I'm just torn in two. On the one hand, I don't want this awesome series to end. But on the other hand ... I want to see the result of this amazing work. 👍
Hi Bob, I recently discovered your channel after seeing you on Acorn To Arabella, I immediately signed up. I really admire your way of working: kind, clean and professional. Compliments! I too will try in my shop to follow your advice. Greetings from Italy
Nice spoiler on the beam shelf for Arabella. Now I have something to look forward to for next week. Nice instruction on the caulking. Have to get busy getting the tools you showed how to make done. Thanks for the wonderful video. Take care and stay well.
I love what you're doing! Especially with the music, I feel like I'm working in the garage with my dad. Keep up the great work. I'm still excited about next seasons boat too.
Fantástico. Já estou iniciando o meu primeiro barco. Videos são magníficos, ricos em detalhes que possibilita e estimula as pessoas que tem habilidade é claro, para atingir a perfeição como é mostrado na série de vídeos em construção naval. Parabéns. Nos brasileiros precisamos fazer mais esse tipo de trabalho. Terapia
Ooh, you've put up a bit more than Steve did on Acorn's latest vid, ha, ha. Great demmo on caulking, very informative. Of course, working on bigger boats from underneath might be more comfortable than hammering down onto yours, and thus a shorter hammer head may be an advantage, perhaps.
Frankly it makes no odds what you use to set such small seams, any mallet or hammer will do. A caulking mallet comes into it's own when you give it a full swing and hit the Iron with real force. It's only then you can begin to appreciate why they came to be made in that way and what an efficient tool it is. Incidentally, the Iron should be held the other way round, in order to use the index finger to pinch the cotton or oakum. It was also explained to me that I could get by without my pinkie better that without my thumb. A reference to the number of times the mallet would make contact with flesh and bone, before I'd become proficient.
On the "Making" video, there were suggestions that the caulking wheel, being two parts, would pinch the cotton and pull it back out. I'm guilty as charged. Well done Bob! Your caulking wheel worked as designed! May I ask why cotton wicking was passed over in favor of cotton caulking? Wicking comes pre-rolled and in easily separable strands.
Nice bit of information. I am left wondering, however, how you finish off either end of the seams of the caulking, at the stem and stern. Maybe you could show us that in a future video? Of all of the caulking videos I've seen, no one ever shows the ends of the seams being finished. For instance, do the ends of the planks get caulked where they meet each other at the front? Where they meet the rear board/s? That would be some valuable infornation, thanks.
Hi Vincent, I've alternated the cotton twist as once I've rolled it clockwise the remaining cotton is then twisted counter clockwise. By alternating I keep the cotton from tangling up. Not necessary as one get to the end of the seam.
Great video Bob, do you have to caulk all the seams ? Like next to the keel and transom, and the butt end of the joint or am I just over thinking this?.
I was wondering how would you solve the twisting of the rest of the cotton... one foot in one direction and the next in the opposite. I was thinking ropes, where you can't do this. Nice move! Subtleties... Thanks! Best from Brazil!
The reverse of the twist id to keep the long tail form getting tangled. Unlike a rope it does not effect the purpose of the caulking. Once in the joint it is there to stay. O reverso do id de torção para manter a forma de cauda longa ficando emaranhada. Ao contrário de uma corda, não afeta o propósito da calafetagem. Uma vez na junta, está lá para ficar.
This is the most usefull caulking video i've seen so far. Thank you! How are you going to finish the hull though? Bare wood? Linseed oil? Some other paint? Putty into the seems (tradtional linseed oil and chalk or the modern stuff?)?
Another great video Bob. Thanks. I see you doing a lot of bending over. Did you consider raising the strong back up, or would that have made the centerline too hard to reach?
Hi John, The joints on the planks were scarf joined and glued with epoxy before being offered to the boat. Here is a link to that video th-cam.com/video/9imI2kQi7q0/w-d-xo.html
Bob, wonderful job. Starting out with my Haven I built a mold for every frame ala the Landing School. I like your setup much better, and have eliminated every other frame and reduced them by a half inch for the battens. I have a couple questions. Given that you have glued up the keel, are you at all worried that it might not swell, or might not swell enough against the garboard plank? With this design, except for the bed logs attached to the centerboard trunk, there is no "landing" for the garboard plank. This most important plank just abuts the keel. So swelling is especially important. Now, I notice that it is flat sawn and the 4 to 6% swelling you will likely should be enough. Still, I wanted to ask. Second, as I look at the plans, the keel, floors, etc., I'm tempted to make a modification to the keel so that there is a "landing" for the whole garboard, not just against the bed logs. Would be a tricky bit of business but seems doable. Any comment on this?
Hi Thomas, The laminated keel was glued up with a flexible epoxy (7% flex, Total boat slow hardner). I'm not concerned it won't take up. As for a garbroad landing I'm following Joel Whites design. I trust his design is proper. I will say that I caulked the garbroad to keel joint yesterday and with the oak being on one side the packing of the cotton was much stiffer. It required a caulking iron (caulking wheel wasn't up to the task) with substantial mallet blows I could tell no difference whether I was over a floor timber/frame or not. My thought is that I would not change Joel's design, I'm very happy with the construction. Super glad I built the mold with battens. They come in very handy in any clamping and or edge setting that was needed. Best wishes on your build. Keep me updated on your progress. Are you aware of the Facebook group on the Haven 12 1/2? Good resource of other Haven builders. Cheers, Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks, much appreciated. Initially I was going to steam bend a white oak keel per the plans, but I think I will have better luck getting a tight garboard fit if I glue it all up. Getting rid of every other mold station creates a lot of room to work which will be especially helpful when attaching floors. Joel White was an accomplished designer and even the Herreshoff 12.5 "edged" the garboard directly to the keel. Still, I've pretty much sold myself on the idea of changing the keel to create a landing for the garboard plank. I'll send you some pictures. Your video productions have been very helpful.
Paul C I believe he does this so that the whole roving of cotton does not have to be twisted as he works down the seam. By reversing the twist the cotton roving remains untwisted for the length that remains to be worked in.
@@captainwhiplash for me, I asked because I didn't understand it. I did build a model boat, about 1.8m in length and I did it 'the correct' way. It took longer than the planking... about 6 month, off and on. I didn't like it one bit but it was present. Just longer than planned, about 2.5 years longer. In the end I was happy to give it to the man who got me interested in scale models.
Does it matter the direction of the twist between segments? I see that you roll in one direction on some segments and the other in some segments. Are you alternating?
I'm not sure if you're asking if I can help you build a boat or help get you to the USA? If you're interested in me helping to build a boat here is a link to my online Boat Building Clinic. www.boatbuildingbootcamp.com/ Cheers, Bob
You are very meticulous. I expect that if well cared for this boat will be around for a hundred years. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and please continue to stay healthy.
Now that your wore your shoulders out fairing, you get to wear your elbows out caulking, Oh my. Looks nice though. We are getting to see why a wood boat costs so much more than a plastic boat.
Every video is a master class by the classiest boat builder ever. Thanks for all you share sir!
You are a very patient person and you do a nice job. CAULKING - Καλαφάτισμα in Greek, best regards from Cyprus and a ship model maker !!!
I'm just torn in two. On the one hand, I don't want this awesome series to end. But on the other hand ... I want to see the result of this amazing work. 👍
Hi Bob, I recently discovered your channel after seeing you on Acorn To Arabella, I immediately signed up. I really admire your way of working: kind, clean and professional. Compliments! I too will try in my shop to follow your advice. Greetings from Italy
Amazing!
Thank you for sharing!
Amazing after all these centuries that cotton is still the best choice for this. Love the work Bob!
Nice spoiler on the beam shelf for Arabella. Now I have something to look forward to for next week. Nice instruction on the caulking. Have to get busy getting the tools you showed how to make done. Thanks for the wonderful video. Take care and stay well.
Funky 70’s keyboard jam to accompany advice on stuffing caulk into tight cracks. It fits.
Hello,Bob! It's really ART!Thank you!Be blessed!
Nice cameo and share for acorn to arabella ~
Subscribed
Rang the bell!
Cheers from Southern California USA ~
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Just dropped in from Steve's Recommendation of your Channel. Great explanation of how Caulking seals the joint.. SUBBED
Thanks Jon!
Same here!
That mallet is epic...it needs its own name.
Thanks Adam!
I watched your video making the chisel and to see you using it on Arabella was good to see how well it did.
I love what you're doing! Especially with the music, I feel like I'm working in the garage with my dad. Keep up the great work. I'm still excited about next seasons boat too.
I learned of your channel from your visit.
Amazing work, Bob! Really nice!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great video Bob, learned something new today. She is going to be beautiful when she is done.
Thanks Tom!
Saw you yesterday on Steve's Channel ....cheers...rr Normandy, France
another great video and explanation of the process, thanks Bob.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video
Thanks for watching!
Cheers!
nice pizzaroller :)
Thank you Bob!!
Nice work! It's really starting to come together.
Absolutely fantastic!
Fantástico. Já estou iniciando o meu primeiro barco. Videos são magníficos, ricos em detalhes que possibilita e estimula as pessoas que tem habilidade é claro, para atingir a perfeição como é mostrado na série de vídeos em construção naval. Parabéns. Nos brasileiros precisamos fazer mais esse tipo de trabalho. Terapia
Muito obrigado. Estou muito feliz por você estar encontrando um grande valor no vídeo. Obrigado pelo seu comentário e por assistir.
Saúde,
Bob
Yes a new video!!
That moment that you have binge watch a series up to the newest episode
thank you for your very good channel and thank you for helping out on Arabella
Ooh, you've put up a bit more than Steve did on Acorn's latest vid, ha, ha. Great demmo on caulking, very informative. Of course, working on bigger boats from underneath might be more comfortable than hammering down onto yours, and thus a shorter hammer head may be an advantage, perhaps.
@Endoph Daize Oh yes, I remember now, Ben said at the end of the vid.
Frankly it makes no odds what you use to set such small seams, any mallet or hammer will do. A caulking mallet comes into it's own when you give it a full swing and hit the Iron with real force. It's only then you can begin to appreciate why they came to be made in that way and what an efficient tool it is. Incidentally, the Iron should be held the other way round, in order to use the index finger to pinch the cotton or oakum. It was also explained to me that I could get by without my pinkie better that without my thumb. A reference to the number of times the mallet would make contact with flesh and bone, before I'd become proficient.
That hammer looks like something Thor would weild.
On the "Making" video, there were suggestions that the caulking wheel, being two parts, would pinch the cotton and pull it back out. I'm guilty as charged. Well done Bob! Your caulking wheel worked as designed!
May I ask why cotton wicking was passed over in favor of cotton caulking? Wicking comes pre-rolled and in easily separable strands.
Nice bit of information. I am left wondering, however, how you finish off either end of the seams of the caulking, at the stem and stern. Maybe you could show us that in a future video? Of all of the caulking videos I've seen, no one ever shows the ends of the seams being finished. For instance, do the ends of the planks get caulked where they meet each other at the front? Where they meet the rear
board/s? That would be some valuable infornation, thanks.
Hi Thomas,
I will be sure to include that in a future video.
Thanks for your continued support!
Cheers
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding thanks
I was wondering why do you roll it up the boat once and then down the boat alternating the twists on the cotton?
Hi Vincent, I've alternated the cotton twist as once I've rolled it clockwise the remaining cotton is then twisted counter clockwise. By alternating I keep the cotton from tangling up. Not necessary as one get to the end of the seam.
Thankyou for letting me know i appreciate it. Takecare and keep safe
Great video Bob, do you have to caulk all the seams ? Like next to the keel and transom, and the butt end of the joint or am I just over thinking this?.
The sound of cicadas!
I was wondering how would you solve the twisting of the rest of the cotton... one foot in one direction and the next in the opposite. I was thinking ropes, where you can't do this. Nice move! Subtleties... Thanks!
Best from Brazil!
The reverse of the twist id to keep the long tail form getting tangled. Unlike a rope it does not effect the purpose of the caulking. Once in the joint it is there to stay.
O reverso do id de torção para manter a forma de cauda longa ficando emaranhada. Ao contrário de uma corda, não afeta o propósito da calafetagem. Uma vez na junta, está lá para ficar.
This is the most usefull caulking video i've seen so far. Thank you!
How are you going to finish the hull though? Bare wood? Linseed oil? Some other paint? Putty into the seems (tradtional linseed oil and chalk or the modern stuff?)?
Hi, the hull will be painted. The seams will get seam compound. Hopefully will be covered in the next video.
Thanks for watching!
Another great video Bob. Thanks.
I see you doing a lot of bending over. Did you consider raising the strong back up, or would that have made the centerline too hard to reach?
I'll bet I missed the answer in a previous vid but I will still ask. Do you caulk the joints in the planks also?
Hi John,
The joints on the planks were scarf joined and glued with epoxy before being offered to the boat. Here is a link to that video
th-cam.com/video/9imI2kQi7q0/w-d-xo.html
Bob, wonderful job. Starting out with my Haven I built a mold for every frame ala the Landing School. I like your setup much better, and have eliminated every other frame and reduced them by a half inch for the battens. I have a couple questions. Given that you have glued up the keel, are you at all worried that it might not swell, or might not swell enough against the garboard plank? With this design, except for the bed logs attached to the centerboard trunk, there is no "landing" for the garboard plank. This most important plank just abuts the keel. So swelling is especially important. Now, I notice that it is flat sawn and the 4 to 6% swelling you will likely should be enough. Still, I wanted to ask. Second, as I look at the plans, the keel, floors, etc., I'm tempted to make a modification to the keel so that there is a "landing" for the whole garboard, not just against the bed logs. Would be a tricky bit of business but seems doable. Any comment on this?
Hi Thomas,
The laminated keel was glued up with a flexible epoxy (7% flex, Total boat slow hardner). I'm not concerned it won't take up. As for a garbroad landing I'm following Joel Whites design. I trust his design is proper. I will say that I caulked the garbroad to keel joint yesterday and with the oak being on one side the packing of the cotton was much stiffer. It required a caulking iron (caulking wheel wasn't up to the task) with substantial mallet blows I could tell no difference whether I was over a floor timber/frame or not. My thought is that I would not change Joel's design, I'm very happy with the construction.
Super glad I built the mold with battens. They come in very handy in any clamping and or edge setting that was needed.
Best wishes on your build. Keep me updated on your progress. Are you aware of the Facebook group on the Haven 12 1/2? Good resource of other Haven builders.
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks, much appreciated. Initially I was going to steam bend a white oak keel per the plans, but I think I will have better luck getting a tight garboard fit if I glue it all up. Getting rid of every other mold station creates a lot of room to work which will be especially helpful when attaching floors. Joel White was an accomplished designer and even the Herreshoff 12.5 "edged" the garboard directly to the keel. Still, I've pretty much sold myself on the idea of changing the keel to create a landing for the garboard plank. I'll send you some pictures. Your video productions have been very helpful.
What is unique about a calking mallet? Wouldn't a wood mallet or rubber mallet work too?
A question, you started twisting the cotton up, the next part of the seam you twisted it down. What is the reason for that?
Paul C I believe he does this so that the whole roving of cotton does not have to be twisted as he works down the seam. By reversing the twist the cotton roving remains untwisted for the length that remains to be worked in.
@@FrEdmundScott that is my assumption too, just, it also creates a 'lump or rather a void', for lack of a better word.
Paul C yes, the possibility of a weak spot where there is no twist in the cotton as the twist reverses.
Munroe Scott but by this guy making doing something so easy the purpose is suffering. Do it right or don’t do it
@@captainwhiplash for me, I asked because I didn't understand it. I did build a model boat, about 1.8m in length and I did it 'the correct' way. It took longer than the planking... about 6 month, off and on. I didn't like it one bit but it was present. Just longer than planned, about 2.5 years longer. In the end I was happy to give it to the man who got me interested in scale models.
I'm curious. Why, in this modern age, caulk seams? Why not coat the hull and fill the seams with epoxy?
I guess it is for the joy of making a traditional wooden boat in a traditional artisanal way.
How do you establish the water-line? Thanks!
Hopefully I’ll cover it in the next episode
Does it matter the direction of the twist between segments? I see that you roll in one direction on some segments and the other in some segments. Are you alternating?
My guess is so the bitter end doesn’t get all tangled.
Correct!
Where did you find the plans?
At the Wooden Boat Store
www.woodenboatstore.com/products/16-haven-12-1-2-class?variant=16904448573530
hello, I'm doing this job in Turkey, I want to do this job there, can you help me?
I'm not sure if you're asking if I can help you build a boat or help get you to the USA?
If you're interested in me helping to build a boat here is a link to my online Boat Building Clinic.
www.boatbuildingbootcamp.com/
Cheers,
Bob
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding I want to work there
@@TheArtofBoatBuilding
I want to work there and I want to do skull work
You are very meticulous. I expect that if well cared for this boat will be around for a hundred years. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and please continue to stay healthy.
a round handle seems strange vs a oval
Now that your wore your shoulders out fairing, you get to wear your elbows out caulking, Oh my. Looks nice though. We are getting to see why a wood boat costs so much more than a plastic boat.
Contains Spoilers for A2A...
If you were going to produce this boat continually, it might pay to find an old spinning wheel.
lol lol 😆 has
The only real boat is a wood boat
So you alternate the twist?