This is a great example of the difference between an assembly line repair shop and the independent take-the-time-that's-needed shop. Ray's ability to cut through the crap and logically go through the evidence to isolate the trouble spot is his superpower.
You do not have to apologize for not being able to show the failure of the sensor. You are one of the few good mechanics that we can take your word for it. You proved that over and over many times. 👍
Ray, this is where you stand out, in my opinion. Being quite old enough to remember the "pre-technician", MECHANIC, era where the diag was paramount to the repair, YOU Sir are a stand out in your field.👍👍
I love these kinds of your videos where it’s not easy and to see your thought process! I don’t know about others, but this is the content I crave from you Ray! So awesome
Ray: ten minutes of technical explanation about why it's the electronics and not the engine. Me: uuuuh...😵💫 The conclusion: You are very smart and obviously invested in a lot of training, and cars are just waaay to overcomplicated these days. Miss the old days when my brothers and I could monkey around with the timing and change out some spark plugs and get the thing running. So glad there's guys like you around who have the knowledge and ability to help us cope with these crazy new vehicles!
Yep, I think you found it. Nevertheless, whenever a O2 sensor seems sluggish, it's a good idea to check the sensor's heater voltage and ground circuit as well as the sensor's resistance to make sure the sensor isn't running cool. Great videos Ray! I love how you diagnose problems.
My first go to is (where possible), swap the left & right sensors. Easy to see if it is the sensor or something else then by whether the fault follows the sensor. Of course, this may not always be possible, (single exhaust engine, or different sensors / leads on each side.)
Hah! Talk about a timely video! Chasing a P0171 Lean Bank 1 on my wife's Subaru EJ253 with 180k miles and 12 years old today - did the smoke check - no leaks. Already had a new OEM upstream O2 sensor on hand. Doing the sensor replacement after I finish watching your video and have a beer.
Keep the videos coming, man. Been turning wrenches for almost 20 years now, and I still enjoy stuff like this! I've seen "new part" failures plenty of times, especially with aftermarket.
Hi Ray, Love your videos I think you mix up terms open-loop vs closed-loop, though I'm sure you understand the principles behind the terms. An engine would have to start out open-loop when cold, since the O2 sensors aren't ready to send accurate data or verifying its data, where the ECM uses its tables and possibly historical data to guess the fuel mixture. Then the ECM goes into closed-loop where it starts using the O2 as feedback to adjust the fuel mixture. It's sort of like dead-reconing navigation where you're just going by designated distances and turns, vs navigation by landmarks, GPS, etc that you can "read" to keep your bearings. The former would be open-loop since there's no feedback to keep you accurate while the latter is closed-loop since you're using external data to adjust your navigation.
I had a Crown Victoria that had me chasing P0171's and P0174's for months. At first, I followed what the codes said and I replaced the sensors one at a time as needed only to chase trouble codes somewhere else. The quality of the "new" sensors left a lot to be desired. It felt like I was in whack-a-mole hell and I was replacing "newish" sensors. The fix? I replaced ALL of the O2 sensors at the same time with Motocraft replacements. The crap quality aftermarket sensors ended up being the root cause. Whack-a-mole problem went away...I win.
I've been waiting for Ray to come up against one of these. A fastener that takes an offset wrench to get a bite, roll the wrench and get some more, flip the wrench for another, then back to the beginning for the next flat on the fastener. Rinse and repeat until frustrated. Cotter keys and safety wire not curled up on nearby fasteners gouging the back of your hand, ones estimation of the heritage of the engineer and previous mechanic goes to a dark place. I'll now slip in a please on a recalcitrant connector before going full sailor speak, (The phrase covers us past Marines, we honor some of their traditions) But I've learned a sense of Zen watching Ray. That and the GAF meter sometimes just pegs out low. Keep up the good work Ray You give us all hope.
Ray is the man. Expertise in auto repair. I love watching these videos. Excellent work as always! Great to know there are good people out there to take the time for a proper diagnosis. You are truly a Doctor of mechanics!!
I hope you're not fighting this kind of gremlin that drove me up a wall on a '95 Dodge van once. It had an intermittent open in the sensor lead in the first six inches of the harness out from the ECM plug. Shove the harness a little to one side or the other and it would either cut in or cut out. The van had gone through two engines without finding the fault; when the circuit went open, the ECM went to a dead rich mixture, and enough of that had wiped the rings - twice. I bought it as a lemon, cheap, and it took me another two months to run down the fault. I scavenged a segment of wire with the correct terminal from a scrap harness, did the wiring surgery to install it, and put another 180K on that engine before I retired the van at 404K. So yeah, your guess that it *could* be a wiring issue is potentially right - but first you have to catch it in the act, like you said.
Ray ... had a similar problem with my wife's Ford Edge, 2012. Independent mechanic found similar codes. Rather than replace the sensor, he told me that upstream was a solenoid, flap valve mixture control that occasionally gets stuck and fails. It results in a sensor 1, excessive lean state. He told me that most mechanics would replace the O2 sensor (had 75000 miles), but then showed me the real problem. No more sensor errors.
I echo what everyone else says. We really appreciate how you bring us along as you work through a diagnostic and arrive at the logical problem. Hey did you get the package I sent?
Difference in signals between Bank 1 and bank 2 indicates funky sensor bank 1 equals justification for parts Cannon. Good instincts Ray. Hope the new new one was Motorcraft, as the previous one obviously wasn't. Everyone don't forget to have a great day and as always, Greetings from Lake City 😎😎😎🌴🌴🌴🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
The downstream sensors on closed loop are doing exactly what they should be when catalyst are working proper and doing their job. You wanna see very little movement or fluctuating voltage at idle, this also means that your cats are in good shape.
Thanks for the great vid Ray. Pretty sure you meant closed loop when you said open loop and vice versa. Just for the viewers more than you, since I'm sure there's nothing I could teach you. As an aside, could you have switched the O2's around to see if the fault followed the sensor?
I think the sensor that was in there was an incorrect one design wise. Take note of the holes in the sensor tip then look at the new one. That makes a huge difference in how the air flow effects the readings on that sensor. I experienced this first hand when a muffler shop put a sensor with holes in it in my 98 F-150 quit a few years ago instead of putting in a slotted tip oxygen sensor, it effects the readings for sure.
Happened to my '93 Ford F150 4x4. Previous owner replaced the mid tank fuel pump before sale. Still wouldn't start. No fuel to the inline filter from both tanks. I replaced both pumps and filter. Started right up! Moral of the story: Just because it's new, doesn't mean it works.
When you talked to us Wednesday. Everything pointed to sensor. Like you said. Just cause it's new doesn't mean it's good. Glad it was fixed. On to the next customer.
Me thinks you have your loops backwards. Open loop is when the engine is cold, and it runs on preset parameters, when the engine warms up a bit, it goes into closed loop, where the sensors give feed back to the ECM to adjust fuel trims and such.
Ray If you get yourself a kitchen fire blanket. A small one. You can put that over the exhaust pipe, and not burn yourself. Done this many times myself and they work a treat.
Hi Ray, I need to tell my son who is a licensed mechanic that new is not always mean that it's good, thanks for the great videos, ps, we live in Ontario Canada and he has to deal with rust all the time,
Been there done that. 1998 Taurus 3.0L. Had bank 1 upstream o2 go bad. I replaced it with a Bosch. 3 weeks later popped the money light. I figured it was a wiring issue. 175,000 miles on the car. The readings were slugish to flatline at times. After looking over the harness saw no issues. Bought a Motorcraft sensor and all was fixed. Not sure abought Bosch quality anymore. Usually their stuff is over-complicatedly built anyway. Ah well.
Those sirens during the O2 explanation sounded like a full on structure response they were laying into it hard. I'm glad I was still able to hear you over it.
I love this video!! Although I wish I had learned your philosophy of "new is not always better" before I had replaced all of my sensors 2 years ago from Amazon because it was cheaper 😅 My "01 Yukon kept giving me 02 codes (that I had to ignore until recently) and I was finally able to afford proper replacements and wouldn't ya know, no more codes! 🤣
The main thing that tells me it's not a leak is that it's intermittent. Intake leaks don't come and go, they're constant. Intermittent problems are almost always electronic. When you need to work on warm exhaust components, you can cool them off with a water bottle set to mist. It cools the components slow enough that you won't warp or crack anything. I set a blower pointing at the area and spray with water mist.
I had a 2004 Lightning that was lean . Repair shop couldn't fix it when I got it back after paying for the diagnostic fee. I found a split boot that let air in just before the throttle body that fixed the engine code.
This one was definitely not a candidate for the switcheroo diag. Lucky to get it out in one piece. In the great salty north I risk a dab of anti seize.
Something similar happened to my Mercedes e320. After a week of trying to diagnose the car I finally figured out the cause. It was a simple exhaust leak at the manifold and a weld on the cat. I replaced manifold gasket and redid the weld on the cat and problem fixed. It's been over a year now and no codes or faults.
P0171/P0174 codes are always a bear to diagnose. Had one on my Ford Five Hundred. Fired the parts cannon at it. Didn't fix it. Eventually I found the problem - it was an bad 0-ring on the inlet PCV barb that feeds into the intake manifold. Had I smoked the engine at the start that would have identified the issue immediately! Proper diagnosis is KEY! Do not fire the parts cannon as I did. You're not doing your wallet any favors thinking you're saving time and effort by doing so.
I had a Nissan maxima with the 3.0l v6 the previous owner has had a p0430 from 7k miles, I got rid of it at 215k, but he had sensors, cats, programming, and ECU's thrown at it. After 9 months of ownership I captured 4 freeze frames and compared them and found the car would not come to temp in winter. Long story short, Bank 2 wasn't getting any fuel it ran on 3 cylinders for a majority of its life
I had a 1991 Pontiac Firebird 3.1L, I did lower intake per oil leak. Distributor o-ring was leaking too. The firing order is 1,2,3,4,5,6, that's the only in order firing order I've ever seen. And that was probably a little over 20 years ago. That's the engine that the intake gasket says DO NOT CUT LOL. Because to "CORRECTLY" replace intake gasket G.M. wants you to pull push rods because that's how gasket is designed. Pushrods run through intake gasket but I have seen ppl cut it and it's fine. If I remember correctly that 3.1L is set up where Valve Covers cover the Head and some of the intake. So where intake meets the head you put a lil silicone on vavle cover gasket.
I have a feeling you're confusing open and closed loop. in open loop the O2 sensor data is ignored by the ECU, in closed loop the O2 sensor data is used as feedback to tell the ECU the fuel mixture is good or not. Interestingly, I've seen both P0171 and P2195 as indications of faulty cam timing. Either a belt jumped a tooth, a chain stretched or an adjustable timing sprocket not functioning optimal.
Hello, comment section, What is your routine when watching Ray? I live in Japan and watch about 8 hours after the video posts. After I wake up, I take my morning meds and begin watching Ray's video. After 20 minutes, the meds begin to kick in, and then I make coffee and finish watching the video. What is your routine, and from where are you viewing?
Good job! I just did sensor and cat on a ‘06 Pathfinder. It took an hour just to get to the sensor… pulled wheel, fender liner, heat shield, dropped/rat shit strapped exhaust system for the cat. Mustang looks easy.
Ray, your friend at South Main Auto Repair just found out that mew doesn’t mean good. Then he got spoiled working on a Cadillac that had not any rust on it and said he wished the cars brought to him were like the ones you work on.
I would say that the CAT on bank one is a little blocked due to overfuelling, It probably needs a good boot to the floor to clear its throat. Thats probably why the new sensor wasn't emulating bank 2 sensor. You could see the flow difference between the two on the post flow sensors initially. NTK sensors are really the only option for aftermarket O2 sensors as most manufacturers get NTK to make them OEM especially FORD and Japanese car makers.
I worked in maintenance and reliability engineering in the oil industry. A new part can never be assumed to be good; it needs checking as best as possible. Many ball races for example are already damaged just by sitting for years on the shelf. The is a chart called the bathtub curve that shows failures are generally more common at the start and of course end of the component life than in the mid term life.
This is especially true for electronics. There used to be a hot "burn in" for electrical components and this eliminated most of the first part of the curve. Now manufacturers are too cost conscious but I used to see rows of PCs being burned in to look for failure.
Ray......I had one just last monday with the same issue,,,,,,customer bought me in a AutoZone o2 . After i installed customer part,,,,,,I Got a OEM & problem solved !!!!!!!
I tried to pass my car in California and I needed a new downstream sensor. It took almost 500 miles to complete the drive cycle. With gas prices as they were then, it was a bad experience. 2002 Pontiac Grand Am GT1. One note about the scanner screen, clean it. It's filthy. We could see it better if you did. Thanks bud
What a nightmare cheap sensors can be. I was working on a Chrysler 2.5 v6 that would not start and run. My data determined a bad crank sensor. I was appealed that an oem was $100, but on ebay they could be had for $10. So I ordered one and it was a little large for the really hard to get to hole. I tried sanding it, but hit the copper core. I ordered another different brand cheap one, put it in and it still did not work. I ordered a distributer with no luck. I ended up at a junk yard and found a car with same engine that had white letters on the windshield that said "runs and drives" . I took those 2 parts home, installed them and it ran perfect. Those 2 $10 sensors cost me about 20 hours of cussing labor. I also found that removing the intake and distributer was easier that trying to snake around to that crank sensor.
@@stevenbaker9327 slightly disagree, 20 years still hit and miss, not humble to learn, but he will retire from TH-cam incomes, much sooner than many auto tech instructors or mechanics. Lack of mechanic skills but full of marketing tricks.
@@forgetfulme1719 means the car runs properly my labor rate was 110 per hour back when all shops around me were in the 60$ range and we were always busy
This is just a suggestion, you might try using your air compressor and blowing air across the exhaust right there. you may be able to cool it down enough to get your hand up in there to release that sensor.
Beware of Mechanic sign by key rack. I’m glad the sign I sent was placed in such a prominent location. Been looking for it. And I say: HEY! yeah yeaaah, HEY yeah yea I said hey, what's going on?
You keep getting open and closed loop backwards. Engine goes into closed loop when it's warmed up. Got it right at 27 min in the test drive. Must just be a slip of the tongue....we know you know what you're doing. Love your videos Ray!
Good diagnosis! A small request, if I may: When you are running the scanner and scrolling through the PID's, and the white selector bar comes to rest, that inverted black on white is almost impossible to see on camera, glare or not. It's a bit frustrating when the selector bar is resting on a PID, you're busy explaining it's value and I can't see what the value is. If you could make a note to move the bar to the next one down or up, then explain what's going on, it would be appreciated by me, at least.
Sounds like need a bigger phone, better quality, or use a laptop if you have seeing issues. No reason for ray to change his filming style because you can't see.
@@DjCorndawg it's actually the "white balance" of his go pro that cause the issue. Perhaps other people on other devices can view it better but in general I think most people can't see.
When I was training to become a excavator mechanic I did see a few a mechanics had grind down the thickness on a pair of their tools just for those type of scenarios(20:55) where a sensor was needed to be tighened and something normaly block the actions needed. Asked them about it and they sad that even if the tool gets slightly less durability thats fine if it breaks they could just order a new one or weld it together again. :) hope you have a nice day :)
I totally dropped the ball on firing order. 1,2,3,4….5,6,7,8
Cylinder numbering order, not firing order.
Why wouldn’t you swap bank one sensor with bank two for testing?
@@tomvines4557 Wife units are always in charge of the banks.
My 1991 3.1L Firebird Firing order realy was 1,2,3,4,5,6, HAHA Great Content! 👍 🇺🇲
1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. :>)
This is a great example of the difference between an assembly line repair shop and the independent take-the-time-that's-needed shop. Ray's ability to cut through the crap and logically go through the evidence to isolate the trouble spot is his superpower.
Indeed...
Yep, especially with intermittent faults, which are always an absoulte bu88er do diagnose.
Super power, Super man Ray. I watch rainman ray's to up skill, better than any school.
@T Raybern Go on then: which hand's he going to hold it in?
You do not have to apologize for not being able to show the failure of the sensor. You are one of the few good mechanics that we can take your word for it. You proved that over and over many times. 👍
This is awesome, iv been a mechanic for nearly 20years and I’m still in awe of the learning I do with these videos. Thanks Ray
Ray, this is where you stand out, in my opinion. Being quite old enough to remember the "pre-technician", MECHANIC, era where the diag was paramount to the repair, YOU Sir are a stand out in your field.👍👍
I love these kinds of your videos where it’s not easy and to see your thought process! I don’t know about others, but this is the content I crave from you Ray! So awesome
I prefer oil change videos.
i changed my o2 sensors a couple times on my old 87 jeep Cherokee in the 34 years of owning and i always used a dab of anti size on the threads
Ray: ten minutes of technical explanation about why it's the electronics and not the engine. Me: uuuuh...😵💫 The conclusion: You are very smart and obviously invested in a lot of training, and cars are just waaay to overcomplicated these days. Miss the old days when my brothers and I could monkey around with the timing and change out some spark plugs and get the thing running. So glad there's guys like you around who have the knowledge and ability to help us cope with these crazy new vehicles!
Yep, I think you found it. Nevertheless, whenever a O2 sensor seems sluggish, it's a good idea to check the sensor's heater voltage and ground circuit as well as the sensor's resistance to make sure the sensor isn't running cool. Great videos Ray! I love how you diagnose problems.
My first go to is (where possible), swap the left & right sensors. Easy to see if it is the sensor or something else then by whether the fault follows the sensor. Of course, this may not always be possible, (single exhaust engine, or different sensors / leads on each side.)
Hah! Talk about a timely video! Chasing a P0171 Lean Bank 1 on my wife's Subaru EJ253 with 180k miles and 12 years old today - did the smoke check - no leaks. Already had a new OEM upstream O2 sensor on hand. Doing the sensor replacement after I finish watching your video and have a beer.
Keep the videos coming, man. Been turning wrenches for almost 20 years now, and I still enjoy stuff like this! I've seen "new part" failures plenty of times, especially with aftermarket.
Hi Ray,
Love your videos
I think you mix up terms open-loop vs closed-loop, though I'm sure you understand the principles behind the terms.
An engine would have to start out open-loop when cold, since the O2 sensors aren't ready to send accurate data or verifying its data, where the ECM uses its tables and possibly historical data to guess the fuel mixture.
Then the ECM goes into closed-loop where it starts using the O2 as feedback to adjust the fuel mixture.
It's sort of like dead-reconing navigation where you're just going by designated distances and turns, vs navigation by landmarks, GPS, etc that you can "read" to keep your bearings.
The former would be open-loop since there's no feedback to keep you accurate while the latter is closed-loop since you're using external data to adjust your navigation.
Ray is like having a personal physician as opposed to a HMO doc. One treats you successfully the other just keeps you coming back for the copay
That's why I do all medical treatments myself at home in the garage
I had a Crown Victoria that had me chasing P0171's and P0174's for months. At first, I followed what the codes said and I replaced the sensors one at a time as needed only to chase trouble codes somewhere else. The quality of the "new" sensors left a lot to be desired. It felt like I was in whack-a-mole hell and I was replacing "newish" sensors. The fix? I replaced ALL of the O2 sensors at the same time with Motocraft replacements. The crap quality aftermarket sensors ended up being the root cause. Whack-a-mole problem went away...I win.
I've been waiting for Ray to come up against one of these. A fastener that takes an offset wrench to get a bite, roll the wrench and get some more, flip the wrench for another, then back to the beginning for the next flat on the fastener. Rinse and repeat until frustrated.
Cotter keys and safety wire not curled up on nearby fasteners gouging the back of your hand, ones estimation of the heritage of the engineer and previous mechanic goes to a dark place.
I'll now slip in a please on a recalcitrant connector before going full sailor speak, (The phrase covers us past Marines, we honor some of their traditions) But I've learned a sense of Zen watching Ray. That and the GAF meter sometimes just pegs out low.
Keep up the good work Ray You give us all hope.
Flare nut wrenches would save you lots of stress and blisters .
Best tool I ever found to pull O2 sensors out .
Ray is the man. Expertise in auto repair. I love watching these videos. Excellent work as always! Great to know there are good people out there to take the time for a proper diagnosis. You are truly a Doctor of mechanics!!
I hope you're not fighting this kind of gremlin that drove me up a wall on a '95 Dodge van once. It had an intermittent open in the sensor lead in the first six inches of the harness out from the ECM plug. Shove the harness a little to one side or the other and it would either cut in or cut out. The van had gone through two engines without finding the fault; when the circuit went open, the ECM went to a dead rich mixture, and enough of that had wiped the rings - twice. I bought it as a lemon, cheap, and it took me another two months to run down the fault. I scavenged a segment of wire with the correct terminal from a scrap harness, did the wiring surgery to install it, and put another 180K on that engine before I retired the van at 404K. So yeah, your guess that it *could* be a wiring issue is potentially right - but first you have to catch it in the act, like you said.
Ray ... had a similar problem with my wife's Ford Edge, 2012. Independent mechanic found similar codes. Rather than replace the sensor, he told me that upstream was a solenoid, flap valve mixture control that occasionally gets stuck and fails. It results in a sensor 1, excessive lean state. He told me that most mechanics would replace the O2 sensor (had 75000 miles), but then showed me the real problem. No more sensor errors.
Great morning Ray and Happy Super Bowl Sunday.
I echo what everyone else says. We really appreciate how you bring us along as you work through a diagnostic and arrive at the logical problem. Hey did you get the package I sent?
Difference in signals between Bank 1 and bank 2 indicates funky sensor bank 1 equals justification for parts Cannon. Good instincts Ray. Hope the new new one was Motorcraft, as the previous one obviously wasn't. Everyone don't forget to have a great day and as always, Greetings from Lake City 😎😎😎🌴🌴🌴🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
The downstream sensors on closed loop are doing exactly what they should be when catalyst are working proper and doing their job. You wanna see very little movement or fluctuating voltage at idle, this also means that your cats are in good shape.
Putting in a new OEM sensor solves the problem. Aftermarket ones are problematic very often. Looks like you solved it.
Thanks for the great vid Ray. Pretty sure you meant closed loop when you said open loop and vice versa. Just for the viewers more than you, since I'm sure there's nothing I could teach you. As an aside, could you have switched the O2's around to see if the fault followed the sensor?
Well good morning Ray okay we're doing the mustang today love it
an excellent video regarding lenght, diagnosis and content
I think the sensor that was in there was an incorrect one design wise. Take note of the holes in the sensor tip then look at the new one. That makes a huge difference in how the air flow effects the readings on that sensor. I experienced this first hand when a muffler shop put a sensor with holes in it in my 98 F-150 quit a few years ago instead of putting in a slotted tip oxygen sensor, it effects the readings for sure.
Yes, I did like it. I actually learned something that would help me with my Chrysler.
Happened to my '93 Ford F150 4x4. Previous owner replaced the mid tank fuel pump before sale. Still wouldn't start. No fuel to the inline filter from both tanks. I replaced both pumps and filter. Started right up!
Moral of the story: Just because it's new, doesn't mean it works.
When you talked to us Wednesday. Everything pointed to sensor. Like you said. Just cause it's new doesn't mean it's good. Glad it was fixed. On to the next customer.
Me thinks you have your loops backwards. Open loop is when the engine is cold, and it runs on preset parameters, when the engine warms up a bit, it goes into closed loop, where the sensors give feed back to the ECM to adjust fuel trims and such.
Ray
If you get yourself a kitchen fire blanket. A small one. You can put that over the exhaust pipe, and not burn yourself. Done this many times myself and they work a treat.
send one free to his PO box, he will never buy one.
correct Ray i drove 200km to buy a new electric fry pan got it home and it didn't work because its new it doesn't mean it works cheers
Hi Ray, I need to tell my son who is a licensed mechanic that new is not always mean that it's good, thanks for the great videos, ps, we live in Ontario Canada and he has to deal with rust all the time,
Been there done that. 1998 Taurus 3.0L. Had bank 1 upstream o2 go bad. I replaced it with a Bosch. 3 weeks later popped the money light. I figured it was a wiring issue. 175,000 miles on the car. The readings were slugish to flatline at times. After looking over the harness saw no issues. Bought a Motorcraft sensor and all was fixed. Not sure abought Bosch quality anymore. Usually their stuff is over-complicatedly built anyway. Ah well.
How many people were wanting to reach into the screen and wrap some tape on that harness? 14:40 - 14:50
that drives me nuts.!!!!!!!!!!!
Morning everyone. Thanks for the content Ray
G' Morning! Have a pleasant Day :)
Your customers are so blessed to have you there!
I ran into the same situation on a new Bosch O2 sensor on my old Chevy truck. It was bad out of the box... It happens.
LOL! 🤣 You said "irregardless"!!!! AGAIN!!!!
Loving your new shop and family involvement.
I've been able to slip the box end over the connector and use it to remove and install o2 sensors. A 12 pt box end works well in cramped conditions.
Ray, loved the new subscribe stickers on the lift button box!
Those sirens during the O2 explanation sounded like a full on structure response they were laying into it hard. I'm glad I was still able to hear you over it.
I love this video!! Although I wish I had learned your philosophy of "new is not always better" before I had replaced all of my sensors 2 years ago from Amazon because it was cheaper 😅 My "01 Yukon kept giving me 02 codes (that I had to ignore until recently) and I was finally able to afford proper replacements and wouldn't ya know, no more codes! 🤣
The main thing that tells me it's not a leak is that it's intermittent. Intake leaks don't come and go, they're constant. Intermittent problems are almost always electronic. When you need to work on warm exhaust components, you can cool them off with a water bottle set to mist. It cools the components slow enough that you won't warp or crack anything. I set a blower pointing at the area and spray with water mist.
This is true to an extent, I have seen intake gaskets that only leak when the engine is hot
I had a 2004 Lightning that was lean . Repair shop couldn't fix it when I got it back after paying for the diagnostic fee. I found a split boot that let air in just before the throttle body that fixed the engine code.
This one was definitely not a candidate for the switcheroo diag. Lucky to get it out in one piece. In the great salty north I risk a dab of anti seize.
Something similar happened to my Mercedes e320. After a week of trying to diagnose the car I finally figured out the cause. It was a simple exhaust leak at the manifold and a weld on the cat. I replaced manifold gasket and redid the weld on the cat and problem fixed. It's been over a year now and no codes or faults.
Stoichiometric! Very well said! Congrats. Your chemistry teacher would be proud. Dr. K.
I had the same problem with GM LFX V6 P 0171 mostly and rarely 0174 , It was purge valve !
4.6 is a wonderful engine... Not a ton of power, but it's not a slouch. Very reliable.
Try a BG Major EFI Fuel service….I’d be happy to come by and do it with you. Show you the BG Rev-It.
P0171/P0174 codes are always a bear to diagnose. Had one on my Ford Five Hundred. Fired the parts cannon at it. Didn't fix it. Eventually I found the problem - it was an bad 0-ring on the inlet PCV barb that feeds into the intake manifold. Had I smoked the engine at the start that would have identified the issue immediately!
Proper diagnosis is KEY! Do not fire the parts cannon as I did. You're not doing your wallet any favors thinking you're saving time and effort by doing so.
Can tell chevy guy lol 1234 are passenger 5678 driver ford. Anywhere still watching 👀 I likes the channel!
I caught that too. The Europeans and Honda also number their cylinders like Ford. 1234 passenger 5678 driver.
Hooray! Another day with Ray !
Fantastic job, mechanical experience and expertise.
I had a Nissan maxima with the 3.0l v6 the previous owner has had a p0430 from 7k miles, I got rid of it at 215k, but he had sensors, cats, programming, and ECU's thrown at it. After 9 months of ownership I captured 4 freeze frames and compared them and found the car would not come to temp in winter. Long story short, Bank 2 wasn't getting any fuel it ran on 3 cylinders for a majority of its life
thankyou Ray,,have a good week,,👍👍
A word from my early carburetor days, stoichiometeric! A word a true technician knows the meaning of.🤗
New means never ever worked,was told this years ago in a class love your stuff
I saw this car in the background of a previous video. I like it's looks including the wheels and throwback paint color. No garbage on it.
That P1000 is a big clue, nice catch! Knowing that someone has been there before is always good info, even if the customer doesn't tell you.
Wet rags cool pipes down, air a bit slower. Rag good, not so harsh as a water dump.
Yes a 3v Mustang!
Yes, gloves are the key to not burning your hands. Good job. 👍🏻
All right class, the word for today is stoichiometrically. Good job. Nice vid.
I had a 1991 Pontiac Firebird 3.1L, I did lower intake per oil leak. Distributor o-ring was leaking too. The firing order is 1,2,3,4,5,6, that's the only in order firing order I've ever seen. And that was probably a little over 20 years ago. That's the engine that the intake gasket says DO NOT CUT LOL. Because to "CORRECTLY" replace intake gasket G.M. wants you to pull push rods because that's how gasket is designed. Pushrods run through intake gasket but I have seen ppl cut it and it's fine. If I remember correctly that 3.1L is set up where Valve Covers cover the Head and some of the intake. So where intake meets the head you put a lil silicone on vavle cover gasket.
I have a feeling you're confusing open and closed loop. in open loop the O2 sensor data is ignored by the ECU, in closed loop the O2 sensor data is used as feedback to tell the ECU the fuel mixture is good or not.
Interestingly, I've seen both P0171 and P2195 as indications of faulty cam timing. Either a belt jumped a tooth, a chain stretched or an adjustable timing sprocket not functioning optimal.
I used to point a fan at the hot area it will cool it down farely quick
Hello, comment section,
What is your routine when watching Ray?
I live in Japan and watch about 8 hours after the video posts.
After I wake up, I take my morning meds and begin watching Ray's video. After 20 minutes, the meds begin to kick in, and then I make coffee and finish watching the video.
What is your routine, and from where are you viewing?
Good job! I just did sensor and cat on a ‘06 Pathfinder. It took an hour just to get to the sensor… pulled wheel, fender liner, heat shield, dropped/rat shit strapped exhaust system for the cat. Mustang looks easy.
Ray, your friend at South Main Auto Repair just found out that mew doesn’t mean good. Then he got spoiled working on a Cadillac that had not any rust on it and said he wished the cars brought to him were like the ones you work on.
That nurse appreciates a well maintained automobile. Glad it was a relatively easy fix.
I would say that the CAT on bank one is a little blocked due to overfuelling, It probably needs a good boot to the floor to clear its throat. Thats probably why the new sensor wasn't emulating bank 2 sensor. You could see the flow difference between the two on the post flow sensors initially.
NTK sensors are really the only option for aftermarket O2 sensors as most manufacturers get NTK to make them OEM especially FORD and Japanese car makers.
You need some slim Wrenches Ray there only a few mm thick that would take care of the o2 sensor pretty easy @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I worked in maintenance and reliability engineering in the oil industry. A new part can never be assumed to be good; it needs checking as best as possible. Many ball races for example are already damaged just by sitting for years on the shelf. The is a chart called the bathtub curve that shows failures are generally more common at the start and of course end of the component life than in the mid term life.
This is especially true for electronics. There used to be a hot "burn in" for electrical components and this eliminated most of the first part of the curve. Now manufacturers are too cost conscious but I used to see rows of PCs being burned in to look for failure.
Ray......I had one just last monday with the same issue,,,,,,customer bought me in a AutoZone o2 . After i installed customer part,,,,,,I Got a OEM & problem solved !!!!!!!
the only thing i buy from autozone are those blue shop towels..... 🤣
I tried to pass my car in California and I needed a new downstream sensor. It took almost 500 miles to complete the drive cycle. With gas prices as they were then, it was a bad experience. 2002 Pontiac Grand Am GT1. One note about the scanner screen, clean it. It's filthy. We could see it better if you did. Thanks bud
It's 130am in the South Pacific, but
Great way to start the day.
Thanks Ray enjoyed the video, have a great day and take care of yourself and family and be Blessed ❤️❤️❤️👍.
I had a 97 f150 with the 4.6 I never had any issues with that motor. Loved that engine
Excellent work ray awesome video and as always you and your families be safe 🇺🇸🇺🇸
What a beautiful vehicle. I had one same color got run off the road and it got totaled
I might have tried swapping left O2 for right O2 first to see if problem moved to bank 2 following the sensor.
Too much hassle I imagine.
O2 sensors are cheap enough to just swap for a new one IMO.
What a nightmare cheap sensors can be. I was working on a Chrysler 2.5 v6 that would not start and run. My data determined a bad crank sensor. I was appealed that an oem was $100, but on ebay they could be had for $10. So I ordered one and it was a little large for the really hard to get to hole. I tried sanding it, but hit the copper core. I ordered another different brand cheap one, put it in and it still did not work. I ordered a distributer with no luck. I ended up at a junk yard and found a car with same engine that had white letters on the windshield that said "runs and drives" . I took those 2 parts home, installed them and it ran perfect. Those 2 $10 sensors cost me about 20 hours of cussing labor. I also found that removing the intake and distributer was easier that trying to snake around to that crank sensor.
Yeah I always say when it comes to sensors always get OEM parts.
You need to diagnose the universal constant of cars fixing themselves upon arrival at the repair facility.
Afraid to be worked on.
A wildfire lift and a mobile set of stairs would make life so much easier!
Nice diagnosis!
"Stoichiometric harmony." Yeah. Ray knows some things.
Impressive term, its the thing he thinks he knows it all that is scary.
Another 30 yrs. he'll have the street smarts! Been doing this since I was 18 yrs. old..... Still doing it at 72!...but a bit slower!
@@stevenbaker9327 slightly disagree, 20 years still hit and miss, not humble to learn, but he will retire from TH-cam incomes, much sooner than many auto tech instructors or mechanics. Lack of mechanic skills but full of marketing tricks.
In the 20 years I had my shop I never installed a aftermarket sensor, always OEM
means less profit from markup.
@@forgetfulme1719 means the car runs properly my labor rate was 110 per hour back when all shops around me were in the 60$ range and we were always busy
@@jamesedward2470 not where he is, $60 forever.
This is just a suggestion, you might try using your air compressor and blowing air across the exhaust right there. you may be able to cool it down enough to get your hand up in there to release that sensor.
Ray a shot of break clean would cool down those parts in no time! :)
Beware of Mechanic sign by key rack. I’m glad the sign I sent was placed in such a prominent location. Been looking for it.
And I say: HEY! yeah yeaaah, HEY yeah yea
I said hey, what's going on?
You keep getting open and closed loop backwards. Engine goes into closed loop when it's warmed up. Got it right at 27 min in the test drive. Must just be a slip of the tongue....we know you know what you're doing. Love your videos Ray!
Good diagnosis! A small request, if I may: When you are running the scanner and scrolling through the PID's, and the white selector bar comes to rest, that inverted black on white is almost impossible to see on camera, glare or not. It's a bit frustrating when the selector bar is resting on a PID, you're busy explaining it's value and I can't see what the value is. If you could make a note to move the bar to the next one down or up, then explain what's going on, it would be appreciated by me, at least.
I hope you’re watching the advertisements so Ray can be compensated for his work.
I hope you’re watching the advertisements so Ray can be compensated for his work.
Sounds like need a bigger phone, better quality, or use a laptop if you have seeing issues. No reason for ray to change his filming style because you can't see.
I have the same problem with viewing the scan tool. It sure would be nice to be able to see the PIDs in question.
@@DjCorndawg it's actually the "white balance" of his go pro that cause the issue. Perhaps other people on other devices can view it better but in general I think most people can't see.
I once had a brand new Borg-Warner starter-circuit solenoid failed right out of the box.
When I was training to become a excavator mechanic I did see a few a mechanics had grind down the thickness on a pair of their tools just for those type of scenarios(20:55) where a sensor was needed to be tighened and something normaly block the actions needed. Asked them about it and they sad that even if the tool gets slightly less durability thats fine if it breaks they could just order a new one or weld it together again. :) hope you have a nice day :)
@4:53 I haven't known a mechanic yet that wouldn't have followed that but with I'm going to charge them for it anyway. Sojourn on Ray.