How to: CV axle change, 20 minutes or less. 3rd gen 4runner, Tacoma, Tundra and more
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- Changing a CV axle quickly, sorta.
@funjunkiegarage
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" If you have to watch a video on taking the wheel off, stop right now and pay someone to do this job for you" 🤣😂
Just keepin it real.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I appreciate your support.
You got a fan right out the gates with that line.
Awesome!
I need to replace the inside boots on both of my axles so I read the removal procedure in the service manual . It pretty much has exactly what you did. I said to myself, no way can it be that quick. You just proved it is. Thank you so much for the video.
You are absolutely welcome.
I've never read the manual, so I'm happy to hear it agrees with me. 😆
Thank you for sharing and for watching and commenting. I appreciate your support of my channel.
This video is so straightforward and I felt like we were all watching live. I have a torn boot and plan to pull my CV axle out for repairs. Thanks!
You're welcome.
Thanks for the great comment.
It's not a bad job at all.
I also have a re boot video on here if you need that.
I appreciate your support.
@@funjunkiegarage Good to know, thank you!
Certainly, enjoy your project.
Your video helped so much. I’m sure recording the process doubles the work, but I’m so glad you took the time to do it. I’ve never replaced an axle, but I was able to replace both after watching your video. Thanks!
Awesome.
Very happy it helped.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I don't comment often I just wanted to say thanks. Your videos have helped me do a ton to these particular trucks.
Your approach to these things is practical. It's easy to follow and I feel like I owe you a drink of your choice.
Thanks Brother.
Fantastic! You're welcome and thank you for sharing that.
An awesome compliment indeed.
I'll have a rum and coke.
@@funjunkiegarage I literally learned a trade from your bumper build video. I didn't want to say anything until I knew it was solid.
I had a friend who has worked with steel for several years. He asked who I bought it from..
I'm not trying to kiss a**. I have a life skill thanks to your channel and given our current economic situation, I'm glad to pay it forward to someone who might need it.
Let's make it two rum and cokes. Cheers and Merry Christmas.
Dude! That's great.
Cheers & Merry Christmas to you!
Helped me to replace my cv boots, was happy to find exactly the same "design", my 4runner is year 2000. Thanks a lot for making this video!
Awesome.!
Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.
Thanks for posting this quick change video. Seems much less intimidating than I was expecting.
You're welcome.
I was hoping to have that affect.
Get people out enjoying their IFS rigs.
Your videos are a blessing. My son blew all the bearings out yesterday at the end of a black diamond trail at interlake. Got him unstuck with some body damage but he made it out in 2 wheel drive. Swapped axle last night with your help. Thank you
Awesome to hear, thank you!!
Sorry to hear he broke, but it happens, especially on Black diamond trails.
I love Interlake and will be there this coming weekend.
I'm so pleased to hear my video helped.
Thank you so much for sharing.
And I really appreciate your support!
Hope to see you out on the trail.
He was definitely in a bad spot. Had front passenger tire about foot under a big root and rear bumper up against a tree. He gave it all it had and it snapped. He's turning 18 in 2 weeks so he was showing up dad.
Hahahaha. My son is 36 but he still out wheels me.
Excellent enough job man, thank you! I imagined it to be a lot more involved, never changed one, but its good to know.
Thanks for watching!
for any CV axle pry while turning the axle by hand works everytime
Thanks for the tip.
I'll try it next time.
Pry what while turning the axle? Sorry I don’t quite understand? Thx
You'll see where the axle and the differential housing meet. Put the pry bar between the axle and the differential housing and pry apart
@@funjunkiegarage actually I just found when removing my cv axle that if you put a small crow bar against the “Ridges” that are cut into the housing right next to the diff and smack the crow bar while turning the axle slowly that it pops out pretty easy. Can’t say the same for puting it back in that was a PITA but getting it out wasn’t so bad, also you DO need to disconnect the tie rod and unhook the sway bar link to give you enough room to get it back in, atleast on my 2011 Tacoma, hope I never have to do this again. Total pain!!
Thanks for the information. I'll try that if I ever need to replace another.
Never tried changing one on a Tacoma.
Thanks for watching.
Great video. Thank you for this. Just did this job this afternoon. Took me about an hour an 20 mins to do. Struggled taking the driver side out a little bit. Everything went in perfectly. Thanks again.
Awesome, glad you found it helpful.
Good to hear it all went well. Thanks for watching.
Old school badass. Thank you for the fast way!
You're welcome.
No school like the old school.!
I've honed my skills as of late, may have to do an update. Same procedure just faster and with better tools!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
5:00 A great way to keep the wheel from turning is to put the truck in 4WD. Do it with the key on to power the ADD, then turn it off in 4WD and leave the opposite tire on the ground and you're good to go.
That's awesome advice. Easy and no chance of slipping.
Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching.
Caveat (in my case) is when the axle actually snaps. Then that wheel is going to turn unless you get a little bar in there to stop it from turning.
thanks for posting! my local mechanic charges $600+ to do a pair of these.
You're welcome.
It's not that tough of a job.
You'll be glad you saved that $$ for sure.
Thanks for watching and supporting my channel.
Put some lube around the clip before you install, it’ll keep it centered. Less likely to get caught up when you’re reseating the axle.
Great video, thanks for the how-to!
Thanks for watching.
That's a great tip!
Best to loosen the nut on the shaft a bit while the tire is still sitting on the floor
That is good advice.
Thanks for watching.
@@charlespitan5412 But you still need to remove the tire in order to remove the first big cap, and then the dust cap. Just went through the procedure today...
Your procedure made it the easiest and quickest CV axel change I've ever performed. Very much appreciated and keep the videos coming.
Awesome!
Glad to hear it helped.
Thanks for watching.
Appreciate ya.
Dude. Taking those four bolts out instead of pulling the LBJ out is genius. Way easier than the castle nut in my opinion. I think I might replace the seals on mine when I swap mine out later this year.
Thanks man. It's definitely the eaiser way.
Enjoy your project.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thank for this video, now I know how to do it. Not afraid to break an axel anymore. Shop quoted 3hrs labor, no thanks, I can do do it myself now and save some money awesome.
You're welcome. I'm glad it'll help you save $$. Always best to do your own wrenching.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks man right to the point well explained and confidence inspiring
You're welcome.
I appreciate the awesome compliments.
Have a great day.
Thank you for making this video. It gave me confidence to do it today!
Excellent!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Glad I could help.
Great breakdown, thank you for sharing.
Awesome, thanks for the support.
I appreciate you watching and commenting.
You couldn't hear it but yes you were being heckled. But thats the fun of trail fixes, you will get to heckle me soon enough.
Looking forward to it.
Changing parts when they've been replaced in the last few years is easy peasy. Different story when you're changing a part that failed after 15 years+ of use. By then it's likely fused together along with all the bolts along the way 😅
I agree that can be the case.
Like the saying goes:
"Every 20 minute job is one stuck/broken bolt away from taking 3 hours"
I've been wrenching in the rust belt for 45 years.
I can verify that.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I appreciate it.
Dam you made that look easy, my 5th gen cv is stuck in the diff. Im gonna remove everything and put a strap around and pull with the fork truck.
Holy shit, that's extreme. I'd be willing to wager that gets it out though.
Sorry to hear you are having such a problem with it. I've had some be difficult but never that bad.
I'm sure you have tired turning the axle and prying, that usually works.
Best of luck with it. Let me know how it turns out.
Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate your support.
Great work man!
Sweet, thanks brother.
Good enough for mobile home good enough for my jack stands haha
A million mobile homes can't be wrong.
Thanks for watching
Good work, thanks.
You're welcome.
I appreciate you watching.
That. Was. Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
You're welcome.
Appreciate ya.
I love this video! It has none of the usual perfectionist overkill. Just straight to the point. It removes the fear of DIY wrenching. You're awesome. Thanks for posting. ('97 SR5 2.7l auto 4x4)
Appreciate the kind words.
That's my goal with my videos, to get people wrenching and out on the trail!
Thank you for sharing and watching!
@@funjunkiegarage so basically if the boot is torn, just replace with new ones? How can I tell if it needs replaced? Other than torn?
You can re boot them which is a pain.
If it clicks/pops or has excessive play. It should be replaced. I have them on hand, so I just put in another one.
I cannot stress enough to clean and put blue Locktite on the 4 bolts that hold the lower ball joint on then torque at 59 foot pounds. These bolts came out yesterday and nearly kill me and my wife at high speed. It basically totaled our third generation 4Runner resulting in a tow bill and repair bill that is far more than the value of the vehicle.
Wow! So happy you are all OK.
That's great advice. Thanks for sharing.
I appreciate you watching and commenting
Niece job! 3Rd gen 4Runner here dam man there are not enough videos of this vehicle? Wrencher I am those old axles are coming with me lmao later when it's still goin!!!
Thanks man.
Doing the best I can. Always prefer an old stock Toyota axle when possible.
@@funjunkiegarage I've had a nightmare experience with my local tire shop and MY 4Runner! Story short they installed my Freedom Offroad upper control arms in with the O.E.M. upper spendal ball joints.... Pressed em,out of the after market UCA.??? Riddle me this.?!There were spacers the replaced the OEM upper balljoint?WerrD they Go!?
Wow! That sucks.
Apparently he didn't know his job.
Can't believe he took them apart. Hope it all works out.
Great video! Thanks 👍
You're welcome. Thanks for watching
Great video thank u just broke mine on 2011 Tacoma
Thank you. I appreciate that.
Same basic method for your 2011.
Best of luck and enjoy your project!
Thanks for watching and commenting.
5:00 screwdriver in the brake rotor's vents... you're welcome.
Thank you, that's a good tip.
Great video! Thanks for the help! I’m on an overlanding/ climbing trip and got a little too sendy on a trail hahah. Cheers!
Sweet! You're welcome.
Glad it helped.
We all "send it a little too hard" now and then.
Enjoy your trip!
@@funjunkiegarage hahah that’s the truth. Thank you!
Great video! Thank you!
Awesome!
You're welcome.
Thanks for watching
Try putting the spindle back on the axle and use it to get it in. It helps tremendously. Ex transmission tech.
Interesting, I've never heard of or thought of that.
I'll definitely try it next time I have something apart. Thanks for the sound advice, having been a transmission tech, I'm sure you know what you're talking about. I appreciate you sharing that.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video. Thanks
Awesome !
Thanks for checking it out!
Thank you!
You're welcome.
Thank you for supporting me.
Thanks for this! Very helpful. Your CV came out so much easier tho.
Thanks for watching and glad it helped.
Sometimes you get lucky.
Try turning it a little at a time and prying, that C clip can be difficult.
I am surprised to see Moog LBJ, have you had good experiences with these? Also are your lower control arms aftermarket?
I put the Moog LBJ and Moog LCA on this unit and had great success. They were still on the vehicle when it was totalled. They had approximately 20k miles on them with mild offroad but mostly street use. I realize that's not a bunch miles but that was all I could do because of the vehicles fate.
Thanks for watching and asking questions.
I appreciate the support of my channel.
Fantastic! Thanks! Hey, do you still have the dynamic damper on your transfer case? Mine is in very bad shape. Are they really needed? Pretty expensive for a new one. Thanks!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Yes I do still have the damper on mine, but I took it off my last one and couldn't tell any difference.
Sadly this took me 8 hours as the axle would NOT come out of the diff. Eventually I got it but it was awful.
Oh no. That's no fun at all.
Sorry it was such a pain but glad you got it done.
I've had many jobs that take forever due to a variety of reasons. I definitely feel your pain there.
I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Enjoy your job well done, you earned it.
Actually your method of changing out the cv axles is pretty much in line with what the factory service manual says to do! I dont know why the dealer would quote you 3 hours to do this when this is nearly the exact same procedure as what they would use. The only difference is instead of taking off the bolts holding the lower bj to the knuckle, it says take off the castle nut and pop the bj that way.
Thanks for watching.
It's such a simple job, no way I'd pay a dealer to do it.
And yes, the castle nut removal and disassembly is the proper way.
Got a question for you all. I have a 2017 Tundra, and ive been having some noise over bumps from the front end. Ive looked at everything up there and replaced breaks. The drivers side CV shaft on the inner housing, i can move the housing up and down a fair bit, and it makes a clanking noise - cant move the inner passenger side at all. Is this normal or potential issue. When i talk about moving the housing up and down, i know there is horizontal movement in the cv shaft which is normal. I have replaced the CV shaft, noise is still there, and i believe its worse now. The CV shaft is fully inserted in the housing as it contacts the diff it attaches too. Second question, when i pulled the inner seal on the diff that contacts the CV shaft, there was an o-ring that came out, questioning whether i put it back correctly. Thank you for any help.
Sounds like the needle bearing on the driver side that the cv rides on is bad.
Look into ECGS bushing replacement.
And replace the seal at the same time.
@2:17 Ain't that the damn truth! Haha that cap isn't hard to get off, but can take way longer than you think....
Exactly. It's often the little "easy" stuff that kicks my ass. That and looking forever for the tool I just had in my hand 20 seconds ago.
if mine is seized on, i air hammer it out.
That's gotta work!
Good advice.
Nice! What's the torque spec on the end CV nut?
Thanks!
The Factory Service Manual states 173 ft.lb.
I saw a chart on the internet that stated 217 ft.lb.
I choose to believe the FSM I had available.
I hope this helps.
I appreciate your support.
What is the axle nut size? Also did u have that 12 point retainer?
35mm axle nut, some aftermarket are a 36mm.
I have a 36mm I use on both.
Yes I have the 12 point retainer. Always use it with a cotter pin.
Thanks for watching and asking.
I really appreciate it.
If you don’t know how to do that part, abort the mission right now… 🤣
there isn't a pin holding the shaft on the transfer case side?
No pin, there is a c-clip around the axle end to hold it in place, but it compresses when you pry on the axle.
@@funjunkiegarage cool thanks. My subaru had a pin and I'm doing my 4runner next week, so glad to know before I was looking at this video that day haha
You're welcome. When it's time to pry it out if it doesn't go easily, rotate the axle quarter turns at a time and retry. When reinstalling have the c-clip opening downward, it goes in/out much eaiser that way.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I appreciate it.
thanks for the video. bit of advice, less talky more do-ey
Thanks for the advice and thanks for watching.
Heck yeah man, still watching it haha im doing myself seems really easy. And dont worry i can jack my car and take the tire off myself haha xD did rear shocks yesterday
Awesome, good to hear people are doing their own wrenching!
Once you tap in the new CV, do you find that there is a little bit of play on the inner part going into the diff? Is that normal? My new CV feels like it can go in and out of the diff a few millimeters if I give it a tug.
Yes, it does have a bit of in and out play at the diff. That is normal.
You didn't get all four ball joint bolts in you weren't even lined up that would have been another 15 min
Ok. Thank you for sharing.
I appreciate you watching.
Did you go OEM or aftermarket for your CV axles? Got a torn boot... rebuilding seems like a pita and shop quoted me $400 for both front half shafts
Oh you said OEM gotcha- did you rebuild one, junkyard, or?
I have a Toyota salvage business. So I have a never ending supply of OEM units.
I have a couple to rebuild. I'll do a video on it when I rebuild them.
$400.00?
Was that for new Toyota parts??
I hope.
They quoted me for $1000 for parts and labor for a new OEM cv at the dealership. Did it at a small garage for $50 labor and $150 for a used cv.
That's the way to do it!
Save money and do it yourself!
Is it a good idea to top off diff fluid after the change?
Yes it is. You will lose a little.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@funjunkiegarage Thank you sir! Great video.
I appreciate that.
Will a bad front cv axle cause acceleration viberation at 25-35 mph only?
Acceleration vibration is more likely a rear driveline issue.
I'd check drive shaft balance and u-joint wear, transmission mount wear.
A bad cv could be a possible cause but when they go bad you get a more constant vibe, with clicking and popping.
any torque specs on lbjs and cv joint? i know tights tight to tights broke
The 4 bolts should be torqued at 58 ft.lbs
The one on the bottom is 110 ft.lbs.
The CV nut on the end is 220 ft.lbs.
This is what I found in the Factory Service Manual.
I alway suggest you double check to be sure.
I personally torque the 4 bolts to 80 ft.lbs because at 58, I lost 2 bolts.
Hope this helps.
I appreciate you watching and commenting.
thanks so much for the quick reply .
yeah i will look for my own good btw the wheeling vids are great you got a sweet rig rear bumper is clean
You're welcome.
I'd just hate to steer anyone wrong is why I suggest you double check and feel satisfied for yourself.
Thank you for the compliments, they're my favorite for sure.
I do enjoy making my own armor, nice to hear you like it.
Thanks again for watching I do appreciate the support.
Have a great day.
so my truck has manual hubs , the cv axle i bought has 30 spines on the outer which will not fit in the manual hub because it has 27 spines .
i’m struggling to find one online that isn’t the same as oem which has 30
If your 3rd gen has a manual hub conversion, you need to get a CV axle for a 1st gen Tacoma with manual lock outs.
Hope this helps.
Let me know what you find.
I appreciate the question and thanks for watching.
So I got the axle bolt and the ball joint bolts off but it wont separate like yours did as soon as your ball joint bolts were removed... Tried lowering the jack but didn't work. Can i jack up the rotor to separate it? Any other tricks to separating it i gotta get it done this weekend....thanks in advance for any tips!!!
Yes try jacking the rotor up, but be careful it doesn't make the CV axle come apart. Strike it with a hammer on the tie rod mount. I seen them stuck but usually not too bad.
Good luck
@@funjunkiegarage ok thanks I'll try that carefully!
Learned my lesson should have done this instead of taking all upper parts off
Thanks for watching.
Going from the bottom is definitely eaiser.
Would this be the same procedure for a 95 t100? I have to replace my passenger side and the only difference is the torsion bar.
No, not the same. The differential end has bolts, and the wheel end has a snap ring. Not terribly difficult and drop the top ball joint instead of the bottom.
May have to remove the sway bar link.
Did you have to add fluid after the swap?
I did not add any.
I lost only an ounce or 2 .
I jack the side I'm changing up extra high if possible to help prevent loss.
The driver side will lose more due to it being up next to the diff.
Topping off the fluid would be best, just to be sure.
Thanks for watching and asking.
I appreciate your support of my channel.
Awesome thanks
You're welcome
Just changed out the passenger side, the knock is gone but I hear a whistling noise. Goes in and out. I looked under with a small leak. What are you thoughts? Thanks 💪
That's a tough one without hearing it.
Can you raise the wheel and spin the tire and duplicate the noise?
A new CV can make a little boot rub noise at first.
I assume it's coming from that side you just replaced.
Did you install a new seal?
Mine wont come out that dang easy
Is it still stuck?
Try turning it slowly and prying, that c-clip can be difficult to get past sometimes.
Do you know the torque spec for the 4 bolts under the lower ball joint?
Toyota FSM says 112 ft.lb.
@@funjunkiegarage thank you!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
@@funjunkiegarage you’re welcome. Thanks for making the video!
@@funjunkiegarage by the way. It is only 59 ft.lb… I broke a bolt on each side putting it back together
Is this method just the same as if u had manual hubs I know I gotta disassemble the locking hub but taking out cv axel could I use this method too do so
If it's a 3rd gen 4runner or 1st gen Tacoma it's the same. If you have a 1st or 2nd gen 4runner or pre 95 pickup the CV bolts to a flange on the differential end.
Outer part is mostly the same.
Is a wheel alignment needed after replacing it?
Thanks for watching.
No it is not necessary to align the front end after a CV change.
Also any idea on what are the part # for the 2 seals?
Sorry, I don't remember the part number.
Will this guide work on a 94? I think the 94 is a 2nd gen?
Thanks for watching and commenting.
The 2nd gen procedure is similar to this on the outer part, but unbolt the top ball joint on yours. The inner bolts to a flange on the diff.
So just unbolt that end. If you remove the studs from the flange and grind the knurled surface off, you can put it together like nuts and bolts, and if you have to change it again, it eliminates the need to unbolt the ball joint.
Hope that helps.
@@funjunkiegarage thanks for replying so quickly! I found another video of an 89 pickup that was the same set up as mine. The guy unbolted a shock absorber and moved it out of the way and his came right out. I will try his first since it requires less to do but if it doesnt work I will try your suggestion. I'll report back. 👍
Yeah, please do let me know.
I'm glad you found a procedure for a 2nd gen.
I've only done a couple of those and I'm always happy to learn an eaiser/better way.
@@funjunkiegarage Hey man! Just reporting back. The method from the other video works, but it can be a bit tedious. Minimal amount of bolts and nuts to remove I will say. It requires you to undo the shock absorber for clearance. It also requires you to jack your ride up and set a jack stand on the frame so you can set your jack on the outside control arm. From there you have to jack that up to create enough of an angle upwards for it to all slot out, on top of rotating the axle housing with the axle itself for it to rotate out.
Like I said, tedious, however I believe if you do that method a few times you could get pretty quick at it.
That being said, I will absolutely be removing the upper ball joint on the other side. 👍
Progress: Left side axle is in but I lost one of the threaded housing bolts. 😑 wish me luck on the rest I hope this comment makes sense/is comprehensible. 👍
Nice, thanks for the update.
Makes perfect sense. I'll have to try that method if I get a chance.
Absolutely best of luck on the other side.
If you try the way I mentioned, let me know which you prefer please. I'd appreciate it.
Does the leaking fluid matter? Or need extra once installed?
It should be checked.
I didn't loose more than a couple tablespoons full.
Tilting the vehicle more helps.
Driver side will leak more, so if you do the driver side, definitely check it.
Same deal concept for a 1st gen taco im assuming ?
Yes, I believe so.
do you use stock axles or did you get heavy-duty ones?
I use stock Toyota axles.
@@funjunkiegarage do you recommend getting heavy-duty or should I just replace the boot
I always use stock. I would just replace the boot.
You need an easily replaceable weak link or "fuse" in the IFS front end.
That's my opinion.
I've only broken 2 and both were me being stupid.
If you have heavy duty shafts made for the stock ends is an option, but then you risk other breakage.
Just my two cents.
Thanks for watching my show.
@@funjunkiegarage thank you
All that jibber-jabber you were doing and you didn't even mention the size of the axle nut
36mm
@@funjunkiegarage Are you certain it's a 36mm? I've read in multiple forums it's a 35mm. Thx.
The socket I have is a 36mm. I'll check it out though and measure the nut. It sure seems to fit well, I've used it many times.
Thanks for the info, I'll check it out.
Edit: factory size is 35mm.
Most aftermarket have a 36mm
I checked all the nuts I have and 6 out of 9 were 36mm and 3 were 35mm. The 36mm socket fit both very nicely. So yes, you are correct 35mm factory.
Appreciate you watching and commenting.
Just bought a 91 Toyota v6..will it be the same process as yours?
Thanks for watching.
It isn't the same.
The cv axle bolt is different.
You undo the top ball joint, it's a bolt in with 4 bolts. You'll have to remove the sway bar link if you have it hooked up.
Then the cv bolts onto the center section. Not terribly difficult, just a few more steps.
Do 3rd gen 4runners and 1st gen taccomas share front cv axels?
From what I can find, they are not the same. I checked 3 different parts suppliers and they have different part numbers. Looks as though legnth is the difference.
@@funjunkiegarage OK. I was reading from other places that the axels will work but aren't the same. I seen someone selling a pair of used oem tacoma axels and just want to get them as backups. I wanted to try to see if anyone's used tacoma axles in their 4runner to confirm.
I have not. The red Tacoma I just acquired is the first one I've had.
I just measured them and the Tacoma axle, from hub to axle housing is 1" shorter. So I suppose it could work. Not sure.
Would this method work for a 94 4runner(2nd gen)?
No, 2nd gen cv axles bolt to a flange on the differential side. Getting the outer loose is eaiser, then drop the upper ball joint (it bolts on) and then pull it out.
Did you take the tie rod off?
Did I take the tie rod off? No, not necessary .
Thanks for watching.
How often do these break? Is it mainly after getting a lift?
In my family we have a 98 pushing 300k, an 08 over 200k, my 04 Sequoia is at 270K and I just bought a used 2000 4runner with 250K. Not to mention my dad's old T100 that had 350K before it was traded in. Not one of those vehicles I mentioned has had a CV axle break. Maybe it's just due to a suspension lift and off road use?
I've only broken 2 in my many years off roading IFS trucks. It's mainly shock loading that causes breaking. Lifting can increase the chances, but only slightly.
Off road use for sure!
@@funjunkiegarage thank you, that's good to know. I'll be driving careful off road, hoping for no problems.
@@funjunkiegarage can confirm
My 5th gen just broke front right CV on loose sand its not even a big lift just a spacers sadly
Bummer, dont know how close this is to a 5th gen.
Best of luck to you.
Kinda seems like it should do better than that.
@@funjunkiegarage same I think it was the ATRAC holding the torque then couldn't displace it anywhere but the CVs
I see.
I've used ATRAC before in a friends vehicle.
Nice feature
No need to remove rotor or wheel hub?!
Nope, no need.
Thanks for watching.
@@funjunkiegarage alright thanks. Just picked up an 04 runner , slowly fixing the other people's problems I bought. Got cardone axle I'll try your method tomorrow. Thanks again.
I think 4th gen is the same basic concept.
@@funjunkiegarage Yep! 30 min swap thanks
You're welcome.
That's awesome.
Big nut tork spec?
174 ft. lbs. For proper preload on the bearing.
Thanks for watching
@@funjunkiegarage thanks