Thanks a lot for this video! I was able to mod my Huntsman Analog successfully. I removed the wires, since they dont really have a purpose. I even added foam to the inner case where the switches are. And to bringt it to the next level I put a little bit of foam under the keycaps. The typing is much more quiet and only a little spongy
Actually I stepped Back from the Huntsman Elite V2 to my old blackwidow because of how it feels WAY less durable although Its so much more Expensive. Also depending the whole analog Deal on Synapse is ... Kinda annoying to say the least. The Software is far from faulty. I did Enjoy this video alot tho, and I Hope you get some more recognition. These Videos really are Professional. Keep it Up and thank you for Clearing Out a question I actually for quite a while! :D
I've had sudden issues with my E key on my huntsman v2 analog (I blame the team that designed the fight against the event leshen in monster hunter world, poorly designed fight that made me spam my E key for potions (or maybe i'm just bad at the game), after some time the key started to register two inputs per press for a few minutes, then died completely. I've searched across everywhere on Razer insider and reddit to know if I could actually swap switches without unsolding the whole thing, and after no acceptable answer, your video gave me the information I needed. So thanks a lot for that ! Also, nice job making the keyboard even better with those switches and keycaps !
@@fabiopauli420 there are both screws in to top plate and screws in the plastic piece. Then it's a matter of getting the plastic clips on the inside to release. Using a guitar pick or something similar will help you from having them re launch
@@greaterthanpie wow thanks for the super fast reply. I actually managed to get it off (i sadly did manage to break one of the plastic clamps) i literally got it off by just trying to hold it the way you did in the video and immitating your hand movements without really knowing what they would do. Well thanks anyway. Wish me luck i can solter my Handcussion connection on correctly XD
I really do like the feel of the keycaps for this keyboard, but i really hate how it isn't very bright. If you take off the keycaps, you can tell they are very bright, but with the key caps on the rgb just dims down so much.
Very very useful. Your find that the daughter board is grounded on the case raises my suspicions re the occasional key spamming these keyboards have a known tendency to do is linked to static buildup.
I have the same keyboard, one of my switches broke, and I managed to pull them out with a pair of players from the top, it was not an easy job. (had replacements from a "broken" keyboard since the one I have RN is a new one from RMA and the old one had the cable cut off)
Great video, thanks for this information! Do you know if the Huntsman V2 (the newer one not the analog) got hotswappable switches too? And if so, do you think is possible to put razer purple optical switches inside the analog version without breaking the functionalities? I would love to have a clicky v2 analog!
@@marcinskiper273 Yes, it did. So in short, yes all of the huntsman switches are the same. You can mix and match clicky and linear if you wanted it would just be a very expensive project
Hello! I have a question about the analog switches, I'm trying to see if it's possible to mod the analog depth of the keys by somehow modifying the mechanism inside of the switches. Do you know what thing is inside the switches that control how much the laser gets blocked? Thank you so much and this video was really helpful.
also when you took apart the keyboard, did u come across a 3 pin or 4 pin connector that connects from the daughter board to the cables that exit the keyboard?
Almost perfect video... but you should've shown us the process of lubing thoroughly, how exactly did you lube, which places you did lube, we needed bigger picture of the process (
@@_SPG_ I'm actually going to be taking a look at the huntsman V2 tkl that just came out. It's a little down my list of projects but I will go over over it in that video
@@greaterthanpie i see they now add sound dampening foam in new Huntsman 2.. wonder if it would be possible to install the same in Analog version if one manages to get this foam separately as a sparepart )))
I have a Hunstman v2 full size, looks a bit newer then this one? Anyways, I much more prefer a white keyboard and razer doesnt make them, would it be possible to paint the front piece so its white? (makes the led's look better imo)
For the most part yes. The housing is a little weird so you don't have to take it apart to get to everything. So you can kind of skip the step where you would take it apart. All of the electronic bits are actually not even in the switch on this keyboard.
I really want to try these mods on my own v2 analog but I am a beginner at kb modding. Is there a more detailed video on lubing these switches and stabs? Will it reduce the wiggle of the keys?
Hi, When you say that the Huntsman series keyboards are hot swappable, do you think that we can install other optical switches like the ones from Gateron ? Or just those from Razer ?
@@greaterthanpie I think it doesnt affect how it sounds because I painted the huntsman te and well it didnt sound any different since your only painting the top metal board.
@@genshinplayer1608 are you able to take this metal top plate off when you take apart the keyboard? Mine is slightly bent in the corner from the shipping and I want to see if I can take the whole thing apart and bend it back into the flat shape.
@@ericpadinjarekuttu8696 yea, after u take the whole keyboard apart and take all the switches off, u unscrew the motherboard from the top plate and it should just fall off, and u should have assess to it from there.
I'll straight up say it - there is no smoother switch, these analog opticals are the GOAT switch. Cherry switches don't even come close. In my opinion, this is the best keyboard moeny can buy. Yes, I make bold statements, but they are also true statements...
is the led part of the switch so that you can just pop out the switch and replace it? my cat shorted out the leds on a few of the keys on my huntsman elite and id rather fix it than replace it
the metal plate for my huntsman analog is bent is there any way to take it apart and bend it back into the right shape? I can send you a picture if u want
There is if you take it down to the PCB you will see screws on the back of it. Those connect the plate to the PCB remove them and the plate should come right off
Unfortunately the way the switches are held in you will probably break them if you try to remove them from the top and the only way to get to the bottom is to take apart the case
@@greaterthanpie awesome thanks. I want to put the purples in the Analog. I bought a V2 with purples but the Analog build seems better and has the RGB but I like the purple switches. If only I can swap them out. I should be able to right?
Unfortunately, I do not. If you look at the back of the PCB you would be able to tell though. If there is no solder pads connected to the switching anyway, then it should be removable
What do I need to remove the rubber feet without damaging them? Can I put them back on again after removal? Also how did you lube the stabs on the spacebar?
I used an electronics scraper it was in my electronics repair kit form ifix it. To reattach the rubber feet all you need to use is some spray adhesive on the back of the feet and they'll attach right back on.
have you tried to remove the silicone dampener inside the v2 switches? and if so do they still work? Im planning to get a huntsman mini but I want to keep the clacky sound of the v1 so i was wondering if you can remove the silicone dampeners and the switch will still work
Have you encountered any issues with this keyboard so far? out of the box had 2 issues. "M" key wasn't actuating properly, razer recommended to use compressed air which surprisingly works doesn't give much hope for durability. However I also found that there are stuck key issues e.g. "wasd" not registering. in my case I have identified "A", "D"(during COD cold war & genshin impact), and "enter"(no games). Reading on reddit seems like a known issues with multiple cases and no solution, only workarounds. Hoping that you have a solution for it that does not include turning off razer synapse since the keyboard main feature runs on it..
I actually have had similar issues with this keyboard before I modded it actually. The switches themselves are only held in with friction. So it's a little possible for them to shift around the first step I would do is give them all a good press don't push too hard but if you see any that look like they are slightly off the PCB try to press it back in. The compressed air works because if dust gets underneath the switch there is a spot that it can block the laser. This laser is really really tiny and it's not even inside the switch at all it's actually under the keyboard PCB. That being said I found that in razor synapse if you raise the actuation point from its lowest amount it got rid of most of the issues. That's sticking key issue was extremely annoying until I found that out.
@@greaterthanpie May I know what is your actuation point setting that you are using? I am currently using actuation point at 3.6mm and release point at 3.2mm for all keys. Encountered during COD cold war with that settings where "D" did not depressed although I released the character fully (key came up also), and my character continued moving right until I pressed D again.
@@_SPG_ do you own it also? have you tried it? its a work around, but seems like it might be working. I am giving it a few more days to confirm if it works for me. Another thing i am trying is to change to quick effects for RGB instead of studio effects.
I have a huntsman V2 with optical purple switches and it sounds just like that. I want it loud and clicky like the OG blackwidow, this muted dampened sound just sounds like cheap shit to me.
Hello Pie, That was amazing, i have o freaking question, as a noob in lubin switches, it's posible to just lub the surface (taking of the keycaps) lubin the sides bars? Thanks for everthing, just asking cause im afraid of damaged something. But good Lord the result sound was awesome.
I would lube the stabilizers bars and if you have a hobby syringe you can put a little bit of lube on the parts that slide. I might try that myself on my next Razer build.
My last comment was posted after the first typing sound example. Now that I've finished the video, that still sounds terrible. I really wish they'd go back to making to Blackwidow how they did on 2016. They was the perfect keyboard all around.
Thanks a lot for this video! I was able to mod my Huntsman Analog successfully. I removed the wires, since they dont really have a purpose. I even added foam to the inner case where the switches are. And to bringt it to the next level I put a little bit of foam under the keycaps. The typing is much more quiet and only a little spongy
Which wires did you remove?
@@sol05033149 Uhm well these little metal things at the switch. In the video he did lube them a but back, but I did neither
@@sol05033149 i think he means the stabilizers?
Actually I stepped Back from the Huntsman Elite V2 to my old blackwidow because of how it feels WAY less durable although Its so much more Expensive. Also depending the whole analog Deal on Synapse is ... Kinda annoying to say the least. The Software is far from faulty. I did Enjoy this video alot tho, and I Hope you get some more recognition. These Videos really are Professional. Keep it Up and thank you for Clearing Out a question I actually for quite a while! :D
I've had sudden issues with my E key on my huntsman v2 analog (I blame the team that designed the fight against the event leshen in monster hunter world, poorly designed fight that made me spam my E key for potions (or maybe i'm just bad at the game), after some time the key started to register two inputs per press for a few minutes, then died completely. I've searched across everywhere on Razer insider and reddit to know if I could actually swap switches without unsolding the whole thing, and after no acceptable answer, your video gave me the information I needed. So thanks a lot for that ! Also, nice job making the keyboard even better with those switches and keycaps !
@@Probably-Yume I'm glad I could help.
I really appreciate the help with this keyboard... I'm going to try to change the switches with no experience haha
Bruh changes switches is like opening and closing a pen cap don't need to experience
would have been cool to see how you lubed them.. where do you put the lubed brush exactly?
Isn't it risky to lube optical switches? Isn't there a chance that the lube may interfere with the laser inside the switch and rendering it unusable?
Dont apply too much or dont use a thick lubricant and youll be fine
Oh and i forgot to mention this but the switches are so easy to lube you could use dw40 to lube them lol
you know that if you take out the stabilisers from the switches it still works, and it sounds better.
Hi, idk if you are even still active but how did you do the step at 3:03? I swear i have been trying to get this plastic off for an hour
@@fabiopauli420 there are both screws in to top plate and screws in the plastic piece. Then it's a matter of getting the plastic clips on the inside to release. Using a guitar pick or something similar will help you from having them re launch
@@greaterthanpie wow thanks for the super fast reply. I actually managed to get it off (i sadly did manage to break one of the plastic clamps) i literally got it off by just trying to hold it the way you did in the video and immitating your hand movements without really knowing what they would do. Well thanks anyway. Wish me luck i can solter my Handcussion connection on correctly XD
I really do like the feel of the keycaps for this keyboard, but i really hate how it isn't very bright. If you take off the keycaps, you can tell they are very bright, but with the key caps on the rgb just dims down so much.
it's NOT lasers in the switch, it's just a diode and a light receiver sensor
Great mod. The keeb sounds much better now.
is the huntsman elite also "hot swappable?"
Very very useful. Your find that the daughter board is grounded on the case raises my suspicions re the occasional key spamming these keyboards have a known tendency to do is linked to static buildup.
I have been shocked before because of that ground
I have the same keyboard, one of my switches broke, and I managed to pull them out with a pair of players from the top, it was not an easy job. (had replacements from a "broken" keyboard since the one I have RN is a new one from RMA and the old one had the cable cut off)
the huntsman series have always been hotswappable (not quite hotswappable hotswappable but you could always change switches without soldering)
Great video, thanks for this information! Do you know if the Huntsman V2 (the newer one not the analog) got hotswappable switches too? And if so, do you think is possible to put razer purple optical switches inside the analog version without breaking the functionalities? I would love to have a clicky v2 analog!
I cannot confirm it yet but I will be getting one soon to find out
@@arctichere 😉
@@greaterthanpiehave You found out?
@@marcinskiper273 Yes, it did. So in short, yes all of the huntsman switches are the same. You can mix and match clicky and linear if you wanted it would just be a very expensive project
Hello! I have a question about the analog switches, I'm trying to see if it's possible to mod the analog depth of the keys by somehow modifying the mechanism inside of the switches. Do you know what thing is inside the switches that control how much the laser gets blocked? Thank you so much and this video was really helpful.
also when you took apart the keyboard, did u come across a 3 pin or 4 pin connector that connects from the daughter board to the cables that exit the keyboard?
Almost perfect video... but you should've shown us the process of lubing thoroughly, how exactly did you lube, which places you did lube, we needed bigger picture of the process (
I accidentally didn't pull the camera in close enough for it. Effectively what I did was I lubed to the entire slide and the stabilization bar area.
@@greaterthanpie i assume you could do a separate video on showing this part somehow? ))
@@_SPG_ I'm actually going to be taking a look at the huntsman V2 tkl that just came out. It's a little down my list of projects but I will go over over it in that video
@@greaterthanpie those are also optical but i assume a bit different from Analogue ones... but i believe lubing should be 100% the same )
@@greaterthanpie i see they now add sound dampening foam in new Huntsman 2.. wonder if it would be possible to install the same in Analog version if one manages to get this foam separately as a sparepart )))
I have a Hunstman v2 full size, looks a bit newer then this one? Anyways, I much more prefer a white keyboard and razer doesnt make them, would it be possible to paint the front piece so its white? (makes the led's look better imo)
is the chroma blackwidow call if duty hot swap? (green switches)
Unfortunately only the huntsman line is at the moment
do you lube the opto-mec switches like regular ones? I am just afraid breaking the laser part
For the most part yes. The housing is a little weird so you don't have to take it apart to get to everything. So you can kind of skip the step where you would take it apart. All of the electronic bits are actually not even in the switch on this keyboard.
I really want to try these mods on my own v2 analog but I am a beginner at kb modding. Is there a more detailed video on lubing these switches and stabs? Will it reduce the wiggle of the keys?
is the huntsman mini switches compatible with huntsman v2 switches ? if you try to swap it ?
Hi,
When you say that the Huntsman series keyboards are hot swappable, do you think that we can install other optical switches like the ones from Gateron ?
Or just those from Razer ?
The razer ones has a completely different shape as far as I am aware.
Have you tried to put wrist wrest on? And most important, are the led working
Yes and Yes. I was able to put it back together and keep all of it's functionality
@@greaterthanpie thanks, wish me luck modding it
@@greaterthanpie i did it works perfectly fine
What im thinking of doing is painting the top metal board that the keyboard has to white and then do the mod u did. Is it a good idea?
It would probably look pretty cool. I don't know how a painted plate would sound though
@@greaterthanpie I think it doesnt affect how it sounds because I painted the huntsman te and well it didnt sound any different since your only painting the top metal board.
@@genshinplayer1608 are you able to take this metal top plate off when you take apart the keyboard? Mine is slightly bent in the corner from the shipping and I want to see if I can take the whole thing apart and bend it back into the flat shape.
@@ericpadinjarekuttu8696 yea, after u take the whole keyboard apart and take all the switches off, u unscrew the motherboard from the top plate and it should just fall off, and u should have assess to it from there.
do you know what springs are in this keyboard ?
i mean activation force
I'll straight up say it - there is no smoother switch, these analog opticals are the GOAT switch. Cherry switches don't even come close. In my opinion, this is the best keyboard moeny can buy. Yes, I make bold statements, but they are also true statements...
Is it possible to add foam between the pcb and top plate?
There is not much space between the plate and PCB you probably could though
is the led part of the switch so that you can just pop out the switch and replace it? my cat shorted out the leds on a few of the keys on my huntsman elite and id rather fix it than replace it
The LEDs are on the board and shine through the switch. That being said, once you have the switch off the LED doesn't look too hard to replace
Would this work for the non-analog version too?
@@TheOliverperryshorts yes it will as long as you are not using the clicky version
Frickin' lazers beams.
the metal plate for my huntsman analog is bent is there any way to take it apart and bend it back into the right shape? I can send you a picture if u want
There is if you take it down to the PCB you will see screws on the back of it. Those connect the plate to the PCB remove them and the plate should come right off
do I have to open the keyboard up to swap the switches out? or can you just pull them out while the keyboard is closed?
Unfortunately the way the switches are held in you will probably break them if you try to remove them from the top and the only way to get to the bottom is to take apart the case
@@greaterthanpie awesome thanks. I want to put the purples in the Analog. I bought a V2 with purples but the Analog build seems better and has the RGB but I like the purple switches. If only I can swap them out. I should be able to right?
@@kharkaroto9486 I have yet to test it but it should work. Both switches appear to have the exact same structure and triggering mechanism
by any chance do you know if the v1 is hot swappable as well?
Unfortunately, I do not. If you look at the back of the PCB you would be able to tell though. If there is no solder pads connected to the switching anyway, then it should be removable
@@greaterthanpie i saw another modder he said that all aptomechanical from razer so far are hot swap, thanks for the reply tho!
What do I need to remove the rubber feet without damaging them? Can I put them back on again after removal? Also how did you lube the stabs on the spacebar?
I used an electronics scraper it was in my electronics repair kit form ifix it. To reattach the rubber feet all you need to use is some spray adhesive on the back of the feet and they'll attach right back on.
Also to lube the stabs and space bar I simply was able to get at most of it from the backside of the PCB and I just lubed it up with 205 grade 0.
have you tried to remove the silicone dampener inside the v2 switches? and if so do they still work? Im planning to get a huntsman mini but I want to keep the clacky sound of the v1 so i was wondering if you can remove the silicone dampeners and the switch will still work
yes you can remove them but its very hard
Hello! Does anyone know if you can remove the media keys without tearing the keyboard apart?
I dropped yogurt on them and now they feel terrible.
Have you encountered any issues with this keyboard so far? out of the box had 2 issues. "M" key wasn't actuating properly, razer recommended to use compressed air which surprisingly works doesn't give much hope for durability. However I also found that there are stuck key issues e.g. "wasd" not registering. in my case I have identified "A", "D"(during COD cold war & genshin impact), and "enter"(no games). Reading on reddit seems like a known issues with multiple cases and no solution, only workarounds. Hoping that you have a solution for it that does not include turning off razer synapse since the keyboard main feature runs on it..
I actually have had similar issues with this keyboard before I modded it actually. The switches themselves are only held in with friction. So it's a little possible for them to shift around the first step I would do is give them all a good press don't push too hard but if you see any that look like they are slightly off the PCB try to press it back in. The compressed air works because if dust gets underneath the switch there is a spot that it can block the laser. This laser is really really tiny and it's not even inside the switch at all it's actually under the keyboard PCB. That being said I found that in razor synapse if you raise the actuation point from its lowest amount it got rid of most of the issues. That's sticking key issue was extremely annoying until I found that out.
@@greaterthanpie May I know what is your actuation point setting that you are using? I am currently using actuation point at 3.6mm and release point at 3.2mm for all keys.
Encountered during COD cold war with that settings where "D" did not depressed although I released the character fully (key came up also), and my character continued moving right until I pressed D again.
@@DevilishXZ I have it set to 3mm with no custom release point
@@DevilishXZ Synapse is to blame for all those issues with registering presses (((
@@_SPG_ do you own it also? have you tried it? its a work around, but seems like it might be working. I am giving it a few more days to confirm if it works for me.
Another thing i am trying is to change to quick effects for RGB instead of studio effects.
I have a huntsman V2 with optical purple switches and it sounds just like that. I want it loud and clicky like the OG blackwidow, this muted dampened sound just sounds like cheap shit to me.
Hello Pie, That was amazing, i have o freaking question, as a noob in lubin switches, it's posible to just lub the surface (taking of the keycaps) lubin the sides bars?
Thanks for everthing, just asking cause im afraid of damaged something. But good Lord the result sound was awesome.
I would lube the stabilizers bars and if you have a hobby syringe you can put a little bit of lube on the parts that slide. I might try that myself on my next Razer build.
@@greaterthanpie okay okay, sound good. dry lube i supposed
You won't believe me but I got this for 76 us dollars.I got it like 30 - 40 minutes away lol
nice
My last comment was posted after the first typing sound example. Now that I've finished the video, that still sounds terrible. I really wish they'd go back to making to Blackwidow how they did on 2016. They was the perfect keyboard all around.
the keyboard is real garbage. I regret buying it... a lot...