Quick note: Go on dorman's website and try to locate the exact part number for your vehicle to be sure. Most of the servos are the same but there are a couple options. If I have helped you please help me and the channel! Click the servo link in the description, and then look up your part number from dorman to see if it has any availability options through amazon. I will still get credit as long as you access amazon through the link in the description. I will get credit for anything else you order also! Go crazy 😀 *_New sway bar link video_* th-cam.com/video/0S8JBe_jn6g/w-d-xo.html
Thank You so much for the Great Video! I have a 2006 CRV AC was working , but no heat for 2 years. I sprayed the cable and lever on the heater valve, then the blend door actuator. now everything is working again!
Thanks for posting, it was helpful identifying things to consider and look at in a logical order. Our mechanic replaced that little flapper valve under the hood yesterday, and still no heat, even though it was actuating. Then, he told my wife $1200.00 more to fix, because the heater core was plugged. I did a reverse flush today, (low pressure). Water seemed to flow through the core ok, and now she has some heat. It's not hot-hot, but its definitely warm.
Outstanding! No problem. I have a flushing method video on my channel also that I have used for years. Might help. Works better than anything else. My grandpa taught it to me. Best trick ever if you need to flush more out. I’m glad you got some heat working!
you are the man! thank you so much!! I kinda messed up with the switch cable while running front camera wire from engine compartment into passenger compartment using that cable hole on firewall, and I lost heat afterwards. your video help locate the problem and fix it. and you guys make lovely couple
I never reply but I use TH-cam for everything almost everyday - SO DUDE. thank you! warm sweet air in the deepfreeze in FL - tired of wearing gloves and heavy jacket just in the car . .Thank you thank you
Glad to help! You rock! Appreciate you going the extra mile to reply. Makes me feel good and it helps youtube know I am doing the right things also. Enjoy your heat 😃🔧
03 Element EX .. Mine since new ... I have had this problem for years ...but living in S. Florida I only need the heat very seldom ... I used to reach up with a screwdriver and move the gear but I have realized it's easier to just move the cable on the heater control valve under the hood which in turn opens the blend door ... I have been wondering how hard that blend door motor is to change and if it's the problem or if it's something sticking .. Thanks for the video ...
@@EasyFixShaunHello ... Thanks for the Reply ... Did you change that motor/actuator ? ... How hard was it to change ? And did that fix the problem ? ... I was hoping once you took the cable off the water control valve under the hood that you'd try the blend door again and see if it moved without the water valve attached ... looks like a real hard place to get to (work in ) ..Thanks again for the video ..I learned some and the camerawork was good ...
Thank you! Yup it is changed now and working great. It wasn't too bad except I had to lay on the drivers floor area which is a pain and never really fun. But all good now 😃
Thanx much appreciated. Did the test and showed # 9 as well, Took off fuse cover for better visual. Sure enough the gear was not driving all the way. Removed the previous owners long hair out of the drive gear and lubed with WD, worked like a champ. I use my Element a lot as a covered truck and blow it out with a leaf blower, I'm sure that doesn't help but oh well, love the vehicle. Much thanx saved me hours of research.
Great video! Had this exact problem on my '09 Element, ran diagnostic (Code 9), moved gear by hand - got heat! Will be ordering the blend door motor. Thanks!
At 21:55 you popped the coil off of a lever that you checked to see if it was moving freely. Can you test it without removing the wire part? I had a new part installed under the pedal, unsure what it was but the guy thought that was the issue and replaced in like 15 minutes…no heat. He then showed me how to manually move it to heat as winter was coming by what I thought was moving the lever under the hood (the one I asked you about) and I had heat all winter. Now, I have no heat but then again I just had a new head gasket, head milling for 2 Cyl and a thermostat installed. I had no heat after my radiator went low on fluid which was the start of misfiring and head milling. Dealer now says new core, $2k. 03 Element and I cannot sink another 2k into it. Check with a flush first…service guy mentioned this as an option. Thoughts?
@@bobgomavitz1330 There is procedure in the video during diagnosis where I tried it and it didn't help me. its always worth a shot. And anytime new parts are installed it must be performed for everything to work properly.
Thanks for the great video. Do you think the actuator can still be the culprit even if i get no codes from the self diag? i have heat only on the passenger side of the car.
Thanks man! If the control head looks the same try this videos method. If not I would search TH-cam and google and you should find what you are looking for 😀
Thanks. Mine's a 2000 Honda Accord. The heat blend door is on PASSENGER side. How to get to it? Ain't seen nothing that detailed yet. I dont have indoor garage. I am an old, and big dude. 240lb, 6'1". ALSO.. I am not sure if it's the flapper in the engine compartment.
I am not sure on your accord. But if you think it is on the passenger side, you could start by removing the glove box. Once removed you should be able to see where inside it is and make you next move. Concepts should all be similar. Make sure the door is moving. Make sure inside has heat there from the engine. Then fix which ever is missing 😃🔧
Nice video. I followed your steps perfectly. I’m ordering the actuator. Do I pull the dash off to get at the blend/actuator valve? The video stopped after we identified the possible issue.
Easy Fix We live on a mile of dirt road. A few weeks ago I used the leaf blower to blow the layer of winter sand, dirt and soot out of the cab! This drove dirt and grime up into the plastic planetary gear the operates the blend plate. The prior lube caught and retained the sand, causing the plate to seize. The little motor did not have enough juice to operate the blend. All I needed to do was remove the motor (VERY TOUGH ONE HAND OPERATION) to allow cleaning (air compressor accuracy) and re-lube to lithium base and NOT petroleum base), test and reassemble. No need to remove ANY dash works. Did the two button diagnostic test w same results. Hmmmm. Engine CEL light came on. Considering removing battery cable for a while. THANKS FOR THE SUPPORT. $5 for can of lithium
Nice job! My motor stopped working even though I lubricated it. They weaken over time unfortunealty. It’s a Honda thing. The good news is the system can be forced to hit or cold for a temporary fix until you can get a motor. 😃
Great video! My coolant level is good. I tried multiple times to so the 2 finger computer test and got no flashing so either I'm doing it wrong or I don't have any errors. I check the thing under the steering wheel (you must take off the plastic in front of the fuses lol) and that is dusty but good. My water pump is making a terrible noise so I'm changing that this weekend and going to also do a heater core flush so hopefully that problem. Thanks again.
Wow you have a lot of obvious things that are needed. I’m sure one of those things will end up being the fix. Always fix the obvious and then see what ya got before doing too much more. Usually with a little luck you hear will be working.
Hello Shawn. Best Video I've seen so far regarding this issue. I came to your same conclusion but tell me why do the norther Element who need heat get stuck on cold and us down in South Florida get stuck on heat. LMAO. I did the temp fix like you did, of course, not before doing a complete vacuum of and recharge of the AC. &%^$ . Anyway, this is great way to get back on the road and thank you for the part number, so many options on the net I have been struggling with which one to buy. My question is, did you do a video on changing the motor, how may screws etc. Do you have any instructions? I've heard removing the front seat will save your back. Any help will be appreciated!
Thank you! Heaters break in mysterious ways don't they! Its crazy man 😂. I did replace the motor. Its was tight but doable. I used a super short screw driver i believe. Three screws i think. I wish i had made a video for you. Im sorry i don't have one. Seat removal would help. But not necessary if you are flexible.
Helpful diagnosis. I would, however, suggest using silicone instead of petroleum based lubricant because the latter damages plastic, which those gears are.
This is pretty through, really helpful to me. I have a learning disability, so I learn by visual . I think there is a connection problem with the ventilation system. My element systems work, it's just I hit some pot holes and the vent system turns off. Can you show how to remove the face plate for visual inspection....without totally destroying my car. Please and thank you!
Im having this same issue with my 2003 Element. However it seems like the small white gear on bottom is stuck. When you removed the motor could you spin the small white plastic gear on the very bottom? Im not sure if my motor is weak or if my blend door is physically jammed. Thank you!
Hey Ryan. I thought my blend door was jammed also. My problem ended up being a weak motor. I could move the blend door by assisting the motor with my hand. So I got the heat working well. But it would stop working immediately because the motor was weak on the next try. By disconnecting the aux cable to the water valve under the hood I was able to get the motor to work reliably on its own. It had just enough power to turn the blend door properly every time. I just switched the water valve under the hood to always open and everything worked. I ran it like that for a month or so while I waited for a new motor to arrive and install it. Once I installed the new motor I was able to hook up the water valve and everything worked like it was supposed to.
@@ryanrobichaud3344 Oh ok, I am with you now. I would remove the motor and feel the door. If you can move it, motor is bad. If you can't move the blend door, The Hvac unit will need to be removed and disassembled to find the problem. Usually something to do with the door, It could have debris jamming it up. Hard to say. But those would be my basic next steps to diagnose.
Its the blend door. I bought a new motor, but upon removing the old motor i can now see the white round gear to the door is stuck. Seems to me that its a major job to remove and replace this part. Pretty bummed!
@@ryanrobichaud3344 Crap man! I am sorry. Yes it is a big job. Very doable, but will take some time and effort. I would try to move the gear by hand. Sounds like you need to remove the Dash board and heater box. Then open up the heater box and determine what the cause is. Sorry buddy. Not my favorite job at all. But, it is a fairly "clean" job since you are inside the car almost the whole time.
I ran a code 10 on this issue with my 2003 Honda element. The cable is completely stuck so I moved the valve myself in the engine bay. Still no heat coming in. What would be a temporary fix this issue or do you believe the whole motor unit needs to be replaced for any progress?
Can you open the valve under the hood by hand. And also turn the interior blend door motor by like the video? That gave me perfect temporary heat but no temp control at the control head. I replace ld the motor for the blend door that also has the cable to the engine bay. Works great.
@@werewolfalpha845 The valve near the back of the engine is just an on/off fluid valve. if it is closed you won't have heat to the heater box. If it is open and you have great heat to the heater box, the problem is usually the servo motor. I had two problems caused by one part. The servo motor in the heater box inside has a cable that hooks it to the water valve outside. The servo was weak and could not open the blend door inside and open the water valve at the same time. I disconnected mine. Opened the watervalve outside. Then tried to assist the blend door inside to open the blend door to allow heat to come out the vents. Worked great. I then ordered and replaced the blend door actuator and everything works great now from hot to cold.
Great video! Well done. Hopefully I have a similar problem. About to go and test using your pointers here. :-) *The Amazon "Compatibility checker" says the part you listed here is NOT compatible!? Did you have to alter it in any way or is it just an inefficient algorithm? Why didn't you add the replacement process to this film?
Thank you! I did end up replacing the blend door to fix the problem. You can see it was week in the video. But it did move with assistance. I didn’t have the new part. I should have made the video differently by waiting for the part and showing the install. Sorry about that. I’m not sure why the parts are different on amazon. You may need to look under your dash with your phone and confirm the part number with your phone by taking a video. That’s what I did. Then you can try to find options on amazon or eBay or the dealership. It was easier than using a mirror. It’s a tight space down there but with some patients it can be done 😀
I now have an updated video posted on the replacement and troubleshooting of this actuator! :-) I got the part listed here and it came with it geared in the wrong position. It may just be a fluke for my order but buyers beware. Message Dorman and order over the phone so you can get a free RMA return as needed. It also comes with the wrong actuator arm so make sure you keep your original OEM arm guys.
I don't have a video on the replacement. You can see the actuator in the video has mounting fasteners. In was fairly easy to replace except for the actuator being hard to reach under the dash 😀🔧
Sometimes the computer will not have a code if it thinks everything is working ok. Are you missing heat only? It may think everything is working good. But the heater core could still be dirty and clogged and needs cleaning. I have seen that before. It basically thinks everything is functioning ok but there is no heat to the heater core for that reason.
@@EasyFixShaun Im in S. Florida and only need the heat a few times a year .. I had "learned" about moving the water control valve cable to open it and the blend door a few years ago .. I don't know if I have a bad actoator motor (prob) or its "jammed" or a wiring issue ..but this works for me .. I'm thinking of putting a choke cable to it so I can open and close it from in the car ...
Excellent! I have a flush video for stubborn plugged heater core flushing if needed. Usually Honda’s heater cores don’t plug though. Should be just the actuators 😀
If it wont move with the electric motor removed, the door is hung up for some reason and the heater box will ultimately need disassembly to diagnose. Try to twist it and break if free with out breaking the plastic tab if you can. Sometimes they stick a bit from foreign material getting inside.😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks for the reply Sean. What do you mean by electric motor removed? Do I have to remove something. FYI, I was talking about the leaver underneath the steering wheel
Oh ok. You make need to watch the video again. There are several pinch points on the system that cause no heat or low heat. The lever under the steering wheel is only the first part. There is also a blend door that sticks or also the electric motor to turn it gets weak. Both are on the hvac box😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Thank you Sean. I watched it a few times, but I was more wondering why I can't move the lever under the stirring wheel like you do in the video at 12:56
Gutcha. That servo moves the white lever which moves two things simultaneously. the electric servo motor could be stuck. The cable could be stuck. The gears and the blend door they are attached to could be stuck. The motors are known for getting weak. The cable could stick or the valve it attaches to could be stuck. You need to eliminate causes one by one. It could be any of the three things or a combination of them. Start with the easiest which is remove the cable and see if you can move it by hand. Keep going from there. Let me know what you find.
Hi Kevin. Yes, the electric blend door motor did fix the problem entirely. Un-hooking the weak motor from the water valve under the hood, gave it enough power to be able to switch on its own again temporarily. I ran it like that with no problems for a couple months before I replaced it. I'm not sure how long I could have gone, maybe forever. But, I did replace it, to make sure I didn't have the problem in winter again. Does your car have the same symptoms?
@@EasyFixShaun Yes but i think my problem is different since my blend door motor is working fine. Mine seems to be from a head gasket leak. I lose antifreeze. Since it's not leaking, it must be seeping into the engine thru an exhaust valve. Reason i think that is it's not in the oil or on the plugs. No errors codes or poor running. I used a Blue Devil product for now until i can get the money to replace the head gasket.
Ok, Ya if the head gasket is leaking internally that could be the cause of coolant loss. It could also be pumping a small amount of air into the cooling system. If there is constant air being pumped in, that would sometimes go to the heater core because its the highest part of the system. If everything was working fine, the radiator cap can rid a small amount of air through normal engine heating and cooling off cycles. But if the leaking head gasket is pumping air in the cap can not keep up. In the mean time you could a try a new cap for the heck of it and see if that possibly helps...?
I don't believe there is an air bleed screw on that motor. Maybe google it quick to be sure. If it is an internal head gasket leak, It won't typically pull coolant from the jug into the cooling system like normal even if you do get it bled. Basically once a head gasket reaches that point you need immediate repair. Did you by chance try a head gasket and block tester? They are easy to use and you can quickly test the head gasket to see if that is the problem. You can pick them up at just about any parts store.
Hi there. Thanks for this video, having this issue currently on my 2003 Element. Noticed yesterday that the previous owner did a heater control valve bypass. I was wondering why I had a white cable not attached to anything underhood, now I know thanks to you. I was going to flush the heater core, because I just kind of thought that would be the first thing to try in this scenario, but your video swayed me to try pushing that under dash thing all the way to the left first to see if there's heat. I would like and subscribe but for some stupid reason on my 2.8K OLED screen laptop the like/subscribe buttons are not visible, I will do that as soon as I can figure out how to make them reappear. I'd also like to look at the description of the video but can't currently. Thanks TH-cam for messing things up! /sarcasm Hey I wanted to ask you, you show the video editing software you're using at the beginning of the video, what is that software? Thanks !
I am sorry that actuator didn't work for you. I went through the amazon link I provided and entered in your vehicle fitment and it said it does not fit. Sorry about that. Those parts are hard to find and some are different. I provided links for the model I had to get you going on the right pathway of finding your own part. "2008 honda element blend door" is what you want to try searching for. I could not find the correct part on dorman.com and amazon didn't show anything either. I did find it on rockauto.com the part number is GPD 1712729 $49. I did find it on ebay also. The Honda dealer is always good of course. I think I would go with rockauto.com Sorry for the hassle! 😃🔧
I did not. I should have I am sorry. They are totally doable up under the dash. The space is a little bit confined but if you are patient you can do it no problem.
Sorry for the late reply! I am so glad it helped you out. To remove the electrical connector the release tab just needs to be pressed. Sometimes it is hard to see. A pick or small screwdriver will help release it if you can not get to it with your hand. Don't force it, when released it will remove easily. 😃
Note added after most of this comment was made: "If you are not in a position to do much diagnostic work, FIRST try finding the water valve on the heater core hose, the valve with the cable running to it. Push the actuator as though the cable were being pushed by the motor that is under the dash. If this produces nice heat in the cab, then use whatever means you have available to keep that position so you can be warm until you can get around to seeing if the little cable actuator gears (under dash, driver side) can be cleaned up or you can afford to replace the actuator module." Original post: When I got upside-down so I could see under the driver side dash (driver door open, right leg thru open window to get some leverage), I could see the cable actuator very easily. I could also reach and, by feel, turn the temperature knob (center of 3 on the dash), which caused a black and a white set of toothed plastic cogs located at the cable actuator to move about a half inch. The gears were somewhat full of dog hair and dirt. Could the gears just be jammed? I turned the temperature knob on the dash to full heat and then used my fingers to gently force the big black cog to turn full open AND I HAD FULL HEAT COMING OUT MY VENTS!!! Yay! This lady just saved herself a bunch of money by watching this video! Now all I have to figure out is what to spray on those plastic cogs to clean the teeth out without damaging anything under there. Looks like the gear cogs were originally lubricated with white lithium grease. Well, hey, I kept watching the video and he shows all this AND includes a lubricant. As for replacing that motor in that upside-down position...get a nice skinny and in-shape mechanic...or plan to support your butt hanging out the door while you do it.
It's means I have a problem in the blower motor system. Should I just clean it and lubricate the shaft or do something else?. Tomorrow is Monday and it's my day off so I want to play with it.
@@samishaq9998 Ok, so you have normal fan speeds but no heat. I would first check fluid level when cold. If it's full, I would put the cap back on and start the engine and get it to normal operating temp. Once its warmed up feel the heater hoses, they should be hot. If they are hot, you might have the same exact issue I have in the video. Keep me posted on what you find!
@@EasyFixShaun the cable is moving back and forth perfectly although I put some oil on the gearbox my issue is I am installing a new radiator and I full it to the top when the engine was running I was feeling the upper hose which goes to the engine it was hot but the air inside the cabinet was cold
Car stuff is cool and fun, thanks for everything? BUT - I would report to HQ's as often as possible. I don't think that you should leave HQ's? lol. My problem was/is the heater control valve. I manually move it for now. Temp fix. I will look into it further, thanks to your video! HQ is calling? lol. Maybe the wire is just off? Thanks.
Hahaha! Yes, I report to Headquarters frequently. Yes, check the wire to the motor from that valve. Also, at some point in time someone could have just removed it the control wire to the valve. You can run it that way permanently if you choose. Just leave the engine bay valve in the open position. You may sacrifice a few degrees of temperature in the summer when HQ desires Air conditioning though. :)
Quick note: Go on dorman's website and try to locate the exact part number for your vehicle to be sure. Most of the servos are the same but there are a couple options. If I have helped you please help me and the channel! Click the servo link in the description, and then look up your part number from dorman to see if it has any availability options through amazon. I will still get credit as long as you access amazon through the link in the description. I will get credit for anything else you order also! Go crazy 😀
*_New sway bar link video_* th-cam.com/video/0S8JBe_jn6g/w-d-xo.html
Thank You so much for the Great Video! I have a 2006 CRV AC was working , but no heat for 2 years. I sprayed the cable and lever on the heater valve, then the blend door actuator. now everything is working again!
Fantastic! You are very welcome 😃😃
Great video, best cinematography ive seen 😅 im having the same issue, will try to wiggle and lube today before ordering the part.
Thank you, Good luck!
Thanks for posting, it was helpful identifying things to consider and look at in a logical order. Our mechanic replaced that little flapper valve under the hood yesterday, and still no heat, even though it was actuating. Then, he told my wife $1200.00 more to fix, because the heater core was plugged. I did a reverse flush today, (low pressure). Water seemed to flow through the core ok, and now she has some heat. It's not hot-hot, but its definitely warm.
Outstanding! No problem. I have a flushing method video on my channel also that I have used for years. Might help. Works better than anything else. My grandpa taught it to me. Best trick ever if you need to flush more out. I’m glad you got some heat working!
you are the man! thank you so much!! I kinda messed up with the switch cable while running front camera wire from engine compartment into passenger compartment using that cable hole on firewall, and I lost heat afterwards. your video help locate the problem and fix it. and you guys make lovely couple
You got it! 😄 Glad the video helped.
Thanks man! the little motor under the steering wheel was my problem. gave it a lil push and all is well. thanks for the in depth video!
Outstanding! I’m glad it helped. Those motors get weak, you may want to replace it at some point.
@@EasyFixShaun Will do. got 320,000 miles on her. going for half a million.
Nice! You can do it no problem. ✅
I got the same problem when I saw your video I love it I love it I love it a very big fat THANK YOU.
It sucks not having heat doesn't it? I made the video hoping it would help you out! Hit those Like and subscribe buttons for me. It helps my channel!
@@EasyFixShaun I have all speeds
I never reply but I use TH-cam for everything almost everyday - SO DUDE. thank you! warm
sweet air in the deepfreeze in FL - tired of wearing gloves and heavy jacket just in the car . .Thank you thank you
Glad to help! You rock! Appreciate you going the extra mile to reply. Makes me feel good and it helps youtube know I am doing the right things also. Enjoy your heat 😃🔧
03 Element EX .. Mine since new ... I have had this problem for years ...but living in S. Florida I only need the heat very seldom ... I used to reach up with a screwdriver and move the gear but I have realized it's easier to just move the cable on the heater control valve under the hood which in turn opens the blend door ... I have been wondering how hard that blend door motor is to change and if it's the problem or if it's something sticking .. Thanks for the video ...
Thanks for sharing! I wish I lived in florida! What great weather! It's cold in the winter where I live and heaters are essential 😂😃
@@EasyFixShaunHello ... Thanks for the Reply ... Did you change that motor/actuator ? ... How hard was it to change ? And did that fix the problem ? ... I was hoping once you took the cable off the water control valve under the hood that you'd try the blend door again and see if it moved without the water valve attached ... looks like a real hard place to get to (work in ) ..Thanks again for the video ..I learned some and the camerawork was good ...
Thank you! Yup it is changed now and working great. It wasn't too bad except I had to lay on the drivers floor area which is a pain and never really fun. But all good now 😃
Thanx much appreciated. Did the test and showed # 9 as well, Took off fuse cover for better visual. Sure enough the gear was not driving all the way. Removed the previous owners long hair out of the drive gear and lubed with WD, worked like a champ. I use my Element a lot as a covered truck and blow it out with a leaf blower, I'm sure that doesn't help but oh well, love the vehicle. Much thanx saved me hours of research.
Really awsome man! I’m glad it helped you out. It’s a pretty simple setup. Access is kinda tough. I’m glad you have heat 😀
Great video! Had this exact problem on my '09 Element, ran diagnostic (Code 9), moved gear by hand - got heat! Will be ordering the blend door motor. Thanks!
Glad it helped!! 😀😀
Did you change that blend door motor ? .. How was it ? ... "Fun?" ..
Thanks for the vid you helped me save money by helping diagnose and fix my heater on my 230k mile element
Excellent! no problem 😀🔧
This is what is happening on my 2003 Element. Thanks so much!
No prob! Good luck getting your heat going 😀
This video was so good and informative. Thank you!
Excellent i am glad it helped you out 😀🔧
I got same problem. It’s a big help for me. Thank you!
Glad to help!
At 21:55 you popped the coil off of a lever that you checked to see if it was moving freely. Can you test it without removing the wire part? I had a new part installed under the pedal, unsure what it was but the guy thought that was the issue and replaced in like 15 minutes…no heat. He then showed me how to manually move it to heat as winter was coming by what I thought was moving the lever under the hood (the one I asked you about) and I had heat all winter. Now, I have no heat but then again I just had a new head gasket, head milling for 2 Cyl and a thermostat installed. I had no heat after my radiator went low on fluid which was the start of misfiring and head milling. Dealer now says new core, $2k. 03 Element and I cannot sink another 2k into it. Check with a flush first…service guy mentioned this as an option. Thoughts?
After the replacement of the part was the calibration performed?
@@EasyFixShaun no…explain please
@@bobgomavitz1330 There is procedure in the video during diagnosis where I tried it and it didn't help me. its always worth a shot. And anytime new parts are installed it must be performed for everything to work properly.
Thank you so much your video was an immense help. That self diagnostic trick was a game changer for solving my problem
Outatanding! I’m glad it helped!! Thank you for the comment.
Thanks for the great video. Do you think the actuator can still be the culprit even if i get no codes from the self diag? i have heat only on the passenger side of the car.
Turn the actuator like in the video and if you get some proper heat that should tell you where the problem is 😀🔧
Same here!! Any results?
Where is the actuator?
Thanks friend !!! I fix my heat car now is good 👌🏻 thanks for the video u posted 🙏
Happy to help. I am glad you have heat! 🔥😃🔧
Great video, 🤙🏻 by any chance do you know how I can get code on a civic 2013?
Thanks man! If the control head looks the same try this videos method. If not I would search TH-cam and google and you should find what you are looking for 😀
Any idea what could cause the blower to stop working completely. No air movement at all. 03 Element. Thanks.
Usually it is Fuse, Blower motor resistor, or blower motor itself. I could be a switch or wiring also.
Thanks. Mine's a 2000 Honda Accord. The heat blend door is on PASSENGER side. How to get to it? Ain't seen nothing that detailed yet. I dont have indoor garage. I am an old, and big dude. 240lb, 6'1". ALSO.. I am not sure if it's the flapper in the engine compartment.
I am not sure on your accord. But if you think it is on the passenger side, you could start by removing the glove box. Once removed you should be able to see where inside it is and make you next move. Concepts should all be similar. Make sure the door is moving. Make sure inside has heat there from the engine. Then fix which ever is missing 😃🔧
Great video. Spots on with information!!!
Excellent! Thanks a lot. I really appreciate your comment. It feels great when it helps out 😀
Great video thanks mine had same exact problem
AWSOME!! I am so glad it helped you!! Thank you for the comment. Please Subscribe and like the video for me! It helps a ton. 🔧🔧😀
@@EasyFixShaun Done and done 👍
Nice video. I followed your steps perfectly. I’m ordering the actuator. Do I pull the dash off to get at the blend/actuator valve?
The video stopped after we identified the possible issue.
Thanks! Yup you can replace it without dash removal. It is a little tight under the drivers footwell area. But it is very do-able.😀
Easy Fix We live on a mile of dirt road. A few weeks ago I used the leaf blower to blow the layer of winter sand, dirt and soot out of the cab! This drove dirt and grime up into the plastic planetary gear the operates the blend plate. The prior lube caught and retained the sand, causing the plate to seize. The little motor did not have enough juice to operate the blend. All I needed to do was remove the motor (VERY TOUGH ONE HAND OPERATION) to allow cleaning (air compressor accuracy) and re-lube to lithium base and NOT petroleum base), test and reassemble. No need to remove ANY dash works. Did the two button diagnostic test w same results. Hmmmm. Engine CEL light came on. Considering removing battery cable for a while. THANKS FOR THE SUPPORT. $5 for can of lithium
Nice job! My motor stopped working even though I lubricated it. They weaken over time unfortunealty. It’s a Honda thing. The good news is the system can be forced to hit or cold for a temporary fix until you can get a motor. 😃
... see that cable at 6:12 in ? ... Move it to the left (out) and you will have heat ...
😊
Thanks for this! Code 9. You made my life easier...much appreciated.
I’m glad it helped! Thanks for watching I really appreciate that.
Great video! My coolant level is good. I tried multiple times to so the 2 finger computer test and got no flashing so either I'm doing it wrong or I don't have any errors. I check the thing under the steering wheel (you must take off the plastic in front of the fuses lol) and that is dusty but good. My water pump is making a terrible noise so I'm changing that this weekend and going to also do a heater core flush so hopefully that problem. Thanks again.
Wow you have a lot of obvious things that are needed. I’m sure one of those things will end up being the fix. Always fix the obvious and then see what ya got before doing too much more. Usually with a little luck you hear will be working.
What fuses where?
Hello Shawn. Best Video I've seen so far regarding this issue. I came to your same conclusion but tell me why do the norther Element who need heat get stuck on cold and us down in South Florida get stuck on heat. LMAO. I did the temp fix like you did, of course, not before doing a complete vacuum of and recharge of the AC. &%^$ . Anyway, this is great way to get back on the road and thank you for the part number, so many options on the net I have been struggling with which one to buy. My question is, did you do a video on changing the motor, how may screws etc. Do you have any instructions? I've heard removing the front seat will save your back. Any help will be appreciated!
Thank you! Heaters break in mysterious ways don't they! Its crazy man 😂. I did replace the motor. Its was tight but doable. I used a super short screw driver i believe. Three screws i think. I wish i had made a video for you. Im sorry i don't have one. Seat removal would help. But not necessary if you are flexible.
Helpful diagnosis. I would, however, suggest using silicone instead of petroleum based lubricant because the latter damages plastic, which those gears are.
Good suggestion! 😃🔧
How did you get dash lights that bright, mine i can barely see daytime
Maybe the lights are on and the dash is dimmer? I am not sure. I was indoors so it was slightly less bright than outside 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun i can barely see to set speed during the day and thanks for your help
This is pretty through, really helpful to me. I have a learning disability, so I learn by visual . I think there is a connection problem with the ventilation system. My element systems work, it's just I hit some pot holes and the vent system turns off. Can you show how to remove the face plate for visual inspection....without totally destroying my car. Please and thank you!
I'll keep that in mind for a future video! 😊 I don't have the car anymore though.... I am sorry. I won't be able to do that quickly..
Thanks man. Mine worked fully after adding lube. Guess I got lucky on this one!
Glad to hear it’s fixed! 😀😀
Im having this same issue with my 2003 Element. However it seems like the small white gear on bottom is stuck. When you removed the motor could you spin the small white plastic gear on the very bottom? Im not sure if my motor is weak or if my blend door is physically jammed. Thank you!
Hey Ryan. I thought my blend door was jammed also. My problem ended up being a weak motor. I could move the blend door by assisting the motor with my hand. So I got the heat working well. But it would stop working immediately because the motor was weak on the next try. By disconnecting the aux cable to the water valve under the hood I was able to get the motor to work reliably on its own. It had just enough power to turn the blend door properly every time. I just switched the water valve under the hood to always open and everything worked. I ran it like that for a month or so while I waited for a new motor to arrive and install it. Once I installed the new motor I was able to hook up the water valve and everything worked like it was supposed to.
@@EasyFixShaun I'm not able to assist it at all anymore. I used to be able to. Ill try a new motor
@@ryanrobichaud3344 Oh ok, I am with you now. I would remove the motor and feel the door. If you can move it, motor is bad. If you can't move the blend door, The Hvac unit will need to be removed and disassembled to find the problem. Usually something to do with the door, It could have debris jamming it up. Hard to say. But those would be my basic next steps to diagnose.
Its the blend door. I bought a new motor, but upon removing the old motor i can now see the white round gear to the door is stuck. Seems to me that its a major job to remove and replace this part. Pretty bummed!
@@ryanrobichaud3344 Crap man! I am sorry. Yes it is a big job. Very doable, but will take some time and effort. I would try to move the gear by hand. Sounds like you need to remove the Dash board and heater box. Then open up the heater box and determine what the cause is. Sorry buddy. Not my favorite job at all. But, it is a fairly "clean" job since you are inside the car almost the whole time.
I ran a code 10 on this issue with my 2003 Honda element. The cable is completely stuck so I moved the valve myself in the engine bay. Still no heat coming in. What would be a temporary fix this issue or do you believe the whole motor unit needs to be replaced for any progress?
Can you open the valve under the hood by hand. And also turn the interior blend door motor by like the video? That gave me perfect temporary heat but no temp control at the control head. I replace ld the motor for the blend door that also has the cable to the engine bay. Works great.
@@EasyFixShaun Does that valve under the engine that opens the blend door move if it isn't broken? Mine isn't moving and I don't want to force it.
@@werewolfalpha845 The valve near the back of the engine is just an on/off fluid valve. if it is closed you won't have heat to the heater box. If it is open and you have great heat to the heater box, the problem is usually the servo motor. I had two problems caused by one part. The servo motor in the heater box inside has a cable that hooks it to the water valve outside. The servo was weak and could not open the blend door inside and open the water valve at the same time. I disconnected mine. Opened the watervalve outside. Then tried to assist the blend door inside to open the blend door to allow heat to come out the vents. Worked great. I then ordered and replaced the blend door actuator and everything works great now from hot to cold.
Awesome. Just fixed mine. Thanks!
Fantastic!
This is great!
Thank you! I am so glad you like it 😃😃
thanks for making this video.
No problem. I hope you have heat now 😃🔧
thank you
Anytime. I hope it helps out 🤓🔧
Great video, saved us a lot of work thank you
You are so welcome. I am glad it helped out! Thank you for the kind comment!!
Great video! Well done. Hopefully I have a similar problem. About to go and test using your pointers here. :-)
*The Amazon "Compatibility checker" says the part you listed here is NOT compatible!? Did you have to alter it in any way or is it just an inefficient algorithm? Why didn't you add the replacement process to this film?
Thank you! I did end up replacing the blend door to fix the problem. You can see it was week in the video. But it did move with assistance. I didn’t have the new part. I should have made the video differently by waiting for the part and showing the install. Sorry about that. I’m not sure why the parts are different on amazon. You may need to look under your dash with your phone and confirm the part number with your phone by taking a video. That’s what I did. Then you can try to find options on amazon or eBay or the dealership. It was easier than using a mirror. It’s a tight space down there but with some patients it can be done 😀
I now have an updated video posted on the replacement and troubleshooting of this actuator! :-)
I got the part listed here and it came with it geared in the wrong position. It may just be a fluke for my order but buyers beware. Message Dorman and order over the phone so you can get a free RMA return as needed. It also comes with the wrong actuator arm so make sure you keep your original OEM arm guys.
@@EasyFixShaun do you have a video on how you fixed the blend door? My element is doing the same exact thing.
I don't have a video on the replacement. You can see the actuator in the video has mounting fasteners. In was fairly easy to replace except for the actuator being hard to reach under the dash 😀🔧
I have a 2011 is it the same thing to check
I’m not sure. It probably isn’t exactly the same. But it should be a very similar setup.
@@EasyFixShaun ok thanks
I just looked it up. Your 2011 is the same. 😃
@@EasyFixShaun thanks
Thanx, just fix it with the help of your video👍
Awesome! Nice work! It will be nice to have heat 😃🔧
that was my problem....ty soooo much
Excellent! No problem. Glad I could help.
That is my problem. I open manually and don’t thatch it keep it open in the winter until I find the fix.
Cool! I hope you get it all fixed up 😀🔧
I can’t get a code on mine does it get code only when there is a trouble ? I can’t get mines to flash
Sometimes the computer will not have a code if it thinks everything is working ok. Are you missing heat only? It may think everything is working good. But the heater core could still be dirty and clogged and needs cleaning. I have seen that before. It basically thinks everything is functioning ok but there is no heat to the heater core for that reason.
... Nice where they put that actuator motor .. Eh? .. I'd like to see a video of someone changing that part ..
Yes it is really stuffed up there. It can be done with some patience though thankfully. Many vehicles the whole dashboard has to come out 😳
@@EasyFixShaun Im in S. Florida and only need the heat a few times a year .. I had "learned" about moving the water control valve cable to open it and the blend door a few years ago .. I don't know if I have a bad actoator motor (prob) or its "jammed" or a wiring issue ..but this works for me .. I'm thinking of putting a choke cable to it so I can open and close it from in the car ...
Great troubleshooting and useful info. Looking at a used Element with marginal heat. I can figure out quick if its a heater core now. Thanks
Excellent! I have a flush video for stubborn plugged heater core flushing if needed. Usually Honda’s heater cores don’t plug though. Should be just the actuators 😀
I can't seem to move the leaver, like it stuck or something. Any idea what this means?
If it wont move with the electric motor removed, the door is hung up for some reason and the heater box will ultimately need disassembly to diagnose. Try to twist it and break if free with out breaking the plastic tab if you can. Sometimes they stick a bit from foreign material getting inside.😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks for the reply Sean. What do you mean by electric motor removed? Do I have to remove something. FYI, I was talking about the leaver underneath the steering wheel
Oh ok. You make need to watch the video again. There are several pinch points on the system that cause no heat or low heat. The lever under the steering wheel is only the first part. There is also a blend door that sticks or also the electric motor to turn it gets weak. Both are on the hvac box😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Thank you Sean. I watched it a few times, but I was more wondering why I can't move the lever under the stirring wheel like you do in the video at 12:56
Gutcha. That servo moves the white lever which moves two things simultaneously. the electric servo motor could be stuck. The cable could be stuck. The gears and the blend door they are attached to could be stuck. The motors are known for getting weak. The cable could stick or the valve it attaches to could be stuck. You need to eliminate causes one by one. It could be any of the three things or a combination of them. Start with the easiest which is remove the cable and see if you can move it by hand. Keep going from there. Let me know what you find.
So after replacing the motor, did that resolve the problem?
Hi Kevin. Yes, the electric blend door motor did fix the problem entirely. Un-hooking the weak motor from the water valve under the hood, gave it enough power to be able to switch on its own again temporarily. I ran it like that with no problems for a couple months before I replaced it. I'm not sure how long I could have gone, maybe forever. But, I did replace it, to make sure I didn't have the problem in winter again. Does your car have the same symptoms?
@@EasyFixShaun Yes but i think my problem is different since my blend door motor is working fine.
Mine seems to be from a head gasket leak. I lose antifreeze. Since it's not leaking, it must be seeping into the engine thru an exhaust valve. Reason i think that is it's not in the oil or on the plugs. No errors codes or poor running. I used a Blue Devil product for now until i can get the money to replace the head gasket.
Ok, Ya if the head gasket is leaking internally that could be the cause of coolant loss. It could also be pumping a small amount of air into the cooling system. If there is constant air being pumped in, that would sometimes go to the heater core because its the highest part of the system. If everything was working fine, the radiator cap can rid a small amount of air through normal engine heating and cooling off cycles. But if the leaking head gasket is pumping air in the cap can not keep up. In the mean time you could a try a new cap for the heck of it and see if that possibly helps...?
@@EasyFixShaun Yeah, it's a very very slow leak. I replaced the cap as well. Is there an Air bleed screw for this car?
I don't believe there is an air bleed screw on that motor. Maybe google it quick to be sure. If it is an internal head gasket leak, It won't typically pull coolant from the jug into the cooling system like normal even if you do get it bled. Basically once a head gasket reaches that point you need immediate repair. Did you by chance try a head gasket and block tester? They are easy to use and you can quickly test the head gasket to see if that is the problem. You can pick them up at just about any parts store.
Hi there.
Thanks for this video, having this issue currently on my 2003 Element. Noticed yesterday that the previous owner did a heater control valve bypass. I was wondering why I had a white cable not attached to anything underhood, now I know thanks to you.
I was going to flush the heater core, because I just kind of thought that would be the first thing to try in this scenario, but your video swayed me to try pushing that under dash thing all the way to the left first to see if there's heat.
I would like and subscribe but for some stupid reason on my 2.8K OLED screen laptop the like/subscribe buttons are not visible, I will do that as soon as I can figure out how to make them reappear. I'd also like to look at the description of the video but can't currently. Thanks TH-cam for messing things up! /sarcasm
Hey I wanted to ask you, you show the video editing software you're using at the beginning of the video, what is that software?
Thanks !
Glad I could help! Hope it works out! FCPX 10 Software on Apple 😃
Did you ever fix this problem?
Yes! I installed a new blend door motor/actuator that was weak in the video. Working perfect. Similar issues? 😃🔧
So that black box with green plug with the 2 silver screws is all you replaced
Yup!
very cool trick with the diag mode for the HVAC module. noting that one for next time.
Very handy to reset the computer and let it relearn the door positions. Sometimes that is all that is needed😃
FYI, that doman part number doesn't fit. The arm isn't right and it moves too much, makes a popping noise on my 2008 EX.
I am sorry that actuator didn't work for you. I went through the amazon link I provided and entered in your vehicle fitment and it said it does not fit. Sorry about that. Those parts are hard to find and some are different. I provided links for the model I had to get you going on the right pathway of finding your own part. "2008 honda element blend door" is what you want to try searching for. I could not find the correct part on dorman.com and amazon didn't show anything either. I did find it on rockauto.com the part number is GPD 1712729 $49. I did find it on ebay also. The Honda dealer is always good of course. I think I would go with rockauto.com Sorry for the hassle! 😃🔧
I updated the description to help the next person looking for the similar parts. Sorry for the trouble. Thanks for letting me know 😃🔧
Did you make a video of how to change the motor?? 🙃
I did not. I should have I am sorry. They are totally doable up under the dash. The space is a little bit confined but if you are patient you can do it no problem.
@@EasyFixShaun ive never done car repairs but i think i can do this thanks to your video! Any tips on how yo get the 7 pin connector out?
Sorry for the late reply! I am so glad it helped you out. To remove the electrical connector the release tab just needs to be pressed. Sometimes it is hard to see. A pick or small screwdriver will help release it if you can not get to it with your hand. Don't force it, when released it will remove easily. 😃
Note added after most of this comment was made: "If you are not in a position to do much diagnostic work, FIRST try finding the water valve on the heater core hose, the valve with the cable running to it. Push the actuator as though the cable were being pushed by the motor that is under the dash. If this produces nice heat in the cab, then use whatever means you have available to keep that position so you can be warm until you can get around to seeing if the little cable actuator gears (under dash, driver side) can be cleaned up or you can afford to replace the actuator module." Original post: When I got upside-down so I could see under the driver side dash (driver door open, right leg thru open window to get some leverage), I could see the cable actuator very easily. I could also reach and, by feel, turn the temperature knob (center of 3 on the dash), which caused a black and a white set of toothed plastic cogs located at the cable actuator to move about a half inch. The gears were somewhat full of dog hair and dirt. Could the gears just be jammed? I turned the temperature knob on the dash to full heat and then used my fingers to gently force the big black cog to turn full open AND I HAD FULL HEAT COMING OUT MY VENTS!!! Yay! This lady just saved herself a bunch of money by watching this video! Now all I have to figure out is what to spray on those plastic cogs to clean the teeth out without damaging anything under there. Looks like the gear cogs were originally lubricated with white lithium grease. Well, hey, I kept watching the video and he shows all this AND includes a lubricant. As for replacing that motor in that upside-down position...get a nice skinny and in-shape mechanic...or plan to support your butt hanging out the door while you do it.
Great tips!! 😃
I got code # 12
It's means I have a problem in the blower motor system.
Should I just clean it and lubricate the shaft or do something else?.
Tomorrow is Monday and it's my day off so I want to play with it.
Do you have fan speed at all? Do all the fan speeds work? If only high works, you need a blower motor resistor to fix the problem.
I have all speeds
@@samishaq9998 Ok, so you have normal fan speeds but no heat. I would first check fluid level when cold. If it's full, I would put the cap back on and start the engine and get it to normal operating temp. Once its warmed up feel the heater hoses, they should be hot. If they are hot, you might have the same exact issue I have in the video. Keep me posted on what you find!
@@EasyFixShaun the cable is moving back and forth perfectly although I put some oil on the gearbox my issue is I am installing a new radiator and I full it to the top when the engine was running I was feeling the upper hose which goes to the engine it was hot but the air inside the cabinet was cold
Car stuff is cool and fun, thanks for everything? BUT - I would report to HQ's as often as possible. I don't think that you should leave HQ's? lol.
My problem was/is the heater control valve. I manually move it for now. Temp fix. I will look into it further, thanks to your video! HQ is calling? lol.
Maybe the wire is just off? Thanks.
Hahaha! Yes, I report to Headquarters frequently. Yes, check the wire to the motor from that valve. Also, at some point in time someone could have just removed it the control wire to the valve. You can run it that way permanently if you choose. Just leave the engine bay valve in the open position. You may sacrifice a few degrees of temperature in the summer when HQ desires Air conditioning though. :)
That was an abrupt ending...
Slow is smooth. Smooth is fast 😀🔧
Wow you say hold this and this defrost button but your video only shows your hairy arm
Hairy arm took center stage 😂