Excellent informative demonstrational video with relevant toque settings. I will refer to your video when I service my 2023 MT 09. Thank you very much, really appreciated & hi from Australia.
So glad I found this video. I just bought a 2023 MT09 and inquired how much the first service costs. Over $400. To change oil. F-that. I'll be doing it myself.
I just bought my first MT09 (2014) and the 30tkm service costed 879€ here in Finland... and the local service shop that serviced my bike is small but the service man is very experienced... and yeah, that bike hasn't been service about at all.. Imported from Sweden without any service history. Gearbox bearing change incoming and now started the fight with the company that sold it to me.
One thing I would like to add for chain tension is to first find any tight spots. I know it's a new chain, but the older the chain, the more likely it is to have tight spots and you would want to check the slack at the tightest spot.
Good job! Tip: slide cardboard between the frame and the wheel when spraying/cleaning the chain and use that as your cleaning area. Keeps the kerosene off non-targeted areas and makes for an easy clean up. I'm about a few months out from my new bike which is this exact one. LOVE Yamaha.
Aren't you supposed to take the oil cap off, while draining the oil out ? Makes it easier for the air pressure to balance, and do a more thorough draining ?
Did you go a full 32 ft lbs on the drain plug? I just did my 600 mile service and torqued the drain bolt to the specified 32 ft lbs. I'm pretty sure it stripped or broke the threads on the oil pan. I think 32 ft lbs is too tight for this soft aluminum. Next time I'll do it by hand. I have a feeling I'll be replacing the oil pan at the next service or possibly sooner if it is leaking. 😢
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel I think that's a more normal range for an oil drain bolt. If I do have to replace the oil pan I believe I have to drop the headers also so I might as well install an aftermarket exhaust while I'm at it. I was going to stick with a stock exhaust but if I'm dropping the headers what the hell that's the hardest part.
Let the wheel spin and warm the chain up a bit before the wax, it soaks in a little better then let it completly cool before your next ride. Been using that brand for years though, great stuff. Pain to clean off rims though.
Nice, I use cardboard (as mentioned below) and also a bright orange 'dot' on masterlink so i can SEE when i've done a full rotation. (nail polish works great)
Been using cardboard for all of the chain cleaning/lubing services I’ve done since this video. A LOT less messy for sure! Trick was getting the right sized piece of cardboard so that it’s not awkward. Love the dot idea! Going to start using that going forward for sure
Arent chain measurements suppose to be from peak to peak when you move your chain up and down ? Its not from the swingarm to the chain’s static position… right?
Normally yes, but as I mentioned in the video, the owner’s manual for this bike specifies the measurement from the bottom of the chain guard (on the swingarm) down to the center of the chain. Technically it wasn’t the static position either because I pulled down on the chain when I took my measurement. I think it’s to make it easier for DIY maintenance. Not that the other way is much harder, but it takes the math out of it. I have a chain slack video I made a while ago on my old bike where I did it the way that you’re describing.
Isn't the chain supposed to be adjusted when the rear shock is loaded? I've read a lot about too many people driving around with chains that are too tight, because they adjust the tension of the chain without any load on the rear shock. If you sit on the bike, the chain tension will always change.
Thanks for the comment! A couple of things. First of all, if you are suggesting doing the chain adjustment on the side stand you are not at all incorrect, in fact this is what the manual calls for. The manual also clearly states that there be no weight placed on the bike during the measurements. Unlike suspension sag, chain slack is specified and measured using only the weight of the bike, not the weight of the bike plus the rider in full gear. However, when the bike is on a rear stand, the anchor points put pressure on the swing arm, which loads the rear shock. Therefore, the weight of the bike is still putting tension on the chain, and you can still get an accurate chain slack reading. I like using a rear stand because it’s easier to move the axle around, setting the adjustment/alignment is easier, and then I’m already set up to do a chain cleaning and lubing. Both ways (side stand or rear stand) are correct.
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel I have the shop manual, and you are correct. It specifies a chain slack measurement range of 36-41mm both on the side stand, and on a "maintenance stand". Only load on the shock should be the weight of the bike.
Depends on a few things. Most of the maintenance items state both a time-based interval and mileage-based interval. For example, oil changes should happen at least once every six months, but if you ride the bike more than 5000 km (3000 miles) in six months, you would have to change it every 5000 km. If you ride less than 5000 km, then you can get away with changing it once every six months. So you just go with the lesser interval. The only exceptions would be brake fluid (change every two years), coolant (change every three years), brake lines/hoses (change every four years), and a couple other examples where there is only a time-based interval, and no mileage-based interval. All of the intervals will be given in the maintenance section of the owner’s manual. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the comment William. I did notice the box on the owner’s manual for adjusting the fuel synchronization (I assume this is what you mean - setting the fuel injectors and such), but the procedure for it isn’t in the owner’s manual and I still have to order a service manual for the bike, as well as the tools required for this piece of maintenance. Not an excuse though… From my understanding, holding off on this may slightly impact the engine efficiency, but it won’t hurt the bike in any way. Surprisingly, the guys at the dealership didn’t mention it either, and seemed to think that I could do the entire first service myself, so I’m going to call tomorrow, ask some questions, and see about getting the procedure and/or scheduling a time to get it done at their shop. For this video, I figured I’d cover the basic maintenance that is shown in the owner’s manual to cover the essentials, but next time I’ll at least mention it, so others know to order a service manual or take their bike in to get this done. If I end up doing it myself, I will definitely put together another video highlighting the process. Thanks again, I really appreciate the feedback!
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel there is an excellent TH-cam video on how to do it. It was on an earlier MT-09 but the procedure is the same. The service manual is excellent, and pricy, but the video is adequate for that procedure.
@@Graimthu1 Perfect, thanks for the tip! I’m definitely going to order the service manual eventually as well. I have one for my wife’s bike and all my previous bikes, and they are an essential for DIY maintenance in my opinion.
I live in Canada, and I picked mine up at Canadian Tire in the specialty automotive tools section. For Canada: Princess Auto, Canadian Tire, Home Depot, any auto parts store (NAPA, Partsource, Auto Value, etc.) are all good options. For USA: Harbor Freight (they get a bad rap, but their stuff is fine), Home Depot, any local tool store, any parts store (O’Reilly Auto Parts, Advance Auto Parts, etc.). If no stores have it and they can’t order it for you (I would be very surprised) you can always resort to Amazon. Amazon has everything.
I noticed u took the oil cap at the end when refilling it, dont you supposed to take it at the beginning to make it easier for all the oil to drain out?
It is probably more correct to take the oil cap off when you drain the oil, yes. I suppose it would prevent any air pockets from forming and would aid with draining the oil. To be honest, the main reason that I didn’t take it off is that it didn’t cross my mind at the time!
No, because either way, you’re loading the swingarm with the same amount of weight. Instead of the point of contact being at the tire, it moves to the end of the swingarm. The swingarm will still flex and tension the chain approximately the same amount. Some people may disagree, but the science says otherwise. If you’re still unsure, set the chain slack on a stand and re-check it while the tire is on the ground.
I went through the parts department at my dealership for the oil filter and drain plug gasket. I’m sure you can get the part online somewhere like Partzilla as well
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel cool. thanks. also thanks for the videos and linking to canadian distributors of parts as well. can be a struggle finding what one needs some times or not paying 50 for a 5 dollar part.
Yep! All the torques for basic maintenance are in the owner’s manual. Shouldn’t need it yet, but I’m probably going to invest in a service manual in the next few months as well.
Yes, one complaint I have about the bike is how late the clutch engages. You can help by adding adjustable levers, and it does get a little better as the bike breaks in, but I've mostly just learned to adjust to the change.
@@aressimbamt0959 What are you trying to do when it’s in high rpm? If you’re accelerating too hard TCS will kick in and prevent tire slippage. If you really want to push it, I’d put your bike in TCS-1, that’s where I always keep it
No, as long as you use YamaLube / Yamaha genuine parts, keep a good maintenance record, and keep all your receipts/invoices for the parts you bought, the warranty stays valid. Still check with your dealer though as it may vary from place to place.
Talked to my dealer about this. It doesn’t void the warranty as long as I use Yamalube and Yamaha parts, and keep a service record. I’d double check with your dealer if you’re thinking about doing the same as it could vary region to region
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel here in malaysia, the manual book says 10000km for every service but the motor shop from authorize dealer says every 5000km so i dont know which one is true. or maybe the shop just want to gain more money by shorten the interval. what is your opinion?
The manual is recommending 10W40, 10W50, 15W40, 20W40, or 20W50. I don’t see why you couldn’t use 15W50, but since it’s not on the list you’d be taking a risk. Also, keep in mind that the 15 weight oil isn’t going to perform as well at below freezing temperatures. If that doesn’t matter, then it should be fine. Take a look at the diagram in the specifications part of the manual if you get a chance.
I had a bad experience with this Mt 09 when changing oil.I accidently damaged oil radiator which is near oil filter when trying to take of old oil filter with chain.Very bad engineering.
Totally agree with your 38mm (mid-point) logic. I will say that, since setting it in June, the chain has loosened off to about 37-38 mm. The way I see it, anywhere in the range is fine, and the closer to 36 that you set it, the longer it will be before you have to adjust again. Just me not wanting to do more work than I have to, hahah
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel exactly! The more tension you put on it the more the drive package life will be shortened. Nice video though keep on the good work! 😊👍
The struggle is real these days 😞 I pre-ordered mine, but I know some dealerships are still waiting for their stock to ship in, so you may still have some luck over the next few weeks or so. Hoping for the best for you!
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel I pre ordered mine as well about 10 weeks back...I was just told they've been pushed back till August. I'm in Michigan...not sure that means much.
@@Psycho-sw6eh Brutal… The worst part is (I know it is like this up here) a lot of the bikes have already arrived in North America from Japan. They’re just sitting in a sea-can at the port waiting to get on a truck, because the trucking companies don’t have enough drivers and trucks to get them to the dealerships. That was the story for the black MT-09 that I was supposed to get. It was just fortunate the blue one came in, otherwise I’d still be waiting as well…
I will be switching to full synthetic for the second oil change as per dealer’s recommendation. The bike doesn’t technically need it as it isn’t a high revving bike, but it definitely helps if you’re running near red line a lot of the time.
Haha, I was thinking the same thing! 🤣 Only reason I mentioned it is because the torque number was there in the manual. I guess you could use a combination wrench with the torque wrench and do the math to factor in the length of the other wrench, but nobody in their right mind is doing that for lock nuts on the slack adjusters… It also gives you a rough idea of about how hard you should torque it down. That way some dude doesn’t go ape s$&@ on them thinking they need to be tightened down as hard as the axle.
You are not wrong depending on whether you change the oil filter: -2.8 Liters WITHOUT oil filter change -3.2 Liters WITH oil filter change I change the oil filter at every oil change, so the first number is irrelevant to me.
Incorrect process on the chain. The adjusters only push the wheel assembly back....they do not push it forward. Plus the axle nut should be snug..not loose. The chain needs adequate slack. Never put a filter on dry. Pre-fill it and install. Done correctly you will loose only a few drops.
Thanks for the comment! True that the adjusters only push the wheel assembly back, which is why I had to push the wheel/axle forward manually and then retighten the adjusters when the chain was too tight. You can see that if you watch the video closely. I don’t see why the axle nut needs to be snug to adjust the slack as long as you tighten the axle nut down before the lock nuts on the adjusters. You just want to ensure that the adjusters don’t move when you tighten down the locknuts. Plus the manual only says to loosen the axle nut, and says nothing about keeping it snug. I understand the school of thought for pre-filling the oil filter, but again, the manual only says to pre-lubricate the O-ring, nothing about pre-filling the filter. You won’t harm the engine at all by not pre-filling, but you may overfill the oil if you do. Overfilling can whip the oil up into a froth, which cannot properly lubricate the engine which can and probably will cause damage. As long as your oil level is correct, how you install the oil filter doesn’t matter in my opinion. I’m sure the way that you do maintenance works, but there are many ways to do the job correctly.
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel "I don’t see why the axle nut needs to be snug" I agree, it doesn't have to be, but it helps. When you turn the adjusters, do them slowly and check the chain often. That way there will be no reason to push the wheel forward. Having the nut "snug" keeps the axle from moving...especially backwards away from the adjusters. And yes, you can install an oil filter dry....people do it all the time. But I hate running an engine with zero oil pressure and flow...even if its only for a few seconds. If you add oil per the correct capacity, then you won't over fill. My bike takes 3 qts....so some goes into the filter and the rest goes into the crankcase. Take care.
@@spacecoastz4026 you do realize the axle can’t “move backwards” cuz it’s, um, well- being held by the chain??? 😂 And prefilling the oil filter has been debunked a zillion times. It’s a myth.
@@tg8150 Of course I do. What I said is that the adjusters do not push the axle FORWARD, they only pull it back. You need to read more carefully. My point is that you need to maintain some forward pressure on the adjusters, or the axle can move slightly backwards as you tighten the axle nut, resulting in an excessive tight chain. I've only been doing this for 50 years. In regards to the oil filter, it's NEVER a good idea to install a filter dry. One of the reasons filters have an anti-drain valve inside of them. Do what you want to your own vehicles, but zero oil flow and pressure is never a good thing and completely unnecessary during an oil change. There is nothing to "debunk"...you either have oil pressure or you don't. Let me know if you are still confused.
Please dont tell me you just put that oil filter back on dry big NO NO need to fill it to soak in the paper or your starting your bike dry on the top end for a few seconds not good other than that spot on Pal
Are you able to provide documentation from Yamaha that states the oil filter needs to be soaked in oil first, because that step is not listed in the owners manual for the MT09.
@@empty_inside14 oil flow will have to pump and fill the oil filter before passing oil up into the head as it will have no oil pressure untill it does. wether it's in there or not it's a must do with 99% of engines any mechanic will tell you it's a good thing to do on any bike or car
@@PureEvolution that’s not what the mechanics around my way say, they say that with newer engines it is not necessary and it’s how so many over fill the oil and that causes way more harm.
@@empty_inside14 it's phisics if there's a gap in the oil line you will have low oil pressure yes newer engines helps but still.does unnecessary wear on parts that a simple thing to do can prevent it
@@PureEvolution ok it’s never been done on my bike but hey I’m sure 100,000 kms worth of riding probably isn’t enough for it to show unnecessary wear and tear.
Nice video, this will be helpful for future reference.
Just picked up a 2023 MT09, super excited!
Awesome! Congrats on the new bike
Excellent informative demonstrational video with relevant toque settings. I will refer to your video when I service my 2023 MT 09. Thank you very much, really appreciated & hi from Australia.
Thank you! I’m glad it’s been helpful
So glad I found this video. I just bought a 2023 MT09 and inquired how much the first service costs. Over $400. To change oil. F-that. I'll be doing it myself.
I just bought my first MT09 (2014) and the 30tkm service costed 879€ here in Finland... and the local service shop that serviced my bike is small but the service man is very experienced... and yeah, that bike hasn't been service about at all.. Imported from Sweden without any service history. Gearbox bearing change incoming and now started the fight with the company that sold it to me.
One thing I would like to add for chain tension is to first find any tight spots. I know it's a new chain, but the older the chain, the more likely it is to have tight spots and you would want to check the slack at the tightest spot.
Good job! Tip: slide cardboard between the frame and the wheel when spraying/cleaning the chain and use that as your cleaning area. Keeps the kerosene off non-targeted areas and makes for an easy clean up. I'm about a few months out from my new bike which is this exact one. LOVE Yamaha.
Thanks! This bike is so much fun 🤙🏻
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel Ride safe my guy! ✌🏾
Aren't you supposed to take the oil cap off, while draining the oil out ? Makes it easier for the air pressure to balance, and do a more thorough draining ?
I’m glad to see your clips and nice pick on your bike .
Thank you!
Did you go a full 32 ft lbs on the drain plug? I just did my 600 mile service and torqued the drain bolt to the specified 32 ft lbs. I'm pretty sure it stripped or broke the threads on the oil pan. I think 32 ft lbs is too tight for this soft aluminum. Next time I'll do it by hand. I have a feeling I'll be replacing the oil pan at the next service or possibly sooner if it is leaking. 😢
Sorry to hear that… Yeah, I went the full 32 on my first service, but going forward, I’ll probably do more like 17-20 ft-lbs.
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel I think that's a more normal range for an oil drain bolt. If I do have to replace the oil pan I believe I have to drop the headers also so I might as well install an aftermarket exhaust while I'm at it. I was going to stick with a stock exhaust but if I'm dropping the headers what the hell that's the hardest part.
43Nm is nuts for that application! 20Nm would be more appropriate...
Let the wheel spin and warm the chain up a bit before the wax, it soaks in a little better then let it completly cool before your next ride. Been using that brand for years though, great stuff. Pain to clean off rims though.
Nice, I use cardboard (as mentioned below) and also a bright orange 'dot' on masterlink so i can SEE when i've done a full rotation. (nail polish works great)
Been using cardboard for all of the chain cleaning/lubing services I’ve done since this video. A LOT less messy for sure! Trick was getting the right sized piece of cardboard so that it’s not awkward.
Love the dot idea! Going to start using that going forward for sure
at 7:04 if you had another spanner you could have stopped the adjuster Bolt from tuning
Arent chain measurements suppose to be from peak to peak when you move your chain up and down ? Its not from the swingarm to the chain’s static position… right?
Normally yes, but as I mentioned in the video, the owner’s manual for this bike specifies the measurement from the bottom of the chain guard (on the swingarm) down to the center of the chain. Technically it wasn’t the static position either because I pulled down on the chain when I took my measurement.
I think it’s to make it easier for DIY maintenance. Not that the other way is much harder, but it takes the math out of it.
I have a chain slack video I made a while ago on my old bike where I did it the way that you’re describing.
@@user-hf8ie8mf3n Interesting. What slack range were you using then?
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel awesome thanks for clearing it up, I’m hoping to DIY chain adjustment soon on my bike this helped clarify some
@@user-hf8ie8mf3n I agree notice this on mine too i know do it to around the slakest range from the manual seems to be just about right
Isn't the chain supposed to be adjusted when the rear shock is loaded? I've read a lot about too many people driving around with chains that are too tight, because they adjust the tension of the chain without any load on the rear shock. If you sit on the bike, the chain tension will always change.
Thanks for the comment! A couple of things. First of all, if you are suggesting doing the chain adjustment on the side stand you are not at all incorrect, in fact this is what the manual calls for. The manual also clearly states that there be no weight placed on the bike during the measurements. Unlike suspension sag, chain slack is specified and measured using only the weight of the bike, not the weight of the bike plus the rider in full gear.
However, when the bike is on a rear stand, the anchor points put pressure on the swing arm, which loads the rear shock. Therefore, the weight of the bike is still putting tension on the chain, and you can still get an accurate chain slack reading. I like using a rear stand because it’s easier to move the axle around, setting the adjustment/alignment is easier, and then I’m already set up to do a chain cleaning and lubing. Both ways (side stand or rear stand) are correct.
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel I have the shop manual, and you are correct. It specifies a chain slack measurement range of 36-41mm both on the side stand, and on a "maintenance stand". Only load on the shock should be the weight of the bike.
I know nothing about motorcycles, how many times a year should you let it get checked out?
Depends on a few things. Most of the maintenance items state both a time-based interval and mileage-based interval.
For example, oil changes should happen at least once every six months, but if you ride the bike more than 5000 km (3000 miles) in six months, you would have to change it every 5000 km. If you ride less than 5000 km, then you can get away with changing it once every six months. So you just go with the lesser interval.
The only exceptions would be brake fluid (change every two years), coolant (change every three years), brake lines/hoses (change every four years), and a couple other examples where there is only a time-based interval, and no mileage-based interval.
All of the intervals will be given in the maintenance section of the owner’s manual. Hope that helps.
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel Thanks, man, I appreciate you taking the time to give me a detailed answer!
Thanks! from another Albertan!
The oil filter seal is pre lubed with grease. No need for the addition of oil. Your chain is too tight.
Have the same bike, and it’s the same way 36-41mm or 1.42-1.61 in per the owners manual. Why do you say it’s too tight?
@@Nutmilk157 chain is to tight
I want to ask you how many degrees is the engine temperature after changing the oil, after driving
Adjusting the throttle bodies is part of "first service" and my bike definitely needed that service. Why didn't you do it?
Thanks for the comment William. I did notice the box on the owner’s manual for adjusting the fuel synchronization (I assume this is what you mean - setting the fuel injectors and such), but the procedure for it isn’t in the owner’s manual and I still have to order a service manual for the bike, as well as the tools required for this piece of maintenance. Not an excuse though…
From my understanding, holding off on this may slightly impact the engine efficiency, but it won’t hurt the bike in any way. Surprisingly, the guys at the dealership didn’t mention it either, and seemed to think that I could do the entire first service myself, so I’m going to call tomorrow, ask some questions, and see about getting the procedure and/or scheduling a time to get it done at their shop.
For this video, I figured I’d cover the basic maintenance that is shown in the owner’s manual to cover the essentials, but next time I’ll at least mention it, so others know to order a service manual or take their bike in to get this done.
If I end up doing it myself, I will definitely put together another video highlighting the process. Thanks again, I really appreciate the feedback!
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel there is an excellent TH-cam video on how to do it. It was on an earlier MT-09 but the procedure is the same. The service manual is excellent, and pricy, but the video is adequate for that procedure.
@@Graimthu1 Perfect, thanks for the tip! I’m definitely going to order the service manual eventually as well. I have one for my wife’s bike and all my previous bikes, and they are an essential for DIY maintenance in my opinion.
Do you have the link? ❤@@Graimthu1
Where can I buy the 32 mm deep socket for the rear axle nut? I’ve looked in different local stores but haven’t been able to find it
I live in Canada, and I picked mine up at Canadian Tire in the specialty automotive tools section.
For Canada: Princess Auto, Canadian Tire, Home Depot, any auto parts store (NAPA, Partsource, Auto Value, etc.) are all good options.
For USA: Harbor Freight (they get a bad rap, but their stuff is fine), Home Depot, any local tool store, any parts store (O’Reilly Auto Parts, Advance Auto Parts, etc.).
If no stores have it and they can’t order it for you (I would be very surprised) you can always resort to Amazon. Amazon has everything.
I noticed u took the oil cap at the end when refilling it, dont you supposed to take it at the beginning to make it easier for all the oil to drain out?
It is probably more correct to take the oil cap off when you drain the oil, yes. I suppose it would prevent any air pockets from forming and would aid with draining the oil.
To be honest, the main reason that I didn’t take it off is that it didn’t cross my mind at the time!
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel 😅 true i tend to forget stuff too
Does chain slack measurement differ when on paddock stand vs on floor sitting vertically (not on kickstand obviously)?
No, because either way, you’re loading the swingarm with the same amount of weight. Instead of the point of contact being at the tire, it moves to the end of the swingarm.
The swingarm will still flex and tension the chain approximately the same amount. Some people may disagree, but the science says otherwise.
If you’re still unsure, set the chain slack on a stand and re-check it while the tire is on the ground.
Do you know the motorcycle stand and spools you have?
Venom front and rear stands off of Amazon. I left a link in the description
Where did you get the replacement drain plug gaskets?
I went through the parts department at my dealership for the oil filter and drain plug gasket.
I’m sure you can get the part online somewhere like Partzilla as well
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel cool. thanks. also thanks for the videos and linking to canadian distributors of parts as well. can be a struggle finding what one needs some times or not paying 50 for a 5 dollar part.
I have the same bike as you! Wondering what windscreen that is I dig it.
It’s the Yamaha Genuine Sport Windscreen. I have a link to the Yamaha website with the description and part number in the video description 👌🏻
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel thank you so much!
Where did you see the torque numbers for MT09? Is it written in the manual?
Yep! All the torques for basic maintenance are in the owner’s manual.
Shouldn’t need it yet, but I’m probably going to invest in a service manual in the next few months as well.
yes, spray directly on your exhaust :P seems smart
Now while doing the service your self. And using the required yamalube oil and Yamaha filter does this void your warranty with yamalube advantage
No, as long as you can prove that you used Yamaha products at the right intervals, the warranty stays valid.
Im not sure. In Germany yamaha said it has to maintinance by a autorisiert yahama partner
Good video but alway better to drain the oil with oil cap off
is your clucth to high.. i can barley reach it.. it start going almost at the end 5mm before end of clucth
Yes, one complaint I have about the bike is how late the clutch engages. You can help by adding adjustable levers, and it does get a little better as the bike breaks in, but I've mostly just learned to adjust to the change.
It caught me off guard so much when I first bought the bike though… If you watch my first ride video, my first couple shifts were pretty bad 🤣
i fix it today with that little circle on lever its better now.. bike is great be safe
mine also in mode 1 tcs2 on full throttle cant get above 5 6 7 rpm.. or need to push it hared.. it goes but dont get in high rpm i m confused
@@aressimbamt0959 What are you trying to do when it’s in high rpm? If you’re accelerating too hard TCS will kick in and prevent tire slippage. If you really want to push it, I’d put your bike in TCS-1, that’s where I always keep it
Does it void your warranty if you service yourself?
No, as long as you use YamaLube / Yamaha genuine parts, keep a good maintenance record, and keep all your receipts/invoices for the parts you bought, the warranty stays valid.
Still check with your dealer though as it may vary from place to place.
What about invalidating the warranty
Talked to my dealer about this. It doesn’t void the warranty as long as I use Yamalube and Yamaha parts, and keep a service record.
I’d double check with your dealer if you’re thinking about doing the same as it could vary region to region
whats the interval every service?
It’s all in the owner’s manual. Intervals are different for different types of maintenance.
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel here in malaysia, the manual book says 10000km for every service but the motor shop from authorize dealer says every 5000km so i dont know which one is true. or maybe the shop just want to gain more money by shorten the interval. what is your opinion?
Es malo usar un aceite 15w50 para mi mt09?
The manual is recommending 10W40, 10W50, 15W40, 20W40, or 20W50.
I don’t see why you couldn’t use 15W50, but since it’s not on the list you’d be taking a risk.
Also, keep in mind that the 15 weight oil isn’t going to perform as well at below freezing temperatures. If that doesn’t matter, then it should be fine. Take a look at the diagram in the specifications part of the manual if you get a chance.
how many bttle oil to fill up mt-09?
One 4 liter (1 gallon) bottle is more than enough.
But make sure you do not overfill or you may damage your motorcycle. Read your owner’s manual.
I had a bad experience with this Mt 09 when changing oil.I accidently damaged oil radiator which is near oil filter when trying to take of old oil filter with chain.Very bad engineering.
Yes, absolutely. I noticed this as soon as I started my oil change. Have to be very careful with this bike
Replace bad engineering with bad engineer... use a filter cap socket.
The chain is set too stiff as you did. 36 to 41 I wouldput to 38mm to take either the minimum nor the maximum.
Totally agree with your 38mm (mid-point) logic. I will say that, since setting it in June, the chain has loosened off to about 37-38 mm.
The way I see it, anywhere in the range is fine, and the closer to 36 that you set it, the longer it will be before you have to adjust again. Just me not wanting to do more work than I have to, hahah
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel exactly! The more tension you put on it the more the drive package life will be shortened.
Nice video though keep on the good work! 😊👍
I would love to do a first service...but can't even get my hands on this bike.
The struggle is real these days 😞 I pre-ordered mine, but I know some dealerships are still waiting for their stock to ship in, so you may still have some luck over the next few weeks or so. Hoping for the best for you!
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel Thanx Bro
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel I pre ordered mine as well about 10 weeks back...I was just told they've been pushed back till August. I'm in Michigan...not sure that means much.
@@Psycho-sw6eh Brutal… The worst part is (I know it is like this up here) a lot of the bikes have already arrived in North America from Japan. They’re just sitting in a sea-can at the port waiting to get on a truck, because the trucking companies don’t have enough drivers and trucks to get them to the dealerships.
That was the story for the black MT-09 that I was supposed to get. It was just fortunate the blue one came in, otherwise I’d still be waiting as well…
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel It's just nuts. Glad you were able to score one. I'll tune in from time to time and live vicariously through you.
Nice 😊
NICE！！！
you might want to switch to full synthetic oil…
I will be switching to full synthetic for the second oil change as per dealer’s recommendation. The bike doesn’t technically need it as it isn’t a high revving bike, but it definitely helps if you’re running near red line a lot of the time.
At what mileage are you planning to do your second oil change?
02:08 thats what she said
Why do they tell you the torque for the locknuts on the adjusters, when you cant get a torque wrench in there?🙈
Haha, I was thinking the same thing! 🤣 Only reason I mentioned it is because the torque number was there in the manual.
I guess you could use a combination wrench with the torque wrench and do the math to factor in the length of the other wrench, but nobody in their right mind is doing that for lock nuts on the slack adjusters…
It also gives you a rough idea of about how hard you should torque it down. That way some dude doesn’t go ape s$&@ on them thinking they need to be tightened down as hard as the axle.
U should buy oil filter wrench there are correct torque for that not just hand tight ur da the only one isee do that🤣
maybe on youtube, but ive never met anyone that doesnt hand tighten it. ive never actually even heard of a torque oil filter wrench
Good video about pre-filling oil filters:
th-cam.com/video/939WTeorBnQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4owICZam13caZkK0&t=552
New sub ! Liked 😀👍👍🙏
Thank you!
Hmmm. 2,7 litres
You are not wrong depending on whether you change the oil filter:
-2.8 Liters WITHOUT oil filter change
-3.2 Liters WITH oil filter change
I change the oil filter at every oil change, so the first number is irrelevant to me.
Incorrect process on the chain. The adjusters only push the wheel assembly back....they do not push it forward. Plus the axle nut should be snug..not loose. The chain needs adequate slack.
Never put a filter on dry. Pre-fill it and install. Done correctly you will loose only a few drops.
Thanks for the comment!
True that the adjusters only push the wheel assembly back, which is why I had to push the wheel/axle forward manually and then retighten the adjusters when the chain was too tight. You can see that if you watch the video closely.
I don’t see why the axle nut needs to be snug to adjust the slack as long as you tighten the axle nut down before the lock nuts on the adjusters. You just want to ensure that the adjusters don’t move when you tighten down the locknuts. Plus the manual only says to loosen the axle nut, and says nothing about keeping it snug.
I understand the school of thought for pre-filling the oil filter, but again, the manual only says to pre-lubricate the O-ring, nothing about pre-filling the filter. You won’t harm the engine at all by not pre-filling, but you may overfill the oil if you do. Overfilling can whip the oil up into a froth, which cannot properly lubricate the engine which can and probably will cause damage. As long as your oil level is correct, how you install the oil filter doesn’t matter in my opinion.
I’m sure the way that you do maintenance works, but there are many ways to do the job correctly.
@@FullThrottleFreedomChannel "I don’t see why the axle nut needs to be snug" I agree, it doesn't have to be, but it helps. When you turn the adjusters, do them slowly and check the chain often. That way there will be no reason to push the wheel forward. Having the nut "snug" keeps the axle from moving...especially backwards away from the adjusters.
And yes, you can install an oil filter dry....people do it all the time. But I hate running an engine with zero oil pressure and flow...even if its only for a few seconds. If you add oil per the correct capacity, then you won't over fill. My bike takes 3 qts....so some goes into the filter and the rest goes into the crankcase. Take care.
@@spacecoastz4026 you do realize the axle can’t “move backwards” cuz it’s, um, well- being held by the chain??? 😂
And prefilling the oil filter has been debunked a zillion times. It’s a myth.
@@tg8150 Of course I do. What I said is that the adjusters do not push the axle FORWARD, they only pull it back. You need to read more carefully. My point is that you need to maintain some forward pressure on the adjusters, or the axle can move slightly backwards as you tighten the axle nut, resulting in an excessive tight chain. I've only been doing this for 50 years.
In regards to the oil filter, it's NEVER a good idea to install a filter dry. One of the reasons filters have an anti-drain valve inside of them. Do what you want to your own vehicles, but zero oil flow and pressure is never a good thing and completely unnecessary during an oil change. There is nothing to "debunk"...you either have oil pressure or you don't. Let me know if you are still confused.
@Spacecoastz, Thanks for your comments here. I learned something.
Please dont tell me you just put that oil filter back on dry big NO NO need to fill it to soak in the paper or your starting your bike dry on the top end for a few seconds not good other than that spot on Pal
Are you able to provide documentation from Yamaha that states the oil filter needs to be soaked in oil first, because that step is not listed in the owners manual for the MT09.
@@empty_inside14 oil flow will have to pump and fill the oil filter before passing oil up into the head as it will have no oil pressure untill it does. wether it's in there or not it's a must do with 99% of engines any mechanic will tell you it's a good thing to do on any bike or car
@@PureEvolution that’s not what the mechanics around my way say, they say that with newer engines it is not necessary and it’s how so many over fill the oil and that causes way more harm.
@@empty_inside14 it's phisics if there's a gap in the oil line you will have low oil pressure yes newer engines helps but still.does unnecessary wear on parts that a simple thing to do can prevent it
@@PureEvolution ok it’s never been done on my bike but hey I’m sure 100,000 kms worth of riding probably isn’t enough for it to show unnecessary wear and tear.
Your chain is to tight
How do you figure?
La tua catena durerà 8/9 mila km troppo pulita e troppo tirata 🫣