check out www.welderseries.com/ if your looking for a mustang II kit. just used one on my willys and it was perfect. And they are out of Toronto... no import stuff...imgur.com/user/mkfn4071 here are some pictures
@@ACELABUTSA I looked at there stuff it looks good, I even talked to them, but they only have a two piece crossmember and I'd like one, I'm just going to make one
Love how Rich makes a good proper race car that with some money and sponsors and a few buds is good and reliable Altho is abit sketchy. And Stefan builds a race car with almost none of that but pretty much anyone can do it at home. With jack stands and a welder. This is why I love this channel
@@mumbles005 i'm going to build my own intake and exhaust, i've already have the flanges to make the exhaust side just have to get to that point and the pt is still at my house
@@mumbles005 if you watch the 1st video you'd see that he already addressed this issue. Was even joking about it. Not bad advice though. I was thinking about doing this combo but with the r154 tranny. Between the intake and input shaft length issues it was too much trouble. Thats why I was so stoked to see Stefan M's video. See how he dealt with it.
@@mumbles005 Mumbʟes005 yup, precisely why I didn't bother even starting Lol. I agree, this should be somewhere between a cobra and one of those lotus 7s (caterham) when it's done.
My first american car was a 75-76 capri II with a 2.8l chain driven v6 that was the same front end as the mustang II. Bought it for $75, spent $3 for a fan, quarter for a wingnut for the PS and I drove it for years until it blew the head. I remember the brakes were dual piston which was the first time I had ever seen that set up. Had a moonroof. Great car.
As an MG owner, this is absolute sacrilege... ...and I love it. Seriously guys, stoked to see the finished build, I have a feeling this is going to be one insane Midget.
I like that you guys are in contact with al (turbo yoda) and Benny (mechanical stig) in Australia. Been a fan of all of you guys for awhile but never realized the parallel.
Just a quick note for y'all that are interested in such. The MA5 is made by Aisin and basically the same transmission found in 1jzgte chasers aka newer R154's. So bellhousings from Toyota, GM/Pontiac and Jeep/Chrysler will bolt on usually just needing to swap out the front bearing retainer to be able to use the appropriate throw out bearing. The difference between newer MA5/R154's and older R154's is the synchro design. so rebuild kits for the MA5 will fit newer JDM r154's but not older (90's R154's)
Another nice thing about body on frame, or frame on chassis as you call it, is that when the body wears out you can just bolt another one on. It's much easier to exchange any part when it breaks when its not all integrated, everything can just come apart easily. And you can switch between different body styles even since all the running gear stays beneath.
Love the project! Keep in mind the whole point of a frame is to tie the suspension points together, so you ought to get those all together while its still on the table and as square is it can be. Might start to think about where your roll cage is going to be mounted now too, you're probably going to want a 12 point to tie the whole thing together.
Already a much better project that the B is for Build Z. It's amazing what happens when you actually plan things out and use some appropriate equipment to do a job.
@@kruleworld are you serious!? I didn't get a chance to see the Z in person, but the build was not well done. I knew as soon as he tried to use that boxed chassis it was going to fail. Chris seems like a nice guy, and he has learned a lot, but that was not a build for an amateur like him. If it wasn't for his friends' welding and fabrication skills, he would have been dead in the water. I certainly can't build a quality car to a high standard, but I could build the Z with my limited knowledge.
There are still Fieros left in Canada? 😜 Also FYI: 1988 was the only model year the Fiero had a true double-wishbone front suspension. Having owned Fieros since the mid 1990s, I know a bit about them. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Also, check out my channel for Fiero suspension ideas. Yeah, that was a shameless plug.
I'm using Lebaron 11.25" rear brake rotors with Willwood D52 metric calipers on my Honda K20 swapped Fiero. Also, the fiero suspension you were wanting was '88. Anyway, you can see the set up on my channel. Blue Fiero is an '87 K20 swap, the red one is an '88 turbocharged k24 swap.
The end of part 1 talked about using a Explorer ( Sport Trac ) 8.8. This is a big heavy diff even with the aluminum housing and might be too cumbersome to deal with. Have a look at 90's T Bird / Lincoln. While these had a steel diff housing, they were 7.5 and might be enough for a light car. For the 8.8 limited slips can be found under Linc Town car / Ford Crown Vic / Ranger however the axle spline count may be different on car / truck. For the 7.5, look under Aerostar vans / older T bird, spline count should be the same. When searching for a limited slip, look at the door sticker, if the axle code has a letter, it is a limited slip. Open diffs had two numbers.
After we put the Audi on the dyno, I talked to them and they said the subi diff would be a good fit and handle the power Most are already limited slip! plentiful
Yep, and now that I think of it a Miata could be a good choice as well. Look up the web site locostusa dot com , lots of home builds there and info. I " think " there is some differential interchange between Sub and Miata or some other Japanese car. While I have you on the phone, I posted about oil pans in the part 1 of the build. (Copy paste below ) There are not many choices for oil pans. The Wrangler / Liberty might offer a shorter solution but I doubt it. If you move from a PT oil pan you must change the oil pump. Jeep and minivans have the filter on the oil pump where as the PT has the filter on the pan. I'd look really hard at a home made dry sump. Use a hydraulic pump as a single stage scavenge and stock oil pump for pressure. Also, leave the balance shaft in unless this is a full race car. With so little vehicle mass to absorb vibration, this might not be so fun to drive without balance shafts.
@@bobroberts2371 im taking out the balance shafts 100% haha Im still thinking about would to do for oiling, i figured dry sump would cost to much to make i was just going to make my own pan... but now you have me thinking
OK on the balance shaft removal. Be sure to use rubber mounts not the polyurethane spool mounts as they are too stiff. Solid mount engines are fun for a while but are a real pain to live with for any length of time. The goal is to have the engine float / vibrate a small amount then have a torque strut that keeps the engine from moving too much when under full power. Think the old drag racers trick of attaching a chain from the left cylinder head to the frame and leaving a bit of slack. The PT used this concept where the top and bottom aluminum torque arms control engine movement. Also look at any GM front drive car from the 80's up, they used one or two dog bone torque arms from engine to rad support. I've been investigating a single scavenge home made dry sump for another project The only real design issue I'm coming across is how large to size the scavenge pump. I can size it to match the oil pressure pump but its volume isn't linear due to the pressure relief and we are pumping an oil / air mixture. The solution would be to change pulley size if we are pulling too much crankcase vacuum / flooding the sump. Also, using a v belt would be plenty fine.
Fiero front suspension = Chevette EXECPT for 1988. That got a real front suspension for the last year of production. When rolling a car I attach to the seat belt
MH, I'll counter that the 88 has same front suspension. The 88 has a 2 bushing lower A arm where as the 87 - older had a single bushing lower A arm and a strut rod. Have a look at FIERO ( dot ) NL then look up " 1987 to 1988 Front Suspension swap - 1988 front suspension conversion by David Gamache Started on : 03-12-2004 12:14 AM " He does a front conversion. The biggest letdown was the clunky straight 6 turned into a 4 " Tech 4 " 2.5. Had a smoother , lighter engine been available things would have been much better. The 2.8 V6 came along and did help. However, these cars need to be judged against their contemporaries not modern cars. The Fiero started as a 2 seat economy car but was pushed into sports car land when fuel prices fell. It was also a technology demonstrator. The space frame with body part locating pads drilled on a machine was one. The other was plastic outer body panels later used on the " dust buster " vans and Saturn.
MH, no problem as I has the sports car / econo car thing reversed. While we are on the subject of mid engine cars, do a search for " Two rotor Corvette " It was based on the 914 chassis . A British classic car magazine did a story on how the writer of a Corvette history book got a call that the only steel bodied Corvette was to be crushed and was asked if he wanted the cube as a coffee table ! ! He was able to rescue the car ( sans drive line ) and eventually used a RX-7 motor to make it drive.
Bob Roberts seems very far fetched they would have built a steel body Corvette.... What would the point have been? They don't sell enough corvettes to justify the tooling to stamp out parts, and it would add weight in metal. That might not be the case if you planed to use aluminum, but there again you're hiring highly skilled metal workers to build by hand a car when there is no reason to. I'm not calling you a liar... just doesn't sound right. But GM need bailout money, so maybe they did things that would not make sense.
Robert Presti Jr do a search on You Tube for #CHEVROLET CORVETTE XP 897 GT TWO ROTOR 1973#CONCEPT CAR on the channel CONCEPT CAR Also do a search on Google for Steel body Corvette . The body was built by Pininfarina in Italy. About the only reason the 53 Corvette was fiber glass was to quickly get into production. ( As with the also fiberglass Avanti ) I don't have any firm info as to why they stuck with fiberglass but I'm suspecting it was a way to stand out over other cars. In the day, making stamping dies was very expensive, in modern times I'd think current fiberglass molds + assembly are just as expensive as a die for steel. The Corvette will likely always be fiberglass as not to offend the faithful.
Melissa Hill The car I'm speaking of is the two rotor car. It did use a 1966 / 78 Toronado front drive " 425 " transmission turned sideways with a spur gear final drive rather than a 90* hypoid final. The rescued car was found in red but I'm pretty sure it was repainted a few times for runs on the show circuit. Also, the XP 897 ( on the Porsche 914 chassis ) always had a 2 rotor.
I would use s spitfire front end, somewhat original but uses proper shocks and springs with true double wishbone, not like the midget lever arm nonsense. Mind you the last time I owned a midget was to take the engine out for s spitfire so maybe I'm biased haha. Great build I love it
Cool project. I bought a Midget at one time thinking of an electric motor conversion , but lost interest and sold it. I would like to build one some day, but it will be flat out light. Motorcycle or snowmobile engines. would be cool to have it all wheel drive with an engine to power each wheel with a snowmobile set up. That way you can only have one or as many wheels and engines running as you want depending on what you want to do.
You can make some decent horsepower with the stock tiny turbo, but if it were me I would get my hands on an aftermarket turbo manifold, a T3 Super 60, some larger injectors, and a good tune after yall get it built.
Would you consider using a MGB front suspension and cross member? It is bolt on and has the correct tracking for a Midget. Nice project. Look forward to the progress.
I think its crown vic that has a front end you could use i think that the car its either that or Chrysler i cant remember but they get used in alot of custom builds for the versatility
@@Projectblackkjack Thanks Stefan. Hope it turns out great. Always wanted to put that engine in my sandrail but went the simple route with the old aircooled vw.
Hey MCM. The 2.4 is an evolution of the K car 2.2 / 2.5 . The bell housing is the same except for the left lower bolt / dowel. The crank pattern is same as 8 bolt 2.2 / 2.5 ( Early 2.2 has 6 bolt crank ) Have a look at neons dot org then search for " Ram 50 Sport 2.4 swap " . They are using an early Dakota manual trans.
MCM you are welcome. I looked at my spare 06 PT auto trans, it has a dowel hole for the 2.2 / 2.5 left bolt. I wonder if the Neon 2.0 uses the 2.2 / 2.5 pattern and one case was made for the 2.0 / 2.4 . Having a multi case trans makes it super easy to make an adapter strap, just use the trans as a pattern. . . . . In other news, I'm just starting to investigate putting a 2.4 against a 2.6 ( Mitsu ) " Baby " TF904 trans. The only rear drive 2.4 pattern auto is a 4 speed Ultradrive that I don't want to use due to weight and the 2.2 Dakota was never made in an auto.
Would it be possible for you to send me a list of what you used to connect the srt4 motor to the transmission? I got the turbo pt motor and I just got my ma5 transmission not sure what to use for clutch and rest of the parts!
Almost hurts to watch you roll over the fiero. Should have looked for a 88 fiero suspension instead. Great idea to go to a tube chassis on the mg, since you did ALL that cutting to get in the Chrysler turbo motor.
the crossmember from a crown vic is often used for hot rods , it is an aluminium piece with a rack and pinnion steering atached , dont know the trackwidth
As someone fairly familiar with Spridgets, it would be about 2 feet too wide. I think some people forget diminutive they are. Imagine a smart car, flattened to the thinkness of a pancake by an obese African bull elephant, and then drizzled with hydrochloric acid until the roof melts off.
@@ForeverNeverwhere1 hmmmm the smart car crossmember is aluminium too and has a rack and pinion seering , its light too , just realy small brakes a 3 lug setup
Reminds me of a 69 opel gt I put a 2.3 turbo couple motor in it.... It was hell! Too tall too heavy too much power you could blow the rear end if you hit the gas hard enough. It was red. It was scary to drive and inposible to keep straight custom everything and the tunnel was so beat up you could read the serial number off of the tranny. Then there was wiring......
![It's An Educational Experience! Turbo SRT4 RWD '73 MG Midget [EP3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bqXnAmAxKTE/mqdefault.jpg)
![It's An Educational Experience! Turbo SRT4 RWD '73 MG Midget [EP3]](/img/tr.png)
![BUDGET RACE CAR: Turbo SRT4 RWD '73 MG Midget [EP1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I6MjI1jDE68/mqdefault.jpg)
I just wanted to say thank you for all your input, I read all of them and take them in consideration
No problem, glad to help.
check out www.welderseries.com/ if your looking for a mustang II kit. just used one on my willys and it was perfect. And they are out of Toronto... no import stuff...imgur.com/user/mkfn4071 here are some pictures
@@ACELABUTSA I looked at there stuff it looks good, I even talked to them, but they only have a two piece crossmember and I'd like one, I'm just going to make one
ah ok cool well i am interested to see the progress of the build looks like alot of fun. good luck
hey man Ive been building a mid engine Midget with full tube chassis. You might be interested in taking a look at it. Shoot me a DM or something.
Love how Rich makes a good proper race car that with some money and sponsors and a few buds is good and reliable Altho is abit sketchy. And Stefan builds a race car with almost none of that but pretty much anyone can do it at home. With jack stands and a welder. This is why I love this channel
FINALLY YES STEFAN
Stoked to see this project get built
This looks like a fantastic project guys. Looking forward to seeing it come together.
''We are going with inch and a half by two inch .... because thats what I got the best deal on.'' . I'm dead. You guys make me laugh so hard.
OMG! I thought this was long gone and forgotten about! I was stoked to find this project, its why I originally subbed!
🙏Please don't follow the Binky style upload schedule.
🎩
😁
👔
Dont plan on it, I was getting some parts and steel before I could really start at it
@@mumbles005 i'm going to build my own intake and exhaust, i've already have the flanges to make the exhaust side just have to get to that point and the pt is still at my house
@@mumbles005 if you watch the 1st video you'd see that he already addressed this issue. Was even joking about it. Not bad advice though. I was thinking about doing this combo but with the r154 tranny. Between the intake and input shaft length issues it was too much trouble. Thats why I was so stoked to see Stefan M's video. See how he dealt with it.
@@mumbles005 Mumbʟes005 yup, precisely why I didn't bother even starting Lol. I agree, this should be somewhere between a cobra and one of those lotus 7s (caterham) when it's done.
My first american car was a 75-76 capri II with a 2.8l chain driven v6 that was the same front end as the mustang II. Bought it for $75, spent $3 for a fan, quarter for a wingnut for the PS and I drove it for years until it blew the head. I remember the brakes were dual piston which was the first time I had ever seen that set up. Had a moonroof. Great car.
As an MG owner, this is absolute sacrilege...
...and I love it. Seriously guys, stoked to see the finished build, I have a feeling this is going to be one insane Midget.
Don't you mean "fabulous sacrilege"? 😀
@@davidcrouch3226 Of course I do! This is going to be one interesting car for sure.
Love watching the two of you work on this project! Long way to go but it's all about the journey. The destination won't suck either LOL.
Been waiting for this since I saw this car. I have owned a couple of Midgets but never actually got one on the road.
I like that you guys are in contact with al (turbo yoda) and Benny (mechanical stig) in Australia. Been a fan of all of you guys for awhile but never realized the parallel.
Deboss garage knocking it out the park again! Channel is really coming in to its own! Keep up the good work fellas
Just a quick note for y'all that are interested in such. The MA5 is made by Aisin and basically the same transmission found in 1jzgte chasers aka newer R154's. So bellhousings from Toyota, GM/Pontiac and Jeep/Chrysler will bolt on usually just needing to swap out the front bearing retainer to be able to use the appropriate throw out bearing. The difference between newer MA5/R154's and older R154's is the synchro design. so rebuild kits for the MA5 will fit newer JDM r154's but not older (90's R154's)
Love all the precise engineering terms you guys use. ---- almost, sorta, etc
it's a blast watching you two work 😂
quote onquote "work" LOL
Triangular bracing wherever you can if you're tracking with lots of horsepower.
When I had my Fiero It was my understanding that the front suspension was sourced from a Chevette.
Thanks for the update guys! Love that it is diy...
Another nice thing about body on frame, or frame on chassis as you call it, is that when the body wears out you can just bolt another one on. It's much easier to exchange any part when it breaks when its not all integrated, everything can just come apart easily. And you can switch between different body styles even since all the running gear stays beneath.
Stefan is freaking awesome. Thanks rich!
I am stoked for this build!
Good work Deboss and Jack Black!
Love the project!
Keep in mind the whole point of a frame is to tie the suspension points together, so you ought to get those all together while its still on the table and as square is it can be.
Might start to think about where your roll cage is going to be mounted now too, you're probably going to want a 12 point to tie the whole thing together.
Already thinking of that we will start building up, I still have lots of box steel and 1x1 to add in
Good stuff guys verry inspiring this is by far my favorite build its one ive been dreaming of for years now you guys are doin it to a tee
Definitely looking forward to seeing more of this monstrosity.
for the shifter you may think about doing it like a Shelby cobra to the front and down from what it is know.
Already a much better project that the B is for Build Z. It's amazing what happens when you actually plan things out and use some appropriate equipment to do a job.
I'd hardly call that 'back of the napkin' sketch as "planning". besides, Chris' Z came out fantastic.
@@kruleworld are you serious!? I didn't get a chance to see the Z in person, but the build was not well done. I knew as soon as he tried to use that boxed chassis it was going to fail. Chris seems like a nice guy, and he has learned a lot, but that was not a build for an amateur like him. If it wasn't for his friends' welding and fabrication skills, he would have been dead in the water. I certainly can't build a quality car to a high standard, but I could build the Z with my limited knowledge.
Enjoy seeing a new project start!
WOO! been waiting for this project to begin :)
great first video! might be good to name it "episode 2" and so on, so we can find them later
There are still Fieros left in Canada? 😜
Also FYI: 1988 was the only model year the Fiero had a true double-wishbone front suspension. Having owned Fieros since the mid 1990s, I know a bit about them. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Also, check out my channel for Fiero suspension ideas. Yeah, that was a shameless plug.
I'm using Lebaron 11.25" rear brake rotors with Willwood D52 metric calipers on my Honda K20 swapped Fiero. Also, the fiero suspension you were wanting was '88. Anyway, you can see the set up on my channel. Blue Fiero is an '87 K20 swap, the red one is an '88 turbocharged k24 swap.
Hell yeah I'm psyched for this build!
This will definitely be a cool build so lets see lots more of this and I hope that you guys also juice up the motor as well.
Why is Jack Black not using a tape boss? Love this build
Did he even measure something there? :D
Certainly Jack Black’s brother.
He's the Jack Black of hot rodders.
So Keen to see how this turns out :D Drop everything else and just make this car please!
Hell yeah!!! SRT-4 parts content!!!
This is going to be a sweet build
Super cool project, definitely gonna follow this. I hope it’s gonna be as nice as the Audi.
Looking forward for the next video! Cool project.
way back in 2005 my high school shop class used a fiero front suspension on a project and had no issues with it
Cool project. Looking forward to more...
Love it!Bring on all the episodes
Awesome, great progress!
Mid 90' s ford escorts have adjustable front and rear a arms ,maybe worth checking out?
The end of part 1 talked about using a Explorer ( Sport Trac ) 8.8. This is a big heavy diff even with the aluminum housing and might be too cumbersome to deal with. Have a look at 90's T Bird / Lincoln. While these had a steel diff housing, they were 7.5 and might be enough for a light car. For the 8.8 limited slips can be found under Linc Town car / Ford Crown Vic / Ranger however the axle spline count may be different on car / truck. For the 7.5, look under Aerostar vans / older T bird, spline count should be the same. When searching for a limited slip, look at the door sticker, if the axle code has a letter, it is a limited slip. Open diffs had two numbers.
After we put the Audi on the dyno, I talked to them and they said the subi diff would be a good fit and handle the power
Most are already limited slip! plentiful
Yep, and now that I think of it a Miata could be a good choice as well. Look up the web site locostusa dot com , lots of home builds there and info. I " think " there is some differential interchange between Sub and Miata or some other Japanese car. While I have you on the phone, I posted about oil pans in the part 1 of the build. (Copy paste below )
There are not many choices for oil pans. The Wrangler / Liberty might
offer a shorter solution but I doubt it. If you move from a PT oil pan
you must change the oil pump. Jeep and minivans have the filter on the
oil pump where as the PT has the filter on the pan. I'd look really
hard at a home made dry sump. Use a hydraulic pump as a single stage
scavenge and stock oil pump for pressure.
Also, leave the balance shaft in unless this is a full race car. With
so little vehicle mass to absorb vibration, this might not be so fun to
drive without balance shafts.
@@bobroberts2371 im taking out the balance shafts 100% haha
Im still thinking about would to do for oiling, i figured dry sump would cost to much to make
i was just going to make my own pan... but now you have me thinking
OK on the balance shaft removal. Be sure to use rubber mounts not the polyurethane spool mounts as they are too stiff. Solid mount engines are fun for a while but are a real pain to live with for any length of time.
The goal is to have the engine float / vibrate a small amount then have a torque strut that keeps the engine from moving too much when under full power. Think the old drag racers trick of attaching a chain from the left cylinder head to the frame and leaving a bit of slack.
The PT used this concept where the top and bottom aluminum torque arms control engine movement. Also look at any GM front drive car from the 80's up, they used one or two dog bone torque arms from engine to rad support.
I've been investigating a single scavenge home made dry sump for another project The only real design issue I'm coming across is how large to size the scavenge pump. I can size it to match the oil pressure pump but its volume isn't linear due to the pressure relief and we are pumping an oil / air mixture. The solution would be to change pulley size if we are pulling too much crankcase vacuum / flooding the sump. Also, using a v belt would be plenty fine.
man you guys crack me up .back to work ! lol
I wish I could give this a thousand more thumbs up
Fiero front suspension = Chevette EXECPT for 1988. That got a real front suspension for the last year of production. When rolling a car I attach to the seat belt
MH, I'll counter that the 88 has same front suspension. The 88 has a 2 bushing lower A arm where as the 87 - older had a single bushing lower A arm and a strut rod. Have a look at FIERO ( dot ) NL then look up " 1987 to 1988 Front Suspension swap - 1988 front suspension conversion by David Gamache Started on : 03-12-2004 12:14 AM " He does a front conversion.
The biggest letdown was the clunky straight 6 turned into a 4 " Tech 4 " 2.5. Had a smoother , lighter engine been available things would have been much better. The 2.8 V6 came along and did help. However, these cars need to be judged against their contemporaries not modern cars.
The Fiero started as a 2 seat economy car but was pushed into sports car land when fuel prices fell. It was also a technology demonstrator. The space frame with body part locating pads drilled on a machine was one. The other was plastic outer body panels later used on the " dust buster " vans and Saturn.
MH, no problem as I has the sports car / econo car thing reversed.
While we are on the subject of mid engine cars, do a search for " Two rotor Corvette " It was based on the 914 chassis . A British classic car magazine did a story on how the writer of a Corvette history book got a call that the only steel bodied Corvette was to be crushed and was asked if he wanted the cube as a coffee table ! ! He was able to rescue the car ( sans drive line ) and eventually used a RX-7 motor to make it drive.
Bob Roberts seems very far fetched they would have built a steel body Corvette.... What would the point have been? They don't sell enough corvettes to justify the tooling to stamp out parts, and it would add weight in metal. That might not be the case if you planed to use aluminum, but there again you're hiring highly skilled metal workers to build by hand a car when there is no reason to. I'm not calling you a liar... just doesn't sound right. But GM need bailout money, so maybe they did things that would not make sense.
Robert Presti Jr do a search on You Tube for #CHEVROLET CORVETTE XP 897 GT TWO ROTOR 1973#CONCEPT CAR on the channel CONCEPT CAR Also do a search on Google for Steel body Corvette . The body was built by Pininfarina in Italy.
About the only reason the 53 Corvette was fiber glass was to quickly get into production. ( As with the also fiberglass Avanti ) I don't have any firm info as to why they stuck with fiberglass but I'm suspecting it was a way to stand out over other cars. In the day, making stamping dies was very expensive, in modern times I'd think current fiberglass molds + assembly are just as expensive as a die for steel.
The Corvette will likely always be fiberglass as not to offend the faithful.
Melissa Hill The car I'm speaking of is the two rotor car. It did use a 1966 / 78 Toronado front drive " 425 " transmission turned sideways with a spur gear final drive rather than a 90* hypoid final. The rescued car was found in red but I'm pretty sure it was repainted a few times for runs on the show circuit. Also, the XP 897 ( on the Porsche 914 chassis ) always had a 2 rotor.
Love this project already...
Dude you are Hilarious. Its like Sam Kinnison & Jack Black had a child . . . . . You 've won a sub
Love the San Rafael bennie !
Common Rich round is a shape!😁 nice to see this making some progress!
I would use s spitfire front end, somewhat original but uses proper shocks and springs with true double wishbone, not like the midget lever arm nonsense. Mind you the last time I owned a midget was to take the engine out for s spitfire so maybe I'm biased haha. Great build I love it
Cool project. I bought a Midget at one time thinking of an electric motor conversion , but lost interest and sold it. I would like to build one some day, but it will be flat out light. Motorcycle or snowmobile engines. would be cool to have it all wheel drive with an engine to power each wheel with a snowmobile set up. That way you can only have one or as many wheels and engines running as you want depending on what you want to do.
Cant wait to see it drive
cool build, please keep us up to date on it
Very cool will be following this build!
So stoked!!
This car project is the exact polar opposite of Rob Dahm's 4 rotor RX7.😬. Both cooler than hell though!
You can make some decent horsepower with the stock tiny turbo, but if it were me I would get my hands on an aftermarket turbo manifold, a T3 Super 60, some larger injectors, and a good tune after yall get it built.
Won't really need more power, seriously it's gonna weight like 12 kg wet
That's funny, I made a road legal trailer and skids with frames from kioti crates too 😂
OK, I'm hooked!
You guys are fun!
Good one Stefan recon this project should expand you imagination a bit😉😊👍👍
Would you consider using a MGB front suspension and cross member? It is bolt on and has the correct tracking for a Midget. Nice project. Look forward to the progress.
are you sure? the MGB is 3" wider in track than the Spridget, and I don't see how it could be bolt-on, they are quite different cars.
Just so everyone knows No squirrels or thongs where harmed in the making of this video! So Peta and those guys at Fruit of the loom can relax.
I think its crown vic that has a front end you could use i think that the car its either that or Chrysler i cant remember but they get used in alot of custom builds for the versatility
I woul like to see this at British car day in Burlington next September. If they accept DMC as a British car, this should be fine.
Rad project boys.
Amazing how much room are in those little MG's
amazingly little; the Spitfire was cavernous by comparison.
Yes!
Hey Rich....the 2.4 was a direct bolt on to the Liberty trans? Got my curiosity for sure.
It's an 03 liberty bellhousing
They had the 2.4 in them for a few years only
The trans is ar5 from a Colorado
@@Projectblackkjack Thanks Stefan. Hope it turns out great. Always wanted to put that engine in my sandrail but went the simple route with the old aircooled vw.
Hey MCM. The 2.4 is an evolution of the K car 2.2 / 2.5 . The bell housing is the same except for the left lower bolt / dowel. The crank pattern is same as 8 bolt 2.2 / 2.5 ( Early 2.2 has 6 bolt crank ) Have a look at neons dot org then search for " Ram 50 Sport 2.4 swap " . They are using an early Dakota manual trans.
@@bobroberts2371 Many thanks for the info Bob!
MCM you are welcome. I looked at my spare 06 PT auto trans, it has a dowel hole for the 2.2 / 2.5 left bolt. I wonder if the Neon 2.0 uses the 2.2 / 2.5 pattern and one case was made for the 2.0 / 2.4 . Having a multi case trans makes it super easy to make an adapter strap, just use the trans as a pattern. . . . . In other news, I'm just starting to investigate putting a 2.4 against a 2.6 ( Mitsu ) " Baby " TF904 trans. The only rear drive 2.4 pattern auto is a 4 speed Ultradrive that I don't want to use due to weight and the 2.2 Dakota was never made in an auto.
Love the new car!
74' and up Mustang ll or Pinto Front suspension is what you want
The 88 fiero is the nice one. Redesigned suspension eh?
Would it be possible for you to send me a list of what you used to connect the srt4 motor to the transmission? I got the turbo pt motor and I just got my ma5 transmission not sure what to use for clutch and rest of the parts!
I love your channel guys, This MG build makes me laugh, what happened to the philosophy of " Simplify & Add Lightness" ??????
going project binky , but deboss way
Mustang II is a really popular front end swap, nobody steered you wrong. Forgive the pun, could not help it.
Good friends and a great vid.
yessss
Cool build
You have a pink chute?
cool, I'm kinda doing the same thing
Almost hurts to watch you roll over the fiero. Should have looked for a 88 fiero suspension instead. Great idea to go to a tube chassis on the mg, since you did ALL that cutting to get in the Chrysler turbo motor.
There wasnt much left on the fiero I saved what I needed before it got crushed, I knew I'd have beef it up a bit
the crossmember from a crown vic is often used for hot rods , it is an aluminium piece with a rack and pinnion steering atached , dont know the trackwidth
I looked at one it's to much work and to big to fit
As someone fairly familiar with Spridgets, it would be about 2 feet too wide. I think some people forget diminutive they are. Imagine a smart car, flattened to the thinkness of a pancake by an obese African bull elephant, and then drizzled with hydrochloric acid until the roof melts off.
@@ForeverNeverwhere1 hmmmm the smart car crossmember is aluminium too and has a rack and pinion seering , its light too , just realy small brakes a 3 lug setup
You need a big blue jig.
Any updates available for the Midget project?
I moved it back to my place and I'm ordering some steel
Where is Stefan's 'Tape Boss'???
Should have put that SRT engine in the Fiero. And, screw Jack Black, we have Stefan!
Project Binky!!!!! Dream on ;)
Oh there going duramax front end tolerances. I see how it is.
Why do you have a cut out of Philip Glenister?
He’s from our Audi series
Reminds me of a 69 opel gt I put a 2.3 turbo couple motor in it.... It was hell! Too tall too heavy too much power you could blow the rear end if you hit the gas hard enough. It was red. It was scary to drive and inposible to keep straight custom everything and the tunnel was so beat up you could read the serial number off of the tranny. Then there was wiring......
mate you have to flip it over so i can understand what ya doing , im in Australia aye
I have a design to move that shifter lever forward
Let's see it!
+Stefan M anyway for me to email the drawings?
+Stefan M but it's easy to make
Send to debossgarage@gmail.com
+DEBOSS GARAGE any luck with the remote shifter idea I sent you?
Mustang 2 front end might do ya good
is this gonna be a 6 month project that turns into a 4 year project like binky?
Families, full time jobs, and finances all play a part. Wish we all had nothing better to do than build toys but we aren't there yet
Those fiero front ends are from the chevette, so it’s kinda like a corvette
The last year of production , 88 got an upgraded suspension.