NEXT EPISODES: 22. th-cam.com/video/qZFRucADz5k/w-d-xo.html Good news.. bad news and a clue about a new car I've bought! Ferrari 308 23. th-cam.com/video/vNvLzyUdAmU/w-d-xo.html My cheap Ferrari 308 does have a major engine problem... FULL EPISODE LIST: th-cam.com/play/PL-JmG4958QS8v5Bn2lol3bm8YQ4UNRstU.html
This actual car was my fathers about 15 years ago and was in our family for quite a lot of years, I recognised the registration number from the thumbnail. Drop me a line if you would like to know any more about the history and provenance of your car! Great to see the car again!
Mr. Ian Tyrell is the way go for info, love to watch his channel, it's just pure knowledge sharing. Sure that when you get the car sorted, it will be a joy to ride.
I feel for you Jack! but on the bright side Iain Tyrell is a mechanical genius so at least you have the best help possible ! keep your chin up im sure everything will turn out just fine 🙂 👍
@@marcryvon You have to pay for his knowledge. There aren't many about with as much knowledge and as many contacts as Iain Tyrrell. He is THE top man and for that, you have to pay through the nose.
It's better value to pay top dollars to someone who knows and fixes the issue "in no time" vs. paying someone trying to figure out what's wrong and spending a lot of time on that and maybe get it a bit better...also many times you might eventually need to go to the expert and get him to permanently fix the root cause of the issue....
Not sure about the "labour of love" bit, I think it is just classic Ferrari ownership, which is why Ferrari sell new ones with a 7 year warranty. Just too many bad stories and experiences from previous owners. Older models up to the 458 are just not durable enough for occasional use...
The mayo issue could be lack of regular use over a long time. Much more condensation build up on short journeys. Take it to Scotland and back then take a look. Also analyse the sump oil.
Thermostat could also be allowing the engine to run too cold. Could be defective but many people put in low temperature thermostats in the mistaken belief that it will help prevent overheating.
I agree with majorscope. When you constantly do short trips, the engine never has the time to heat up fully and evaporate the condensation built up from a cool engine warming. Hence the appearance of water in the oil. It needs to be driven at length under stress, periodically, to eliminate the moisture buildup. As for the blow by system (tube stopped up with mayonnaise)now that its clean, I'd definitely check the PCV valve for more sludge and the air filters for possible oil blow back.
Cars do not like sitting un-used for ages. Especially mid engine cars with the engine bay exposed to the weather. Putting a wet car in the garage or under a cover will also create a ton of condensation. Same if you put a hot engine under a cover on cold day.
Always pop the cam covers when changing the timing belts on these to check that the marks on the cams to the notches on the journal caps line up. No need to use a dial wheel and gauges with 2v engines as they are far more forgiving than 4v engines, just line up the marks at PM1-4. Once that is confirmed: When checking total ignition advance, ‘total’ timing is only seen once all the weights and springs are fully compressed, which is at 6000rpm and up. The factory says to check for 34 degrees at 5000rpm, but the factory doesn’t say the distributor still has some more advance to go above that. These early 2v carb engines like to run 37-38 degrees total timing at 6000rpm and up, which usually translates to 34 at 5000rpm. I prefer to check and make certain the engine is getting a boatload of timing in this inefficient hemi head by even under 4000rpm, but that is incredibly challenging to set up on a distributor machine. An electromotive crank trigger system does wonders for these. Next: carb jetting. With current gasoline and F36 emulsion tubes, every carb 308 I’ve tuned loves a 135 or 150 main jet with a 190 or 200 air corrector and 55 idle. They all have been within this range and when checking on wideband a/f meter it generally yields best a/f ratio for power with that combination, which is about 12.6:1. As an added benefit, the larger main jet will bring the main circuit a little sooner which often aids in the transition stumble from idle to main circuit. Best- J
Great video, even if you got some new troubles. Iain will help. However, engine not dropping back to idle is probably on of two. You have a air leak between carbs and the inlet. Your gaskets are failing to do the job or you have overtightened the carbs and made them banjo like. Then you need to sand down the fittings to make them even. Or two, the carbs are not syncronized properly after the rebuild. So the butterflies simply do not go down evenly. The water / moist... Well I belive it is the cold garage and the stop and starting. Most Ferraris are used only in sunny weather and warm garages. Don´t panic it is not a rebuild. If you have a small head gasket problem, why not retorque the headbolts. It may have been rebuild once and that was forgotten. Cheers from Norway!
good call sometimes but not in this case (assuming Jack's description is accurate) ... when he puts load on the engine to lower the rpm it stays down if there was an air leak the rpm would just rise straight up again as soon as he disengaged the load
His honesty as well. Doesn't try to present an Instagram perfect life, very open and shares the bad as well as the good. And ... he replies to comments. A lot of TH-camrs don't. Top man!
High tickover is likely to be an air leak from the carbs and I'd say that the moisture is condensation rather than HG. The cam timing may well be out, the only way to really check is by setting it up properly with a dial gauge on the cams. IIRC there are some marks on the cams, but I don't think they are terribly accurate and are best considered a starting point for setting your dial gauges up. It's a good opportunity to do the valve clearances too 👍
Iain is a legend and a fine gentleman as well. Glad to see you two working together. You both have highly educational and entertaining channels. I hope you guys can find a way to avoid a full rebuild. And remember, wear your belt. We need to keep you safe in the Infuenso. TH-cam would not be the same without you!
Jack, I have spent the last day binging on your 308 journey. It is a car that I still covet. I was so broken up when you had the “accident” with the jack. I must say, you rebounded so well and the car looks FANTASTIC! I like the front spoiler, but was surprised how well removing the rear spoiler improved the look. I am across the pond but have always preferred the euro bumper and lighting kit. You really have outdone yourself! Great job!!
Haha yes, I agree...watching “Ratarossa” who just picked up a project 512BBI...I’m astounded at how he is planning a rebuild in such a small garage!! I complain about my 30’x40’ barn sometimes 😂.
Jack, I agree with what many others have said. I wouldn't be worrying about the mayo (yet), looks like there was so much that breathers were blocked and the vapours could no longer escape which worsened the buildup. Clear all the gunk, check that the breather system now works and then focus your attention on the new running issues which can probaby be fixed with tuning & timing. I have fitted a catch tank to the breather system in my classic, its been on a few years and I can reliably say in summer I get a few ml per 1000miles, in winter I can catch maybe 150ml of oil/water mix in only 500miles (and I don't do short journeys)!!!!
I feel your pain. I have a number of cars/bikes that give me the same trouble. You will get to the bottom of the problems I am sure. So glad also you have stayed firmly planted with your TH-cam videos. Not gone all commercial like tavarish and very sad ratarossa. Sending spannering good wishes.
Thumbs up with your Influenzo. Great to watch and fantastic, that Mr Iain Tyrrell is going to help. His decision to share knowledge and experience in public is just a great idea. I like your videos on Influenzo, because it is fun and a lot of us (amateurs owning and repairing classic cars - at least trying to) will find ourselves in it. I also had few "mysterious" faults with my old cars ... My friends the same
That Ian Tyrrell chap just oozes class to me. I don't know why, other than him being nice and well spoken, but it's a British thing as well. Fingers crossed for your engine!
Great video, just subscribed. Being 47 years young myself I thought there's a chap with good taste. 308 in the garage plus vintage RC cars, so 80s oh happy times! 👍👌
Ian definitely knows his stuff. No surprise there. I got the same advice from the experts here in the States re: idle jetting and carb floats with modern fuels. I recall tuning and syncing my rebuilt carbs. I was tutored to do the final adjustments by ear and test drive. Really satisfying when it was done. Also experienced multiple marks on cam banks... actually contributed my fair share 😊. Finally removed them all and went back to original factory marks and verification of piston versus valve positions to get it right. Not sure about condensation in your cross tube. That's a new one for me. Keep your chin up and plugging away at it. Like Ian said it's a very sweet engine that sings at high revs when it's all sorted!
The fun these 308's give. Check the cam timing. My engine was rebuilt in the mid 90's by a ferrari specialist I completed a rebuild myself last year. And found one inlet cam had actually been a tooth out. I've put 55 jets in and bigger mains. Runs so much better. Check for air leaks on the inlet. Also regarding water?? The inlet manifolds can become corroded where they meet the head, as water is channelled along. Wonder if this is how its getting in, but then possibly expect to see steam in the exhaust.. Maybe a full oil change and see if it comes back. Have fun.
Jack - don’t despair! In all the time I have been banging my head on the floor with mine, I end up constantly surprised that problems I thought were terminal have turned out to be fixable without tearing the motor down completely. My engine has never been completely apart in the twenty years I have owned it. I did the carbs just like you did. I went to 60 idle jets but you also need to adjust the idle mixture screws. The “idle” circuit in these Webers isn’t just for running at idle. They control the breathing up to something like 3000 revs after which the mains kick in. Subsequently I went to John Pogson who did all the fine tuning, in the way you’re going to get Iain to do and despite the kick in the balls my credit card took, my God it’s like a different car. It’s beautiful. Anyway, that was the carbs, but the reason for my comment is to tell you about the problem that I had at the same time with the cooling circuit. I took the manifolds off when the carbs were off to clean them up and check them and it was a good job that I did. Some of the water galleries down into the head were battered to buggery. The water cavitates as it flows through some of the pipes and galleries through the engines. It swirls, bubbles and acts like an ultrasonic bath in certain areas. Add a bit of rusty muck and you get a very efficient way of eroding the metal where this is happening. Although with my manifolds there hadn’t been any “breakthrough”, it was very, very close in two or three places. If you have something similar in your engine and there’s a leak which has been created by this cavitation which then sprays water mist into the inlet tract(s), then there’s your mayo and there’s your less than fabulous running at high revs. As I say, I wasn’t at that point, but it wasn’t far away. I had the cavities in the manifold carefully filled with weld and then I rubbed down the excess, finishing on a sheet of glass with grinding paste (very fine paste used for glass grinding though, not valve grinding paste, so be careful). All good. And like I say, the subsequent carb set up after reassembly made it feel like a completely different car. Keep on it, mate! Yours is a beautiful piece of kit and, after all, who the f... wants to drive something that doesn’t need fixing regularly? Where’s the fun in that?!
Hey buddy, thank you for the advice and encouragement.. I doubt it’s getting in the inlet as there is no smoke when running.. but possible!! Have a great Christmas 🎄!
Hope the Ferrari Santa brings you a bit more luck with the InfluEnzo this Christmas. Lovely to see the Iain being so generous with his time and knowledge. Good luck with the car in 2021.
Agree with the comments about Iain Tyrrell the find of 2020 along with Ratarossa and Franies Garage. Keep your chin up Jack, your car is stunning and will get even better and it all makes for great content!
I owned a celica six-r and it ran great, pulled good down low but top end was rubbish, the timing belt was two teeth out. Fingers crossed should be a simple solution for an awesome car. Can’t wait for the result. Cheers Jack.
Iain's comments about the distributor mechanism is quite important. I helped a neighbour with his Triumph Herald that wasn't running well at all. The bob weights in the distributor were frozen in place with dried out lube, so no mechanical advance. The vacuum advance unit was punctured, so no vacuum advance. The car was running with whatever static advance it was set up at idle. Now, given that your distributor is at the limits of its adjustment range, I'd suggest that your initial static advance is screwed up, and the mechanical advance isn't adequate at high speed because the distributor is in the wrong position. Many things are pointing at incorrect cam timing. Put a timing light on it and see what is going on with that distributor. Just remember, the 308 is likely an interference engine, so if you reset the timing belts incorrectly, you could bend a lot of valves very quickly. Be ultra careful and, if you do adjust the timing belts, rotate the engine by hand and stop if there is any interference and don't press harder.
Hi Jack. My I suggest getting a sample of coolant analysed for oil / hydrocarbon contamination and do a compression test in order to rule in (or out) head gasket failure. I t might save you a lot of work. You could also do a coolant system pressure test. If there is no goo in the coolant header tank it might just be condensation in a breather pipe ...if that is what it is....good luck and keep enthusiastic!
@@Number27 oh, I meant to say I had a lotus which would not return to idle speed....it turned out to be leaking float combined with air leaks at the throttle spindle seals.....the bearings were perfect, but the seals were hard and slightly off the bearing seat. The care drove fine at wider throttle openings. !!
If you’re familiar with a cylinder pressure differential check that could eliminate your worries about , rings, valves, head gasket , block etc. This is not to be confused with the usual automotive compression check . we use this on aircraft piston engines regularly. Very easy to do but you need the proper gauges. Not too expensive
I have found in the past, with motorcycle engines, that this time of year you can get a lot of condensation buildup in the cases if you don't get the lump uup to full temp. Short runs just make it worse - if you are just doing short test runs this may be your problem. Aircooled engines can buildup quite a lot of mayonaise this time of year. A good long run generally boils it off.
Deep breath, Jack and keep the faith. You'll get it sorted eventually, especially with Iain on the case. You've been soldiering on admirably. Merry Christmas!
Hi Jack, I agree with a prev post ,these cars take more than a local trip to shops to get fully warmed through ,especially as it's not a daily use car, as a consequence mayo can build up . Thinking of costs 1st , I would be inclined to whip the cam covers off ,take the plugs out so the engine is easier to turn over by hand,and see how the markers for the cam belt timing line up. You have already done carb clean , I would ere on the side of caution before declaring for a full engine rebuild. I presume she's not losing oil or water so think set up 1st......then take her for a really good run. Best of luck
From my little experience with carbs, having the mixture screw too far out causes the revs to hang and not briskly return to idle. My dell or to book says to start off with them 3 turns out, then one barrel on one carb at a time slowly turn clockwise until the engine starts to stutter, then turn in back anti clockwise out 1/4 turn. And move onto the next barrel/carb.
Keep in mind that you did what you could to tune the car for it’s mechanical condition at the time. Then, when you change one thing with the car (timing, carb settings including cleaning jets, exhaust, secondary air pumps, etc.) then your car will instantly run rougher until you retune it. Even a disconnected or leaking vacuum line will cause you to retune the engine FROM THE BEGINNING once you fix it. Break it down into its most basic components. Does the engine have acceptable compression and leak-down in ALL cylinders? Are there ANY vacuum, air, or fuel leaks at all? Are the spark plugs gapped correctly and the correct temperature for the car? Is the engine timed with itself correctly (camshafts to crankshaft)? Is the distributor in perfect working order (including and especially the vacuum advance if there is one)? Is the distributor curved properly? Is it timed with the engine with a timing light? Are all fueling components working well (pump, filters)? THEN AND ONLY THEN, tune the carbs to match the engine. Then you’ve given your car the best possible chance of running correctly, without tuning the car to make up for something else wrong. Think very methodically and simply. And a vacuum gauge is your friend. Sorry for the long comment. Hope this helps.
You react exactly how I would, this is such a roller-coaster, I couldn't handle it - the feeling of helplessness then total relief then helplessness, then relief. Worse than a Turkish massage without the oils.
I've had the same gunk build up in a crank case breather pipe on a motorbike. I panicked when I first saw it but was told it was caused by condensation and not to worry. Never had any issues and enjoyed the bike for many thousands of miles. It's winter and cold, your engine gets hot and then cools down and the condensation builds up every time you start the engine I wouldn't be overly worried yet.
The sludge in the pipe really looked like condensation build up, water was clear, very white deposit. If it was mayo, it would be brownish, smell a lot like oil, and you could even spot small droplets of coolant (green or whatever color yours is) at least I hope it's still minor. One (more expensive) tool I appreciate when tuning, is a wideband lambda sensor with a gauge (bung weld and a bit of wiring needed though). I have an Aem uego, and man it helps to understand a lot of things on the fly. It has a sputter or a flat spot, check the afr and it tells so much.
To be honest, I only clicked the link to your vdeo because the tiltle stated 'featuring Iain Tyrell' and I'm pleased to say that I've enjoyed watching. My classic is also carburetted so you have some very relevant content there. I can also relate to the fact that the transition from joy to despair is but a turn of the key, a press of the pedal or the removal of a pipe away. I wish you all the best and you now have another sucsriber.
Jack, I am continually impressed by your refusal to be defeated by the Influenzo! I had a Triumph TR8 named Basil Faulty that gave me similar unending issues, including catching fire during its MOT, complete brake failure, fuel pump issues etc etc. Once I had finally succeeded in making Basil a reliable driver.....I sold it as he had exhausted my enthusiasm. Keep it up.
I think you'll be best served by focusing on one problem at a time and don't allow yourself to get distracted by a new discovery mid-fix. Right now your task is to sort the lack of power at the top end. OK so take a look at the cam belts as Iain suggested and make sure the cams are correctly synched. If so, then it sounds like the distributor is the next suspect, given that it has been turned well beyond the midway point. BTW - you've probably looked at this already, but years ago my brother's car had a similar issue: everything appeared correct in the garage and on the road it would rev and accelerate fine at lower speeds, but just wouldn't pull the way it should once the speed got higher. Turned out the fuel pump wasn't able to make full pressure, so couldn't provide enough petrol under full load and high revs. Put in a new one, instantly sorted.
I really feel for you! what a rollercoaster!! Your videos perfectly show the agony and ecstacy that you many go through when working on their own cars! The closest I have got to your situation is 2 years of Maserati 3200 ownership, also a rollercoaster feeling worried about many things but also loving the car too.
When adjusting the throttle, look the little wholes are not open!brasscrew off.use the little 5mm synchroscrews. The little stroke brings not enough gasspeed for the mainsystem by little rev. So you have to use the synchroscrews .Ask Mr Tyrell. This carbs are very sharp
hopefully, the mayo in your water isn't a warped/cracked cylinder head.. got my fingers crossed for you pal hopefully it's just the head gasket split between oil/water jacket seals.
Condense? Drive the car for over an hour for several times so it really heats up and then check this pipe again. Specifically on cold days you get this condense if cars don’t heat up due to short hobby trips.
Removing the spark plugs and checking for colour and condition may help with diagnosing the water problem. Also agree with others, the car might need a decent run, and a bit of a thrash to de- moisturise the engine.
Those throttle shaft bearings are worn and leaking .... you can see the streaks on the throttle plates @ 3:49.This will cause loss of signal. Replace the bearings with rubber seals and not open cage bearings. I have run into this issue on Weber IDA 3C carbs I think the engine has a few things going on . Carbs , cam timing and ignition timing
I see what you mean on the throttle plates but the marks are also next to the spindle hole in the centre where air can’t be coming in.. also I have sprayed carb cleaner around the bearings and it doesn’t affect running speed?? Great spot though. I’ll show Iain when I see him.
Well just my 3 cents: Remember that a full tune up begins with determining correct timing, proper ignition(spark,wires, distributor(s)advance(s) and then carburetion lastly! You may have gone the other way since the beginning not following any real order. Regarding the idle jets Ian is correct, many carb 308 cars in America now need more now because of fuel differences back in the 70s. because many 308's were fitted with small idle jets to make them run lean for for emission tests but ran poorly(popping and misfire at low rpm) . Going from stock .50 to .55 or .55 to .60 will make a big improvement and needed enrichment. Also make sure the air corrector jets are the same, they are sometimes mismatched due to meddling by former owners. Insofar as revs not returning to idle make sure to check each carb throttle stop screws and and throttle cable adjuster. Keep going, don't give up, all the best for the Xmas Holidays, M from Canada.
Highs and lows mate, checking the timing's free, and then you know where you're at, the distributor workings sound worthwhile chasing up on too, chin up!
Sorry to hear about your woes. Several things spring to mind. If the 'Bob weights' in the distributor are even a tiny bit cruddy the engine will be flat as a fart from the get go. The cam timing should be absolutely bang on. Unfortunately, I think that's where the problem is. Just looking at the position of the distributor raises questions! As for the gunk in the breather pipe. If you are not having to top up the coolant then I don't think the problem is a head gasket/oil cooler (linked to the rad?)/engine rebuild. For every gallon (litre) of fuel the engine burns you will get an equivalent amount of condensation (water) during the combustion process. This will burn off harmlessly if the vehicle is doing long journeys. If it's just popping down the road from time to time then you can guarantee the engine won't dry out and the condensation will mix with the oil and 'emulsify'. This is the gunk you are seeing I think. The other thing that suffers is the exhaust. They tend to corrode from the inside out because of all the water sat in there. Again, this isn't an issue if the vehicle is taken on long (regular) runs. The exhaust gets super hot and the condensation will be burnt off! Best of luck with the car.
Really. Interesting video - I’ve owned a 246 GTS and 308 until a few years ago and this was very informative - respect to you for taking on this challenge
What a journey this has all been for us, your subscribers, Jack. I hope it's boosted your numbers as I hopes it would from day one. One thing is for sure, your pain and stress makes great content... Get the timing right, let Ian do the carbs and worry about the water last. You may find, as many of your followers think, the issue is far less of a problem than you fear. Don't be deterred or give up on your machine. It's still got lots of content left in it!
I had a similar idle issue with my 1978 308 after rebuilding the carbs. The carb throttle plate position is critical on progressive port carbs. I discovered that I had assembled the throttle plates with the first progressive port hole not covered correctly.
revs holding high can be a leak between the carbs and the head so check the seals between the exit of the carbs and the entrance to the heads, it doesnt take much of a leak either.
If you're not losing coolant then it's water vapor from the combustion process getting past the rings and condensing in the PVC system. It is a normal combustion by-product in all internal combustion engines, most of it leaves via the tailpipe though.
Start with a carb sync. Check that timing and sort it out. Once you get it set up the way it was meant to be, take it out for a long hot run once a week. Your hard work will be well rewarded.
This is the best story on the web. Love the updates and all the detail. Twists, turns, cliffhanger ending....you just need the Eastenders tune after your comment about a cracked block. Honestly though, you're as bad as I am, thinking the very worst for each situation. Counselling could be the way forwards. You really need to bring this car to Festival Italia at Brands Hatch in 2021. It'd be great to see it in the flesh.
Thank you for your content. You've thoroughly dissuaded me from ever even remotely considering doing a 308 restoration. It's something in my budget if I spaced it out. But it looks to be a complete nightmare. Cheers !
Great video, one of the best yet on the Enzo. keep them coming. Your positive attitude and enthusiasm will overcome the problems with the 308 I am sure. Apart from the water in the pipe issue and the timing, I presume you are adding the Castrol Fuel Additive to the unleaded fuel? I am assuming the valve seats have not been attended to. Looking forward to the next video, great stuff!
I will bet it’s the head gaskets. It’s the weak link on those amazing engines. Don’t feel bad Jack, the possible engine rebuilt will be great TH-cam content, especially if Iain Tyrrell is involved. Can’t wait!
Good man Jack. I’d check the oil for signs of moisture. Check the valve timing first, then set up the ignition timing and then look at a vacuum or gasket leak around the carbs.
Float bowls? Timing...there's a look to check. Water - what's on the dip stick? Condensation is always a problem on older engines and short-ish journeys. The other quick check is an MOT exhaust gas analyser, could save a lot of fiddling. As far as fuel is concerned Shell V-Power 99RON is great and all I would be into a car like that. Good luck, we're all routing for that car!
An inability to lower the idle speed can be an indication of an air leak or too much air getting into the induction system. Check the carb mounts. Spray some WD40 around the carbs and see if the engine ramps up. If it does then you have a bad carb to manifold seal.
Slow down Jack. You are in panic mode and your guesses are all over the map. Start with the idle issue - all you did was mess with the carbs so it's almost guaranteed that whatever is causing it involves that. As for the ignition timing - have you got a timing light? Start with that. Regarding the sludge in the breather you probably need to pull the cam covers off which you will want to do anyway to check your valve timing. Since Ian had mentioned it you would have been wise to have done that while the carbs were off since it would have been a lot easier but that's all water under the bridge now. Just adopt the attitude that you love tinkering with your Ferrari and the experience will be much more enjoyable. As Ian said, you're going to love it once you've sorted out all of the deferred maintenance issues.
NEXT EPISODES:
22. th-cam.com/video/qZFRucADz5k/w-d-xo.html Good news.. bad news and a clue about a new car I've bought! Ferrari 308
23. th-cam.com/video/vNvLzyUdAmU/w-d-xo.html My cheap Ferrari 308 does have a major engine problem...
FULL EPISODE LIST: th-cam.com/play/PL-JmG4958QS8v5Bn2lol3bm8YQ4UNRstU.html
This actual car was my fathers about 15 years ago and was in our family for quite a lot of years, I recognised the registration number from the thumbnail. Drop me a line if you would like to know any more about the history and provenance of your car! Great to see the car again!
Ian Tyrell is one of the best things I’ve found on the internet this year. A font of knowledge and a lovely style. Great to see him helping you out 👍
I've got to agree , he could easily have his own tv show.
Mr. Ian Tyrell is the way go for info, love to watch his channel, it's just pure knowledge sharing. Sure that when you get the car sorted, it will be a joy to ride.
It's wonderful to see others pitch in to help you out. No snobs here just car guys. Good on everybody.
I feel for you Jack! but on the bright side Iain Tyrell is a mechanical genius so at least you have the best help possible ! keep your chin up im sure everything will turn out just fine 🙂 👍
Iain Tyrell is a legend...
But very costly, unless he gives this bloke a break !
@@marcryvon You have to pay for his knowledge. There aren't many about with as much knowledge and as many contacts as Iain Tyrrell. He is THE top man and for that, you have to pay through the nose.
It's better value to pay top dollars to someone who knows and fixes the issue "in no time" vs. paying someone trying to figure out what's wrong and spending a lot of time on that and maybe get it a bit better...also many times you might eventually need to go to the expert and get him to permanently fix the root cause of the issue....
The cost of knowledge! For example a visit to experienced consultant cost way more than a newly licensed one
Wow, I love Iain Tyrrell
he's the best guy to ask about these classic cars
Absolute pleasure watching him work on classics. So completely in his element with his depth of knowledge.
These cars, they're such a labour of love! We love them, even though they constantly break our hearts!
Yes indeed!! Thanks for watching!
Not sure about the "labour of love" bit, I think it is just classic Ferrari ownership, which is why Ferrari sell new ones with a 7 year warranty. Just too many bad stories and experiences from previous owners. Older models up to the 458 are just not durable enough for occasional use...
Great respect to Ian for being so helpful, engaged and down to earth! The quintessential gentleman.
Don’t give up on that 308! Keep it up 👍
The mayo issue could be lack of regular use over a long time. Much more condensation build up on short journeys. Take it to Scotland and back then take a look. Also analyse the sump oil.
Thermostat could also be allowing the engine to run too cold. Could be defective but many people put in low temperature thermostats in the mistaken belief that it will help prevent overheating.
I agree with majorscope. When you constantly do short trips, the engine never has the time to heat up fully and evaporate the condensation built up from a cool engine warming. Hence the appearance of water in the oil. It needs to be driven at length under stress, periodically, to eliminate the moisture buildup. As for the blow by system (tube stopped up with mayonnaise)now that its clean, I'd definitely check the PCV valve for more sludge and the air filters for possible oil blow back.
Take it on a decent trip. Lots of short trips in the English gloom is bound to have it all condensated up
Cars do not like sitting un-used for ages. Especially mid engine cars with the engine bay exposed to the weather.
Putting a wet car in the garage or under a cover will also create a ton of condensation. Same if you put a hot engine under a cover on cold day.
Always pop the cam covers when changing the timing belts on these to check that the marks on the cams to the notches on the journal caps line up. No need to use a dial wheel and gauges with 2v engines as they are far more forgiving than 4v engines, just line up the marks at PM1-4.
Once that is confirmed:
When checking total ignition advance, ‘total’ timing is only seen once all the weights and springs are fully compressed, which is at 6000rpm and up. The factory says to check for 34 degrees at 5000rpm, but the factory doesn’t say the distributor still has some more advance to go above that. These early 2v carb engines like to run 37-38 degrees total timing at 6000rpm and up, which usually translates to 34 at 5000rpm. I prefer to check and make certain the engine is getting a boatload of timing in this inefficient hemi head by even under 4000rpm, but that is incredibly challenging to set up on a distributor machine. An electromotive crank trigger system does wonders for these.
Next: carb jetting. With current gasoline and F36 emulsion tubes, every carb 308 I’ve tuned loves a 135 or 150 main jet with a 190 or 200 air corrector and 55 idle. They all have been within this range and when checking on wideband a/f meter it generally yields best a/f ratio for power with that combination, which is about 12.6:1. As an added benefit, the larger main jet will bring the main circuit a little sooner which often aids in the transition stumble from idle to main circuit.
Best- J
Fantastic reply
Great video, even if you got some new troubles. Iain will help. However, engine not dropping back to idle is probably on of two. You have a air leak between carbs and the inlet. Your gaskets are failing to do the job or you have overtightened the carbs and made them banjo like. Then you need to sand down the fittings to make them even. Or two, the carbs are not syncronized properly after the rebuild. So the butterflies simply do not go down evenly. The water / moist... Well I belive it is the cold garage and the stop and starting. Most Ferraris are used only in sunny weather and warm garages. Don´t panic it is not a rebuild. If you have a small head gasket problem, why not retorque the headbolts. It may have been rebuild once and that was forgotten. Cheers from Norway!
good call sometimes but not in this case (assuming Jack's description is accurate) ... when he puts load on the engine to lower the rpm it stays down if there was an air leak the rpm would just rise straight up again as soon as he disengaged the load
Always remember this important rule: "90% of carburation problems are ignition-related"!
This has sailed up to be one of my favorite channels the last six months. Jack’s humor is stellar!
That is very kind.. thank you!!
Agreed
His honesty as well. Doesn't try to present an Instagram perfect life, very open and shares the bad as well as the good. And ... he replies to comments. A lot of TH-camrs don't. Top man!
Mr. Tyrrell joining your channel; you Sir have made it; well done.
Thanks Timothy.. he’s a great chap!!
Chin up chap, I feel your pain but appreciate you taking us on this rollercoaster ride. You will sort it and we will all share the elation with you.
"Have a good Christmas" = don't call me again before then 😅
😄 he’s off on holiday to South Africa!
hahaha thought the same thing - meant in a gentlemanly way of course.
@@Number27 Lucky him. That explains it. 😁
Totally - just bring the car up and we can PX it for something that is fettled. Will give you a fair price...honest ;-)
High tickover is likely to be an air leak from the carbs and I'd say that the moisture is condensation rather than HG. The cam timing may well be out, the only way to really check is by setting it up properly with a dial gauge on the cams. IIRC there are some marks on the cams, but I don't think they are terribly accurate and are best considered a starting point for setting your dial gauges up. It's a good opportunity to do the valve clearances too 👍
Don’t be down, it’s always fun to have a project. Live through the lows and enjoy the highs!
Bless you brother. It’s great exhilarating anguish watching you struggle through each problem. You’ll get this one!
You're in an abusive relationship now with a long past her prime super model.
Perfect analogy!
I went through the same kind of relationship with much younger models. I am conflicted on whether they are worth it or not.
@@UncleBucksHat Forget finances, rate it in smiles per gallon
@@Galatzo 2 Amber Heards out of 5.
Iain is a legend and a fine gentleman as well. Glad to see you two working together. You both have highly educational and entertaining channels. I hope you guys can find a way to avoid a full rebuild. And remember, wear your belt. We need to keep you safe in the Infuenso. TH-cam would not be the same without you!
Jack, I have spent the last day binging on your 308 journey. It is a car that I still covet. I was so broken up when you had the “accident” with the jack. I must say, you rebounded so well and the car looks FANTASTIC! I like the front spoiler, but was surprised how well removing the rear spoiler improved the look. I am across the pond but have always preferred the euro bumper and lighting kit. You really have outdone yourself! Great job!!
I’m always impressed with the amount of work that goes on in English garages. They seem so small. Well done.
Thanks Keith!! And yes, they are tiny!!
Haha yes, I agree...watching “Ratarossa” who just picked up a project 512BBI...I’m astounded at how he is planning a rebuild in such a small garage!! I complain about my 30’x40’ barn sometimes 😂.
You are truly bonding with this car! Wishing for you that it's something simple! Great video, thanks for sharing.
Jack, I agree with what many others have said. I wouldn't be worrying about the mayo (yet), looks like there was so much that breathers were blocked and the vapours could no longer escape which worsened the buildup. Clear all the gunk, check that the breather system now works and then focus your attention on the new running issues which can probaby be fixed with tuning & timing. I have fitted a catch tank to the breather system in my classic, its been on a few years and I can reliably say in summer I get a few ml per 1000miles, in winter I can catch maybe 150ml of oil/water mix in only 500miles (and I don't do short journeys)!!!!
I really enjoy the adventure! Keep the fantastic content coming!
Why didn't you change the floats?? When you was advised to when rebuilding them??
They were on order.. now received but have other priorities right now!
@@Number27 Do you have plans to go back and fit the uprated floats Jack?
Yes, I have them now but want to get the car going right first before changing anything else
I feel your pain. I have a number of cars/bikes that give me the same trouble. You will get to the bottom of the problems I am sure. So glad also you have stayed firmly planted with your TH-cam videos. Not gone all commercial like tavarish and very sad ratarossa. Sending spannering good wishes.
@@truckpilot I LOVE ratarossa!
Thumbs up with your Influenzo. Great to watch and fantastic, that Mr Iain Tyrrell is going to help. His decision to share knowledge and experience in public is just a great idea. I like your videos on Influenzo, because it is fun and a lot of us (amateurs owning and repairing classic cars - at least trying to) will find ourselves in it. I also had few "mysterious" faults with my old cars ... My friends the same
That Ian Tyrrell chap just oozes class to me. I don't know why, other than him being nice and well spoken, but it's a British thing as well.
Fingers crossed for your engine!
Superb video JACK..........Keep persevering and you'll sort in the end and it will make you love the car even more mate!
Great video, just subscribed. Being 47 years young myself I thought there's a chap with good taste. 308 in the garage plus vintage RC cars, so 80s oh happy times! 👍👌
Yep! Those off-road RC cars didn't escape my attention. Some are boxed too. Decent examples sell for good money now. 😁
That’s fantastic, thanks for subbing David. Enjoy your 308
Ian definitely knows his stuff. No surprise there. I got the same advice from the experts here in the States re: idle jetting and carb floats with modern fuels.
I recall tuning and syncing my rebuilt carbs. I was tutored to do the final adjustments by ear and test drive. Really satisfying when it was done.
Also experienced multiple marks on cam banks... actually contributed my fair share 😊. Finally removed them all and went back to original factory marks and verification of piston versus valve positions to get it right.
Not sure about condensation in your cross tube. That's a new one for me.
Keep your chin up and plugging away at it. Like Ian said it's a very sweet engine that sings at high revs when it's all sorted!
Thank you Paul!! Hope you have a wonderful Christmas 🎄!
It'll come good in the end and then you'll fall in love with that engine all over again. It's just the journey getting there.
Great vid, your perseverance is admirable! Makes me look at my 914 which I’m slowly restoring with new vigour! Happy Christmas. 👍🤘
Looking forward to seeing the next episode. Your tenacity and humour will see you triumph.
Flipping heck, I freaked out stripping/rebuilding the twin carbs on the MGB, you’re a very brave boy Jack 😁
The fun these 308's give. Check the cam timing. My engine was rebuilt in the mid 90's by a ferrari specialist I completed a rebuild myself last year. And found one inlet cam had actually been a tooth out. I've put 55 jets in and bigger mains. Runs so much better. Check for air leaks on the inlet. Also regarding water?? The inlet manifolds can become corroded where they meet the head, as water is channelled along. Wonder if this is how its getting in, but then possibly expect to see steam in the exhaust..
Maybe a full oil change and see if it comes back.
Have fun.
Thanks Neil, as you say I would expect to see it in the exhaust if it was getting in the combustion chamber..
Jack - don’t despair!
In all the time I have been banging my head on the floor with mine, I end up constantly surprised that problems I thought were terminal have turned out to be fixable without tearing the motor down completely. My engine has never been completely apart in the twenty years I have owned it. I did the carbs just like you did. I went to 60 idle jets but you also need to adjust the idle mixture screws. The “idle” circuit in these Webers isn’t just for running at idle. They control the breathing up to something like 3000 revs after which the mains kick in. Subsequently I went to John Pogson who did all the fine tuning, in the way you’re going to get Iain to do and despite the kick in the balls my credit card took, my God it’s like a different car. It’s beautiful. Anyway, that was the carbs, but the reason for my comment is to tell you about the problem that I had at the same time with the cooling circuit. I took the manifolds off when the carbs were off to clean them up and check them and it was a good job that I did. Some of the water galleries down into the head were battered to buggery. The water cavitates as it flows through some of the pipes and galleries through the engines. It swirls, bubbles and acts like an ultrasonic bath in certain areas. Add a bit of rusty muck and you get a very efficient way of eroding the metal where this is happening. Although with my manifolds there hadn’t been any “breakthrough”, it was very, very close in two or three places. If you have something similar in your engine and there’s a leak which has been created by this cavitation which then sprays water mist into the inlet tract(s), then there’s your mayo and there’s your less than fabulous running at high revs. As I say, I wasn’t at that point, but it wasn’t far away. I had the cavities in the manifold carefully filled with weld and then I rubbed down the excess, finishing on a sheet of glass with grinding paste (very fine paste used for glass grinding though, not valve grinding paste, so be careful). All good. And like I say, the subsequent carb set up after reassembly made it feel like a completely different car.
Keep on it, mate! Yours is a beautiful piece of kit and, after all, who the f... wants to drive something that doesn’t need fixing regularly? Where’s the fun in that?!
Hey buddy, thank you for the advice and encouragement.. I doubt it’s getting in the inlet as there is no smoke when running.. but possible!! Have a great Christmas 🎄!
I subscribed to Iain's channel a few month ago, its great he's helping you out. All these car places I never knew existed when I lived the UK
Yep he’s a great guy!! Thanks for watching buddy!
Hope the Ferrari Santa brings you a bit more luck with the InfluEnzo this Christmas. Lovely to see the Iain being so generous with his time and knowledge.
Good luck with the car in 2021.
Tyrells and Harry’s garage are the best automotive channels, Ian’s knowledge is just incredible.
Agree with the comments about Iain Tyrrell the find of 2020 along with Ratarossa and Franies Garage. Keep your chin up Jack, your car is stunning and will get even better and it all makes for great content!
Thanks you Andrew.. have a great Xmas!
Hang in there Bud, just love the videos!!
Thank you!!
I owned a celica six-r and it ran great, pulled good down low but top end was rubbish, the timing belt was two teeth out. Fingers crossed should be a simple solution for an awesome car. Can’t wait for the result. Cheers Jack.
I enjoyed your technical discussion with Tyrrell on carbs much more that I thought I would. The depth of his knowledge!
Iain's comments about the distributor mechanism is quite important. I helped a neighbour with his Triumph Herald that wasn't running well at all. The bob weights in the distributor were frozen in place with dried out lube, so no mechanical advance. The vacuum advance unit was punctured, so no vacuum advance. The car was running with whatever static advance it was set up at idle.
Now, given that your distributor is at the limits of its adjustment range, I'd suggest that your initial static advance is screwed up, and the mechanical advance isn't adequate at high speed because the distributor is in the wrong position. Many things are pointing at incorrect cam timing.
Put a timing light on it and see what is going on with that distributor.
Just remember, the 308 is likely an interference engine, so if you reset the timing belts incorrectly, you could bend a lot of valves very quickly. Be ultra careful and, if you do adjust the timing belts, rotate the engine by hand and stop if there is any interference and don't press harder.
Iain Tyrrell's TH-cam channel is great. His re-build of Harry's Espada is worth a watch.
Hi Jack. My I suggest getting a sample of coolant analysed for oil / hydrocarbon contamination and do a compression test in order to rule in (or out) head gasket failure. I t might save you a lot of work. You could also do a coolant system pressure test. If there is no goo in the coolant header tank it might just be condensation in a breather pipe ...if that is what it is....good luck and keep enthusiastic!
Yes good idea.. think I’ll do that!
@@Number27 oh, I meant to say I had a lotus which would not return to idle speed....it turned out to be leaking float combined with air leaks at the throttle spindle seals.....the bearings were perfect, but the seals were hard and slightly off the bearing seat. The care drove fine at wider throttle openings. !!
If you’re familiar with a cylinder pressure differential check that could eliminate your worries about , rings, valves, head gasket , block etc. This is not to be confused with the usual automotive compression check .
we use this on aircraft piston engines regularly.
Very easy to do but you need the proper gauges. Not too expensive
I have found in the past, with motorcycle engines, that this time of year you can get a lot of condensation buildup in the cases if you don't get the lump uup to full temp. Short runs just make it worse - if you are just doing short test runs this may be your problem. Aircooled engines can buildup quite a lot of mayonaise this time of year. A good long run generally boils it off.
Deep breath, Jack and keep the faith. You'll get it sorted eventually, especially with Iain on the case. You've been soldiering on admirably. Merry Christmas!
Really enjoy following your channel Jack, all the way from NZ. Hopefully Iain will be able to help. Keep up the good work. Phil.
Thank Phil and my best to New Zealand 🇳🇿!!
You, the Ferrari and Iain. What a treat.
Hi Jack, I agree with a prev post ,these cars take more than a local trip to shops to get fully warmed through ,especially as it's not a daily use car, as a consequence mayo can build up . Thinking of costs 1st , I would be inclined to whip the cam covers off ,take the plugs out so the engine is easier to turn over by hand,and see how the markers for the cam belt timing line up. You have already done carb clean , I would ere on the side of caution before declaring for a full engine rebuild. I presume she's not losing oil or water so think set up 1st......then take her for a really good run. Best of luck
From my little experience with carbs, having the mixture screw too far out causes the revs to hang and not briskly return to idle.
My dell or to book says to start off with them 3 turns out, then one barrel on one carb at a time slowly turn clockwise until the engine starts to stutter, then turn in back anti clockwise out 1/4 turn. And move onto the next barrel/carb.
That’s the best one yet. Getting Iain involved is such a brilliant idea. Hope the £££ don’t hurt too much. Well done.
Keep in mind that you did what you could to tune the car for it’s mechanical condition at the time. Then, when you change one thing with the car (timing, carb settings including cleaning jets, exhaust, secondary air pumps, etc.) then your car will instantly run rougher until you retune it. Even a disconnected or leaking vacuum line will cause you to retune the engine FROM THE BEGINNING once you fix it.
Break it down into its most basic components. Does the engine have acceptable compression and leak-down in ALL cylinders? Are there ANY vacuum, air, or fuel leaks at all? Are the spark plugs gapped correctly and the correct temperature for the car? Is the engine timed with itself correctly (camshafts to crankshaft)? Is the distributor in perfect working order (including and especially the vacuum advance if there is one)? Is the distributor curved properly? Is it timed with the engine with a timing light? Are all fueling components working well (pump, filters)? THEN AND ONLY THEN, tune the carbs to match the engine. Then you’ve given your car the best possible chance of running correctly, without tuning the car to make up for something else wrong. Think very methodically and simply. And a vacuum gauge is your friend.
Sorry for the long comment. Hope this helps.
Yep my thoughts exactly stephen!
You react exactly how I would, this is such a roller-coaster, I couldn't handle it - the feeling of helplessness then total relief then helplessness, then relief. Worse than a Turkish massage without the oils.
I own a DeLorean. I've been on this roller coaster too and I don't like it :D
Enjoying learning about the 308 and watching your road to victory... Cheers from the States
Hey thanks Michael and enjoy your weekend!
I've had the same gunk build up in a crank case breather pipe on a motorbike. I panicked when I first saw it but was told it was caused by condensation and not to worry. Never had any issues and enjoyed the bike for many thousands of miles. It's winter and cold, your engine gets hot and then cools down and the condensation builds up every time you start the engine I wouldn't be overly worried yet.
So sorry to hear this news, it’s been a real battle but keep your chin up. Best of luck with it and life in general for 2021
Iain really has an encyclopaedic knowledge. Really enjoy his videos.
The sludge in the pipe really looked like condensation build up, water was clear, very white deposit. If it was mayo, it would be brownish, smell a lot like oil, and you could even spot small droplets of coolant (green or whatever color yours is) at least I hope it's still minor.
One (more expensive) tool I appreciate when tuning, is a wideband lambda sensor with a gauge (bung weld and a bit of wiring needed though). I have an Aem uego, and man it helps to understand a lot of things on the fly. It has a sputter or a flat spot, check the afr and it tells so much.
Interesting to hear that.. thanks!
One of the things I found out was running a wideband O2 sensor with some logging really helps with jet selection.
To be honest, I only clicked the link to your vdeo because the tiltle stated 'featuring Iain Tyrell' and I'm pleased to say that I've enjoyed watching. My classic is also carburetted so you have some very relevant content there. I can also relate to the fact that the transition from joy to despair is but a turn of the key, a press of the pedal or the removal of a pipe away. I wish you all the best and you now have another sucsriber.
That’s great Dave, real glad you found watching me bearable and thanks for the sub! Wish you a really happy Christmas 🎄
Jack, I am continually impressed by your refusal to be defeated by the Influenzo! I had a Triumph TR8 named Basil Faulty that gave me similar unending issues, including catching fire during its MOT, complete brake failure, fuel pump issues etc etc. Once I had finally succeeded in making Basil a reliable driver.....I sold it as he had exhausted my enthusiasm. Keep it up.
Ha!! Similar story to my old Merc 107.. hated that thing !
Iain Tyrrell is a fountain of knowledge - always fascinating to listen to!
Yep he’s a great guy!!
And you'll probably need a fountain of cash to pay him
@@LOTPOR0402 I think Harry's Lamborghini V12 rebuild at Iain's workshop was around 25k pounds.
Iain, and his channel are absolutely top drawer.
I think you'll be best served by focusing on one problem at a time and don't allow yourself to get distracted by a new discovery mid-fix. Right now your task is to sort the lack of power at the top end. OK so take a look at the cam belts as Iain suggested and make sure the cams are correctly synched. If so, then it sounds like the distributor is the next suspect, given that it has been turned well beyond the midway point. BTW - you've probably looked at this already, but years ago my brother's car had a similar issue: everything appeared correct in the garage and on the road it would rev and accelerate fine at lower speeds, but just wouldn't pull the way it should once the speed got higher. Turned out the fuel pump wasn't able to make full pressure, so couldn't provide enough petrol under full load and high revs. Put in a new one, instantly sorted.
I really feel for you! what a rollercoaster!! Your videos perfectly show the agony and ecstacy that you many go through when working on their own cars! The closest I have got to your situation is 2 years of Maserati 3200 ownership, also a rollercoaster feeling worried about many things but also loving the car too.
When adjusting the throttle, look the little wholes are not open!brasscrew off.use the little 5mm synchroscrews. The little stroke brings not enough gasspeed for the mainsystem by little rev. So you have to use the synchroscrews .Ask Mr Tyrell. This carbs are very sharp
love the fact your rebuilding webbers in your living room .. Class :)
Something tells me he is single..
hopefully, the mayo in your water isn't a warped/cracked cylinder head.. got my fingers crossed for you pal hopefully it's just the head gasket split between oil/water jacket seals.
You know when all is said and done you'll be the 308 pro everyone seeks out! Sending positive vibes. You'll get it fixed.
Condense? Drive the car for over an hour for several times so it really heats up and then check this pipe again. Specifically on cold days you get this condense if cars don’t heat up due to short hobby trips.
Removing the spark plugs and checking for colour and condition may help with diagnosing the water problem. Also agree with others, the car might need a decent run, and a bit of a thrash to de- moisturise the engine.
Those throttle shaft bearings are worn and leaking .... you can see the streaks on the throttle plates @ 3:49.This will cause loss of signal. Replace the bearings with rubber seals and not open cage bearings. I have run into this issue on Weber IDA 3C carbs
I think the engine has a few things going on . Carbs , cam timing and ignition timing
I see what you mean on the throttle plates but the marks are also next to the spindle hole in the centre where air can’t be coming in.. also I have sprayed carb cleaner around the bearings and it doesn’t affect running speed?? Great spot though. I’ll show Iain when I see him.
Thank God for Iain!! What a legend!
Well just my 3 cents: Remember that a full tune up begins with determining correct timing, proper ignition(spark,wires, distributor(s)advance(s) and then carburetion lastly! You may have gone the other way since the beginning not following any real order.
Regarding the idle jets Ian is correct, many carb 308 cars in America now need more now because of fuel differences back in the 70s. because many 308's were fitted with small idle jets to make them run lean for for emission tests but ran poorly(popping and misfire at low rpm) . Going from stock .50 to .55 or .55 to .60 will make a big improvement and needed enrichment. Also make sure the air corrector jets are the same, they are sometimes mismatched due to meddling by former owners. Insofar as revs not returning to idle make sure to check each carb throttle stop screws and and throttle cable adjuster. Keep going, don't give up, all the best for the Xmas Holidays, M from Canada.
My word ! I’m working on my Alfa 916 and wish I had someone so knowledgeable to speak to for 10 minutes
Highs and lows mate, checking the timing's free, and then you know where you're at, the distributor workings sound worthwhile chasing up on too, chin up!
Sorry to hear about your woes. Several things spring to mind. If the 'Bob weights' in the distributor are even a tiny bit cruddy the engine will be flat as a fart from the get go. The cam timing should be absolutely bang on. Unfortunately, I think that's where the problem is. Just looking at the position of the distributor raises questions! As for the gunk in the breather pipe. If you are not having to top up the coolant then I don't think the problem is a head gasket/oil cooler (linked to the rad?)/engine rebuild.
For every gallon (litre) of fuel the engine burns you will get an equivalent amount of condensation (water) during the combustion process. This will burn off harmlessly if the vehicle is doing long journeys. If it's just popping down the road from time to time then you can guarantee the engine won't dry out and the condensation will mix with the oil and 'emulsify'.
This is the gunk you are seeing I think. The other thing that suffers is the exhaust. They tend to corrode from the inside out because of all the water sat in there. Again, this isn't an issue if the vehicle is taken on long (regular) runs. The exhaust gets super hot and the condensation will be burnt off! Best of luck with the car.
Really. Interesting video - I’ve owned a 246 GTS and 308 until a few years ago and this was very informative - respect to you for taking on this challenge
What a journey this has all been for us, your subscribers, Jack. I hope it's boosted your numbers as I hopes it would from day one. One thing is for sure, your pain and stress makes great content...
Get the timing right, let Ian do the carbs and worry about the water last. You may find, as many of your followers think, the issue is far less of a problem than you fear. Don't be deterred or give up on your machine. It's still got lots of content left in it!
Thank Lee.. have a great Xmas buddy!!
I had a similar idle issue with my 1978 308 after rebuilding the carbs. The carb throttle plate position is critical on progressive port carbs. I discovered that I had assembled the throttle plates with the first progressive port hole not covered correctly.
I didn’t touch e throttle plates for precisely that reason..
This is a Obi-Wan Kenobi passing his wisdom to Luke Skywalker moment 😀
You will go home and re-think your life.
revs holding high can be a leak between the carbs and the head so check the seals between the exit of the carbs and the entrance to the heads, it doesnt take much of a leak either.
Have already.. sprayed carb cleaner on bases but no leaks found.. thanks for the suggestion!
If you're not losing coolant then it's water vapor from the combustion process getting past the rings and condensing in the PVC system. It is a normal combustion by-product in all internal combustion engines, most of it leaves via the tailpipe though.
Thanks.. hoping that is the case
Start with a carb sync.
Check that timing and sort it out. Once you get it set up the way it was meant to be, take it out for a long hot run once a week. Your hard work will be well rewarded.
Did the carb sync already.. just wasn’t filmed. Thanks for watching!
This is the best story on the web. Love the updates and all the detail. Twists, turns, cliffhanger ending....you just need the Eastenders tune after your comment about a cracked block. Honestly though, you're as bad as I am, thinking the very worst for each situation. Counselling could be the way forwards. You really need to bring this car to Festival Italia at Brands Hatch in 2021. It'd be great to see it in the flesh.
Thank you for your content. You've thoroughly dissuaded me from ever even remotely considering doing a 308 restoration. It's something in my budget if I spaced it out. But it looks to be a complete nightmare. Cheers !
Great video, one of the best yet on the Enzo. keep them coming. Your positive attitude and enthusiasm will overcome the problems with the 308 I am sure. Apart from the water in the pipe issue and the timing, I presume you are adding the Castrol Fuel Additive to the unleaded fuel? I am assuming the valve seats have not been attended to. Looking forward to the next video, great stuff!
I will bet it’s the head gaskets. It’s the weak link on those amazing engines.
Don’t feel bad Jack, the possible engine rebuilt will be great TH-cam content, especially if Iain Tyrrell is involved. Can’t wait!
Thank buddy.. but I’ve been told head gaskets are actually quite strong on these engines!!
Good to watch lovely to see Iain Tyrrell
I'm impressed he rebuilt those carbs, thats tough.
Good man Jack. I’d check the oil for signs of moisture. Check the valve timing first, then set up the ignition timing and then look at a vacuum or gasket leak around the carbs.
Float bowls? Timing...there's a look to check. Water - what's on the dip stick? Condensation is always a problem on older engines and short-ish journeys. The other quick check is an MOT exhaust gas analyser, could save a lot of fiddling. As far as fuel is concerned Shell V-Power 99RON is great and all I would be into a car like that. Good luck, we're all routing for that car!
Dip stick seems fine.. oil looks ok 👍
An inability to lower the idle speed can be an indication of an air leak or too much air getting into the induction system. Check the carb mounts. Spray some WD40 around the carbs and see if the engine ramps up. If it does then you have a bad carb to manifold seal.
Slow down Jack. You are in panic mode and your guesses are all over the map. Start with the idle issue - all you did was mess with the carbs so it's almost guaranteed that whatever is causing it involves that. As for the ignition timing - have you got a timing light? Start with that. Regarding the sludge in the breather you probably need to pull the cam covers off which you will want to do anyway to check your valve timing. Since Ian had mentioned it you would have been wise to have done that while the carbs were off since it would have been a lot easier but that's all water under the bridge now. Just adopt the attitude that you love tinkering with your Ferrari and the experience will be much more enjoyable. As Ian said, you're going to love it once you've sorted out all of the deferred maintenance issues.