I just put on a 3 “ lift on my gmc went with rough county 3” struts and new control arm it’s a must when raising your truck especially if u are raising it 2 “ or higher spacers suck bad I’ll tell u y because when you start using spacers, add to your struts, actually put more stress on your upper control arms down. Once it starts angling your wear and tear come sooner I give it two years you’ll be back at my shop. I deal with people that issues and most of the time is because they use spacers so whenever you use spacers think about it think about the math the pressure you’re putting on the upper control arm so I do recommend you buy two or 3 inch struts whatever you prefer and definitely buy upper control arms to go with them. It’s safer and it’s done right I don’t understand why companies don’t tell you you should put upper control arms. I own a garage and I do this all the time please take my advice.
Just did my 3.5 inch leveling kit today. Even with someone with me it took 4 hours for both tires. Worth it, but not ever doing this again. 2.5 inch you can see the front is font heavy. 3.5 inch you can not.
3.5" uh no. 08 Sierra 1500 4wd.I've got a 2.5 motofab lift with 2" rear block. Bilstein 5100 shocks and struts, cognito upper control arms, and dirt Kings control arm bolt kit. Had to get arms because I did the lift when I replaced everything on my front end. Upper control arms are almost shot after a year. 2" level, ok, anything bigger get control arms. Learning the cheap way costs more 💰
I know its not critical but to make clean cuts on the shock studs, you can add two nuts to the thread one being used as a jam nut the other to set the depth for the cut . great video thanks for the descriptive content.
I had a 3.5" Supreme Suspension spacer kit in my old 2007 f150, and it was probably the strongest thing in the truck lol. I'm curious to see how similar this set is to what I had
@@lanerasnake6265 for that truck, I'd say no. The 5.4L engine, especially in the 2007 is trash. It needed a whole new engine at 123k. I got so fed up with it, I got rid of the whole truck, rather than waste any more money on it
@Leo Coffy what i said is not BS......the bolts being hammered in from either top or bottom will cause that bushing on the bottom of the strut to rotate. Vise is easier if u have one but either way ur using the tension of the suspension to force the bushing to rotate so the orientation of the bolts doesn't matter when it comes to that as long as u can hammer them in. But it is a fact if u keep installing the bolts like factory with a bottom spacer and longer bolt it WILL rub the cv axles.
@Leo Coffy I gotcha. No offense taken and I'm not speaking specifically for this kit but the majority of the other where it's just a thicker bottom spacer (and u don't even need to turn the bushing) is where u will run into the bolts hitting the cv axles if installed like factory. Besides there is no difference from hammering in the bolt from bottom or top.. and I would throw away that factory clip and switch to nuts anyways because the clips are very brittle and mine cracked when I tried to bolt the thing down(bolting it down and making the bushing turn puts too much stress on the clips) Are u saying ur stuck at the point of rotating the bottom of the strut?
@Leo Coffy I ended up doing the motofab kit where it's just a spacer on top so I had no issue making the bottom line up with the hammering the bolts through method. Since I can see how adding the lower spacer would make it more difficult to line up maybe try leaving it out and bolting it up to make that bushing turn then just take it apart and add the spacer.
Im getting 2.5 inch lift springs,blisten 5100 adjustable,2-4inch lift control arm,Differential Drop Kit, and Tuff Country 2” Rear Add-a-Leafs is there anything else im missing to reduce wear and tear???
Wouldn’t it make sense to put the driver side strut with the spacer on the passenger side and vice versa to reduce that crazy extra bottom busing deflection from rotating the strut 180.
A leveling kit like this will definitely put more stress on your front upper control arms. I'd highly recommend pairing a kit like this with aftermarket upper control arms to correct this potential issue. -Zach
Ordered this kit for my 2010 Silverado and I can’t get my control arm to get close enough to put the nut, it just bottoms on the stopper that’s apart of the frame. When I try to compress the strut it just lifts my truck off the jacks... I need help, my truck is apart and I only have a few days to get it back together before I go back to work. do I need to order new control arms that are made for the lift? Please help
@Leo Coffy I ended up just ordering the rough country control arms, they fit perfectly, I paid extra for over night shipping so I could put my truck back together for work.
Ben Brumbley it’s recommended to purchase the differential drop package because the CV axle angle is pretty sharp but if your truck is a z71 you will need to get longer bolts I’m actually putting one on my 08 gmc z71
Oh boy here we go again... Another video pushing a bad product. Pay to lift you truck the right way. Or pay more later to fix all the shit you're going to be tearing up.
@@YdosK the best way would be to get an upper control arm that fixes the ball joint angle. Rough Country has a forged UCA that does this. You'd also need to drop the front diff to help with the cv angles, etc.
@@yeezy2136 depends, a full lift has more components so there's more to maintain but they do fix all of the issues. That being said there's also cutting and grinding into the frame which I'm personally not a fan of. 4" is about as high as you can go (check out 4" SST ReadyLift) for a "level/lift" AS LONG as you get new uca's that fix the uca ball joint angle, AND the front differential needs to be dropped to basically imitate a 2.5" level kit if you're above 2.5". That's about the max the cv axles can handle before you need to start dropping the front diff. If you have a 2wd all you need to worry about is the balljoint angle. You might also wanna check the knuckle kit lifts if you want to keep your oem uca's.
@@tylerewald7369 so since my trucks 2wd i only have to worry about balljoint angle if i just lift the front 3.5 in? could you possibly link me what i would need for the 3.5 inch lift up front
Check Out This Leveling Kit: amtrucks.at/2HApF0u
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Those CV angles have got to be glorious ;)
I just put on a 3 “ lift on my gmc went with rough county 3” struts and new control arm it’s a must when raising your truck especially if u are raising it 2 “ or higher spacers suck bad I’ll tell u y because when you start using spacers, add to your struts, actually put more stress on your upper control arms down. Once it starts angling your wear and tear come sooner I give it two years you’ll be back at my shop. I deal with people that issues and most of the time is because they use spacers so whenever you use spacers think about it think about the math the pressure you’re putting on the upper control arm so I do recommend you buy two or 3 inch struts whatever you prefer and definitely buy upper control arms to go with them. It’s safer and it’s done right I don’t understand why companies don’t tell you you should put upper control arms. I own a garage and I do this all the time please take my advice.
i have had a 2.5 in level on my 2018 z71 for the past 6 years no problems at all
Just did my 3.5 inch leveling kit today. Even with someone with me it took 4 hours for both tires. Worth it, but not ever doing this again. 2.5 inch you can see the front is font heavy. 3.5 inch you can not.
3.5" uh no. 08 Sierra 1500 4wd.I've got a 2.5 motofab lift with 2" rear block. Bilstein 5100 shocks and struts, cognito upper control arms, and dirt Kings control arm bolt kit. Had to get arms because I did the lift when I replaced everything on my front end. Upper control arms are almost shot after a year. 2" level, ok, anything bigger get control arms. Learning the cheap way costs more 💰
I know its not critical but to make clean cuts on the shock studs, you can add two nuts to the thread one being used as a jam nut the other to set the depth for the cut . great video thanks for the descriptive content.
Thanks for watching! -Zach
I had a 3.5" Supreme Suspension spacer kit in my old 2007 f150, and it was probably the strongest thing in the truck lol. I'm curious to see how similar this set is to what I had
Was it worth it? I just ordered the same one for my 2007 f150
@@lanerasnake6265 for that truck, I'd say no. The 5.4L engine, especially in the 2007 is trash. It needed a whole new engine at 123k. I got so fed up with it, I got rid of the whole truck, rather than waste any more money on it
@@mattcrandall5045how was it not good
I have this on my 2018 and I am getting excessive toe wear. Are upper control arms needed to correct. Truck has been professionally aligned.
No need for a diff drop with this 3.5?
Goodbye ball joints.
Small price to pay to be cool. Lol
Mine been fine for 5 years
Fuck dem ball joints
@@robertdean6222 if you dont thrash it right you wont trash it right?
I think there are upgrades upper control arms you can get to fix that problem of the ball joint popping out
I'm having trouble putting the upper control arm to the spindle it won't reach? Do I need to loosen it all the way so it can have more movement?
that’s the same problem i’m having, how did you solve it??
@@jacintodeleon1831 I used a pry bar but it berly grabs on then you tighten it up
What size tires are those? 33s?
That's only half of what needs to be done to the front you need to drop the differential 1.5 inches in order to retain your proper axle alignment.
I have a question is there any reason why you go the opposite way installing the bolts on the lower end of the strut????
So the longer bolts don't rub the cv axles. Depending on the size of the spacer the new bolts are usually at least an inch longer.
@Leo Coffy what i said is not BS......the bolts being hammered in from either top or bottom will cause that bushing on the bottom of the strut to rotate. Vise is easier if u have one but either way ur using the tension of the suspension to force the bushing to rotate so the orientation of the bolts doesn't matter when it comes to that as long as u can hammer them in. But it is a fact if u keep installing the bolts like factory with a bottom spacer and longer bolt it WILL rub the cv axles.
@Leo Coffy I gotcha. No offense taken and I'm not speaking specifically for this kit but the majority of the other where it's just a thicker bottom spacer (and u don't even need to turn the bushing) is where u will run into the bolts hitting the cv axles if installed like factory. Besides there is no difference from hammering in the bolt from bottom or top.. and I would throw away that factory clip and switch to nuts anyways because the clips are very brittle and mine cracked when I tried to bolt the thing down(bolting it down and making the bushing turn puts too much stress on the clips) Are u saying ur stuck at the point of rotating the bottom of the strut?
@Leo Coffy I ended up doing the motofab kit where it's just a spacer on top so I had no issue making the bottom line up with the hammering the bolts through method. Since I can see how adding the lower spacer would make it more difficult to line up maybe try leaving it out and bolting it up to make that bushing turn then just take it apart and add the spacer.
the upper arms are resting on the bump stops lol why did you even bother reviewing a 3.5 level
What's the biggest tire u can do
Chris Petersen 33”
35! If you don't believe me go see my video
tuiyadrana waqs 33” is all I could get
@@rodneybell6662 I only have 3 inch leveling kit and I put 37 inch tires on my 2015 gmc sierra. Watch my TH-cam video if you don't believe me
Im getting 2.5 inch lift springs,blisten 5100 adjustable,2-4inch lift control arm,Differential Drop Kit, and Tuff Country 2” Rear Add-a-Leafs is there anything else im missing to reduce wear and tear???
Why is my lower front spacer made of plastic everything is built aluminum but that lower front spacer is this bad?
Wouldn’t it make sense to put the driver side strut with the spacer on the passenger side and vice versa to reduce that crazy extra bottom busing deflection from rotating the strut 180.
my first thought, I might try it out
Does that put alot of stress on the control arms?
A leveling kit like this will definitely put more stress on your front upper control arms. I'd highly recommend pairing a kit like this with aftermarket upper control arms to correct this potential issue. -Zach
Ordered this kit for my 2010 Silverado and I can’t get my control arm to get close enough to put the nut, it just bottoms on the stopper that’s apart of the frame. When I try to compress the strut it just lifts my truck off the jacks... I need help, my truck is apart and I only have a few days to get it back together before I go back to work. do I need to order new control arms that are made for the lift? Please help
You need rough country upper control arms. Using the stock ones you’ll blow a ball joint hitting a pothole or bump
@Leo Coffy I ended up just ordering the rough country control arms, they fit perfectly, I paid extra for over night shipping so I could put my truck back together for work.
@Leo Coffy yeah mine was a pain I had drill a few bolts out, It wasn’t fun
How are the CV angles and ball joint angles?
Ben Brumbley it’s recommended to purchase the differential drop package because the CV axle angle is pretty sharp but if your truck is a z71 you will need to get longer bolts I’m actually putting one on my 08 gmc z71
Oh boy here we go again... Another video pushing a bad product. Pay to lift you truck the right way. Or pay more later to fix all the shit you're going to be tearing up.
sorry im late and hopefully it gets to you.. how would i level 3in in the front correctly? i dont want a full lift all around.
@@YdosK the best way would be to get an upper control arm that fixes the ball joint angle. Rough Country has a forged UCA that does this. You'd also need to drop the front diff to help with the cv angles, etc.
Would a full lift be better than a level since it comes with more components?
@@yeezy2136 depends, a full lift has more components so there's more to maintain but they do fix all of the issues. That being said there's also cutting and grinding into the frame which I'm personally not a fan of. 4" is about as high as you can go (check out 4" SST ReadyLift) for a "level/lift" AS LONG as you get new uca's that fix the uca ball joint angle, AND the front differential needs to be dropped to basically imitate a 2.5" level kit if you're above 2.5". That's about the max the cv axles can handle before you need to start dropping the front diff. If you have a 2wd all you need to worry about is the balljoint angle. You might also wanna check the knuckle kit lifts if you want to keep your oem uca's.
@@tylerewald7369 so since my trucks 2wd i only have to worry about balljoint angle if i just lift the front 3.5 in? could you possibly link me what i would need for the 3.5 inch lift up front
This is just dumb. Anything over 2-2.5 inches is too much for just spacers
defiantly not a 3.5 that us more like a 2.5, if it was a 3 or 3.5 you would NOT have to cut off the studs on the strut.
o i see they added more on the bottom of the strut.