i thought i missed something when i was put my steering rack on...... there was a little bit of play! after watching your how to video and seeing that a little play is normal i can finally sleep tonight hahahah. thx for the GREAT video🤟
Great install vid and tips Dennis!👌 Good to clear up the importance or red thread lock and flush fit on the steering link ends! Doing some awesome things for M2C with these great how to vids man! Love my steering racks! Holding up killer!! HUGE props to Mitch and the guys once again!😎🚀💪🤘🤘
Thanks Eric, Yeah I tried Blue and it didn't hold, would rather red and deal with the issues "if" it ever breaks 😎😜😂(M2C💪) because blue loosening up and having to go back in there again and again would be annoying. I have Bashed the heck out of it since with Red and NO issues. And if it starts loosening with blue the first thing that would happen if that bolt would sheer like mine did. I enjoy doing these videos AND bashing, glad I can help the community in those ways. Appreciate your support brother Eric See ya round
Hi, I bought the latest G2 version for my Kraton 8S BLX and have noticed the screws that go through the steering rack through to the ball end protrudes slightly. This has resulted in fouling on the pivot point of the "Driver's side arm". I've reverted to the factory part and these screws are fine for that application.
Bro I like the way you do and say stuff, Love the way you speak , straight to it , none droning and very interesting 😏 fantastic pieces of Kit from Mitch 👍 its a shame Arrma even though there tough why can't the Do what Mitch does 🤔 how your not Bigger Bro 🤔 really enjoyed this Video so Much, BAMMMM PEACE OUT BRO 🤘🥰😎🇬🇧🇺🇲🤘
That's SUPER kind of you to say all that brother. Means a lot! I just try to be informative, quick and to the point so I don't waste people's time. Try to minimize the "waffle". If Arrma made there stuff this tough out the box with all these M2C Upgrades they would have to charge you $1500, so it makes sence the level of toughness you get out the box, people will always want to upgrade their rigs either because they are learning and wrecking hard, or they are SENDING IT and if your a little off or wreck the impact can be damaging. Growing day by day and I'm greatful for all the views, re-sharing on other platforms/linking of my videos... People have done some cool stuff to bring awareness. Love my Subs and the community.... I'm really glad you enjoyed this and my other bashing content 👊 See ya round
Yeah buddy, the stock being 1 piece, the whole trucks bounces on that and I screws it, at least with 6s it was 2 pieces, I'm sure the Hot Racing one is solid too, I just like the M2C solution with the tool so there is no risk of cross threading it. Thanks for your time and Support/Sub😉 brother
I sure am using stock nut and bolt on the servo horn side. On the Ackerman side it's a stock bolt blue Loctite into the M2C Metal steering rack. No issues with either side. Thanks for the question and for your time brother.... Hope your enjoying the channel See ya round bud
Why have the rack side threaded if the ball joint is threaded? It just seems like a good way to have a loose connection, as the requirement for red locktite implies.
My thought.... Though I didn't design it of course, is less threads and it backs out easier. It's a heavy vibration spot so easy for the screw to back out. I snapped 1 screw there because it started backing out, then used red loctite and it hasn't come out in over a year. Hope your enjoying the channel brother, see ya round
@@3SonsRC But by threading both, it doesn't allow the threads to act as they are designed. If both sides are threaded the screw won't pull the two components together and create tension on the screw, which is how components stick together without glue. Unless I am missing something, it seems that drilling out the threads on either side would be a much better design. Thanks for the reply. Keep up the good work!
@@jeffgrzankowski6393 yeah I don't know bro all I can say is it absolutely works the way it is you just got to make sure that the bolt is flush up against the steering rack when you thread it through the front side so that way it threads through both of them and there's no Gap that's the only thing you have to be careful of. Also I know that these parts were tested quite a bit so maybe they had issues with it not being threaded and it came loose? Super appreciate the kind support brother
@@jeffgrzankowski6393I had the same thought, however, if you have issues keeping the ball joint flush against the steering rack, you can tighten the ball joint to pull it up against the steering rack even harder (fyi you can use an 11mm socket on it). IMO that makes a for a much better connection between the two, and eliminates the issue that you point out where the screw cannot pull the two parts together.
Really most of the time use Blue Loctite wherever metal screws go into metal parts or mounts. But red I like to used for Grub screws on the pinion, maybe the Grub on the hubs, but blue is fine there. If blue will hold it stay blue, because red needs heat to break loose and if it's close to a plastic part you can burn it, or you can use soldier iron but I always use flame from small torch. There might be a few other places I use red, just depends on if Blue does not hold it well enough. Hope your enjoying the channel brother, see ya round
Already is bud, I posted the text durring the video, sorry if I didn't make it clearer. Recorded the video over a month ago before it was released. Check the website and link in the discription. Appreciate your time brother
I just mine on my 8s and it wasn't as hard as I thought.I purchased the steering rack off amazon for 40 bucks. Trimmed it to fit and went to my hardware store bought some aluminum brazing rod filled in the holes on the arm that needs to be shorter then trim to fit.not that hard
What's up brother. Little confused about what your talking about. The M2C rack is not available on Amazon. "filled in the holes in the arm that needed to be shorter"?? Granted this is an older video before the new Hobbywing motors came out and the v2 steering rack by M2C that is compatible. 🤔🤔
I bought the bell crank and top plate off amazon for 50 bucks.all aluminum.i then took from the hole where the steering arm connects out to the drivers side pivot arm.i ground roughly 0 to 1/8 inch of material off.the drivers side pivot arm (not sure if that's what it's called sorry) I went to my local hardware store and bought aluminum brazing rod (2 stick about 5 bucks) I filled in the hole where the rack bolts on and took my time grinding to fit. I did use the factory plastic part as kind of a template. plastic is a bit easier to work with.
@@silo1082 nice, sounds like this might work well. Most dudes are not this handy that's why M2C is around. I'm sure that aluminum though not M2C quality should be good enough in that particular area. Enjoy brother. Hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
Yep definitely not m2c quality.from what iv seen of m2c parts (very impressive). I was going to buy the m2c steering rack but I had already purchased these parts and as iv been an aluminum welder for over 20 years I couldn't pass up the challenge of trying to make my own parts.but I love your channel and I will keep on watching.
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
i thought i missed something when i was put my steering rack on...... there was a little bit of play! after watching your how to video and seeing that a little play is normal i can finally sleep tonight hahahah. thx for the GREAT video🤟
That's awesome brother. Glad to help. I have definitely gotten that question before
Enjoy the channel
Great install vid and tips Dennis!👌 Good to clear up the importance or red thread lock and flush fit on the steering link ends! Doing some awesome things for M2C with these great how to vids man! Love my steering racks! Holding up killer!! HUGE props to Mitch and the guys once again!😎🚀💪🤘🤘
Thanks Eric,
Yeah I tried Blue and it didn't hold, would rather red and deal with the issues "if" it ever breaks 😎😜😂(M2C💪) because blue loosening up and having to go back in there again and again would be annoying. I have Bashed the heck out of it since with Red and NO issues. And if it starts loosening with blue the first thing that would happen if that bolt would sheer like mine did.
I enjoy doing these videos AND bashing, glad I can help the community in those ways.
Appreciate your support brother Eric
See ya round
You just keep dropping great videos Dennis. Love em. Thanks for taking the time to help us out
Thanks for your time brother and kind words, was my pleasure making them
Hi, I bought the latest G2 version for my Kraton 8S BLX and have noticed the screws that go through the steering rack through to the ball end protrudes slightly. This has resulted in fouling on the pivot point of the "Driver's side arm". I've reverted to the factory part and these screws are fine for that application.
Sorry brother I wouldn't know, I don't have that motor or different steering rack. I would reach out in the FB groups
cool install and information
Thanks buddy I appreciate that friend
Glad you Enjoyed and found helpful
Thanks for your time
@@3SonsRC ✌👍👊
Bro I like the way you do and say stuff, Love the way you speak , straight to it , none droning and very interesting 😏 fantastic pieces of Kit from Mitch 👍 its a shame Arrma even though there tough why can't the Do what Mitch does 🤔 how your not Bigger Bro 🤔 really enjoyed this Video so Much, BAMMMM PEACE OUT BRO 🤘🥰😎🇬🇧🇺🇲🤘
That's SUPER kind of you to say all that brother. Means a lot! I just try to be informative, quick and to the point so I don't waste people's time. Try to minimize the "waffle". If Arrma made there stuff this tough out the box with all these M2C Upgrades they would have to charge you $1500, so it makes sence the level of toughness you get out the box, people will always want to upgrade their rigs either because they are learning and wrecking hard, or they are SENDING IT and if your a little off or wreck the impact can be damaging.
Growing day by day and I'm greatful for all the views, re-sharing on other platforms/linking of my videos... People have done some cool stuff to bring awareness. Love my Subs and the community.... I'm really glad you enjoyed this and my other bashing content 👊
See ya round
Lots of info👍
Haha, yeah I try to cram it in there. Glad to help brother.... Thanks for your time 👊
Install the hot racing front hub caps...stock pops out...no problems with mine
Yeah buddy, the stock being 1 piece, the whole trucks bounces on that and I screws it, at least with 6s it was 2 pieces, I'm sure the Hot Racing one is solid too, I just like the M2C solution with the tool so there is no risk of cross threading it.
Thanks for your time and Support/Sub😉 brother
Using the stock nut and bolt to connect it to the servo arm ?
I sure am using stock nut and bolt on the servo horn side. On the Ackerman side it's a stock bolt blue Loctite into the M2C Metal steering rack. No issues with either side.
Thanks for the question and for your time brother.... Hope your enjoying the channel
See ya round bud
@@3SonsRC thanks for the reply man appreciate it 👍
I got mine today no bolts came with it what bolts do I use to put the arms on the bars
Use the stock ones and Washers I point out in the video.
Good luck my friend.
Why have the rack side threaded if the ball joint is threaded? It just seems like a good way to have a loose connection, as the requirement for red locktite implies.
My thought.... Though I didn't design it of course, is less threads and it backs out easier. It's a heavy vibration spot so easy for the screw to back out. I snapped 1 screw there because it started backing out, then used red loctite and it hasn't come out in over a year.
Hope your enjoying the channel brother, see ya round
@@3SonsRC But by threading both, it doesn't allow the threads to act as they are designed. If both sides are threaded the screw won't pull the two components together and create tension on the screw, which is how components stick together without glue. Unless I am missing something, it seems that drilling out the threads on either side would be a much better design. Thanks for the reply. Keep up the good work!
@@jeffgrzankowski6393 yeah I don't know bro all I can say is it absolutely works the way it is you just got to make sure that the bolt is flush up against the steering rack when you thread it through the front side so that way it threads through both of them and there's no Gap that's the only thing you have to be careful of. Also I know that these parts were tested quite a bit so maybe they had issues with it not being threaded and it came loose? Super appreciate the kind support brother
@@jeffgrzankowski6393I had the same thought, however, if you have issues keeping the ball joint flush against the steering rack, you can tighten the ball joint to pull it up against the steering rack even harder (fyi you can use an 11mm socket on it). IMO that makes a for a much better connection between the two, and eliminates the issue that you point out where the screw cannot pull the two parts together.
Keep it up 😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀😀‼‼
Trying buddy,
Need to get out and do another bash video tho🚀🚀🚀
English is not my language. But which or what is the ball ends. Cause I want to know where to put the red locktite
Really most of the time use Blue Loctite wherever metal screws go into metal parts or mounts.
But red I like to used for Grub screws on the pinion, maybe the Grub on the hubs, but blue is fine there. If blue will hold it stay blue, because red needs heat to break loose and if it's close to a plastic part you can burn it, or you can use soldier iron but I always use flame from small torch.
There might be a few other places I use red, just depends on if Blue does not hold it well enough.
Hope your enjoying the channel brother, see ya round
When will it be released ?
Already is bud, I posted the text durring the video, sorry if I didn't make it clearer. Recorded the video over a month ago before it was released. Check the website and link in the discription. Appreciate your time brother
06:24
07:13
06:30 Woow woow 💖❤️
Thanks for your time, but did you mean to post those times to "this" video??
They only swnt me 1 arm
They? Who is they? What are you talking about brother
I just mine on my 8s and it wasn't as hard as I thought.I purchased the steering rack off amazon for 40 bucks. Trimmed it to fit and went to my hardware store bought some aluminum brazing rod filled in the holes on the arm that needs to be shorter then trim to fit.not that hard
What's up brother.
Little confused about what your talking about. The M2C rack is not available on Amazon. "filled in the holes in the arm that needed to be shorter"??
Granted this is an older video before the new Hobbywing motors came out and the v2 steering rack by M2C that is compatible. 🤔🤔
I bought the bell crank and top plate off amazon for 50 bucks.all aluminum.i then took from the hole where the steering arm connects out to the drivers side pivot arm.i ground roughly 0 to 1/8 inch of material off.the drivers side pivot arm (not sure if that's what it's called sorry) I went to my local hardware store and bought aluminum brazing rod (2 stick about 5 bucks) I filled in the hole where the rack bolts on and took my time grinding to fit. I did use the factory plastic part as kind of a template. plastic is a bit easier to work with.
@@silo1082 nice, sounds like this might work well. Most dudes are not this handy that's why M2C is around. I'm sure that aluminum though not M2C quality should be good enough in that particular area. Enjoy brother.
Hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
Yep definitely not m2c quality.from what iv seen of m2c parts (very impressive). I was going to buy the m2c steering rack but I had already purchased these parts and as iv been an aluminum welder for over 20 years I couldn't pass up the challenge of trying to make my own parts.but I love your channel and I will keep on watching.
@@silo1082 appreciate brother