We make our own body panels for a Lada
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 พ.ค. 2024
- Grab some G54 merch here - www.en.garage54.ru/
In this episode we test our vacuum forming machine with something a bit more complicated than an oil pan.
Our instagram / garage__54 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Cyril is a natural at presenting content for this channel! Of course we all miss Vlad and hope he recovers soon, but good to see the channel is in safe hands in the meantime 😊
what happened?
@@danielhobson5795 he’s sick right now
Noo! Get well Vlad!
When did he get sick tho?
The problem with Cyrill is that he doesn't say blyat
New host is doing great but it feels weird to not hear a “Hey Fellas” at the start
Agreed
He isn't new, this video is 5 months old.
He IS doing great but I miss hearing, "LET'S DO THIS!"
p.s. Get Well Soon, Vlad!
@@EM4CZ it was published yesterday lol
@@ryanm4319 Or do you think this is their only channel ? :D :D :D :D
Learn some russian language.
I used to do this for a company in Wisconsin we made front ends for NASCAR/sprint cars. After we cut the parts out, the insides were sprayed with fiberglass for rigidity. You could do a single layup inside that and it would work great.
reliants in UK all made out of fibreglass ;)
So i can make my car lighter this way?
@@punker4Real yeah these panels should be lighter
@@punker4Real More importantly rust free, too.
i did that with "body" of my 1/5 scale RC car roughly a decade ago. it's hard a rock, so to say ... although somewhat heavier.
There's a Lada potential with a vacuum forming machine. Many videos will come from this I'm sure. But they won't be Russian them out.
*Golf Clap*
hahaaaaa!
I saw whatu did there 🙄🙄
Bahahahahaha...great🙈🙈😂😂😂
Get out.
Fcuking legends!!! honstley just love how real this channel is
Fuck. It's a real word. Speak as you please. Fuck censorship.
TH-cam is great, despite how much Google hates it!
but if i change it now ive added your censorship. ;)
@@bomt6259 Ha!
@@RandyRandersonthefamous They are ran by the same people.. Why do you think youtube account is linked to your gmail. Same as PayPal and eBay.
I love to see other ppl from the group hosting videos. Cyril is making fantastic job, i like this. By far, one of the best youtube car channels out there
He is, but imho hes explaining simple things a bit too detailed.
Pekka, your Finnis Inglis is not too good.
Wish you a speedy recovery Vlad, the new host is good though
I feel like Cyril has always been good at explaining mechanical details. Vlad will always be the best host though. Hope he recovers quickly.
speedy recovery from what?
@@schwuzi its nobody's business. Vlad can tell everyone himself what's happened if he feels like it. Its not his friends job to go around telling the world Vlad's private info.
Get well soon Vlad
@@jameslesswalk and I simply said its nobody's business. Read your comment and direct it to yourself. 🤦♂️
New presenter is awesome, really honest, showing all the mistakes, and his concerns on cold weather. Newer the less, Vlad get well soon.
Getting the plastic hot enough is SUPER important. A good tip is also to drill small holes in the mould around places like sharp edges where the vacuum struggles to get to. Getting the technique to do good parts every time takes some practice, but you quickly learn how it works and what to do to get the best result.
Hey. Thanks for the tip, I work in a team trying to make car bumpers with by vacuum thermoforming, and it took us a while to figure those out. Do you have any tips for trimming intricately shaped parts out precisely and neatly?
You can run those lamps on car batteries in a series parallel wiring configuration. Car batteries carry a lat of amps and those lights will run on dc as well as they can run on ac. problem solved. I wish you a speedy recovery,we love you here in America.
Guess its 230V lamps...so that would be 20 batteries (possibly 19). Even conecting only half of them would be 1.2kW per battery.
That is fine for 15 or 30 seconds.. but for 3-4 minutes. Probobly would need to go litium for this one. Can also be charged a lot faster.
Sixty batteries three set of 20. But it would require ac for the vacuum pump, no problem with a vfd
Sounds like a UPS system. We used a whole building UPS,. 10 batteries wired in series, and four stacks of batteries wired in parallel.
@@dennisford2000 they would only need half of them to go on batery... that would save a lot.
84-87 Honda CRX fenders are made from plastic right from the factory. They all break as they are old now and brittle. Making new ones with this machine… you would make a killing.
Just like Saturn, they are basically all plastic.
Huh I didn't know they were plastic in those years. At least the other models were metal since I drive a 3d gen honda lol.
@@arigato.collect Oh yea? What do they cost?
RedPepperRacing ring a bell?
@@Naitrio yep it’s a CRX thing. Even the front nose piece between the headlights is plastic and breaks all apart. It’s called a “header panel” on the CRX.
@@lookingbehind6335 All of the Saturns body was plastic, minus the roof, trunk, and hood. They called it “dent resistant body panels” in their advertising. The only thing plastic on the first gen CRX was the fenders and front nose piece.
Fun Fact:The CRX Si spoiler was made of rubbery foam. Like a nerf football.
It would be epic if you could vacuum form the entire body in one mold. It would be like a giant RC car.
That would be rad but to make full panels and reinforcement grid would be better suited to moulding individual pieces and air welding the panels together just like the steel ones but using the right plastics you could make a structure stronger than steel and way lighter
Would be just like a saturn. Those were popular here in Canada because there's no rust. Even my BMW 650i had plastic front fenders right from the factory. The main problem with putting plastic where it doesn't belong however is structural rigidity. It's best to put fiberglass reinforcement wherever you see multiple plys of metal in the original panel. This will help compensate.
Love the technical details Cyril, keep up the good work.
hope the big boss a quick recovery
have idea what's wrong 🥺🥺🥺🥺🥺🥺
same
Great job on presenting this video, Hope the big man is feeling well soon.
It would only be 1mm different
I don't think Vlad is only 1mm bigger than Cyril
@@egafx 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
This is very good because of the weight saved, but there have been MANY attempts to make cars from plastics and fibers, and they all have a bad result: When you leave the car exposed to the sun for some time, the plastic part will deform and lose alignment and design. It is really difficult and expensive to overcome this problem.
Just a bonus: Even after advances in industry and engineering studies, there were cars that lasted many years exposed to the sun, but after 5 or 8 years they would become misaligned. The car part that has seen the most advances in the last 40 years is the dashboard, which can now withstand high temperatures through the windshield for an acceptable number of years.
Anyway, to achieve this type of advancement, you couldn't just stamp the plastic on the vacuum table, you would need a gigantic plastic molding machine, with a sculpted steel mold weighing a few tons to create the most resistant polymer part. , controlled temperature, and total vacuum.
Saturn did ABS doors, they used to crack open! something like 1/8"
I think Cyril likes hosting?!
I love to see other ppl from the group hosting videos. Cyril is making fantastic job, i like this.
How did you find his name?
hes doing a good job thats sure hehe
@@omega1575 I’ve been watching them for years and Zlad said his name on several occasions.
@@omega1575 Cyril also presents more often on the PRO Garage 54 channel, where he has to do Wheeler Dealer type challenges, such as finding a turbocharged saloon for under 1000$ and fixing it up for a profit, or finding an automatic car for under 1000$ or finding a nice Volga for cheap etc
I used to work at a plastic recycling facility, for super strong plastic car parts that can candle impacts, heat and cold, we made Fiberglass reinforced PP, but regular PP is really good for it too
ABS can be glued. Much harder to glue PP and EPDM. I assume it would have to be heat welded if anything were to be attached to PP. But FG reinforced? Really surprising ! Was it Polyester FG, or Epoxy based? Thks
young man did a great job presenting. thanks cyril
a custom bodykit with it! Or maybe try to modernize a lada.
+
Rocket bunny style wide body Lada!
Cyril is smart AF,, go for it 💪🏿
How's the sizing of the copied part? I think to get it bang on you'd need to mold the inside of the component to make a former, that way the wing or door or what ever would be the same size as the steel version.
Hey its now 2mm wide body conversion ;)
It would be perfect for wide body kits 😉
How many Ladas are bang on?
@@kobbetop I was thinking about other cars..where new steel parts are like gold to find.. plastic ones would never rot. If you get the sizing right and right paint.. better than steel ones!
I’m pretty sure the plastic will shrink to the right size when it cools
Good content, Interesting to see vacuum formed panels. They came out nicely, you did a good job on them.
Love the channel. Super cool machine! The potential is endless. It would be cool to see a dashboard cover made to the drift missile
you can replace all parts and make it soo much lighter! perfect for this kind of cars.
Carbon is over rated... lets go plastic... 🤣
This is freaking GENIUS. Makes total sense (esp with a tube frame / roll cage)
The FOAM he used is from SEALED AIR (I owned one for shipping / packing).
Get well soon vlad Cyril is great just want to see everybody back doing projects together also I miss the intro vlad does..
Great video Cyril! That’s one neat machine there, and I can see how it can be useful to make all kinds of things! As for the power consumption of the lights, I do wonder if you could come up with some alternative way to power them, or at least some of them to relieve the burden on your mains grid….
On a side note, I hope Vlad is feeling better, and is able to be in the videos soon.
Looks really good and for weight saving in competition would make it much faster. Not sure how you would fare in an accident mind. Cyril's a natural - Great presentation, really interesting
Yeah, he is doing an excellent job hosting the channel. I always thought he was pretty good when he was explaining things in the past year.
I love this channel. Followed these for years. Maybe from the beginning.
You can spray the parts with Ed-40 and it will release easier
Please give us an update on Vlad next video. Hopefully he is feeling better.
This video was made in february/march, this isn't the newest video on the channel.
Look here th-cam.com/users/c%D0%93%D0%B0%D1%80%D0%B0%D0%B654/videos
@@EM4CZ nice try. Reported.
@@NavyVeteran1776 ???
He actually linked you the original channel in russian, what the f do you mean "nice try"? 🤦♂️
@@vanclyde the link tried to send me out of TH-cam. Only time I have seen that is when someone is trying to give people a virus or something. If it’s the original video that’s fine.
@@NavyVeteran1776 Well i clicked it, and it's the garage 54 russian channel... on youtube. So yea, reporting for absolutely nothing lol
1st thing is congratulations on learning the vacuum form. It can create many objects. Those fenders look awesome. Can't wait for a video on them. Perhaps regular fenders vs plastic fenders.
you guys now need to turn the abs plastic panel upsidedown and then make panels on the inside and it will suit the original panel size. you may also be able to put the mounts back in.
or try to make an inside copy then make the outside copy from that. also that machine was a great price for what it can do.
This is a cool episode! Quick comment about ABS body panels in general... The coatings applied make a big difference in the rigidity and longevity of the panel. For a show car, A quality adpro (adhesion promoter) to etch the plastic before doing a primer coat and paint is very important. Otherwise in cold temperatures a regular paint can flake when the panel flexes. OR for a rough and tumble tough car, go over it with a bedliner type spray inside and out and then apply a vinyl graphic for even better toughness. Looking forward to seeing the "ABS-U-Lada" completed!
I always wanted to make a vacuum forming table, it's on the list.
And, making my own plastic sheets from ground up different types of plastic to use with it.
It's tricky stuff to dial in at first your getting ideal results.
Now use it to make fancy modded fenders and hoods etc.
Make a thermal formed microcar, your own version of the Chinese electric J2.
This is where having thermalforming can shape the future, make a Ford Mustang looking LADA.
Keep on rocking
Windshield bonding glue should bond them to the chassis. You could bond aluminium strips to the inside of the 1mm panels to add a little rigidity and strength.
Remember the see-through LADA, imagine how cool that would have been if these technique was used to make the transparent sections.
Add some draft angles on the edges of the mold to aid in your mold release and minimize vaccum blowouts. Great video!
Well done junior. Keep up the good work.
When I was a kid in the 60s I had a Mattel Vac-U-Form kit.
Just like yours only smaller!
limited to about 4” x 4” maybe a little less.
very cool machine, I know from much smaller vacuum machines you need to warm the plastic till its almost drooping too much to keep it soft enough to get a good shape on the mould without wrinkles.
Great video. I love the new invention of making parts of plastic and don't even know. Would be nice to make the interior include the seats. Thank you all.
veeeeeery interesting , thinking on making a moped with a raincovering and this seems to make making the panels a lot eazier , the machine needed for it is probably pricey for only making a few panels , i can immagine that making panels for racecars that get realy abused will start returning the cost for the machine pretty fast
To test them in freezing temps, put a small piece in the freezer.
I had a miniature version of this machine when I was a kid. I made all kinds of Hotwheels bodies to put onto Aurora AFX cars.
Good luck trying to paint or stick anything to HDPE, I think you'd have a better chance with butter.
Satisfying watching the vacuum process
Thank you very much for this thorough presentation
Also, you could just pull out a portion of the lamps for running in the 45kW configuration. 30 kW is still 2/3 of the intended heat, it might work if heated longer.
Badass! Your videos are great fellas...keep'em coming!
love your keeping ladas alive, a few things to help you. my CNC machine takes a lot more power than the circuit can handle like your table, so I bought a used 5000 amp generator which I run when I'm using it this would let you use all the lamps, if you do decide you want to use thin sheets you could reinforce them like your molds (tape plastic to the car spray with foam press on your fender cut away excess this will stop it from bonding with the body of the car to replace it if you damage it, you vac machine is very nice but the middle bar is not applying enough pressure to hold the plastic you need some way to make a clamp there better for thicker material, and my last thought is what else to do there was a guy who made large model battle ship hulls 3 ft long filled with foam and an opening in the back for motor and controllers which he sold to builders who wanted to race model hydrofoils or fight sim battles see if there is an interest the modeler builds the top (not sure but I expect he puts in weights in the bottom to stabilize wasn't shown)
I'd love to see an all plastic Lada, like all of the parts that can be replaced with plastic being made of plastic. I'd imagine that would be much, much lighter than stock, and would probably look the same.
That's some great work there! Maybe you guy's can make a whole car out plastic! Wishing Vlad a speedy recovery!🙏👌😎👍
I think for smooth it out you need blow thorch (or electric heater) and ruler like for wallpaper to squezze the plastic in.
Vacuum forming is a simple process, but as you've seen: the thinner the material, the more contours come out in the plastic and the thicker the material, the more rigid the plastic is but it loses the detail. Consider raising the mould to allow for mounting brackets on the plastic to connect it to the car. You can bond fins and strengtheners to thin sheets to prevent it from rippling or warping. Additionally, as soon as the plastic starts to bow, it is ready to be vacuum formed. Make sure you have enough excess material so the vacuum form doesn't leak and then distort as it cools. Consider a mould release agent on plastic sheets that are more likely to get attached to the mould. You can always shave off the excess material later.
one problem from vacuum forming is the mold is not the original dimensions, using for example 2mm thick sheet ,means panel will be 2mm larger on all dimensions, not a problems for a shitter , all the shut lines and gaps would be fuked. however its is a neat way of forming air boxes , scoops. modded panels etc..
Keep up the interesting projects...we love you in Dallas Texas...
That is looking good, plenty of potential in it. I will say from experience that HDPE is terrible for springing back unless you keep it fully clamped until stone cold. Probably not the plastic for this job.
I sued to work in the thermoforming department of a plastic factory making ute canopies and sportlids, we also made bed liners and cargo liners. Very similar tech but way scaled up and much older and actually less versatile. This is sick.
And I've always loved 2104s always wanted a siberian longback racing pig
All kinds of tricks to getting nice parts out of vacuum forming. The draft angles coming off of the mold and the orientation of the mold on the bed can greatly affect the quality of the part...or even if it can be made, depending on the complexity, draft, etc.
You have to drill small vacuum holes to the corners of shapes in mold to get better results. 😊 -Plastic mechanic from Finland
Cyril loves to explain everything detailed and simple for viewers and we love that
Meanwhile Vlad is a bit lazy 😆
Jokes aside, get well soon Vlad!
Wishing vlad the best of luck. Good job Cyril
This machine is fantastic what you can do is wrap the metal panels as long as they are straight it doesn’t matter what they look like because you can wrap them. So you don’t need to undent, puddy, or cut out rust just wrap it!!! SWEET!!!
You could use it over the top of body panels, as well. It would clean up a car quickly. Good job guys!
I know this is 2 years old but.. the thing to do would be to vacuum form an inner and outter mold. instead on cutting the plastic and using that as the fender, keep it intact so you gan pour in a solution that hardens into a fender.. youd be able to easily install mounting brackets that way too
I think making a dashboard or cluster would be really amazing
Also i feel that you do not need to alter your pitch if there is only one presenter, but when there is two it makes the conversation much easier to follow.
Best upgrade they could make would be to add a battery bank to power the entire lighting system, and then make the vacuum tank twice as big. These fellas are pretty innovative and will get this figured out eventually.
I’d love to see an entire Lada made out of plastic, frame and all. If they drill out the spot welds of the frame they could actually make every single chassis and body part using this machine, but it’d be pretty bouncy as a drift car.
Best bet for temperature resistance and stability would be a PA 66(nylon 66). It is strong, light weight, and holds its form well.
Can you do replacing crankshaft main and rod bearings with needle roller bearings?
Many possibilities with that machine. Here are a few suggestions:
#1: Upcycle plastic bags. You can heatform plastics from trash into everything from bricks and building materials to parts for vehicles.
#2: cycle the lamps to reduce immediate powerconsumption so you can use the entire buildplate without supplying full power. You turn on and off lamps in a sequence to heat up the entire area uniformly while never having all the lamps on at the same time.
#3: Put clay or bodyfiller on panels. Shape this clay into strengthening rigdes to get better structural integrity without using thicker plastic plates.
#4: Form mold first, turn it around and use liquid epoxy in the vacuumprocess. Strengthen with leather scraps or old clothes. This will make bodypanels that handle cold weather better.
#5: Shinyer reflective material above lamps and more insulating material below material thats heated. This will direct and contain the heat better so you dont need as much power.
#6: Focusing lenses or more efficient heatingelements combined with airflow in the heatchamber will drastically reduce powerconsumption.
#7: Singlestep fill-and-finish for bumpers and such. By vacuum draw in and spread over material where origial material is damaged by rust or dented.
#8: Some matal thin plates and some spotwelders. But this would probably nto work with the current plywood structure.
You can use epoxy resin and fibreglass fabric to reinforce the plastic plastic shell. I believe this is actually done on some modern cars.
Garage 54 guys are so cool they do their own ad
This is a wonderful machine!
as you said it will be interesting to know how to make the interior bend to attach the panel without the rivets in sight, they made front bumper with the interior bend buy i dont know how
Hi Garage 54 is a pleasure to watch all your projects that are often challenging, so I come up with a proposal for another challenge, painting an entire car with powder coating, I think no one has tried anything like that. I hope this is the right place to post this proposal 🙄
Awesome work.
I had a vacuum forming machine that was produced by Mattel toys from the late 60's or early 70's. Never got to use it because I couldn't find the plastic for it.
it would make an amazing vinyl wrapping machine !
When molding plastics or other stuff it just takes practice. Keep it up. Nice work for first time.
Very well done, professional
one thing that would help is drilling small holes in the mold. that way the air goes though and makes for a better piece. It sucks down the plastic more positively.
Brilliant video guys 👍
First of all thanks for all the great videos.
The need for a WD-40 on the workspace is a great sealer to let no vacuum escape.
A big fan that blows nice fresh air over the new mold helps it cool better and helps the delamination to get better.
Also a freezing cold item you want to do molding with is also a great working solution.
Things u can mold:
car seats
2pc hood that flips left and right
Engine cover
Rear and front defusers
Forced air intake
Trunk Audio setup plate with nice round curves and holes for the woofers and amps.
I this helps a lot.
U all are doing amazing.
Wish everyone luck with the recovery of the sick boss.
All best wishes from Holland.
Great project mate, but re the door, it could be that the foam blocked the passage of air so that your negatives could not be pulled in tight, because without dedicated airways the vacuum could not reach the window area because the air path was now sealed by the initial exterior pull.
If I was doing this I would have replaced the glass with a sheet of steel and make sure there was a dedicated airway for each deep negative.
I would also heat the door and the wing a little first to prevent cold-shut and afford an initial longer vac time, and blow with an airline before releasing.
I am a movie armourer here who has only done this once because like you guys, I prefer hammers and steel.
Proud to have made armour for Russian films, and now count Russians amongst my friends .
Best wishes from an Englishman in a French forest. Great channel and love to Russia. 🇬🇧⚒️🇷🇺
3D printing some external engine components and testing there longevity would be interesting. Valve covers, intake, etc.
Given the fashon for old VW camper van artistry, you could make a mold of the front end of an old VW van which people could fix onto their walls to appear like a full size camper was appearing!
Owners could paint or otherwise decorate their 'van' to their own taste!
There would certainly be a market for this though it may be costly to package and transport it to the buyers...
Ensuring that post-apocalypse, Ladas can live on! We need Ladas in some arctic vaults somewhere.
Ladas are built like a brick shithouse they’ll always be around lol
I listen to kevin talbot's rc channel. He reinforce his body shell with dry wall screen tape and shoe glue and it's really worth it maybe you could find some type of material to use as drywall screen tape but in a wider version, shoe glue is cheap and do an amazing job
I was doing this in '15 to make rc heli canopies. Your door is bigger than what the car needs, a finished door is not a mould, it has to be smaller than the final product.
I love to see you guys try running a diesel motor using a closed loop. Meaning you put the exhaust pipe into this intake then run it..
you need to get that Converted gasoline engine in a car
Awesome! Thanks for sharing great video
Great video every detail and no bs good shit
There is a possible chanche to improve the current setup for making real metal body panels: if you use the formed plastic shapes as molds for casting high strenght concrete, then you can use theese shaped concrete pieces for shaping metal sheets in a water pressurized hydraulic forming machine. For accurate edge and hole cutting you can use a 3D pointer arm system which moves a plasma cutter and its movement leaded with hand touching down the original body piece template.
The parts will always be BIGGER doing it like that but for a TH-cam video it's great 😂🤣 next step would be to make a copy of the inside of those moulds to be the right size, then you can add the rest for bolt's on the inside of the moulds. Hope that makes sense? 🤔😁
Maybe they should treat these panels as cladding?
If the fender contact (to body) area is flat - use VHB tape to secure them.
Just make sure it's super clean (use 99% iso alcohol) on both surfaces, and don't touch it after cleaning.