The Common Problem that Affects Many Ferrari 308's - Can it be Fixed?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- My Ferrari 308, the InfluEnzo, refuses to do right turns, the engine bogs down. 308's are known to suffer from this but I can't accept it. So today I try various 'ingenious' tests to try and resolve the problem. This one is going to be tough!
![[Live] ศึกมหึมันส์มวยไทยสังเวียนเดือด เวทีมวยชั่วคราวสวนสยาม | จันทร์ 30 กันยายน 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pM1k6f7JXUc/mqdefault.jpg)
Check your ground wires. When you turn the steering wheel a bit it may be moving a bad connection. That would also explain a change in voltage and fuel pressure. Check the ignition switch connnectons too; turning the steering wheel may move some lose wires in that connection at the steering column which, in turn, is connected to the ignition switch and cause momentary low voltage going through the whole car.
I fully agree i wanted to say the same thing.
👆What he said 👍
Yup! Turning the wheel could be something to test.
Most fuel issues are electrical
Yes, extending the steering wheel 2 inches may have put some wires in tension.
Having spent months diagnosing an electrical issue with my project car, I appreciate your steadfastness on this project. It’s never as satisfying as finding the problem, but eliminating potential issues is great progress. I’m curious as to why you do all these tests on the road. You may want to consider finding a large parking lot and circling in each direction, looking for differences in measured parameters. That would give you a very consistent data set to evaluate.
Bad voltage regulator on the alternator gives you the erratic engine performance & the alternator earth needs replacing as your friend said it wasn’t ‘always’ charging and it should.
If going to all that trouble I'd have used the cabin GoPro camera on the fuel pressure gauge, and another on the multi-meter, and then synchronised the cameras and reviewed simultaneously on the video timeline. Standard filmmaking practice.
Get the front wheels of the ground and turn the wheel whilst its stationary and running.
👍
Good idea that was thinking similar
I posted this on the last one but don’t think he noticed, or thought it was a rubbish idea 😂
👍 and easily done, good thinking!
Easy enough to test. I know this is a British comment because no American uses "whilst" in their "english".
Get rid of the multi meter and source your self an oscilloscope that way u can see so much more such a glitches on the coil. The multi meter averages so u see what u think is a fixed voltage. U can look at each spark plug and see if they are firing correct and by looking at the electrical signal u can see curling issue hidie and franny did a great video on it with the Porsche
Have you looked at the wiring around the steering area. Could it be something with the wiring in that area.as you turn the wheel uj rubs wiring causing short or connection brake?
The common problem that affects many 308s is that they have their owners constantly pulling their hair out, lol!
🤣🤣🤣 I knew a guy years ago, an auto parts wholesaler, who's dream car was a 308. He had it fixed and maintained at my own mechanic and long time friend Norm's garage. And a top notch mechanic, an expert in carbs and injection. Both were pulling their hair. Every time, Norm saw the guy coming in, he went " Oh god, not him again !" The guy sold the damn thing "as is, no guarantee" after 2 1/2 years.
Don't get me wrong, I'm in love with that car, a so iconic shape. But I could'nt afford a 150$C titanium bolt holding the alternator !
Fuel pressure wouldn't cause that issue as the carbs have enough fuel in them to allow for slight variation in supply.
I agree, this is not a fuel issue. It's electrical.
Right on, Simon!
I came across a similar issue in the past, it was a cracked rubber fuel line. Upon turns it was allowing air to enter the system causing the engine to bog down intermittently. Best of luck with the diagnosis 👍
I mentioned last time he's using the screw together fuel filters which are notorious for allowing air into the system, I run 2 1970 BMW 2002's 1 on 45 webers & 1 on 45 Dellortos , I use the plastic molded filters with zero issues . Other 2002 owners have had this issue with the glass filters ( they are behind the engine on a BMW so very susceptible to vacuum leaks. This Ferrari has them on the flow & return lines doubling the problem in my opinion.
@@hawaiisteve932 unliked your comment several times so I could relike it.
@@tariqkhan185 Cheers Tariq .
I'm convinced it is this as well in the line or the filter
@@hawaiisteve932 I’ve had similar issues in the past on a 308GT4 where the issue was an air lock in the fuel line that built up caused an issue then disappeared until next time! The fuel pump was letting in air as it had not been tightened using a torque wrench & a tiny distortion let in air. A new fuel pump properly installed and new fuel lines plus always use a high octane fuel seemed to help. The fuel filter I used was plastic kept away from heat sources.
A large part of that car’s problems, was a previous lack of use in it’s life averaging less than a thousand miles per year over 19 years. It had defective suspension, and electric connectors, needed a top of engine rebuild and when bought the perfect tyres were 19 years old. So no more low mileage Ferrari’s for me!
My present Mondial 3.2 QV has done 70,500 & drives beautifully with a purring engine!
You’re losing spark because it’s instantaneous
Put a modern ignition system on it like the car wizard @carwizard
Note to self: don't buy an old Ferrari
They're not all like that.
Hey, so the story goes back to the Dino, the carbs used are not good for East west engines. Lancia sorted the issue with the Stratos, a lot of Dino owners change the carbs to the Stratos IDF webbers, you can buy a kit. It improves engine performance dramatically. I believe it's the same issue with the 308.
Aren’t the carbs in a V6 Dino mounted north south in the car though (so effectively each carb feeds one cylinder from each bank)? DCNFs are mounted east west on the V8 so each carb feeds 2 cylinders on the same bank).
If the car left the factory with this carb design and didnt have this issue then its not likely to be the cause...
My father owned a 308GTB and never had this issue. I worked on a few Dinos and never saw this issue in the 80s. Age onset problem, 99/100 times a worn or broken wire in the loom, in this case, I would look at the wires near the steering column.
Keep going Jack! You will get the Influenzo sorted I’m sure you will buddy! ………. Have you considered maybe performing an Exorcism on the Influenzo!?😂😉👍
I'd rather have wanted to check the voltage to the coils with an osciloscope, the multimeter is going to put some degree of dampening on the signal wich an osciloscope won't.
And if it was a quick drop the voltmeter might miss the event. Definitely a job for an oscilloscope
I totally agree. The tool is a great investment and get a dual channel. Much more easy to diagnose electrical problems. You would be able to monitor each cylinder while running and easy to compare data.
@@XiraArien Indeed, you can allso check on the health of the regulator as someone have pointed out in the comments, it'll give you a definite answer. There are cheap ones that can be run from a laptop or even your phone.
After to watching the video, I came down to the comments to post exactly this, glad to see someone beat me to it!
Jack. I've been following you since day 1 and you've done brilliant job getting this far and I'm sure that many of us have enjoyed your tribulations and sympathised with the challenges you've come up against. Enjoy the rest of the summer and tackle the glitches in the winter. You've earned it! Thanks for taking the time to share it with us all
Jack, try driving a 1980 Ferrari 308 with fuel injection, no bog around right turns, same ignition system. The right hand bog is a well documented problem caused by the IDF carbs not being suited to a transverse engine. Jack the car up again on the right side again as far as you can without rolling over, then take the top of the right carb off and look at the fuel level above the main jet. Or fish a bore scope through the carb vent to look a level while driving.
The bogging down when "weaving" on the road cant be down to fuel, if the float bowls are full there just isn't enough time to lose fuel. Got to be an electrical issue IMHO
Yes, I too was thinking the same. There won't be enough 'g's to cause fuel starvation at these low speeds.
@@thomasfrank280 Magneti Marelli wiring of the time being what they were, I'd chase a scuffed wire somewhere, "wiggling" under G forces when cornering. I had a similar intermitten problem on a Datsun 510 decades ago. A loose connector and wire under the dash. Madening. 👹
Sparking at a furniture store one time, I had a delivery driver come to me asking about an intermittent fault on the indicators, I had the notion to thump the plastic cover behind the steering, which caused the indicator to stop working, found the fault to be a spade connector on the wiring loom side was loose.. a simple fiddle with a nose clip pliers fixed it..
This was after the fault was looked at a main dealer, where the indicator stalk was replaced to no avail
Hose cracked somewhere that's introducing an air leak under lateral G force? Lambda sensor will help you track that down but be prepared to weld in bungs on both headers. Quite possible you have a problem on only one bank of cylinders.
@@LesSharp the previous video on this problem showed it happening at really low speeds, driving around his little street at about 15mph. Which made me think it can't be g-force
Sounds like your ferrari has a fuel starvation problem . Are there baffles in your tanks ?
That popping when it chimes back in tells me it's most likely ignition related, spark stops but fuel doesn't so your exhaust gets filled with fuel vapor that ignites when the ignition comes back on line. Back in the day (before electronics) we used to drive aong, cut ignition then turn it back on to scare the crap out of pedestrians with a big pop.
I had a very similar problem on mine: have you checked the wiring WITHIN the distributor? The insulation gets brittle, cracks and arcs. Looks fine to the eye but as you touch it the cracks open up and fall apart.
Although you didn't fix it, it is still great to watch you attempt to eliminate different possibilities. I have confidence that you will get to the bottom of it.
plot spoiler.. boo!
@@Gruxxan Haha, you always need to avoid the comments until you have watched the video ;)
@@HomeBuiltByJeff but i cant help scrolling down the comments haha😂
He doesn't know what he's doing .It will carch up to him sooner or later.I think it wiill carch fire and then he'lblame it on it being Italian cars fault
I'm going to say it's steering wheel related, not sure how but it's causing an electrical issue when you turn right.
My E-type Jaguar did the same thing. On left hand turns it would bog down.
The problem was the floats in the carbs they filled with gas.
I would concentrate on your carbs.
Unless you've run the fuel low I'd say it has to be steering column wiring related since it seems to have occurred after the coupling was replaced.
(Warranty job) lol
Good luck mate.
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned
from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the
Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by
reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated
central gas station per city or county. Now they even want to slow down
all the gas pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From
2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as
exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox
oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no
investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even
created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime. "Bundesabgasbespaßungsverbot" in German. :-((((
I wish you could get the Influenzo sorted Jack for your peace of mind......then I don't because we love your 308 content.
PS Needle valves in carbs not seating on cornering
Hi Jack. Try checking for voltage drop at the pump. Its best to use an oscilloscope which can record a continuous wave form. A short duration cutout probably wouldn't be caught with a volt meter due to its frequency response. For that reason its probably worth repeating the coil voltage test. One last thought......11.57 v at the coil seems a little low. The battery voltage is usually over 12 but less than 13.5 v. ....Poor earth somewhere perhaps ??? Best of luck!
ok, so next...check out the HT leads, have you got a lead moving around, perhaps touching the block when corning....causing arcing?
only other thing I can think of is dirt in carbs, had this on my twin weber IDF's.....
This certainly isn’t fuel related, but electrical. Maybe a solder gone brittle somewhere. Are there any wiring in the steering wheel, alarm/immobilizer etc that can cut in and make the engine bog down when rotational forces are exerted? I once took out my ECU board on the 964 and baked it in the oven to reconnect any smoldering solders when hunting for bogging issues. Turned out to be the MAF.
I’m amazed by your persistence Jack!
Haven't you jacked up the wrong side of the car? In right hand cornering, fuel, oil, wires etc. would move towards the drivers side. You jacked up the drivers side, causing things to move towards the passenger side...
IMHO the most likely problem is electrical. (maybe a grounding issue).
The alternator should be outputting 14v and even with the load of the coils should be well above 12v - closer to 13v or more. I would check ground straps ( just clean everyone regardless), earthing points for the wiring loom as well.. Also put the multimeter in series with the battery to see current draw while running (and also going round right hand turns). If the alternator is working you should be able to disconnect the battery positive and the car should still run as the alternator (if working propertly) will output enough current. There is a scenario where you have a short happening when g-forces of right hand cornering move the loom AND the alternator is not outputting enough current/voltage. The fact that you can pretty much making it happen near instant the moment the steering is turned I would also inspect all connectors around the steering column even cables near the column joints. Hope that give some ideas for next checks.
Have enjoyed the videos....but makes me so happy I have a reliable old air cool 911. Hope you get everything sorted out!!!
Please check wire between contact breaker in distributor and ignition coil ( the low voltage wire), I have once broken wire inside isolation that was looking fine, everytime when engine shift in the bay to one side it was pulling and interrupting, this will also explain why from time to time you have backfires because when it get back in contact it will make spark.
Also, my 84 QV has 2 distributors and one of the seals was leaking oil. When the oil sloshed in a corner the car would bog down.
The distributor is mounted horizontally, do it have a centrifugal rev limiter, is there any lateral play in the shaft? It could be moving into the distributor on right hand corners. The empty car park idea mentioned in the comments sounds good but remember your not dry sumped so how good are the baffles. Speaking of which, could there be an oil surge, check for blue smoke when cornering.
Definitely the Coriolis effect. This fault could only happen in the Northern Hemisphere, the combustion swirl in the left side of both bank is such that the air/fuel mixture will miss the spark plugs when the car is turning in a clockwise direction. Easily proven by taking the car to Australia and watching the fault swap sides.
Yes, but in Australia, the car being upside down, the carbs would get empty fairly quickly.
😜
😅😂
turn those coils 90 degrees so they sit vertically - fixed my car years ago [oil surge inside of coil causing short, causing misfire]
Can you swap the fuel feeds to each bank. See if the fault swaps to the other bank.
I’d second the steering column/ ignition switch (heavy keys pulling on the ignition ) and also your earth straps on the engine (stretched and breaking down beneath insulation). Definitely electrical because of low speed and low lateral g’s.
Jack, for sure you know the way the distributors work in those cars im order to change the timing depending of the rpms , and i recon the issue is in one of them, they have two bronze weights inside that uses centrifugal force in order to change the timing, they have some bushes that wear and can happen when you turn right the centrifugal force of the cornering pushes the me mechanism out inside the distributor causing a misfire or going out of timing. Not saying that's the issue but due to the fact they sit sideways instead of in a up position can actually cause those issue, can be even the points that stop working. Its just a suggestion.
Yep, folk forget about bob weights.
I had exactly the same symptoms on my race car two years ago. It took me few races and lots of tests on electrical and fuel systems to finally find out the cause.
To make it short:
First, it is important to check the float height as a preliminary step, but the best is to check the fuel level that is really in the carb’s bowl, as the float can react differently (difference of weight, but also some can be porous and let the fuel goes inside hence the weight will be different and then the level will also be different).
Secondly, I know you have already checked the float's height, but what is important too is to be sure that the position of the float is 100% horizontal. If it is not the case, and despite the fact that the height “seems” to be correct, there could be enough fuel in the right corners (for example) and not enough fuel in the left corners. To check this, I made a tool with a “U” shape out a piece of metal (the height of the “U” corresponds to the float’s height you should have) and I put it onto the float when I check the float's height. This way, you check the float’s height and whether the float is 100% horizontal, both at the same time.
Hope this will be clear enough (I’m not English) and that will be helpful.
Fixed!. th-cam.com/video/gLMghP_RDCw/w-d-xo.html
Leaking Vaccuum lines can cause these kind of undiagnosable problems. Have you checked all your vaccuum lines? What kind of vaccuum system does the 308 even have???
some of the insulatingoil may have leaked from one of the coils ,so it flows inside causing a shortwhen turning mainly/especially if if the coils are mountedhorizontally,
I just time traveled. Its the coil. just put the old coil in and you will be fine.
This is not a fuel problem as it is instant when you turn right only. It is a wiring problem.
Just a thought - there is a difference between cornering and jacking up, which is that when you accelerate cornering the engine is under load, whereas when you open throttle jacked up the engine is off-load so it'll spin up much more freely on a lot less fuel. You'd need a jacked-up rolling road* to compare apples with apples on that one!
*NOT recommended unless you're sponsored by a company that makes the mother, father and entire extended family of all ratchet straps! Haha!
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Yes tilting is emulating sloshing the fuel from side to side but isn’t the same as applying a sideways force irrespective of whether the engine is under load or not as well so wouldn’t be a conclusive static test for other possible causes of the issue?
Wow! Before the Ferrari you had 20k subscribers, now more than double that, well deserved for sure!
Why not take it on a track day and really throw it around some corners to exacerbate the problem - that should give you more frustration, hopefully a clearer picture and some more painful pleasure for us!
IMO it sounds like an earthing or wiring chaffing problem somewhere in that spaghetti of a loom.
Thanks Chap, yes the Ferrari has really helped grow the channel.. on the other hand I can’t just rely on that to get views. Hoping people also enjoy the other stuff!! Thanks for watching!
Mate, don't forget what Mr Tyrell taught you. Listen to your carbs... it's a fuel issue.
I bet your neighbours love you revving the Granny out of that car 😂😂
I think about that every time.
It’s the journey that’s interesting Jack, not reaching the final destination. Fabulous videos!!
Agree 👍
I love the song, Don't Stop Believing... this is painful
Bad earth...bad connection somewhere. Ps My GTSi, a model that everyone bags on, doesn't have this issue.
Just what I was thinking
Lubricate the advance weights and check the springs
Isn't the original phrasing, "Everything BAR the kitchen sink!"??
That makes FAR more sense too!!
Take it back to Iain Tyrrell would be a great video also.
Brave experiment, electricity, open fueld carbs and a fuel pressure tester, did you take a fire extinguisher with you ? As always a really enjoyable video ☺️👍keep up the great content 😊
To be honest, if it did go up in flames, that would solve his problem.
Next step, call the Car Wizard 🧙♀️
You know, due to the unique nature of this engine it would be fairly easy to do two quick test runs just running on one bank at a time and see if there were any difference between the two. If there were then you'd have at least narrowed it down to either the 1-4 or 5-8 side.
Don’t apologise, it’s brilliant watching you trying to track down the problem,. Already looking forward to the next instalment. Cheers
loose or corroded ground somewhere? typical for italians...
Fabulous problem solving even though you didn’t get to the bottom of it. The mystery is fascinating me. Can’t wait for the next instalment. Btw I bet your neighbours love you!😂😂
This really sounds inertial, and electrical. Almost like a wire moving during a turn and grounding out on something. You checked power to the coil, so how is the voltage coming from it? Also, is there any play/movement in the distributor, coil, wires, ground wire, etc? Check each spark plug wire voltage with a clamp meter? Doubt it's a bad battery but if curious, just turn it 180dg to see if problem occurs on left turns. The only other thing that I can think could be the vacuum system and reservoir, and if there is a tube or fitting leak that opens up when you turn. Does it cut out at higher or lower rpms? My Wrangler used to cut out on me until I replaced the vacuum lines. Just for kicks, do you have a heavy key ring? I hope you find the problem, I love that car!!!
its a connector pulling and getting weak connection during slight right turn of the steering wheel. upon return of the wheel, the strain is reduced and the connection is restored.
Electrical issue in the steering column….
"Everything but the kitchen sink!"
"Nah, mate, the sink, too."
This reminds me of watching TWIN PEAKS many years ago. Every episode you think you've worked out who the murderer is, until the last few minutes when all your theories get proved wrong haha
maybe fitting a pontiac fiero engine would resolve the problems :-)
Jack, the expression is "I'm going to throw everything at it except the kitchen sink"......
Can you feed the carbs with a temp fuel tank to eliminate any petrol tank issues. You could temp plumb it into the pump ? Use a petrol can as a tank to keep it safe (ish). Sounds a bit daft but you are short on options. !
Bad voltage regulator on your alternator will give you erratic engine performance. Check the alternators earth too and the gearbox earth strap.
First time I went to the US, I initially struggled to do left hand turns while being on the wrong side of the road and the car. You’ll be surprised how far you could get just making left turns for the rest of your life. Cant deny its an option.
Ha!!! 😄😄😄😁😁😄
@@Number27 :-)
Busy time for you. All work and no play makes Jack a bit tired but his audience very happy.
So glad you’re still
Enjoying these Andrew!!
Have you thought of doing an Edd China and swapping the Influenzo for a kitchen sink on wheels ?
REDO with an oscilloscope................................. a niche car, for niche mechnics, with fishermans patience & owner must have pretend elon musk bank balance !
The Common Problem that Affects Many Ferrari 308's? The owner who is not very mechanically or electronically savvy. Running problems are almost always ELECTRICAL. If this latest running problem only appears during right hand turns at some speed (i.e. there's some lateral acceleration occuring) then it very well could be some electrical connection, ground, etc. Of course our boy Jack will continue to look into his favorite area - carbs and fuel. Personally, I'm still waiting for Jack to take a deep dive into the ignition system, most notably the distributor (the distributor assembly - NOT just the cap and leads!!!) I won't hold my breath waiting for such analysis.
FWIW. Throw the DMM away and replace it with a simple 12v bulb. 2-5w should do. The DMM has a latency which in your scenario would mask any intermittent fault. Where a bulb would immediately go either dim or off. Measure the system voltage at the battery first. Followed by both sides of every fuse. You ought to see slightly less at the fuse box. Maybe 0.5v or so. Ideally 13.8 -14.2 at the battery after a 15min run measured at say 2-3000rpm. Good luck. Bw Mike
Things to try (I don't think it is fuelling as the residual fuel in the carbs wouldn't show an issue like that if the pressure was dropping so briefly/ intermittantly...maybe??)-
Steering column switches (indicators specifically)
Try a new battery - if it's lead-acid there could be a chance of internal problems, general battery movement, or connector problems
Electrical Connector blocks (all) - The blades and seats can become oxidised or loose, causing such a subtle problem that it wouldn't be noticable to the eye. A proper cleaning/adjusting/continuity check could help.
Good Luck. :)
Years ago Alan Moffat driving a Mazda RX7 at Bathurst Australia had a problem with cornering, i think they went with dual fuel pumps. Not sure if that applies to you as the fuel pressure is constant. If all fails buy some new pyjama bottoms and a top and try that . Regards Chris Perth WA
That does not sound like ANY 308 GTB I've driven :)
The answer, of course, is Iain Tyrell.
Go back again, cap in hand, and beg him to take your case. "It's the only way to be sure"
aircraft of the 1920s and 1930s had a float-type carburetor. They are adequate for civil aircraft which normally fly upright, but present a problem for aircraft which fly upside-down or are subject to a negative g-force, especially military fighters and aerobatic aircraft. A float carburetor uses the venturi effect to supply fuel into the engine intake; this depends upon a constant level of fuel in the float bowl to maintain the desired fuel/air mixture. The float operates a valve which keeps the fuel level in the carburetor consistent despite varying demands by means of a linked float valve. As the fuel level increases, the valve closes slowing or stopping the flow into the bowl. However, since the float depends on gravity to function, it is ineffective when the aircraft is inverted. During inversion, fuel is delivered to the float bowl as fast as the fuel pump is capable resulting in an extremely rich mixture stopping the engine almost instantly.
The problem was keenly felt by the RAF during the first years of World War II, because the Rolls-Royce Merlin engines fitted to Hurricanes and Spitfires suffered from the problem, unlike the direct fuel injection engines of their German counterparts. It was largely solved by installing a flow-restricting washer that allowed just enough fuel into the carburetor for the engine to develop maximum power (the R.A.E. restrictor was known as "Miss Shilling's orifice"). However, it was only a stopgap solution.
The pressure carburetor solved the problem. It operates on pressure alone, meaning that gravity no longer has any effect. For that reason, the pressure carburetor operates reliably when the plane is in any flight attitude. The fact that a pressure carburetor operates on the principle of fuel under positive pressure makes it a form of fuel injection.
Construction
Really no reason to feel sorry... I know this type of error, you just cannot find out. Had this once in a 911 which always popped Airbag warning... suspected the harness tested this and that, suspected the cockpit even swapped that one out and did much more, still could not find it. This definitely IS good content... life is not a straight line obviously! Go on, I am pretty sure you WILL find it finally... LIKE!
The old inertia/gravity cut 🤣, vehicle's ignition /engine wiring loom /real bitch to find. GOOD LUCK, first place I'd look is at the back of the ignition key top of loom see if you can physically see any missing insulation, tight prolonged turn is shorting an wire.And check fuel pump /wires , of course these are the lucky solutions not some wire hidden deep inside the loom 🤣🇬🇧, you'll get there mate, check steering column /any part of steering that is close or comes into contact with loom
Surely throwing the kitchen sink at it would involve swapping to a modern fuel injection system? There's a reason Ferrari stopped using carbs. An Electromotive swap would get you loads more viewers and probably make the car run properly.
Nahh, it will do les power and take the car personality, the carbs 308 are so much cool to drive
I would have taken a wire straight from the battery to the postive connection on the coils. So you bypass the ignition switch. Then you know the coils get stable feed of current. I suspect something in the steering column can play games with you. I do not think it is a carb issue. Then it would probably pop and bang a lot when power comes on again. To ba absolute sure it is not a carb issue. Borrow some carburators from your friend, that you know works. Best of luck! You are a very positive and patient man!
Hi Jack. Have you got enough fuel in the tanks? I had a GT4 for 4 years and it had twin tanks linked with a balance pipe. (not sure if yours is the same) When the fuel level was low it bogged down even though the level was well above the fuel pump. Also I fitted a Facet pump rather than the original Ferrari one. The accuracy of the fuel gauge can be misleading too. Like yourself I thought the problem was far more complex and completely rebuilt the carbs and replaced all fuel lines. Good luck. Hope this helps. Regards, Rick.
Flog the carbs, dizzy, coils etc, find a sponsor buy a megasquirt efi, DIY itbs and churn 6 videos out of the conversion. Should cover costs!?
K swap....
3.5 psi doesn't seem like much yo me.... and, as your mate said, under 12v when running indicates a weak alternator......
My money is something amiss with two of the carbs.....
Or maybe, the coil needs mounting upright, or upside down, not on its side....??
Ferrari owners ,with few exceptions,
have a common problem, their cars sit most of the time, gathering dust.
I had a friend who owned a 308 and a 348.
The 308 sat so long the plates were years expired.
Plus the Italians are nearly as wacky as the Brits when it came to wire chafing issues.
One of our sons wants to buy a 308.
I told him to buy a wrecked one, throw the engine and drive train away and put an LS3 in it.
Then he can actually drive it to work.
A mystery alright. Damn fustrating for you. Wish I could suggest something. Will keep watching and good on you from Kiwiland.
Ok maybe you didn’t fix it, but you’ve eliminated a few options.
All too often people just plug a computer into a car these days and diagnose, I love the of school way of bit by bit working your way through the possible suspects until you strike gold.
Keep up the good work Jack, as ever an enjoyable video to watch
Careful Jack, with all those gadgets hooked up to the engine, when you hit 88mph you might vanish into the past.
Then he could wring Enzo's neck for all the widespread trouble he caused over the years.
You mean back to the future!
Exactly :D
Very creative, like the next step idea. They don’t teach this stuff in High School Auto Mechanics 🤣. It was 1975 11th grade, we had to get an engine on a stand to start. I for some reason took a few 12g insulated wires and touched the battery to coil in some odd fashion and essentially sent enough current through the wires to kill a horse. Big cloud of smoke, burn marks across all my fingers holding the wires and insulation of wires vaporized in seconds. I have much respect for auto electrical systems now. 🥴😳👍
Carb float Level/Installation. Needle sticking. Float sticking. Bent float arm. It looks like there is way to little fuel in the float bowl in your other video. On every carb I have ever worked on, fuel should be up around the halfway point with the floats in place give or take. Pull the airhorns off of all 4 carbs and compare the level of fuel in the float bowls. The one with the least amount of fuel is your problem. How much did the fuel pressure drop? If possible, run it with a temporary fuel tank. See if it makes a difference. Great videos by the way!
My Porsche 914/6 (Webber carbs) did exactly this. Took ages to fix and turned out to be float level. I got myself a float level vial/gauge to set the levels.
If you think it's only one bank, then have you checked the distributors? From watching Ratarossa, it looked like there were 2 distributors on the fuel injected cars - is it the same with the carb cars? Maybe cornering is causing movement within the dizzy?
The influenzo? hahahaha! Mya ferrari, she no a work. LOL! Rich mans car, rich man sends car to rich mans mechanic, any problem is handled there. Nice car, fave of all time. But its a weekend toy and not a daily driver. Magnum had to fix his car all the time..
If 308's are known to suffer from this, it should be known what causes it, no? If it is unknown, you are providing a great service to the 308 community in figuring it out. *thumbs up*
Wild guess, but does this Thing have an inertia fuel Pump Cut Off Switch? Supposed to shut down the fuel Pump in Case of a Crash. If yes, that might bei the culprit.
00:32- Here in the States, I've been hearing the expression to "throw the kitchen sink" at some problem for decades. I didn't realize it was also spoken in the UK! Cheers from California!