I had a Lincoln tech tell me my 80 model sa 200 was obsolete and u can’t get parts for it. That was 4 years ago. It’s on my truck today making a living. Your videos is how I got it running again!!!! Just saying thanks!!!!
Most welding supply/shops want you to buy a new welding machine. Dealers are only there to sell new or late model machines. There are a few shops that will go that extra mile for you because they know that when the time comes to buy new machines, you will buy from them.
Bought a 61 sa200, didn’t understand the generator side of things so I took it to a guy he gave me a run down. Said it had bad exciter coils, brushes and rheostat. Tried charging me 1600 for the coils only, so I found these guys and bought all those things so I hope they work out in my machine.
I buy allot of SA 200 welders and my 2 cents goes like this. Over $2,000 needs to run, weld, and put out power. Around $1,500 I will accept certain issues such as welds but doesn’t switch idle properly to high idle. Or a carb that only will run machine when choked or missing sheet metal. Under $1,000 I’m buying every complete machine I come across. And for around $500 I’ll cross state lines to get it. The one part I suggest you never buy a machine without for more than $500 is a governor. You have no way to really test anything without it and governors are very pricey when you can find them. Magneto’s really only matter if your in to that sort of thing. BW has awesome electronic ignition kits of which I have bought more than a few myself and their hard to beat. I however suggest to rig welders running both a mag and a distributor. So you can easily switch between the two if you have to. (Carry proper plug wires for each) The engine to me is absolutely the very least important part. You can find Continental F-163’s and 2’s hanging on trees. And they are probably the strongest most dependable engine made. I have ran welders personally for a living that created more smoke and blow by through the draft tube than I was creating burning 7018. The one thing you never want to do is get a machine running and welding in the presence of the seller. You will find they quickly become very sentimental to the old iron and the price will go up.
As far as I know and having many of these older machines... They had 7.9:1 compression ratio. 115-120psi is what they should have on a compression test. 140psi is in the 9.5+:1 range. Remember these machines were designed to be started by hand cranking. Early machines didn't even have a starter or a ring gear on the fly wheel.
I was just about to comment exactly what you said. I'm SUPER happy if they have 110psi. They don't need much to run well and they were designed that way for a reason.
Is there a training program with your company? I would love to learn about my welder and I would gladly volunteer my time to work for you in exchange to learn about my welder please
@bwparts hello, thank you for responding to my post.. I was like wow! Check this out.. they responded lol.. anyway very excited and appreciative of your review and invite. I finally reached out today and left a message for both Adam and Andrew. When you get a chance in your busy schedule, please reach out. Thanks again kindly
Good evening guy's, hey I really need your help with my machine. May you please reach out? I would be honored and privileged to hear from you. Thank you!
Appreciate the pointers, and you putting out new videos, but could do without the constant background music. Just my opinion (I'd rather hear the engine 😁)
I had a Lincoln tech tell me my 80 model sa 200 was obsolete and u can’t get parts for it. That was 4 years ago. It’s on my truck today making a living. Your videos is how I got it running again!!!! Just saying thanks!!!!
Your welcome, Glad we could help!!
Thanks Chuck
Most welding supply/shops want you to buy a new welding machine. Dealers are only there to sell new or late model machines. There are a few shops that will go that extra mile for you because they know that when the time comes to buy new machines, you will buy from them.
Sounds like the tech might be on COMMISSION
Bought a 61 sa200, didn’t understand the generator side of things so I took it to a guy he gave me a run down. Said it had bad exciter coils, brushes and rheostat. Tried charging me 1600 for the coils only, so I found these guys and bought all those things so I hope they work out in my machine.
I buy allot of SA 200 welders and my 2 cents goes like this. Over $2,000 needs to run, weld, and put out power. Around $1,500 I will accept certain issues such as welds but doesn’t switch idle properly to high idle.
Or a carb that only will run machine when choked or missing sheet metal. Under $1,000 I’m buying every complete machine I come across. And for around $500 I’ll cross state lines to get it. The one part I suggest you never buy a machine without for more than $500 is a governor. You have no way to really test anything without it and governors are very pricey when you can find them. Magneto’s really only matter if your in to that sort of thing. BW has awesome electronic ignition kits of which I have bought more than a few myself and their hard to beat. I however suggest to rig welders running both a mag and a distributor. So you can easily switch between the two if you have to. (Carry proper plug wires for each)
The engine to me is absolutely the very least important part. You can find Continental F-163’s and 2’s hanging on trees. And they are probably the strongest most dependable engine made. I have ran welders personally for a living that created more smoke and blow by through the draft tube than I was creating burning 7018. The one thing you never want to do is get a machine running and welding in the presence of the seller. You will find they quickly become very sentimental to the old iron and the price will go up.
I just picked up a complete 1952 short hood for $500. I hope to get it running soon
Awesome video ty for sharing your knowledge
As far as I know and having many of these older machines... They had 7.9:1 compression ratio. 115-120psi is what they should have on a compression test. 140psi is in the 9.5+:1 range. Remember these machines were designed to be started by hand cranking. Early machines didn't even have a starter or a ring gear on the fly wheel.
I was just about to comment exactly what you said. I'm SUPER happy if they have 110psi. They don't need much to run well and they were designed that way for a reason.
Is there a training program with your company? I would love to learn about my welder and I would gladly volunteer my time to work for you in exchange to learn about my welder please
Give us a call and ask for Adam or Andrew 1-888-297-2787. We’d love to have a conversation about that.
@bwparts hello, thank you for responding to my post.. I was like wow! Check this out.. they responded lol.. anyway very excited and appreciative of your review and invite. I finally reached out today and left a message for both Adam and Andrew. When you get a chance in your busy schedule, please reach out. Thanks again kindly
Good evening guy's, hey I really need your help with my machine. May you please reach out? I would be honored and privileged to hear from you. Thank you!
Cool stuff!!
Appreciate the pointers, and you putting out new videos, but could do without the constant background music. Just my opinion (I'd rather hear the engine 😁)
Noted!