I have taken in a 93 johnson 25hp in a deal on a other outboard. So this series is just great. I hope you get a workshop setup again, there is nobody like you to do theese outboard repair videos
Ty so much for your videos and knowledge. I have an '89 sea nymph fishing boat with 40hp Johnson that I had given up on at this point. The motor has been giving me fits for a few yrs now and I was ready to let it go until I found your videos. Thanks to your knowledge I've been able to diagnose the issues and fix everything myself. Carbs cleaned , VRO deleted, coil replaced and currently have the tilt trim unit in a vice preparing for a new seal kit. I would have never made it this far if it wasn't for you. Ty again for all that you have shared with us and please keep up the good work.
TIMKEN roller bearings!!!!!!! (Proudly made in my home town of North Canton, Ohio) Home of the Pro Football Hall of Fame!! That bearing traveled a long way to find you Stu!! Great video!
Math and all, that looked perfect. As clean as you got the housing, and the kit you used, I agree a hammer could do the job. A press is always a sweet tool. The cold press bearing is supposed to be top secret! Lol I’ve used the hot/cold press on the odd automotive bearing and bushing jobs. It does make it easier. Brilliant as always Stu. I made my wife watch your anchor and Hawkesbury River video last night. Good advice for such an unglamorous duty. Yet nothing more is as important to the ship and her crews safety. Great vacation video also. Even though you were working on your vacation video.😬 🚤
Great Job Stu! Hope you enjoyed your vacation. Love LU videos. It sucks you need so many special tools or the need to make them. This can turn a 2 hour project (while having all the OEM tools) to a project that sits on a bench for months while trying to find or research to make them. I love watching people come up with diy ways around having to buy expensive specialty tools. I wish I could see my Merc LU in detail like this. When looking on TH-cam or internet for LU work for my model, it's only the water pump and oil change. Never the innards and the good stuff, lol!😀
Thanks Jim. My plan for the future of this channel (in between other vids) is to find old outboards like this of each brand and just go through it top to tow. There will be a Merc in there eventually! :)
Just bought 98 model bass boat with 115 johnson . Read some good reviews on that motor and hope they are correct. Definitely over my head what you did on them new bearings there but enjoyed watching as always. Thanks Stu!!!
So it turns out the depth of the second bearing in my replacement LU was lower than the depth in my original LU. My original LU’s second bearing depth was 5”, and the replacement LU had the second bearing at 5-7/16”. Honestly, it probably doesn’t matter. Both bearings hold the pinion gear and it gets connected to the drive shaft. As long as you put the bottom bearing flush with the bottom of the cylinder and the second bearing below the line scribed inside the cylinder, I think you’ll be fine. Just make sure there is enough exposed hole on the side wall for gear lube to get around the outside of the second bearing. Also, when reassembling your gears, my prop shaft came out with the clutch dog in the neutral position. It can be reinstalled the exact same way, without having to use that fancy ball bearing tool. Insert the shift lever assembly first then insert the prop shaft with the clutch dog still in the neutral position. Then just use some needle nose pliers to move the shift lever into position and screw in the pivot pin. Done, no special tools required. By far, the hardest part of this project was pulling the shift rod bushing and the retainer ring that holds the gears in. My ring pliers slipped about 500 times before I finally got the retainer ring to come out. The shift rod bushing would not budge at all. I had to use combination of DIY slide hammer and then threaded rod puller. It took almost a whole day to do both of these things.
Very resourceful! Be sure to get those two thrust washers/bearing properly installed on the pinion before installation. The manual calls out the proper orientation
"It may not be millimeter perfect, but I don't see what else we can do." It's a difficult situation, but In my case anyway, I find that another beer often helps.
Im about to start the process of installing new forward, reverse, and pinion gear. Can you tell me if the measurements you used for the pinion bearing were good. Did you ever take the motor out and did it work like it should?
Stu I believe someone could use a caliper or depth mic prior to disassembly to get the depth readings of the bearings. I usually do this if I am not referring to a manual. also be weary of lubing bearings in a magnetic tray :S
Yes, if I had known it was going to be so hard to come by the information I definitely would have measured before removing. I just thought it would be in the manual for sure. You are right about the tray. I have a bad habit of grabbing the closest thing rather than the best thing. ;)
I love listening to metric measurements. It makes me feel like I'm not alone. Dentists in the US use the metric system which makes us weirdos compared to the imperial guys. They talk in inches and thousandths of inches and I'm at a loss. Give me metric or give me death!
Interesting to hear that dentists use the metric system. I imagine many high-end engineering firms do too. There are only three countries left in the world that use the imperial system so it must make it hard to work with other suppliers and manufacturers.
You can say the same thing about any language. Its simply about what youre used to using. If the World makes English the universal language then Ill gladly start using metrics. Wars are fought because of language way to often.
This question is totally unrelated to the subject of your video, but I noticed that there appears to be the inklings of a stitch and glue project written on the blackboard in your intro. What kind of boat were you thinking of making?
@@DangarMarine I was just wondering. I plan on buidling a Glen-L Super Spartan mini hydroplane or CLC Cocktail Class Racer this winter. Both of them are stitch and glue. Of course, the wire stitching is removed after the parts have been bonded together with epoxy or resin.
Quick question: Instead of pressing in these bearings from the top, can they be mounted on the trunion gear, and installed from the bottom? I mean, since they came out that way, and no distance measuring?
Hello, I have a 2003 Mercury 150 saltwater motor and I took it for service and it came back with a rattle noise from the lower unit it does it only when in the flusher out of the water any advice please (talked to the mechanic that work on it he said the noise is normal). Thanks.
Love your videos. Where do you get your seal kits and other Johnson parts from? Seems like you can get just about everything up there, I'm having trouble getting parts down here in Geelong.
Thought so, but their website says they only sell and ship to US customers. I guess you're exception being in the trade and regular customer. Thanks for your reply.
Welcome back! Hope your trip was awesome! Quick question, I have a 1997 Johnson 115hp on a 17’ Bass boat. It starts, idles, and low speed travels great. I’m having an intermittent issue where it basically bogs down at full throttle launch and will not go on plane. I have played with different trim settings at launch, and can get it to plane out sometimes by doing this. Once on plane it goes full throttle without any issues. Any thoughts on what might be the problem? “Most often caused by” ideas? Any help is greatly appreciated.
It sounds like maybe the carbs aren't able to supply the correct amount of fuel when you open the throttle up so I would start with a carb clean and go from there.
Dangar Marine I did that once and it helped a bit but shortly began doing the same. There didn’t seem to be much to those carbs. Would it be worth rebuilding them?
Also put a service kit into the fuel pump and check the fuel bulb- but if you have the old silver fuel hose get it changed out/check the filter for plastic bits in there.
Hey Stu glad you're back man learned a lot from your channel. Had a bit of a problem maybe you can help me out. I have a 94 200hp mariner that's giving me problems compression is great on all cylinders but its overheating. I changed thermostats, impeller. Impeller housing, and head gasket. Still overheating, any idea what could be going on? Water is coming nice and strong out of tell tale btw thanks in advance
I presume when you had the head off the water jackets looked clear. Have you tried taking the thermostat housing off and seeing if water flows out of it when it is running?
Dangar Marine the water jackets weren't that bad but I ended up cleaning them up real good. I also ran the engine without thermostats and water was gushing from both holes so good on that area too. Any other ideas? Thanks for taking time to reply
Thanks for replying Stu. I have a 30hp 2 stroke Evinrude. 1991. same layout as the one you are working on. When it's cold it starts on the button. When it's warmed up it won't start . Several minutes of turning the engine over and it might fire up long enough to get it into gear and then it's away. New plugs, carb cleaned out. primer solenoid working. Clean fuel. 125psi compression. !!Any ideas. Local workshop just shrugging their shoulders :-(
It does soften but I pump it again , but it never gets really hard anyway. carb cleaned by me, looked all good. float sitting good. Also I got an invoice to show it had a poor starting issue and workshop stripped carb in 2016 , little use since , thanks
The fuel bulb should get hard to squeeze if the fuel float , needle valve and bulb one way valves are working correctly. So you need to find that pressure leak first off. It does sound like a fuel float level/fuel flood problem though.
Hi mate. You can get all the part numbers from MarineEngine.com diagrams www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1994&hp=30&model=E30RLERM
Hola, soooooooooo, I have a 1988 50 hp Johnson, it looks like it's back firing & when it does it comes out the vro pump, Please help its driving me crazy, Also give me a link to get a shirt to send a pic, I want to take a video of it but dont know how to tag you in it.
Rompe Todo is the VRO driven by the crankcase or is it electronic? What do you mean its backfiring out of the VRO? My merc vro is sucked in via pressure. I have heard that older model Johnsons had a bad problem with their VRO system and most remove and premix. But I've never owned a Johnson and couldn't tell you what years were problematic. Older Mercs had a problem with using a plastic gear that would tear up. But the metal gear VRO is a very reliable system.
jimbo gasoline, Its electronic, I run premix, the vro is disconnected electronically as I mix the oil and gas together, so my outboard runs it kinda splurges and back fire and I see the exhaust smoke come out the vro pump, I will be taking a video of it and put the link here
I would be focusing more on the reason for the backfire than the VRO pump. Backfire could be HT leads in wrong order, timing way out, carb synch issue, carbs running lean, bad reed valves etc Check each one of these first.
I have taken in a 93 johnson 25hp in a deal on a other outboard. So this series is just great. I hope you get a workshop setup again, there is nobody like you to do theese outboard repair videos
This whole series of videos on the lower unit rebuild is excellent! It's really helping me with my Johnson 35 rebuild. Thank you!
Great to hear!
Ty so much for your videos and knowledge. I have an '89 sea nymph fishing boat with 40hp Johnson that I had given up on at this point. The motor has been giving me fits for a few yrs now and I was ready to let it go until I found your videos. Thanks to your knowledge I've been able to diagnose the issues and fix everything myself. Carbs cleaned , VRO deleted, coil replaced and currently have the tilt trim unit in a vice preparing for a new seal kit. I would have never made it this far if it wasn't for you. Ty again for all that you have shared with us and please keep up the good work.
You're very welcome, glad the videos were able to help you. :)
Good move knocking out that VRO especially!
I'm not rebuilding anything but it's such a pleasure to watch and listen to your videos.
TIMKEN roller bearings!!!!!!! (Proudly made in my home town of North Canton, Ohio) Home of the Pro Football Hall of Fame!! That bearing traveled a long way to find you Stu!! Great video!
It is amazing to picture these parts travelling to the other side of the world to find their new home. :)
Do Timken make conrod roller main bearings on the crank shaft for a 1972 Johnson 9.5 hp? Crowley Marine etc State Not Available
Glad you're back
Thanks mate!
Welcome back Stu. Another excellent video. Thanks.
Great videos. Lots of good info. Happy boating from Canada
Thanks for putting my picture on the wall Stu. You got my name just right. Greetings from Belgium.
You're welcome David, sorry it took me so long.
Thanks Stu..don't think I've ever seen technodemo on the lower gear case. Great explanations!
Thanks John. :)
Math and all, that looked perfect. As clean as you got the housing, and the kit you used, I agree a hammer could do the job. A press is always a sweet tool. The cold press bearing is supposed to be top secret! Lol I’ve used the hot/cold press on the odd automotive bearing and bushing jobs. It does make it easier. Brilliant as always Stu.
I made my wife watch your anchor and Hawkesbury River video last night. Good advice for such an unglamorous duty. Yet nothing more is as important to the ship and her crews safety.
Great vacation video also. Even though you were working on your vacation video.😬 🚤
Thanks Kris. Glad you enjoyed the vid and I hope your wife wasn't too bored with the anchoring! :)
Great Job Stu! Hope you enjoyed your vacation. Love LU videos. It sucks you need so many special tools or the need to make them. This can turn a 2 hour project (while having all the OEM tools) to a project that sits on a bench for months while trying to find or research to make them. I love watching people come up with diy ways around having to buy expensive specialty tools. I wish I could see my Merc LU in detail like this. When looking on TH-cam or internet for LU work for my model, it's only the water pump and oil change. Never the innards and the good stuff, lol!😀
Thanks Jim. My plan for the future of this channel (in between other vids) is to find old outboards like this of each brand and just go through it top to tow. There will be a Merc in there eventually! :)
Great vid Stu ! Straight back into it mate...hope you are refreshed and had a decent break. Was a pity to see Croatia go down last night :(
Thanks Mark. It was a shame to see Croatia lose, but they played a good game. I think they were unlucky with the penalty and the free kick.
Welcome back from your holiday mate
Thanks mate. :)
Just bought 98 model bass boat with 115 johnson . Read some good reviews on that motor and hope they are correct. Definitely over my head what you did on them new bearings there but enjoyed watching as always. Thanks Stu!!!
Hope the motor gives you many years of reliable service. :)
Super well-done Video as usual Stu. Thanks Bud !!…..
Thanks Angello, glad you liked it. :)
Cool, back at it I see. Will be myself too here next week
Very Helpful, Thanks,
Glad it helped.
excellent video thank you
So it turns out the depth of the second bearing in my replacement LU was lower than the depth in my original LU. My original LU’s second bearing depth was 5”, and the replacement LU had the second bearing at 5-7/16”. Honestly, it probably doesn’t matter. Both bearings hold the pinion gear and it gets connected to the drive shaft. As long as you put the bottom bearing flush with the bottom of the cylinder and the second bearing below the line scribed inside the cylinder, I think you’ll be fine. Just make sure there is enough exposed hole on the side wall for gear lube to get around the outside of the second bearing.
Also, when reassembling your gears, my prop shaft came out with the clutch dog in the neutral position. It can be reinstalled the exact same way, without having to use that fancy ball bearing tool. Insert the shift lever assembly first then insert the prop shaft with the clutch dog still in the neutral position. Then just use some needle nose pliers to move the shift lever into position and screw in the pivot pin. Done, no special tools required.
By far, the hardest part of this project was pulling the shift rod bushing and the retainer ring that holds the gears in. My ring pliers slipped about 500 times before I finally got the retainer ring to come out. The shift rod bushing would not budge at all. I had to use combination of DIY slide hammer and then threaded rod puller. It took almost a whole day to do both of these things.
Very resourceful! Be sure to get those two thrust washers/bearing properly installed on the pinion before installation. The manual calls out the proper orientation
Thanks mate. Will definitely go through the orientation of those pinion components when I do the final assembly. :)
Thanks mate
"It may not be millimeter perfect, but I don't see what else we can do."
It's a difficult situation, but In my case anyway, I find that another beer often helps.
I like your thinking. :)
a question the johnson 35 hp 3 cyl engine the spare parts are the same as the normal jhonson 35hp
since I have to fix the leg
Im about to start the process of installing new forward, reverse, and pinion gear. Can you tell me if the measurements you used for the pinion bearing were good. Did you ever take the motor out and did it work like it should?
Stu I believe someone could use a caliper or depth mic prior to disassembly to get the depth readings of the bearings. I usually do this if I am not referring to a manual. also be weary of lubing bearings in a magnetic tray :S
Yes, if I had known it was going to be so hard to come by the information I definitely would have measured before removing. I just thought it would be in the manual for sure. You are right about the tray. I have a bad habit of grabbing the closest thing rather than the best thing. ;)
Good video my friend. .good day. .
Thanks Manny.
I love listening to metric measurements. It makes me feel like I'm not alone. Dentists in the US use the metric system which makes us weirdos compared to the imperial guys. They talk in inches and thousandths of inches and I'm at a loss. Give me metric or give me death!
Interesting to hear that dentists use the metric system. I imagine many high-end engineering firms do too. There are only three countries left in the world that use the imperial system so it must make it hard to work with other suppliers and manufacturers.
Engineers use both - thank God i'm EE, those poor ME's have to juggle between the two quite a bit more often.
You can say the same thing about any language. Its simply about what youre used to using.
If the World makes English the universal language then Ill gladly start using metrics. Wars are fought because of language way to often.
This question is totally unrelated to the subject of your video, but I noticed that there appears to be the inklings of a stitch and glue project written on the blackboard in your intro. What kind of boat were you thinking of making?
It was a composite glass on ply boat, but with no stitching.
@@DangarMarine I was just wondering. I plan on buidling a Glen-L Super Spartan mini hydroplane or CLC Cocktail Class Racer this winter. Both of them are stitch and glue. Of course, the wire stitching is removed after the parts have been bonded together with epoxy or resin.
Quick question: Instead of pressing in these bearings from the top, can they be mounted on the trunion gear, and installed from the bottom? I mean, since they came out that way, and no distance measuring?
You could, but you would still need to know the distance to pull them up as there aren't any stop ridges anywhere along the tube.
Good vid Stu..
Hello, I have a 2003 Mercury 150 saltwater motor and I took it for service and it came back with a rattle noise from the lower unit it does it only when in the flusher out of the water any advice please (talked to the mechanic that work on it he said the noise is normal). Thanks.
It is quite common for there to be noise when running on muffs, yes.
Okay thanks
Love your videos. Where do you get your seal kits and other Johnson parts from? Seems like you can get just about everything up there, I'm having trouble getting parts down here in Geelong.
I ordered them from MarineEngine.com
Thought so, but their website says they only sell and ship to US customers. I guess you're exception being in the trade and regular customer. Thanks for your reply.
Welcome back! Hope your trip was awesome! Quick question, I have a 1997 Johnson 115hp on a 17’ Bass boat. It starts, idles, and low speed travels great. I’m having an intermittent issue where it basically bogs down at full throttle launch and will not go on plane. I have played with different trim settings at launch, and can get it to plane out sometimes by doing this. Once on plane it goes full throttle without any issues. Any thoughts on what might be the problem? “Most often caused by” ideas? Any help is greatly appreciated.
It sounds like maybe the carbs aren't able to supply the correct amount of fuel when you open the throttle up so I would start with a carb clean and go from there.
Dangar Marine I did that once and it helped a bit but shortly began doing the same. There didn’t seem to be much to those carbs. Would it be worth rebuilding them?
Also put a service kit into the fuel pump and check the fuel bulb- but if you have the old silver fuel hose get it changed out/check the filter for plastic bits in there.
Hey Stu glad you're back man learned a lot from your channel. Had a bit of a problem maybe you can help me out. I have a 94 200hp mariner that's giving me problems compression is great on all cylinders but its overheating. I changed thermostats, impeller. Impeller housing, and head gasket. Still overheating, any idea what could be going on? Water is coming nice and strong out of tell tale btw thanks in advance
I presume when you had the head off the water jackets looked clear. Have you tried taking the thermostat housing off and seeing if water flows out of it when it is running?
Dangar Marine the water jackets weren't that bad but I ended up cleaning them up real good. I also ran the engine without thermostats and water was gushing from both holes so good on that area too. Any other ideas? Thanks for taking time to reply
Wow, such a long gap, was getting withdrawal symptoms
Back now!
Hi Stu, I got a problem with my evinrude 35 , can you give me some advice please :-)
What's up with it?
Thanks for replying Stu. I have a 30hp 2 stroke Evinrude. 1991. same layout as the one you are working on. When it's cold it starts on the button. When it's warmed up it won't start . Several minutes of turning the engine over and it might fire up long enough to get it into gear and then it's away. New plugs, carb cleaned out. primer solenoid working. Clean fuel. 125psi compression. !!Any ideas. Local workshop just shrugging their shoulders :-(
When the engine is hot is the fuel bulb still hard? Carb clean out? needle and seast replaced?
It does soften but I pump it again , but it never gets really hard anyway. carb cleaned by me, looked all good. float sitting good. Also I got an invoice to show it had a poor starting issue and workshop stripped carb in 2016 , little use since , thanks
The fuel bulb should get hard to squeeze if the fuel float , needle valve and bulb one way valves are working correctly. So you need to find that pressure leak first off. It does sound like a fuel float level/fuel flood problem though.
hello how are you
I need an extension of 5 pieces for this model you have the part number that you can give me thanks
Hi mate. You can get all the part numbers from MarineEngine.com diagrams www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1994&hp=30&model=E30RLERM
@@DangarMarine thanks my friend
About the dog clutch...Its an absolute pain in the ass to install lol
It's certainly not the most user-friendly design!
Hola, soooooooooo, I have a 1988 50 hp Johnson, it looks like it's back firing & when it does it comes out the vro pump, Please help its driving me crazy, Also give me a link to get a shirt to send a pic, I want to take a video of it but dont know how to tag you in it.
Rompe Todo is the VRO driven by the crankcase or is it electronic? What do you mean its backfiring out of the VRO? My merc vro is sucked in via pressure. I have heard that older model Johnsons had a bad problem with their VRO system and most remove and premix. But I've never owned a Johnson and couldn't tell you what years were problematic. Older Mercs had a problem with using a plastic gear that would tear up. But the metal gear VRO is a very reliable system.
jimbo gasoline, Its electronic, I run premix, the vro is disconnected electronically as I mix the oil and gas together, so my outboard runs it kinda splurges and back fire and I see the exhaust smoke come out the vro pump, I will be taking a video of it and put the link here
Rompe Todo If smoke is coming out then it sounds like a leak. Does the area where the exhaust is coming out, have a seal, gasket, or a check valve?
I would be focusing more on the reason for the backfire than the VRO pump. Backfire could be HT leads in wrong order, timing way out, carb synch issue, carbs running lean, bad reed valves etc Check each one of these first.
th-cam.com/video/j0caD33dmsA/w-d-xo.html, please watch
🔧🔧🔧
1:53 !?!?!? 🤣🤣🤣😂😂😋
Welcome home from a TERRIFIC trip. YEA!!! (Been waiting, as you know.)
You're volume is a little too low.
Interesting the volume is low, other than the very beginning if should be the same as others.