Hey guys! I thought I should give you an update on the Mods I did and some things I learned since then. Most of what I said on the video remains true, and I still use daily the keyboard I modded with no issues of any sort. But I would like to add that if you are considering doing these mods on your board maybe use something better then WD40. Not because wd40 will break your board but mostly because the "lubing" it does is minimal and it's not long lasting at all. I see a lot of people interested in the lubing more then any other mod because in custom keyboards with mechanical switches lubing with things like Krytox 205g0 is almost essential for great smoothness. But with these optical switches it's mostly not necessary since there is already very minimal contact inside the housing.
Dude Im walking this Video late but one thing that you HAVE TO DO IS NOT I REPEAT NOT USE NORMAL WD40, they aren't meant for opto mechanical switches. INSTED USE DRY LUBE WD40
@@el_teodoro just dont man not worth wasting your switch. If u cant build another keyboard, just sit with the keyuboad you have, dont waste this keybaord.
Hey! You are too kind :) I’m never quite satisfied with the end product for more then a couple of days ahah always focus way too much on the spots for improvement but it is always great when viewers focus on the good stuff to bring some balance! Hope to see you around :)
this is just the video i needed bro ure amazing, all my questions have been answered and ive been looking forever. all the materials are in my cart now!
So glad that I managed to have such a nice impact on your project man :) Good luck with it and if there is anything else you want to know just hit me up on twitter or here in the comments and I'll do my best to reply to you as soon as I see the question come in
I had a Huntsman before but I sold it after I joined mechanical keyboard community. I sometimes found these Huntsman modding guide like this but they are not even close to yours. Solid work even though the space bar need a little of tuning and lubing to remove the rattle but still. Good work man.
Thanks :) I still think it’s a useful guide even if these days I would change some of the advice but it still somewhat holds up since it’s supposed to be doable without any tools. Quite excited for all the keyboard content to come in the next couple of months my first group buy is coming in in the next 3-4 weeks 🤞🏼
I used my razer for some months already and I have always want to do some improvment for it but didnt have time or was just lazy. Yesterday I sat and made almost everything u show in video (skipped bandage thing) and daaaaamn it feels like totaly new and even more prestige keyboard than was. If u see it and still thinking about ur razer, dont wait, this is 100% worth work.
@@AidanChang-pf9tq You need a keycap puller and not a switch puller to remove the keycaps without hurting your fingers. A switch puller is something else entirely and is used to remove switches on hotswapable keyboards which the huntsman series is notn
This video deserves so much more like , views , comments💀told me everything and showed me everything I wanted to hear and even more!!! Thank you for the help and I'll be lubbing my razer huntsman te tomorrow:)
No sé si vayas a leer este comentario un poco raro, ya que es en español, pero solamente quiero agradecerte por ser mi guia en el modeo de este teclado, de hecho en estos momentos estoy escribiendo esto con mi razer huntsman TE totalmente modeado con la ayuda de este grandioso video, simplemente gracias, bro.
First comment. Great video man, I love this keyboard and I really wanted to make it better since i watched your previous video on it and I'm glad that you followed up with this ultimate guide. High quality content, you deserve more attention. Keep up the good work bro.
Honestly, don’t bother with that part. It was supposed to be trapped on the side between the switch and the PCB to minimize that side gap but the amount of time and work is way to much for how little difference it makes. The foam and the tightening of the stabilizers for every key are the best things you can do by far!
WD-40 will work but if you can get silicon-based lube or grease, it's more recommended. Dielectric grease namely from the Permatex brand, is thicker and recommended for stabilizers/stabs. Bending in the stabilizer wires is genius and I've only seen it recommended in this video and I never thought of doing it myself, so thank you man. This video really helped me out and I'd recommend it to anyone looking to mod a razer keyboard with optical switches, on any budget! 💯❤
Would you recommend putting new key caps on this keyboard or no? Also I had a question, did it take you some time to get use to typing on this keyboard because of the 40 g actuation?
Hey! So the keycap question is 100% up to you. The stock pbt keycaps are pretty great but are not super different visually from normal keycaps, maybe you want to show off a little more. When it comes to the weight it definitely is a little light. Too light for my taste, and after doing the mod where I tightened the stabilizers like I showed in the video it is definitely heavier and more enjoyable to me. Again this is personal preference but after doing this I don't find myself accidentally clicking keys anymore. Hope this helped :)
a couple things you could of done to make it even better is lubing the wires of the stabs and keys with something like krytox 205g0, as that would make the keys less rattly
Could not agree more with you! The two things I didn't do because I didn't have the tools is the stabilizer lubing with some krytox and making a case for the keyboard out of aluminum to make this feel much closer to the feel of a custom mech. Thanks for commenting!
Could you include a picture of the angle of bend of the swing arm cuz it's just a guessing game unless we can visually see the difference. Update: actually I did my entire keyboard you clip out the hook ends. Push in to where they're almost touching for three to five seconds test to see if there is slight almost unpreceptable friction on the inside housing as you were to roll them back towards normal position. If two tights and audible click on remote on sliding it off of housing then open it up slightly, and then clip it in.
Try it in a single switch first. You can’t bend it too much otherwise the switch will feel stuck and pinched by the wire. If you do a little you may not fully the improvement I talked about. From my experience just enough so that the wires point inwards a couple of degrees is good enough but like I said. Experiment with a couple off switches and go from there. Hopefully this helped!
Had to send my Huntsman Mini Silent Linear Red for replacement - had plenty of random ghosting and shortcut key activation. With the replacement Mini, I am going to try this out. In stock for the keyboard is rattly as hell even with acoustic foam. I've found that over 6 months, the factory lube has thinned or worn out (not sure what the technical term is) But I am NOT one bit pleased with the acoustic nature of my board after mods. I hope to follow your video soon.
Hey! Unfortunately the sound profile is one of the weakest points about this keyboard right up there with the stabilizers. Hope my video helps you out in some way!
Hi Carlos.. nice video on the mods for these new optical switch by Razer. Not many are sharing these many mods such as this video. And interesting too. I got 1 question that u highlight here, does the tightening up each stabilizer key really put a little resistance to the keys ? And how long does it last snce u last tighten it ? Im having problem of the keys being too soft that resting yr fingers on the keys are a big no when gaming. So was cnsidering to tighten the stabs as shown in the vid. Thank you in advance bro !
You said that you haven't tested these on the huntsman elite. I have the elite with the purple switches, and I was thinking about the foam and lube (dry lube not wd40 though). Do you think its a good idea to do any of the other mods on that keyboard?
With clicky switches the lubing past is not going to help you massively, but try it out on a couple of switches beforehand. The foam will work just fine
Bro you literally made me so happy because I don’t like 60 percent keyboards and with the new linear switches I was pretty bummed out but the huntsman tkl actuation is 40 and the mini 45 and the was 1.0 actuation point instead of 1.2 so I really wanted to fix my huntsman definitely going to do this as it sound awesome and proabably feels great
Hey! Honestly I don't think you can. That was one of my plans when I made this video but they have a very different design since they lack housings at all and clip directly to the keycaps and the aluminum plate on the keyboard has very very tiny spacing that would not fit any stabilizer that I've seen
This is some good advice! I am still hesitant using WD 40, but some other mods I did was bandaid mod my stabs on the larger keys and used some silicone grease I had lying around. I also did the foam mod as well. Are you positive the plastic of the keyboard wont degrade overtime? Regardless you earned a sub from me! Great video with useful tips!
Ok well if you see this I have a question, now that the razer huntsman v2 has come out would you say you still prefer the older modded huntsman or switch to the newer one?
Honestly if you are comfortable modding the old one I would say go for that. The new linear switches with all that silicon inside to dampen the sound are not for me, it ends up feeling muted and lifeless IMO
@@carlosribeiroo I was thinking the same thing about the new one, I just ordered the huntsman te and plan to mod it. Loved the video and was really helpful!
Generic foam that came with an Amazon purchase for something else. Really here the only thing you should be looking for is a dense foam. Any foam will work but the denser the better
Thanks for the fast reply! I hadn't even got to the end of the video! When you said anti static foam I thought it was a specific one you used. What's your opinion on O rings?
I've ordered some so I will try them on a small part of the board amd see how I feel about them. I've only had the board and hour and I'm already wanting to mod it!
Hello I’m not sure if you are still responding to comments but I’m also thinking about modding my huntsman te and I was wondering what was the best easy to take off the warranty sticker without destroying it.
Great video! very informative. I do have one question though. Is it possible to replace the switches entirely? for example, replace them with cherry mx switches or something similar?
Hey! Glad you enjoyed it :) Given how these switches work you can replace them but only with other razer optomechanical switches, I have done that on my mini for example. It came with razer purple clicky switches and I swapped them for red linears, but cherry MX style switches use an entirely different mechanism and are not supported at all
Hey I live in india and here the ptre wd40 is not available instead non PTFE one is present and I used it and it's real good How many months later should I do repeat this and after how many months later should I change the foam Very much thanks for this detailed modd You are the only guy modding razer hunstman te 😁
Hey! Thanks :) the foam should last forever. The lube maybe once a year if you want to make sure it’s always perfect but to be honest you probably don’t even need that much. And remember, less lube is always better, always try to use as little as possible
I think the regular huntsman is similar. Not 100% sure though. The huntsman elite is totally different so it is possible that the normal huntsman is different as well
Hey bro! How should I open the keyboard? It looks like there is some kind of connectors inside the keyboard but idk how to unplug it without destroying my Huntsman 😂 Nice video btw, good job 👍
Watch that part of the video again and make sure you remove all the screws like I showed, including the hidden one in the top left corner that is behind a sticker
@@carlosribeiroo I would do the foam definitely! Also I do think the keys are too light to press, but I am afraid I might cause some problems doing the tightening of the stabilisers, u got any tips for me? How tight is too tight?
Hey Carlos, i hope you're doing great, i did every mod just like you explained, even the band aid mod, and man it sounds miles different, so much better just like you said. Tightening the stabilizer was frustrating tho, took nearly 20 hours, thanks alot for your big help, you're the best
Hey! Glad to see some of you are as crazy as I am ahaha Ice cold water and some lotion is solid for your fingers after tightening the stabilizers, unless you found a smarter way then doing them with your fingers! I felt that pain for a couple of days! Enjoy your new keyboard, take care!
Hey! I think I have a pinned comment here on the video where it pretty much says that. In hindsight wd40 is not worth it for this use, and even though my board did not break because of it the improvements are little to nothing
What mod changes the sound the most here? I’m not too interested in taking all the switches out lol, but if it really helps that much maybe I’ll take the time.
@@carlosribeiroo thanks for the quick response! Just ordered my huntsman today, I’ll be looking for some foam to put in there then! PS, you just earned a new subscriber :)
You are very professional and talented. But the only thing I can tell you is that,you can try some of the pudding keycaps. Since they have very low rgb passthrough from the stock keycaps. I have seen the pudding keycaps on this looks so dope. I personally am picking those keycaps by havit. Hyperx does have premium ones but I really don’t like their branding on the spacebar on a Razer keyboard
Pudding caps aren’t really my style but they definitely works wonders if you looove rgb in this board :) I’m with you when I comes to the branding, the less more discreet branding the better!
Don't use WD-40. As the video says, it has an odor that can hang around for a while. It's also extremely thin, so it doesn't prevent the rattle that's caused by the stem and housing. And the Huntsman TE is an optical keyboard. Not mechanical. You can tell by the switches. They were Razer's new (at the time) red linear optical.
another idea for a mod video: actually swapping the "cheap" plastic housing for a metal one. Im trying it out myself right now with my Razer Huntsman TE and with that you will have the ultra custom modded huntsman te :D
I think building one is the only way to go I just don't have the know how and the materials, but I have talked to razer about this and they seemed open to this idea in the future soo maybe something official will happen!
I have those sound wall wedge paddings (for walls), can I use that as my foam?) You mentioned you use non conductive, however I do think that these wedges can get quite static?
Could something similar to this be done to the huntsman elite with the purple switches? Crucify me if you will but I enjoy clicky switches, however I do want to reduce the pinging if possible.
The Huntsman Elite is much more difficult to open up and because of the side LEDs you don't have space for foam inside and lubing the switches with won't fix the ping. I think most people that like clicky switches would also like tactile switches since they pretty much feel clicky but are much quieter and less pingy.
@@carlosribeiroo I figured as much, oh well, it's still worth it for me and it just looks so good and feels good to type on that I can overlook the pinging. Plus if I have headphones on it doesn't matter with way. Thanks for the reply! P.S. do you know if the razer pbt keycap upgrade set fits on the huntsman? I can't find a clear answer online
Yes it does fit! A couple of years ago I used the huntsman elite as my main keyboard and bought those keycaps and had no issues. They also fit most keyboard since they have a lot of various sizes for the bottom row keys
@@carlosribeiroo Awesome, I'll look into getting them eventually, ABS feels less premium than that keyboard should. Razer should ship the keyboard, at least the elite version, with their PBT caps but, oh well.
Maybe later this month I will make a follow up on this but overall everything has held up pretty well, the only thing that I now think it’s pretty useless is the lubing part, you are better of not doing it with these switches
Hey! Well if you want my advice, skip the wd40. It will not fuck your switches buuuuuut, it doesn’t help much. Yes you see a lot of talk about lubing online but 99% of it are around cherry mx switches (meaning mechanical switches From brands like gateron,cherry, jwk, and many more) but these opto mechanical switches from razer don’t make much contact inside by design, so lubing won’t help much. The foam and the stabilizers are by far the most useful mods in my video
the only reason I'm holding back with the lube its because back when I used to be into rubik's cubes we used to put luve into them but then they would dry out after a little bit and feel all nasty and slow. and so I'm not really confident with doing the same on my $100 keyboard
The best approach is to get some proper keyboard lube like krypton 205g0 and lube the spring with a brush. The effect of what I did with the wd40 is minimal improvement in the short term and no real problems until today. I would say the foam and the stabilizer mods are still the ones I recommend the most
@@carlosribeiroo yeah. thanks a lot, and watching this a couple more times a while back made me try and customize my razer te but the only mods I made to it where to foam it up tighten up the stabilizers.
@@carlosribeiroo ay man.. imma be honest.. I'm thinking of spray lubing my huntsman te rn, I got the wd40 and stuff but I legit just saw this video "th-cam.com/video/n6wn8jaiqxg/w-d-xo.html" I dont mean to promote it or anything but I'm starting to have my doubts on spray lubing this board
@@justlolguy hey! Thanks for reaching out before doing anything. My pinned comment on this video pretty much sums it all. Spray lubing and particularly spray lubing this board has little benefit and i would first do all the other mods and then re evaluate if it’s still something you would like to try
Keycaps you can use any other keycaps no problem. Stabilizers on the other hand it’s a different story since they are different then any other because of the mounting style on the keycaps
Thanks for the detailed tutorial, much appreciated! I would like to ask you something if you don't mind. I've added EVA foam to the base and the keyboard sounds better there's a slight rattle mainly from the spacebar and a bit from the bottom half of the keyboard, I think it's because there's still hollow space in the bottom. Do you think I should add more foam to the bottom half? Also, I'm thinking about bending the switches stabs but I don't want them to be snug I like the current feel of the switch, I just wanna improve the sound, what would you recommend to do? Thanks you once again
Alright. First of all thanks for all the compliments, glad the video helped you out. The foam in better if it’s even and not more on any side. The rattle from the space bar happens for different reasons and it is very difficult to make it go away completely because of how the space bar connects to the stabilizer. That you can do is lube the stabilizer wire ends with dielectric grease, something I didn’t do in this video just because o didn’t have any. You can also make sure the wire is straight and not krooked, use a glass surface to test for wire straightness. That should help but nothing will 100% fix the rattle. The other question I would not touch those stabs of you don’t want to mess with the feel. If you do what I did every key will be heavier so if you like the feel, stay away from doing that
@@carlosribeiroo Thank you very much for the reply! After reading what you wrote, I just thought about using my 1mm EVA foam to cut small pieces to align with the stabs holes and in theory, it should minimize vibrations and should be as a cushion to the stabs wires and hopefully reduce the rattle even more. But once again thank you for the detailed and fast reply, greatly appreciated man, stay awesome!
I have! On the huntsman mini I got a board with clicky purples and swapped them with reds and it was as straight forward as I showed in the video when I removed the switches to lube them
Question: How do you open the keyboard?? I know there is a secret screw underneath the usb connector, but I CANNOT lift the panel hiding the screw without damaging it!
You can’t. This uses razer a opto mechanical switches and only those will fit in the PCB sockets. It’s a completely different shape and mechanism from every cherry mx style switch. You can however swap opto mechanical switches between razer opto mechanical keyboards
Not Really, I simply press it down and spray it on the side of the spring, but just like I said on the video, the lubing part particularly with wd40 only offers minimal improvements at the cost of you smelling it for a while. The foam and the stabilizer mods are the real game changers for sure
The ping is improved for sure! Ideally go for smoothing not water based (like the wd 40 is) I am still using the keyboard I modded and the wd40 didn't destroy anything like you hear some people say online, but it definitely is very thin and tend to not last. Look for a spray lube that's is PTFE based for better more longer lasting results but nothing will work as good as painstakingly brush lubing the spring of every switch with something like Krytox 205g0
Sorry for asking many questions but I didn't know there was a hidden screw which was my bad I forgot so that little thing with the sliver wheel popped out I was able too put it back on by crewing it but from another person was suggested to actually crazy glue it back on I think its safe what are your thoughts and thanks in advance (also what keeps that back screw in place to the pcb so I think am okay)
There is a hidden screw behind a black sticker in the top left corner. See if you can still screw it in place. If you can’t I would not glue it maybe just put tighten the rest of the screws more and if you placed some foam inside make sure you don’t put too much other wise it won’t sit flush when closing it
@@carlosribeiroo I already got it man thanks for the help the screw is kept on to the pcb with adhesive so I just glued it and it worked if I didn’t do that then the board begins a little opening at the top making it not fully closed on the top left everything is fine now and thanks I should have dismantled it better but it’s fine since I just put crazy glue which will get it as stuck as adhesive so everything is smooth thanks
@@carlosribeiroo and also it’s because I didn’t remove the screw on the back left I popped it open like tayeh types and made sure that’s how people did it and I saw your video after you can see what I mean if you check when he opens the keyboard all you have to do is glue the silver top back on to the pcb and you can screw it making the board connected thanks for responding
@@carlosribeiroo I actually still have a problem if you see the way teahya opened his board i did the same and i pooped out the little gear lock i told you that i glued it yes but it for some reason sticks out do you think i can put it in without making the board leved and glue the gear lock socket back
It very minimally reduces movement between the switch and the PCB. Since the switches are only held in place by friction after removing them once they can sometimes very slightly move once you put them back in Like I said on the video, it is time consuming and only improves very slightly over not doing anything
I know this isn't the Razer Huntsman Elite, but I was thinking about doing these mods to my Huntsman Elite with purple switches. HOWEVER, I wanted to swap all the switches from purple to red. Will I need to solder anything?
You don’t need any solder to swap the switches. You will however need to be very careful opening up the huntsman ele since with all the side glow rgb there are a lot more things inside the case
Coming here with a question, is there a way to increase the actuation point or make the Shift click a bit harder beacuse I accidently press it all the time
Unfortunately no. You can tighten the side stabilizers on that switch as seen on the video but other than that there is no way to make shift harder to actuate accidentally
hey love the video, ive got a question im recently new to these modding keyboards stuff but ive got a razer huntsman mini the white version and i was wondering if can i change the optical switch so i can put the purple switch, just want the clicky experience rather than soft and quite once.
There really isn’t much to it. If you watch this video until the point where I remove de switches to lube them, you simple replace them with a purple switch and you are done. They fit in the same place and work with no further modifications without a problem
@@carlosribeiroo wow thank you so much I didn’t know if it was that easy I thought you’d have to make some changes if you switch optical switches so that means if I wanted to I can make it as a mechanical keyboard
The other mods are more impactful then the lube to be honest. I say do the foam first and then the tightning of the stabilizers and then the lube if you still want to improve it
you cant really open up each switch, you are limited to lubing it from the side without opening. Other then that 205g0 will probably have a even better result then wd40
Forget about most switch modding that you see with non opto mechanical switches. You can’t open the switches at all, that’s the reason why I went with a spray lube. Most of the modding that you can do is to the case and stabilizers
@@carlosribeiroo i just watching other optical switches lube and wandering is it possible to swap razer huntsman switches with gatheron opto mechanic? And what if we swap razer hunstman te spring with other harder spring? Can you make a video of it? I think it would be great if you explain it to us.
You can see it in the video, there is only one secret screw in the top left corner on the back side behind a sticker underneath the left raider feet to incline the keyboard. There are no screws underneath the pads on the bottom
@@carlosribeiroo so i dont know if this video was for a v1 full size since that is what i own but that one actually had 2 screws one hidden under the front pads each as well as the 18 i belive on top but i have ever since now reasembled it with the foam inside. thx for the help!
I'm a noob to this so I don't know any terms but I have a razer huntsman elite and I took out all the screws but I can't seem to get the first layer off(idk what it's called). Do you have any tips on how to get it off???
Forget about it the elite is a completely different beast. It does not open like the huntsman te or the mini. I opened mine last year and there is not much to do in there. It does not have the hollow space because of the extra leds and plastic.
Hi brother, how's it going? I have a Razer Huntsman Mini and out of nowhere the I, U, and P keys stopped working, but it's intermittent. Do you know what it could be?
Given how the switches work my best guess would be that there is some hair or debris that gets in the optical path. My advice, if you don’t want to take the board apart, would be some compressed air underneath those switches?
Unfortunately no. You can’t open them in any way without literally breaking them so I don’t think there is anything that you can do to remove the click
Hope you enjoy it! Keep in mind that you probably want to use the keyboard for at least a couple of weeks without any mods so that if you find any problem with the keyboard you will have no issues with returning it. You also will get used to it stock and appreciate the mods even more after you do them since you will have a clear before/after experience
Belo vídeo.. parabéns. Eu comprei um Huntsman mini ontem e estou com uma dúvida.. Nunca usei teclado layout inglês US e tenho o acento e o circunflexo na tecla de ESC… ao acento já cheguei…ao circunflexo já tentei de tudo…j a procurei informações e não há forma de conseguir usar. Por acaso sabe?
Obrigado :) Bem esse assuntos dos layouts tera de ser algo que tens de te adaptar, nao ha uma solucao perfeita. Quanto tens o teclado com o layout US no windows nao vais conseguir pontuar o texto como deve de ser quando escreves em portugues. Nao e como se conseguisses reprogramar certas teclas para fazerem os acentos que queres e como em ingles eles nao usam certos acentos o layout nao o suporta. Podes adicionar o layout portugues no windows e trocar usando o atalho (Win+Space) e depois basicamente usas o layout portugues com os acentos no sitio que ja deves saber de cor. Mesma coisa para o ç. Com algum habito consegues que escrever usando este atalho seja rapido o suficiente mas se mesmo assim nao estiveres satisfeito podes sempre criar macros para certas palavras ou para os acentos mas tal como ja estas a perceber nao ha uma solucao perfeita. A realidade e que escolheres teclados apenas olhando para os que tem layout em portugues pode ser muito limitante e para texto informal (ainda que me incomode ligeiramente) podes mandar umas gafes que se apanha bem pelo contexto (como deves ter reparado acima devo ter mandado algumas certamente)
Hey guys! I thought I should give you an update on the Mods I did and some things I learned since then.
Most of what I said on the video remains true, and I still use daily the keyboard I modded with no issues of any sort.
But I would like to add that if you are considering doing these mods on your board maybe use something better then WD40.
Not because wd40 will break your board but mostly because the "lubing" it does is minimal and it's not long lasting at all.
I see a lot of people interested in the lubing more then any other mod because in custom keyboards with mechanical switches lubing with things like Krytox 205g0 is almost essential for great smoothness. But with these optical switches it's mostly not necessary since there is already very minimal contact inside the housing.
Dude Im walking this Video late but one thing that you HAVE TO DO IS NOT I REPEAT NOT USE NORMAL WD40, they aren't meant for opto mechanical switches. INSTED USE DRY LUBE WD40
Carlos Ribeiro, which lube do you recommend then? Is dry ptfe WD40 great?
@@mermatier Bro dont even think about lubing optical switches!!! they use a lazer so if you mess with it the switch will spam
@@oze_ra2511 What do you recommend to make the keyboard sound more of a 'clack' ? xd
@@el_teodoro just dont man not worth wasting your switch. If u cant build another keyboard, just sit with the keyuboad you have, dont waste this keybaord.
I genuinely thought this had 500k views since the video was really professional. idk why youre so underrated. you are amazing!
😊thanks men you are pretty amazing as well :)
Same couldn’t have said it better
Thanks 😊
I love how with stock his hands look like theyre having a seizure but with modded he types so gently
Duuuude what a video, I enjoyed a lot. So much quality in edition and image. You must be so proud of this work. You deserve much more. :)
Hey! You are too kind :) I’m never quite satisfied with the end product for more then a couple of days ahah always focus way too much on the spots for improvement but it is always great when viewers focus on the good stuff to bring some balance! Hope to see you around :)
this is just the video i needed bro ure amazing, all my questions have been answered and ive been looking forever. all the materials are in my cart now!
So glad that I managed to have such a nice impact on your project man :)
Good luck with it and if there is anything else you want to know just hit me up on twitter or here in the comments and I'll do my best to reply to you as soon as I see the question come in
So underrated video. Good job man !!!
Thanks :) hopefully more people will stumble upon it in the future!
I lubed the stabilizers on each switch, and that completely removed the rattling. I'd recommend that before bending anything.
That’s a great advice! My main idea with the bending was to make the keys feel slightly heavier and the fact that it fixed the rattle was a bonus
I had a Huntsman before but I sold it after I joined mechanical keyboard community. I sometimes found these Huntsman modding guide like this but they are not even close to yours. Solid work even though the space bar need a little of tuning and lubing to remove the rattle but still. Good work man.
Thanks :) I still think it’s a useful guide even if these days I would change some of the advice but it still somewhat holds up since it’s supposed to be doable without any tools. Quite excited for all the keyboard content to come in the next couple of months my first group buy is coming in in the next 3-4 weeks 🤞🏼
First video I gave a like in a month, you deserve more views
Those exclusive likes are the best ones, thanks for the compliment :)
Your gimmick in shot is so amazing appreciate.
I used my razer for some months already and I have always want to do some improvment for it but didnt have time or was just lazy. Yesterday I sat and made almost everything u show in video (skipped bandage thing) and daaaaamn it feels like totaly new and even more prestige keyboard than was. If u see it and still thinking about ur razer, dont wait, this is 100% worth work.
Super underrated channel dude. Great job, this helps me a lot. I see that you spent a lot of time on this video.
Happy to help and glad you enjoyed the channel :)
@@carlosribeiroo Also, how can I remove the ping sound without lubing the switch?
The foam is the biggest helper there. It will massively reduce it but not completely remove it of course
@@carlosribeiroo And also, how can I pull out the keycaps without switch puller? It hurts my finger when pulling with no tools
@@AidanChang-pf9tq You need a keycap puller and not a switch puller to remove the keycaps without hurting your fingers. A switch puller is something else entirely and is used to remove switches on hotswapable keyboards which the huntsman series is notn
Wow your production quality is fantastic
Thanks 😊 really appreciate it!
you're going places, don't give up on youtube
Will do my best 🤓 thanks for the encouragement!
9:39 subscribed at this moment. Damn this guy knows something
🤓
Great work, exactly the video I was looking for! Thanks for all the info
Absolutely! Thanks for stopping by :)
Thank you for this video. I had so many questions, and this video answered all of them!
Happy to help :)
MOST underrated tech channel.
I mean i guess mine is too 🤷🏼♂️
Thanks for the compliment 🤓
This video deserves so much more like , views , comments💀told me everything and showed me everything I wanted to hear and even more!!! Thank you for the help and I'll be lubbing my razer huntsman te tomorrow:)
Happy to help! Good luck with your mods it will surely be a process!
Hey! How do you feel about the keyboard? Mine is arriving in 2 days. :)
No sé si vayas a leer este comentario un poco raro, ya que es en español, pero solamente quiero agradecerte por ser mi guia en el modeo de este teclado, de hecho en estos momentos estoy escribiendo esto con mi razer huntsman TE totalmente modeado con la ayuda de este grandioso video, simplemente gracias, bro.
:) muchas gracias por tu elogio! Enjoy your keyboard 🤓
First comment. Great video man, I love this keyboard and I really wanted to make it better since i watched your previous video on it and I'm glad that you followed up with this ultimate guide. High quality content, you deserve more attention. Keep up the good work bro.
Hey! Thanks for all the kind words
Glad you found it useful :)
Hope to see you around!
God video! I like this style, no music (i guess) nice audio, and good quality!
Glad you enjoyed it🤓
Yo this video was so helpful thanks for posting it! XD
Great video overall, but I didn't really understand how you put the band-aid in the switches.
Honestly, don’t bother with that part. It was supposed to be trapped on the side between the switch and the PCB to minimize that side gap but the amount of time and work is way to much for how little difference it makes. The foam and the tightening of the stabilizers for every key are the best things you can do by far!
@@carlosribeiroo oh ok, thanks!
Good video! Definitely underrated !!
Just got this keyboard for heavy gaming. Im glad I ran to your video now I can mode it as well.
Thanks!
Thanks 🤓 hope it serves you well!
WD-40 will work but if you can get silicon-based lube or grease, it's more recommended. Dielectric grease namely from the Permatex brand, is thicker and recommended for stabilizers/stabs. Bending in the stabilizer wires is genius and I've only seen it recommended in this video and I never thought of doing it myself, so thank you man. This video really helped me out and I'd recommend it to anyone looking to mod a razer keyboard with optical switches, on any budget! 💯❤
bruh the content is fire, this phrase is overrated but this channel is underrated
Ahaha thanks for that 🤓
Would you recommend putting new key caps on this keyboard or no? Also I had a question, did it take you some time to get use to typing on this keyboard because of the 40 g actuation?
Hey!
So the keycap question is 100% up to you. The stock pbt keycaps are pretty great but are not super different visually from normal keycaps, maybe you want to show off a little more.
When it comes to the weight it definitely is a little light. Too light for my taste, and after doing the mod where I tightened the stabilizers like I showed in the video it is definitely heavier and more enjoyable to me. Again this is personal preference but after doing this I don't find myself accidentally clicking keys anymore.
Hope this helped :)
@@carlosribeiroo it did tysm Carlos!
a couple things you could of done to make it even better is lubing the wires of the stabs and keys with something like krytox 205g0, as that would make the keys less rattly
Could not agree more with you! The two things I didn't do because I didn't have the tools is the stabilizer lubing with some krytox and making a case for the keyboard out of aluminum to make this feel much closer to the feel of a custom mech. Thanks for commenting!
@@carlosribeiroo No problem! If you have problem searching for keyboard related stuff, I can help!
I’ll keep that in mind for future videos ;)
Could you include a picture of the angle of bend of the swing arm cuz it's just a guessing game unless we can visually see the difference.
Update: actually I did my entire keyboard you clip out the hook ends. Push in to where they're almost touching for three to five seconds test to see if there is slight almost unpreceptable friction on the inside housing as you were to roll them back towards normal position. If two tights and audible click on remote on sliding it off of housing then open it up slightly, and then clip it in.
Try it in a single switch first. You can’t bend it too much otherwise the switch will feel stuck and pinched by the wire. If you do a little you may not fully the improvement I talked about. From my experience just enough so that the wires point inwards a couple of degrees is good enough but like I said. Experiment with a couple off switches and go from there. Hopefully this helped!
This video is edited as if you had 5mil subs. Amazing video.
Thanks Ryan :) I will try to keep this up maybe one day we’ll get up there!
@@carlosribeiroo lemme help you 💪💪
this man again heck yeah
Had to send my Huntsman Mini Silent Linear Red for replacement - had plenty of random ghosting and shortcut key activation. With the replacement Mini, I am going to try this out. In stock for the keyboard is rattly as hell even with acoustic foam. I've found that over 6 months, the factory lube has thinned or worn out (not sure what the technical term is) But I am NOT one bit pleased with the acoustic nature of my board after mods. I hope to follow your video soon.
Hey! Unfortunately the sound profile is one of the weakest points about this keyboard right up there with the stabilizers. Hope my video helps you out in some way!
amazing video man
Thanks 😊
Hi Carlos.. nice video on the mods for these new optical switch by Razer. Not many are sharing these many mods such as this video. And interesting too. I got 1 question that u highlight here, does the tightening up each stabilizer key really put a little resistance to the keys ? And how long does it last snce u last tighten it ?
Im having problem of the keys being too soft that resting yr fingers on the keys are a big no when gaming. So was cnsidering to tighten the stabs as shown in the vid.
Thank you in advance bro !
Hey! Thanks 😊
It increases the weight to press every key and it last pretty long. It has been 6 months and I still think they are as tight as day 1
i love this video im subbed!
I love your comment ❤️
10:25
why are you doxxing me bro????
You said that you haven't tested these on the huntsman elite. I have the elite with the purple switches, and I was thinking about the foam and lube (dry lube not wd40 though). Do you think its a good idea to do any of the other mods on that keyboard?
With clicky switches the lubing past is not going to help you massively, but try it out on a couple of switches beforehand. The foam will work just fine
Bro you literally made me so happy because I don’t like 60 percent keyboards and with the new linear switches I was pretty bummed out but the huntsman tkl actuation is 40 and the mini 45 and the was 1.0 actuation point instead of 1.2 so I really wanted to fix my huntsman definitely going to do this as it sound awesome and proabably feels great
Happy to help! Let know if you enjoy the mods on your board 🙂
Yes they come in clutch especially the foam
@@carlosribeiroo I have a question is the top left of the board like loose not like hope. Just you can see a little bit through as it isn’t shut
I didn’t understand the question 🤓
wow that sounds amazing
Hey, insane vid. Very helpful. Can you make a video on how to replace the stabilizers on the huntsmen TE?
Hey!
Honestly I don't think you can.
That was one of my plans when I made this video but they have a very different design since they lack housings at all and clip directly to the keycaps and the aluminum plate on the keyboard has very very tiny spacing that would not fit any stabilizer that I've seen
This is some good advice! I am still hesitant using WD 40, but some other mods I did was bandaid mod my stabs on the larger keys and used some silicone grease I had lying around. I also did the foam mod as well. Are you positive the plastic of the keyboard wont degrade overtime? Regardless you earned a sub from me! Great video with useful tips!
I have done this almost a year ago and used it daily and still don't see any signs of issues
Yeah, don’t use WD-40.
Ok well if you see this I have a question, now that the razer huntsman v2 has come out would you say you still prefer the older modded huntsman or switch to the newer one?
Honestly if you are comfortable modding the old one I would say go for that. The new linear switches with all that silicon inside to dampen the sound are not for me, it ends up feeling muted and lifeless IMO
@@carlosribeiroo I was thinking the same thing about the new one, I just ordered the huntsman te and plan to mod it. Loved the video and was really helpful!
Happy to help :)
Sounds amazing after the mods 👌 could you please let us know exactly which foam you used?
Generic foam that came with an Amazon purchase for something else. Really here the only thing you should be looking for is a dense foam. Any foam will work but the denser the better
Thanks for the fast reply! I hadn't even got to the end of the video! When you said anti static foam I thought it was a specific one you used. What's your opinion on O rings?
They are not for me. The keyboard will be quieter but it feels too mushy to me with a shorter key travel. It’s a preference thing though
I've ordered some so I will try them on a small part of the board amd see how I feel about them. I've only had the board and hour and I'm already wanting to mod it!
Know the feeling! Good luck with it! Just take it slow and experiment and it should be smooth sailing :)
Hello I’m not sure if you are still responding to comments but I’m also thinking about modding my huntsman te and I was wondering what was the best easy to take off the warranty sticker without destroying it.
Hey! Any pair of twizzers will work but don’t worry too much since its not really a warranty sticker, you are not voiding anything by removing it
Great video! very informative. I do have one question though. Is it possible to replace the switches entirely? for example, replace them with cherry mx switches or something similar?
Hey! Glad you enjoyed it :)
Given how these switches work you can replace them but only with other razer optomechanical switches, I have done that on my mini for example. It came with razer purple clicky switches and I swapped them for red linears, but cherry MX style switches use an entirely different mechanism and are not supported at all
@@carlosribeiroo Ok, thank you for the info 😁
Hey I live in india and here the ptre wd40 is not available instead non PTFE one is present and I used it and it's real good
How many months later should I do repeat this and after how many months later
should I change the foam
Very much thanks for this detailed modd
You are the only guy modding razer hunstman te 😁
Hey! Thanks :) the foam should last forever. The lube maybe once a year if you want to make sure it’s always perfect but to be honest you probably don’t even need that much. And remember, less lube is always better, always try to use as little as possible
This has me interested in trying this mod with my regular huntsman, if it is possible. 🤔
I think the regular huntsman is similar. Not 100% sure though. The huntsman elite is totally different so it is possible that the normal huntsman is different as well
i had no clue you could take apart the switches and stabilizers
Hey bro! How should I open the keyboard? It looks like there is some kind of connectors inside the keyboard but idk how to unplug it without destroying my Huntsman 😂
Nice video btw, good job 👍
Watch that part of the video again and make sure you remove all the screws like I showed, including the hidden one in the top left corner that is behind a sticker
@@carlosribeiroo Alright, thank you very much!
Thx for this vid! Which of the mods are actually worth doing tho?
The foam above everything else! I would rank them from best to not really worth it: foam, stabilizers, lube, “band aid”
@@carlosribeiroo I would do the foam definitely!
Also I do think the keys are too light to press, but I am afraid I might cause some problems doing the tightening of the stabilisers, u got any tips for me? How tight is too tight?
Looking forward to your reply
Try on a couple of keys first and see how you like it. You don’t need to tighten a lot. A little is enough. Just so that the wire is pointing inwards
@@carlosribeiroo what problems will occur if I had covered the cylindrical stands for the bigger keys?
Could I ask how you got the top left part open? It's the only part that doesn't have any screws, neither behind the rubber pad. Thanks in advance.
There is a sticker in the top left. Behind the leg of the keyboard if I’m not mistaken
Hey Carlos, i hope you're doing great, i did every mod just like you explained, even the band aid mod, and man it sounds miles different, so much better just like you said. Tightening the stabilizer was frustrating tho, took nearly 20 hours, thanks alot for your big help, you're the best
Hey! Glad to see some of you are as crazy as I am ahaha
Ice cold water and some lotion is solid for your fingers after tightening the stabilizers, unless you found a smarter way then doing them with your fingers! I felt that pain for a couple of days!
Enjoy your new keyboard, take care!
@@carlosribeiroo Have you guys tried pliers?
@@TheChrisDecember they should work great if you have ones that are the adequate size
I have a question tho, isn't the wd40 going to mess up the switches?
Hey! I think I have a pinned comment here on the video where it pretty much says that. In hindsight wd40 is not worth it for this use, and even though my board did not break because of it the improvements are little to nothing
What mod changes the sound the most here? I’m not too interested in taking all the switches out lol, but if it really helps that much maybe I’ll take the time.
The foam has the largest impact, is easy to do and fully reversible
@@carlosribeiroo thanks for the quick response! Just ordered my huntsman today, I’ll be looking for some foam to put in there then! PS, you just earned a new subscriber :)
You are very professional and talented.
But the only thing I can tell you is that,you can try some of the pudding keycaps.
Since they have very low rgb passthrough from the stock keycaps.
I have seen the pudding keycaps on this looks so dope.
I personally am picking those keycaps by havit.
Hyperx does have premium ones but I really don’t like their branding on the spacebar on a Razer keyboard
Pudding caps aren’t really my style but they definitely works wonders if you looove rgb in this board :) I’m with you when I comes to the branding, the less more discreet branding the better!
Thanks for the compliments as well :)
Don't use WD-40. As the video says, it has an odor that can hang around for a while. It's also extremely thin, so it doesn't prevent the rattle that's caused by the stem and housing. And the Huntsman TE is an optical keyboard. Not mechanical. You can tell by the switches. They were Razer's new (at the time) red linear optical.
another idea for a mod video: actually swapping the "cheap" plastic housing for a metal one. Im trying it out myself right now with my Razer Huntsman TE and with that you will have the ultra custom modded huntsman te :D
This is one of my biggest ideas that I just don’t have the means to make happen!
@@carlosribeiroo it would be the perfect crossover to a custom board and would eliminate the cheap gaming keyboard feel that comes with it
Could no agree more.
@@carlosribeiroo we just have to find/ build a custom case for it :D the easiest one would be a wooden one
I think building one is the only way to go I just don't have the know how and the materials, but I have talked to razer about this and they seemed open to this idea in the future soo maybe something official will happen!
I have those sound wall wedge paddings (for walls), can I use that as my foam?)
You mentioned you use non conductive, however I do think that these wedges can get quite static?
I think that should work quite well! Probably even better then my foam did
@@carlosribeiroo read also that the O-Rings works wonders. Will do a combo of both.
Ps loved the video
Thanks :)
Good luck with your modding!
Could something similar to this be done to the huntsman elite with the purple switches? Crucify me if you will but I enjoy clicky switches, however I do want to reduce the pinging if possible.
The Huntsman Elite is much more difficult to open up and because of the side LEDs you don't have space for foam inside and lubing the switches with won't fix the ping. I think most people that like clicky switches would also like tactile switches since they pretty much feel clicky but are much quieter and less pingy.
@@carlosribeiroo I figured as much, oh well, it's still worth it for me and it just looks so good and feels good to type on that I can overlook the pinging. Plus if I have headphones on it doesn't matter with way. Thanks for the reply!
P.S. do you know if the razer pbt keycap upgrade set fits on the huntsman? I can't find a clear answer online
Yes it does fit! A couple of years ago I used the huntsman elite as my main keyboard and bought those keycaps and had no issues. They also fit most keyboard since they have a lot of various sizes for the bottom row keys
@@carlosribeiroo Awesome, I'll look into getting them eventually, ABS feels less premium than that keyboard should. Razer should ship the keyboard, at least the elite version, with their PBT caps but, oh well.
So is ok to use wd 40 then (the regular on) plus love the mods bro
You should be fine :)
Thanks 😊 glad you liked it
After 3 days googling about, this is the first place someone show you can remove the switchs. omg.
Happy to help :)
Follow up video when?
Maybe later this month I will make a follow up on this but overall everything has held up pretty well, the only thing that I now think it’s pretty useless is the lubing part, you are better of not doing it with these switches
Will using regular wd 40 fuck up the switches or not these commments are getting me confused on that
Hey! Well if you want my advice, skip the wd40. It will not fuck your switches buuuuuut, it doesn’t help much. Yes you see a lot of talk about lubing online but 99% of it are around cherry mx switches (meaning mechanical switches From brands like gateron,cherry, jwk, and many more) but these opto mechanical switches from razer don’t make much contact inside by design, so lubing won’t help much. The foam and the stabilizers are by far the most useful mods in my video
@@carlosribeiroo thanks
You welcome :)
If you have soldering and desoldering tools, is it possible to use a normal MX-style switch in a Huntsman? Nobody out there seems to have an answer
It absolutely is not possible to do that. You have no contact pins to solder a normal switch on to the pcb
@@carlosribeiroo Well thanks for letting me know, time to buy a GMMK full-size PCB to put in my Huntsman for this to work
the only reason I'm holding back with the lube its because back when I used to be into rubik's cubes we used to put luve into them but then they would dry out after a little bit and feel all nasty and slow. and so I'm not really confident with doing the same on my $100 keyboard
The best approach is to get some proper keyboard lube like krypton 205g0 and lube the spring with a brush. The effect of what I did with the wd40 is minimal improvement in the short term and no real problems until today. I would say the foam and the stabilizer mods are still the ones I recommend the most
@@carlosribeiroo yeah. thanks a lot, and watching this a couple more times a while back made me try and customize my razer te but the only mods I made to it where to foam it up tighten up the stabilizers.
Glad I could help :)
@@carlosribeiroo ay man.. imma be honest.. I'm thinking of spray lubing my huntsman te rn, I got the wd40 and stuff but I legit just saw this video "th-cam.com/video/n6wn8jaiqxg/w-d-xo.html" I dont mean to promote it or anything but I'm starting to have my doubts on spray lubing this board
@@justlolguy hey! Thanks for reaching out before doing anything. My pinned comment on this video pretty much sums it all. Spray lubing and particularly spray lubing this board has little benefit and i would first do all the other mods and then re evaluate if it’s still something you would like to try
So I have the purple switches on the huntsman elite and I'm wondering if I can swap them for reds
If you have reds available somehow yes you can! I did that on a huntsman mini and it worked great
Can I just use other Stabilizers and Keycaps instead?? The Mountings are looking pretty similar to other keyboard.
Keycaps you can use any other keycaps no problem. Stabilizers on the other hand it’s a different story since they are different then any other because of the mounting style on the keycaps
how many days of waiting before using the keyboard?
Can you do the band-aid mod on the razer hutman mini with red switches
Well you can but the difference is minimal and it’s a lot of work
Oke thank you
I was fully expecting a wd40 sponsorship ad at the end of the video
Ahahah absolutely not sponsored by wd 40
@@carlosribeiroo damn 😔😂 great video though!
not sponsored by ......
4WD : ... "we're famous now"
Ahahahah 😅
Thanks for the detailed tutorial, much appreciated!
I would like to ask you something if you don't mind.
I've added EVA foam to the base and the keyboard sounds better there's a slight rattle mainly from the spacebar and a bit from the bottom half of the keyboard, I think it's because there's still hollow space in the bottom.
Do you think I should add more foam to the bottom half?
Also, I'm thinking about bending the switches stabs but I don't want them to be snug I like the current feel of the switch, I just wanna improve the sound, what would you recommend to do?
Thanks you once again
Alright. First of all thanks for all the compliments, glad the video helped you out.
The foam in better if it’s even and not more on any side. The rattle from the space bar happens for different reasons and it is very difficult to make it go away completely because of how the space bar connects to the stabilizer. That you can do is lube the stabilizer wire ends with dielectric grease, something I didn’t do in this video just because o didn’t have any. You can also make sure the wire is straight and not krooked, use a glass surface to test for wire straightness. That should help but nothing will 100% fix the rattle.
The other question I would not touch those stabs of you don’t want to mess with the feel. If you do what I did every key will be heavier so if you like the feel, stay away from doing that
@@carlosribeiroo Thank you very much for the reply!
After reading what you wrote, I just thought about using my 1mm EVA foam to cut small pieces to align with the stabs holes and in theory, it should minimize vibrations and should be as a cushion to the stabs wires and hopefully reduce the rattle even more.
But once again thank you for the detailed and fast reply, greatly appreciated man, stay awesome!
You welcome :) enjoy your keyboard!
has any of you swapped the switches on the Huntsman TE with the purple clicky switches,
I have! On the huntsman mini I got a board with clicky purples and swapped them with reds and it was as straight forward as I showed in the video when I removed the switches to lube them
Does WD-40 actually work? I heard it works for a month or two before breaking your switches
Well with these optical switches the improvement is minimal from day 1 but after having done it almost a year ago it hasn’t broken anything
Question: How do you open the keyboard?? I know there is a secret screw underneath the usb connector, but I CANNOT lift the panel hiding the screw without damaging it!
There’s a sticker covering the screw in back of the keyboard. You have to peel it first and then unscrew it
@@carlosribeiroo oh ok! Thank you so much for the quick reply! Amazing video btw, so well edited/filmed
Could I switch the clicky switches to like some cherry mx switches I want to make sure I can do that before buying switches
You can’t. This uses razer a opto mechanical switches and only those will fit in the PCB sockets. It’s a completely different shape and mechanism from every cherry mx style switch. You can however swap opto mechanical switches between razer opto mechanical keyboards
Do you have to cover some part of the switch before spraying wd40?
Not Really, I simply press it down and spray it on the side of the spring, but just like I said on the video, the lubing part particularly with wd40 only offers minimal improvements at the cost of you smelling it for a while. The foam and the stabilizer mods are the real game changers for sure
@@carlosribeiroo all I'm looking is to get rid of the ping noise
The ping is improved for sure! Ideally go for smoothing not water based (like the wd 40 is)
I am still using the keyboard I modded and the wd40 didn't destroy anything like you hear some people say online, but it definitely is very thin and tend to not last.
Look for a spray lube that's is PTFE based for better more longer lasting results but nothing will work as good as painstakingly brush lubing the spring of every switch with something like Krytox 205g0
@@carlosribeiroo I have a can of wd40 dry ptfe lube
That should do the trick :)
Sorry for asking many questions but I didn't know there was a hidden screw which was my bad I forgot so that little thing with the sliver wheel popped out I was able too put it back on by crewing it but from another person was suggested to actually crazy glue it back on I think its safe what are your thoughts and thanks in advance (also what keeps that back screw in place to the pcb so I think am okay)
There is a hidden screw behind a black sticker in the top left corner. See if you can still screw it in place. If you can’t I would not glue it maybe just put tighten the rest of the screws more and if you placed some foam inside make sure you don’t put too much other wise it won’t sit flush when closing it
@@carlosribeiroo I already got it man thanks for the help the screw is kept on to the pcb with adhesive so I just glued it and it worked if I didn’t do that then the board begins a little opening at the top making it not fully closed on the top left everything is fine now and thanks I should have dismantled it better but it’s fine since I just put crazy glue which will get it as stuck as adhesive so everything is smooth thanks
@@carlosribeiroo and also it’s because I didn’t remove the screw on the back left I popped it open like tayeh types and made sure that’s how people did it and I saw your video after you can see what I mean if you check when he opens the keyboard all you have to do is glue the silver top back on to the pcb and you can screw it making the board connected thanks for responding
Glad I could help :)
@@carlosribeiroo I actually still have a problem if you see the way teahya opened his board i did the same and i pooped out the little gear lock i told you that i glued it yes but it for some reason sticks out do you think i can put it in without making the board leved and glue the gear lock socket back
Hey Carlos. I did almost all the lube and the foam. Fine until then, but i can't seem to connect the pcb cable again. Help, regards from Portugal
What do you mean you can’t connect the PCB again? What happens when you plug in the cable?
but i still have 1 question i have like a silendrical metal nob at the top left of my keyboard do i get rid of it or keep it
There is a screw behind the keyboard. You have to remove a sticker to unscrew it
I didn't really understand what is supposed to do with the band-aid, can you try to explain to me, please?
It very minimally reduces movement between the switch and the PCB. Since the switches are only held in place by friction after removing them once they can sometimes very slightly move once you put them back in Like I said on the video, it is time consuming and only improves very slightly over not doing anything
@@carlosribeiroo Okayy, tysm
I know this isn't the Razer Huntsman Elite, but I was thinking about doing these mods to my Huntsman Elite with purple switches. HOWEVER, I wanted to swap all the switches from purple to red. Will I need to solder anything?
You don’t need any solder to swap the switches. You will however need to be very careful opening up the huntsman ele since with all the side glow rgb there are a lot more things inside the case
@@carlosribeiroo so all I will have to do is push the tabs through the board?
Yes that is basically it. Opening the keyboard is more difficult but removing the switches from the PCB will look exactly like you see in this video
@@carlosribeiroo thanks
Coming here with a question, is there a way to increase the actuation point or make the Shift click a bit harder beacuse I accidently press it all the time
Unfortunately no. You can tighten the side stabilizers on that switch as seen on the video but other than that there is no way to make shift harder to actuate accidentally
Thanks for the fast reply , dude, awesome job! Keep it up
Can you show how to put back the stabilizer without taking the whole keyboard apart?
You can’t reach the stabilizers without taking the keyboard apart
@@carlosribeiroo lol thank you for letting me. I suspected that I’m going to exchange my razer for a glorious
@@carlosribeiroo that should be a design flaw for those switches. Mine came off while changing key caps. Any ways thank you once again
hey love the video, ive got a question im recently new to these modding keyboards stuff but ive got a razer huntsman mini the white version and i was wondering if can i change the optical switch so i can put the purple switch, just want the clicky experience rather than soft and quite once.
You can! I did the opposite with a huntsman mini and had not problems!
@@carlosribeiroo thank you I appreciate the reply I was meaning to know if this was possible. Hey would you able to put up a video on how to do it?
There really isn’t much to it. If you watch this video until the point where I remove de switches to lube them, you simple replace them with a purple switch and you are done. They fit in the same place and work with no further modifications without a problem
@@carlosribeiroo wow thank you so much I didn’t know if it was that easy I thought you’d have to make some changes if you switch optical switches so that means if I wanted to I can make it as a mechanical keyboard
Can I use the wd-40 dry lube PTFE?
Yeah absolutely!
@@carlosribeiroo Will it do anything to the keyboard? Just wondering, I might buy a Hunstman TE and do this. Also nice video!
The other mods are more impactful then the lube to be honest. I say do the foam first and then the tightning of the stabilizers and then the lube if you still want to improve it
@@carlosribeiroo What foam do I use? Can I use just normal foam or does it have to be specific?
You can use normal foam
I plan to lube my huntsman te with krytox 205g0, what about that?
Ive seen 2 chanel using wd40, idk about 205g0 on this switch
you cant really open up each switch, you are limited to lubing it from the side without opening. Other then that 205g0 will probably have a even better result then wd40
@@carlosribeiroo thanks for your reply, ok then i will spend my time lubing my keyboard.
How about the spring?
Im new to this keyboard mod.
Forget about most switch modding that you see with non opto mechanical switches. You can’t open the switches at all, that’s the reason why I went with a spray lube. Most of the modding that you can do is to the case and stabilizers
Ok then, im just planning to reduce the sound on this keyboard.
Thankyou again for your guide
@@carlosribeiroo i just watching other optical switches lube and wandering is it possible to swap razer huntsman switches with gatheron opto mechanic?
And what if we swap razer hunstman te spring with other harder spring?
Can you make a video of it?
I think it would be great if you explain it to us.
The thing is, where do you open it up? Im too scared to remove the pads on the bottom
You can see it in the video, there is only one secret screw in the top left corner on the back side behind a sticker underneath the left raider feet to incline the keyboard. There are no screws underneath the pads on the bottom
@@carlosribeiroo so i dont know if this video was for a v1 full size since that is what i own but that one actually had 2 screws one hidden under the front pads each as well as the 18 i belive on top but i have ever since now reasembled it with the foam inside. thx for the help!
The guide was made with a huntsman te v1
Still, glad to help :)
I'm a noob to this so I don't know any terms but I have a razer huntsman elite and I took out all the screws but I can't seem to get the first layer off(idk what it's called). Do you have any tips on how to get it off???
Forget about it the elite is a completely different beast. It does not open like the huntsman te or the mini. I opened mine last year and there is not much to do in there. It does not have the hollow space because of the extra leds and plastic.
@@carlosribeiroo ah okay thank you for getting back :)
Absolutely, in one of my videos I say that the huntsman elite is a different beast and I do not recommend opening it
Absolutely!*
Do you need to desolder the switches on the razer huntsman te?
No you dont, they pop right out and right back in just like I showed in the video.
@@carlosribeiroo thank you, also you make really high quality content. Like and subscribed
Thanks :) Good luck with your mod if you end up pulling the trigger and going for it!
Do u have to re-solder the switches after removing them? I did it without thinking and now it doesn’t work
You don’t have to resolver anything they just pop off
@@carlosribeiroo When I put it off and put it back on it didn't work
Are they backwards? Did you break anything around the switch? They are simply plastic switches they don’t even have contact pins to solder
I'm here debating how much I want to do? This seems like A LOT of work for minimal pay off
Well if you want minimal work just do the foam, it will make the board sound more full and less hollow and you can get in and out in 30 min
can i change my purple switches with the red inear razer switches from the hunsman?
You absolutely can, I have done so for a future video with the huntsman mini :)
Add foam into keyboard it will be golden
Hi brother, how's it going? I have a Razer Huntsman Mini and out of nowhere the I, U, and P keys stopped working, but it's intermittent. Do you know what it could be?
Given how the switches work my best guess would be that there is some hair or debris that gets in the optical path. My advice, if you don’t want to take the board apart, would be some compressed air underneath those switches?
Is there any way to remove the click on purple switches? (other than changing them of course).
Unfortunately no. You can’t open them in any way without literally breaking them so I don’t think there is anything that you can do to remove the click
Searched your name on google and apparently you are a Nike Skateboarder. (+ im getting my huntsman te in the mail today and im so excited!!!)
Fingers crossed one day I’ll pop up when people search my name 🤓
Congrats on the new keyboard :)
@@carlosribeiroo :) im gonna do all the mods you did to mine.
Hope you enjoy it! Keep in mind that you probably want to use the keyboard for at least a couple of weeks without any mods so that if you find any problem with the keyboard you will have no issues with returning it. You also will get used to it stock and appreciate the mods even more after you do them since you will have a clear before/after experience
@@carlosribeiroo Okay, i'll wait a few weeks to find the problems!
im trying to take the keyboard apart but it doesn't get off around the escape key area
There is a hidden screw in the top left in the backside. There’s a sticker covering the screw hole that you have to remove before
@@carlosribeiroo i already have found out but thanks anyway
👍
Belo vídeo.. parabéns. Eu comprei um Huntsman mini ontem e estou com uma dúvida.. Nunca usei teclado layout inglês US e tenho o acento e o circunflexo na tecla de ESC… ao acento já cheguei…ao circunflexo já tentei de tudo…j a procurei informações e não há forma de conseguir usar. Por acaso sabe?
Obrigado :)
Bem esse assuntos dos layouts tera de ser algo que tens de te adaptar, nao ha uma solucao perfeita. Quanto tens o teclado com o layout US no windows nao vais conseguir pontuar o texto como deve de ser quando escreves em portugues. Nao e como se conseguisses reprogramar certas teclas para fazerem os acentos que queres e como em ingles eles nao usam certos acentos o layout nao o suporta. Podes adicionar o layout portugues no windows e trocar usando o atalho (Win+Space) e depois basicamente usas o layout portugues com os acentos no sitio que ja deves saber de cor. Mesma coisa para o ç. Com algum habito consegues que escrever usando este atalho seja rapido o suficiente mas se mesmo assim nao estiveres satisfeito podes sempre criar macros para certas palavras ou para os acentos mas tal como ja estas a perceber nao ha uma solucao perfeita. A realidade e que escolheres teclados apenas olhando para os que tem layout em portugues pode ser muito limitante e para texto informal (ainda que me incomode ligeiramente) podes mandar umas gafes que se apanha bem pelo contexto (como deves ter reparado acima devo ter mandado algumas certamente)
do i need to take out the switches, or can i spray it directly in the switch inside the pcb
You need to take them out otherwise it will make an absolute mess and it will be impossible to clean
@@carlosribeiroo thanks