CR10 V3 BLTouch Installation - Is It Worth It? How easy is it Really?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 พ.ค. 2024
- Transcript: yarkspirifantasyart.com/cr10-...
Chapters:
0:00 - Intro
0:22 - Firmware
2:22 - Physical Installation
3:02 - Settings
4:00 - Test Prints
Bed Leveling Test by bnimon on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:341...
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Hello,
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I wanted to offer up a couple things.
1. If the person gets the bltouch upgrade but the wires are different, you can still make it work but make note that the wires on the v1 mainboard assembly are reversed on the 3 pin connector black end. You will need to swap the blue and red wires. I was trying all sorts of stuff to get mine to work and finally saw that when comparing wire colors to what you had.
2. Maybe I'm wrong as I'm still new to this, but isn't this video about the V3? I've looked on creality's website also and there is not a callout for the CR-10 V3 but I'm pretty certain the firmware to use would be the one that says bltouch with titan extruder. Maybe I'm wrong about that as I haven't gotten mine to work, but just curious.
3. Do you happen to have a link for a good video on how to change out the nozzle on the CR-10 V3?
And as far as the speed goes, it's fine as long as content is there. I regularly pause, rewind, and rewatch just to nitpick everything to make sure I'm understanding it all correctly. So, I think you're video was done pretty well. I learned stuff from it.
Thanks for posting the info for other's who might be having difficulties. It's very much appreciated. The firmware that I received at the time was still named Cr10 V2 at the time so I did a assume that was the correct one. Since I haven't tested the other's I can't say for sure without comparing the source code. I'm happy that you found the pacing to be good. Getting both points of views is important so I appreciate that you took the time to let me know.
I used a 6mm deep socket and and ratchet to get mine out. The tool that comes with it will just strip that brass nozzle and make it round
@@Yarkspiri Please pin this comment to the top. It would've saved me from finding out the hard way, I fried my board and had to replace it due to switched wires in the harness from factory
@@thebishop5940 Just did.
Hey thanks for making this video, it's really helped. I liked how quick and to the point you were.
I'm happy you liked it.
Thank you for this walkthrough, it was very helpful troubleshooting the adhesion issues I was getting after I installed the BLTouch.
Glad it helped!
This is by far the best tutorial I have come across!
Thanks! It took a lot of work but was well worth it.
Hi...Took 5 times to finally get the leveling correct. I was pulling my hair out asking myself WT actual F am I doing wrong. I took some short cuts at the beginning...but found YOU MUST FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS IN ORDER FOR THIS TO WORK!! Thanks Yaz!!!!
No problem. I'm happy that it helped you out.
Thanks Yasmeen!
No problem!
About a minute into this video I knew I screwed up buying a creqlity instead of another prusa. Thanks for the video!
No problem. Creality products are more of a DIY, which does mean that interesting issues can arise.
If I would have seen your video first I would have saved literally hours of work..thank you for this video
No problem. I'm happy that it helped you out.
Hi Yasmeen.
Which are your retraction settings for this titan direct drive? because I heard a frustracting clicking when the gears do the retraction and I broke up one inner bearing from the direct drive and I changed it but still hear a little bit this clicking when the gears do the retraction what do you recommend ? Thanks a lot.
You have to set retractions very low and change the speed. In most cases I've just turned it off depending on what I'm printing. My current settings are 0.8 for the retraction distance (I'm using a 0.8 nozzle) the speed is 25 with an extra prime amount of 0.6. Since every machine is slightly different you'll need to tweak these settings slightly.
I'm going to do this upgrade soon. Curious why you choose CR-10S Pro instead of CR-10/CR-10S at the 1:36 mark - when prepping for firmware install. I have the CR-10 V3 too and am just learning it.
Since I don't normally use the Creality software for slicing I just needed the ability to upload my firmware. I choose something which looked similar at the time and hadn't realized until afterwards the large differences between the two machines.
Am I still supposed to use the Creality slicer to update my firmware? They seem to have moved to a reskin of the CURA software and now I feel a bit weird about using an old slicer to update firmware on a machine that I don't think is actually listed on it. Would you consider remaking this install video? Or clarifying what I need to do? Creality also has what I assume is the proper CR10 V3 BLT firmware in its name.
To update the firmware you have to use the software provided by Creality however once you've completed the update you can use whatever software you want to slice your files. While I don't personally like this approach and would prefer to install a driver instead it's the way this machine works. Creality has the firmware on their website and although it uses the name CR10 V2 BLTouch it still works. The name really doesn't matter all that much unless you want to recompile it yourself.
Great video and guide, the only issue I had was getting the printer to connect to my PC. I kept getting the following message "failed to find printer." I looked through reddit and found that the printer won't connect to 3.0 USB so it was recommended to install CH340 drivers. After doing so the printer connected instantly and the firmware installed without any problems.
3.0 is a problem I find in general, so it's not surprising. Thank you for posting your solution since it'll hopefully help others if they run into this issue as well.
I have installed CH340 drivers and am still having this issue. Can anyone help me out?
@@thebishop5940 Close all the programs that use the same port which includes any slicing software or firmware uploading software. You then have to use the software that's provided by Creality to get it to work properly.
where can I get a cable like that mine came with 2 connectors (1@2pin and 1@3 pin) for the controller end and with out geting a whole new bl touch I don't see any on amazon.
I purchased my BLTouch from Creality to make sure they were compatible, however you could rewire it if you know how the pins are laid out. Since the source code is available you can check the connections with the motherboard and source code to know white pin connections need to be rewired. Alternatively you could e-mail Creality and see if you could just buy the wire itself.
I have a 3DTouch and have been hesitant to install it for months because of other users frying their boards due to confusing pinouts on the V3. 3D PrintingCA shows their pinout board as being (from the rear) brown, red, orange, black, white. Creality shows white, black, yellow, blue, red. Your video shows white, black, yellow, blue, red. All apparently BLTouch, but Creality seems to have intentionally changed the wiring pinout at either the pinout board, or motherboard. Do any of you know the true pinout of the board in electrical terms, and not colors? Eg) Z +, Z gnd, Signal, 5v, Gnd...etc?
Someone was kind enough to post a diagram on this. Here's the link. preview.redd.it/bzlk5ou60jm71.jpg?width=1000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d1efaa2a73e6da746272d43652ba3e5e84bce866 Also I installed the CRTouch recently and didn't have any issues with it so assuming there's no quality control issues you should be good.
@@Yarkspiri Thanks for posting, but my V3 has a v2.5.2 board. Not to mention I ended up frying the board earlier just as I feared lol. Add me to the list. Was afraid to do so so I put it off for a year. Looks like I was right to do so. Thanks anyway!
I see that the creality website now has a firmware update for the CR-10 V3 BLTouch, curious if I would be better off just using that instead of the one you chose in your video, at the time I understand that’s all that was readily available but it makes sense to choose the new one for the correct model no?
I would definitely try the new one since it may contain bug fixes. Let me know if it works out for you.
Wondering if I should heat the bed up before I use the paper? It was -3.8 this morning and I think the bed was hot and I'm redoing it now and it's -3.2 cold.
Once you've set up your BLTouch, the print bed will heat up prior to doing the levelling, so that shouldn't be necessary. I'm running another mode now that might be relevant if you run into issues. Unless something big comes along, that should be the next video to come out.
Why does it not show COM3 when I’m in the slicer..? I can see it in my devices but not in the slicer. Driving me nuts! Tried a few different usb cords. Printer turned on or off. Just can’t get it to connect through the usb and I want to update the firmware so bad! I have the BL touch but can’t use it till I update the firmware correct?
You have to use the Creality software. There's something preventing it from working with anything else. I had the same issue when I tried using alternatives like Cura or Xloader. Also you MUST make sure to have all other applications closed which use the same port. Any slicing or control software will automatically prevent the communication to the port. This includes any arduino based software.
Thanks! I had the same issue and it was because I had Cura open!
After installing BL touch on a cr10 v3, is it just a matter of using say a cr10 pro v2 printer profile to get the right gcode for bed probing going?
I used the V2 profile for mine but added the bed levelling G-code G28 to home the hot end followed by the G29 command. In my profile, I have it after the reset flow rate and before the reset of the extruder.
G28 ; Home
G29 ; Auto bed level
@@Yarkspiri would flashing the cr10 pro v2 blt firmware to the cr10 v3 give a better result?
@@atamigaputer I haven't tried that, so I can't say for sure. I would double-check the source code to make sure everything's the same before doing it.
is it normal for it to go to center when try to home it back to it corner? and x and y home switch got deleted cant recognize home or cant reset home point
It starts at the centre first to get the first measurement, then begins to start probing along the rest of the build plate.
Hey,
how often do i have to repeat this Calibration procedure and do i have to go through the hole Steps (begining at min 3:05) everytime ? Or only if i notice during first printing steps that something isnt ok ?
Ive ordered the BL Touch at Bangood (3 Weeks Ago) and i had to rearrange the cables in the plug. It was not the same as in your video.
I got mine from Creality so I didn't run into compatibility issues. You only have to do the calibration the first time so long as you don't re-enter the EEPROM mode again (that seems to reset it for some reason) or that may have been a glitch. After that when you start up a print the sensor will check the center point on the print bed before doing the print. I haven't had an issues since but I will post if I find any other issues.
@@Yarkspiri Thank you for your fast reply :)
I had to repeat the calibration everytime i change the temperature of the bed. For example: the calibration at 60 degrees does not fit for 80 degrees - and definitely not for a "cold" bed at around 23 degrees. That's not what i expected before buying the BLtouch... at least a profile feature for the different bed temperatures would be nice.
@@Klukwiesau Because the bed warps when it's heated I could see this happening. I've been using a larger 0.8 nozzle in conjunction with a initial level height so I haven't yet been affected by this. For some of my smaller machines I do actually change the initial layer height to help combat this effect. I also normally increase the flow amount just on the first layer to help with adhesion. This might be a more effective workaround for this issue.
@@Yarkspiri Thanks for your reply! Right now i'm not sure if the BLTouch provides any advantage for me... But i will go on printing ;)
How did you perform the table calibration? Could you do it step by step? I am having some problems with my cr10 2 with regard to leveling the table.
If you're referring to the build plate. I use the paper method initially. With the BLTouch installed this becomes automatic. If you could film something and then post it as a response I'll be able to see what parts you're struggling with.
Hey, Bed Leveling Starts at 3:05 min.
I first scewed the Bed complety down, to get some Pressure to the Springs of the Bed. Then released it about 10 Turns.
When I try and change seirial port it doesn't give me an option and when I try and upgrade firmware I doesn't detect my printer is plugged it i have the cr10 v3
You need to make sure to use the Creality software AND make sure that no other slicer, or printer software is open. Using Pronterface, Cura, Arduino or anything similar will tie up the port and prevent the connection.
Which version of the BL Touch is this? I have 3.1 and it does not work with this firmware. i've read things about having to de-solder capacitors from your new printer, which i will not do for this. So if the v2 BL Touch works I would switch to that.
This BLTouch is version 3.1. The exact labeling is as follows A7LZ8 HP7R1 SMARTV3.1 For me it worked without any mods other than the firmware. If you didn't order it from Creality then perhaps the wires are switched somehow. I'd e-mail them just to make sure. Hope this helps.
Why did you choose the bltouch only not the Titan direct drive + bltouch, does it make a difference?
I ordered the two as a bundle (CR10 V3 came with a titan direct drive but the BLTouch was optional) however there were delays at the time of shipping. I'm not sure if the other's who ordered the combo still had to go through the installation process however I did at the time.
@@Yarkspiri ah I see, I’m just wondering about firmware as there was an option for BLTouch with direct drive, does it matter if the firmware includes direct drive?
@@sethj8759 Some report that it doesn't matter since it seems to default but if you have the regular one there's no reason to change it.
So as you said I got the v3, looking for the proper bl touch is hard. None state there for the v3, could you link one you know will work if you have time please?
Thanks again 😁
Creality has the CRTouch which is compatible. There's a lot of knockoff BLTouches out there, so that's the easiest way to prevent any problems.
Do I need to do that same configuration every time I print? Like the Z offset part?
No you only do it once but there is a glitch you need to know about. Once you set it up, exit the menu in question completely and don't go back into it because if you do, it'll set everything to the default settings. After I'd recommend doing a test print just to make sure that you set it up properly just in case. Multiple user's have also noticed this glitch and have commenting about it.
@@Yarkspiri I installed this and did a perfect print, now whenever I try and print the nozzle hits the bed, should I just reset everything to default and go through the installation process?
@@sonsilv222 Yes if it didn't work then do it again but If you're following my process make sure to do each step slowly. My website has the transcript to make it easier for cases like this. yarkspirifantasyart.com/cr10-v3-installing-blt-touch/
Hi so I did everything you said. But the BLTouch won’t compensate for any leveling issues. In essence I still
Need to manually level it. Is there any way to fix this? I did everything you said in the video and I thought it worked but it sadly doesn’t when it’s time to print.
There's a glitch where if you go back and check the offset it will reset everything so make the change and then immediately exit out of the menu to go back to the main screen. That should fix your problem in most cases.
@@Yarkspiri ill try this right now thank you so much, loved the video, ignore what everyone else says.
@@Yarkspiri that unfortunately did not work
@@kevinzelaya5947 Is it always printing the same distance away from the print bed? That'll help determine whether it's the BlTouch or a setting. If it's consistent you can force the distance in the slicer by setting a Gcode with the difference of the initial layer height.
Im still waiting on the cable for the firmware update but after the firmware update can you use cura like normal or do you need to set somthing in the gcode?
Once you've done the update you can use Cura instead. Everything will be automatics afterwards.
@@Yarkspiri maybe i did something wrong my bltouch probes just fine but doesnt seem to be using that information my bed is like 1-2 mm off and my prints still fail i just copy pasted the G code from crealtiy slice to cura to see if that makes a difference anyone else having this issue on cr-10 V3
@@joewhitson1258 There was a glitch that if you went back into the EPROM settings it would reset the offset to the defaults. I'd try to set the Offset and just exit and do a bed leveling probe followed by a test print.
@@Yarkspiri i really apricate your help on this I'm going to try to flash the firmware again and everything because my bed leveling test print looks like the left the offset is down a little to far and on the right its too high so it doesn't stick i run the G29 code to do a auto bed level each print
@@joewhitson1258 How far to the edge is it' unsticking from? I noticed that the probe doesn't reach all the way to the edges when it tests the heights of the bed so I'm wondering if it's within those areas. Also did you do a manual bed leveling before you installed the BLT touch?
Question. So after I set my z offset and saved it, i turned off the machine and turned it back on to make sure the setting saved. It did and I started my first test print and it started printing in the air. It thinks 0 is in the air for some reason even though it stored my z-offset value. Did I do something wrong?
Try setting the Z offset and make to sure to save the EPROM setting. DON'T GO BACK INTO THE MENU to double check. Just print something afterwards by going up into the welcome screen. For some reason double checking that the EPROM saved automatically resets it. Simply start a very short print before shutting it down. I have a feeling that if you didn't return the the welcome screen it wiped your changes.
@@Yarkspiri oh wow I not expect a reply lol. I will try that right now. Very informative video by the way! Good stuff! Subbed :)
I had the same issue with my V2 and it ended up being the firmware from creality being faulty and not letting the z offset go below 0. I joined a Facebook group and downloaded a custom firmware that updates all of this to update marlin. Best decision I made. The group is Creality V2 and V3 firmware.
@@AaronBeihl Thank you for posting that information. I've joined the group and will post the link if I can find it.
@@dunkmeinariver That's why I subbed too:
1. Miss Yasmeen is still very responsive and willing to help
2. I have the same printer!
Hello! I followed your video and kind of make bltouch work. The problem: my bed (y axis) stopped working and just makes this weird rumbling noise whenever I try to put it on auto home. When I try printing things, the bed doesn't move at all. It was fine before I installed Bltouch, and I was sure to not hit any other wires and/or made sure they were tight. Been looking for solutions the past 6 hours. Think you can help? :/
If your machine is making a grinding sound, it normally means that it's trying to move in the wrong direction (it's not homing to the limit switch), so you may have to reverse it in the firmware or by the connection on the motherboard.
@@Yarkspiri Thank you so much for the really fast reply! I tried reverting to the firmware without Bltouch and it still does the same thing. I'm unsure how to reverse it (completely new to this), but I checked the motherboard connection - everything was a tight fit (and glued still). If it's okay with you, will you please point me in the right direction on how to reverse it?
@@roxannesalazar5223 There's a couple of ways to go about it. www.thingiverse.com/groups/tevo-tarantula-owners/forums/general/topic:8156 This thread goes through multiple methods of doing so and includes some links. Flipping the connector is probably going to the easiest if you're new to this. Just be careful not to bend any pins.
@@roxannesalazar5223 In the connection hub where the axis connects to, you have the plastic cover which helps lock the connector in place. You can VERY carefully remove only the plastic guide and then plug in the connector the oposite direction from what it was originally facing. Otherwise you'll go into marlin and reverse it there and recompile the firmware which depending on how new your are might be a little more than your willing to do at the moment.
@@Yarkspiri Hey! With your direction, I was able to find what was wrong with it. I really appreciate your help! Apparently the wires were okay, !all seated well. I also checked the pins and they were good. I checked the firmware and it was also working as intended even after recompiling. The problem was the motor itself! I had no idea why the motor suddenly gave in when this was a really new unit. But after replacing it, it was smooth sailing after that. Thank you so much!
Hello Guys, I have a Problem...
So i bought this tool for my Creality CrR 10 V2. I installed everthing but now I have this problem this the stepmotor which is extruding/transporting my filament turn in the worng direction. Does someone know why?, and can someone help me with this problem?
Stepper motor direction is reversed. You can either reverse the connection on the motherboard on download the source code and recompile with the correct direction.
@@Yarkspiri Thanks a lot ;)
Do you heat the bed before you bed level?
Yes. As the bed heats up it tends to deform which is why when you install the BL touch it checks the level just before the print.
So I can’t use cura if I have this?
You only need their software for the initial installation. Afterwards, you can use whatever your heart desires to slice your files. The moment you update the firmware, you no longer need to use their software. I found this out when I did my most recent upgrade of the hot end and had to update the firmware once again.
Its for a very but the upgrade software you show says v2?
I know. The software provided by both the manufacturers website and the supplier didn't update the name for some reason.
@@Yarkspiri awesome thanks I have to do this mod so I was a little confused
@@kenallen9470 No problem. I hope it helps you out. I also ended up using some spiral wrap band to support the remainder of the wire instead of a piece of bowden tube.
Could you do a video on the easiest way to swap nozzles on the cr10-v3 and your settings for an 0.8mm nozzle? Thanks!
Sure. I'll add it to my checklist. I have to swap it out anyways since I'm upgrading some stuff.
@@Yarkspiri awesome!
I just created the video going over the easiest method for this. Here's the link but just make sure to re-level the bed if you do this or reset the offset on your machine if you have a BLTouch. th-cam.com/video/Sf2HSNvt8NY/w-d-xo.html
@@Yarkspiri thank you!!!
@@fearengine761 No problem.
Fantastic video all installed ok , but when adding the G29 command to cura it doesn't auto bed lével
I had that glitch a couple of times when doing the first couple of prints. I manually choose the auto bed level, and then it started working correctly soon after. If this doesn't work for you, let me know, I'll double-check to make sure that I didn't change any of the Start Gcode.
@@Yarkspiri thanks for the reply , found out the Syntax was wrong on the command in the start g code , I typed g29 instead of G29 lol . Put it down to old age , subscribed ,keep up these great vids
@@PhilDurham No problem. I'm happy the video helped you out.
Does anyone know why I only get com 1 instead of com 3?
also my pc when I try to use com 1 only gets the message cant find machine even though they are an inch apart.
If it's the right COM then it's fine as long as you set it up correctly. However, if the proper COM port ISN'T showing up then it's normally because you have another application open that's using it.
Make sure to use the Creality Software since nothing else seems to work. Then make sure that everything else is closed (Cura, Prusa Slicer, Arduino, Xloader, Pronterface etc) since they will tie up the port communication.
Think of the COM ports as a USB depending on which ports are being used another reference number will be allocated.
I can't believe after all this time of both the sensor and Creality being around. The set-up process is this much garbage. Thank you for your time, it was a very informative video. I'll stick with the paper method and hold on to the sensor. This process of calibration and programming should have been automated years ago.
Agreed. I still calibrate almost all of my machines by hand and find that unless you're changing filaments types consistently it's not really necessary. I'm working on a really cool upgrade though for this machine and I can't wait to share it once it's done. It should help out a lot of people once it's up.
@@Yarkspiri Found out through another you tube. There is a Facebook page for a group that has written their own code to fix the issue.facebook.com/groups/485185272196044
Thank you for posting the link.
It would be nice if you can describe your cumulative experience with your printer and answer the original question from your video -is BLTouch really worth the hassle? CR-10V3 has a thick glass bed which shouldn't warp easily at high temperature. I guess that few simple mechanical adjustments periodically should suffice. Especially since BL-Touch is quite limited in number of testing points, not covering the whole print area. But I would like to hear your opinion.
If I'm using a 0.4 nozzle then for the price it is worth it to help to ensure better level on the first layer however it becomes less relevant when using larger nozzle sizers. As I mentioned it will depend on the type of use case that you have planned for the machine. If you're busy and don't have time to level the bed then this is a great time saver since it will do so automatically while you work on other things. If you're changing the printing materials often this would also be beneficial because of the temperature differences of the bed.
@@Yarkspiri Small nozzles! That’s the detail I missed. My BLT is on its way! Thanks Y.
@@paddlehard5722 No problem. Depending on the work you're doing you may be able to get away with a 0.6 nozzle since it's a good in-between size for such a large printer. If you need the detail though just keep with the 0.4.
Good video. Use tree supports!! Or less density.
I've since switched over to tree supports since someone else recommended it as well. They've improved a lot since the last time I tried them.
GJ
Thank you. I'm happy you liked it.
i cant find the firmware i just found this CR Touch Firmware for 32-bit Motherboard CR-10.zip
The link is on their main website, and it works for both the CRTouch and the BLTouch. drive.google.com/drive/folders/1QZKoduDwKRK2ZSsOY0xUXG2Pwqr5AWlP
@@Yarkspiri thanks
No problem.
works perfect
Ok. I'm sitting here with a brand new v3 and bl touch added. The thing was printing beautifully before I installed the touch. I figured it would make releveling easier than doing paper every time but as soon as I updated the firmware the printer homes at the center and the z is halfway up. if I hit auto home again, it moves up more and more until I pop the switch to prevent damage. I tried manually lowering it to the bed level, but when I try to set that as the offset, it throws an error of "too far". It's entirely unusable with this thing added on. I pulled the firmware right from the store cr10 v3 page so I know it's correct. Anyone had this issue and fixed it? I see others with the issue around, but the suggested fix it to install a custom firmware hosted in a facebook group and I'm not really looking to do that
You can enter some manual Gcode that will force the offset, but did you go into the EPROM yet? The offset needs to be set in the EPROM since it allows you to go into the negatives. Also make sure you remove the end stop switch that was originally used for levelling since this will interfere with the setup.
@@Yarkspiri thought I needed it to be close to the bed before doing that. I'll try it some time soon. I tried a marlin version and that thing almost broke my motors
@@NoxSicarius1 You might want to check the transcript version of the video, so you can check the information more thoroughly. There's little bits of information that are important in order for it to work. This isn't something you should just rush through. Sounds like you might have your motors in reverse, also make sure the print head is in the centre on either axis when testing firmware motor direction in small increments.
@@Yarkspiri First thing is, base firmware works normal. Everything prints perfectly with no issues. When I update, the printer moves to the exact center of the entire frame. x/y/z. so it's floating like 10 inches above the plate. When I press bed level like you do, it sticks the probe out at that 10in mark, moves up, sticks it back out, moves up, moves x/y to home, sticks out one more time, and says probe failed. If I run it again or press auto home, it does the same thing. It will continue doing this if I tell it to until the motors reach the top of the build volume. Also, sometimes when I enter the z axis movement menu, without turning the nob at all, sometimes it will rise infinitely and if I don't flip the switch, it will keep going until the motors are destroyed. My v3 came assembled in 2 parts. All i had to do was bolt it, plug a few cables in, and add the supports. It's been working just fine, but any time I attempt a bl touch firmware update, it becomes entirely useless
@@NoxSicarius1 That's really weird. Try recompiling the firmware from the source code, since I recently did that and didn't have any issues. This will help rule out the firmware. Also, did you purchase the BLTouch from Creality or another source? I suspect your BLTouch is being triggered and that it might not actually be the firmware. You may have a wire that's crossed. If so, you'll need to check the wiring diagram to make sure it's correctly wired. Some viewers have informed me that not all BLTouch are wired the same, especially if they come from another company. If you bought it from Creality I would let them know of the issue and ask them to send a replacement (hint, there's a new version coming out shortly that I'm currently testing). Please let me know how it turns out.
You indicate using a USB cable B but you show a micro USB cable.... which is it?
It's a Micro B USB cable on one end and a USB connection on the other. My apologies about the confusion. Here's a similar diagram from this link uk.rs-online.com/web/generalDisplay.html?id=ideas-and-advice/usb-cable-guide It's the one on the top left of the diagram.
@@Yarkspiri Thank you for the link.
@@Trishlicious No problem. Apologies about the confusion.
What if I don’t have COMM3 as an option
Go into your device manager and see what COMM links you have available. This will help to make sure that you have everything is working properly first. If even after that you don't have the COMM3 you can simply select the one that is connection to your printer. ***When you do this, you must make sure that all other applications using this COMM are closed. Close Cura, Pronterface, Prusa slicer or anything else that's 3d printer related. You need to do this to make the COMM available*** Hope this helps.
@@Yarkspiri I’m assuming device manager is just on my computer and I look it up to find it?
@@aemvideos1965 Yes, but that's assuming you have a PC and not a Mac. On a PC, right mouse click the windows icon, and it should be near the top.
@@Yarkspiri I don’t see anything that says com..
@@aemvideos1965 Ok, let's start at the beginning. Do you have Windows 10?
Hey Yasmeen, I'm very slow, I can admit this. Is there any other tutorials you can recommend? I have the v3 and the touch is coming tomorrow. If you see this and have a solution, thanks, if not, still Thanks for taking the time
There isn't too many at the moment, however I do have the transcript on my website to make things easier. Also, have you tried slowing down the video? I find this helps out a lot. You can do this by going to the gear icon + Playback speed + lower the value to slow it down. I hope this helps. "Searched on TH-cam and found a couple by typing in CR10 V3 in the search bar"
@@Yarkspiri speed isn't the issue, it's slight transparency issues. I like seeing start to finish without cuts. Your video was perfect for literally everyone but me. I'm used to this. Not your fault at all.
As expected mine came with a warped bed So I NEED auto leveling. Creality won't take responsibility so I'm stuck with it. I can't find a replacement bed anywhere that's 300x300. Only 310x310
@@Yarkspiri actually is it just cool if I ask you a few questions? That's my main issue
@@buddybonbutt7510 Sure. I'll answer as best I can. I'm only available at certain times since I work full time.
@@Yarkspiri I get that. Please don't strain yourself.
1. When setting offset, you said to basically level the bed as if I'm doing it manually. So do I do it In 4 corners? Just center?
2. Honestly how does it work if just center? I mean I get the basics, it actuate's when touching the bed, but I have a slight (mm or two) warp from the center of the bed causing all 4 corners to be a tad higher, how will it not cause issues at all 4 corners.
3. Can I switch back to cura once the touch is installed or am I stuck with crealitys? And if I can, does cura need to be modified at all?
4. So, when flashing, is the firmware an executable from the computer, when plugged in to the machine, I run a program and it flashes the printer? Or is it saved to a SD card? I think I need to rewatch that part a few times
5. Does the bed have to go through the leveling process every single time I go to print something?
6. Should I tighten down the knobs for the bed so it can't loosen from the vibrations?
I wish someone would go over exactly what the bltouch is supposed to do
As the heated bed heats up it tends to warp and this changes depending on the temperature. The BlTouch measures surface inconsistencies and compensates for it. Once the bed is initially levelled and the offset is set you also shouldn't need to re-level the bed afterwards. This is useful if you're switching materials often.
Layer height 0.16, wall thickness 2.4, wall line count 6, top/bottom 0.84, top thickness 0.84, top layers 6, bottom thickness 0.84, bottom layers 6, top/bottom pattern Lines,
Outer before inner walls NO, fill gaps between walls Everywhere, horizontal expansion 0, z seam alignment User Specified, z seam x 150, z seam y 300 seam corner preference Smart Hiding, enable Ironing Checked Yes, Ironing pattern zig zag, infill density 20%, line distance 6, infill pattern cubic, minimum infill area 0, printing temp 216°c, build plate 60°c glass, flow 100%, print speed 50 mm/s, infill speed 50, outer wall speed 25, support speed 25, travel speed 120, number of slower layers 2, enable retraction checked Yes, retraction distance 1 mm, retraction speed 25, retraction prime amount 0, combing mode Not In Skin, Avoid Printed Parts when traveling Checked Yes, Avoid Supports When Traveling Checked Yes, enable print cooling Checked Yes, fan Speed 100%, regular fan speed at height .52 mm, minimum layer time 10 s, generate support Checked Yes,Support placement Everywhere, Support overhang angle 55°, Support pattern Zig Zag, connect support zig zags Checked Yes, support density 20%, support z distance 0.16, support x/y distance 0.8, build plate adhesion Raft, raft extra margin 6, raft air gap 0.3mm that on a cr 10 v3 bl touch with g29 after g28 in g code printer settings typed in so can redo bl touch every print and use black (Standard pla) not discout or high grade just standard house brand from 3d printing canada and mint gloss 0 sanding armor ready 3d printed files and never fails yet amazing every print n don't forget to change tubing and or clean throat out of extruder n tip every 1 or 2 rolls for no fails or clogs alone way n piss you off half way lol short of that been 2 years finding the perfect settings n pla 5 this'll unit trust me on above give it a run
Do you have to do the G29 for every print?
Printer and bltouch arrived today.
Hopefully I have no issues installing this and getting printed 😊
Benchy is printing as I type lol
Installed nics firmware soon as I unboxed aswell
Now I need to make a whole new enclosure set up lol
Thanks for all your help
Videos are awesome
The community firmware is almost always better. Pretty much all of my FDM's have an updated firmware which adds a bunch more fucntionality.
Wow, slow down….. Lol. Wish I could make this work…. Mine is 11.2 high. If I adjust Z Offset, to -11.2, it grinds into the board. :(
You need to adjust it slowly, and unfortunately it's going to take a while if it's that height. I also have the transcript on the main website, which is often easier to follow along with. Hope that helps you out.
I'm thankful that you made this video, but sweet mother you went fast and it was very spottily done. You missed a lot. Thanks for your time though!
Short and to the point for the first viewing but it's intended to be slowed down if you intend to use it as a guide. I also have a transcript on the main website which can sometimes help.
I have a cr10 v3 ... manual bed levelling is so easy that it takes less than a minute to perform and you only do it once every few prints .... I dont see a need for auto bed levelling for this printer .... adding complexity is not always the best choice - more things that can go wrong .... I love the CR10v3 btw !!! SO SILENT !!!
Ya that was pretty much my results as well. I do wish that it would probe a larger area however since I could see this being problematic in the corner regions. There's been a least 1 viewer which had this problem so I suspect their bed wasn't fully flat along the corner edges.
You should use tree supports, they remove in minutes.
I have three 3D printers, none of them have auto-levelling, never seen the need. The one printer I had with auto-leveling was always failing and causing problems when the head was boucing around the bed at the start of a print. The truth of auto-leveling is that it is cheaper to use a microswitch than machine a proper flat bed.
With a feeler gauge, you can map out the low spots on any bed, then add Kaptan tape under the bed to tram it properly and make the bed flat.
As for the CR10V3, every video I see shows poor quality prints, lots of oozing on layer shifts and ringing.
Those instructions from Creality are ridiculous. They have to do better.
I've used tree supports in the past with mixed results in Cura but they've updated so I may try it again.
I have a couple of I3 mega's ( one Mega S and Mega M) along side the CR10 V3 and work with multiple machines with my clients at work. While auto bed leveling isn't necessary when it comes to smaller machines I do find it helps with the larger one's. When the bed heats up it tends to deform (Most of the one's in studio have glass beds currently) and this deformation is much more noticeable on the larger models. The Anycubic Chiron at work is specifically notorious for this (we did not install the auto bed leveling because of the issues associated with it) and we normally use it with a 0.6 nozzle to take best advantage of the larger build volume.
When testing the CR10 V3 it worked just fine with without the BLTouch. Also important to note is that the CR10 V3 was producing very little oozing while I was testing it with the smaller nozzle size. This was with untuned profiles so with better tuned profiles this may work even better. I personally didn't have issues with layer shifts or ringing at the time. I've personally outfitting mine with a 0.8 nozzle since I mainly use it for prototyping products and parts. If there's enough demand I may swap out the nozzle and do more in-depth tests with a smaller nozzle size however I doesn't seem like the best use case for a larger print volume.
While Creality does miss some important details for their videos, I have found them to be more proactive in producing such video tutorials. My very first machine was the HE3D H-500 as a early kit adopter. The included instructions were in black and white and were missing important steps while also needing initial modifications to enable full advertised print volume. Reverse engineering the firmware was also a big drawback at the time although it was a very educational process to say the least. So far Anycubic and Creality have done much better jobs with providing a beginner friendly experience than the aforementioned one but that was several years ago so maybe they've upped their game since.
I recently tried the tree supports and now that the feature is finalized it's much better in most cases. There are some glitches but I will be testing work arounds for those in the future to see if they help.
Kinda bugs me that it says v2 on the control now but thank you!
Ya I know how you feel but the good news is that you know which source code to use. So if you have recompile it it's easier.
Hey so I keep leveling and setting my z offset but no matter what I try it always starts printing in mid air now ☹️
@@alexwinters8371 Did you set Z offset in the EPROM? You need go to EPROM then change the Z-offset + save changes. Also I noticed a little glitch that if you re-enter the EPROM afterwards it resets it back to default.
@@Yarkspiri yes I did and Ok I thought I was going crazy because I noticed that too but once I enter it and save it i still get flying spaghetti ☹️
@@alexwinters8371 Yikes! Well did you try re-uploading the firmware? It could be that it didn't update correctly. I normally wait a while longer just to make sure that it's fully done before disconnecting. I used the version that was posted on the Creality.com Website just to make sure that I had the most recent one.
Are you from newfoundland
No I'm not. But I'm happy you've enjoyed my videos.
The music is a bit busy/distracting, but this is fairly straight to the point
I've lowered the volume for future videos so it should be better.
Well is it worth it?
Depends on your use case. If you're constantly changing filament types then yes because the bed will warp differently for the varying temperatures. If you're always using the same temperatures for the bed then not so much.
Great video. Only criticism would be to go a bit slower through the steps. Other than that, you helped me out a ton!
If you're trying to follow the step by step I recommend going to my website where I have the transcript available. It makes it a lot easier to follow if slowing down the video speed doesn't work.
Bacon lettuce tomato touch
Oh, man, now I want a sandwich. I'll take mine toasted with some cheese on it. Lol.
The video was helpful but my problem was you were moving and talking fast so I literally had to watch your vid no less than 20 times
There's a transcript on my website which makes it easier to follow when using it as a tutorial. If you prefer using the video format then you can click on the gear icon on the bottom right-hand side of the video and change the playback speed to slow things down.
Were you hungry when you made this video? you keep referring to the Bl Touch as the BLT Touch LOL
Probably. I was working two jobs at the time.
Why do you talk so fast? It is really hard to follow someone speed-talking like Eddy Murphy.
Unfortunately people lose interest when the dialogue is normal paced. There is the option to change the playback speed by clicking the gear icon at the bottom of the video.
@@Yarkspiri The point isn't to be entertaining, it's to instruct. The only reason someone would watch such an esoteric video is to learn if the upgrade is worth it and how to do it. Instruction must be clearly stated in defined steps to be clear. Speaking too fast with a matching fast edit is overwhelming and counterproductive. Music should never be played in the background of any instructional video as it is distracting and inhibits comprehension. I've been producing educational videos for decades and we never play music during instruction. You also need to ensure that the text in your screen shots is legible. Your information is good and you've broken it down appropriately. You simply need to think of how you would teach this to someone sitting next to you. You wouldn't talk fast or play music, you would take them through each step to be sure they understand. You're producing valuable videos, but you need to quit worrying about your viewer's attention span and focus on getting the information across clearly.
It's one of the primary reasons I also added captions to these videos and transcripts onto my website. In today's fast growing society people need to digest large amounts of information in a shorter period of time. I for one have to speed up the videos I watch in order to fit them into my small timeframe which is normally around 30min to 1 hour of personal time while it's 2 to 3 hours minimum of research each day. It's a delicate balance that I'm still working on figuring out the tempo but does take time to achieve as some who also produces content may very well know. If you have a portfolio demonstrating your abilities in educational content I would be interesting in seeing them as a reference for my own content. As for the music, unfortunately that's most likely to stay for a while although I may do some modifications in the sound levels.
@@Yarkspiri Agreed, I've listened and lean with your instructions with a 1.75 speed, and it seemed pretty fine to me.
If someone has a speed problem to follow, he can easily just change the settings.
It's literally 3 clicks.
Great Job Yasmeen, Keep up!
Not gonna lie it is a bit too fast for me. Good video I just dislike having to go back more than 20 times because I missed something that was important but was only 1 or 2 seconds.
I have the File Transcript of the video on my main website or alternative you can slow down the video by hitting the gear icon and changing the speed. I normally recommend this if you're going to be using it as a tutorial.
@@Yarkspiri true, regardless it helped once I got all the way through it. unfortunately I'm having issues with the z-offset but ill figure it out later.
@@stockquest7867 There's a glitch in the system where if you go back in a check whether you set the Z offset correctly it resets. So complete the change and exit immediately. Then do at least two small prints to make sure that everything is working properly.
@@Yarkspiri I will try that. I went to do the bed leveling portion and it rose like 200mm above the build plate and started doing it in the air.
@@stockquest7867 You may have set it in reverse. I believe the numbers should be set in the negatives. To keep track always right down the numbers as you make changes or take a photo of the screen to reference back to. That should help you a lot.
certainly wasn't worth it on my cr-10 v2 ... all it did was print ten inches over the bed.
I just cut the wire and reinstalled the original firmware, now it's just an ugly cancer on my machine. without this POS my printer runs perfectly.
There's a little hack if the regular levelling doesn't work. You can incrementally adjust the initial Z-offset. The main downside is that you'll have to guess the amount that it's off by. I had to do this when I upgraded to the hot end to an all metal. Since the firmware had to be recompiled, I'm assuming there's a tweak that isn't in the most recent source code version.
You really need to slow down your talking. I have to watch this in half speed
I would be interested in knowing if the pacing is more appropriate in the follow up video with the filament sensor mod. That video has some spacing introduced into the dialogue. If I get several likes (100) on your comment then I'll look into the issue more.
@@Yarkspiri 100vlikes on this comment? You don't even have 100 likes or dislikes on your entire video, and now you're trying to tell your audience (with multiple complaints) that they are wrong? You lost a sub in me
It the best way to get an object view from multiple individuals. Each individual has different tolerances on speed and is able to process information at different rates. Also did you you check to see if the talking speed was more appropriate in the most recent video yet? This issue may have already been addressed your satisfaction.
I think she spoke just fine.
@@Yarkspiri I like you pace of speak. I don't know if it is you personaly or robot, but it is very articulated and understandable. If I want to stay on some point to digest, I simply pause the video. Thanks.
Stop saying BLT touch. Dude you are outa touch!
Dreaming of a BLT sandwich while working on a script was definitely never going to work out well.