Removing the bearings from a Johnson 30 HP lower unit
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I remove the bearings from a Johnson 30 HP lower unit. This involves driving out the bearings, pressing out one bearing and pulling out the seals and bearing race.
If you are enjoying this channel, please consider making a donation to www.paypal.me/... or become a Patreon of Dangar Marine at / dangarmarine
T-shirts available at dangarmarine.c... Post photos of you wearing your shirt to @dangarstu on Instagram!
Dangar Marine is proudly sponsored by MarineEngine.com. MarineEngine.com supplies a wide variety of spare parts for many brands of outboard motors, be sure to check out their online store.
All music available at soundscloud.com...
"I like when things go that easy, it makes it look like I know what I'm doing". Pure gold
Thank you for your "Reality TV" how to boat mechanic videos. I think I have seen about 10-20 of your videos. I call it reality because we face what you show us, instead of what some other videos show in a sterile expensive equipment shop where they work on brand new motors. I have been building up a 2010 Yamaha F6 that has been neglected. So far fixed broken shifter mechanism, which requires removal of the power head. I have now removed the power head about six times. The power head only ways about 30 pounds. Blew out carb, cleaned gas tank. Etc. I am stumped on replacing the lower seals, because some are behind pressed in bearings. I am about to buy a little puller. Thanks!
Stu, I always appreciate how you fashion alternatives to the expensive custom outboard tools. If I could afford expensive custom outboard tools I wouldn’t be trying to repair 1970s outboards so that I can go fishing! :) Great video as always sir.
Thanks Al, you're dead right about if you can afford the tools you can afford a new outboard!
I learn more when watching the experts troubleshoot. Thanks for including it
Boss, Wait til you see the pull I just came back from. Scored a pristine 76 johnson 15, looks pristine, with original decals and all. I was like WHOA. bundled that up for 310 clams and took off towards east Texas and met another guy who had a 75 Johnson 15, immaculate. Fellow was proficient at rods and reels also, PJ is what I know him by. The soul was so kind to give me not one, not two, but THREE old motors and lower units, just outta the kindness of his heart. Then, lo and behold, a 25 Mercury 2 stroke two cylinder with GREAT compression but carb issues was aside a building that I fixed my headlamp on (it was 11pm when I arrived, and four hours back, just got home. Whew... ) so yeah, he seriously said fifty bucks and you can take it. He was kind enough to even write me a bill of sale for the merc, and of course for the 75. Total spent, 750-800 for total trip fuel and all but wow. I cannot wait to learn more about the workings of these engines and have them back up and running, I’ll do a video on what I have once I build an outboard motor mount. Thats tomorrow. Thanks again for your inspiration.
Sounds like you've had an amazing shopping trip! :)
@@DangarMarine Texas is nice to pass through, pretty big sky. I remember when I went to Colorado once, I passed through during daylight and the windmills And Land are beautiful to behold, headed out towards Montana here soon, prolly too cold to dive out that way .
Thanks for helpin me get my bearings around my boat. i like your beating around the bushing approach to boat repairs. joking aside. really your info has helped me so much . Thank you. now get out there and take us fishin for awhile.
Ah Coop, you never disappoint. ;)
Thanks Stu. Been waiting a while for this video :-) well done. Got the 1968 9.8 Merc back on the water for my 85 yr old mate and your videos and comment responses were very helpful :-)
The motor has been in his family since it was new. Lots of sentimental value for him.
The pull start tension adjustment video was golden! You should have seen the look on his face the first time he pull it after the adjustment. It was priceless....
That's wonderful to hear mate, glad to hear his outboard is starting nicely again. :)
I made it!!. Just spent the last week and a half going through ALL your videos. As a lot of comments say, you have a great way of passing on information, really enjoy the odd bit of tongue in cheek humour. Looking forward to the next 3 years of uploads. Well done.
Thanks Raymond, that's a big effort! :)
That slide hammer attachment on the vice-grips is genius!
I love it, it is handy for so many random things.
i am doing a lower end rebuild on a johnson 25 hp motor from 1988, prior to removing any bearings from under the impeller housing i will measure the depth from the top to get an idea of proper location since there seems to be no info. the "witness" marks on the pinion gear will also help a lot, thanks for that tip! without your set of videos on this i would have to pay a considerable amount of cash that I DONT HAVE! this has all been super helpful 1 thank you for sharing your knowledge!
“I love when things are that easy, it makes it look like i know what im doing” 😂😂😂
Man, I’ve watched a ton of your videos, you know what you are doing better than most
I appreciate that!
Very informative video, it helped me a lot on my 35 HP 1999 Johsnon
I can’t get enough of your videos.watch them all,Stu
Thanks Chris!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, I’m about to overhaul a 15HP 1976 Evinrude lower end. The spigot tool is only 20 clams at harbor freight! I have to make a hammer vice grip like yours. Looks real useful !
Nice job with that puller Stu. Using that plate steel and the threaded rod worked really well. I’ll keep that in my memory bank. Might come in handy eventually!
Where there is a will there is a way! :)
You really make it look easy , greetings !
You can do it!
Dangar Marine
Thank you , I’m a big Fan , love your videos , they inspire people to do what they love in boating
YOU THE MASTER . MY LETTLE 3 HP YAMAHA HAVE GEAR PROBLEM SO THIS WEEK WACHT AGAIN ALL YOUR VIDEOS ABOUT GEAR . ( HAVE PROPELER LIKE FREE WHEN TURN TO FORWARD )
Thanks mate, hope you get it sorted.
Very interesting video Stu, making use of what you have around / odds and ends.
Thanks Angelo. There is always something lying around that will get the job done!
Best puller this side of Berowra mate..great vid ! Thanks
Thanks Mark! :)
Thanks Stu. Super helpful as always
Great seeing that Stu. Your approach is reassuring and would give me confidence attempting a similar job. Oh and love your comment regards the ratchet spanners ... I think that in the normal course of events they are as useful as and ashtray on a motorbike.
Hey John, glad the vid gave you confidence. I like to use those ratchet spanners at least once a year. ;)
Dangar Marine of course it's good to keep the cobwebs off lol
easy to see that you love what you do my man great video
Thanks mate!
I dont if I can't wait that long. I need a new video stu. Lol. Am sure it's worth the wait.
Your videos are soo helpful! This one got me to subscribe! Im reconditioning (sort of) my 1985 Evinrude 90 V4. Thanks brother!
Thanks for the sub!
"....It's perfectly acceptable to hammer on extensions and sockets and things, as long as they're yours..."
After hearing that, I half expected to see Arn come over, grab the tools, give you a dirty look, and wander out of frame.
If only he wasn't so camera shy! ;)
I changed all my seals in my merc. Most of my seals came out super easy and they were leaking a fair amount of oil. I reinstalled with loctite per the manual which was weird at first read, but it hasn’t leaked a drop since.
Yes, a bit of sealant around the outside of the seal can be a good way to go, particularly if the gearbox is a bit pitted or worn. Glad it isn't leaking now!
My 30hp Johnson outboard was made in 1956 and has a 6 V starter Lower units completely different
Hey Stu I can't wait to see you reassemble that johnson gearcase. Even though mine is a 1976 35hp. The gearcases are identical. If anyone can do it you can.👍
Should be the next video! :)
That is a nice bearing seal puller! The special tools can be improvised, but there is often a specific depth the bearing and seals must be positioned at. The two pinion bearing are one example of where the special tools are very helpful. The seals are not necessarily pressed in against one another as well. Needless to say the forward bearing race and some of the bearings get pressed in until they seat, but one must be very careful not to damage the bearings. The general rule is to press against the numbered/lettered side of the bearing because this side is thicker, pressing against the opposite/rounded side of the needle bearings will damage them. It is a shame that OMC designed those housing with such thin aluminum walls around the seals, these are often eroded quickly in salt water, the 9.9/15 gear housings have the same problem...
Yes, I am worried about getting those pinion bearings installed in their correct position. I may have to see if I can find the special tool for that job, or at least the measurements so I can make something up. Great tip about pressing from the side with the writing, taking a second look at the old ones I can see exactly what you are saying. Thanks!
Those lower drive shaft bearings- to reinstall just use the same system you used for removing the shift linkage bush - threaded rod, plate and nuts to pull the bearings up. It has worked for me in the past.
Been thinking about whether to go top down or bottom up. I think what I really need is to find the measurements of the custom tool to find out their final positions.
Check for witness marks from the old bearings and measure those. But long needle bearings in such a low horsepower motor I wouldn't be too worried about being a few millimetres out as long as the seal sits in the right place.
Good video mate, was hoping to come and visit you when we were in Sydney , but unfortunately never made it 😔
Next time!
Good video mate there are no rules as long as the job is done , i did that with an extension and ended up buying a new one take care .
I've found decent tools to be pretty hardy. One thing Arn said to be very early on is that a tool make from cheaper metal will break and you are likely to get hurt in the process. It's something that has always stuck with me when assessing the cost.
I have to admit i did give it a hammering was good quality no kmart crap was kingchrome cant remember what i used it for but now it is a drift punch .
I just got done using a flat head screw driver to split that needle bearing sleeve out....ugh tried the torch tried pushing it out. No bueno
Loved this video. I have a 1978 Johnson 25HP tiller steer with electric start. Hopefully won't need this video or that puller tool, but I feel confident if I had to rebuild that lower unit, I could watch your videos on the topic for a day or 2 and then tackle the job myself. I just got this engine in late March and it's running great. What do you recommend a person do when first getting an engine? What to look for to catch issues that are small now, but would grow to be big issues over time? I've watched your regular maintenance vids and maybe that's enough. You're an awesome mechanic and the way you present in your videos is superb.
Hi mate, glad you've been enjoying the vids. The biggest concern with a nice-to-you motor is that the impeller is good. Not so much from the point of view of overheating but if it is perished, bits will break off and go through the motor and be hard to get out again. Also make sure the gearbox oil doesn't have any water in it.
Dangar Marine nowmy 2.5hp merc that I still have is putting gas (petrol) into the water when I try to start it. Carb? Seal somewhere gone bad?
Stu you have really inspired me with all your videos so much that I want to do a proper 4 day course at Falmouth Marine College. As they have a minimum number before the course becomes viable would it be ok if I publicised it in your comments section? It'd be awesome if you could also mention it on your next video. They've already had to cancel it once due to lack of demand. Thanks so much.
The course sounds good. You may also want to post about it on the Outboard Troubleshooter Facebook page as that has a bit following.
Hi Stu, I was wondering how many bearings are in a typical lower unit. Great techniques on removing them. I have also used sockets and a "C" clamp to remove them or a vise.
8-12
Stu, you have to hurry with the reassembly video. We're starting to misplace the parts! Terrific video. Needed this for many years. What diagram should we use to remember the order and direction of replacement?
Thanks Bruce, bearings are on there way! The parts diagrams on the MarineEngine.com are great for seeing how things go back together. www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1994&hp=30&model=J30EERM&manufacturer=Johnson§ion=Gearcase
Could you do a quick video on how to gap the breakers. If not it's cool thx.
I'd like to do a video on that. I don't have an old outboard with points but next time we get an old car in I'll use that to explain the principles.
Thank you your a life Saver!!!!
Seriously
T.H.A.N.K.Y.O.U!!!!!!!!!!!
You're welcome. :)
Enjoyed the video and found it valuable to understand the inner configuration of the lower unit. I have a crack in my lower unit above the propeller on the main housing. The motor seems to cavitate. Can the lower unit be welded to seal up that crack or could something else cause the motor to cavitate.
The aluminium can be welded, but you need to make sure it doesn't put the propshaft out of alignment when it is. Hard to say what causes the cavitation but I always go by the principle of fix what you know is broken and then go from there.
Hi there down under :) ....... I wonder how your boat building proses is going !
Haven't been working on the boat much lately but I'm going to buy some more plywood this week and finally get back to it.
Funny. we call them 'Clutch Dogs' here in Canada. Not 'Dog Clutch'! :)
They are slightly different terms in that a dog clutch is the whole clutch (ie, saying what type of clutch it is) while the clutch dogs are the protrusions on the clutch that lock into the gears.
Use brass when-ever you can for the removal process,, Remember aluminum expands 3 times faster than SS. use a bit of heat on the Aluminum prior to the pull or punch,, Also spray things down with hot soapy water you will be surprised at the results. , You got it done & that is all that matters , good video... kodi
I've never tried hot soapy water, I'll give that a try.
Hey Stu. Can you do a video converting a pull start to electric you know changing flywheel and coils. Etc. I want to convert my johnson but like to see you do it first if possible thx mate.
th-cam.com/video/Vt8aRamdac4/w-d-xo.html
Hey Stu. To answer ur ? The impeller was is pieces I remove the exhaust cover to check for pieces and found a tiny so I cleaned it out but I also found the inner exhaust plate ( stainless about 2mm thick) is warped pretty bad I can't find one online or ME.com so should try to fix the old or make a new one??. Thx mate
I can't picture the plate, but I would start by trying to fix it.
Do oil seals get replaced? I had a bearing go out in my '95 Mariner engine and there were metal shavings in the oil so I was planning on replacing all the bearings (though I am debating just thoroughly cleaning up the other bearings that otherwise seem fine), but what I didn't know is if I should be replacing all the oil seals as well. Do manufacturers generally offer a rebuild kit with all the oil seals and bearings or do you just buy everything piece meal?
By the way, your videos have helped me tremendously in getting this far! Watching you disassemble a few lowers gave me the confidence to try it myself and so far, so good! Rather than $400 for a used lower, or $300+ at a shop, I will have $30-150 worth of bearings and/or oil seals and thats it.
Oil seals are cheap and generally easy to replace. Don't scrimp, just replace them .
Bearings and oil seals are generally sold separately but in this case I did buy a kit of all the seals and gaskets in one package.
Hey stu do you ever work on the likes of mercury stern legs? Would love a video about the uj’s that go through the leg and all the bearings cheers
No, we only have small outboards on these local commuter boats.
Hey stu you ever seen where with the spark plugs out, the motor turns over real easy but when I put the compression tester on it's pretty hard to pull, the first 1 or 2 feet pull ok but the last foot or so almost kind of jams up. But I can still pull it all the way. Idk its weird, It is on a stand I made . What do you think?
It could just have very good compression making it hard to pull over when the plugs are in. It could also be that it is the wrong spark plug and the piston is hitting it.
Ok I know the plugs are right so thx good news
When can we expect the new video?
Probably not until first weekend in July now.
Hey stu. Is it a good idea to replace condensers and breakers after a long time?
I would, definitely.
Can you show or tell me how to remove the races out of 2015 yamaha 50 hp
Hey Stu I watch the video but have sum ?. ME.com list 2 separate driver coils for rope and electric but both look the same. Do I need to swap them. And do I need to add a stator assembly and a rectifier. Do I need all this?
Hmmm, not sure about the driver coils. If they have different part numbers I would be inclined to email MarineEngine.com and see if they can shed any light on the difference. If you want to charge your battery you will need a stator and rectifier but you may already have them. I'd pop the flywheel off first and take a look.
Hey Stuart im having a little trouble with my Yamaha 30hp its pulling really hard to the left on the tiller, i watched your video on props and i thinks its that paddle wheel affect you were talking about. I have to a set of hydrofoils bolted to the plate above the prop from the previous owner however he has bolted them through the anode plate so i cant turn the anode to compensate without screwing through the plate again. Also how far would you recommend turning the anode to compensate for the paddle wheel affect? cheers
Generally it isn't turned that much - 5 to 10 degrees. It will make a big difference.
Thanks but drilling through the anode plate for the hydrofoils is that ok?
I broke the head bolt on my 1970 Johnson 25. How should I get it out.
If there is a bit of shank sticking out you can try turning it with vice grips. Sometimes you can also weld a nut on the end and turn that. Next step is to drill and try an EZ Out or something similar. If that doesn't work then you may need to go to drilling the whole bolt out and repairing the thread. I'm planning to do a video on this soon.
Nice video Stu. How much are the t shirts?
You can get them online here dangarmarine.com.au/collections/merchandise/products/dangar-marine-t-shirt Prices are in Australian dollars.
If yamaha 30hp drop performance what to diagnose
Have you figured out how to reassemble the gearbox yet?
I think I've got my head around it now, it shouldn't be too hard.
Hey stu. Is it ok to use copper based gasket sealant on a outboard motor??. Thx mate.
Gawd no.
Ok thx
Yes, copper will eat aluminium away.
Hey boss been checking out your helm and steering cable replacement videos, and I am about to replace my whole system soon, but I must ask I was going to run across my lake and when I turned I heard a snap and lost steering my steering wheel turns freely either way forever, and the cable for the steering cable ripped where the the steering cable enters the steering rod on my mercury classic fifty 45hp I haven't owned the boat long and I assume the old owner never replaced it, so would a whole helm replacement fix this? Is I guess what I want to know before I get a kit. I'm pretty new to my boat I'm a young guy so I just want to get some expert advice, i tried to describe my ordeal best I can but if you need clarification on anything I can try to help clear thing up
You may need to replace the helm, yes. Sometimes if the cable snaps inside it can be hard to get the cable out. I would start by trying to get the old cable out. If the old cable does come out and a new one winds in easily then you may be able to re-use it.
Dangar Marine awesome man thank you very much I was able to get the cable out today, so I left the helm attached and ordered my new kit so hopefully I'm able to reuse t and just connect the new cable
Dangar Marine I think I kinda described it wrong so the metal it's self didn't break but the cable right before he rod goes into the engine did so I don't have any tension to the steering wheel thanks a ton for the response it really means a lot. Good to see a knowledgeable guy take the time to help others out you're a good dude.
hey i have a jonhon 25 and i has good compression lower uint is good drive shaft is not bent and carb is clean, it runs but wont go on plain idk why
It could simply be that the hull is too big for the motor, but I would also look at the ignition timing as you get to full throttle.
I have a video of it running before it messed up and its going like 35 40 mph idk what that is in nots but had the timing redone and still no power. the perpeller is kinda beat up do u think is tht or any other suggestions
Hi, I might try and have a go at my gearbox and fit a new set of gears, what type of puller would I need or you recommend to seperate the forward gear and inner bearing. Thanks
A spigot bearing puller should do the job.
@@DangarMarine Thanks for reply, funny enough it just fell off in my hand, so no problems there. 🤣
Should have measured the old bearings how deep they sit from the top, then just put the new ones in at the same height.
Yes, I probably should have. Hoping it won't be too hard to find the spec.
Stu dou think a 300 08 etec would be the same as that evinrude lower unit same procedures but bigger pieces
Hookednrolling- yes, pretty much the same ideas on all of them , especially with in the same company. Even the 'electronic' selection of forward reverse on the current Etecs, the actual gear box is the same idea in terms of bearings/seals/dog clutches etc , it is just that a servo is used to move the selector rod instead of a cable. Just more things to go wrong, and more mass over the stern of the boat that you don't want out there in my book.
Ron Powell I agree there nothing wrong with mine I was wondering instead of dealer I might do lower unit work my self with my brother we can usually figure it out plus I bought evinrude shop Manuel much better than after market Manuel JT
JT. Keep the fishing line out of the propeller side seal, change the water pump impellor every year along with the oil and be positive in your gear engagements and you can get 15 - 20 years or more out of a gear box without doing much else. The bearings really live in a good spot on the lower leg if no water gets in the oil and rarely fail. The seals just wear out from doing their job though, not really much you can do about that. One thing I hate hearing at the ramp is that graunching of dogs as people engage the gears too slow. The problem is many people then try again even slower which makes it worse.
Ron Powell will do need to get out there as soon as they fix postcard inn in islamorada after Irma the Florida keys worlds sport fishing capital of the world love the keys keepin your lines tight John
What type of seal puller is that and do you have a part number or proper name?
The one in the thumbnail is a spigot bearing puller.
@@DangarMarine I've never heard of a spigot bearing I think we just call it something different. I really like watching the videos you're very thorough and like you before I make a video of anything I have to open my beer!! Lol
How do you get parts from marineengine.com when they dont ship to Australia?
They only recently changed to not being able to ship outside of the US.
@@DangarMarine any good alternatives?
Top 10. What do I win?
My never-ending appreciation for watching. ;)
An old driveshaft bearing from a 30hp Johnson 🤣
Hey! It would be amazing if somebody could give me some advise. Here is my problem: I have a 2011 Evinrude e tech 25hp. It is a 20” shaft, and was used in salt water. In a rush, I snapped off two of 6 lower unit bolts. I disconnected the shift lineage behind the intake plates. The lower unit doesn’t budge more than 1mm barley. I need to replace the water pump and seals. I’ve tried some heat but I don’t want to burn off my paint. What should I do? Am I missing a linkage under the cowling? Thankyou so much I need help.
I don't know that motor specifically but there is often a hidden bolt under the trim tab.
Dude if have any tips for reinstalling the needle seat for an 1986 force 85hp. I can't get them in right to save my life.
Do you mean adjusting them , or just the deinstall / reinstall of the needle seat? Normally the seats just screw in , and have a firm gasket between the hex head and the carb body. Not too much to get out of whack with that install.
Ron Powell the needle seats in an 86 85hp force are pressed in and very difficult to get in and out. I got it done still have a fuel leak from #1 carb float bowl. Frustrating as it can be but I will get it. Thanks for the thoughts.
Yes, press fitting can be quite tricky when the items are small and delicate. I've only dealt with the screw in type Ron described but there might be some good tips in the service manual if you can get a PDF one online.
Bud. I have only ever seen the pressed in seats, never changed them but I have watched it being done. The guy pushed an 'easy out' into the seat first, then used an oven to heat the whole top unit of the bowl to about 100F, then a spray of freeze spray onto the easy out and the seat only , then used the easy out to pull the seat out. The new seat was sitting in the freezer. The guy then did the usual clean up of the fuel intake passages, and then stuck the top unit back in the oven and up to 100F again. After about 30 minutes the new seat was given a coat of low strength Loctite (to seal the new seat as removing the old one 'always scratches the mount, you cant stop it from happening' and then pushed by hand into the carb , wiped clean and then left to drop to room temp. I am assuming the float level has been checked and new gaskets fitted. But pressed in seats sort of implies a design criteria of ' last warranty and then sell them a new carb' as the seats are known to get worn and need changing.
I have a question for you. The merc runs great up to speed and idle but after it sits going to start it takes a few times but after its started runs fine. It's like the oil injection is leaking into the carbs when sitting. Here is the mercury oil injection diagram for a 40hp similar less one carb. Mine is a 60hp 2 stroke 3 cylinder
goo.gl/images/z1obo3
Hey Tim. It can be a few things. Sometimes with fuel injected outboards the injectors can leak into the cylinders flooding the motor, but this isn't really possible with carbs. It could be oil leaking into the crankcase depending on where it is injected. If it is into the carb bowl then it would likely just be smokey. It could also be fuel entering the crank case through the fuel pump or air in the fuel system after draining down.
The oil is going from the pump to mix in with the fuel straight to the top carb then thru the other 2. It smokes when first starting up then quits smoking after running for a few seconds. I was thinking with it tilt trimmed up while going to the boat launch may have something to do with it?
I'm trying to figure out whether or not I need to replace the driveshaft bearings on my lower unit. Should there be any play whatsoever when I wiggle the drive shaft back and forth? (I have the bearing carrier out of the lower unit if that makes a difference). Here's a video of it: th-cam.com/video/MSgH1Db1jew/w-d-xo.html
That wobble does look like a bit more than I would be happy with.
Thank you for your reply, I decided to just strip the whole darn lower unit down to nothing and rebuild it. Your videos have been so helpful to me, keep up the good work :)
No es posible oírlo en español por fa grasias
nothing's easy is it ...😂😊👍🏻
I find calling the scrap metal guy to come and pick and old outboard up not too hard. ;)
That sucks you don't even explain how to pull the seals wth
not a fan of johnson o/b