I’m 56 and did most of my own work until the more complex stuff required more diagnostic tools . You’ve helped me with a few vehicles already, including a parasitic drag on a relative’s Avalon, intermittent loss of power to solenoid on my 06 Ram.
Got this from AMD at TCCN channel. The actuators get stuck either in 4wd or worse, in between 2 & 4. Once a month put it in 4H and drive for a few minutes and then 4L and drive for a few minutes. That will prevent the actuator from freezing up on you. A must for 4Runners. Great stuff once again brother!! Soli Deo Gloria~
I always manually energize the actuator motor and see if it frees up. Then I will use the interior controls and monitor the voltages at the PINs for switch input/out puts at the module.
@windward2818 i have snap-ons version of the power probe. It has an adjustable breaker settings. I refer to a wiring diagram first. But usually it's just like a window motor , you just switch your leads and the motor moves the other way.
@@Pr0ph3cy-k5z The transfer case actuator is a +12V DC motor normally operated by a relay, but that is all we really know. Power Probe can energize +12V DC loads but is not current limited, it is protected by a circuit breaker function. We are more concerned with protecting the motor from over stress than the Power Probe. To test and move the motor, it would be better to use a current limited +12VDC power supply. This way you could start at a current like 5 Amps momentarily to see if the motor moves, first one way and then reverse. If the motor does not move and is seized, the power supply will limit at 5 Amps and you know there is a potential motor issue.
I'm old enough to remember when grabbing the shifter and pulling into 4WD actually meant you where pulling it into 4WD including center diff lock and unlock. I am old.
@_RiseAgainst I'm doing independent study about HGH (human growth hormone) that's definately lacking in seniors. HGH is required to repair tissue scarred by exercise resulting in DOMS (delayed onset muscle soreness.) Unfortunately the medical community poo poos the administration of HGH to seniors as it's only effective as injection. Glad you asked.👍
I think you've got the right idea for testing. Is it possible to move the transfer case shaft to see if there's easy movement inside. If the case can be shifted to 2HI, that would be helpful to verify the internals are working. On to part 2.
The PCB looks to be only a two layer board so tracing circuits is relatively easy if you back light the board. By tracing the circuits you will be able to see what the pins actually do and what type of I/O they are regardless of what the wiring diagram indicates. You will know exactly what each pin does. Using a DMM you should be able to understand all of the module functions and if they are working at the module connector, you should not need to use a test light unless you suspect a high resistance fault in the wiring and connections, which may require a test light but not in the beginning. A 12VDC pull up power circuit for switch to ground feedback control is extremely simple. Either a bad solder joint, a crack in a trace, or a leaky capacitor damaging a trace. To really look closely at the PCB solder joints it is best to use a zoom stereo microscope. You can see small cracks in bad solder joints not visible to the naked eye.
Overloaded circuit might also burn traces or overload protection components. It's a bit more tricky if you have different voltages in the circuit and a voltage regulator dies, but as long as it doesn't put 12V on a 5V circuit or similar then it should be OK.
Great job, Ivan! A bit confusing problem, but you managed to make sense of it (at first, I thought it was a bad switch). On to Part 2, to clear all doubts 🙂
I know as far as 4x action my 99 J shift is a bit simpler than my 01 which uses this same system. When I had similar issues with my 01 it turned out to be rodents which when preparing for winter had decided to feed a bit on my actuator wiring lol. These are generally pretty rock solid, 9 times out of 10 it's usually something really simple. Fortunately in my case some solder type butt connectors helped me to remedy the very similar issue. This however goes to show that sometimes the process of properly and thoroughly electrical troubleshooting in the hands of a experienced diagnostician is absolutely the way it's got to be handled to get to the root of a component failure like this or so it would seem. Well see I guess, I have a feeling Ivan is right on the money though.
Been through similar with my 2004 Sequoia. Eventually managed to free it by manipulating shifter, moving forward and backwards etc. Figured just a lazy actuator due to not using it that much but who knows.
Now here's a guy that loves a good brain tickling puzzle ! I got dizzy trying to keep up. I hate these 4 wheel drive systems. I had a 1999 suburban that had issues like this 4 runner has. Best I ever got was, it could be this or it could be that. I just sold the stupid thing.
Just a correction,The button in left is for rear diff locker and only works in 4 low, not for center. Front diff add is most common problems on them,i hate it. We just swap them manual hubs lock.
Actually, the '01 & '02 4Runner 4WD did *not* have Rear Diff Lock. That is a Center Diff Lock button at 0:53 . I have '01 & '04 4x4 Tacomas, and they both have the Rear Diff Lock at the same location, left of the steering wheel. I wish my '01 4Runner had the RearDiffLock instead of the CenterDiffLock.
Exactly what they told me in the signal corps you have to know how the device works and you have to know what you going to go look for before you get a voltmeter or in a silicone and try to look for the problem you're not allowed to troubleshoot if you have no clue as to what you're going to go do
Well at least it took the fuzzy smoke box 20+ yrs to fail. I had 2 units and 1 actuator die in my 01 Durango within 7yrs. They were replaced under extended warranty but I never trusted it, sold it in late 08.
Quite a system to do a simple job. Oh, it's not a simple job, because of the speed sensor. Maybe you hafta be rolling, but below a max speed before it will shift. Don't know about this case, but in some cases, a blinking light means it's trying to move a device, but is in between states and hasn't reached the final state yet. I'm wondering what good it does to be in 4wd if the center diff isn't locked. I know you will get it, for sure!
@PHAD Ivan, I wonder if the 4WD ECU has a/some bad capacitors? I know there were a bunch of defective caps showing up in electronics from late 2002 - 2004. They worked for several years then would swell and leak. If that is the case here, the replacement from eBay may be no better of. Just a WAG. The capacitors can be replaced with a great deal of fuss in many cases.
noticed you managed to put new headlight buckets on the suz. a few of us would wonder how you managed to locate any. it is indeed rare something goes Kaput like this, but then there are those of us who, through general use, manage to push things over the edge of wear. only thing that came close to this in my personal experience was the deal with a Mitsubishi I had, but what I've learned here is telling me that almost every connection in that poor thing has probably shook loose and corroded.
Ordered a set of new headlights and added LEDs for the win. She lights up da road. But she ate the rear axle bearings. I finally got enough money to get all of my parts. Now I'm slowly getting it together. Then my sister truck wheel bearing went bad. So now I need to get it done firsty. It's 32' outside brrrrrr...
That module seems simple enough that you might be able to replace it with an Arduino if push came to shove. The software would basically encode a state machine using those switches as inputs.
With the central differential lock button, does this vehicle essentially have a full-time 4x4 transfer case until the central differential lock button is depressed?
I wanna see what would happen if you reflow those solder joints, it reminds me of that Ford you diagnosed some years ago where the relay had a bad solder joint in it causing it to intermittently not get out of 4wd.
STUCK 4X4 IS TYPICAL FOR OLD SCHOOL TOYOTA TRANSFER BOXES. JUST GET INTO 1ST GEAR, JUST JERK THE CAR FORWARDS AND REVERSE IN THE GEAR AND PULL THE 4X4 LEVER OUT INTO NEUTRAL AND TO 2HI. I HAVE DONE IT MANY TIMES AND ALWAYS WORKED. NOTHING BROKEN
Today is a good day. Coffee strong, PHAD on the tube. Today should be a gravy day in the shop. Most everything is done and the only one I have coming in is a Silverado with a dysfunctional window. They already fired the parts cannon at it (switch and regulator), and now they want someone to diagnose it. XD
@@_RiseAgainst Had the scope out for an 89 Silverado yesterday. Got my ass kicked for putting in an aftermarket ignition module. Came in dead, installed new module, came back 2 weeks later for full tune up. He never mentioned a running problem. Delco module cured all the problems. ;)
@@farmermiyagi1338 I put an after market distributor cap on my gm Sonoma. Ended with hair pulling Intermittent misfires for years. It only cause problems in very specific humid conditions. Ac delco fixed it. I'm am now an OEM believer.
I bet the ECU is bad and I suspect it's one of the relays... Should pop the tops off the relays in the control box. Might also be able to fix it by breaking the relays off the board and soldering on new relays to the metal contacts left protruding from the board and the wires from a new generic relay. That box looks like there is plenty of room in there for it to have relays floating around inside.
My bet is that the new box does not fix the problem,, my bet is that the actuator is the problem.. I'm basing that on nothing and ZERO knowledge and/or competence... lol
The Toyotas have been takin it on the chin lately, but that’s ok , They can take it. I know looks can be deceiving, but that circuit board just “ looks” too good to be bad. Even the 3rd gen’s have issues with the Transfer case actuators, from new. Amid claims it’s due to not using them for extended periods, but I respectfully say that’s BS. 👍👍🇺🇸
No salvage yards in beautiful Pine Holler? That's a shame. I guess ya can't have everything. We don't have one here either in Summit County Colorado and sometimes, just sometimes I wish I lived by one.
Ivan, Maybe I missed something about the 12V being absent/insufficient, but what if you used your voltage generator to inject proper voltage for testing purposes. What did I miss?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics good morning. My 15 year old son wants to be a mechanic. Is this diagnostics learned in school? Are you a master tech ? Or engineer ? Different. Thanks in advance. I tinker with cars but this is an entire other level. Engineering and electronics ?
I used to use Mitchell but just went to Alldata(DIY) . For whatever reason I couldn’t get logged into Mitchell, even after several phone calls. Finally did , payed the 1 month subscription for the vehicle I was working on, and couldn’t even get into their site the next day. Just said the hell with it and went to ALLDATA DIY. No problems. I just get the one month deal, as I don’t do enough complicated diagnostics to warrant the yearly rates. I think it is a good deal for part timers like myself.
4wd no diff lock is full-time 4wd...diff locked is part-time 4wd...this 4wd computer not being able to be accessed by a scanner to monitor all inputs and outputs has to be near the top of the stupidest things Toyota has ever done... I hate diagnosing these.
Things were so much easier, and more dependable when everything just worked with shift levers and gears and no electronics. Push buttons and computers are nothing but trouble.
TH-cam loves them... They've been a problem for years and they just leave it to channel owners to delete them. Most of them have a profile linking to scams of some sort.
I’m 56 and did most of my own work until the more complex stuff required more diagnostic tools . You’ve helped me with a few vehicles already, including a parasitic drag on a relative’s Avalon, intermittent loss of power to solenoid on my 06 Ram.
Got this from AMD at TCCN channel. The actuators get stuck either in 4wd or worse, in between 2 & 4. Once a month put it in 4H and drive for a few minutes and then 4L and drive for a few minutes. That will prevent the actuator from freezing up on you. A must for 4Runners. Great stuff once again brother!!
Soli Deo Gloria~
That’s great advice. Here’s some more. If you have an older forerunner and have almost never used four-wheel-drive, never try to use it again.
@ definitely!
Or you could get the
One model that has a mechanical 2 > 4 hi/Lo lever instead of electronics!
This is true in general. This case I just do.
@@XtheUnknown99 the fifth gen’s with a manual lever still have actuators.
Ivan, not sure on what to bet on. I guess I'll have to wait for Part 2! Thanks for Sharing! 🙃🙂
I'm a semi-retired mechanic love your content from NZ
I always manually energize the actuator motor and see if it frees up. Then I will use the interior controls and monitor the voltages at the PINs for switch input/out puts at the module.
I always enjoy watching your videos and alway learning something to add to my tool belt
What do you use to energize the motor? How do you know what polarity to use?
@@windward2818Power Probe will do it.
@windward2818 i have snap-ons version of the power probe. It has an adjustable breaker settings. I refer to a wiring diagram first. But usually it's just like a window motor , you just switch your leads and the motor moves the other way.
@@Pr0ph3cy-k5z The transfer case actuator is a +12V DC motor normally operated by a relay, but that is all we really know. Power Probe can energize +12V DC loads but is not current limited, it is protected by a circuit breaker function. We are more concerned with protecting the motor from over stress than the Power Probe.
To test and move the motor, it would be better to use a current limited +12VDC power supply. This way you could start at a current like 5 Amps momentarily to see if the motor moves, first one way and then reverse. If the motor does not move and is seized, the power supply will limit at 5 Amps and you know there is a potential motor issue.
I'm old enough to remember when grabbing the shifter and pulling into 4WD actually meant you where pulling it into 4WD including center diff lock and unlock.
I am old.
The only problem with being old is your mind is OVER filled with knowledge and experience
@@tomtke7351but other body parts are underfilled
Wish they still did it that way. Why use a motor to engage 4wd when a lever works just fine.
@_RiseAgainst I'm doing independent study about HGH (human growth hormone) that's definately lacking in seniors. HGH is required to repair tissue scarred by exercise resulting in DOMS (delayed onset muscle soreness.) Unfortunately the medical community poo poos the administration of HGH to seniors as it's only effective as injection. Glad you asked.👍
@@_RiseAgainst 🤣🤣👌
Great job diagnosing Ivan. Anyone else happy to see an owner bring a car with over half a tank of gas.
Ivan, I love how you use a trim tool for everything. And I have loved your videos for a long time.
I love the methodical way you test the I/O on the modules. and wrie out what you find. Great diagnoses.
This cracks me up. I used just get out turn in the hubs and pull a shifter 😂
I think you've got the right idea for testing. Is it possible to move the transfer case shaft to see if there's easy movement inside. If the case can be shifted to 2HI, that would be helpful to verify the internals are working.
On to part 2.
The PCB looks to be only a two layer board so tracing circuits is relatively easy if you back light the board. By tracing the circuits you will be able to see what the pins actually do and what type of I/O they are regardless of what the wiring diagram indicates. You will know exactly what each pin does. Using a DMM you should be able to understand all of the module functions and if they are working at the module connector, you should not need to use a test light unless you suspect a high resistance fault in the wiring and connections, which may require a test light but not in the beginning.
A 12VDC pull up power circuit for switch to ground feedback control is extremely simple. Either a bad solder joint, a crack in a trace, or a leaky capacitor damaging a trace.
To really look closely at the PCB solder joints it is best to use a zoom stereo microscope. You can see small cracks in bad solder joints not visible to the naked eye.
Overloaded circuit might also burn traces or overload protection components.
It's a bit more tricky if you have different voltages in the circuit and a voltage regulator dies, but as long as it doesn't put 12V on a 5V circuit or similar then it should be OK.
Great job, Ivan! A bit confusing problem, but you managed to make sense of it (at first, I thought it was a bad switch). On to Part 2, to clear all doubts 🙂
Better than when my '90 Miata was Stuck In Revere! 😉Often mis-diagnosed (mistakenly or deliberately) as a more serious (and costly) repair.😬
I know as far as 4x action my 99 J shift is a bit simpler than my 01 which uses this same system. When I had similar issues with my 01 it turned out to be rodents which when preparing for winter had decided to feed a bit on my actuator wiring lol. These are generally pretty rock solid, 9 times out of 10 it's usually something really simple. Fortunately in my case some solder type butt connectors helped me to remedy the very similar issue. This however goes to show that sometimes the process of properly and thoroughly electrical troubleshooting in the hands of a experienced diagnostician is absolutely the way it's got to be handled to get to the root of a component failure like this or so it would seem. Well see I guess, I have a feeling Ivan is right on the money though.
On those older Toyotas I've replaced a lot of front axle actuators and transfer case shift actuators.
I am going to say there is something else wrong in part 2. GREAT VIDEO!
Yes, I was right!
Been through similar with my 2004 Sequoia. Eventually managed to free it by manipulating shifter, moving forward and backwards etc. Figured just a lazy actuator due to not using it that much but who knows.
@@robbflynn4325 definitely is a thing. 😆 I've freed a few up and like magic no more problems.
This Makes me Miss the Ol' "FORD WIGGLE TEST"........ 😂😂😂😂😂😂 The
Seem to me just use it in winter snow only. I love these 4 runner. Can't find them any more used.
4WD System Outline in "Description and Operation" of ALLDATA gives a decent amount of info amazingly, including voltage/ground PID info.
Now here's a guy that loves a good brain tickling puzzle ! I got dizzy trying to keep up. I hate these 4 wheel drive systems. I had a 1999 suburban that had issues like this 4 runner has. Best I ever got was, it could be this or it could be that. I just sold the stupid thing.
I vote, yep, it'll fix it. You are thorough and detailed.
Just a correction,The button in left is for rear diff locker and only works in 4 low, not for center. Front diff add is most common problems on them,i hate it. We just swap them manual hubs lock.
Actually, the '01 & '02 4Runner 4WD did *not* have Rear Diff Lock. That is a Center Diff Lock button at 0:53 . I have '01 & '04 4x4 Tacomas, and they both have the Rear Diff Lock at the same location, left of the steering wheel. I wish my '01 4Runner had the RearDiffLock instead of the CenterDiffLock.
Good morning Ivan and PHAD fam 🫡🇺🇸
Maybe the ADD module got distracted?
😆 🤣 😂
Exactly what they told me in the signal corps you have to know how the device works and you have to know what you going to go look for before you get a voltmeter or in a silicone and try to look for the problem you're not allowed to troubleshoot if you have no clue as to what you're going to go do
You are spot on with Newer Toyota trucks
@@janpur1417 yeah they completely screwed the pooch there 😆
Outstanding diagnosis.
Thanks for the video Ivan.
Well at least it took the fuzzy smoke box 20+ yrs to fail. I had 2 units and 1 actuator die in my 01 Durango within 7yrs. They were replaced under extended warranty but I never trusted it, sold it in late 08.
Quite a system to do a simple job. Oh, it's not a simple job, because of the speed sensor. Maybe you hafta be rolling, but below a max speed before it will shift. Don't know about this case, but in some cases, a blinking light means it's trying to move a device, but is in between states and hasn't reached the final state yet. I'm wondering what good it does to be in 4wd if the center diff isn't locked. I know you will get it, for sure!
My fav toy is the 86 tacoma & this 4Runner!!
@PHAD Ivan, I wonder if the 4WD ECU has a/some bad capacitors? I know there were a bunch of defective caps showing up in electronics from late 2002 - 2004. They worked for several years then would swell and leak. If that is the case here, the replacement from eBay may be no better of. Just a WAG. The capacitors can be replaced with a great deal of fuss in many cases.
Without a fuss - derp.😊
noticed you managed to put new headlight buckets on the suz. a few of us would wonder how you managed to locate any. it is indeed rare something goes Kaput like this, but then there are those of us who, through general use, manage to push things over the edge of wear. only thing that came close to this in my personal experience was the deal with a Mitsubishi I had, but what I've learned here is telling me that almost every connection in that poor thing has probably shook loose and corroded.
Ebay for fresh Suzuki headlights 😎👍
Ordered a set of new headlights and added LEDs for the win. She lights up da road.
But she ate the rear axle bearings.
I finally got enough money to get all of my parts. Now I'm slowly getting it together.
Then my sister truck wheel bearing went bad. So now I need to get it done firsty.
It's 32' outside brrrrrr...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics last time I looked any up for my vehicles, they were a grand for the pair! this was 15 years ago, though
It seems like a missing rail in the computer. Most of the times makes sense to try and repair it.
That module seems simple enough that you might be able to replace it with an Arduino if push came to shove. The software would basically encode a state machine using those switches as inputs.
interesting
Another two part video! Lets Gooooo! Love the SUSPENCE Ivan!
With the central differential lock button, does this vehicle essentially have a full-time 4x4 transfer case until the central differential lock button is depressed?
First thoughts, .....the 4x4 Actuator in the front axle is jamed/broke in 4x4 mode
Why would they put the diff lock switch over on the dash instead of by the shift lever where it would make more sense? Come on Toyota!
I wanna see what would happen if you reflow those solder joints, it reminds me of that Ford you diagnosed some years ago where the relay had a bad solder joint in it causing it to intermittently not get out of 4wd.
STUCK 4X4 IS TYPICAL FOR OLD SCHOOL TOYOTA TRANSFER BOXES. JUST GET INTO 1ST GEAR, JUST JERK THE CAR FORWARDS AND REVERSE IN THE GEAR AND PULL THE 4X4 LEVER OUT INTO NEUTRAL AND TO 2HI. I HAVE DONE IT MANY TIMES AND ALWAYS WORKED. NOTHING BROKEN
I agree that this works in some cases
Today is a good day. Coffee strong, PHAD on the tube. Today should be a gravy day in the shop. Most everything is done and the only one I have coming in is a Silverado with a dysfunctional window. They already fired the parts cannon at it (switch and regulator), and now they want someone to diagnose it. XD
Bust out the Pico scope or you are not a true fan!
@@_RiseAgainst Had the scope out for an 89 Silverado yesterday. Got my ass kicked for putting in an aftermarket ignition module. Came in dead, installed new module, came back 2 weeks later for full tune up. He never mentioned a running problem. Delco module cured all the problems. ;)
@@farmermiyagi1338 I put an after market distributor cap on my gm Sonoma. Ended with hair pulling Intermittent misfires for years. It only cause problems in very specific humid conditions. Ac delco fixed it. I'm am now an OEM believer.
Thanks Ivan!
That's a good looking Tiota' 😁
I bet the ECU is bad and I suspect it's one of the relays... Should pop the tops off the relays in the control box. Might also be able to fix it by breaking the relays off the board and soldering on new relays to the metal contacts left protruding from the board and the wires from a new generic relay. That box looks like there is plenty of room in there for it to have relays floating around inside.
Awesome diag Ivan
My bet is that the new box does not fix the problem,, my bet is that the actuator is the problem..
I'm basing that on nothing and ZERO knowledge and/or competence... lol
Hey. Any chance you could do a Black Friday Scanner special this year? I’m in the market for a new scanner and loved your video last year.
Nice video Ivan.
The Toyotas have been takin it on the chin lately, but that’s ok , They can take it. I know looks can be deceiving, but that circuit board just “ looks” too good to be bad. Even the 3rd gen’s have issues with the Transfer case actuators, from new. Amid claims it’s due to not using them for extended periods, but I respectfully say that’s BS. 👍👍🇺🇸
No salvage yards in beautiful Pine Holler? That's a shame. I guess ya can't have everything. We don't have one here either in Summit County Colorado and sometimes, just sometimes I wish I lived by one.
Several yards within a reasonable distance of State College, but why if you don't have to?
Ivan,
Maybe I missed something about the 12V being absent/insufficient, but what if you used your voltage generator to inject proper voltage for testing purposes.
What did I miss?
To bad the 4x4 module doesnt have the ability to detect and store DTC pids !
they just cant leave a perfectly good old manual high and low shifter alone they had to go to fancy electronics ,shhs
Too many potential gremlins 😊
I took the title as saying it was YOUR truck having the problem.
Good luck you've lost me!
What about the internal relays perhaps they're not working
Hi Ivan. Is there a link or something where I can go to purchase the test leads like you have connected to the clamp meter in this video? Thank you!
AESWAVE.COM!😊
Ivan: As a proof of concept, could you provide power on the two circuits to make sure that it works properly?
Was wondering the same thing
Plus experience!
shouldn't the 4x4 ecu be bolted to get ground ?
👍
It's the relays on the board
Stop it Toyotas don’t break… 😀
Hi Ivan. Please do me a favour. Gide me where I can Get these wiring Diagrams. Factory and after market both. It will be very helpful. Thanks
All Data, Mitchell, Pro Demand, oem service manuals
ALLDATA all the way!!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics good morning. My 15 year old son wants to be a mechanic. Is this diagnostics learned in school? Are you a master tech ? Or engineer ? Different. Thanks in advance. I tinker with cars but this is an entire other level. Engineering and electronics ?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnosticsalldata diy?
I used to use Mitchell but just went to Alldata(DIY) . For whatever reason I couldn’t get logged into Mitchell, even after several phone calls. Finally did , payed the 1 month subscription for the vehicle I was working on, and couldn’t even get into their site the next day. Just said the hell with it and went to ALLDATA DIY. No problems. I just get the one month deal, as I don’t do enough complicated diagnostics to warrant the yearly rates. I think it is a good deal for part timers like myself.
4wd no diff lock is full-time 4wd...diff locked is part-time 4wd...this 4wd computer not being able to be accessed by a scanner to monitor all inputs and outputs has to be near the top of the stupidest things Toyota has ever done... I hate diagnosing these.
crazy!
Happy to Own old school 4wd 😂😂😂 Nissan Patrol 160
Direct lock cables much more simple
The old yodas with the wheels 4wd on the Hub were simpler. You just get yourself out and lock it and engage the 4wd lever.
MAGA TRUMP 2024!!!
my add wont let me get past the add
Why always 2 parts. Love your content but ...
Its for the suspense!😀👍
The hidden costs of Toyota ownership
Hidden cost of ownership of a vehicle. That's why I work on my own stuff.
This seems to be overly complex. A purely mechanic operation would suit my needs much better. So much for AI.
Things were so much easier, and more dependable when everything just worked with shift levers and gears and no electronics. Push buttons and computers are nothing but trouble.
Whats with all the bots praising the video?
Probably trying to get some yt carma to make account look more legit!?
Your comments are very informative and always bring me joy when I read them.
Who you calling bot, bot? 🤖🤖🤖
Ivan pays his daddy Putin for views to elicit more youtube cash!
TH-cam loves them... They've been a problem for years and they just leave it to channel owners to delete them.
Most of them have a profile linking to scams of some sort.
Your such a smart logical thinking guy and you keep your Trump signs in plain view to trigger viewers I guess. I don't get it.
Why aren't you on the front lines in Ukraine serving Trump's boss?
why not using one of your many scanners?
hi watching you here in dallas
Thanks Ivan!