Thanks for the video 1A Auto. Changed both axles today. Took me a very long time. Embarrassing to say but about a 6.5 hour job. I struggled with two cotter pins and wasted close to an hour on those with pliers, cutter and a punch but finished it off with the drill. After around 45 minutes of trying to compress the axles and hit them with a hammer on my own I had to ask someone in the stall next to me to compress them while I finally banged them in. Trucks making noise so I'll have to go back tomorrow to check the backing plate. Toyota had listed "torn cv boot" and quoted $476.72 to fix. I bought the axles at AutoZone for around $100 each and spent $32 at the shop. So I changed both axles for half the price Toyota would have charged me to fix the boot. I don't know how they quote stuff but hopefully they would have changed the whole axle at least. I asked for cotter pins at AutoZone and all they had was a variety pack so I skipped figuring I'd just use the old ones. I should have just bought the pack even though I didn't need that many. I only had a few drops of gear oil drip out so I didn't add any.
i use a 3lb sledge to seat those axles. you can feel the metal clank this way when it seats. you can't with rubber. just use the old nut on the new axle to hit it and a block of wood if you're really paranoid. the steel hammer has a lot better feel for seating that clip ring. VERY well done video by the way
The brake pads I purchased ended up not sliding in while the caliper was still mounted, so that trick does always works. Great video! I can’t wait to swap out my cv axel this week. Thx for posting!
Excellent video. I really appreciate the close ups and the good lighting, and the simple explanation. Getting the axles out of the differential was a pain, I have no lift... It was helpful to have another person hold and rotate the axle as I banged it out!
GREAT VIDEO. Just some of my findings….Anti seize on back of rim contact points with hub. A sledge on the tire breaks it free the first time. Antiseize on caliper bolts first and every dissasembly. But torqued to spec (minimum, you can't break or damage threads on this big boy) On a high mileage (greater than 200K) 4runner you'll might need to break these bolts with a long breaker bar and "pipe extender". Hence the antiseize from there on. Don't ding hub cap, (too risky) spray first with PB Blaster. Then use wood chisel to move it out several MM, then flat screwdriver the rest of the way. 2003 hub nut is 36MM, have found that my current 2005 is 35MM. Whooda Thunkit. If you break your axle nut free with a prybar or torque the new one holding against the floor put your lug nuts on the lug studs to assure threads are protected for the whole job. Drive cotter pins out with a punch/ or nail cut flat that is the right diameter so you don't have to drill them out.
I'd like to suggest one more video be made - I had torn CV boots, a failing bearing and was ready for a brake job. A "Playlist" would be incredibly helpful with a master video that ties all these videos together. In my case I used the video for CV Axel replacement, Bearing replacement (included in the box from 1A Auto is a replacement seal and large O ring neither of which is mentioned in the bearing video), Caliper Replacement and the video for Pads and Rotor replacement - OH and hey, since the outer tie rod is getting disconnected I'm replacing that too. So there's 5 videos and there's some little steps missing inbetween some of them. A master video tying all these steps together would be valuable imho.
Great video, thanks! Although on your website the Cotter Pin Assortment 150 Piece Kit from Performance Tools is sold for $35, while O'Reilly sells the same kit, of the same brand, for $13
It's a few minutes extra work, but after my dumb self having ruined a couple seals, I just remove the entire knuckle when replacing the CV axle, lol. It's like 10 minutes extra work but it saves money and time for me in the long run.
Great detail on the process! Unfortunately, my son's '04 doesn't have the notches on the axle (my '08 does). Any suggestion what our options are for banging it out on the '04?
I think when you put the new axle in, the metal clip (retainer?) on the inner end should have its opening pointed in a certain direction. I believe it was vertical, either upwards or downwards, but I can't remember exactly. I learned that when replacing a clutch of a toyota.
This can be done without removing the out tie rod fyi. Those two bolts on the bottom of the wheel bearing assembly is all that’s needed to wiggle the cv axle out. Good video and nice explanation otherwise.
Great video. It's too bad you didn't have a new backing plate to go with all the other new hardware. The rust belt is real, happy to work on my CA cars. 😊
Don't remove your dust covers this way, you will ruin them. Slowly tap with sharp edged punch around the edge while turning hub, moving the hub each tap until you can pry it open. Use a puller on the Tie Rod, don't pound on it. You can borrow a puller at you local parts store. It is recommended to remove the skid plate (only a few 12 or 14mm bolts). When installing the axle, the c-clip opening on the end of the axle that connects to the diff, should be pointing down. You can also use the same pry bar (pounding) method to place the axle, instead of pounding on the end. There are better videos for replacement of your CV Axles.
When driving the axle in with the hammer, are you at all worried about over driving it and crushing/damaging the seal? I've never done one of these but the last person who replaced my driver's side CV screwed up the seal and had to do it over.
I experienced wobble in the front end, thought ball joints were bad. Jacked it up, and noticed the passenger wheel would turn then stick. Thought bad caliper. Removed caliper and still had the problem. Hub would turn then stick, I mean almost like a binding. Now it's either the axle, or the transfer case. Any of you guys experienced this before? New one on me. Oh, and put new wheel bearings in last year, so I'm eliminating that, for now. Would like to know what ya think, thanks! One more thing, it's a 2007, gen 4.
If your tie rod is hopelessly stuck, rent a tie rod separator. Should be free from auto zone, you'll need a hefty deposit but you get to keep it as long as you need
Im havin a hell of a time removing that inner cv. Its break time rn. Clear my head and ima get it one way or another. Mine doesnt have those nice ledges to put the pry bar on
Quick question. Did you say when tighten the 36 mm bolt to 203? Can you confirm that? I am planning to this this weekend. I don't have a lift. It is going to be hard, but not impossible. Thanks for the answer.
Everything went very smooth for me. Had it put back together in 10 minutes.... But I cannot for the life of me getting the lower ball joints threaded back in. Been on them for an hour... What am I missing!?
+Mitch M Thanks for watching. We do carry an assortment of cotter pins here: www.1aauto.com/cotter-pin-assortment-150-piece-kit-performance-tool-w5206/i/1axss00012/1003/1997
You don’t have to with cv axle replacement. Doing the driveline service is super duper easy if you have air or impact tools. Transfer case is a little bit more time because of where the fill plug is but still easy.
I have a few questions. What is the axel seal called? Is it the same seal on both axels? Is the cv axle coming out of the transmission or the transfer case?
Hello, just wondering if replacing the CV axle, is it necessary to change both seals? Or a case to case basis. Thanks for a very detailed video, Mr. Bonk! Lol.✌️
You will most likely have to reseat your cv axle seal, if transmission fluid leaked out. Or you will have to replace the seal. It tears when you take the seal out to reseat it normally. It needs to stick out about 5mm over the lip of transmission
Took me 15 mins to do both. Skip all steps besides the axle nut and two 19mm lower bolts. Hold assembly out of way with bungee cord. Doesn't pull on anything.
How much would a dealership charge to do this? Going to be replacing wheel bearings and Cv Axles simultaneously. $$ easily saved doing this replacement manually.
Yes the backing plate is rusted to smithereens but folks, look at the prices ($$$) for a new OEM one from Toyota and you'll understand why they get used until they absolutely can't anymore LOL
Don't use cutters on cotter pin if saving, don't hit your rim ever, especially if its aluminum, don't put dents in your hub cover, put lug nuts on threads if you're placing prybar across them....dude
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
This guy is the Bob Ross of mechanic videos. "Just give it a little bonk"
+Kenneth Brown Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
hahaha this made my morning XD
💯
Excellent demonstration by this man as always, professional, well-explained, and the camera work is top-notch!
Outstanding, good job.
Hope the guy in the video see this. Great job explaining everything great video!!
+Steven Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Thanks for the video 1A Auto. Changed both axles today. Took me a very long time. Embarrassing to say but about a 6.5 hour job. I struggled with two cotter pins and wasted close to an hour on those with pliers, cutter and a punch but finished it off with the drill. After around 45 minutes of trying to compress the axles and hit them with a hammer on my own I had to ask someone in the stall next to me to compress them while I finally banged them in. Trucks making noise so I'll have to go back tomorrow to check the backing plate. Toyota had listed "torn cv boot" and quoted $476.72 to fix. I bought the axles at AutoZone for around $100 each and spent $32 at the shop. So I changed both axles for half the price Toyota would have charged me to fix the boot. I don't know how they quote stuff but hopefully they would have changed the whole axle at least. I asked for cotter pins at AutoZone and all they had was a variety pack so I skipped figuring I'd just use the old ones. I should have just bought the pack even though I didn't need that many. I only had a few drops of gear oil drip out so I didn't add any.
+Kevin Vega Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Agree with others... best demo of this repair I've seen. The bonk bonk bonk actually makes me want to try replacing my own. Great video! Thank you
Your technique to hit the axle out thru the skid plate with the crow bar is exactly what i needed to get it out! Thanks!
i use a 3lb sledge to seat those axles. you can feel the metal clank this way when it seats. you can't with rubber. just use the old nut on the new axle to hit it and a block of wood if you're really paranoid. the steel hammer has a lot better feel for seating that clip ring. VERY well done video by the way
I've used aluminum foil to redirect fluids.
Thanks a ton for sharing. This video is going to make me some money. Thanks again!
That’s a great idea.
Cha Ching
The brake pads I purchased ended up not sliding in while the caliper was still mounted, so that trick does always works. Great video! I can’t wait to swap out my cv axel this week. Thx for posting!
Excellent video. I really appreciate the close ups and the good lighting, and the simple explanation. Getting the axles out of the differential was a pain, I have no lift... It was helpful to have another person hold and rotate the axle as I banged it out!
Also "not trying to win a coloring contest" lol
+Marisa Mirviss Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
GREAT VIDEO. Just some of my findings….Anti seize on back of rim contact points with hub.
A sledge on the tire breaks it free the first time.
Antiseize on caliper bolts first and every dissasembly. But torqued to spec (minimum, you can't break or damage threads on this big boy)
On a high mileage (greater than 200K) 4runner you'll might need to break these bolts with a long breaker bar and "pipe extender". Hence the antiseize from there on.
Don't ding hub cap, (too risky) spray first with PB Blaster. Then use wood chisel to move it out several MM, then flat screwdriver the rest of the way.
2003 hub nut is 36MM, have found that my current 2005 is 35MM. Whooda Thunkit. If you break your axle nut free with a prybar or torque the new one holding against the floor put your lug nuts on the lug studs to assure threads are protected for the whole job. Drive cotter pins out with a punch/ or nail cut flat that is the right diameter so you don't have to drill them out.
This guy does a really good job on these instructional videos
+EndlessMindset Thanks for the feedback!
I'd like to suggest one more video be made - I had torn CV boots, a failing bearing and was ready for a brake job. A "Playlist" would be incredibly helpful with a master video that ties all these videos together. In my case I used the video for CV Axel replacement, Bearing replacement (included in the box from 1A Auto is a replacement seal and large O ring neither of which is mentioned in the bearing video), Caliper Replacement and the video for Pads and Rotor replacement - OH and hey, since the outer tie rod is getting disconnected I'm replacing that too. So there's 5 videos and there's some little steps missing inbetween some of them. A master video tying all these steps together would be valuable imho.
I'm going to be Bonking on my 4th gen this weekend!
+J L Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
So much bonking.. I love the terminology. Great video!
Great video, thanks! Although on your website the Cotter Pin Assortment 150 Piece Kit from Performance Tools is sold for $35, while O'Reilly sells the same kit, of the same brand, for $13
Man this is a big job! My CV Boot just went. 190,000km. Need to replace my axle
It's a few minutes extra work, but after my dumb self having ruined a couple seals, I just remove the entire knuckle when replacing the CV axle, lol. It's like 10 minutes extra work but it saves money and time for me in the long run.
Great detail on the process! Unfortunately, my son's '04 doesn't have the notches on the axle (my '08 does). Any suggestion what our options are for banging it out on the '04?
This guy is awesome and extremely helpful 👍 BONK!
Thank you. Will keep ordering from you due to your excellent instructional videos.
I think when you put the new axle in, the metal clip (retainer?) on the inner end should have its opening pointed in a certain direction. I believe it was vertical, either upwards or downwards, but I can't remember exactly. I learned that when replacing a clutch of a toyota.
Thanks for the detailed guide and list of tools needed to complete the job.
+Rollin' With The Olins Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Great instructor and mechanic
This can be done without removing the out tie rod fyi. Those two bolts on the bottom of the wheel bearing assembly is all that’s needed to wiggle the cv axle out. Good video and nice explanation otherwise.
x2 was just going to post this
You should advise ALWAYS replacing cotter pins. It's not worth the few pennies and the convenience of not running to the store to compromise safety.
The cotter pin does nothing if you torque nut to right spec. Most cars don't even have them with a plain old non locking nut.
Great video. It's too bad you didn't have a new backing plate to go with all the other new hardware. The rust belt is real, happy to work on my CA cars. 😊
Thank u 1a Auto!!! Just made $200 easy watching the video & doing the work. I appreciate y’all ‼️💯
The axles are usually in very tight. I used a propane torch to heat up the axle housing. Once hot, the axle comes out much more easily with a pry bar.
Don't remove your dust covers this way, you will ruin them. Slowly tap with sharp edged punch around the edge while turning hub, moving the hub each tap until you can pry it open. Use a puller on the Tie Rod, don't pound on it. You can borrow a puller at you local parts store. It is recommended to remove the skid plate (only a few 12 or 14mm bolts). When installing the axle, the c-clip opening on the end of the axle that connects to the diff, should be pointing down. You can also use the same pry bar (pounding) method to place the axle, instead of pounding on the end. There are better videos for replacement of your CV Axles.
+Ian Eager Thanks for the tip!
Great video, but how come you didn't replace the inner seal? Also what kind of tool is required to remove it?
I've heard that inner seal is prone to leaking after axle swap. Better to replace it for $17
The front door-bell is never not ringing! LOL! Great vid as always!
+Doug Marbourg Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Thanks for your help God bless you brother
Great video! Also wondering if you need to replace any gear oil lost from the differential?
Yes
When driving the axle in with the hammer, are you at all worried about over driving it and crushing/damaging the seal? I've never done one of these but the last person who replaced my driver's side CV screwed up the seal and had to do it over.
I experienced wobble in the front end, thought ball joints were bad. Jacked it up, and noticed the passenger wheel would turn then stick. Thought bad caliper. Removed caliper and still had the problem. Hub would turn then stick, I mean almost like a binding. Now it's either the axle, or the transfer case. Any of you guys experienced this before? New one on me. Oh, and put new wheel bearings in last year, so I'm eliminating that, for now. Would like to know what ya think, thanks! One more thing, it's a 2007, gen 4.
Did you ever find out what it was?
Great video, thank you.
If your tie rod is hopelessly stuck, rent a tie rod separator. Should be free from auto zone, you'll need a hefty deposit but you get to keep it as long as you need
+West10 Thanks for the tip!
Do you need to refill any lost fluid from the differential?
Thats what Im wondering?
Yes. Refill until it just starts to run out of the fill port
Lenny is my favorite 😍 torqued … torqued
The axle nut is a 35mm socket, not 36.
Im havin a hell of a time removing that inner cv. Its break time rn. Clear my head and ima get it one way or another. Mine doesnt have those nice ledges to put the pry bar on
Did it come out?
Great video. God that lower ball joint and backing plate are shot.
Quick question. Did you say when tighten the 36 mm bolt to 203? Can you confirm that? I am planning to this this weekend. I don't have a lift. It is going to be hard, but not impossible.
Thanks for the answer.
It's 173 in the service manual.
My inner caliper pistons are stuck. Tried a brake job yesterday and turned into an epic battle of good vs evil.
lens the best,I wouldnt be who I am today,and I needed all the help I could get lol,no really
Awesome. Used it to replace aut new beetle axles Same concept
OUTSTANDING VIDEO. Very impressive. Following!
+Lukeoid Thanks for the feedback!
I was starting to wonder if you were going to mention that horrible backing plate.
+C L Thanks for checking us out. 1AAuto.com
Great video. The only thing I would like to see is checking and topping off all that gear oil that drained out when he pulled the axle....
+Happy Hippie Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
BONK!!
Thank you! 😆👍
Great video! Is there no fluid to replace? And is it fed from the diff?
Bonk has become my new favorite word 😂
Fantastic video
What level of concern do you need about the pry bar damaging the rotor when pushing back the brake caliper?
The beard and the hammer are lit
We’re good job men thank you for Cho
The owner for this was getting the works 😂😂
When do you put the gear oil back in the differential?
Thanks for your videos
Everything went very smooth for me. Had it put back together in 10 minutes.... But I cannot for the life of me getting the lower ball joints threaded back in. Been on them for an hour... What am I missing!?
Do you guys have access to cotter pins?
+Mitch M Thanks for watching. We do carry an assortment of cotter pins here: www.1aauto.com/cotter-pin-assortment-150-piece-kit-performance-tool-w5206/i/1axss00012/1003/1997
Buy a kit from harbor freight for 10 bucks
Great job/ video. Thanks!
+CrayCray Redneck Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Anyone know where to put in the gear oil? Should you change the fluid while doing this job?
You don’t have to with cv axle replacement. Doing the driveline service is super duper easy if you have air or impact tools. Transfer case is a little bit more time because of where the fill plug is but still easy.
Are you sure it's a 36mm axle nut socket? Another video states it's a 35mm.
I have a few questions. What is the axel seal called? Is it the same seal on both axels? Is the cv axle coming out of the transmission or the transfer case?
Hello, just wondering if replacing the CV axle, is it necessary to change both seals? Or a case to case basis. Thanks for a very detailed video, Mr. Bonk! Lol.✌️
If torn and leaking
I currently have everything done now have to put the cv into the diff but cant get the front diff drain plug out
Awesome video
Great video
You will most likely have to reseat your cv axle seal, if transmission fluid leaked out. Or you will have to replace the seal. It tears when you take the seal out to reseat it normally. It needs to stick out about 5mm over the lip of transmission
Thanks for sharing this
+Mark Reynolds Thanks for checking us out!
Ok dumb question but is this the same process for a rwd frunner?
So how many hour job is this for you to do one side like in the video?
Put the lug nuts on when you use the pry bar to back you up.
Took me 15 mins to do both. Skip all steps besides the axle nut and two 19mm lower bolts. Hold assembly out of way with bungee cord. Doesn't pull on anything.
Toyota fsm lists 166 ft/lbs for the 19mm bolts under the knuckle, you say are 103
Is OEM better than aftermarket for 2005 4Runner? Pros cons?
If you're talking Toyota parts, OEM 100% of the time no questions asked. In fact, OEM is almost ALWAYS better.
I will always use real toyota parts.
I want so bad to order these but I keep hearing that they rust almost immediately!
I’m replacing my backing plates too (ebay, 1-A didn’t have them)
Kind of a rook here, wondering how to replace the gear oil that drained out?
There should be a fill plug on the side of the transmission. Fill it until it overflows
@@92BGLancer That is not transmission oil but diff oil. There is a hex plug at the tip of the diff on the drivers side to fill the oil that drips out.
Good video
+Be En Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
How much would a dealership charge to do this?
Going to be replacing wheel bearings and Cv Axles simultaneously. $$ easily saved doing this replacement manually.
What about refilling the fluid that came out?
Should have recommended to replace the dust plate while in there, looks like shsst"
There is no need to remove the tie rod end nor the brake caliper
He changed the brake rotor, how you going to do that without removing the brake caliper?
Never hit, always bonk! Its safer 👨🔧 LOL!!!
+Israel Rodriguez Thanks for checking us out. 1AAuto.com
Yes the backing plate is rusted to smithereens but folks, look at the prices ($$$) for a new OEM one from Toyota and you'll understand why they get used until they absolutely can't anymore LOL
Instead of bonks i like to use ugga buggas
Oh, what state is this in? That dust shield behind the rotor is looking pretty rough... 😬
I’m from Michigan and mines almost gone 😂
I wish he lived next door to me. CV boot on 4Runner is torn :(
Some of those steps are unessary honestly lol.
No need to remove the calipers and rotors and pads.
forgot one important last step. fill fluid back into the gear box
Don't use cutters on cotter pin if saving, don't hit your rim ever, especially if its aluminum, don't put dents in your hub cover, put lug nuts on threads if you're placing prybar across them....dude
+Jay A O Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
👍
Backing plate needs to goooooo!!!!
Leaving the old seals=bad man.
+J Lloyd Thanks for the tip!
That rust from salt is the worst. I only buy Florida trucks that never left the state. No rust makes it so must cleaner.
My favorite part is when he bonks stuff
35 mm axel hub bolt size not 36mm