Word spreads all across the land, in alleyways, backyards and garages. PT Cruisers raise their hoods because they've heard rumours of a far away place where they can go and get help. The great pilgrimage begins....first a whisper....growing and growing in volume until a ROAR begins...."Rainman Ray's Repairs is our great saviour. MUST get there!" Some die on the trail but still they persist with their journey. Some get captured and eaten by predators, but they continue to push forward knowing their ONLY POSSIBLE chance for survival is...the GREAT Rainman Ray!!!
Pop the key in and switch to the on position, immediately click the drivers door unlock switch, see if the anti-theft light goes out. PCM might be mismatched or hasnt been programmed, or it may have switched to anti-theft mode if someones been switching PCMs to test. Who knows if the key, PCM, lock barrel even belong together. PCM might be good but refusing to authorise crank.
Yes, That is the case with that range of anti-theft systems in Chryslers. If you try to start one of these with a hardware store-cut key "slug" the engine will run for about 2 seconds then cut out. I think you get three attempts at this before the PCM goes into code and a dealership has to reset the PCM to allow a restart. I don't know whether you can still crank the engine when this happens or if it is a complete ignition disable. And I'm not inclined to experiment with my '01 PT Cruiser LTD 5-speed. 😑
You might want to look into the anti theft system. Looks like your key has a grey colored head which signifies anti theft vehicle. Also there is a red dot light between the two left hand gauges, that should be the anti theft indicator light. You also might want to go back and revisit the door lock issue since the door locks and the anti theft system share some of the same fuses. As a side note it is not recommended to swap modules between Chrysler vehicle of that era and earlier. Connecting a module from an anti theft vehicle to a non theft vehicle can awaken programs in the non theft vehicle and it may never run again. Rare but I have seen it happen.
On my 2001 PT Cruiser when the key was not recognized it would start for a couple seconds and shut down. I had to have 3 pcm programmed to finally get a good one.
Ray, the question you weren't asking is, "why is the ground coming from the PCM?" There's a reason for it. So before loading the parts canon, you should be looking into the inputs to the PCM that are supposed to trigger that ground output. A very simple example would be if the gear selector was not in PARK, the starter should not fire.
Can I ask you a question? Where I'm from we have virtually no cars with auto, hence my ignorance. I assume there's has to be some kind of sensor that detects when the car is in Park to avoid lurching accidents when starting the car, so if this sensor was to be faulty it could cause it to not crank?
@@aigoru8718 Yes. For stick shift cars, there is typically a clutch pedal sensor/switch so the car cannot be started in gear. This is also used to deactivate the cruise control if the driver pushes in the clutch, otherwise the engine would redline. For automatic transmissions, there is a sensor/switch that detects the gear shift is either in park or neutral.
@@powertool64 Thats interesting information for me as it shows how cars have changed since the early 1970's when the clutch pedal sensor did not exist on at least UK cars. This meant that when my 1968 Mini ran out of petrol 100 yards from a garage I was able to simply put it in gear and operate the ignition key and "drive" the car to the garage using the starter motor as a sort of "engine". Didn't seem to do much harm apart from a burning smell from the heater vents.
@@alanclarke2524 Yeah, I use to do that too. I know my Ford Fiesta could start with the clutch out, and I think my early 80s Mustang could, but my 87' Merkur XR4Ti (aka Ford Sierra for you UK guys) had the lockout. But it also had the cruise control too, that the other cars did not have.
@Rainman Ray, you had mentioned an extra key, not cranking, no power to the door locks and that the steering column had been removed at some point. Those were your observations. Is there any chance it could be the immobilizer in the gray key and the Transponder aren't speaking to one another. When you tried starting it the anti theft light was flashing, this could all be related if perhaps they put in a new lock cyclinder/replaced a key and would explain the extra key and the steering column being messed with and the door lock issues. By doing this, it would also explain why the car isnt starting because the key immobilizer and transponder are no longer functioning together. Wouldnt you need to have the software to unmarry the SKIM and the PCM. Then perhaps reprogram it for that car/VIN???? They probably tried unbolting the SKIM from the steering column, to try and bypass it rather then get it programmed. Perhaps give this a try and see if you get any results: 1. Hold the GRAY key up towards the cyclinder lock. 2. See if the anti theft light flashes and then goes off entirely. 3. Then put the GRAY KEY in your pocket and start the car with the non transponder key. See if this works. I truly believe the owner may have tried to bypass the immobilizer and unplug the SKIM itself. The problem is unless they unplugged the SKIM and got a PCM new or from a donor car that did NOT have a SKIM. Once a PCM sees a skim module, it will always look for an "ok to start" message from the skim itself. I would suggest, try to program the key or replace the key and have it programmed if their existing one will NOT program. Keep in mind im NOT a mechanic, and Im only learning about vehicles thru channels like yours and those similar to yours. Im hoping this may help resolve the issue and perhaps we will see a part 2 to this video. If im wrong or anyone wants to explain anything please feel free and know Im just learning here. Love the channel and the content. Its people like yourself that inspire others and make them want to learn. Thank you for that.
I see a gray key head, that usually means it has anti-theft, so swapping a PCM from another PT Cruiser would not have worked. And possibly part of the problem......
I have the same model and year PT Cruiser. What I have learned is the SKIM must first recognize the key and then sends a ground command to the PCM, and then the PCM must send the ground to the relay. If the PCM was changed and not matched to the SKIM/key, the PCM may not be the problem, only the SKIM/key are not matched to each other and then the PCM doesn't recognize the signal. Been there and done that.
Watching you diagnose an electrical system is like being in a really cool auto shop class from high school. I could sit through it all day long. Thank you for the knowledge!
So true. Electrical issues are my kryptonite. But since watching Ray over the past year tackling electrical issues have gave me a better sense on how to find the problem. It helped me a couple of times now.
LMAO. No, don't accept a PT Cruiser (named in honor of PT Barnum - because a sucker really is born every minute) in trade for any auto part that costs more than a spark plug.
I think FrugalPrepper hit the nail on the head when he said this earlier. Reposting in case Ray didn't see it. FrugalPrepper's Garage & Garden 3 hours ago (edited) PATS problem. The PCM only provides ground to that circuit when it reads the chip in the key. The computer is matched to the reader in the column. You can only reprogram it if you get the pin number from a dealership. You can take the pats module, key, and computer out of another car from a junk yard and change them all together and it will work. Chrysler will not give me the PINS for anything because I am not a Licensed Locksmith or some other Auto Security Certification. Make sure you get the same year and options, and don't get one from a convertible. Someone has been futzing around with the PCM and the Ignition in that car. My guess is they tried a new PCM and then created a new issue thats different than the original one. Just make sure they don't read the VIN out of the computer and make sure it matches to do emissions or registration in your state, like the do in NY.
I think we should all do Ray a HUGE favor and crowdfund a giant noticeboard ad stating : " Got a PT Cruiser? Obviously you have mechanical problems, also mental problems for buying one in the first place too. Bring your PT Cruiser in as Ray absolutely loves working on these astonishing machines so much he'll actually pay you to fix every problem, especially the next to impossible ones while Wife unit counsels you in his air conditioned office over a fresh coffee of whatever your preferred choice of beverage then after Ray has finished fixing it and is curled up in the corner mumbling about "they did it just to destroy me!" you can just drive out knowing you'll never get a bill because he'd prefer to pretend it never was there in the first place lol. Honestly, some of the design aspects of these things and silly things like that air con gas line with the fitting down in the depths of no mans land and basically impossible to get at when it could JUST as easily have been placed in any number of easily accessible spots just screams contempt for buyers first and in the finish with much higher repair costs and frustration for anyone working on them but, the poor owners are the ones paying plenty extra in the long run for their (to me) despicable technique to make sure you feel you have to buy a new car sooner than you otherwise should have to. Anyway, we know how much Ray loves working on these . . . things sooo, let's get em pouring in the door lol. I spent a lot of time working as a welder and for home use and small jobs FOR MYSELF I bought a very small, cheap MIG welder. It was pretty crap but, I had a bunch of rust needed patching up on my old car and didn't want to just bog it up, or do like my father in law and pop rivet sheet metal over it then try and make it look sort of ok, I wanted it to look perfect and last so I got it with that specific job in mind. Unfortunately that led to a friend seeing how it turned out and despite me being a crap spray painter word spread and in no time I had people coming at me all over, all wanting bloody rust patched up. I do enjoy welding, that to me isn't welding though, it's just a HUGE, slow, tedious and frustrating process and most of them had to be shown just how much rust and how little metal there actually was around there little rust hole till I started poking holes all over it showing them that so much of what was left was only a layer of paint! I hated patching rusty car bodies BEFORE I got roped in and within a month I think I could have opened a shop JUST doing that, and that was in a small town too! I wound up when one arrogant a hole I already knew wanted me to do a heap of work for him on a collection of old cars he had and started trying to bargain me down to some ridiculously low rate I went the other way and changed my hourly rate for him to triple. That got him spluttering and "what the, why etc" and I wouldn't budge so didn't get the job I never wanted anyway, plus I had the fun of putting a big frog in a little puddle in HIS place too, then told EVERYONE to spread the word, NO MORE PATCHING RUSTY BLOODY THIN SHEET METAL CARS! That eventually stopped them asking. I find it incredibly boring and tedious. Give me a nice big MIG and some heavy equipment and about 400 Amps and I'm happy, short bursts before the whole area has a chance to vanish as soon as a tiny arc hits it are not my idea of job satisfaction.
@@devinangola3458 Oh geez, the double whammy. My father had dyslexia yet worked in an office all his working life, how is completely beyond me. I was lucky and got the ADHD so have seen one plenty from the outside and lived the other one. I can't even imagine dealing with both your entire life. I sincerely hope you can handle all that and still live a happy and satisfying life 👍.
@@lorditsprobingtime6668 dude, modern technology has made my life easier, and having to use other parts of your brain makes you rewire your brain differently. I was only making a joke on how long your comment was, but yes I have dyslexia, like your dad we have work arounds. I still agree!😉
@@devinangola3458 Heck, there you go. A good example right there, I didn't even realize I'd written so much till I had a look just now after your comment saying you were just joking about the length of that comment I started with. I was genuinely surprised how long it actually was. As for the workarounds, yeah, I'm sure you'd find ways but it definitely adds a layer of difficulty. I was blown away AND impressed when I found out about my dad's dyslexia but, also impressed that he'd have chosen a career that must have been really challenging to him. Maybe that was his way of fighting back against the problem, I don't know but, it still impresses me.
@@lorditsprobingtime6668 I’m glad you took the joke ok, yes long but right. Most of have done it, I do it all the time. On a message board you can rearrange and grammatically trim down a point. And other times you let it flow, that is understandable. And yours was!😉 Don’t marvel at how dyslexic’s cope, most are are the top 10 in intellect. We have to absorb through visual and I can read just fine, wires get crossed when putting words on paper or data entry. Everyone is different, so you lean into your strengths, having a photographic memory is mine. Your Dad had his crutch like me that helped and was also something others didn’t have. Cheers my friend!😉
Need to trade that fancy fluke for a test light. Meter will give a good voltage reading if there is any connection to the circuit, takes no current ( 20M input input impedance) to indicate volts. Probably not the issue here but it’s gonna lead you down the rabbit hole sooner or later. Watch Eric O or Ivan circuit checks.
Just had a similar issue with a similar year Jeep - no crank, no start, no fuel or volt gauge movement in the cluster, but it would crank fine if I sent power down to the starter through the circuit the relay energizes. Ended up being the PCM. Also, you can't just swap PCMs on Chrysler vehicles that have a SKIM (fat grey key is an indicator), and if you have a compatible PCM from a vehicle that doesn't have a SKIM and install it into a vehicle that has it, it'll lock to that vehicles SKIM and will no longer work on the original vehicle, unless you reset SKIM on it.
Once upon a time, in a shop I once worked, we had a two day diagnosis rule. If you can't find the problem in two days, we ship the car and no time paid. ( not my rule, management decided that ) you learned quick how to do your job or you hit the street. Sometimes our profession is unforgiving.
I had this happen. It was a GPS tracker/lockout device installed by a "buy here/pay here" dealer. When this unit failed it defaults to the lockout. It was installed on the ignition switch harness under the knee bolster. EXACT. SAME. SYMPTOMS without changing all those parts. Good luck Ray.
The "ground" supplied by the PCM is a switched ground control line for the starter relay. I don't have the documentation for this car, but the PCM is looking for a certain set of conditions to allow the starter relay to operate. So the PCM may or may not be bad, but you won't know until you figure out and test the conditions the PCM needs to allow cranking.
Hey, Ray, when you apply power or ground to a circuit by using a test lead straight to the battery, you should run that through a head lamp bulb. It adds a lot of functions to your test lead, most notably, short circuit protection and current-carrying capability testing. Was this a case of no-communication on the OBD-port? Your scan-tool should be able to provide an answer on why that PCM refuses to allow crank. And if you don't hear the fuel pump priming, you should check why it doesn't do that. Supply power to it through its relay contacts and check if the fuel pump relay's input is getting power.
This should be like an audience participation game show. Part 1 shows the problem. We all get to give our 2 cents worth (crowd sourced solution). And in part 2 we find out the correct solution so that those who got it right can pat themselves on the back.
Just finished diag/repair on Chevy 3500 w/electrical issues. Culprit was brake light socket melt and short internal. New flasher, relay, socket, and clean up wiring. They used used wire nuts to wire dump bed and rear lights. All soldered /proper connectors now. Took 2 days to chase that short down.
Had a similar ordeal on my 73 Monte Carlo. The cig lighter wasn't OEM and wouldn't stay in and pop out when heated. My GF held it in to the point the element came out in one long string. A battery and alternator later I traced the electrical drain to the socket, got and ground shorted with a piece of the element.
When Ray gets into his rambling explanation of the electrical diagnostics reminds me of Capt/Col. Carter from Stargate Sg1 techno babel on wormhole physics.
If you want to make this whole multi-meter thing easier for yourself, i would recommend investing in a Fluke 233. The display is detachable AND has a magnetic back :) Downside is that it's a bit expensive $3-400
A few commenters have mentioned the immobilizer system. Given the symptoms, I would agree. *BUT*, my first thought was something in the Neutral Safety Switch. The NSS sends a signal to the PCM, allowing PCM to ground that relay as long as the trans is in Park or Neutral. I would imagine that you can see that PID on a scan tool. My suggestion is to get the scan tool on that car and see what is going on.
Ray, those relais always have a pinout printed on them! This will help you a LOT when you are trying to sort out which pin will connect to which pin when the relais is energized! The Diagram will always show the connections in the non-energized state.
All you so called mechanics..... take notice of the " one handed mechanic " doing his AWESOME 👍 work diagnostic procedure and then fixing it. You are a hero in disguise! Seriously though, people don't mind paying, but hate paying for crappy work. It's hard to find good, honest and reliable technician's who will go the extra mile to fix the problem. To many just want to take the money and then give you a ton of excuses as to why they can't fix it. ADA boy Rainman, keep up the great work. You will always have a business.
I just noticed at about 16 minutes when you gave it a pretty good cranking that the fuel gauge didn't even seem to be thinking about registering anything. Are you sure it's actually got fuel in the tank?
Ray when I watch videos like this it makes me realize why I'm not a mechanic. I'm still dizzy after watching you going down the rabbit hole trying to figure out the electric problem. Can't hardly wait to see what the problem was and the fix.
The best thing you can do with a PT Cruiser is drag it out front of your shop paint your shop number on the door , roll down the window, and let them deliver mail into it.
Man, seeing this Cruiser brings backs some memories. Back in early 2003, I was traveling back home to Birmingham, AL from South Mississippi, and my ‘94 Jeep Grand Cherokee’s transmission decided to take a dump on the interstate. It just so happened that I was in Meridian, MS so I had it towed to the Jeep/Chrysler dealership there. I didn’t want to put any more money into that Jeep, so I looked around on the lot and found a new ‘03 PT Cruiser GT. Test drove it and bought it. I was so proud that it was the first new vehicle I was able to buy, since either having hand me downs or used cars. That was a fun little car! It had some nice pep in that 2.4L. Especially after I put a cold air intake on it. Because we all know those add like 15 HP.. 😆
An un-bent paper clip can be a handy tool for such diagnosing. With "crank, no start" I like to use aerosol starting fluid to see if I can get the engine to run a few seconds, to isolate whether fuel issue or spark issue.
Had a similar issue on a GM product and it turned out we were using a non programmed key. Once we had the right key it worked immediately. Not sure if this car has a programmed key or not, but it would not surprise me a cheap car has a dealer made only key.
I've witnessed you repair two PT Cruisers, those two owners have told all their fellow PT Cruiser Club friends that your a magician with PT Cruisers. Welcome to your new life. Raymond the PT dude!
PATS problem. The PCM only provides ground to that circuit when it reads the chip in the key. The computer is matched to the reader in the column. You can only reprogram it if you get the pin number from a dealership. You can take the pats module, key, and computer out of another car from a junk yard and change them all together and it will work. Chrysler will not give me the PINS for anything because I am not a Licensed Locksmith or some other Auto Security Certification. Make sure you get the same year and options, and don't get one from a convertible. Someone has been futzing around with the PCM and the Ignition in that car. My guess is they tried a new PCM and then created a new issue thats different than the original one. Just make sure they don't read the VIN out of the computer and make sure it matches to do emissions or registration in your state, like the do in NY.
Wrecking yard PCM might have to be programmed to the vehicle. It definitely doesn't look new. Also check the transmission shift switch isn't preventing starting as they can become faulty.
To be fair Eric O and Ivan at PHAD tend to do mainly diagnostics. Wes does about half and half where as Ray does mainly nuts and bolts. Something for everyone. Nuts and bolts can really help those who are learning on here.
Ray since you have figured out that the PCM Unit is the problem, have you try checking the unit out itself to see if it is really PROGRAMMED? Even the Warning Orange Tag said: A tool must be used to Reprogrammed VIN and Vehicle Mileage.
16:08 Make sure you have enough gas next time before cranking. Sometimes with very low gas most engine will hesitate to start. No Crank, is now a problem with Fuel.
As an American who lives in Eastern Europe and drives a PT Cruiser with a turbo charged Mercedes diesel I DEMAND more PT content!! Lol...... great job Ray your the highlight of my day!!
Good show Ray. Is there a place to get a PCM for a 2011 f150? The reason why I asked is that the ford dealership is pricing one for $790.00. They must believe that we have money growing on trees around here. any advice is appreciated.
What a nightmare - a dead auto that somebody else has already done who-knows-what to. And it's a PT Cruiser to boot. I'd just walk away. Luckily there are people like you in the world, Ray.
Got a "fun one" for your info: 2013 F-150 Intermittantly drops to limp mode. Stop, power down, wait a couple minutes and it runs fine for some random time... 10 min to 4 months. repeat. No codes can be caught if it is not actually in limp mode. Finally got it to dealer while in limp mode. There's a recall "If this code, replace half the wiring harness." But only if you get it to the dealer with the code active...
Almost for sure there's a bad electronic code in the key vs the anti-theft. Probably someone recut a key from another car or replaced a computer module without correct reprogramming. Auctioned repoed car where they didn't get the OEM key?
Nah., that’s the fun part…. fighting behind dumba$$ engineers that like to hide batteries in the trunk., under the rear seat ., and behind tires is the nightmare.
Hey Ray, I just wanted to say that I'm glad you're doing this diagnostic and not me. First off, I'm not a tech and secondly, every time i see one of those electrical diagrams, my eyes glaze over. Keep up the good work! Cheers!
good process. only question for me was IF the pcm was replaced was it programmed or is the security not allowing the start and fuel pump since the column is open were they trying to eliminate/override the security or trying to test the switch... hard to know...
Many have seen where an undetected -corroded ground strap has cost thousands in misdiagnosis ; unleashing a parts cannon by multiple techs; up unto replacing the wiring harness. I think it was AutotechMike had one where a disconnected drivers seat connection literally disabled most of the PCM.
Has that ECM been swapped but not coded to the vehicle? I know on other vehicles I've worked on that that can be an issue. What comes back from an ODB scan? Can you see the module?
clearly PCM/ECU controls that ground, immobilizer system might be on and most times those wont allow to crank, now you just bypass ground to starter relay and key gives +12v but still immobilizer can also disable fuel pump and spark.
Park/Neutral safety switch. Brake/shifter interlock switch. Immobilizer module (antitheft) Before you do all that other fancy testing & everything you always check for spark you always check for a fuel & you spray a little carb cleaner into the already open throttle-body to see (while you jump start it with the test lead), if it starts & runs.
Electrical easter egg hunts. What a joy. I'm quite liking Raymond's new posts hitting TH-cam right when I get home from night shift on the Left Coast. 👍
I really blew it a few years ago when my PT suddenly died at about 40mph. I was so fixated on its high mileage and thinking it will need a new timing belt, that I assumed it was the problem and was too afraid to repeatedly try to start it, in case it had broken. I tire the car half way down and realized the belt was fine. It sat another two years until I got the energy to put it back together. Once I did that, it started and died. That was when I realized it was out of gas. Duh! My lesson was I gotta be careful to not jump to conclusions too quickly
Lesson learned ; Always start with the simplest possible cause of the problem. I've ignored that rule myself, causing myself hours of work leading up to a Duh !! moment.
You’re going down the wrong path. The big red security light is on in the cluster. Plug your scanner in get codes. Bet it’s the key that’s bad or the immobilizer ring around the ignition lock cylinder
The gas light being on doesn’t have an effect on no cranking. He had to provide a ground to the relay himself so the pcm isn’t happy with the theft. Watch part 2 when it shows up
Excellent electronics method of finding out what works and what doesn't. My guess it is in the steering column. Know as the SKIM module or WCM It is the sensor / receiver from the key to the PCM and could be the source of the problem. The key is married to the SKIM module and the SKIM module is married to the PCM. The SKIM module has a loop of plastic which contains an loop antenna. The wires to the PC board inside can oxidize and since they not soldered to the board that will stop you from turning on zee engine. The contacts can be cleaning with brake clener and easily put back together. Then test with the key again making sure all connections are good and tight. Some modules have a different design but for this year you should inspect this problem first.
I am pretty sure that a PT Cruiser with that many miles on it is not worth what it cost to have you spend very many hours working on it! Love your videos, I learn many things by watching them and you do a great job explaining what you are doing. Thank you for another great video!
PT Cruisers were pretty much lemons and this one is 20 years old. But the owner of this one has already put in so much time, effort, and money that it has to have pretty high sentimental value to him or maybe his wife.
That's usually where I get hung up. They frequently don't make it clear what conditions the PCM needs to enable start. As some said, there are various anti-theft and transmission conditions that must be met but it can be very difficult to find out what they all are and what the proper states coming into the PCM are (grounded? +12v? Or?). Perhaps the scan tool can report on this?
If the ECU does not recognize the key. It will not turn on the injector circuit. It did crank before, but after a few tries with a bad key the ecu locks the starter function out. I had one back in the day. I lost the keys. Went to the dealer and had a new one ordered. Took it home and tried it. Crank and no start. Then after trying to troubleshoot the starter stopped operating. I use the IM508 or 608 Autel to test and program keys now. Very good unit for troubleshooting key issues.
Love your channel. I MISS your intro... I wish you would put it back in the videos. It makes me laugh every time I hear the wrench sound and you say gravity! Also, I really like your positive attitude. Great job.
Dude! I'm normal blocked from commits for my lefty views but want to say you site is one of the best-I'm a back yard garage and a American that believe in doing yourself- So thanks!
Word spreads all across the land, in alleyways, backyards and garages. PT Cruisers raise their hoods because they've heard rumours of a far away place where they can go and get help. The great pilgrimage begins....first a whisper....growing and growing in volume until a ROAR begins...."Rainman Ray's Repairs is our great saviour. MUST get there!" Some die on the trail but still they persist with their journey. Some get captured and eaten by predators, but they continue to push forward knowing their ONLY POSSIBLE chance for survival is...the GREAT Rainman Ray!!!
That made me laugh fella 👍
A legendary storyteller in our midst. Lol :) Hopefully you have kids so you can use that wild imagination during storytime. Love it.
Or no one else wants them and they must stay in the system.
Epic
You win. That is all.
Pop the key in and switch to the on position, immediately click the drivers door unlock switch, see if the anti-theft light goes out. PCM might be mismatched or hasnt been programmed, or it may have switched to anti-theft mode if someones been switching PCMs to test. Who knows if the key, PCM, lock barrel even belong together. PCM might be good but refusing to authorise crank.
Yes, That is the case with that range of anti-theft systems in Chryslers. If you try to start one of these with a hardware store-cut key "slug" the engine will run for about 2 seconds then cut out. I think you get three attempts at this before the PCM goes into code and a dealership has to reset the PCM to allow a restart. I don't know whether you can still crank the engine when this happens or if it is a complete ignition disable. And I'm not inclined to experiment with my '01 PT Cruiser LTD 5-speed. 😑
You might want to look into the anti theft system. Looks like your key has a grey colored head which signifies anti theft vehicle. Also there is a red dot light between the two left hand gauges, that should be the anti theft indicator light. You also might want to go back and revisit the door lock issue since the door locks and the anti theft system share some of the same fuses. As a side note it is not recommended to swap modules between Chrysler vehicle of that era and earlier. Connecting a module from an anti theft vehicle to a non theft vehicle can awaken programs in the non theft vehicle and it may never run again. Rare but I have seen it happen.
Agreed, I had the same on a sebring in about 2002
Yerp.
Yep, same BS with my Volvo. Change a battery and you need recoding.
On my 2001 PT Cruiser when the key was not recognized it would start for a couple seconds and shut down. I had to have 3 pcm programmed to finally get a good one.
Could also be the sensor ring around the ignition switch that picks up the signal from the key.
Ray, the question you weren't asking is, "why is the ground coming from the PCM?" There's a reason for it. So before loading the parts canon, you should be looking into the inputs to the PCM that are supposed to trigger that ground output. A very simple example would be if the gear selector was not in PARK, the starter should not fire.
Can I ask you a question? Where I'm from we have virtually no cars with auto, hence my ignorance. I assume there's has to be some kind of sensor that detects when the car is in Park to avoid lurching accidents when starting the car, so if this sensor was to be faulty it could cause it to not crank?
@@aigoru8718 Yes. For stick shift cars, there is typically a clutch pedal sensor/switch so the car cannot be started in gear. This is also used to deactivate the cruise control if the driver pushes in the clutch, otherwise the engine would redline.
For automatic transmissions, there is a sensor/switch that detects the gear shift is either in park or neutral.
@@powertool64 Thanks dude!
@@powertool64 Thats interesting information for me as it shows how cars have changed since the early 1970's when the clutch pedal sensor did not exist on at least UK cars. This meant that when my 1968 Mini ran out of petrol 100 yards from a garage I was able to simply put it in gear and operate the ignition key and "drive" the car to the garage using the starter motor as a sort of "engine". Didn't seem to do much harm apart from a burning smell from the heater vents.
@@alanclarke2524 Yeah, I use to do that too. I know my Ford Fiesta could start with the clutch out, and I think my early 80s Mustang could, but my 87' Merkur XR4Ti (aka Ford Sierra for you UK guys) had the lockout. But it also had the cruise control too, that the other cars did not have.
@Rainman Ray, you had mentioned an extra key, not cranking, no power to the door locks and that the steering column had been removed at some point. Those were your observations.
Is there any chance it could be the immobilizer in the gray key and the Transponder aren't speaking to one another.
When you tried starting it the anti theft light was flashing, this could all be related if perhaps they put in a new lock cyclinder/replaced a key and would explain the extra key and the steering column being messed with and the door lock issues.
By doing this, it would also explain why the car isnt starting because the key immobilizer and transponder are no longer functioning together.
Wouldnt you need to have the software to unmarry the SKIM and the PCM. Then perhaps reprogram it for that car/VIN????
They probably tried unbolting the SKIM from the steering column, to try and bypass it rather then get it programmed.
Perhaps give this a try and see if you get any results:
1. Hold the GRAY key up towards the cyclinder lock.
2. See if the anti theft light flashes and then goes off entirely.
3. Then put the GRAY KEY in your pocket and start the car with the non transponder key.
See if this works.
I truly believe the owner may have tried to bypass the immobilizer and unplug the SKIM itself.
The problem is unless they unplugged the SKIM and got a PCM new or from a donor car that did NOT have a SKIM. Once a PCM sees a skim module, it will always look for an "ok to start" message from the skim itself.
I would suggest, try to program the key or replace the key and have it programmed if their existing one will NOT program.
Keep in mind im NOT a mechanic, and Im only learning about vehicles thru channels like yours and those similar to yours.
Im hoping this may help resolve the issue and perhaps we will see a part 2 to this video.
If im wrong or anyone wants to explain anything please feel free and know Im just learning here.
Love the channel and the content. Its people like yourself that inspire others and make them want to learn. Thank you for that.
I see a gray key head, that usually means it has anti-theft, so swapping a PCM from another PT Cruiser would not have worked. And possibly part of the problem......
I have the same model and year PT Cruiser. What I have learned is the SKIM must first recognize the key and then sends a ground command to the PCM, and then the PCM must send the ground to the relay. If the PCM was changed and not matched to the SKIM/key, the PCM may not be the problem, only the SKIM/key are not matched to each other and then the PCM doesn't recognize the signal. Been there and done that.
Ray!! I think you need a service cart with BIG rubber wheels for the parking lot.
Hell, he needs a shop cart in the shop! I wince when he puts intake manifolds on the floor.
Drove by a used car lot , yesterday, and saw a PT Cruiser stretch limo for sale. My first thought was Rainman company car. 😝
Watching you diagnose an electrical system is like being in a really cool auto shop class from high school. I could sit through it all day long. Thank you for the knowledge!
So true. Electrical issues are my kryptonite. But since watching Ray over the past year tackling electrical issues have gave me a better sense on how to find the problem. It helped me a couple of times now.
@@tolow16 my kriptonite as well, he has helped me with the logic used to get through several electrical issues I’ve had.
He ain’t all that great diagnostics wise. Eric o if south main auto would be the one to learn diagnostics from or Scannerdanner.
Parts store clerk: How may I help you today?
Ray: Can I get a new PCM for a PT Cruiser?
Clerk: Umm ... [rubs chin] ... OK, sound like a fair swap.
LMAO. No, don't accept a PT Cruiser (named in honor of PT Barnum - because a sucker really is born every minute) in trade for any auto part that costs more than a spark plug.
01 PT owner here. No problems to date.
@@SeanONeill13 By any chance, is yours in storage?
@@larryjohns8823 🤣😂🤣
I think FrugalPrepper hit the nail on the head when he said this earlier. Reposting in case Ray didn't see it.
FrugalPrepper's Garage & Garden
3 hours ago (edited)
PATS problem. The PCM only provides ground to that circuit when it reads the chip in the key. The computer is matched to the reader in the column. You can only reprogram it if you get the pin number from a dealership. You can take the pats module, key, and computer out of another car from a junk yard and change them all together and it will work. Chrysler will not give me the PINS for anything because I am not a Licensed Locksmith or some other Auto Security Certification. Make sure you get the same year and options, and don't get one from a convertible. Someone has been futzing around with the PCM and the Ignition in that car. My guess is they tried a new PCM and then created a new issue thats different than the original one. Just make sure they don't read the VIN out of the computer and make sure it matches to do emissions or registration in your state, like the do in NY.
You may be right. The fact the steering column cover was removed indicates they may have swapped or unplugged the reader for the chip key.
That car should be a donor. It cranks like some sort of valve issue.
I think we should all do Ray a HUGE favor and crowdfund a giant noticeboard ad stating :
" Got a PT Cruiser? Obviously you have mechanical problems, also mental problems for buying one in the first place too. Bring your PT Cruiser in as Ray absolutely loves working on these astonishing machines so much he'll actually pay you to fix every problem, especially the next to impossible ones while Wife unit counsels you in his air conditioned office over a fresh coffee of whatever your preferred choice of beverage then after Ray has finished fixing it and is curled up in the corner mumbling about "they did it just to destroy me!" you can just drive out knowing you'll never get a bill because he'd prefer to pretend it never was there in the first place lol.
Honestly, some of the design aspects of these things and silly things like that air con gas line with the fitting down in the depths of no mans land and basically impossible to get at when it could JUST as easily have been placed in any number of easily accessible spots just screams contempt for buyers first and in the finish with much higher repair costs and frustration for anyone working on them but, the poor owners are the ones paying plenty extra in the long run for their (to me) despicable technique to make sure you feel you have to buy a new car sooner than you otherwise should have to.
Anyway, we know how much Ray loves working on these . . . things sooo, let's get em pouring in the door lol.
I spent a lot of time working as a welder and for home use and small jobs FOR MYSELF I bought a very small, cheap MIG welder. It was pretty crap but, I had a bunch of rust needed patching up on my old car and didn't want to just bog it up, or do like my father in law and pop rivet sheet metal over it then try and make it look sort of ok, I wanted it to look perfect and last so I got it with that specific job in mind.
Unfortunately that led to a friend seeing how it turned out and despite me being a crap spray painter word spread and in no time I had people coming at me all over, all wanting bloody rust patched up. I do enjoy welding, that to me isn't welding though, it's just a HUGE, slow, tedious and frustrating process and most of them had to be shown just how much rust and how little metal there actually was around there little rust hole till I started poking holes all over it showing them that so much of what was left was only a layer of paint!
I hated patching rusty car bodies BEFORE I got roped in and within a month I think I could have opened a shop JUST doing that, and that was in a small town too! I wound up when one arrogant a hole I already knew wanted me to do a heap of work for him on a collection of old cars he had and started trying to bargain me down to some ridiculously low rate I went the other way and changed my hourly rate for him to triple. That got him spluttering and "what the, why etc" and I wouldn't budge so didn't get the job I never wanted anyway, plus I had the fun of putting a big frog in a little puddle in HIS place too, then told EVERYONE to spread the word, NO MORE PATCHING RUSTY BLOODY THIN SHEET METAL CARS! That eventually stopped them asking. I find it incredibly boring and tedious. Give me a nice big MIG and some heavy equipment and about 400 Amps and I'm happy, short bursts before the whole area has a chance to vanish as soon as a tiny arc hits it are not my idea of job satisfaction.
I have ADHD and dyslexia and had to look up how to spell dyslexia. But I agree!😁
@@devinangola3458 Oh geez, the double whammy. My father had dyslexia yet worked in an office all his working life, how is completely beyond me. I was lucky and got the ADHD so have seen one plenty from the outside and lived the other one. I can't even imagine dealing with both your entire life. I sincerely hope you can handle all that and still live a happy and satisfying life 👍.
@@lorditsprobingtime6668 dude, modern technology has made my life easier, and having to use other parts of your brain makes you rewire your brain differently.
I was only making a joke on how long your comment was, but yes I have dyslexia, like your dad we have work arounds.
I still agree!😉
@@devinangola3458 Heck, there you go. A good example right there, I didn't even realize I'd written so much till I had a look just now after your comment saying you were just joking about the length of that comment I started with. I was genuinely surprised how long it actually was.
As for the workarounds, yeah, I'm sure you'd find ways but it definitely adds a layer of difficulty. I was blown away AND impressed when I found out about my dad's dyslexia but, also impressed that he'd have chosen a career that must have been really challenging to him. Maybe that was his way of fighting back against the problem, I don't know but, it still impresses me.
@@lorditsprobingtime6668 I’m glad you took the joke ok, yes long but right. Most of have done it, I do it all the time. On a message board you can rearrange and grammatically trim down a point. And other times you let it flow, that is understandable. And yours was!😉
Don’t marvel at how dyslexic’s cope, most are are the top 10 in intellect. We have to absorb through visual and I can read just fine, wires get crossed when putting words on paper or data entry. Everyone is different, so you lean into your strengths, having a photographic memory is mine.
Your Dad had his crutch like me that helped and was also something others didn’t have.
Cheers my friend!😉
Need to trade that fancy fluke for a test light. Meter will give a good voltage reading if there is any connection to the circuit, takes no current ( 20M input input impedance) to indicate volts. Probably not the issue here but it’s gonna lead you down the rabbit hole sooner or later. Watch Eric O or Ivan circuit checks.
He could easily make a block to plug the leads into that has a switchable load with resistors that would work. maybe 1000 and 10k ohms
Just had a similar issue with a similar year Jeep - no crank, no start, no fuel or volt gauge movement in the cluster, but it would crank fine if I sent power down to the starter through the circuit the relay energizes. Ended up being the PCM.
Also, you can't just swap PCMs on Chrysler vehicles that have a SKIM (fat grey key is an indicator), and if you have a compatible PCM from a vehicle that doesn't have a SKIM and install it into a vehicle that has it, it'll lock to that vehicles SKIM and will no longer work on the original vehicle, unless you reset SKIM on it.
Be careful with swapping out PCMs, ECMs, etc. If the vehicle has a dead short with it, you can easily cook the donor
Once upon a time, in a shop I once worked, we had a two day diagnosis rule. If you can't find the problem in two days, we ship the car and no time paid. ( not my rule, management decided that ) you learned quick how to do your job or you hit the street. Sometimes our profession is unforgiving.
As a former rollback tow truck driver. I cant wait to see your first tow with the new tow truck
Enjoyed the diagnostic process but you left us hanging😳. Looking forward to the finale.
I had this happen. It was a GPS tracker/lockout device installed by a "buy here/pay here" dealer. When this unit failed it defaults to the lockout. It was installed on the ignition switch harness under the knee bolster. EXACT. SAME. SYMPTOMS without changing all those parts. Good luck Ray.
it's out of gasoline the gas tank is on empty 16:19
@@punker4Real Out of gas never creates a non crank condition.
@@HookMann88 absolutely correct, it will let you exhaust every electron out of the battery.
The "ground" supplied by the PCM is a switched ground control line for the starter relay. I don't have the documentation for this car, but the PCM is looking for a certain set of conditions to allow the starter relay to operate. So the PCM may or may not be bad, but you won't know until you figure out and test the conditions the PCM needs to allow cranking.
Hey, Ray, when you apply power or ground to a circuit by using a test lead straight to the battery, you should run that through a head lamp bulb. It adds a lot of functions to your test lead, most notably, short circuit protection and current-carrying capability testing.
Was this a case of no-communication on the OBD-port? Your scan-tool should be able to provide an answer on why that PCM refuses to allow crank.
And if you don't hear the fuel pump priming, you should check why it doesn't do that. Supply power to it through its relay contacts and check if the fuel pump relay's input is getting power.
This should be like an audience participation game show. Part 1 shows the problem. We all get to give our 2 cents worth (crowd sourced solution). And in part 2 we find out the correct solution so that those who got it right can pat themselves on the back.
Just finished diag/repair on Chevy 3500 w/electrical issues. Culprit was brake light socket melt and short internal. New flasher, relay, socket, and clean up wiring. They used used wire nuts to wire dump bed and rear lights. All soldered /proper connectors now. Took 2 days to chase that short down.
Had a similar ordeal on my 73 Monte Carlo. The cig lighter wasn't OEM and wouldn't stay in and pop out when heated. My GF held it in to the point the element came out in one long string. A battery and alternator later I traced the electrical drain to the socket, got and ground shorted with a piece of the element.
When Ray gets into his rambling explanation of the electrical diagnostics reminds me of Capt/Col. Carter from Stargate Sg1 techno babel on wormhole physics.
Yes he does sound like Richard Dean Anderson.
Much props for bringing one of the best shows of all time to the party
@@supernat1978 INDEED.
@@hestheMaster But it does say ...RAY ...on his uniform.
I can't remember the last time I saw a PT Cruiser in the wild up here in upstate NY. Guess they all went south to FL like many other NYers. 😁
Please tell me I'm not the only one who listens and responds when Ray asks if anyone hears anything.
If you want to make this whole multi-meter thing easier for yourself, i would recommend investing in a Fluke 233. The display is detachable AND has a magnetic back :) Downside is that it's a bit expensive $3-400
A few commenters have mentioned the immobilizer system. Given the symptoms, I would agree. *BUT*, my first thought was something in the Neutral Safety Switch. The NSS sends a signal to the PCM, allowing PCM to ground that relay as long as the trans is in Park or Neutral. I would imagine that you can see that PID on a scan tool. My suggestion is to get the scan tool on that car and see what is going on.
Ray, those relais always have a pinout printed on them! This will help you a LOT when you are trying to sort out which pin will connect to which pin when the relais is energized! The Diagram will always show the connections in the non-energized state.
All you so called mechanics..... take notice of the " one handed mechanic " doing his AWESOME 👍 work diagnostic procedure and then fixing it. You are a hero in disguise! Seriously though, people don't mind paying, but hate paying for crappy work. It's hard to find good, honest and reliable technician's who will go the extra mile to fix the problem. To many just want to take the money and then give you a ton of excuses as to why they can't fix it. ADA boy Rainman, keep up the great work. You will always have a business.
I just noticed at about 16 minutes when you gave it a pretty good cranking that the fuel gauge didn't even seem to be thinking about registering anything. Are you sure it's actually got fuel in the tank?
Some say it won’t start, others say it’s begging to be put out of its misery!
Lol, " if I known then what I know now." 🤣
You sure it's in park.?
Neutral switch on trans
Ray when I watch videos like this it makes me realize why I'm not a mechanic. I'm still dizzy after watching you going down the rabbit hole trying to figure out the electric problem. Can't hardly wait to see what the problem was and the fix.
Its just a flow of power. Pretty basic. Power, ground , trigger.
The best thing you can do with a PT Cruiser is drag it out front of your shop paint your shop number on the door , roll down the window, and let them deliver mail into it.
Man, seeing this Cruiser brings backs some memories. Back in early 2003, I was traveling back home to Birmingham, AL from South Mississippi, and my ‘94 Jeep Grand Cherokee’s transmission decided to take a dump on the interstate. It just so happened that I was in Meridian, MS so I had it towed to the Jeep/Chrysler dealership there. I didn’t want to put any more money into that Jeep, so I looked around on the lot and found a new ‘03 PT Cruiser GT. Test drove it and bought it. I was so proud that it was the first new vehicle I was able to buy, since either having hand me downs or used cars. That was a fun little car! It had some nice pep in that 2.4L. Especially after I put a cold air intake on it. Because we all know those add like 15 HP.. 😆
An un-bent paper clip can be a handy tool for such diagnosing. With "crank, no start" I like to use aerosol starting fluid to see if I can get the engine to run a few seconds, to isolate whether fuel issue or spark issue.
I really enjoy electrical fault hunting. Reminds me of my days in the navy working on CIWS. A few...thousand...less wires in a PT Cruiser though.
Had a similar issue on a GM product and it turned out we were using a non programmed key. Once we had the right key it worked immediately. Not sure if this car has a programmed key or not, but it would not surprise me a cheap car has a dealer made only key.
Ray you keep kicking the content out daily, all respects and thanks to you! 😉😁
I've witnessed you repair two PT Cruisers, those two owners have told all their fellow PT Cruiser Club friends that your a magician with PT Cruisers. Welcome to your new life. Raymond the PT dude!
It’s a Bird no. It’s a Plane no. It’s Super Ray saving another PT Cruiser from the scrap heap. 🐐 of mechanics and technicians.
PATS problem. The PCM only provides ground to that circuit when it reads the chip in the key. The computer is matched to the reader in the column. You can only reprogram it if you get the pin number from a dealership. You can take the pats module, key, and computer out of another car from a junk yard and change them all together and it will work. Chrysler will not give me the PINS for anything because I am not a Licensed Locksmith or some other Auto Security Certification. Make sure you get the same year and options, and don't get one from a convertible. Someone has been futzing around with the PCM and the Ignition in that car. My guess is they tried a new PCM and then created a new issue thats different than the original one. Just make sure they don't read the VIN out of the computer and make sure it matches to do emissions or registration in your state, like the do in NY.
Wrecking yard PCM might have to be programmed to the vehicle. It definitely doesn't look new. Also check the transmission shift switch isn't preventing starting as they can become faulty.
I like the electrical diagnosis videos!!!!!! Having access to the diagrams is a gift from heaven.
A lot of the time forum members will post them. I have found several and there's a forum for almost all models and makes out there.
LOVE these diagnostic videos! Far more interesting than the remove and replace videos (which are still pretty good, LOL).
To be fair Eric O and Ivan at PHAD tend to do mainly diagnostics. Wes does about half and half where as Ray does mainly nuts and bolts. Something for everyone. Nuts and bolts can really help those who are learning on here.
ScannerDanner and motor age are pretty awesome too
Awesome diagnostic and problem determination. Your customer s are fortunate to have a good local mechanic!
Ray since you have figured out that the PCM Unit is the problem, have you try checking the unit out itself to see if it is really PROGRAMMED? Even the Warning Orange Tag said: A tool must be used to Reprogrammed VIN and Vehicle Mileage.
5:18 this is how I have to start some of my old lawnmowers 🤣
Most excellent Ray great video but the most important thing is to have your self a great day
Thanks!
Ray, I see several comments about anti-theft system. I was also wondering about the neutral-safety switch on shifter and brake pedal.
The best way to fix a PT cruiser is to find the nearest cliff, give it a good push and then go look for a new car.
WOOOHOOO... Another PT video 😁
"Ray's PT Specialist Workshop"
You did miss out on one diagnostic test. Hitting the PCM with a small hammer.
And if that doesn't work, get a bigger hammer. Also known as computer repair procedure 1and 2.
A small hammer! I'd use matches🤣
Ahh... percussive maintenance.
always check for broken pins on the pcm yes i have found them broken / bent
Watching this has gave me confidence to try resolving the intermittent starting issue my car has
16:08 Make sure you have enough gas next time before cranking. Sometimes with very low gas most engine will hesitate to start. No Crank, is now a problem with Fuel.
Ray is going to become a PT cruiser expert.
Ray is already a cruiser expert. He has 2147 texts and 4873 emails from people asking him to fix their dead cruisers.
He didn't choose the PT life. The PT life chose him...
@@michaeldurrett8388 lmao 🤣 😂 🤣 😂
A tip I learned about keeping your keyboard clean in the shop is to shrink-wrap the keyboard. once it becomes worn down, I swap it. Hope it helps.
Looks like possibly a skim issue. Security light is on.
As an American who lives in Eastern Europe and drives a PT Cruiser with a turbo charged Mercedes diesel I DEMAND more PT content!! Lol...... great job Ray your the highlight of my day!!
Good show Ray.
Is there a place to get a PCM for a 2011 f150? The reason why I asked is that the ford dealership is pricing one for $790.00. They must believe that we have money growing on trees around here. any advice is appreciated.
just in time we learning about electrical at university and now it makes much more sense how we use it day to day do diagnose problems
My third thought would be to check the neutral safety switch.
What a nightmare - a dead auto that somebody else has already done who-knows-what to. And it's a PT Cruiser to boot. I'd just walk away. Luckily there are people like you in the world, Ray.
The PT must be worth more and desirable today if your wholesaler keeps picking them up and fixing them for resale,
the junkyard got them next to nothing. ay can split sales profit.
Got a "fun one" for your info:
2013 F-150
Intermittantly drops to limp mode. Stop, power down, wait a couple minutes and it runs fine for some random time... 10 min to 4 months. repeat.
No codes can be caught if it is not actually in limp mode.
Finally got it to dealer while in limp mode. There's a recall "If this code, replace half the wiring harness." But only if you get it to the dealer with the code active...
Almost for sure there's a bad electronic code in the key vs the anti-theft. Probably someone recut a key from another car or replaced a computer module without correct reprogramming.
Auctioned repoed car where they didn't get the OEM key?
Good morning, Ray. PT stands for Personal Torture when working on a PT Cruiser.
Please Tow😁
PT = Pure Trash
In Australia the shiny ones are called Polished Turds.
PT=public transport. cause that's what your using when the car inevitably fails
Polished Turds …😂
Good video Ray. You and Lauren have a great weekend. Cheers.
Always interesting when you dive into a train wreck! Thanks Ray!
Who would place an alarm system on a PT crusier ? Take it to the scrap yard and let it die with some respect.
Side note. If you dont unlock the doors with the remote, youll never get it to run unless you know the code to disable the PAS
Must be a nightmare trying to sort out somebody else’s work.
Not to mention that the PT Cruiser is a POS to begin with. So its like trying to scoop up a POS that someone has stepped in.
Nah., that’s the fun part…. fighting behind dumba$$ engineers that like to hide batteries in the trunk., under the rear seat ., and behind tires is the nightmare.
Yes it is.
And then some!
Hey Ray, I just wanted to say that I'm glad you're doing this diagnostic and not me. First off, I'm not a tech and secondly, every time i see one of those electrical diagrams, my eyes glaze over. Keep up the good work!
Cheers!
Have you checked the transmission neutral safety switch?
Chrysler was able to class them as trucks and then used them to meet their CAFE requirements. Neat little trick if you ask me.
good process. only question for me was IF the pcm was replaced was it programmed or is the security not allowing the start and fuel pump since the column is open were they trying to eliminate/override the security or trying to test the switch... hard to know...
Many have seen where an undetected -corroded ground strap has cost thousands in misdiagnosis ; unleashing a parts cannon by multiple techs; up unto replacing the wiring harness. I think it was AutotechMike had one where a disconnected drivers seat connection literally disabled most of the PCM.
Morning coffee with Ray.
Seems like a good one to use for target practice, like several PT Cruisers.
Has that ECM been swapped but not coded to the vehicle? I know on other vehicles I've worked on that that can be an issue. What comes back from an ODB scan? Can you see the module?
clearly PCM/ECU controls that ground, immobilizer system might be on and most times those wont allow to crank, now you just bypass ground to starter relay and key gives +12v but still immobilizer can also disable fuel pump and spark.
What would you do without PT Cruisers? Good morning, Ray!
Park/Neutral safety switch.
Brake/shifter interlock switch.
Immobilizer module (antitheft)
Before you do all that other fancy testing & everything you always check for spark you always check for a fuel & you spray a little carb cleaner into the already open throttle-body to see (while you jump start it with the test lead), if it starts & runs.
Electrical easter egg hunts. What a joy. I'm quite liking Raymond's new posts hitting TH-cam right when I get home from night shift on the Left Coast. 👍
👍😂
Nothing like dinner with Ray.
Same 😆
I really blew it a few years ago when my PT suddenly died at about 40mph. I was so fixated on its high mileage and thinking it will need a new timing belt, that I assumed it was the problem and was too afraid to repeatedly try to start it, in case it had broken. I tire the car half way down and realized the belt was fine. It sat another two years until I got the energy to put it back together. Once I did that, it started and died. That was when I realized it was out of gas. Duh!
My lesson was I gotta be careful to not jump to conclusions too quickly
Lesson learned ; Always start with the simplest possible cause of the problem.
I've ignored that rule myself, causing myself hours of work leading up to a Duh !! moment.
You’re going down the wrong path. The big red security light is on in the cluster. Plug your scanner in get codes. Bet it’s the key that’s bad or the immobilizer ring around the ignition lock cylinder
that is the air bag light The CAR IS OUT OF GAS as noted by the gas light being on and is on empty...
The gas light being on doesn’t have an effect on no cranking. He had to provide a ground to the relay himself so the pcm isn’t happy with the theft. Watch part 2 when it shows up
Might check for bent pins on the pcm itself
G/Day Ray ive gone pirate tonight mate my wife and i have been enjoying your wife's channel wife unit thank you and you lovely wife mate
Well...way to go Ray! You're becoming the PT guru!.....for what that's worth! 🙂
😂
Ray, since you started your own shop, you sure are often on helium 🤣
Excellent electronics method of finding out what works and what doesn't. My guess it is in the steering column. Know as
the SKIM module or WCM It is the sensor / receiver from the key to the PCM and could be the source of the problem.
The key is married to the SKIM module and the SKIM module is married to the PCM. The SKIM module has a loop of plastic which contains an loop antenna. The wires to the PC board inside can oxidize and since they not soldered to the
board that will stop you from turning on zee engine. The contacts can be cleaning with brake clener and easily put back
together. Then test with the key again making sure all connections are good and tight. Some modules have a different
design but for this year you should inspect this problem first.
I am pretty sure that a PT Cruiser with that many miles on it is not worth what it cost to have you spend very many hours working on it!
Love your videos, I learn many things by watching them and you do a great job explaining what you are doing. Thank you for another great video!
PT Cruisers were pretty much lemons and this one is 20 years old. But the owner of this one has already put in so much time, effort, and money that it has to have pretty high sentimental value to him or maybe his wife.
also check all chassis ground connectors
hope you give the wife the 10 mm back you stole ray lol great video as always ray
That's usually where I get hung up. They frequently don't make it clear what conditions the PCM needs to enable start. As some said, there are various anti-theft and transmission conditions that must be met but it can be very difficult to find out what they all are and what the proper states coming into the PCM are (grounded? +12v? Or?). Perhaps the scan tool can report on this?
If the ECU does not recognize the key. It will not turn on the injector circuit. It did crank before, but after a few tries with a bad key the ecu locks the starter function out. I had one back in the day. I lost the keys. Went to the dealer and had a new one ordered. Took it home and tried it. Crank and no start. Then after trying to troubleshoot the starter stopped operating. I use the IM508 or 608 Autel to test and program keys now. Very good unit for troubleshooting key issues.
Love your channel. I MISS your intro... I wish you would put it back in the videos. It makes me laugh every time I hear the wrench sound and you say gravity! Also, I really like your positive attitude. Great job.
Welcome to Rainman Rays PT Cruiser repair shop. If your PT works part time bring it to Ray’s 😊
Dude! I'm normal blocked from commits for my lefty views but want to say you site is one of the best-I'm a back yard garage and a American that believe in doing yourself- So thanks!
I'm glad you have the expertise to do electrical diagnostics. My level as a hobbyist is with the very basics.