I wish someone would make a great and popular video like yours with the 2.5 l rav4 starting in 2009. After lots of research some interesting ideas. Valvoline who apparantly owns zerex now sells a Asian antifreeze with zerex technology at Walmart for about 12 dollars. Many, including myself, are confused by the location or existence of the block drain on the 2.5l. I called Toyota requesting replacement bleader bolts for the 2011 2.5l rav4. They said there are 2 at about $7.5 each. But where on block. Another issue is the upper block bleader. Some videos show this on the 2.5l for other toyota vehicles. A top to bottom video on the 2.5l rav4 would be very popular. The block drains sound like they are there. The upper bleader may be part of the 160 dealer cost and necessary because the 2.5l aluminum block and high running temps of this engine. Good job on the 2.4l video.
I no longer own it so and I do not have access to a 2.5L. I find it annoying that they make it so hard to drain the fluids. We had this figured out in the 60's why can't we do it today?
Attention Colleagues - Rav4- Owners, 2008-2011. I just have a near-death-experience with my Rav4, 2010. There is a plastic piece of tubing, that just got broken on my car, 7 years old, 86,000 miles. This is a 3-way connector, 2 pipes are approx. 40 mm diameter, third one is approx. 12 mm. If you go to 4:50 through 4:52 min on this video, there is the piece I am talking about. The T-branch got cracked and leaked a lot of fluid. You would not expect this to happen on a new car like this. Please monitor your RAV4 Toyota regularly and expect this to happen. I believe, this piece should be made of metal, never plastic. Unfortunately, plastic is much cheaper, and will bring you to the dealership for expensive repair, right after the expiration of warranty. I think, there should be a recall on this piece. Best: NT
Dimi T Mine broke at 100K miles and now it broke again at 200K. The first time I didn't notice. Luckily I was parked at the gas station and checked my tires air presure and all fluids then I noticed the coolant reservoir was empty and when I looked over I saw that part with the little hose broken dripping some coolant. 09 Rav4 with the 2.5L Engine.
That is right. Happen to me a month ago. I was looking for something else and I noticed a white colore around that pipe. When i touch it just broke. So the only way to go fixing it is to go in Toyota dealer a by a new one. Do not try junkyard is not worth. The hole pipes will cost you $ 55.
Same thing happened to my wife's 2011 Rav 4 with only 40,000 miles on it. I notice the pink fluid was leaking from the 3 way inline radiator hose where it connects from the engine and splits down to the lower part of the radiator. The piece is plastic, very thin and apparently gets brittle over time from engine heat and hot antifreeze that runs through it. I looked online and found this is a problem which Toyota has not addressed since the new replacement radiator hose I purchased is still made the same way with the same plastic part. UNBELIEVABLE!!! My wife's Rav 4 is a 2011, 8 years later (now its 2019) and Toyota is still making the hose the same way, which is bound to fail again. Toyota dealer in N.Y. wants $130 per hour labor plus $40 for the hose plus tax comes to over $185.00. I went to the Toyota dealer and obtained a 15% discount on the price of the hose after squabbling with the Toyota parts employee. I did it myself--- $37.00 for the hose from the dealer and $18.00 for the antifreeze gallon. For DIYers, make sure you have catch pans, proper tools and have at least a gallon of antifreeze ready to refill the system. You will lose antifreeze when you disconnect the hose on both ends. Someone posted a video on TH-cam on how to replace the hose. Was a pain in the butt to do, but doable.
Thanks much for the video. Would not have known about the engine drain without the video. Completed the coolant change in less than an hour - piece of cake!
Hey make sure when you're filling up the reservoir with coolant you pour it in slow and controlled unlike you did. That way you avoid making a mess all over your engine and don't confuse that with a coolant leak later on.
I too have used the Zerex Asian Formula(Red) in 2 Toyota's. Recently I started to change the factory coolant in another Toyota using the Zerex product. During the refill I found it loaded with white flaky matter. I opened an issue with Valvoline. That was a month ago and I now waiting for a refund check. They tried to down play the issue, but why would I want coolant like this when all of their other versions were clear and clean. From now on I use Toyota SLLC coolant. I do not want to go thru this again as Valvoline told me this would be a "one time" refund.
What would happen if you didn't close the valves while the engine was running while you keep topping the reservoir with either distilled water or Toyota 50/50? Wouldn't that flush out the exisitng coolant inside the engine better? Thanks for the video and it's helpful. Thanks
You could flush the system with distilled water until there is no coolant left then refil the system with coolant. You would then know that all your coolant is new. Thank you so much for commenting and watching. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
I just paid $25 at my Toyota dealer for one jug of that Super Long Life coolant. I wonder if this is the same on our 2009 RAV4 with the 2.5 liter AR-FE engine? I've been searching and watching videos on this and so far your is the best.
Check your owners manual on the AR-FE engine to make sure. I'm glad and very happy to know that I could help you. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
@@richardlloydusa I used Toyota Super Long Life coolant and just did a drain and fill. That's all Toyota vsays us required. Initial factory coolant is good for five years or 100,000 miles but refilled are five years or 50,000 miles. We put just over 50,000 miles on it since we bought it so it was time.
Agreed. The Toyota coolant is expensive but there's no question as to if it's right or not. LOL, it says Toyota on the bottle! Thank you so much for commenting, watching and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Great video Two questions please 1- I have 2011 RAV4 , 4 cylinder, 4WD with 140K and never changed/flushed the coolant. Do need to flush or just change (drain & refill as you did in the video)? 2- I didn’t see you burp the air from the coolant system, or didn’t the RAV4 need that ? Thanks
Thanks for the video. Just a heads up. Another individual commented on the upper radiator hose with "ABS" inline three way diverter. My vehicle has about 150K miles and I barely moved the small hose on top and the piece broke off. So make sure your vehicle is cool (like mine). So that one doesn't get burned. Still hard to believe how that part broke with the slightest amount of movement.
to get all the anti freeze out, one needs to drain fluid tighten all drain plugs fill with distilled water. run engine to operating temp shut engine off let cool then drain. then do the same until fluid runs clear, then drain and fill with one container of straight anti freeze then mix the other container with 1 to 1 ratio of distlled water. theses engines are aluminum do NOT use tap water. tap water has minerals and will cause your radiator to form mineral deposits over time.
Thanks, Andrew. I've always flushed out the antifreeze with water after draining, but never thought of using distilled water (cheap). Good idea. What about turning on the heat, so you clear out the fluid in that?
let me get this straight: When fluid runs clear (only distilled water drains), I should fill 1:1 coolant and distilled water mix and drain it ? After that drain should I fill straight coolant and Im done ?
Nice video. I have a question. after drain the coolant and added new one drive for 30 minutes but no heat. I pop up the cover coolant still full. Any ideas?
still in the process of flushing.. the first flush still blow cold air. I drained all out and added another gallon of water and drove for 30 minutes and now i can feel heat. going to drain the water and add coolant and see what happen after. can't keep the water there cause temperature would drop below 30 soon.
So what about filling it up with water, letting the engine run, then reflushing? Haynes manual says to do that a few times until the contaminants are gone. It's not an oil change! You don't just drain it and refill it. Have I missed something?
Hey Richard, I saw that you no longer own the car. But do you know if it had an actual radiator cap? I have a '07 and do not see an actual cap on top of the radiator. It looks very much like your engine compartment.
Remember to leave your car at angle. Air bubbles travels upwards. Bleed out the air from the radiator cap or coolant reservoir cap and let the air escape.
Do you have a picture of what you undo to open that drain? I can see the drain in your video but not what you're unscrewing to get it to drain. Also, that second yellow switch I saw a video showing you can open it from underneath instead of from on top if you reach up and turn it counterclockwise. Have you opened it that way also? My Rav4 V6 is at 107K so I want to try this stuff myself, coolant, transmission, transfer case, oil. It all looks simple enough except that one thing you open to get the first part of the coolant to drain.
+adam smith You can see the drain plug at 3:08 in the video there is a bolt on that drain plug 10mm you turn it counter clockwise to open it and clockwise to close it. If you look under the engine in front of the oil pan you will see it. I prefer to open the yellow drain plug from the top as the fluid will not spill on my hands. Thanks.
Hey Richard thanks for sharing this great video....I have a 2011RAV4 and cannot find an air bleeder bolt anywhere....does it exist with this generation RAV4? Also, you didn't burp the system....is it not necessary?
I no longer own this Rav4 and don't have access to a 2011 but perhaps they got rid of the bolt. But in my Rav4 the manual said it will bleed the air on it's own. Thanks.
I no longer have the car or the manual but if you are in question about the service intervals just call the service department at your local Toyota dealer and they will verify the interval for you. Thanks.
Finally,There are alternatives available! Zerex Asian vehicle coolant can be found at Oreilly's and NAPA. Aisin Antifreeze/coolant Can also be found at NAPA. Beck /Arnley coolants for Asian Cars are sold at bumper to bumper auto parts. And if you have an Autozone near you, Pentosin A1 to A4 coolants are carried for Asian vehicles too. No more going to dealer ships.
Richard Lloyd It's just a real question... I had two other cars and they actually need to be purged for bubbles (a Jeep Liberty and an old Toyota Corolla -1992-.) I have been looking for any kind of "purge" bolt in my RAV4 for a long time and I couldn't find it; that's the reason I haven't done this service by myself in my RAV4 yet. BTW, thanks for your video, is very comprehensive!
Rodras el Astur Rodríguez Sorry I misunderstood you. I thought you were making a statement. I didn't purge the system and I did not have any issues. This cooling system doesn't have a radiator cap. It is actually the cap on the reservoir with the coolant. I think and this is only a theory, that is why the reservoir is higher than the highest point on the engine so that the air flows to it. Again only my theory.
Richard Lloyd I am the one who is really sorry for this misunderstanding... I'm originally from Spain and English is my second language; as Celia Cruz (a very famous Salsa singer) used to say: "My English is not very good looking". I have to improve my English skills and this kind of misunderstandings will help me to get into my goal! Thanks again for your help!!!
Maybe you can help me being no mechanic has to this point. I had my head gasket replaced on my 08 Rav-4 in August and ever since i have had to fill it up with more coolant. No one can find a leak, and the mechanic who did the gasket is not local. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. I am using Prestone 50/50 to fill it up and do so when its either cold or been sitting awhile. There also no pressure when i take off the cap.
I would like to know why you had the head gasket changed in the first place? Your real concern would be if the level keeps going down which indicates a leak of some type. Which you have indicated as to having. I don't care what anyone says, coolant should not evaporate constantly. The coolant does not just disappear. It has to be going some place. Check your oil level and see if it is high. The reason I say this is that if you have an internal leak in your engine (block or head) the coolant may be going into your oil. This is a serious situation which can cause engine failure if allowed to continue as the coolant will thin the oil reducing its viscosity and lubricating ability. Check your oil filler cap and see if there is scum/sludge in the cap or sludge in your engine. This is another indication of a problem (Coolant in the engine oil or a bad PCV valve) etc. Check your water pump for pink crud or coolant leak. This will probably require that you take the front passenger wheel off your vehicle to get a good look at it. There is a plastic panel you may need to remove to see it. Last and not least if you have a head gasket leak your coolant may be leaking into your cylinders and burning in combustion which would more than likely show up in fouled plugs(Usually white fouling) but since you are not using Asian coolant it may be a different colour as well as excessive white exhaust. If you still can't find it, have a mechanic do a prolonged pressure test on the cooling system. This should help isolate the leak. Good luck.
The head gasket was replaced when on the way back from a road trip. The car was overheating and stalling when i called for a tow. There are no leaks anywhere, the oil is fine as well. Toyota even looked at it and found nothing, and being i am not under warrenty they easilly could have screwed me. The funny thing is the last guy who checked it found nothing and most have toped it off after. For the next few days with more driving then usual the coolant did not go down at all where as usually i would have filled it twice. Eventually it did go down and i am back to the usual routine with filling it up. There was pressure also at first and when i started to refill it it slowly got less and less to where there is no pressure when i take the cap off.
My Rav4 2008 has been leaking coolant. Took it to the mechanic but he couldn't find any leaks. I left it overnight with cardboard underneath and found a few drops in the morning. Any ideas?
Can you tell where the drops are coming from? Check your water pump for leaks around the bearing seal or the weeping hole. That will usually show up as pink crud. Check your oil and see if it is contaminated with coolant. Check the level and if it goes up from day to day you have a leak in your engine somewhere (head gasket or water jacket, block etc.) Look at your oil filler cap and see if there is any foam or scum on it or in your engine (evidence of an internal coolant leak). If you are losing coolant it's going somewhere. Also see if your exhaust is white which indicates that you are burning coolant. Your mechanic could have pressurised your cooling system to check for a leak or loss of pressure (Indicating a leak). Hope that helps. Thanks.
Thanks for the reply. The drops are coming from next to the front-right wheel. There is some pink crud left underneath. Also I noticed inside the engine bay there was some pink residue but I couldn't find where it came from. I will take a look at the things you mentioned. Also, are the cooling fans meant to start running straight away when you turn the engine on or do they come on once the engine is hot?
Sahil Chauhan The cooling fan should come on once the engine gets hot. If your engine is cold it should not turn on when the engine is first turned on. The AC on the car will trigger the fans as well. The passenger side of the engine is where the water pump is. If the water pump seals are leaking the coolant can be lost as steam at which point you will see pink deposits on the water pump but you wont see a leak underneath the car. You will have jack car up to take the passenger tire off the car (follow all safety protocols) and remove a plastic access panel in the wheel well to access the water pump. Thanks.
45 minutes to an hour but remember I am video recording it so that slows me down considerably. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.
+Richard Lloyd Thanks. This week I'm doing the transmission fluid and filter, next week I'm doing coolant and oil. Then transfer case and differential. And plugs last =)
+Richard Lloyd I used Toyota WS ATF but I didn't have a torque wrench and couldn't get that metal plate with the 17mm bolts off to access the 10mm bolts on the pan to change the filter. So I just drained and refilled the transmission fluid. I'm going to do the oil and coolant next week I think. Gonna use the Zerex for the coolant and Castrol Edge 5W-30 for the engine. I'll do the diff, transfer case, and power steering soon, too.
+Richard Lloyd i have the limited edition i dont knw if it differs but yah same engine thats why i watch ur video more than 10x but still wasted 3 hours the other day looking for that engine block drain plug...i'm all set to go only the problem is the location of that engine drain plug...
I don't have access to 2009 so I can't check to see if they did change it. Mine was a 2008 Limited and I show exactly where it is on that at the 3:07 mark in the video. It is on the front of the engine beside the exhaust manifold above the oil pan. That's the best I can do for you. Thanks.
As you see in the video it is not possible to drain all the fluid from the system and if you flush the system I think you would have the same issue with the fluid you used to flush the system with. I figure that is why the first scheduled flush is at 100,000 miles and every 50,000 after because you are always introducing new fluid to used fluid. Again I am just theorizing on this. Thanks for watching.
was that fully water mixed blended fluid in the containers , normally l think it needs to be mixed half and half with water. and leaving some old fluid in the system may not be the right way to change coolant, it can be flushed out with water , one guy used lots of distilled water , did not want any hose water left in the system when adding the coooland , but l think our water here is as good as distilled , even used on batteries. also some will use a cleaning fluid before the change, for example after changing waterpump that has oil film on it from the factory , to get rid of oil from surfaces inside to get more coolant to metal contact and better cooling .
The Zerex coolant comes premixed. As far as flushing and mixing with distilled water I think that is a bit of a missnomer as the distilled water tends to become acidic. Not sure if that is a good idea. I would follow the manufacturers suggestions to be safe.
ll, I have sienna 2006, after flush out the radiator, I now added water to the reservoir coolant, but it did not not seem to go to the radiator? I had the engine running for 10-15 minutes and turned on heat, the water seemed to stay in the reservoir. Please help.
+Richard Do I am not familiar with the 2006 Siena or it's engine so I am not sure it's the same but here is a video I found on how to do this on the Siena www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2006_Toyota_Sienna_LE_3.3L_V6/coolant_antifreeze/flush_coolant Thanks.
Hey, i want to ask you a question sir, can you tell me how do i open the Antifreeze filler gap because in my car (rav4 2013) i can't open it, its like she is stuck or something like that, so can you give me the right way so that i don't broke it ? and thanks for the video
It should twist off by unscrewing it counter clockwise. I don't own a Rav4 2013 so I am only assuming that it works the same way. You should only do this when the engine is cold as well. I would call your dealer and ask if there is a trick to it to make sure. BTW if you are worried about it you can purchase a new Rad Cap from Amazon for about $6 amzn.to/12fAkoj Order it ahead of time and when you get it try and twist it off. Please update us and tell us how it went. Thanks.
Richard Lloyd Hello, i just want to thank you for the information, and it did work, i juste had to twist it in counter clockwise and force it a little bit and it worked. Thanks again and have a good day Mister Richard.
I would flush it but it's up to you. I am not familiar with the V6 but with the 4 you really can not fully remove all the coolant without flushing. Thanks.
![เป็นไปได้ไหม - WanMai [Performance Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Eh5hItD4Mr0/mqdefault.jpg)
I wish someone would make a great and popular video like yours with the 2.5 l rav4 starting in 2009. After lots of research some interesting ideas. Valvoline who apparantly owns zerex now sells a Asian antifreeze with zerex technology at Walmart for about 12 dollars. Many, including myself, are confused by the location or existence of the block drain on the 2.5l. I called Toyota requesting replacement bleader bolts for the 2011 2.5l rav4. They said there are 2 at about $7.5 each. But where on block. Another issue is the upper block bleader. Some videos show this on the 2.5l for other toyota vehicles. A top to bottom video on the 2.5l rav4 would be very popular. The block drains sound like they are there. The upper bleader may be part of the 160 dealer cost and necessary because the 2.5l aluminum block and high running temps of this engine. Good job on the 2.4l video.
I no longer own it so and I do not have access to a 2.5L. I find it annoying that they make it so hard to drain the fluids. We had this figured out in the 60's why can't we do it today?
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching.
Attention Colleagues - Rav4- Owners, 2008-2011.
I just have a near-death-experience with my Rav4, 2010.
There is a plastic piece of tubing, that just got broken on my car, 7 years old, 86,000 miles.
This is a 3-way connector, 2 pipes are approx. 40 mm diameter, third one is approx. 12 mm.
If you go to 4:50 through 4:52 min on this video, there is the piece I am talking about.
The T-branch got cracked and leaked a lot of fluid. You would not expect this to happen on a new car like this.
Please monitor your RAV4 Toyota regularly and expect this to happen.
I believe, this piece should be made of metal, never plastic.
Unfortunately, plastic is much cheaper, and will bring you to the dealership for expensive repair, right after the expiration of warranty. I think, there should be a recall on this piece.
Best: NT
Thanks
Dimi T how that happen
Dimi T Mine broke at 100K miles and now it broke again at 200K.
The first time I didn't notice.
Luckily I was parked at the gas station and checked my tires air presure and all fluids then I noticed the coolant reservoir was empty and when I looked over I saw that part with the little hose broken dripping some coolant.
09 Rav4 with the 2.5L Engine.
That is right. Happen to me a month ago. I was looking for something else and I noticed a white colore around that pipe. When i touch it just broke. So the only way to go fixing it is to go in Toyota dealer a by a new one. Do not try junkyard is not worth. The hole pipes will cost you $ 55.
Same thing happened to my wife's 2011 Rav 4 with only 40,000 miles on it. I notice the pink fluid was leaking from the 3 way inline radiator hose where it connects from the engine and splits down to the lower part of the radiator. The piece is plastic, very thin and apparently gets brittle over time from engine heat and hot antifreeze that runs through it.
I looked online and found this is a problem which Toyota has not addressed since the new replacement radiator hose I purchased is still made the same way with the same plastic part. UNBELIEVABLE!!!
My wife's Rav 4 is a 2011, 8 years later (now its 2019) and Toyota is still making the hose the same way, which is bound to fail again.
Toyota dealer in N.Y. wants $130 per hour labor plus $40 for the hose plus tax comes to over $185.00.
I went to the Toyota dealer and obtained a 15% discount on the price of the hose after squabbling with the Toyota parts employee.
I did it myself--- $37.00 for the hose from the dealer and $18.00 for the antifreeze gallon.
For DIYers, make sure you have catch pans, proper tools and have at least a gallon of antifreeze ready to refill the system. You will lose antifreeze when you disconnect the hose on both ends.
Someone posted a video on TH-cam on how to replace the hose. Was a pain in the butt to do, but doable.
I did use Asian coolant. But if you want stay with Toyota coolant go for it. Toyota does sell it and it is not cheap.
Thanks much for the video. Would not have known about the engine drain without the video. Completed the coolant change in less than an hour - piece of cake!
Hey make sure when you're filling up the reservoir with coolant you pour it in slow and controlled unlike you did. That way you avoid making a mess all over your engine and don't confuse that with a coolant leak later on.
I too have used the Zerex Asian Formula(Red) in 2 Toyota's. Recently I started to change the factory coolant in another Toyota using the Zerex product. During the refill I found it loaded with white flaky matter. I opened an issue with Valvoline. That was a month ago and I now waiting for a refund check. They tried to down play the issue, but why would I want coolant like this when all of their other versions were clear and clean. From now on I use Toyota SLLC coolant. I do not want to go thru this again as Valvoline told me this would be a "one time" refund.
A very nice clean motor & no rust. Our 08 Rav 4 very rusty here in NJ with 214000 miles.
My pleasure. Thanks for watching.
What would happen if you didn't close the valves while the engine was running while you keep topping the reservoir with either distilled water or Toyota 50/50? Wouldn't that flush out the exisitng coolant inside the engine better? Thanks for the video and it's helpful. Thanks
You could flush the system with distilled water until there is no coolant left then refil the system with coolant. You would then know that all your coolant is new.
Thank you so much for commenting and watching. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
@@richardlloydusa I thought the Toyota antifreeze is always red?
Prestone and Supertec (Walmart) is compatible with any other coolant regardless of color.
I just paid $25 at my Toyota dealer for one jug of that Super Long Life coolant.
I wonder if this is the same on our 2009 RAV4 with the 2.5 liter AR-FE engine?
I've been searching and watching videos on this and so far your is the best.
Check your owners manual on the AR-FE engine to make sure. I'm glad and very happy to know that I could help you. Thank you so much for watching, commenting and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
@@richardlloydusa
I used Toyota Super Long Life coolant and just did a drain and fill. That's all Toyota vsays us required.
Initial factory coolant is good for five years or 100,000 miles but refilled are five years or 50,000 miles. We put just over 50,000 miles on it since we bought it so it was time.
Agreed. The Toyota coolant is expensive but there's no question as to if it's right or not. LOL, it says Toyota on the bottle!
Thank you so much for commenting, watching and the very kind words. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
Great video
Two questions please
1- I have 2011 RAV4 , 4 cylinder, 4WD with 140K and never changed/flushed the coolant. Do need to flush or just change (drain & refill as you did in the video)?
2- I didn’t see you burp the air from the coolant system, or didn’t the RAV4 need that ?
Thanks
Thanks for the video. Just a heads up. Another individual commented on the upper radiator hose with "ABS" inline three way diverter. My vehicle has about 150K miles and I barely moved the small hose on top and the piece broke off. So make sure your vehicle is cool (like mine). So that one doesn't get burned. Still hard to believe how that part broke with the slightest amount of movement.
Thanks.
This video helped me out immensely! Thanks!
to get all the anti freeze out, one needs to drain fluid tighten all drain plugs fill with distilled water. run engine to operating temp shut engine off let cool then drain. then do the same until fluid runs clear, then drain and fill with one container of straight anti freeze then mix the other container with 1 to 1 ratio of distlled water. theses engines are aluminum do NOT use tap water. tap water has minerals and will cause your radiator to form mineral deposits over time.
Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks, Andrew. I've always flushed out the antifreeze with water after draining, but never thought of using distilled water (cheap). Good idea. What about turning on the heat, so you clear out the fluid in that?
let me get this straight: When fluid runs clear (only distilled water drains), I should fill 1:1 coolant and distilled water mix and drain it ? After that drain should I fill straight coolant and Im done ?
Nice video. I have a question. after drain the coolant and added new one drive for 30 minutes but no heat. I pop up the cover coolant still full. Any ideas?
That did not happen to mine. Is it still acting this way? Thanks.
still in the process of flushing.. the first flush still blow cold air. I drained all out and added another gallon of water and drove for 30 minutes and now i can feel heat. going to drain the water and add coolant and see what happen after. can't keep the water there cause temperature would drop below 30 soon.
@@FelixV Check your thermostat
my 2010 rav4 with 2AR-FE engine doesnt have an engine drain plug only the lower radiator drain valve. I wish it did.
Thank you so much for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
you bet Richard. I appreciate your video.
So what about filling it up with water, letting the engine run, then reflushing? Haynes manual says to do that a few times until the contaminants are gone. It's not an oil change! You don't just drain it and refill it. Have I missed something?
Good idea! We have an 06 with 214,000 and I want to change out all the fluids soon.
Hey Richard, I saw that you no longer own the car. But do you know if it had an actual radiator cap? I have a '07 and do not see an actual cap on top of the radiator. It looks very much like your engine compartment.
Mine did not have a radiator cap either. The only way to fill the system on mine was through the reservoir. Thanks.
no radiator cap, the plastic coolant reservoir on the left, that serves your radiator cap.
Thanks so much for the upload sharing this video! Car saver have exactly this type model car! Awesome tutorial :)
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Remember to leave your car at angle. Air bubbles travels upwards. Bleed out the air from the radiator cap or coolant reservoir cap and let the air escape.
That 10-mm-copper looking bolt he showed us I think it's the bleeder valve, not another drain plug.
Do you have a picture of what you undo to open that drain? I can see the drain in your video but not what you're unscrewing to get it to drain. Also, that second yellow switch I saw a video showing you can open it from underneath instead of from on top if you reach up and turn it counterclockwise. Have you opened it that way also? My Rav4 V6 is at 107K so I want to try this stuff myself, coolant, transmission, transfer case, oil. It all looks simple enough except that one thing you open to get the first part of the coolant to drain.
+adam smith You can see the drain plug at 3:08 in the video there is a bolt on that drain plug 10mm you turn it counter clockwise to open it and clockwise to close it. If you look under the engine in front of the oil pan you will see it. I prefer to open the yellow drain plug from the top as the fluid will not spill on my hands. Thanks.
adam smith what is a transfer case?
Hey Richard thanks for sharing this great video....I have a 2011RAV4 and cannot find an air bleeder bolt anywhere....does it exist with this generation RAV4? Also, you didn't burp the system....is it not necessary?
I no longer own this Rav4 and don't have access to a 2011 but perhaps they got rid of the bolt. But in my Rav4 the manual said it will bleed the air on it's own. Thanks.
Can you tell me where you found the maintenance intervals on the manual of your rav4? I've tried looking on mine and can't seem to find it.
I no longer have the car or the manual but if you are in question about the service intervals just call the service department at your local Toyota dealer and they will verify the interval for you. Thanks.
Finally,There are alternatives available! Zerex Asian vehicle coolant can be found at Oreilly's and NAPA. Aisin Antifreeze/coolant Can also be found at NAPA. Beck /Arnley coolants for Asian Cars are sold at bumper to bumper auto parts. And if you have an Autozone near you, Pentosin A1 to A4 coolants are carried for Asian vehicles too. No more going to dealer ships.
The Toyota coolant is very expensive. You can also buy Zerex at Amazon: goo.gl/GFZrT
Absolutely! The dealer can charge whatever they want for it.
Thx a lot for this video, very helpful!
Thank you, this video is very helpful.
Very glad I could help you. Thanks for watching.
It is not neccesary to purge the system for air bubbles? Thanks!!
Can you reference the Toyota technical documentation that states this?
Thanks
Richard Lloyd It's just a real question... I had two other cars and they actually need to be purged for bubbles (a Jeep Liberty and an old Toyota Corolla -1992-.) I have been looking for any kind of "purge" bolt in my RAV4 for a long time and I couldn't find it; that's the reason I haven't done this service by myself in my RAV4 yet.
BTW, thanks for your video, is very comprehensive!
Rodras el Astur Rodríguez Sorry I misunderstood you. I thought you were making a statement. I didn't purge the system and I did not have any issues. This cooling system doesn't have a radiator cap. It is actually the cap on the reservoir with the coolant. I think and this is only a theory, that is why the reservoir is higher than the highest point on the engine so that the air flows to it. Again only my theory.
Richard Lloyd I am the one who is really sorry for this misunderstanding... I'm originally from Spain and English is my second language; as Celia Cruz (a very famous Salsa singer) used to say: "My English is not very good looking". I have to improve my English skills and this kind of misunderstandings will help me to get into my goal! Thanks again for your help!!!
Rodras el Astur Rodríguez No problem. My second language is English too. I was born in Argentina and my first language was Spanish.
Maybe you can help me being no mechanic has to this point. I had my head gasket replaced on my 08 Rav-4 in August and ever since i have had to fill it up with more coolant. No one can find a leak, and the mechanic who did the gasket is not local. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. I am using Prestone 50/50 to fill it up and do so when its either cold or been sitting awhile. There also no pressure when i take off the cap.
I would like to know why you had the head gasket changed in the first place?
Your real concern would be if the level keeps going down which indicates a leak of some type. Which you have indicated as to having.
I don't care what anyone says, coolant should not evaporate constantly. The coolant does not just disappear. It has to be going some place.
Check your oil level and see if it is high. The reason I say this is that if you have an internal leak in your engine (block or head) the coolant may be going into your oil. This is a serious situation which can cause engine failure if allowed to continue as the coolant will thin the oil reducing its viscosity and lubricating ability.
Check your oil filler cap and see if there is scum/sludge in the cap or sludge in your engine. This is another indication of a problem (Coolant in the engine oil or a bad PCV valve) etc.
Check your water pump for pink crud or coolant leak. This will probably require that you take the front passenger wheel off your vehicle to get a good look at it. There is a plastic panel you may need to remove to see it.
Last and not least if you have a head gasket leak your coolant may be leaking into your cylinders and burning in combustion which would more than likely show up in fouled plugs(Usually white fouling) but since you are not using Asian coolant it may be a different colour as well as excessive white exhaust.
If you still can't find it, have a mechanic do a prolonged pressure test on the cooling system. This should help isolate the leak.
Good luck.
The head gasket was replaced when on the way back from a road trip. The car was overheating and stalling when i called for a tow. There are no leaks anywhere, the oil is fine as well. Toyota even looked at it and found nothing, and being i am not under warrenty they easilly could have screwed me. The funny thing is the last guy who checked it found nothing and most have toped it off after. For the next few days with more driving then usual the coolant did not go down at all where as usually i would have filled it twice. Eventually it did go down and i am back to the usual routine with filling it up. There was pressure also at first and when i started to refill it it slowly got less and less to where there is no pressure when i take the cap off.
Charlie Cottone
Check the things I mentioned and tell me what you find. That pressure and coolant is going somewhere.
Charlie Cottone Have you cehcked to see if your engine is part of the stripped headbolt failure?
Mostafa Sheta
Is there a service bulletin on that for a 2008 Rav 4? I thought that issue was for older Toyota vehicles.
My Rav4 2008 has been leaking coolant. Took it to the mechanic but he couldn't find any leaks. I left it overnight with cardboard underneath and found a few drops in the morning. Any ideas?
Can you tell where the drops are coming from? Check your water pump for leaks around the bearing seal or the weeping hole. That will usually show up as pink crud. Check your oil and see if it is contaminated with coolant. Check the level and if it goes up from day to day you have a leak in your engine somewhere (head gasket or water jacket, block etc.) Look at your oil filler cap and see if there is any foam or scum on it or in your engine (evidence of an internal coolant leak). If you are losing coolant it's going somewhere. Also see if your exhaust is white which indicates that you are burning coolant. Your mechanic could have pressurised your cooling system to check for a leak or loss of pressure (Indicating a leak). Hope that helps. Thanks.
Thanks for the reply.
The drops are coming from next to the front-right wheel. There is some pink crud left underneath. Also I noticed inside the engine bay there was some pink residue but I couldn't find where it came from. I will take a look at the things you mentioned.
Also, are the cooling fans meant to start running straight away when you turn the engine on or do they come on once the engine is hot?
Sahil Chauhan The cooling fan should come on once the engine gets hot. If your engine is cold it should not turn on when the engine is first turned on. The AC on the car will trigger the fans as well. The passenger side of the engine is where the water pump is. If the water pump seals are leaking the coolant can be lost as steam at which point you will see pink deposits on the water pump but you wont see a leak underneath the car. You will have jack car up to take the passenger tire off the car (follow all safety protocols) and remove a plastic access panel in the wheel well to access the water pump. Thanks.
How long did this take you ?
45 minutes to an hour but remember I am video recording it so that slows me down considerably. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.
Thanks a lot for sharing. Very helpful. Wish I'd watched it BEFORE messing with it though :-)
You are most welcome. Thanks for watching.
Do you keep the pan in the same spot for the second part of draining or is there a second drain hole?
+Adam Smith Depending on the size of your pan you may have to move the pan to catch the fluid. Thanks.
+Richard Lloyd Thanks. This week I'm doing the transmission fluid and filter, next week I'm doing coolant and oil. Then transfer case and differential. And plugs last =)
+Adam Smith Great. I use nothing but synthetic for oil and transmission. Thanks.
+Richard Lloyd I used Toyota WS ATF but I didn't have a torque wrench and couldn't get that metal plate with the 17mm bolts off to access the 10mm bolts on the pan to change the filter. So I just drained and refilled the transmission fluid. I'm going to do the oil and coolant next week I think. Gonna use the Zerex for the coolant and Castrol Edge 5W-30 for the engine. I'll do the diff, transfer case, and power steering soon, too.
P.S. Still Adam here, forgot I was on my other account when I posted that.
Ive got 2009 2.5L 4cyl Rav4 do u have any idea where i could find the engine block drainage? Thanks
That is the same engine that is shown in the video so the drain plug should be in the same location. Thanks.
+Richard Lloyd i have the limited edition i dont knw if it differs but yah same engine thats why i watch ur video more than 10x but still wasted 3 hours the other day looking for that engine block drain plug...i'm all set to go only the problem is the location of that engine drain plug...
I don't have access to 2009 so I can't check to see if they did change it. Mine was a 2008 Limited and I show exactly where it is on that at the 3:07 mark in the video. It is on the front of the engine beside the exhaust manifold above the oil pan. That's the best I can do for you. Thanks.
It appears that the 2009+ don't have a block drain.
How many tubs of antifreeze does it take
If I remember correctly mine took one 4 liter jug. Thank you for watching and commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀
just buy 2 gallons to be safe. better to have some leftover than not have enough on hand when you doing the job.
Aren´t you supposed to flush the Toyota radiator? Or just drain and fill works?
As you see in the video it is not possible to drain all the fluid from the system and if you flush the system I think you would have the same issue with the fluid you used to flush the system with. I figure that is why the first scheduled flush is at 100,000 miles and every 50,000 after because you are always introducing new fluid to used fluid. Again I am just theorizing on this. Thanks for watching.
was that fully water mixed blended fluid in the containers , normally l think it needs to be mixed half and half with water. and leaving some old fluid in the system may not be the right way to change coolant, it can be flushed out with water , one guy used lots of distilled water , did not want any hose water left in the system when adding the coooland , but l think our water here is as good as distilled , even used on batteries. also some will use a cleaning fluid before the change, for example after changing waterpump that has oil film on it from the factory , to get rid of oil from surfaces inside to get more coolant to metal contact and better cooling .
The Zerex coolant comes premixed. As far as flushing and mixing with distilled water I think that is a bit of a missnomer as the distilled water tends to become acidic. Not sure if that is a good idea. I would follow the manufacturers suggestions to be safe.
ll, I have sienna 2006, after flush out the radiator, I now added water to the reservoir coolant, but it did not not seem to go to the radiator? I had the engine running for 10-15 minutes and turned on heat, the water seemed to stay in the reservoir. Please help.
+Richard Do I am not familiar with the 2006 Siena or it's engine so I am not sure it's the same but here is a video I found on how to do this on the Siena www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2006_Toyota_Sienna_LE_3.3L_V6/coolant_antifreeze/flush_coolant Thanks.
+Richard Lloyd
Hi Mr. Lloyd, thank you much for your help.
+Richard Do You are most welcome. Thanks for watching.
NM. Found it. Mine is black and I couldn't see it.
Hey, i want to ask you a question sir, can you tell me how do i open the Antifreeze filler gap because in my car (rav4 2013) i can't open it, its like she is stuck or something like that, so can you give me the right way so that i don't broke it ? and thanks for the video
It should twist off by unscrewing it counter clockwise. I don't own a Rav4 2013 so I am only assuming that it works the same way. You should only do this when the engine is cold as well. I would call your dealer and ask if there is a trick to it to make sure. BTW if you are worried about it you can purchase a new Rad Cap from Amazon for about $6 amzn.to/12fAkoj Order it ahead of time and when you get it try and twist it off. Please update us and tell us how it went. Thanks.
Richard Lloyd
Hello, i just want to thank you for the information, and it did work, i juste had to twist it in counter clockwise and force it a little bit and it worked. Thanks again and have a good day Mister Richard.
Klesk Hicham You are most welcome. Thank you for watching.
I still haven't done this yet. on my 2009 Rav4 that's not where it is. I can't even find it. My oil pan isn't even that shape.
Do you have the V6 engine? Thanks.
I have 2007 RAV4 sport v6 - do I need to flush the coolant first or just replace new one?
I would flush it but it's up to you. I am not familiar with the V6 but with the 4 you really can not fully remove all the coolant without flushing. Thanks.
or Asian coolant?!
thanks a lot!
You have to bleed the cooling system
Thank you for watching, commenting and the valuable feedback. I appreciate it greatly. All the best. 👍😀
At zoro $13. For one
Thanks
This video is awfully slow
You can change the play back speed on the video to make it faster. Thank you so much for commenting. I appreciate it greatly. All the best.👍😀