This trick works wonders how ever it has less chances of success as the glue gets older. Working as a service plumber and having to deal with pipes that break just after the fitting i started looking for better ideas along the way and the REED clean ream extreme is an awesome tool to remove pipe from a hub end.
Do you have any tricks on regluing after using the reed ram bit? They're awesome, but after using it, the hub makes a much looser connection with the pipe. We tried it on some fixes on a job site but after filling the fix up with head pressure it leaked even worse. It seems to bore out the hub too much.
@@Moofda I haven't run into this issue without it sealing however I really over glue fittings when I've used this tool as it does fit pretty loose. I'm curious if you were working with PVC or ABS pipe. Up here in Canada we mostly work with ABS. Also the straighter you can drill the fitting the better.
You should do a video on fitting PVC pipe. I don't just mean gluing, I mean measuring and fitting complex runs. An issue I often run into is, I dry fit the whole thing, and when I glue it up, it's not the same. I think because the glue allows the pipe to slide in further or something, but, not being a plumber, I haven't quite figured this one out yet.
Great suggestion! To answer your question, you are exactly right! Plastic fittings such as PVC/ABS all have what we call an "interference fit" which doesn't allow the fitting to go in all the way unless there's a solvent cement (lubricant), hope this helps :)
You just measure the fitting depth. I think it's a standard 1 1/4" inch depth for pvc. Multiply that x2 for each fitting end and add to your mesured pipe length from fitting end to end, then you would need to make sure the pipe is perfectly cut square on each end and that you make sure to slide in all the way. It's easier said than done, but practice makes perfect! -also not a plumber
Reusing fittings is very common. The proper method to clear a fitting of pipe is to use a Rambit. It's a special tool that drills out the existing pipe and leaves just the hub to slip new pipe into. A lot of the time its just not possible to remove the old fitting and replace it with a new one or the customer doesn't want to go to the expense of jackhammering up a floor.
Thanks man. I broke off the vent under my sink and it broke off right in the T fitting. There is no extra material to cut and put a cuppling or new t. It goes right into the wall into the ninty going down. There is only a quarter inch of material or less between the t and ninety
As a longtime plumber, I never make mistakes, so this video was of no use to me. By the way, it's always important to plumb alone: you don't want witnesses.
heat a large piece of metal before you insert it, set it let it weaken the entire joint, then use a drill with a fitting and twist it out,there is also a tool for this that can drill it out exactly. i found it. Reed Tool PPR150 Clean Ream Extreme with 3/8-Inch Hex Shaft, 1-½-Inch Head , 21pcs Hole Saw Kit Carbon Steel,Normal Wood, Plywood, Drywall, PVC Board and Plastic Plate, Hole Saws with Mandrels, Hex Key and Install Plate, Cut Diameter 3/4"-5" Full Set in Storage Box . YOU WILL SAVE A TON OF TIME AND EFFORT and fingers, imagine a tight space.
Hi i normally do . .. Cut pipe closer to the elbow heat whit tourch inside of pipe left and whit a flat screwdriver remove the piece of pipe left works every time and will take 40 sec . Chers . Try this one and if you like you can make a video .
easier to just cut one side of the pipe through to the fitting hum then use a hammer and a chisel and when you get one edge lifted just work it from there. also when re using a fitting that has been saved like this use lots of glue when re guing.
You are welcome! It's basically the reverse process, you would saw the hub of the fitting, pry it off and you'd have access the to the pipe again, just need to be really careful that your not sawing into the pipe, cheers!!
Haha the example he’s using is the absolute best case scenario for the repair…haha would work no doubt…thanks to the handy (vise, fitting is at comfortable height to work on, no obstructions around to get in your way of being able to use a blade to cut inside of that hub) haha not knocking the guy at all …but if you work on the field this probably will never happen this way! Haha…as a union plumber I swear this is by far the best setting for the repair. Cool video though 👍🏼 (when removing the inside of the old fitting inside the hub be careful with prying it piece by piece because you might crack the fitting you actually wanted to use and save and then your totally screwed! Haha. Just a heads up. Good video though
I had a wash basin and stand (cabinet) fitted in my bathroom. The "genius" that fitted it cut the PVC pipe flush with the wall (gas brick - not dry wall) then discovered he could not install a bend. He then used a lot of silicone to "hold" a bend then connected the drain pipe to it (I trusted his "skill" and did not see what he had done - I am NOT a plumber etc. but am handy). A few months later I spotted water on the floor under the cabinet. Had to remove all that silicone; chisel away the wall around the pipe and I repaired his botched job. I did phone the guy to "relieve my frustration" then removed his name from my phonebook.....
That’s why I am watching so many plumbing videos. Nowadays if you want something done right you have to do it yourself. Skilled tradesfolk are getting scarce.
Awesome! I made another video like this one with even more info, here's the link if you have time to watch it: th-cam.com/video/UPzUBxvB8jo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks. Had just tried to glue in my abs flange and it was very slightly angled in the floor due to the 90 below, which threw off my level and prevented flush fit to the floor. I had to grab a claw hammer and heat gun to pry it out. Then I sanded both fittings clean and made a 1/4" shim so it would be supported and glued it in again. Worked great, but what a hassle. There was no way I was gonna make it flush without the shim preventing it from needing full insertion.
thanks for your tips, but most of the time if you are under the house with limited space, and the pipe is loose in some places, and you can place your vise.. I find it dificulta to perform.
Reem it out... we do it all the time when toilet flanges move/shift during back fill and the pour... so we wrap the 3" with foam wrap and use offset flanges... sometimes we have apprentice chip out concrete and dig down to the fitting. Usually we just use a reem bit shave out the pipe still glued inside of the hub... works everytime... For context im a commercial plumber and we mainly do apartment complexes new construction
They work, but they should be your very last option. Before using one of these, you should either do a loop vent or try to connect to a future vent that the builders left, if they did.
@@Got2Learn haha I guess you can ignore my comment above, I just posted "too bad there isn't a reamer or ? that could remove the glued in section" lol....
Awesome glue, I'm expanding my hydroponics, no, not what you think, it's just veggies, but still, I built one small system and when I decided to expand, I didn't even think about reusing/saving fittings, different glue here in Thailand, I'll try the hands on now, but I'd rather give it to someone for free 😅 30$ for 4x2m pipe, including fittings, they'll have to spend for a pump and a box tho, but worth trying, great video
I have a 1 3/4 inch pipe that comes from my well and hooks to a tee. One goes up to a hose bib and the other end goes down to and other pipe. It broke off at the edge of the tee. I can't put it in a vise. How can I remove the broken piece. It has been in there for fifteen years. Thanks for any suggestions.
To be honest, what would be a great invention is if there was a reamer made for each size 1 1/4" 1 1/2" 2" etc where you cut off the offending pipe, stuck in the reamer and removed the glued in section. ABS etc is rather soft so it doesn't have to be a carbide bit, it'd help if it was self centering and limited to the right diameter. I was putting on a closet flange one time and it grabbed the second I put it on, I couldn't rotate it into position no matter how hard I tried. I mean it locked in place instantly.
@@muskokamike127 Jones Stephens carries them, called Socket Saver. Several videos here on youtube. I first used on a 4" stack fitting. It was expensive for a single use, but it saved my ass!
They are a thing already, look up pipe fitting saver, they come in a whole variety of sizes. The method shown in the video is the next best thing if you don't already have one of those bits. In my experience with my local stores, no one ever seems to have them in stock for whatever reason.
I glued it all up going into the basement and hard to reach tub grain which should 2" but I installed a 4 in. x 4 in. x 1-1/2 in. I need to convert that into 2" can I chisel it out?
I actually did something similar to this a few days ago. Neighbors had some PVC stuck in the T&P valve of their water heater, somebody else managed to break the pipe in a way that you couldn't screw it back out. Got a flathead screwdriver + hammer and cracked the plastic pipe off the threads.
Told them to prepare to save up for a new water heater, theirs is still going from 2003 but it's really not in the best of shape. (I live in a somewhat poor neighborhood)
Next time heat it and it’ll peel right out I’ve done it to approximately 5 year old existing and it worked the biggest thing is you want enough heat to melt the glue but not enough to burn or warm the pvc
Agreed........notch it, tickle it with heat, get a piece out, long nose pliers, curl and twist with tickling the heat on........works every time and you get a nice clean extraction to re prepare it
@@Got2Learn thanks for answering!!! Going to give this a go. I got a 4 inch to 1.5 inch bushing going into a 4 inch cleanout. Unfortunately I can’t use a rambit as it won’t fit in the 1.5 inch section.
@@Got2Learn ayyy, thanks for the reaching out! I went really well actually. I ended modifying the approach slightly for my scenario. I used a 2.5 inch hole saw in order to get most of the bushing out, (I think a 2.75 might have been better but that’s all I had). After that, I followed the method in the video, cut slots and chiseled away. Took about 45-60 minutes total (could have been shorter but was experimenting a bit)
Couple of things. 1. I would've used the Recipricating Saw instead of working myself too much with the Hacksaw Blade. 2. Screwdrivers aren't Chisels (Guilty of that myself). 3. Hub Savers are Awesome (Essentially they're Drill Bits that have guides made onto them that drill the pipe out of the fitting) and come in just about all sizes for cheap. But if you're roughing it this technique will work.
There is a tool available you can attach to your cordless drill clutch that can be used to ream out mistakes like this. Or you could just measure twice, cut and glue once..
make a product called the "Rapter" Ive used it once in a really sticky situation which is the only time you would versus just cutting out a section and installing slip joints.
I have a problem. My home has swedge metal line with a diameter of 2.5 inches. I need to change a rotten section under a shower that is a p shape loop. I can not find any 2.5 inch PVC or ABC pipe on the market. No such size exist or I can not find it. What should I do?
Cut the pipe flush with the fitting then cut a small portion about half an inch on the pipe then pry that little piece off with a screw driver then continue hitting your flathead in between the pipe and fitting all the way around until that piece eventually comes all the way off
@@Got2Learn yeah man I know you know what you're doing I was just saying the way I do it. Good to see how big your channel has grown I remember back when you first started.
I would have to consider the cost of the fitting verses the labor time. If I didn't have another fitting I'd have to weigh the time to go get one verses the time to recover the one. Even if you're working on a home project you still should consider your time...
Hey there is a tool. There is always a tool. It works like an automotive Ridge Reamer and will save you all the stress and can re use the fitting without a leak.
@@dwell771 did you find IT? fun fact is it will trim off the pipe from the saw cut. Makes it so square and clean. Wish I could remember what its called. Cost a lot $75 or so but well worth it.
personally I just cut the fitting out replace with new one and use collars to attach. 4 me easier and faster. I always but xtra fittings n stuff: u can always return any unused parts.
Main products: sealing gasket,gland packing,PTFE/graphite/asbestos products, ceramic fiber products, high temperature heat insulation and fireproof material. Free technical support (sealing, heat preservation, heat insulation, fire prevention problems) All products 1 piece can also be customized, 30 years of service experience, fast and safe shipping anywhere.😇
If you would have put some pipe solvent on the inside of the pipe to be removed and lit it on fire it will soften the glue and you could of pulled the pipe right out. Saved yourself a load of time.
Can anyone tell me what kind of prep I need to do to re-use? my problem isn't getting the fitting apart, but I have concerns about re-gluing. Mine came out quite a bit cleaner than that one.
I just tried, it still work. I had a burst pipe during the lockdown period. No hardwares opened. I have the pipe but not the fittings, had to recycle all the fitting. Still took a day to replace a single pipe because I'm doing it on a 20mm pipes and my saw barely fit them
I did this. Pool pipes. I proved to myself that one could freely enter hell, then later return to the regular world. They didn't play the perfect music like you did though.
Thank you!! Used this on a joint that had been glued for 5 years. Took about 15 minutes and worked beautifully.
This trick works wonders how ever it has less chances of success as the glue gets older. Working as a service plumber and having to deal with pipes that break just after the fitting i started looking for better ideas along the way and the REED clean ream extreme is an awesome tool to remove pipe from a hub end.
Do you have any tricks on regluing after using the reed ram bit? They're awesome, but after using it, the hub makes a much looser connection with the pipe. We tried it on some fixes on a job site but after filling the fix up with head pressure it leaked even worse. It seems to bore out the hub too much.
@@Moofda I haven't run into this issue without it sealing however I really over glue fittings when I've used this tool as it does fit pretty loose. I'm curious if you were working with PVC or ABS pipe. Up here in Canada we mostly work with ABS.
Also the straighter you can drill the fitting the better.
You should do a video on fitting PVC pipe. I don't just mean gluing, I mean measuring and fitting complex runs. An issue I often run into is, I dry fit the whole thing, and when I glue it up, it's not the same. I think because the glue allows the pipe to slide in further or something, but, not being a plumber, I haven't quite figured this one out yet.
Great suggestion! To answer your question, you are exactly right! Plastic fittings such as PVC/ABS all have what we call an "interference fit" which doesn't allow the fitting to go in all the way unless there's a solvent cement (lubricant), hope this helps :)
You just measure the fitting depth. I think it's a standard 1 1/4" inch depth for pvc. Multiply that x2 for each fitting end and add to your mesured pipe length from fitting end to end, then you would need to make sure the pipe is perfectly cut square on each end and that you make sure to slide in all the way. It's easier said than done, but practice makes perfect! -also not a plumber
Reusing fittings is very common. The proper method to clear a fitting of pipe is to use a Rambit. It's a special tool that drills out the existing pipe and leaves just the hub to slip new pipe into. A lot of the time its just not possible to remove the old fitting and replace it with a new one or the customer doesn't want to go to the expense of jackhammering up a floor.
Also known as a "Hub Saver" because it saves the hub of your fitting.
Thanks man.
I broke off the vent under my sink and it broke off right in the T fitting. There is no extra material to cut and put a cuppling or new t. It goes right into the wall into the ninty going down.
There is only a quarter inch of material or less between the t and ninety
@john Awesome!!
Yeah, I just use heat gun and use a new pipe as a size fit.
How do you save the pipe and not the fitting?
Full video on this: th-cam.com/video/UPzUBxvB8jo/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=Got2Learn
As a longtime plumber, I never make mistakes, so this video was of no use to me. By the way, it's always important to plumb alone: you don't want witnesses.
A plumber that doesn't make mistakes is a plumber that stays home LOL.
As a part time DIY’er i always make mistakes so this video was very useful to me! 😄
❤ always plumb alone❤
Everyone makes mistakes I'm sure you've made a couple
🤣🤣🤣🤣the music synced with final success 🎶 so funny!
😉
heat a large piece of metal before you insert it, set it let it weaken the entire joint, then use a drill with a fitting and twist it out,there is also a tool for this that can drill it out exactly. i found it. Reed Tool PPR150 Clean Ream Extreme with 3/8-Inch Hex Shaft, 1-½-Inch Head , 21pcs Hole Saw Kit Carbon Steel,Normal Wood, Plywood, Drywall, PVC Board and Plastic Plate, Hole Saws with Mandrels, Hex Key and Install Plate, Cut Diameter 3/4"-5" Full Set in Storage Box . YOU WILL SAVE A TON OF TIME AND EFFORT and fingers, imagine a tight space.
Hi i normally do . ..
Cut pipe closer to the elbow heat whit tourch inside of pipe left and whit a flat screwdriver remove the piece of pipe left works every time and will take 40 sec . Chers . Try this one and if you like you can make a video .
Thanks buddy, really appreciate it ;)
You saved me! Thanks for creating this video. I had a broken piece of pipe inside a really hard for source part and I needed it fixed immediately.
😇😇😇
😅😅Drop that little screwdriver down pipe in real-life scenario, and you are more screwed than that flathead is!
😆😆😆
I like the background music when you're making the art of removing the pipe from the fitting
:)
🤣🤣🤣👌
easier to just cut one side of the pipe through to the fitting hum then use a hammer and a chisel and when you get one edge lifted just work it from there. also when re using a fitting that has been saved like this use lots of glue when re guing.
A heatgun can soften the glue and the inside piece. Then pull it out with visegrips.
Very bright idea...no need to be discouraged with mistakes. Your videos are always have a great solution !
+Sherri Morana
Thank you !!
Thanks for all of your videos! Do you have a video for saving the pipe by removing a broken fitting ?
You are welcome! It's basically the reverse process, you would saw the hub of the fitting, pry it off and you'd have access the to the pipe again, just need to be really careful that your not sawing into the pipe, cheers!!
@@Got2Learn thanks for all of the tips! I appreciate it!
Haha the example he’s using is the absolute best case scenario for the repair…haha would work no doubt…thanks to the handy (vise, fitting is at comfortable height to work on, no obstructions around to get in your way of being able to use a blade to cut inside of that hub) haha not knocking the guy at all …but if you work on the field this probably will never happen this way! Haha…as a union plumber I swear this is by far the best setting for the repair. Cool video though 👍🏼 (when removing the inside of the old fitting inside the hub be careful with prying it piece by piece because you might crack the fitting you actually wanted to use and save and then your totally screwed! Haha. Just a heads up. Good video though
You just saved me. Thanks man! 🙏
Awesome, check out this similar video I made, lot's of good info in there too: th-cam.com/video/UPzUBxvB8jo/w-d-xo.html
Hi, do you know of the second scenario works in the opposite way? As in trying to save the inner fitting instead of the outer fitting?
I had a wash basin and stand (cabinet) fitted in my bathroom. The "genius" that fitted it cut the PVC pipe flush with the wall (gas brick - not dry wall) then discovered he could not install a bend. He then used a lot of silicone to "hold" a bend then connected the drain pipe to it (I trusted his "skill" and did not see what he had done - I am NOT a plumber etc. but am handy). A few months later I spotted water on the floor under the cabinet. Had to remove all that silicone; chisel away the wall around the pipe and I repaired his botched job. I did phone the guy to "relieve my frustration" then removed his name from my phonebook.....
🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
That’s why I am watching so many plumbing videos. Nowadays if you want something done right you have to do it yourself. Skilled tradesfolk are getting scarce.
This video saved the day. Thank you!
Awesome! I made another video like this one with even more info, here's the link if you have time to watch it: th-cam.com/video/UPzUBxvB8jo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks. Had just tried to glue in my abs flange and it was very slightly angled in the floor due to the 90 below, which threw off my level and prevented flush fit to the floor. I had to grab a claw hammer and heat gun to pry it out. Then I sanded both fittings clean and made a 1/4" shim so it would be supported and glued it in again. Worked great, but what a hassle. There was no way I was gonna make it flush without the shim preventing it from needing full insertion.
👌👌👌
thanks for your tips, but most of the time if you are under the house with limited space, and the pipe is loose in some places, and you can place your vise.. I find it dificulta to perform.
Worked like a charm thanks for the video👍
🙂🙂🙂
Reem it out... we do it all the time when toilet flanges move/shift during back fill and the pour... so we wrap the 3" with foam wrap and use offset flanges... sometimes we have apprentice chip out concrete and dig down to the fitting. Usually we just use a reem bit shave out the pipe still glued inside of the hub... works everytime...
For context im a commercial plumber and we mainly do apartment complexes new construction
thanks sis !!! i'll be posting another one soon !
Hi, Speaking of fittings, what do you think about studor vents for kitchen sinks?
They work, but they should be your very last option. Before using one of these, you should either do a loop vent or try to connect to a future vent that the builders left, if they did.
@@Got2Learn I just tore my drywall and added a air vent before adding cabinets and regretting later thanks.
YEah, if you do install these, they MUST remain accessible.
Just a thought, why wouldn’t you use a reamer of the appropriate size for scenario #2?
That's just if you don't have one, I have a video coming up on that tool, stay tuned!
@@Got2Learn haha I guess you can ignore my comment above, I just posted "too bad there isn't a reamer or ? that could remove the glued in section" lol....
Awesome glue, I'm expanding my hydroponics, no, not what you think, it's just veggies, but still, I built one small system and when I decided to expand, I didn't even think about reusing/saving fittings, different glue here in Thailand, I'll try the hands on now, but I'd rather give it to someone for free 😅 30$ for 4x2m pipe, including fittings, they'll have to spend for a pump and a box tho, but worth trying, great video
We put a thin layer of primer and light it on fire. It loosens the grey glue. We’ve done this on 4” pressurized lines.
do not do this!
How do you clean the messy fitting up before reusing it? Looks like lots of glue and such remains.
Thank you so much for the helpful how to video.
🤘🤘🤘
I mean.....ive done the same thing. But with a sawzall....heat gun works but SOME glue joints cannot be heated.
I have a 1 3/4 inch pipe that comes from my well and hooks to a tee. One goes up to a hose bib and the other end goes down to and other pipe. It broke off at the edge of the tee. I can't put it in a vise. How can I remove the broken piece. It has been in there for fifteen years. Thanks for any suggestions.
This might help you: th-cam.com/video/UPzUBxvB8jo/w-d-xo.html
Could you do any hacks on stainless Steel pipes and thread fittings
For steel u can use ===> cheesel
To be honest, what would be a great invention is if there was a reamer made for each size 1 1/4" 1 1/2" 2" etc where you cut off the offending pipe, stuck in the reamer and removed the glued in section. ABS etc is rather soft so it doesn't have to be a carbide bit, it'd help if it was self centering and limited to the right diameter. I was putting on a closet flange one time and it grabbed the second I put it on, I couldn't rotate it into position no matter how hard I tried. I mean it locked in place instantly.
You know that they actually make such a bit? I've had to use them twice.
@@willgraves5288 do you have a link? I'd be interested in seeing it/them.....thanks
@@muskokamike127 Jones Stephens carries them, called Socket Saver. Several videos here on youtube. I first used on a 4" stack fitting. It was expensive for a single use, but it saved my ass!
@@willgraves5288 cool, thanks, I'll go check them out. Proof positive that you DO learn sumthin new everyday! haha
They are a thing already, look up pipe fitting saver, they come in a whole variety of sizes. The method shown in the video is the next best thing if you don't already have one of those bits. In my experience with my local stores, no one ever seems to have them in stock for whatever reason.
Same scenario except the fitting is pvc to metal but threaded any recommandations ?.
Whats your opinion of the Pipe Parana ?
Never tried it, anyone??
I glued it all up going into the basement and hard to reach tub grain which should 2" but I installed a 4 in. x 4 in. x 1-1/2 in. I need to convert that into 2" can I chisel it out?
Thanks! New follower here. After the winter storms In Texas, I have a lot of pool repairs to do and this video was very helpful.
Sweet, so sorry to hear about TX 🙏🙏🙏
Same here my friend, Dallas area . my multiport valve froze. Busted all to hell. Lucky I had drained the pump.
Dallas pool service guy here. Look into buying a socket saver for "2 and 1.5" best $15 you will spend. Faster than this as well
I actually did something similar to this a few days ago. Neighbors had some PVC stuck in the T&P valve of their water heater, somebody else managed to break the pipe in a way that you couldn't screw it back out. Got a flathead screwdriver + hammer and cracked the plastic pipe off the threads.
Told them to prepare to save up for a new water heater, theirs is still going from 2003 but it's really not in the best of shape. (I live in a somewhat poor neighborhood)
Awesome, good job!
Just cut the pipe short ,paint the inside with glue or primer ,then light it up ,in a few seconds it will be hot enough to pull the pipe out.
Maybe outside. Inside the fumes and fire will kill you, especially on a drain with gases in it.
A "Socket Saver" reamer would save you a time of time!!
That’s what I was wondering too
Great tip if your pipe assembly is not already installed or it'll be hard if not impossible to set up a vise.
uhm its called a hub saver dude. The sell them in any supply house. It drills the pipe out of the fitting without distorting it like that.
+manny f Well, now you know what to do if you don't have one or lost it ;)
That fitting wasn't ready to get a new pipe in. I believe you need to send it down properly first right? What do you use?
thank you for sharing
I like that, when you say Hey what's up
Very helpful sir
Thanks!
hilarious. i think i will get a socket saver, although i guess if i in the field, this method is still faster than retreiving one
Lmfao the sad music that comes on 😂
🤣🤣🤣
Don’t lose the screw driver down the drain😮
Oh no, not good haha!
Have you bought socket savers yet? If so, what brand?
th-cam.com/video/UPzUBxvB8jo/w-d-xo.html
Next time heat it and it’ll peel right out I’ve done it to approximately 5 year old existing and it worked the biggest thing is you want enough heat to melt the glue but not enough to burn or warm the pvc
I don’t know how old this video is but I can’t stop laughing I give him a like Mostly because of a good laugh he gave me
suprised the fitting doesn't split on you when you drive the flathead inbetween the piece and the fitting. happens every time to me
it happens!
Heat gun works better especially when it is installed I watch and learned it from other channel too
Agreed........notch it, tickle it with heat, get a piece out, long nose pliers, curl and twist with tickling the heat on........works every time and you get a nice clean extraction to re prepare it
Great Video keep up the good work, your videos will help many people :) :)
you just saved my ass . thanks !!!
🤘🤘🤘
Heat it up and twist it out with pliers...
Will this work on abs that was glued for 25 years?
@@TheBaz568 yup
@@Got2Learn thanks for answering!!! Going to give this a go. I got a 4 inch to 1.5 inch bushing going into a 4 inch cleanout. Unfortunately I can’t use a rambit as it won’t fit in the 1.5 inch section.
lemme know how it went!
@@Got2Learn ayyy, thanks for the reaching out! I went really well actually. I ended modifying the approach slightly for my scenario. I used a 2.5 inch hole saw in order to get most of the bushing out, (I think a 2.75 might have been better but that’s all I had). After that, I followed the method in the video, cut slots and chiseled away.
Took about 45-60 minutes total (could have been shorter but was experimenting a bit)
@@TheBaz568 boom!
Couple of things. 1. I would've used the Recipricating Saw instead of working myself too much with the Hacksaw Blade. 2. Screwdrivers aren't Chisels (Guilty of that myself). 3. Hub Savers are Awesome (Essentially they're Drill Bits that have guides made onto them that drill the pipe out of the fitting) and come in just about all sizes for cheap. But if you're roughing it this technique will work.
There is a tool available you can attach to your cordless drill clutch that can be used to ream out mistakes like this. Or you could just measure twice, cut and glue once..
use a plastic welder to heat, then jam a flathead in there works as well
i set the inside on fire then dig out with a flathead
Good idea
My pleasure man, glad you liked it, don't forget to subscribe and share, it helps a lot :)
make a product called the "Rapter" Ive used it once in a really sticky situation which is the only time you would versus just cutting out a section and installing slip joints.
I have a problem.
My home has swedge metal line with a diameter of 2.5 inches.
I need to change a rotten section under a shower that is a p shape loop.
I can not find any 2.5 inch PVC or ABC pipe on the market. No such size exist or I can not find it.
What should I do?
You'll need to use a Fernco or reducing rubber clip and use 2" pipe instead.
@@Got2Learn 🙏🙏 My HomeDepot doesn't have it. By any chance, do you have a link to any seller?
@@samsen3965 might wanna try a plumbing shop for those
@@Got2Learn Thanks. Seems there are some on eBay but they are referred to as 63mm to 75mm (Some from sellers in UK).
Good tips great video !
I glued abs to pvc using abs glue, what are the consequences?
A chisel can be used - just peel the inner pipe apart, and this way you don't damage the outer fitting
That surely works too, thanks Danny!
What album the music is from ?!? Is that from Kevin MacLeod’s works ?!?
solid content as usual!!!!! i will do this next time i install a 4" abs WYE backwards...smh
Hehe, awesome, thanks buddy ;)
Cut the pipe flush with the fitting then cut a small portion about half an inch on the pipe then pry that little piece off with a screw driver then continue hitting your flathead in between the pipe and fitting all the way around until that piece eventually comes all the way off
Thanks for your input buddy, appreciate it ;)
@@Got2Learn yeah man I know you know what you're doing I was just saying the way I do it. Good to see how big your channel has grown I remember back when you first started.
Hey that's what this channel is all about, learning! Yeah the channel grew a lot in the past year, it's truely impressive!
A heat gun and channel locks is much faster and you don't have to cut out the piece of pipe in several areas.
This deforms the fitting.
@@Got2Learn it doesn't unless someone is an ape. you heat from the inside of the fitting
Sure! 🤜🤛
why didn't you install a stainless steel hose clamp around the outside so you don't chip outwards?
Another good tip that saves the day when there is no other way, did not know this was possible I thought once the glue sets.
;)
I can tell that removing it as shown in this video is HELL. I've ordered rambit / fitter/socket saver bit. Let's see how it performs
RAM bit is much easier and cuts inside the pipe fitting
Just heat the inner piper with a heat gun and you can pry it off easily with a needle nose plier.
TheSeraphim75 i'll give it a try !!
you then wreck the fitting you are trying to save, pvc over 140 degrees starts to deteriorate... it does work but this is not ideal at all.
That's another way that works well, I use it sometimes, thanks for the input MrDmadness ;)
Thank you Mrdmadness ;)
brian kirkbride Me too, I think I'll include this technique in my next plumbing video.
Put a large hose clamp around the outside of the fitting so you don’t split it when your chopping it out with hammer & screw driver
I would have to consider the cost of the fitting verses the labor time. If I didn't have another fitting I'd have to weigh the time to go get one verses the time to recover the one. Even if you're working on a home project you still should consider your time...
Yeah this is for when the stores are closed as mentioned in the video.
Hey there is a tool. There is always a tool. It works like an automotive Ridge Reamer and will save you all the stress and can re use the fitting without a leak.
hey Howard where can I find such a tool may want to try it
They are on Amizon. Everything is on Amizon. Got 2 one in 2 inch and one 1 1/2.
@@howardiko7156 thx good to know
@@dwell771 did you find IT? fun fact is it will trim off the pipe from the saw cut. Makes it so square and clean. Wish I could remember what its called. Cost a lot $75 or so but well worth it.
@@howardiko7156 socket saver?
Did this on a 12" sch80 flange on a return line from a cooling tower it took àlmost 4hrs
personally I just cut the fitting out replace with new one and use collars to attach. 4 me easier and faster. I always but xtra fittings n stuff: u can always return any unused parts.
Is that a hacksaw blade?
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If you would have put some pipe solvent on the inside of the pipe to be removed and lit it on fire it will soften the glue and you could of pulled the pipe right out. Saved yourself a load of time.
Can anyone tell me what kind of prep I need to do to re-use? my problem isn't getting the fitting apart, but I have concerns about re-gluing. Mine came out quite a bit cleaner than that one.
Jack Crichton I'd suggest sanding any bumps and valleys and put lots of glue both on the fitting and the pipe ;)
Got2Learn Thanks for the lightning quick response!! Thumbs up and subscribed!!
Jack Crichton If you have any questions I am always available !
You can. Just apply liberal glue (cement if you prefer to call it) then wipe with steel wool, or scrape with a knife, and repeat until clean
what if the glue has been set for years?
I honestly don't know how well this trick would work, you'd have to try it out for yourself on an old pipe ;)
I just tried, it still work. I had a burst pipe during the lockdown period. No hardwares opened. I have the pipe but not the fittings, had to recycle all the fitting. Still took a day to replace a single pipe because I'm doing it on a 20mm pipes and my saw barely fit them
That screw driver just fell into the pipe and never coming back in real life scenario.
I did this. Pool pipes. I proved to myself that one could freely enter hell, then later return to the regular world. They didn't play the perfect music like you did though.
Hahaaaa, good job buddy...a little music does help though ;) @bob m
@@Got2Learn how do I ask a question, without posting it in comments, please
Try the TH-cam Community tab when you are on my main page.
@@Got2Learn is there a smaller brush for abs cement for hard to reach areas where normal brush won't go around?
@@Eastbaypisces dunno of a smaller brush than the one that is soldered to the cap.
Why not apply heat to make it easier?
When that PVC adhesive is applied, 2 becomes one, there is no seperating even one into a re-useable state.
What if the joint is several decades old?
20 minutes to save 50 cents
False.
That corzan schedule 30 (cpvc) is hard stuff
Yes!
Is that the official sweatshirt of Canada?
Hehe, I the real ones up for grabs now ;)
Did they not have socket savers then
In case you don't have one.
Reed make a drill bit just for this.
You made it look so easy ok I can count all the time I broke the hub ,anyways I like to use a long flat head and thinner one too
Thanks! It doesn't always work out that easy ;)
Because u want took fast to remove
Remove with love slowly slowly