I had a shop install struts for me and the owner told me to get quick struts that they work the best so when I went to pick up my vehicle it made noise so owner said don’t know why making noise so got new ones same thing happened then said they just need to break in so I researched quick struts found out the spring comes smaller longer and worst things to use. So now I have to get oem struts which are way more expensive cause I believed this man so Ray I’ve been watching you and Mr.O and started buying me tools and I have been doing my own work and so far I’ve fixed my own money light, replaced my passenger half shaft, both front wheel bearings and sway bar links so keep up the great work👍
I have a rule of thumb - even when I have someone else work on my car. If it’s a major component involving suspension etc I will only allow an OEM part to be used. Can’t trust my life with some Chinese recreation
Your just need quality aftermarket. Buy something like Kyb. I've never had a problem when I buy customers aftermarket as long as I'm not buying parts store garbage and getting oem or good quality aftermarket.
Ray that vehicle had a bleeder valve in the same housing you were replacing. When pouring coolant you opened up that bleeder and once the coolant began to pour out in the bleeder you close it up and finish filing the coolant in the radiator. Once you finish, put the radiator cap and start the engine and it won’t overheat because of an air bubble in the system cause you already bled it at the beginning. It’s something that could be very useful for you in the future if you receive other Caravan with the 3.6lt Pentastar engine.
I agree but placing an Airvac tool on the coolant system would be easier. A coolant tool is only $77 and saves time. P0128 is a common problem and the tool will get some use.
I've found it doesn't work 100%. Despite bleeding it with that bleeder after I replaced the thermostat on my sisters van, there was still an air bubble stuck somewhere, probably behind the thermostat, that caused no heat and the engine to get hotter than usual, until the thermostat opened, after which, the bubble purged itself, and the next morning it needed a little more coolant and then heated up normally and had heat.
No, spring pressure has nothing to do with it; in this case, it practically does not depend on temperature. Inside the thermostat there is a certain substance similar to paraffin, which expands greatly from temperature, pressing on a thin rod that sticks out of the thermostat, the rod overcomes the resistance of the spring and opens the thermostat.
I've heard people talk about the paraffin in that little brass canister I need to open one up one day just to find out if it's really in there have a good day
11:36 That particular Thermostat has a "COOLANT AIR RELIEF VALVE" the screw like thing on top of that particular thermostat it can be opened to relieve air trapped in the coolant system.
It appears that the radiator drain (the little red one you were molesting with pliers) can be loosened/removed/tightened with a flat blade screwdriver. Many drains are like that.
17:30 The large o-ring is the improved design. The original design only had a small o-ring on the metal valve. Super common for the original design to fail.
My LS2 had a flat rubber gasket. It tore 3 times and would wedge itself in between the flat part and the copper part. Twice it stuck closed. The third time it stuck open and it wouldn’t heat up. Of course, it stuck closed in the summer and open in the winter. I drove 5 hours to Atlanta in January with it open. I had tepid heat occasionally. The first time it stuck closed I was in a traffic jam…in Florida…in July. It took me 3 hours to limp it 2 miles home.
I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure the thermostat uses a wax motor mechanism to open and shut. A small slug of wax tuned to the desired temperature expands when it heats up and melts and presses on that central pin pushing itself towards the spring opening the valve. I think that the golden? capsule in the middle of the valve plate of the thermostat is where the wax is.
You are correct, the wax in the brass capsule expands with temperature and opens the valve. Usually the opening temperature is stamped on the end of the capsule.
Yeah, not a bi metal spring. Wax has a strange characteristic in that melted wax increases greatly in volume compared to solid wax. Also, it is easy to produce wax that melts at any temperature desired within reason. So, a great little engine and one that won't fail and can be only let down by the mechanical parts.
I have 4 cars with 3.6 engines. I have had to do the plastic thermostat and the oil filter housing on all of them. There is a air release on the thermostat housing.
Enjoyed the vid. the thermostat uses a 'wax motor' to drive the pin against the housing, which lifts the piston/seal from the seat, the spring just closes it.
I normally find Ray pretty knowledgeable about all the different vehicles he works on. To hear him speak of a bi-metalic spring on a typical thermostat gives me pause. This is a basic part that is normally explained in a high school shop class. They've been building them this way for over half a century. I feel a bit let down today... I guess the important thing is finding the faulty part, not so much how it is supposed to work.
G’day Ray. Bet you never thought that watching your videos would come in handy for a chicken processing plant in Australia. Turns out the forked trim tool I’ve seen you use many times, including this video, was exactly what I needed to remove plastic pins that connect plastic product holders to a moving chain line. Removing about 4000 of these pins is normally very time consuming, using this tool it reduced the time it took by over 3 hours. You’re helping people in fields of work you never dreamed of. Love your work.
Hey Ray! The way that thermostat actually works isn't a bimetallic spring and the spring weakening, it's a wax motor (like a lot of thermostats). The brass cartridge in the middle has wax which expands as it warms up, and pushes out that little pin - which pushes the thermostat open against the spring. Same end result, but the more you know! Does look like the missing seal was the failure mode though, as excessive cooling would suggest the thermostat was being bypassed rather than sticking closed.
Ray, everything looks to be going swimmingly at the new place. So happy for you and your family. All that is missing are some doooooodly doooooos. But I know you are working on that.
One of the things I enjoy about your videos - you don't "skip over" things, such as showing how you checked the old thermostat AND what you found to be the problem. Then you go on to actually show how you can get air into the engine well after you THINK you've purged it all - I've seen more than one person lunch an engine because they "thought" they'd gotten all the air out!
1998 Mercury Grand Marquis, replaced the thermostat 3 times. I was sent the wrong o-ring all 3 times. So I've using the original seal that came with the car. Still seals. You stay safe!
I can learn the same thing more than once. That is the mark of a DIY. If any of us DIYers get to thinking we know it all, just remember we may only face a repair of any given type only once or twice. This is why content producers like Ray are so valuable to us.
a suggestion, you should probably recommend that the owner swap out that oil filter adapter housing to the newer style housing and filter, as that one has a tendency to break the oil filter bypass valve and get lodged in the filter causing the oil to continuously bypass and not filter... not good for a filter. :P I recommend the doorman 926-959, as it's been machined out of aluminum, rather than the OEM 68105583AA to 68105583AF housings, as it also is eliminating the issue with the plastic getting brittle and cracking as well, which is also an additional issue with the housings. it's about 30 mins to R&R.
the mark of a true pro fix, the one you can`t see, make my heart happy to see someone with so much pride in getting the job right. (severely lacking with most these days)
That is one of the things I always tried to do- make a repair, especially an electrical repair, and make it look like nothing had been done (except for shiny new parts).
I see a lot of trash bags in the road around the area I live, it's very annoying because it's old country roads. People are lazy and don't care about the farms and what not around me. There's a strawberry farm a couple miles from my house and people are constantly dumping garbage, fridges, microwaves etc. If my truck was still running, I'd go around and pick it up, but I'm currently down to just my Altima. Nice to see you using a bendy screwdriver, it's a rare site. Lol. I did learn something new today because I was unaware of those type of thermostats, that was good info. Great video Ray! I do appreciate the videos you post everyday. Knowledge is power and I'm always looking for more!! Have a great day!
@Rainman Ray's Repairs, nice job. I did the same job on our Caravan last year. Just be glad this wasn't the notorious "3.6 Pentastar tick/tap engine noise"...💀I replaced a camshaft (cam lobes were shredded by rocker arm frames) & all 48 rockers & lifters, talk about a PITA, especially for a "non-mechanic"... Back to the thermostat, the vehicle didn't exhibit shift issues but the temp hand never even made it to the mid-point. I think the temp is supposed to be around ~202-205°F, that's almost boiling for water of course that's why it's important to have a proper mix of coolant. As a kid, I used to think "anti-freeze" was just that, it was to prevent freezing but it also helps prevent overheating (& corrosion) as opposed to running straight water in the system. I wondered if you were replacing the hoses at the same time. I used one of those "coolant fill kits" with the adapters & bucket that fits atop the radiator. It was crazy how much air was in the system, the coolant was bubbling up in the "bucket" & finally all the coolant just went in... As for the type, I did get the recommended type. The coloring/coding etc., gets confusing because then they claim there are OAT and HOAT types and "can't be mixed" etc... I'm just wondering why can't we just stick with one type instead of trying to match codes/colors and so on... I mean oil/trans fluid is simplified enough, why can't coolant be... One thing people really need to be conscious of is the toxicity of anti-freeze/coolant not only to animals but humans! Definitely need to protect the skin & try to wash it off as quickly and thoroughly as possible. "Anti-freeze" damages the organs severely and whilst we're not talking about drinking it, many times we don't think about just how toxic chemicals are if we experience no immediate adverse effects.
He's right about the toxicity of coolant, it is HIGHLY poisonous and less than a drop can kill a person. You don't want that stuff on your skin, even a little bit. Gloves should always be used.
You have leaves..... Earlier just before the rocky mountain winter, my 04 Astro started not getting up to temp and threw a p0128 code. I took it to Jim's shop (a local mechanic) and told em to fire the parts cannon and wing a thermostat at it please. Next day I picked it up and the invoice for labor said "Fire the parts cannon and change the thermostat" :-) I might have tried but it look like a pita on the van and the temp sensor is accessible from the dog house on the rear drivers side head, if I was wrong. Well I was right and now it's full blast winter here but my van is toasty and geting up to 180 degrees now. Moral of the story - it's the thermostat. Unless it's not.
What are the odds! I have the exact same problem and trouble code in my 3.6 Pentastar in my Avenger R/T. Definitely gonna have this video on standby when I do the replacement this weekend.
Very thorough investigation. Not many of todays mechanics would have found that problem. My compliments sir. Old ' Geezer Gearhead' here. Thanks again for another interesting video.
Lights mounted on back wall facing down at about 45 degrees, depending on mounting height, provide light which is never blocked by an open hood.....I have a halo of lights in my garage...it is nice.
Ray...THANK YOU!! Have the same engine in my 2014 Dodge Journey. Same error code popped about 2 weeks ago. No sweat. I'll get around to it. Yesterday I noticed that the shifting was erratic when I first started driving. Thought "GREAT! Transmission is going!". You and this video just saved me a ton of worry and a big chunk of change for a diagnosis. Love your channel...and as soon as my wife hears your voice she hollers "Is that Ray?" and runs in to watch whatever you've posted. THANK YOU!! Keep it up!!
I love your videos. Ray, coincidentally I have this van as well as the Honda Odyssey and this video was posted 12 days exactly before my engine light came on with the same p0128 code. So now I have a video to guide myself with. Thank you!
There is. I’ve replaced one of those on our last van. It’s there to bleed the air out of the thermostat. These vans have heaters in the rear and air in the hoses is super easy to happen.
Witness marks so no one will see I was ever here...while attached to a brand new part! Made me smile. Good luck with the new shop. I also enjoy the Wife Unit.
Looks like that drain plug allows for a rubber tubing to be added on and direct the flow out, rather than just running all over the bumper and randomly dripping into the pan or the floor. Just curious if your fluid exchanger can handle fluids 140 degrees or more, like the coolant?
Ray thanks for the headache....Your comment and explanation on knowing nothing is making me think .Making my brain contort thus making my head hurt.....Thank you again for the pain..🤔😜😪
WHAT!!!! you don't have the BG coolant flush machine?😊. BG's service equipment do their job quite well,as you have experienced. A "spill proof " funnel set or a vacuum fluid installing system also works great.
The original coolant in the system looks like RV winter antifreeze to me. And doesn't Rainman have a radiator funnel that attaches to the filler? One of the ones with the plunger in it used to fill and burp radiators? I thought he did. I would buy him one on Amazon and send it to him but I'm broke. :(
It's supposed to be that HOAT ( Edit - *OAT* can't we just settle on one?!?!) antifreeze like the orange stuff in GM's. Mopar is the same, with a more red color. I know this because I just did a ~17 Jeep. That No-Spill funnel was a lifesaver too. There was so much trapped air it was crazy. Started thinking head gasket for a bit:/
Hello Ray! Love to watch your videos since....anyway, the red cap for draining the coolant has a slot in the middle for the "fat" flat tip short screwdriver to open/close it.
This is why I like to watch Ray he explains investigates his humor and he's just plan honest I wish I lived near him so he could work on my car when the time came thanks Ray
Could you have simulated thermostat operation by pinching off the main coolant return to the rad? Would the bypass circuit have recirculated enough coolant to significantly raise its temp? Also, now that we know there could be a loose o-ring in the system, wouldn't it have warranted at least flushing the system to see if you might get lucky and wash it out?
You should consider adding the description of the repair you perform to the description or title (preferably) of your videos for SEO purposes. That way if DIYers are looking for videos on how to replace the thermostat on a Chrysler T&C, they’ll see exactly how to do it. Just a suggestion to help bring in multiple audiences. Love your work/videos! Keep it up! 👊🏼
@@mrpesky163 yeah you can definitely add tags to the description the same way you can on Instagram or anything else like that. I’m not sure what role the tags play in the overall algorithm but it can’t hurt if someone is directly searching for a specific repair.
I was amazed to see you spray out the engine bay with a hose to clean up. I wish all mechanics took the few seconds for that! I paid $8K for a new engine in my Kia. When I got it back i kinda expected it to look cleanish! Nope, the engine bay looked worse then when i dropped it off and the whole exterior was horrible from waiting on a motor for 2.5 months! a few sprits of degreaser and a quick trip through a car wash would have made all the difference! Worst of all when i was inspecting the engine bay when i got it back, coolant was a gallon low. I topped it off then detailed the engine bay! The dealership offered to pay me for a gallon of a coolant! I wish there were more Ray's in the automotive industry! Ray I'm from PA, but if you ever need a drywall Finisher/Painter! I appreciate your extra care in you customers vehicles! I do the same in homes and businesses!
Watching this morning on a battery that's dying, had Tornado yesterday afternoon, took all siding off our house,no electricity, cold, but still get latest Ray video!
Greetings from the northeast, hi Ray this spring on the thermostat only applies pressure to the valve, the brass piece in the middle has a wax motor which is very simple when the wax is heated up in the motor it pushes a piston out slowly and that's how the thermostat works very simple very ingenious and very reliable. You can also find wax motors in your dishwasher and I also found one in a diesel engine in a backhoe that once it heated up changed the timing. Buddy
Not enjoying these new videos I'm LOVING THEM, best move ever going out on your own, your a true professional sir. Keep up the great work Ray &wife unit.
Ray Has taught me all i need to know about gravity, powering on, powering off, engines, lube and mechanic's noises. I can now rotate my tyres and change light bulbs on my vehicle thanks to Ray. Green subscribe button has been pressed. Oh, and wibbly bits and clicks.
This particular episode of yours will help me directly with the same problem pluss no heat that I have in my 09 Chrysler 300 which has had two thermostat put in it at the same shop . I still have the same problem so I'm going to do it myself.
Hi Ray if you put the thermostat in a pan of boiling water you should see the brass part is full of a wax that expands pushing the pin opening the stat.
Ford has that same drain valve. I use a stubby flat blade to open it. I can keep the hot coolant off of me and don’t have to worry about leaving plier marks on the plastic.
I knew from the code what the issue was. My wife had a 2011 T&C doing the same thing. The o ring on the thermostat had deteriorated and was in the cooling system in chunks. We flushed it as best we could and problem was solved. Good job Ray!
Great video, Ray! Did you open up the bleeder screw at the thermostat to help free up the air in the system? These engines are also notorious for the oil leaking in the middle of the engine, under the intake manifold. I think you did a repair on one when you were at the previous shop.!!!! I always look forward to your videos every day!
That would be the infamous oil cooler leak, fills the intake valley and runs over the top of the transmission, looks like a main crank seal leaking to the untrained eye.
Step One in troubleshooting: verify that the reported problem exists and is the actual problem. Did we run the engine until the cooling fan came on (to verify its operation) and then take the car for a drive to see how the temperature gauge reacts? Sometimes backflushing the cooling system will solve the problem. If not, at least you won't be working in antifreeze when you replace the thermostat. He didn't tell us anything about the three "failed" tire pressure sensors. Since Florida just experienced a cold snap I'm sure that a lot of stuck open thermostats and underinflated tires were revealed. Since the lone reporting sensor is showing 38 psi the odds of the pressure exceeding the sensor maximum are greater than three sensors failing at the same time.
3.6 pentastar thermostats are about as common to fail as a 4l60e transmission or 6.0 head gaskets. The new part is less than $30 from the dealer and replacement takes less than an hour. These vans are approaching or exceeding 10 years in age and replacement is really a no brainer. a P0128 on a pentastar equipped Chrysler will be a bad thermostat 99.9% of the time.
Jeez, I'd be tempted to get that gate motorised with a remote. Also, I wonder if you could purchase Brake Clean in bulk liquid form and use it with a spray gun. You could save on all those cans.
@@dave22r2, Amazon sells them and they’re not real expensive, I seen a lot of them in flea markets that are really cheap. Made in the U.S.A. like you said and they make a really good repair kit if you ever need to rebuild one.
That was the first thing I did when I changed the radiator on my blazer was chane from the orange stuff chevy used in the late 90's to the all make and model green coolant.
That new thermostat housing had a bleeder on it to help remove the air. I'm sure you knew about it. I was waiting to see how you use it. I've never used one after radiator work.
Those shady mechanics are giving you all their customers there Ray. People are becoming more aware of their vehicles and understanding what things are needed because they’re doing the research and hopefully those shady mechanics are going to be a thing of the past.
Sadly I wouldn't bet on that happening anytime soon. There are some people out there that are simply ignorant to learning anything about their cars. Either they don't care or they know they have money they can just "pay someone else/professional to fix it". Oh well though! That's what costs them more money in the long run because either they get a shady mechanic and get taken advantage of, or they get lucky and get an honest mechanic. Sadly the latter is not so common anymore. It's all a choice. You can choose to be ignorant and not learn and get taken advantage of or you can take initiative to learn. Knowledge is power.
Thermostats open by expansion, not contraction. That is brass piece contains wax. As it heats it expands and pushes back against the spring, opening the path. No bimetallic spring needed. Of course, if the seal goes away it's just going through the motions.
Last person to replace the thermostat was probably wondering why there was a spare "O" ring, not realizing it was meant to be used. I've found them loose in the box in the few I have done recently.
@RainmaRay It isn't the spring that operates the thermostat. The center slug is full of wax, it has a piston, as the wax heats and expands, the rod pushes the thermostat open.😁 👍🇺🇸😎
You never fail to impress, another quality diagnosis and fix. Diligent as always and great taste in music too. Seeing how different you are with your own place tells us your a heck of a lot happier.
When working on my Z, major surgery, new engine and mods, a buddy left a red shop towel in each runner. Then we proceeded to trouble shoot it for half a day. Fun times..
MGB's have core plugs on the inlet manifold our mechanic had great fun after a back fire coughed one off caused him hours of fun till I spotted it on the floor!
Thank you for this one. I own the exact year and model here in Ohio. Been having some similar issues. Including the tire sensors... You have confirmed a suspicion I've had about mine. Ordering a thermostat now...
We used to check thermostats ( old school) with a thermometer and an old pan with heated water on the stove. watch the thermostat open and look at the thermometer temperature.
Ray, I wish you'd go back to using the yellow colored house-brand universal coolant. Not only is it cheaper than Prestone and works just as good, it looks real sweet being poured in.
Ray- ever try something like "Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel". I've got one and love it... made in USA too! Sure Shot brake cleaner sprayer too, but the canned brake cleaner market may crash if you get one of those.
I had a shop install struts for me and the owner told me to get quick struts that they work the best so when I went to pick up my vehicle it made noise so owner said don’t know why making noise so got new ones same thing happened then said they just need to break in so I researched quick struts found out the spring comes smaller longer and worst things to use. So now I have to get oem struts which are way more expensive cause I believed this man so Ray I’ve been watching you and Mr.O and started buying me tools and I have been doing my own work and so far I’ve fixed my own money light, replaced my passenger half shaft, both front wheel bearings and sway bar links so keep up the great work👍
I have a rule of thumb - even when I have someone else work on my car. If it’s a major component involving suspension etc I will only allow an OEM part to be used. Can’t trust my life with some Chinese recreation
Check sway bar bushings, not the links, but the bushings. Also check ball joints. Quick struts are good if you buy name brand.
Exactly 💯
I just had all 4 struts replaces on my antique Camry. Parts are becoming very rare. I had to use what could be found. Hopefully they won’t kill me. 🙄
Your just need quality aftermarket. Buy something like Kyb. I've never had a problem when I buy customers aftermarket as long as I'm not buying parts store garbage and getting oem or good quality aftermarket.
Ray that vehicle had a bleeder valve in the same housing you were replacing. When pouring coolant you opened up that bleeder and once the coolant began to pour out in the bleeder you close it up and finish filing the coolant in the radiator. Once you finish, put the radiator cap and start the engine and it won’t overheat because of an air bubble in the system cause you already bled it at the beginning. It’s something that could be very useful for you in the future if you receive other Caravan with the 3.6lt Pentastar engine.
X2
I agree but placing an Airvac tool on the coolant system would be easier. A coolant tool is only $77 and saves time. P0128 is a common problem and the tool will get some use.
Bingo 👊🏻
At 16:45 you can see the bleed valve and hole.
I've found it doesn't work 100%. Despite bleeding it with that bleeder after I replaced the thermostat on my sisters van, there was still an air bubble stuck somewhere, probably behind the thermostat, that caused no heat and the engine to get hotter than usual, until the thermostat opened, after which, the bubble purged itself, and the next morning it needed a little more coolant and then heated up normally and had heat.
No, spring pressure has nothing to do with it; in this case, it practically does not depend on temperature. Inside the thermostat there is a certain substance similar to paraffin, which expands greatly from temperature, pressing on a thin rod that sticks out of the thermostat, the rod overcomes the resistance of the spring and opens the thermostat.
I agree.
So do I.
Close, it has a bladder filled with wax and copper dust mix, The copper helps with heat transfer.
I've heard people talk about the paraffin in that little brass canister I need to open one up one day just to find out if it's really in there have a good day
@@michaelpressman7203 You will cut it open to find a bladder containing a mix of wax and copper dust, so nothing toxic enjoy.
11:36 That particular Thermostat has a "COOLANT AIR RELIEF VALVE" the screw like thing on top of that particular thermostat it can be opened to relieve air trapped in the coolant system.
It appears that the radiator drain (the little red one you were molesting with pliers) can be loosened/removed/tightened with a flat blade screwdriver. Many drains are like that.
I always use the bleed screw on the thermostat housing when filling helps prevent air pockets and surging.
17:30 The large o-ring is the improved design. The original design only had a small o-ring on the metal valve. Super common for the original design to fail.
My LS2 had a flat rubber gasket. It tore 3 times and would wedge itself in between the flat part and the copper part. Twice it stuck closed. The third time it stuck open and it wouldn’t heat up. Of course, it stuck closed in the summer and open in the winter. I drove 5 hours to Atlanta in January with it open. I had tepid heat occasionally. The first time it stuck closed I was in a traffic jam…in Florida…in July. It took me 3 hours to limp it 2 miles home.
I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure the thermostat uses a wax motor mechanism to open and shut. A small slug of wax tuned to the desired temperature expands when it heats up and melts and presses on that central pin pushing itself towards the spring opening the valve. I think that the golden? capsule in the middle of the valve plate of the thermostat is where the wax is.
This answer is completely correct. 👍
@@general1977 I concur.
You are correct, the wax in the brass capsule expands with temperature and opens the valve. Usually the opening temperature is stamped on the end of the capsule.
Yeah, not a bi metal spring. Wax has a strange characteristic in that melted wax increases greatly in volume compared to solid wax. Also, it is easy to produce wax that melts at any temperature desired within reason. So, a great little engine and one that won't fail and can be only let down by the mechanical parts.
Good call. Saved me the typing.
I have 4 cars with 3.6 engines. I have had to do the plastic thermostat and the oil filter housing on all of them. There is a air release on the thermostat housing.
It appears to be an updated part at 17:11 you can see thermostat on the left is cone shaped on the brass and the new one is flat.
I agree. I don't think there was ever a rubber seal on that existing OEM stat. In fact I've never seen a rubber seal on any of my vehicles stats.
I was surprised you didn't use your fancy no spill funnel to service and burp the coolant system. Great informative video (needless to say)!
Yeah, what happened to your fancy no spill funnel???
Or any funnel jammed in there with a clean shop rag will do 💦☔. Keeps things neat and clean.
He probably can't find it! 😆
he needs to get himself a vacuum fill tool. purge the air out and then let it get sucked in, takes care of 99% of coolant fill issues.
@@annettaaltensey2477 I can believe that...moving is hectic.
Theres a bleed screw on the thermostat housing Raymondo.
Only reason I know is because I just watched Eric O do the same job👍
Enjoyed the vid. the thermostat uses a 'wax motor' to drive the pin against the housing, which lifts the piston/seal from the seat, the spring just closes it.
I normally find Ray pretty knowledgeable about all the different vehicles he works on. To hear him speak of a bi-metalic spring on a typical thermostat gives me pause. This is a basic part that is normally explained in a high school shop class. They've been building them this way for over half a century. I feel a bit let down today... I guess the important thing is finding the faulty part, not so much how it is supposed to work.
G’day Ray. Bet you never thought that watching your videos would come in handy for a chicken processing plant in Australia. Turns out the forked trim tool I’ve seen you use many times, including this video, was exactly what I needed to remove plastic pins that connect plastic product holders to a moving chain line. Removing about 4000 of these pins is normally very time consuming, using this tool it reduced the time it took by over 3 hours. You’re helping people in fields of work you never dreamed of. Love your work.
Royalty Fee??? 2 eggs
Hey Ray! The way that thermostat actually works isn't a bimetallic spring and the spring weakening, it's a wax motor (like a lot of thermostats). The brass cartridge in the middle has wax which expands as it warms up, and pushes out that little pin - which pushes the thermostat open against the spring. Same end result, but the more you know! Does look like the missing seal was the failure mode though, as excessive cooling would suggest the thermostat was being bypassed rather than sticking closed.
Ray, everything looks to be going swimmingly at the new place. So happy for you and your family. All that is missing are some doooooodly doooooos. But I know you are working on that.
Thanks for not posting a bleeder screw comment :)
At least at Ray's new shoppie has a hose nozzle the last shop would never provide one and they only cost $5 have a good day
Yea, we need some dooooooodly dooooos!
The congratulations message is a scam.
@@michaelpressman7203 Not only that - It's the "deluxe" variable nozzle ;)
What happened to that rad fill funnel you used to use? The one that was non spill and had a plug when it was full.
One of the things I enjoy about your videos - you don't "skip over" things, such as showing how you checked the old thermostat AND what you found to be the problem. Then you go on to actually show how you can get air into the engine well after you THINK you've purged it all - I've seen more than one person lunch an engine because they "thought" they'd gotten all the air out!
Dude - stop trying to rip folks off on the back of someone else's HONEST work!!!
A funnel kit, with a resiviour above the rad and a fitting makes purging easier with less mess…
1998 Mercury Grand Marquis, replaced the thermostat 3 times. I was sent the wrong o-ring all 3 times. So I've using the original seal that came with the car. Still seals. You stay safe!
I can learn the same thing more than once. That is the mark of a DIY. If any of us DIYers get to thinking we know it all, just remember we may only face a repair of any given type only once or twice. This is why content producers like Ray are so valuable to us.
That is one way in growing as a person is to admit you have not learned it all if you think you know it all you know nothing have a good day
a suggestion, you should probably recommend that the owner swap out that oil filter adapter housing to the newer style housing and filter, as that one has a tendency to break the oil filter bypass valve and get lodged in the filter causing the oil to continuously bypass and not filter... not good for a filter. :P
I recommend the doorman 926-959, as it's been machined out of aluminum, rather than the OEM 68105583AA to 68105583AF housings, as it also is eliminating the issue with the plastic getting brittle and cracking as well, which is also an additional issue with the housings. it's about 30 mins to R&R.
the mark of a true pro fix, the one you can`t see, make my heart happy to see someone with so much pride in getting the job right. (severely lacking with most these days)
That is one of the things I always tried to do- make a repair, especially an electrical repair, and make it look like nothing had been done (except for shiny new parts).
I see a lot of trash bags in the road around the area I live, it's very annoying because it's old country roads. People are lazy and don't care about the farms and what not around me. There's a strawberry farm a couple miles from my house and people are constantly dumping garbage, fridges, microwaves etc. If my truck was still running, I'd go around and pick it up, but I'm currently down to just my Altima. Nice to see you using a bendy screwdriver, it's a rare site. Lol. I did learn something new today because I was unaware of those type of thermostats, that was good info. Great video Ray! I do appreciate the videos you post everyday. Knowledge is power and I'm always looking for more!! Have a great day!
People are such buttholes
And very nice lighting Ray . The lighting makes all the difference on this end .
A good repair is one that corrects the problem!
@Rainman Ray's Repairs, nice job. I did the same job on our Caravan last year. Just be glad this wasn't the notorious "3.6 Pentastar tick/tap engine noise"...💀I replaced a camshaft (cam lobes were shredded by rocker arm frames) & all 48 rockers & lifters, talk about a PITA, especially for a "non-mechanic"... Back to the thermostat, the vehicle didn't exhibit shift issues but the temp hand never even made it to the mid-point. I think the temp is supposed to be around ~202-205°F, that's almost boiling for water of course that's why it's important to have a proper mix of coolant. As a kid, I used to think "anti-freeze" was just that, it was to prevent freezing but it also helps prevent overheating (& corrosion) as opposed to running straight water in the system.
I wondered if you were replacing the hoses at the same time. I used one of those "coolant fill kits" with the adapters & bucket that fits atop the radiator. It was crazy how much air was in the system, the coolant was bubbling up in the "bucket" & finally all the coolant just went in... As for the type, I did get the recommended type. The coloring/coding etc., gets confusing because then they claim there are OAT and HOAT types and "can't be mixed" etc... I'm just wondering why can't we just stick with one type instead of trying to match codes/colors and so on... I mean oil/trans fluid is simplified enough, why can't coolant be...
One thing people really need to be conscious of is the toxicity of anti-freeze/coolant not only to animals but humans! Definitely need to protect the skin & try to wash it off as quickly and thoroughly as possible. "Anti-freeze" damages the organs severely and whilst we're not talking about drinking it, many times we don't think about just how toxic chemicals are if we experience no immediate adverse effects.
He's right about the toxicity of coolant, it is HIGHLY poisonous and less than a drop can kill a person. You don't want that stuff on your skin, even a little bit. Gloves should always be used.
You have leaves.....
Earlier just before the rocky mountain winter, my 04 Astro started not getting up to temp and threw a p0128 code. I took it to Jim's shop (a local mechanic) and told em to fire the parts cannon and wing a thermostat at it please. Next day I picked it up and the invoice for labor said "Fire the parts cannon and change the thermostat" :-) I might have tried but it look like a pita on the van and the temp sensor is accessible from the dog house on the rear drivers side head, if I was wrong. Well I was right and now it's full blast winter here but my van is toasty and geting up to 180 degrees now.
Moral of the story - it's the thermostat.
Unless it's not.
Hi Ray, I noticed that the thermostat housing has a little air purge valve on the side of it to purge air out of the cooling system
What are the odds! I have the exact same problem and trouble code in my 3.6 Pentastar in my Avenger R/T. Definitely gonna have this video on standby when I do the replacement this weekend.
Very thorough investigation. Not many of todays mechanics would have found that problem. My compliments sir. Old ' Geezer Gearhead' here. Thanks again for another interesting video.
@GIVEAWAY-673 get lost scammer
Pro tip: A straight screwdriver opens that red coolant drain way quicker and easier than pliers. And I did indeed enjoy this video. 👍👍
Purchased the hose clamp pliers a couple years ago. Great tool.
I watch your videos when doing morning exercise. Great stuff, keep up the good work.
The pliers with the cable? Those do come in handy.
Lights mounted on back wall facing down at about 45 degrees, depending on mounting height, provide light which is never blocked by an open hood.....I have a halo of lights in my garage...it is nice.
26:10 On the thermostat housing there is a bleeder screw. You need to open this when filling the coolant system.
Ray...THANK YOU!!
Have the same engine in my 2014 Dodge Journey.
Same error code popped about 2 weeks ago. No sweat. I'll get around to it.
Yesterday I noticed that the shifting was erratic when I first started driving. Thought "GREAT! Transmission is going!".
You and this video just saved me a ton of worry and a big chunk of change for a diagnosis.
Love your channel...and as soon as my wife hears your voice she hollers "Is that Ray?" and runs in to watch whatever you've posted.
THANK YOU!!
Keep it up!!
Hey Ray!!!!
That’s Gold….
Watching the worlds most patient mechanic and hearing rage against the machine in the background 😂😂😂😂.
Cheers from OZ👍
I love your videos. Ray, coincidentally I have this van as well as the Honda Odyssey and this video was posted 12 days exactly before my engine light came on with the same p0128 code. So now I have a video to guide myself with. Thank you!
It looked like there was a bleeder on the thermostat housing.
There is. I’ve replaced one of those on our last van. It’s there to bleed the air out of the thermostat. These vans have heaters in the rear and air in the hoses is super easy to happen.
You beat me to it
I believe you meant to say Ethylene Glycol.. Propylene Glycol is used for pipes, RV's and boats since it is non-toxic.
You are right Ray, we learn something new everyday. Thanks for sharing the video as always.
Love how you show your thinking/diagnostic process. It seems your speculation pretty much says, plastic parts are inferior. No?
The best way to get the air out of the system is to open the bleeder screw on the thermostat housing.
Not all cars have bleeder screws ...
@@ACommenterOnTH-cam I know that. I was referring to the one in the video.
Witness marks so no one will see I was ever here...while attached to a brand new part! Made me smile. Good luck with the new shop. I also enjoy the Wife Unit.
Looks like that drain plug allows for a rubber tubing to be added on and direct the flow out, rather than just running all over the bumper and randomly dripping into the pan or the floor.
Just curious if your fluid exchanger can handle fluids 140 degrees or more, like the coolant?
whats wrong with randomly dripping into the pan?
There is a slot in the top of that red cap for the drain. this is for a slotted screw driver so you can open / close the drain.
There's a bleeder on the thermostat housings
Ray thanks for the headache....Your comment and explanation on knowing nothing is making me think .Making my brain contort thus making my head hurt.....Thank you again for the pain..🤔😜😪
P0128 is a really common code on Chrysler I’ve realized that
Hey, I replaced the thermostat housing on our van last month! Fun seeing familiar work.
Looks like a flat blade screwdriver could be used to open the drain on the radiator.
noticed that too
WHAT!!!! you don't have the BG coolant flush machine?😊. BG's service equipment do their job quite well,as you have experienced. A "spill proof " funnel set or a vacuum fluid installing system also works great.
He’s got bills first. AC machine would be more useful in Florida
The original coolant in the system looks like RV winter antifreeze to me.
And doesn't Rainman have a radiator funnel that attaches to the filler? One of the ones with the plunger in it used to fill and burp radiators? I thought he did. I would buy him one on Amazon and send it to him but I'm broke. :(
It's supposed to be that HOAT ( Edit - *OAT* can't we just settle on one?!?!) antifreeze like the orange stuff in GM's. Mopar is the same, with a more red color. I know this because I just did a ~17 Jeep. That No-Spill funnel was a lifesaver too. There was so much trapped air it was crazy. Started thinking head gasket for a bit:/
@@182QKFTW Amen that funnel is a life saver! Works great on the old 4.0's as well. Those were notorious for trapping air!.
Funnel sent. :)
@@kencramer1697 Wow, that's awesome of you to do that Ken!
Hey, you did the oil change when we weren’t looking, raw deal man. Now I’ll have watch an old video of yours, thanks a lot Ray.
Thank you for another lesson.
Did the thermostat change fix the erratic shifting problem ?
Enjoy your workmanship and comments along the way.
Hello Ray! Love to watch your videos since....anyway, the red cap for draining the coolant has a slot in the middle for the "fat" flat tip short screwdriver to open/close it.
This is why I like to watch Ray he explains investigates his humor and he's just plan honest I wish I lived near him so he could work on my car when the time came thanks Ray
Could you have simulated thermostat operation by pinching off the main coolant return to the rad? Would the bypass circuit have recirculated enough coolant to significantly raise its temp?
Also, now that we know there could be a loose o-ring in the system, wouldn't it have warranted at least flushing the system to see if you might get lucky and wash it out?
Taking parts and showing how they work or how it failed not many mechanics do that and it's really helpful to
You should consider adding the description of the repair you perform to the description or title (preferably) of your videos for SEO purposes. That way if DIYers are looking for videos on how to replace the thermostat on a Chrysler T&C, they’ll see exactly how to do it. Just a suggestion to help bring in multiple audiences.
Love your work/videos! Keep it up! 👊🏼
Good point Steven. I wonder if TH-cam lets content providers add "tags" to their videos to help make them more search friendly also?
@@mrpesky163 yeah you can definitely add tags to the description the same way you can on Instagram or anything else like that. I’m not sure what role the tags play in the overall algorithm but it can’t hurt if someone is directly searching for a specific repair.
I was amazed to see you spray out the engine bay with a hose to clean up. I wish all mechanics took the few seconds for that! I paid $8K for a new engine in my Kia. When I got it back i kinda expected it to look cleanish! Nope, the engine bay looked worse then when i dropped it off and the whole exterior was horrible from waiting on a motor for 2.5 months! a few sprits of degreaser and a quick trip through a car wash would have made all the difference! Worst of all when i was inspecting the engine bay when i got it back, coolant was a gallon low. I topped it off then detailed the engine bay! The dealership offered to pay me for a gallon of a coolant! I wish there were more Ray's in the automotive industry! Ray I'm from PA, but if you ever need a drywall Finisher/Painter! I appreciate your extra care in you customers vehicles! I do the same in homes and businesses!
Watching this morning on a battery that's dying, had Tornado yesterday afternoon, took all siding off our house,no electricity, cold, but still get latest Ray video!
Good luck with that mess!
Greetings from the northeast, hi Ray this spring on the thermostat only applies pressure to the valve, the brass piece in the middle has a wax motor which is very simple when the wax is heated up in the motor it pushes a piston out slowly and that's how the thermostat works very simple very ingenious and very reliable. You can also find wax motors in your dishwasher and I also found one in a diesel engine in a backhoe that once it heated up changed the timing.
Buddy
Have you thought about getting a vacuum coolant filler?
Not enjoying these new videos I'm LOVING THEM, best move ever going out on your own, your a true professional sir. Keep up the great work Ray &wife unit.
Ray Has taught me all i need to know about gravity, powering on, powering off, engines, lube and mechanic's noises. I can now rotate my tyres and change light bulbs on my vehicle thanks to Ray. Green subscribe button has been pressed. Oh, and wibbly bits and clicks.
Not to mention a do-de-do-de-do phone and Wife Unit!
Gravity ... lol ...
hi Ray, nice to see that you got a nozzle for your garden hose in your new shop. The lack of same hose nozzle at the old shop was noted. cheers
If you would have taken the vent screw out of the thermostat it would have got more of the air out on refilling the cooling system.
@@voisindo it's a brand new housing for the thermostat. Did you watch the same video I did?
@@ryansmithley6095 my apologies. I apparently wasn't watching very closely. I still wouldn't have used the bleed screw.
Thermostats used to come with a bleeder hole that had to be installed at the highest point.
This particular episode of yours will help me directly with the same problem pluss no heat that I have in my 09 Chrysler 300 which has had two thermostat put in it at the same shop .
I still have the same problem so I'm going to do it myself.
Hi Ray if you put the thermostat in a pan of boiling water you should see the brass part is full of a wax that expands pushing the pin opening the stat.
was about to comment the same. but as ray said, he knows nothing XD just kidding ;)
I did raise my eyebrows at the mention of a bi-metallic spring. . . . . . . . . . . 15:01
Swelling the bladder that pushes the pin. 😇
The symptom was a stuck OPEN thermostat. He should have poured water thru one side or blown thru it to see if it was stuck open.
Ford has that same drain valve. I use a stubby flat blade to open it. I can keep the hot coolant off of me and don’t have to worry about leaving plier marks on the plastic.
A repair that went according to plan ! Thanks for sharing!
I knew from the code what the issue was. My wife had a 2011 T&C doing the same thing. The o ring on the thermostat had deteriorated and was in the cooling system in chunks. We flushed it as best we could and problem was solved. Good job Ray!
Great video, Ray! Did you open up the bleeder screw at the thermostat to help free up the air in the system? These engines are also notorious for the oil leaking in the middle of the engine, under the intake manifold. I think you did a repair on one when you were at the previous shop.!!!! I always look forward to your videos every day!
That would be the infamous oil cooler leak, fills the intake valley and runs over the top of the transmission, looks like a main crank seal leaking to the untrained eye.
Step One in troubleshooting: verify that the reported problem exists and is the actual problem. Did we run the engine until the cooling fan came on (to verify its operation) and then take the car for a drive to see how the temperature gauge reacts? Sometimes backflushing the cooling system will solve the problem. If not, at least you won't be working in antifreeze when you replace the thermostat.
He didn't tell us anything about the three "failed" tire pressure sensors. Since Florida just experienced a cold snap I'm sure that a lot of stuck open thermostats and underinflated tires were revealed. Since the lone reporting sensor is showing 38 psi the odds of the pressure exceeding the sensor maximum are greater than three sensors failing at the same time.
3.6 pentastar thermostats are about as common to fail as a 4l60e transmission or 6.0 head gaskets. The new part is less than $30 from the dealer and replacement takes less than an hour. These vans are approaching or exceeding 10 years in age and replacement is really a no brainer. a P0128 on a pentastar equipped Chrysler will be a bad thermostat 99.9% of the time.
Jeez, I'd be tempted to get that gate motorised with a remote.
Also, I wonder if you could purchase Brake Clean in bulk liquid form and use it with a spray gun. You could save on all those cans.
it comes in 55 gal. drums. The opener was asked about in the Wife unit video by the wife unit. It's not theirs so, nope.
Sure Shot sprayer is amazing with bulk brake cleaner. Made in USA
@@clbcl5 would possibly safe you money on cleaner used and emissions of propellent in your lungs as based on butaine and other poisonous gases.
Some lube on the gate bearings and rollers may be in order as well to make it roll as easy as possible.
@@dave22r2, Amazon sells them and they’re not real expensive, I seen a lot of them in flea markets that are really cheap. Made in the U.S.A. like you said and they make a really good repair kit if you ever need to rebuild one.
That was the first thing I did when I changed the radiator on my blazer was chane from the orange stuff chevy used in the late 90's to the all make and model green coolant.
That new thermostat housing had a bleeder on it to help remove the air. I'm sure you knew about it. I was waiting to see how you use it. I've never used one after radiator work.
Actually I think the original and the replacement had the bleeder.
Looks like the Chrysler pink radiator juice, pretty much standard for any of them
Great lighting in the shop Ray and excellent video and commentary - very enjoyable way to spend the last 30 mins.😊
That would be Dexcool. Dealers say its a lifetime coolant. That is BS!
It's lifetime, I know of fleets that run it until coolant component failure and only then add new coolant and they are all fine.
Those shady mechanics are giving you all their customers there Ray. People are becoming more aware of their vehicles and understanding what things are needed because they’re doing the research and hopefully those shady mechanics are going to be a thing of the past.
Sadly I wouldn't bet on that happening anytime soon. There are some people out there that are simply ignorant to learning anything about their cars. Either they don't care or they know they have money they can just "pay someone else/professional to fix it". Oh well though! That's what costs them more money in the long run because either they get a shady mechanic and get taken advantage of, or they get lucky and get an honest mechanic. Sadly the latter is not so common anymore. It's all a choice. You can choose to be ignorant and not learn and get taken advantage of or you can take initiative to learn. Knowledge is power.
Just wait until you see the Chrysler Pacifica hybrid cooling system. It has a great deal of options for future problems engineered into it.
Fix the oil cap! It's bugging the schmoo outta me! 😆 🤣 😂
Didn't see an oil cap, but there WAS a 710 cap on something in there..😎😎
Thermostats open by expansion, not contraction. That is brass piece contains wax. As it heats it expands and pushes back against the spring, opening the path. No bimetallic spring needed.
Of course, if the seal goes away it's just going through the motions.
A quick backflush of the heater core would’ve been desirable when switching colors of coolant.
That is unnecessary and a waste of time. The Prestone works in everything, no flush needed.
Changed my thermostat for the same reason on my 2016 dodge caravan a month ago. Did it all by myself.
Very interesting and well done with the missing gasket from the thermostat. Great as always.
Last person to replace the thermostat was probably wondering why there was a spare "O" ring, not realizing it was meant to be used. I've found them loose in the box in the few I have done recently.
@RainmaRay
It isn't the spring that operates the thermostat.
The center slug is full of wax, it has a piston, as the wax heats and expands, the rod pushes the thermostat open.😁
👍🇺🇸😎
You never fail to impress, another quality diagnosis and fix. Diligent as always and great taste in music too.
Seeing how different you are with your own place tells us your a heck of a lot happier.
When working on my Z, major surgery, new engine and mods, a buddy left a red shop towel in each runner. Then we proceeded to trouble shoot it for half a day. Fun times..
MGB's have core plugs on the inlet manifold our mechanic had great fun after a back fire coughed one off caused him hours of fun till I spotted it on the floor!
I always wonder where he gets all those service manuals
I believe he is using All Data.
Back when cars were simple, there were two "bibles" for mechanics, the Chilton's and the Motor's manuals.
There also were the manufacturer service manuals which were quite pricey...
Thank you for this one. I own the exact year and model here in Ohio. Been having some similar issues. Including the tire sensors... You have confirmed a suspicion I've had about mine. Ordering a thermostat now...
It's good that we know we don't know what we don't know. Yep. Also great instructional video!
We used to check thermostats ( old school) with a thermometer and an old pan with heated water on the stove. watch the thermostat open and look at the thermometer temperature.
As soon as he said the word “Chrysler”, I braced myself for the dreaded “PT Cruiser”. Was I disappointed or was I NOT disappointed????
I'm sick of PT Losers
Ray, I wish you'd go back to using the yellow colored house-brand universal coolant. Not only is it cheaper than Prestone and works just as good, it looks real sweet being poured in.
this the kind of mechanic that makes you wish your car would break down just for him to fix it
Ray- ever try something like "Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel". I've got one and love it... made in USA too!
Sure Shot brake cleaner sprayer too, but the canned brake cleaner market may crash if you get one of those.