Great video and explanation of the fault and repair procedure. I just changed the valve cover/upper timing chain cover gaskets on my 06 BMW 750Li. I'm having the same symptoms but the codes I got were 2A83 (vanos intake) and 2A90 (exh cam. tooth offset to crank.) I cleared the codes and the 2A90 returned. Will I follow the same procedure as your video but on the passenger side of the engine? Which vanos is for the intake/exhaust? And which camshaft position sensor is for intake/exhaust? Again great explanation on the process.
In my years of experience it has never been a timing issue that causes this fault code. But the diagnostic tree for the fault wants you to check it. Just wanted to cover all of the bases in case someone has that rare instance where it is a timing issue. Didn't want to be the one to lead them astray.
Great video....I currently have a 2007 X5 throwing the 2a91 and 2a8d codes with misfire codes. Rough idle and running until 15 minutes of warmup than normal. Also threw codes for 2ea0 for oil condition sensor and no BSD message from old condition sensor and intelligent battery sensor. I plan to pull my sensors and solenoids as I dont have the timing tool. Just wondering what the oil condition sensor might mean as well, or if it could be related.
I've actually seen cars do pretty crazy things with a bad oil condition sensor. If the fault is currently present and you are unable to read your oil level I would start with replacing that.
hi, I have a BMW 750i chack engine popped out. I connected a diagnostic computer, two codes 2A8D and 2A91 appeared. I haven't done anything yet, the oil is coming up for replacement. What is the best way to start? What could be the cause? What to do besides changing the oil? thank you if you answer. greetings
This video was very helpful. I ended up finding out that it did jump timing. My question is there an easy way to get it back in time or would have to redo the whole timing chain?
I feel like it may be possible to get it back in time some how. You will have to pull both valve covers to get the timing tools on the cams. And then you will have to take tension off the chain so you can get the play to rotate the cam it jumped on back into time. That being said there is most likely a reason it jumped time. Like it has a broken or worn guide or the tensioner failed.
Cleaning the solenoids doesn't necessarily fix them. If that didn't work you can either disassemble the engine and check timing. Or you can replace the solenoids and see if that fixes the issue.
Hey, did the new solenoids fix the problem? The N62 in my X5 4.8is isn't throwing any codes, but i noticed that adjustment angle bank 1 reads 0, while bank 2 is about 3 degrees. Feels down on power. Any idea whether this is a vanos issue or valvetronic issue?
Im having this issue but BOTH exhaust cams are throwing correlation codes, and the car now has several cylinder misfires. Swapped solenoids with new ones and the issue is still present. I havent taken the valve cover off yet as it will take a while to do. I’m assuming this is my next step. The car also throwing a RED oil pressure low light when it seems to be actuating the VANOS. any ideas? Please help 😂
If you have any kind of oil pressure issue, indicated by the oil pressure light, it will affect the variable camshaft timing. I would sort out what is causing your oil pressure issue before proceeding with anything else.
Hi. I just did the valve seals and did the timing with same tools, cranked the engine severa times and checked the timing and was dead on every time. I also rebuild the transmission this is on a x5 e70 4.8. I put everything back together and I got that same code 2a91 I don’t mind swapping new solenoids and sensors but I would hate to check that timing again because of the amount of work I already put. Would you think the timing is off after I checked several times before the assembly.? Thanks.
Doubt the timing is off if you rechecked it a few times. Most likely vanos solenoids. If they were sitting for awhile with no oil in them they may just be sticking and need some time to get oil in them and freed up. But it wouldn't surprise me if they are just bad. I've had them go out after doing oil changes on these cars.
Thanks for the fast reply man. I appreciate the reassurance. I see the logic of the solenoids been dry, they were sitting for about a month while doing repairs. Hopefully changing solenoids will fix this code 2a8d and 2a91. I also saw today and ISTA had a section for calibrating vanos. Thanks bro.
👍 great vid .. too bad your not over at nj ... anyways I have an issue with low idle rpm around 500/ 450 when engine is warm any ideas what could it be ?
If its the n62 like the video and it is higher mileage I would say worn levers for the variable valve lift. You can raise the base engine idle with the right scan tool. But that is only a bandage and the issue will come back as they wear more.
hello I have a 2007 650i and I changed the both vanos without changing the oil and now I'm getting a code that says 2A8D following with 2A91 what should I do
The 2A8D fault is an adaptation fault for the end travel range of the exhaust VANOS on bank 2. This could be caused by oil flow; such as blocked passage, faulty valve(even though it was replaced), or even worn oil being too thin. The 2A91 fault is most likely setting because of the other. I would go back and swap those solenoids between intake and exhaust on that bank and clear faults and see what comes back. Could verify or rule out a bad solenoid. If that fault stays with exhaust an oil change would be my next step.
I have 2008 BMW 550 Ignition turns on No crank no click intermittent starting Some times it starts 10 times no problem New starter Replaced start button Replaced and flashed cas module Some mechanic installed a used transmission. EGS shows different VIN Had This code before. *A0B4 CAS: Engine Start, Starter Operation* Changed starter Start button CAS module It worked fine for a day The same code is back
That fault just sets when it sees you attempt to start the car but doesn't see an amperage spike on the power line going to the starter. It is essentially a fault telling you the starter is bad. Check and make sure that the engine and transmission are grounded properly. There should be a ground strap on the back of the transmission going to the inside of the transmission tunnel. Easy way to find if that is the problem is to make your own jumper wire that goes from the engine somewhere, say like the engine lifting hook, to the ground jump start point in the engine bay. If your issue goes away yourbground strap is the culprit. I have seen them physically look okay but be corroded and have too high resistance to work properly.
I live near Raleigh, NC. I am not currently taking on any work. I have changed career fields and am no longer directly fixing cars. If you are near that area I can direct you to some shops that can take care of you.
The whole diagnostic process on this video would probably be about 6 hours. Cost would depend on the labor rate of the shop you are at. The actual repair that fixed this car, that wouldn't have required the whole process, probably would have been about an hour.
I’m a BMW tech myself at an independent shop and I gotta say I agree with everything you said and did. nice video, well done.
I love the way your videos flow, makes doing it myself a lot easier, keep it man. Great work
this is great! I already ordered new solenoids for my N62 engine but this video is a no-b.s., genuinely knowledgeable work.
Great video and explanation of the fault and repair procedure. I just changed the valve cover/upper timing chain cover gaskets on my 06 BMW 750Li. I'm having the same symptoms but the codes I got were 2A83 (vanos intake) and 2A90 (exh cam. tooth offset to crank.) I cleared the codes and the 2A90 returned. Will I follow the same procedure as your video but on the passenger side of the engine? Which vanos is for the intake/exhaust? And which camshaft position sensor is for intake/exhaust? Again great explanation on the process.
I must say this video was awesome 👌
So I'm going through this with a 09 650i replaced chains have a a28e bank 1 intake, new phaser,new solenoids, updated DME, still has the fault..
Good Job man, very extra of you to pull the valve cover, but made for a more entertaining video.
In my years of experience it has never been a timing issue that causes this fault code. But the diagnostic tree for the fault wants you to check it. Just wanted to cover all of the bases in case someone has that rare instance where it is a timing issue. Didn't want to be the one to lead them astray.
Great video....I currently have a 2007 X5 throwing the 2a91 and 2a8d codes with misfire codes. Rough idle and running until 15 minutes of warmup than normal. Also threw codes for 2ea0 for oil condition sensor and no BSD message from old condition sensor and intelligent battery sensor.
I plan to pull my sensors and solenoids as I dont have the timing tool. Just wondering what the oil condition sensor might mean as well, or if it could be related.
I've actually seen cars do pretty crazy things with a bad oil condition sensor. If the fault is currently present and you are unable to read your oil level I would start with replacing that.
hi, I have a BMW 750i chack engine popped out. I connected a diagnostic computer, two codes 2A8D and 2A91 appeared. I haven't done anything yet, the oil is coming up for replacement. What is the best way to start? What could be the cause? What to do besides changing the oil? thank you if you answer. greetings
I would start with the oil change and clearing faults. Thin/worn oil can cause the adjustment faults to pop up.
This video was very helpful. I ended up finding out that it did jump timing. My question is there an easy way to get it back in time or would have to redo the whole timing chain?
I feel like it may be possible to get it back in time some how. You will have to pull both valve covers to get the timing tools on the cams. And then you will have to take tension off the chain so you can get the play to rotate the cam it jumped on back into time. That being said there is most likely a reason it jumped time. Like it has a broken or worn guide or the tensioner failed.
You are the man
Hi i have fault 2A90 i clean selenoids but same engine not good working. Any ideas?
Cleaning the solenoids doesn't necessarily fix them. If that didn't work you can either disassemble the engine and check timing. Or you can replace the solenoids and see if that fixes the issue.
Hey, did the new solenoids fix the problem?
The N62 in my X5 4.8is isn't throwing any codes, but i noticed that adjustment angle bank 1 reads 0, while bank 2 is about 3 degrees. Feels down on power. Any idea whether this is a vanos issue or valvetronic issue?
Solenoids did end up fixing this car. If you are having messed up readings of adjustment angle it would be vanos and not valvetronic.
Im having this issue but BOTH exhaust cams are throwing correlation codes, and the car now has several cylinder misfires. Swapped solenoids with new ones and the issue is still present. I havent taken the valve cover off yet as it will take a while to do. I’m assuming this is my next step. The car also throwing a RED oil pressure low light when it seems to be actuating the VANOS. any ideas? Please help 😂
If you have any kind of oil pressure issue, indicated by the oil pressure light, it will affect the variable camshaft timing. I would sort out what is causing your oil pressure issue before proceeding with anything else.
@@MunkysGarage okay thank you. Thats what i was thinking i just haven’t pieced that all together. Thanks again
Thanks brother 👍🏻👍🏻🇲🇽
29EF
CDKFMAS Ox29EF - Mixture adaptation,
sum error
29CF
CDKMD05 0x29CF - Misfiring Cylinder 3
2A89
CDKANWS2 0x2A89 - Outlet VANOS 2
2A8D
CDKANWSAD2 0x2A8D - outlet VANOS,
adaptation stop 2
2A91
CDKNWAKW2 0x2A91 - Exhaust camshaft 2,
tooth offset to crankshaft
2A84
CDKENWS2 0x2A84 - Inlet VANOS 2
2A83
CDKENWS 0x2A83 - Inlet VANOS
2B64
CDKPH3 0x2B64 - Camshaft sensor 2, inlet
2A8C
CDKANWSAD Ox2A8C - outlet VANOS,
adaptation stop
2A88
CDKANWS 0x2A88 - Outlet VANOS
2B65
CDKPH4 0x2B65 - Camshaft sensor 2, outlet
Any ideas?
great video
Hi. I just did the valve seals and did the timing with same tools, cranked the engine severa times and checked the timing and was dead on every time. I also rebuild the transmission this is on a x5 e70 4.8. I put everything back together and I got that same code 2a91 I don’t mind swapping new solenoids and sensors but I would hate to check that timing again because of the amount of work I already put. Would you think the timing is off after I checked several times before the assembly.? Thanks.
Doubt the timing is off if you rechecked it a few times. Most likely vanos solenoids. If they were sitting for awhile with no oil in them they may just be sticking and need some time to get oil in them and freed up. But it wouldn't surprise me if they are just bad. I've had them go out after doing oil changes on these cars.
Thanks for the fast reply man. I appreciate the reassurance. I see the logic of the solenoids been dry, they were sitting for about a month while doing repairs. Hopefully changing solenoids will fix this code 2a8d and 2a91. I also saw today and ISTA had a section for calibrating vanos. Thanks bro.
@@freddyvillar6337 Were Vanos your problem?
I have a problem same engine I have a ton of oil in the intake manifold
I would be looking into a faulty crankcase vent valve.
Good job, thanks
👍 great vid .. too bad your not over at nj ... anyways I have an issue with low idle rpm around 500/ 450 when engine is warm any ideas what could it be ?
If its the n62 like the video and it is higher mileage I would say worn levers for the variable valve lift. You can raise the base engine idle with the right scan tool. But that is only a bandage and the issue will come back as they wear more.
hello I have a 2007 650i and I changed the both vanos without changing the oil and now I'm getting a code that says 2A8D following with 2A91 what should I do
The 2A8D fault is an adaptation fault for the end travel range of the exhaust VANOS on bank 2. This could be caused by oil flow; such as blocked passage, faulty valve(even though it was replaced), or even worn oil being too thin. The 2A91 fault is most likely setting because of the other. I would go back and swap those solenoids between intake and exhaust on that bank and clear faults and see what comes back. Could verify or rule out a bad solenoid. If that fault stays with exhaust an oil change would be my next step.
@@MunkysGarage ok thanks I'll let you know what happens
Excellent video
I have 2008 BMW 550
Ignition turns on
No crank no click intermittent starting
Some times it starts 10 times no problem
New starter
Replaced start button
Replaced and flashed cas module
Some mechanic installed a used transmission.
EGS shows different VIN
Had This code before.
*A0B4 CAS: Engine Start, Starter Operation*
Changed starter
Start button
CAS module
It worked fine for a day
The same code is back
That fault just sets when it sees you attempt to start the car but doesn't see an amperage spike on the power line going to the starter. It is essentially a fault telling you the starter is bad. Check and make sure that the engine and transmission are grounded properly. There should be a ground strap on the back of the transmission going to the inside of the transmission tunnel. Easy way to find if that is the problem is to make your own jumper wire that goes from the engine somewhere, say like the engine lifting hook, to the ground jump start point in the engine bay. If your issue goes away yourbground strap is the culprit. I have seen them physically look okay but be corroded and have too high resistance to work properly.
Where are you located so you can fix my car
I live near Raleigh, NC. I am not currently taking on any work. I have changed career fields and am no longer directly fixing cars. If you are near that area I can direct you to some shops that can take care of you.
Thanks Boss
Where are you located?
Fuquay-Varina, North Carolina
What would a job like this cost
The whole diagnostic process on this video would probably be about 6 hours. Cost would depend on the labor rate of the shop you are at. The actual repair that fixed this car, that wouldn't have required the whole process, probably would have been about an hour.
So 7 hours total sound about right
Yeah sounds about right.
Great video