon further inspection, it has been determined that what you describe are accurizing burrs. Have great day
Cool vid, very helpful!
Too far away showing the muzzle and not zooming in to see up close. Wearing a black shirt didn't help seeing either with the poor lighting. A red shirt would have been better.
Nope. Not a JP. 🤣