This Barry from Middletown Delaware USA. I’m a 70 yr old stroke victim, my friend, you are without a wizard ! ! Since my stroke I can’t read. But to watch and see and hear , videos have made me a happy boy. I Thank You . Best wishes.
Those wires flapping in the breeze carry no risk of shorting out. You see, the relay (black box) next to the row of MOSFETs is breaking the connection for the positive lead. For those wires to go live, that relay must be engaged. That why when you have the clamps on your car battery nothing will happen until you press that button giving the booster the OK to switch on that relay. He should have explained it, though. I'm sure you were not the only one wondering why no fireworks.
Yes, the positive wire went through the relay and the negative seemed to go through a bank of mosfets, although they could have been diodes for reverse polarity protection (I didn't investigate that part too much).
1000amps, sure, no problem :) I love watching things being repaired instead of being thrown into a landfill. I'm old school when it comes to soldering so watching components being desoldered and soldered using hot air kinda' blows my mind.
Thanks 👍yes most stuff is now surface mount. I used to think it was more difficult that it is. If you have the right equipment and a bit practice it does get easier 🙂
My minds all ready been blown. There's a GB40 on Fleabay $40.00 non-working for parts... maybe could be repaired ?? If battery is completely dead, push the ! Exclamation Point Symbol Button on the Gb40
I really admire your patience... these types of repairs get under my skin a little bit when they keep fighting me. I need to try and be more like you when it comes to keeping my cool. Great video and nicely done!
Thanks 👍Sometimes I find it's better to put something away for a few days, look at something else and then come back to it if it's being really stubborn. It seems to work for me anyway.
@@BuyitFixitThe same thing applies to working on your project vehicle. 👍 Nice work repairing this booster rather than adding more plastic to some landfill that’s already full of other manufacturer-deemed ‘non-repairable’ items. It’s kinda sad how the world seemed to become a throwaway society, rather than building things that can be more easily rebuilt/reconditioned by the consumer…Remember when cell phones actually had battery covers? 😕
Excellent repair - I admire your skills, fault-finding, patience and tenacity. Also your ability to find some great Ebay 'spares or repairs' bargains. You deserve a lot more subscribers.
Awesome troubleshooting skills! I must say that a true killer would have asked about the little red button!!! A little Fifth element reference there btw. FYI all you have to do is connect the jump starter, turn it on and not use the little red button unless you are sure you have the battery connected properly. The red button bypasses the built in protections such as reverse polarity protection and delivers full amps to what you are connected to!!!
You have a particular set of skills. I admire your persistentcy ,patience, your mind follows circuitry in an excellent way ......thank you for the superb video and following along was a blast the tractor lives
Your dedication to fault finding is on another level. You couldn’t give up. You never felt defeated. By shear determination, you got it. Plug it in to see if it works and does the job. You succeeded. I was gonna buy the same model for my son at Halfords. As for NOCO, if a NOCO rep is watching this video, you could have a bucket load of returns, just because the internals are just not up to the job. A normal person, just ain’t gonna do what you did. Customers will buy, find it’s not doin it’s job, return it shop. What a DISASTER for NOCO This video is excellent. Keep up the good work. MEND IT MARK was probably watching this video and sayin, check this first then check that out next.
Thanks 👍I've done a lot better work than this one, the JVC hifi I repaired took me a bit of time, but I got that one in the end. I've fixed tons of stuff from medical ultrasound scanners, RGB lasers, Solar Inverters, to name a few 🙂👍
This sort of thing just happens, and isn't a quality problem. A chip that is faulty, installed in a product, does its job well enough to pass QC testing, then fails in the field. A manufacturer can't avoid this - what matters is their return policies. We don't know anything about this pack, but it is likely that this is a returned device. Maybe returned to Amazon, who sold it in one of their returns pallets.
Like when watching a movie where the protagonist faces challenges the audience feel it - i felt the successful repair was done myself with all the headscratches and frustrations in between! Thanks for that
I really enjoy watching you repair faulty items. I really admire the knowledge and skills you have fixing faulty items and i am gratefull that you are sharing that with us. I thoroughly enjoyed this repair and i'll be looking forward to the next one.
In my experience with multi-cell lipo chargers so long as the cells are within an acceptable range then the charger will start to charge them straight away, they normally deal with the balancing once one of the cells reaches it full charge. Another bit of electronics saved from the recycling, always enjoyable to watch you solve these issues. With regards to not selling the battery on it's own, i should imagine that's due to liability issues - in inexperienced hands things could go wrong very quickly when you have a high current lipo pack.
I think in the case of this unit it only has cell monitoring and not cell balancing. I had a issue with it a few months later as it would only charge to around 50% and one of the cells was low compared to the other cells. It just seems to stop charging if any cell hits 4.2v and doesn't charge further.
@@BuyitFixit I remember from my drone days that balancing chargers would charge the whole pack until one of the cells reaches it's target voltage. Then it puts a load on that specific cell to get the voltage down again. This is repeated until all cells are at target voltage. It will appear as if charging has stopped, when this single cell discharge for balancing is happening. I wonder if that is what you are seeing here.
I couldn't see any circuitry to do that or mention of it in the chip datasheet. There were only two mosfets controlled by the chip. One was over voltage protection and the other was under voltage if I remember, been a while since I looked at this.
I bought the Gb70 model 2000amp took a chance from John Pye auctions came in at £70…Roughly £200 in shops… It’s been brilliant holds a full charge for over a year…only slight issue the charging port has slipped inside so can only be charged through cigarette lighter port in the car…But works great Excellent work in the video ❤
Very well done! That was beyond my skill level but I certainly learned a few things and understand circuit components better now. Wanted to point out the ! button is a safety bypass for when the host battery is below a level that can be detected, the jumper should engage by itself in normal conditions.
Nice repair. The biggest drawback to these lipo jump starters is the lipo batteries themselves. They seemed only last around a year if kept fully charged. Lipos ideally will store many many times longer at 3.8 to 3.85 volts per cell. This isn't an issue on the 4 cell starter packs that are mainstream now as you can deliver around 15.2 to 15.4 volts at this storage voltage. The 3 cell packs like you fixed here aren't strong enough to jump start when kept at that 11.4-5 voltage.
I don't know. I've had the larger "1500A" GB55 model for 3-4 years now. I keep it fully charged and it's saved my arse several times now. I've even saved a stranger once and taken it to the USA to start my aunt's car which had been sitting for a year and a half so I could drive it when I visited her. I have several older cars and if I could, I'd have one for each car! The only thing I don't like about it are those stupid buttons on the top. If it gets pressed accidentally, I worry it'll turn on and drain itself so that it's no good when I need it in an emergency. So I still carry jump leads with me at all times.
I've had my GB70 2000A about 5 years now always kept in truck even in winter, I haven't had to use it on my current vehicle 2014 f150 that I've had 2 years now. but I have used it around the farm even on tractors. I charge it around every 5 or so jump starts.
haha I loved the contrast from spending hours on diagnosing a tiny pcb and then going to your tractor 😄 i love your content. your way of diagnosing and fixing electronics really helps me to improve my own skills. im actually surprised, that i wouldve probably had enough knowledge for this fix, but i am lacking a proper way for a pcb diagnosis. looking forward for your content! cheers
@@BuyitFixit Merhaba altyazı Türkçe dil desteği yok. Lütfen lütfen Türkçe dil desteği olsun. Sizi hayranlıkla izliyorum. İşlerinizde başarılar dilerim. .................. @BuyitFixit Hello, there is no Turkish language support for subtitles. Please, please have Turkish language support. I watch you with admiration. I wish you success in your business.
Brilliant repair from start to finish. Thanks to you I now understand much better what's going on inside my NOCO and so happy that mine worked right out of the box. Your a good man
Hi! I have one of the larger Noco's and it's a wonderful device. It has save my neck a number of times. So I was very keen to see just what is inside these things.
Very interesting fault finding. I’ve got the same booster which I have used a couple of times. Very helpful description of what does what. Hope I never have to delve inside it.
Was happy to see it was only half way through the video when you were putting the battery back in.. knew there'd be something more interesting to this one. I wonder what the actual boost amount is on one of these. I thought Noco were a reputable brand but appears not
Thanks. It was a fairly long video but I felt if anyone has a similar unit and wanted to rebuild their pack they now know how to. I had to cut loads from the video too. The "first cut" was and hour and a half which was far too long...
And another good repair. You do a very good job of finding faults that even the manufacturers do not know about. Call to the manufacturer; can I get a battery replacement? Manufacturer said; No just chuck it into the bin. Hobbyist says; Oh, I will fix it then. Manufacturer says; no, no, no! Hobbyist says; I have already fixed it. Manufacturer says; How did you do that? Hobbyist says; I do not give out any secrets. Repairs are good for products that even some manufacturers do not know about.
Thanks 👍I'm not sure if you saw the FLIR thermal camera video, or the Solar inverter I repaired and then I needed a service code which they wouldn't give me ("no password, no problem" video). That was literally the manufacturer in both cases saying sorry..chuck it. So I fixed both and gave them a piece of my mind. The videos are on my channel and I put the emails I sent and received from them in the videos too 😂😂😂
You can save a lot of time and frustration when trying to locate a mechanically flaky joint by using a small insulated probe instead of your finger. This allows you to apply pressure to a very small area. It's amazing how many faults can be found with a good visual inspection and poking with a stick. 😉
This episode was like watching an explosive tech defuse an IED. On the edge of my seat and cringing. Whenever I have to work with lithium "spicy pillows" I keep a sand bucket with a metal lid near so I can ditch them if they start burning. A bucket of water works well also to buy some time to get the flaming spicy pillows out the door before they smoke up your shop.
Your tenacity to get this fixed is admirable. I prolly would have given up long before even finding the faulty areas of the PCB. Well done! I have this exact same boost pack, and have had no problems with it. I know where to look if I have problems in the future. Do you suspect that original nick where the positive lead was pinched could have had anything to do with the failure? Cheers!
This may be the answer why some of my 20v tool batteries wont charge, even after fully charging the 18650 cells individually. Enjoyed every minute of this video, thank you so much.
@@BuyitFixit I was delighted that noco didn't sell the battery pack cause I really wanted to see how that pack was put together. I know it was a lot of work for you but what a great video this is. Amazing how something so small can start a tractor. Have a great week and see you next Saturday.
If the batteries are lithium ion they can go flat if left in tools and the voltage drops below a threshold and the charger can’t “see” it. Put 12volts across the battery’s plus to plus , minus to minus for 15-30 seconds.
Mick I don’t know how I missed this one, strange but anyway fantastic repair, goes to show how easy things fail for our benefit lol Thanks for sharing 😊
By the way, it detects automatically when to go into boost mode - pressing the boost button pits in to manual mode and energizes the 12V output. If you have a flat battery you can just connect the battery and have it detect the connection (same would apply when you connected it to the starter).
Just a tip when you are doing something as fiddly as that i recommend putting tape on the negative soldered end just to make sure you do not short. Easy done.
Great informative video as usual. You are certainly a braver man than me. I use these type of Lipo batteries on my radio control aircraft and I've seen so many catch fire due to damage, or people attempting repairs to them. I personally would not have attempted this, personally if I were to do this I would have used a spot welder for battery terminals rather than solder, charged and balanced the battery using my Lipo charger.
I recently bought a little spot welder, there's not a lot in it apart from a similar pouch cell and a bank of mosfets. I think soldering was probably ok as I was conscious of the pack temperature and the packs barely took any heat, and the originals were also soldered. Thanks for the advice, appreciate you taking the time to comment 👍
@@BuyitFixit It's totally normal to solder does Lipo batteries cells, they are not 185650 cells, does you normally spot weld, but i also have soldered them (18650) to get a 24v battery pack, and also went great.
I too have soldered 18650 although it's not best practice to do so. I recently ordered a small spot welder, which is nothing more than one of those pouch cells and an array of mosfets.
there aint nothing wrong with solder, heavy guage should be used to handle high currents ... further to balance them prior to soldering, just connect them in parallel, they will equalise
Well, Mick, that one slapped you around a little, but you came back fighting and won the fight. I thought a cold solder joint was the villain. Well done.
I have one of the larger Noco's, very interesting to see the guts, I admire your fault finding skills, great fix & managing to find replacement cells👍 These are a very useful gadget, I charge mine after each use & once every couple of months, just to maintain the battery & make sure it is ready when needed!
It is a mis-conception that you should keep lithium batteries fully charged. This is TRUE for lead acid chemistry due to sulphation. But Lithium cells actually last the longest if you keep them around 80% or less. This is also why their storage voltage is kept low. The industry charges these cells to their near theoretical limits due to squeezing max power at the cost of life time. Because that's what the public wants, maximum run time. However, in critical applications such as medical and military, lithium cells are always "undercharged" for max reliability. And your car will still start just fine! 🙂
Thanks, the supplied manual says nothing about battery maintenance, I just assumed it would be the same as my old jump pack that used SLA batteries.@@Runco990
Yes, that's the idea and why I left a fair bit of the battery re-build in the video. I guess in the future there will be a lot of people with a similar situation once the cells start failing.
3 yıl gibi bir sürede piller kapasitesinin özelliğini kaybedecek yeni bataryaların değiştirmesi kaçınılmaz olacak. Maalesef Noco servisi batarya değişimi yapmıyor yeni ürün satmaya çalışıyor. ...... In a period of 3 years, batteries will lose their capacity and it will be inevitable to replace them with new batteries. Unfortunately, Noco service does not replace the battery and is trying to sell new products.
Merhaba batarya değişiminiz ve arıza çözümünüz harika. Bu paylaşım hiçbir yerde yok. İlk defa sizden izledim. Çok teşekkür ederim. 👏👏👏 Pravo İşlerinizde başarılar dilerim. Saygılarımla.
I've had my Nocona gb40 for approximately 10 years, its been used a bunch for jump-starts as well as charging other items and it is still going strong! When it dies, I'll definitely buy another Noco branded jump pack!
Thanks 👍Yes, I was hoping the cells were ok when I bought it and it had some other problem, which it turned out it also had 😂 The black and red wires are isolated from the pack by the black relay on the board, so they only have power when the main board activates the relay😉
I've got the same unit. It's not 1000 Amps, dispite its claims. It starts small petrol engines without any issues, but it won't turn over the 2.2L diesel in my Land Rover. Nice to see what's inside though.
Nice. Yes I don't believe 1000 amps either, although I would have thought it would have done a Land Rover though? It did the tractor which is a 4L. It's the only thing I've tested it on so I guess time will tell.
@@BuyitFixit Mine has now stopped outputting any real current, as it won't turn over a 999cc 3 cylinder Toyota Aygo. I guess I'll be dropping £36 on a set of new batteries. At least I've your helpful video to help me carry out the repair.
@johnnodge4327 After making the video I also tried it on my wifes discovery 4 after the battery went flat. It wouldn't start that either (perhaps the battery was too flat) I think they are just a glorified power bank.
Yet another cracking video. Proper diagnostic skills, unlike some other channels although still enjoy watching them, I can honestly say yours is the only channel I look forward to. I have one of those but it's the 1500 and that starts my Citreon Relay L4 H3 from a totally flat battery, so flat had to use the key to get in as the fob wouldn't open the door locks, turns out the battery was faulty from new. Keep them coming.
The "C rating" is just the current the cells gave to handle for a long term (all capacity at once) discharge. It comes from the internal resistance and the ability to dissipate heat. For shorter bursts you may go higher with the current, you just have to monitor the temperature and you get limited time. It is all just about the power dissipation, heat generation and the ability to handle the heat, both by thermal capacity, as well as the external cooling. The "1000A" rating is just the current it is able to electrically deliver, aka the internal resistance. Normally for starting you need the peak current only to get the starter moving, so for about 50ms or so, so short enough to allow the cells to handle it. Then to crank the engine fast enough to start it, you need the ability to maintain voltage (minimum in the 7V ballpark), but the current uses to drop to the 200A ballpark, low enough to cover the 10..15 seconds cranking.
Very well done. The right pad of C12 (36:48) and the left pad of C6 both looked poor, but maybe an illusion. 1000A for 2.5ms, easily enough to jump start a six-year-old's Mercedes GLC 635 AMG. Good to see that China Airways is complying with dangerous goods regulations.
I bought the exact same jumper pack when I had problems starting my car. It really worked well, I got fed up constantly jumping the car so bought a new car battery, which solved the non starting. I charged the NOCO up put it in it's pouch and plopped it into ny glove compartment thinking it would come in handy for jumping cars or the flash light. It was forgotten for a few months until I wanted to use it on a neighbours car, it showed 1 bar and refused to jump anything, the flash light was very dim. So I thought I would put it on charge and a big no go, the light flashed 1 bar and didn't go up after 2 hours charge. I know I couldn't fix it, but opened the back just in case it was something obvious wrong. When unscrewing the back the case sprung open, the battery had puffed up so much, the pressure had pushed the back open. I didn't fancy playing about with LIPO batteries as they are volatile to say the least, I took the NOCO to a local recyclers to be exposed with. So if you have one of these and put it in your glove compartment,, take it out regularly and charge it. I dread to think how many of these chargers are forgotten in glove compartments or stuffed in the car boot, and they are puffing up ready to ignite in a ball of flames.
Same hapened to me, I bought it to start my car, got fed up using this every morning, so bought a new car battery. I charged the NOCO up put it in it's pouch, threw it in my glove compartment and forgot it. After a few months, my sons car would not start, the NOCO was flat and it never charged up again, took it to bits and the battery had blown up so much it was pressing hard against the case. In the battery recycling centre it went, If I have a flat battery in the future I'll either charge the car battery or use jump leads maybe even buy a good old fashioned lead acid jump box
Thanks for the great video. Also awesome for learning a bit about PCB and soldering. I have been using NOCO for a long time and will no longer use any other booster. Great products. Note: The boost mode is a kind of override that even disables a safety function. This mode is basically not necessary for jump starting.
@@andymouse You probably don't have vehicles sitting idle for weeks/months without being used. My tow vehicle can sit unused for 3 or 4 months at a time and it was becoming a pain have to lug the battery to it each time its needed. I built my own 4 cell pack which can put out a genuine 900+amps without failing after its first use.
I have to admit - that was slightly anxiety inducing seeing the working practices on lithium cells that can output multiple hundred amps ... I would have used a lot more caption tape for sure. :) Very nice fix though.
@@awesomed007 The laptop and phone ones are can deliver much less current and are protected by a BMS - these are not. If you short them, you get short circuit currents of 200-400A (more with bigger starter packs).
@@TylerDurden-pk5km I have recycled 10000 lithium cells. Not as powerful as these.Few times I shorted 1.2kw packs, they deliver maybe few hundred amps, nickel got red hot and arced a centremetre off ending the short. A car battery can give 1000amp if you short it. What we should fear is if a lithium catches fire internally. Even a mobile phone battery is as dangerous as the lithium combusts same irrespective of what type of pack. Now regards this battery booster batteries. I think they are 15C rated... A give away is the noco 15X label. So 15x 2.2 amp is 33 amp output but yes, in a short, some batteries will give more but to my mind, your fear and anxiety is too much. Don't believe that these are 600 amp batteries that are required to start your car, they are not. They merely supply current to mosfets on the board that up the amps to anything between 200-1000amp depending on manufacturer honesty. Beware of lithium for fires, even a small low c rating is dangerous as any. Hope this helps you reduce anxiety. Goodluck.
@@awesomed007 I cant vouch for these specific ones, but test of these starters by others show Amps in the range of 200-800A (depending on model). Usually they are NOT protected by mosfets, they have reverse protection diodes and usually a relay and apart from that - directly connected to the lithium cells. Mobile phone batteries have a protection board within the batterie assembly, so as long as one is not opening the assembly and shorting the tabs of the batterie pouch directly - it should no be possible to cause runaway. You can look for example at the channel of "project farm" to see tests of these that include measurement of output amps.
Otay plumbers tinning flux plus a little bit of light sanding makes the solder stick almost instantly to the battery tabs. The tabs are optimuzed for spot welding rather than soldering so a more agressive flux is needed. ❤
Nice repair, even though I was dreading you accidently shorting the new cells. Also soldering over them might not be a super idea. Higher melting point unleaded solder might be better for high current battery connections but you also don't want to much temp in the cells while soldering.
@@dubmob151 lost in translation, what I meant is, that internals of spot welders have these high output tracks made of such solder, internal connections, etc
Thanks for the video. As always, I learned a lot. I was thinking buying one of these Noco boosters but seeing how it is made inside, I do not think I will buy one; components are too much squeezed together without proper safety space around.
Yes, I don't think they are very good. After I tried it on the tractor my wifes landrover went flat and it didn't turn that over so I had to resort to the old jump leads and a spare battery. Someone else in the comments said their unit wouldn't start a landrover either.
those two terminals so close to contact with the new batteries! 😰 you are much braver than i am my friend. i am trying to build a jump pack from scratch, learned a lot from your video. I thought it needed 4 cells but 3 also works it seems.
Thanks 👍If you mean the red and black wires, they are isolated via the black relay on the board, so if they touch nothing would happen. Good luck with you're jump pack 🙂
The positioning of the scissors and the other tool (i don't know the english name for) at 18:00 got me holding my breath for almost a minute! Damn! Nice repair but keep it safer next time.
I have one of these boost packs but not sure if its best to keep it charged or let it discharge on a regular basis to stop this happening with the batteris, could someone advise on this please, excellent video even though i wouldn't attempt it 👍
Thanks, I'd just keep it charged up. It's pretty much the same batteries that are in mobile phones and laptops. You don't need to run them flat and fully charge them like you had to do with old battery technologies like NiCad batteries.
Best boost pack ever. I had the GB70 fail out of warranty, unfortunately this video wasn’t around then but the manufacturer replaced it at 50% cost which I thought was very fair.
You're a lot braver than I am - the chances of shorting out the cells, resulting in violent self-dismantling, is far too high! (Also I'm clumsy...) Well done!
At One point I wondered if replacing the contacts in the plug might have been the trick. Seemingly did 2 things at once, however no such luck. Yet another great video and fix. Good to see it tested on the Tractor. My Big, jumper, inflator, light has packed up. Been wondering about getting something like this for ages, they just seem SO small. Will have to maybe get one now though 🙂
Thanks 👍I'm not too sure how great these are, after making the video I needed to use it on my wifes landrover and it didn't do a good job of starting it. Ended up having to resort to using my car and a set of decent jump leads so perhaps I'd do a little more research before buying one.
@@BuyitFixit Thanks for the advice, I think from what I can find, as with most things. You get what you pay for. Can be such a useful bit of kit though. Ideally would need a jump starter and a pack to run my Ham radio on, that would be KEWL, unfortunately boosting and running are 2 different jobs.
These things are great and useful - but cheaply made to be consumer disposable junk which is sad. but you were able to rescue one out of the bin with a LOT of skill. nice!
I got the same one. When i was checking reviews for it people complained that you can't leave it in the car because the cells would expand because of the heat.
Great video. I have a jump starter that is losing charge. It drops about 15% over a few days. I suspect the battery must be buggered as it is almost 4 years old and on,y used a few times, and I have always tried to charge it every month or two.
Thanks, if it's the same model as this one it seems they have no cell balancing, only cell monitoring. So what happens is that if one cell doesn't get fully charged, and the effect seems to get worse over time. The device stops charging when any cell gets to 4.2V, and one of the other cells may only be at 3V, which causes problems like what you have.
Ha, you have a tractor. Dude, that's so country! You sound like a city boy, and you repair complicated electronics. The tractor was a total surprise. Well done 'mate'. :)
Another one saved ...... That's a nice tractor , the Case IH dealer is right up the road from me , and the John Deere dealer is another 3/8 th of a mile farther , Easy to access JD parts like that ............. Take care Mon Ami ...
Thanks Cajun 👍The tractor may feature in another video, as after making this one I received an email from the other side of the world,asking for help with a faulty dashboard...
I enjoyed watching you troubleshoot the problem so much I became a subscriber. I know you had to purchase some expensive parts to do the repair, and I don't think you purchased anything you did not need. It would be very nice to see a list of the costs involved in the repair, and maybe some links to the parts you purchased. Thank you Dennis O.
Cool vid bro! You earned your battery pack indeed. Good job fixing it and not sending it to landfill. I’ve got a few things in various stages of “fixed” laying around my place! 👍
Good job well done, a pleasure to watch! And the feeling of getting such things repaired is so satisfactory - worth much more than these much too expensive nocos cost. At least that is my experience from working in a repair cafe or tinkering for myself...😊
A great item to have working up in the North-East at winter time. From a guy in the less frozen South-East. According to TH-cam's Weather Guru Ryan Hall . . .you may be digging that tractor out this winter . Great fix 👍
No, I've not tried but 2.1A output on a USB isn't something out of the ordinary, and pretty standard these days. Obviously it won't charge as quickly as a USB-C PD charger if your phone supports it.
Yes I would like to see more of this. And submit a request: it would be great if you did not use time lapse, details are always missed when you assemble (or disassemble) this quickly. I think the motto should be: if its worth showing at all its worth showing in real time.
Thanks 👍unfortunately the video would have ended up being about 3 hours long. I ended up cutting a load from it and speeding bits up and it was still 1hr 30 long. A lot of people these days have a short attention span and wouldn't have sat through me rebuilding the cell so I sped that bit up a bit. Thanks for commenting 👍
hi i have the noco gb150 it blew a diode on the board because the battery go to low and the charger would not charge it i added a new diode and recharged it works fine now there are a couple of YT channels that repair these it is a common problem blown diode and faulty battery packs cheers from down under
Great video! Your diagnostic method is pretty solid. Way to go sourcing IC components from boards of like technology and function. Can you share the solder and desoldering tools you use?
So many comments I didn’t read them all so excuse me if this is a repeat note. I have the same charger and found the flashlight function has a design flaw. The touch switch is easily turned on when bumped especially when stored away in its sack. After watching this I will take mine apart and physically decouple the switch for the light to prevent accidental discharge from a bump of the pack. The light is fairly insignificant and a flashlight will do instead.
Great job, stuck to your guns and followed it through to the end! Don’t think I would have had the patience! What’s your day job, be interesting to know.
Nice fix! 👍 It was probably faulty from the beginning, but owner perhaps never tried charging it until it went flat. After that the cells were slowly drained by the electronics from just sitting and eventually got ruined. A shame it wasn't sold earlier so the cells would have been savable. For a budget-jumpstart any high C rated 3S-4S RC battery will work just fine, and they have no electronics to cause vampire drain either.
You put together an interesting video. This is not something I'm likely to ever do, mainly because I do not understand how the interior of these electronics work so I would not do this. But, you put together an interest in enough video that I subscribe to it. Thank you very much.
Hi, liked and subscribed loved this video and it's content. Simply love the way you walk through fault finding, it's fantastic. I bought one of these of ebay some time ago and it won't switch on so you have inspired me to take a look to see if I can figure it out. Please could you advise what the cleaner is you use. I heard you say IP . Would thst simply be isopropyl alcohol? The board I have has quite a bit of white on it in various places, I suspect maybe water damage. Would water do that please? Can that staining be cleaned off with something? Thanking you again, any help would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the good work. Look forward to more of your videos.
Thanks, yes isopropyl alcohol 🙂I've got a fair back catalogue of videos, some are quite interesting especially when manufacturers were unwilling to help and I had to resort to things like reverse engineering software (solar inverter) or altering the circuit (FLIR thermal camera repair). I also looked at a Medical ultrasound scanner, unlocked and ton of hidden features and made it run Doom 😂😂
This Barry from Middletown Delaware USA. I’m a 70 yr old stroke victim, my friend, you are without a wizard ! ! Since my stroke I can’t read. But to watch and see and hear , videos have made me a happy boy. I Thank You . Best wishes.
Thanks Barry 👍
Oh look a big Clive tribute act. 😂
@@BuyitFixit different but same. Listening made me feel like I got my balls back. Ty
I couldn't take my eyes off the thick black and red cables floating perilously close to each other. You're a braver man than I........
Those wires flapping in the breeze carry no risk of shorting out. You see, the relay (black box) next to the row of MOSFETs is breaking the connection for the positive lead. For those wires to go live, that relay must be engaged. That why when you have the clamps on your car battery nothing will happen until you press that button giving the booster the OK to switch on that relay. He should have explained it, though. I'm sure you were not the only one wondering why no fireworks.
It was fine, they were isolated via the relay and only get powered if the relay gets energised.
@@BuyitFixit Were both ground and plus isolated/switched?
Yes, the positive wire went through the relay and the negative seemed to go through a bank of mosfets, although they could have been diodes for reverse polarity protection (I didn't investigate that part too much).
@@TylerDurden-pk5km Doesn't matter, BOTH poles must have a complete circuit for any current to flow.
1000amps, sure, no problem :) I love watching things being repaired instead of being thrown into a landfill. I'm old school when it comes to soldering so watching components being desoldered and soldered using hot air kinda' blows my mind.
Thanks 👍yes most stuff is now surface mount. I used to think it was more difficult that it is. If you have the right equipment and a bit practice it does get easier 🙂
My minds all ready been blown. There's a GB40 on Fleabay $40.00 non-working for parts... maybe could be repaired ?? If battery is completely dead, push the ! Exclamation Point Symbol Button on the Gb40
I really admire your patience... these types of repairs get under my skin a little bit when they keep fighting me. I need to try and be more like you when it comes to keeping my cool. Great video and nicely done!
Thanks 👍Sometimes I find it's better to put something away for a few days, look at something else and then come back to it if it's being really stubborn. It seems to work for me anyway.
@@BuyitFixit I agree 100%! Thank you for sharing the video!
@@BuyitFixitThe same thing applies to working on your project vehicle. 👍
Nice work repairing this booster rather than adding more plastic to some landfill that’s already full of other manufacturer-deemed ‘non-repairable’ items. It’s kinda sad how the world seemed to become a throwaway society, rather than building things that can be more easily rebuilt/reconditioned by the consumer…Remember when cell phones actually had battery covers? 😕
Excellent repair - I admire your skills, fault-finding, patience and tenacity. Also your ability to find some great Ebay 'spares or repairs' bargains. You deserve a lot more subscribers.
Thanks so much 😊👍
Yes completely agree... unbelievable!!!!!! For me one of the best and interesting channel on youtube!
@@mazafreno Thanks 😊👍
Awesome troubleshooting skills! I must say that a true killer would have asked about the little red button!!! A little Fifth element reference there btw. FYI all you have to do is connect the jump starter, turn it on and not use the little red button unless you are sure you have the battery connected properly. The red button bypasses the built in protections such as reverse polarity protection and delivers full amps to what you are connected to!!!
Thanks👍 yes a couple of people mentioned about the button. Guess I should have read the instructions 😂😂
You have a particular set of skills. I admire your persistentcy ,patience, your mind follows circuitry in an excellent way ......thank you for the superb video and following along was a blast the tractor lives
Thank you very much Richard 👍
Your dedication to fault finding is on another level. You couldn’t give up. You never felt defeated. By shear determination, you got it. Plug it in to see if it works and does the job. You succeeded. I was gonna buy the same model for my son at Halfords. As for NOCO, if a NOCO rep is watching this video, you could have a bucket load of returns, just because the internals are just not up to the job. A normal person, just ain’t gonna do what you did. Customers will buy, find it’s not doin it’s job, return it shop. What a DISASTER for NOCO This video is excellent. Keep up the good work. MEND IT MARK was probably watching this video and sayin, check this first then check that out next.
Thanks 👍I've done a lot better work than this one, the JVC hifi I repaired took me a bit of time, but I got that one in the end. I've fixed tons of stuff from medical ultrasound scanners, RGB lasers, Solar Inverters, to name a few 🙂👍
This sort of thing just happens, and isn't a quality problem. A chip that is faulty, installed in a product, does its job well enough to pass QC testing, then fails in the field. A manufacturer can't avoid this - what matters is their return policies. We don't know anything about this pack, but it is likely that this is a returned device. Maybe returned to Amazon, who sold it in one of their returns pallets.
Like when watching a movie where the protagonist faces challenges the audience feel it - i felt the successful repair was done myself with all the headscratches and frustrations in between! Thanks for that
Thanks 👍Glad you enjoyed it 🙂
I really enjoy watching you repair faulty items. I really admire the knowledge and skills you have fixing faulty items and i am gratefull that you are sharing that with us. I thoroughly enjoyed this repair and i'll be looking forward to the next one.
Thanks Marc, much appreciated 👍
Well done as an electronics guy you are braver than me mate.
Thanks 🙂👍
In my experience with multi-cell lipo chargers so long as the cells are within an acceptable range then the charger will start to charge them straight away, they normally deal with the balancing once one of the cells reaches it full charge. Another bit of electronics saved from the recycling, always enjoyable to watch you solve these issues. With regards to not selling the battery on it's own, i should imagine that's due to liability issues - in inexperienced hands things could go wrong very quickly when you have a high current lipo pack.
I think in the case of this unit it only has cell monitoring and not cell balancing. I had a issue with it a few months later as it would only charge to around 50% and one of the cells was low compared to the other cells. It just seems to stop charging if any cell hits 4.2v and doesn't charge further.
@@BuyitFixit I remember from my drone days that balancing chargers would charge the whole pack until one of the cells reaches it's target voltage. Then it puts a load on that specific cell to get the voltage down again. This is repeated until all cells are at target voltage. It will appear as if charging has stopped, when this single cell discharge for balancing is happening. I wonder if that is what you are seeing here.
I couldn't see any circuitry to do that or mention of it in the chip datasheet. There were only two mosfets controlled by the chip. One was over voltage protection and the other was under voltage if I remember, been a while since I looked at this.
A man of patience, who also seems to run a farm in spare time!
Yes, something like that 😂😂😂👍
Great job !!! Inspired me to attempt to repair mine..However I do have some questions
@@EduardoCervantes-f3l Fire away, I'll see if I can help.
I'm pretty much don't know anything about picking the cells
I love it when you go from soldering surface-mount components that need a microscope to see to "and let's start a tractor".
😂😂😂Or fixing a solar inverter, and then having to reverse engineer their software..
I bought the Gb70 model 2000amp took a chance from John Pye auctions came in at £70…Roughly £200 in shops…
It’s been brilliant holds a full charge for over a year…only slight issue the charging port has slipped inside so can only be charged through cigarette lighter port in the car…But works great
Excellent work in the video ❤
Thanks Mike 👍
Very well done! That was beyond my skill level but I certainly learned a few things and understand circuit components better now. Wanted to point out the ! button is a safety bypass for when the host battery is below a level that can be detected, the jumper should engage by itself in normal conditions.
Thanks 👍yes someone else also mentioned that. I should have read the manual 😂😂😂
Very satisfying to be able to fix something that someone has discarded. Nice job!
Thank you 🙂👍
Nice repair. The biggest drawback to these lipo jump starters is the lipo batteries themselves. They seemed only last around a year if kept fully charged. Lipos ideally will store many many times longer at 3.8 to 3.85 volts per cell. This isn't an issue on the 4 cell starter packs that are mainstream now as you can deliver around 15.2 to 15.4 volts at this storage voltage. The 3 cell packs like you fixed here aren't strong enough to jump start when kept at that 11.4-5 voltage.
Thanks 👍and interesting to know about the 4 cell packs. This is the first one I've worked on.
They also don't like freezing temps or really high temps so don't keep in the car. Except that's what most people would want it for.
Good idea. I've got a battery bank for my solar and I know that they don't like temps of zero or less.
I don't know. I've had the larger "1500A" GB55 model for 3-4 years now. I keep it fully charged and it's saved my arse several times now. I've even saved a stranger once and taken it to the USA to start my aunt's car which had been sitting for a year and a half so I could drive it when I visited her. I have several older cars and if I could, I'd have one for each car! The only thing I don't like about it are those stupid buttons on the top. If it gets pressed accidentally, I worry it'll turn on and drain itself so that it's no good when I need it in an emergency. So I still carry jump leads with me at all times.
I've had my GB70 2000A about 5 years now always kept in truck even in winter, I haven't had to use it on my current vehicle 2014 f150 that I've had 2 years now. but I have used it around the farm even on tractors. I charge it around every 5 or so jump starts.
haha I loved the contrast from spending hours on diagnosing a tiny pcb and then going to your tractor 😄 i love your content. your way of diagnosing and fixing electronics really helps me to improve my own skills. im actually surprised, that i wouldve probably had enough knowledge for this fix, but i am lacking a proper way for a pcb diagnosis. looking forward for your content! cheers
Thank You 👍🙂
Once again I watched the whole video, didn’t understand a word you were talking about but just addictive for some reason, nice one, enjoyed it 👍
Thanks👍Sorry about that, perhaps subtitles may help?
@@BuyitFixit no what I meant was I know nothing about electronics but still found it fascinating
@MD-gc4xq Oh right 😂😂😂😂😂👍
@@BuyitFixit The North-East accent is never a problem.
@@BuyitFixit
Merhaba altyazı Türkçe dil desteği yok. Lütfen lütfen Türkçe dil desteği olsun. Sizi hayranlıkla izliyorum.
İşlerinizde başarılar dilerim.
..................
@BuyitFixit
Hello, there is no Turkish language support for subtitles. Please, please have Turkish language support. I watch you with admiration.
I wish you success in your business.
Very impressive troubleshooting ! The NOCO is anice unit that can be used on a dead battery ! Nice to see it resurrected !
Thank you kindly sir 👍
Brilliant repair from start to finish. Thanks to you I now understand much better what's going on inside my NOCO and so happy that mine worked right out of the box. Your a good man
Thanks and thank you for your kind comments 👍
Hi! I have one of the larger Noco's and it's a wonderful device. It has save my neck a number of times.
So I was very keen to see just what is inside these things.
Nice 👍Well I don't think anyone else has stripped one down this far, or if at all, so hopefully it didn't disappoint 🙂
What a pro...
Scarey repair...perfect for Halloween ...but an excellent result...
I certainly won't be trying that repair at home..!
Ha, I wouldn't say pro, more of tinkerer 😂😂😂
Very interesting fault finding. I’ve got the same booster which I have used a couple of times. Very helpful description of what does what. Hope I never have to delve inside it.
Thanks 👍
Was happy to see it was only half way through the video when you were putting the battery back in.. knew there'd be something more interesting to this one. I wonder what the actual boost amount is on one of these. I thought Noco were a reputable brand but appears not
Thanks. It was a fairly long video but I felt if anyone has a similar unit and wanted to rebuild their pack they now know how to. I had to cut loads from the video too. The "first cut" was and hour and a half which was far too long...
@@BuyitFixithaha I'm sure many of us would have watched it still 😁
And another good repair. You do a very good job of finding faults that even the manufacturers do not know about. Call to the manufacturer; can I get a battery replacement? Manufacturer said; No just chuck it into the bin. Hobbyist says; Oh, I will fix it then. Manufacturer says; no, no, no! Hobbyist says; I have already fixed it. Manufacturer says; How did you do that? Hobbyist says; I do not give out any secrets. Repairs are good for products that even some manufacturers do not know about.
Thanks 👍I'm not sure if you saw the FLIR thermal camera video, or the Solar inverter I repaired and then I needed a service code which they wouldn't give me ("no password, no problem" video). That was literally the manufacturer in both cases saying sorry..chuck it. So I fixed both and gave them a piece of my mind. The videos are on my channel and I put the emails I sent and received from them in the videos too 😂😂😂
You can save a lot of time and frustration when trying to locate a mechanically flaky joint by using a small insulated probe instead of your finger. This allows you to apply pressure to a very small area.
It's amazing how many faults can be found with a good visual inspection and poking with a stick. 😉
Thanks for the tip 👍
This episode was like watching an explosive tech defuse an IED. On the edge of my seat and cringing. Whenever I have to work with lithium "spicy pillows" I keep a sand bucket with a metal lid near so I can ditch them if they start burning. A bucket of water works well also to buy some time to get the flaming spicy pillows out the door before they smoke up your shop.
Thanks for the advice 👍
Your tenacity to get this fixed is admirable. I prolly would have given up long before even finding the faulty areas of the PCB. Well done! I have this exact same boost pack, and have had no problems with it. I know where to look if I have problems in the future.
Do you suspect that original nick where the positive lead was pinched could have had anything to do with the failure? Cheers!
Thanks👍I think the pinched lead was just incidental and nothing to do with the failure.
This may be the answer why some of my 20v tool batteries wont charge, even after fully charging the 18650 cells individually. Enjoyed every minute of this video, thank you so much.
Thanks Rory👍I wasn't too sure how this one would go, as a fair chunk was rebuilding a new cell pack. Thanks for the feedback 🙂👍
@@BuyitFixit I was delighted that noco didn't sell the battery pack cause I really wanted to see how that pack was put together. I know it was a lot of work for you but what a great video this is. Amazing how something so small can start a tractor. Have a great week and see you next Saturday.
If the batteries are lithium ion they can go flat if left in tools and the voltage drops below a threshold and the charger can’t “see” it. Put 12volts across the battery’s plus to plus , minus to minus for 15-30 seconds.
Excellent.
The battery delivery is crazy. I'm surprised the posties vans don't ignite..
Thanks 👍Yes I was surprised at the lack of safety concern. That's China I guess for you.
Mick I don’t know how I missed this one, strange but anyway fantastic repair, goes to show how easy things fail for our benefit lol
Thanks for sharing 😊
Thanks 👍
By the way, it detects automatically when to go into boost mode - pressing the boost button pits in to manual mode and energizes the 12V output. If you have a flat battery you can just connect the battery and have it detect the connection (same would apply when you connected it to the starter).
Thanks 👍yes a couple of other people mentioned the same. I didn't read the manual 😂
Just a tip
when you are doing something as fiddly as that i recommend putting tape on the negative soldered end just to make sure you do not short. Easy done.
Thanks 👍
Great informative video as usual. You are certainly a braver man than me. I use these type of Lipo batteries on my radio control aircraft and I've seen so many catch fire due to damage, or people attempting repairs to them. I personally would not have attempted this, personally if I were to do this I would have used a spot welder for battery terminals rather than solder, charged and balanced the battery using my Lipo charger.
I recently bought a little spot welder, there's not a lot in it apart from a similar pouch cell and a bank of mosfets. I think soldering was probably ok as I was conscious of the pack temperature and the packs barely took any heat, and the originals were also soldered. Thanks for the advice, appreciate you taking the time to comment 👍
@@BuyitFixit It's totally normal to solder does Lipo batteries cells, they are
not 185650 cells, does you normally spot weld, but i also have soldered
them (18650) to get a 24v battery pack, and also went great.
I too have soldered 18650 although it's not best practice to do so. I recently ordered a small spot welder, which is nothing more than one of those pouch cells and an array of mosfets.
there aint nothing wrong with solder, heavy guage should be used to handle high currents ... further to balance them prior to soldering, just connect them in parallel, they will equalise
Well, Mick, that one slapped you around a little, but you came back fighting and won the fight. I thought a cold solder joint was the villain. Well done.
Yes 😂😂😂got there eventually 👍
I have one of the larger Noco's, very interesting to see the guts, I admire your fault finding skills, great fix & managing to find replacement cells👍
These are a very useful gadget, I charge mine after each use & once every couple of months, just to maintain the battery & make sure it is ready when needed!
Thanks for the tips!
It is a mis-conception that you should keep lithium batteries fully charged. This is TRUE for lead acid chemistry due to sulphation. But Lithium cells actually last the longest if you keep them around 80% or less. This is also why their storage voltage is kept low. The industry charges these cells to their near theoretical limits due to squeezing max power at the cost of life time. Because that's what the public wants, maximum run time. However, in critical applications such as medical and military, lithium cells are always "undercharged" for max reliability. And your car will still start just fine! 🙂
Thanks, the supplied manual says nothing about battery maintenance, I just assumed it would be the same as my old jump pack that used SLA batteries.@@Runco990
Loved every moment of this. Thanks! It was most satisfying to hear the tractor start right up!
Cheers 👍🙂
Nice work. I've got the same jump starter so hopefully mine won't do the same but if it does i might be albe to fix it.
Yes, that's the idea and why I left a fair bit of the battery re-build in the video. I guess in the future there will be a lot of people with a similar situation once the cells start failing.
3 yıl gibi bir sürede piller kapasitesinin özelliğini kaybedecek yeni bataryaların değiştirmesi kaçınılmaz olacak.
Maalesef Noco servisi batarya değişimi yapmıyor yeni ürün satmaya çalışıyor.
......
In a period of 3 years, batteries will lose their capacity and it will be inevitable to replace them with new batteries.
Unfortunately, Noco service does not replace the battery and is trying to sell new products.
Merhaba batarya değişiminiz ve arıza çözümünüz harika. Bu paylaşım hiçbir yerde yok.
İlk defa sizden izledim.
Çok teşekkür ederim. 👏👏👏
Pravo
İşlerinizde başarılar dilerim.
Saygılarımla.
I've had my Nocona gb40 for approximately 10 years, its been used a bunch for jump-starts as well as charging other items and it is still going strong! When it dies, I'll definitely buy another Noco branded jump pack!
Thanks for sharing 👍
23:00 Been waiting for those contacts to touch each other... 🤣
A nice repair. Re-celling is always a pain. 👍
Thanks 👍Yes, I was hoping the cells were ok when I bought it and it had some other problem, which it turned out it also had 😂 The black and red wires are isolated from the pack by the black relay on the board, so they only have power when the main board activates the relay😉
I've got the same unit. It's not 1000 Amps, dispite its claims. It starts small petrol engines without any issues, but it won't turn over the 2.2L diesel in my Land Rover.
Nice to see what's inside though.
Nice. Yes I don't believe 1000 amps either, although I would have thought it would have done a Land Rover though? It did the tractor which is a 4L. It's the only thing I've tested it on so I guess time will tell.
@@BuyitFixit
Mine has now stopped outputting any real current, as it won't turn over a 999cc 3 cylinder Toyota Aygo.
I guess I'll be dropping £36 on a set of new batteries.
At least I've your helpful video to help me carry out the repair.
@johnnodge4327 After making the video I also tried it on my wifes discovery 4 after the battery went flat. It wouldn't start that either (perhaps the battery was too flat) I think they are just a glorified power bank.
Yet another cracking video. Proper diagnostic skills, unlike some other channels although still enjoy watching them, I can honestly say yours is the only channel I look forward to.
I have one of those but it's the 1500 and that starts my Citreon Relay L4 H3 from a totally flat battery, so flat had to use the key to get in as the fob wouldn't open the door locks, turns out the battery was faulty from new.
Keep them coming.
Thank you Martyn 👍Appreciate the feedback 😊
The "C rating" is just the current the cells gave to handle for a long term (all capacity at once) discharge. It comes from the internal resistance and the ability to dissipate heat. For shorter bursts you may go higher with the current, you just have to monitor the temperature and you get limited time. It is all just about the power dissipation, heat generation and the ability to handle the heat, both by thermal capacity, as well as the external cooling.
The "1000A" rating is just the current it is able to electrically deliver, aka the internal resistance.
Normally for starting you need the peak current only to get the starter moving, so for about 50ms or so, so short enough to allow the cells to handle it. Then to crank the engine fast enough to start it, you need the ability to maintain voltage (minimum in the 7V ballpark), but the current uses to drop to the 200A ballpark, low enough to cover the 10..15 seconds cranking.
Thanks for that. I'm no expert on cells so good to know 👍
You've got way more patience than I. Well tracked down and a nice repair and test. A handy thing to have.
Thanks Ian 👍
Very well done. The right pad of C12 (36:48) and the left pad of C6 both looked poor, but maybe an illusion. 1000A for 2.5ms, easily enough to jump start a six-year-old's Mercedes GLC 635 AMG. Good to see that China Airways is complying with dangerous goods regulations.
Thanks Ralph, yes sometimes the light on the microscope shows things up which look fine at other angles. Yes China Airways.. 😂😂😂😂👍
A Lie ...... express ....... they are transparent in their name .... lol
Greetings from Greece. All I can say is that you are an artist !!! Loved watching the entire video !!!
Thank you so much!
Glad there was no voltage, as you did not care at all to keep the black and red big wires separated ;-D
It's not a problem, they are isolated until the relay kicks in 🙂👍
I bought the exact same jumper pack when I had problems starting my car.
It really worked well, I got fed up constantly jumping the car so bought a new car battery, which solved the non starting.
I charged the NOCO up put it in it's pouch and plopped it into ny glove compartment thinking it would come in handy for jumping cars or the flash light.
It was forgotten for a few months until I wanted to use it on a neighbours car, it showed 1 bar and refused to jump anything, the flash light was very dim.
So I thought I would put it on charge and a big no go, the light flashed 1 bar and didn't go up after 2 hours charge.
I know I couldn't fix it, but opened the back just in case it was something obvious wrong.
When unscrewing the back the case sprung open, the battery had puffed up so much, the pressure had pushed the back open.
I didn't fancy playing about with LIPO batteries as they are volatile to say the least, I took the NOCO to a local recyclers to be exposed with.
So if you have one of these and put it in your glove compartment,, take it out regularly and charge it.
I dread to think how many of these chargers are forgotten in glove compartments or stuffed in the car boot, and they are puffing up ready to ignite in a ball of flames.
Thanks for commenting👍. Good advice, and I bet you are right about lots of these ending up forgotten about and puffing up.
Same hapened to me, I bought it to start my car, got fed up using this every morning, so bought a new car battery.
I charged the NOCO up put it in it's pouch, threw it in my glove compartment and forgot it.
After a few months, my sons car would not start, the NOCO was flat and it never charged up again, took it to bits and the battery had blown up so much it was pressing hard against the case.
In the battery recycling centre it went,
If I have a flat battery in the future I'll either charge the car battery or use jump leads maybe even buy a good old fashioned lead acid jump box
Thanks for the great video. Also awesome for learning a bit about PCB and soldering. I have been using NOCO for a long time and will no longer use any other booster. Great products. Note: The boost mode is a kind of override that even disables a safety function. This mode is basically not necessary for jump starting.
Thanks for that 👍yes someone else also mentioned about the boost mode. Perhaps I should have read the manual 😂😂😂👍
If you need jump starts a lot does that not suggest bigger problems ? I've needed a jumpstart once in 40 odd years !
@@andymouse You probably don't have vehicles sitting idle for weeks/months without being used. My tow vehicle can sit unused for 3 or 4 months at a time and it was becoming a pain have to lug the battery to it each time its needed. I built my own 4 cell pack which can put out a genuine 900+amps without failing after its first use.
I have one of these units. I find that it has worked flawlessly. I use it as a huge power bank for various things.
Yes I had been thinking that too. Handy little device and pretty much brand new now 👍
I have to admit - that was slightly anxiety inducing seeing the working practices on lithium cells that can output multiple hundred amps ... I would have used a lot more caption tape for sure. :) Very nice fix though.
Thanks 👍Sorry for any anxiety caused 🙂
mobile phones and laptops have these too ... achtung!!!! its 15c rating, only 100 amp combined ... dont freak out
@@awesomed007 The laptop and phone ones are can deliver much less current and are protected by a BMS - these are not. If you short them, you get short circuit currents of 200-400A (more with bigger starter packs).
@@TylerDurden-pk5km I have recycled 10000 lithium cells. Not as powerful as these.Few times I shorted 1.2kw packs, they deliver maybe few hundred amps, nickel got red hot and arced a centremetre off ending the short. A car battery can give 1000amp if you short it. What we should fear is if a lithium catches fire internally. Even a mobile phone battery is as dangerous as the lithium combusts same irrespective of what type of pack. Now regards this battery booster batteries. I think they are 15C rated... A give away is the noco 15X label. So 15x 2.2 amp is 33 amp output but yes, in a short, some batteries will give more but to my mind, your fear and anxiety is too much. Don't believe that these are 600 amp batteries that are required to start your car, they are not. They merely supply current to mosfets on the board that up the amps to anything between 200-1000amp depending on manufacturer honesty. Beware of lithium for fires, even a small low c rating is dangerous as any. Hope this helps you reduce anxiety. Goodluck.
@@awesomed007 I cant vouch for these specific ones, but test of these starters by others show Amps in the range of 200-800A (depending on model). Usually they are NOT protected by mosfets, they have reverse protection diodes and usually a relay and apart from that - directly connected to the lithium cells.
Mobile phone batteries have a protection board within the batterie assembly, so as long as one is not opening the assembly and shorting the tabs of the batterie pouch directly - it should no be possible to cause runaway.
You can look for example at the channel of "project farm" to see tests of these that include measurement of output amps.
Otay plumbers tinning flux plus a little bit of light sanding makes the solder stick almost instantly to the battery tabs. The tabs are optimuzed for spot welding rather than soldering so a more agressive flux is needed. ❤
Thanks for that 👍🙂
Nice repair, even though I was dreading you accidently shorting the new cells. Also soldering over them might not be a super idea. Higher melting point unleaded solder might be better for high current battery connections but you also don't want to much temp in the cells while soldering.
Thanks 👍
spot on, the spot welders use that solder on their internal components
What spot welders use solder? Normally they don't use any solder at all.
@@dubmob151 lost in translation, what I meant is, that internals of spot welders have these high output tracks made of such solder, internal connections, etc
@@awesomed007 oh okay gotcha
Thanks for the video. As always, I learned a lot. I was thinking buying one of these Noco boosters but seeing how it is made inside, I do not think I will buy one; components are too much squeezed together without proper safety space around.
Yes, I don't think they are very good. After I tried it on the tractor my wifes landrover went flat and it didn't turn that over so I had to resort to the old jump leads and a spare battery. Someone else in the comments said their unit wouldn't start a landrover either.
@@BuyitFixit this is « only » a 1 kw booster; I guess for a Landrover it would be better to get a higher wattage booster.
Nervously looking how you kept almost touching the batteries with all kind of cables and other stuff while rotating old cell back.
Makes it more interesting 😂😂👍
great video - and a good reminder for me to go and charge mine up to prevent the batteries swelling!
Thanks 👍Hopefully you remembered to charge it 🙂
those two terminals so close to contact with the new batteries! 😰 you are much braver than i am my friend. i am trying to build a jump pack from scratch, learned a lot from your video. I thought it needed 4 cells but 3 also works it seems.
Thanks 👍If you mean the red and black wires, they are isolated via the black relay on the board, so if they touch nothing would happen. Good luck with you're jump pack 🙂
@@BuyitFixit ah that explains it. Thanks again for the very informative video. 👍🏾
You're welcome 👍
The positioning of the scissors and the other tool (i don't know the english name for) at 18:00 got me holding my breath for almost a minute! Damn! Nice repair but keep it safer next time.
I have one of these boost packs but not sure if its best to keep it charged or let it discharge on a regular basis to stop this happening with the batteris, could someone advise on this please, excellent video even though i wouldn't attempt it 👍
Thanks, I'd just keep it charged up. It's pretty much the same batteries that are in mobile phones and laptops. You don't need to run them flat and fully charge them like you had to do with old battery technologies like NiCad batteries.
Best boost pack ever. I had the GB70 fail out of warranty, unfortunately this video wasn’t around then but the manufacturer replaced it at 50% cost which I thought was very fair.
I'm not convinced myself. Seems a lot of people have problems with them, but thanks for commenting and letting me know your thoughts 👍
Great video .. i have one in my car boot for emergencies .. bit worrying it was a manufacturing defect.
Thanks, all items have a certain percentage of faulty or returned units. I've not had a lot to do with these boost packs can't really advise.
I certainly did enjoy the video. Very satisfying to see the jump starter brought back to life.
Thank you 👍
You're a lot braver than I am - the chances of shorting out the cells, resulting in violent self-dismantling, is far too high! (Also I'm clumsy...) Well done!
Thanks 👍🙂
Great video, reminded me of building surface mount boards at uni a lifetime ago,
Thanks 👍🙂
Nice fix , tip for connectors measure the voltage on the pcb to see if the conection is any good, it removes the doubt.....
Thanks, yes good idea. They looked very discoloured and overheated so I thought it would be best to replace them anyway.
At One point I wondered if replacing the contacts in the plug might have been the trick. Seemingly did 2 things at once, however no such luck.
Yet another great video and fix. Good to see it tested on the Tractor.
My Big, jumper, inflator, light has packed up.
Been wondering about getting something like this for ages, they just seem SO small.
Will have to maybe get one now though 🙂
Thanks 👍I'm not too sure how great these are, after making the video I needed to use it on my wifes landrover and it didn't do a good job of starting it. Ended up having to resort to using my car and a set of decent jump leads so perhaps I'd do a little more research before buying one.
@@BuyitFixit Thanks for the advice, I think from what I can find, as with most things. You get what you pay for. Can be such a useful bit of kit though. Ideally would need a jump starter and a pack to run my Ham radio on, that would be KEWL, unfortunately boosting and running are 2 different jobs.
Nice job, side effect of being eviromently friendly. I have a full solder/desolder station but havent had to use it in anger yet as it were.
Thanks 👍🙂
Good video. I have one of these in each of my vehicles. Reminded me it was time for me to charge each one up for the winter.
Thanks 👍Glad it was helpful and reminded you 🙂
These things are great and useful - but cheaply made to be consumer disposable junk which is sad. but you were able to rescue one out of the bin with a LOT of skill. nice!
Thank you 👍
You've a pretty good understanding of electronics and are very patient. Nice video.
Thanks Kris 👍
I got the same one. When i was checking reviews for it people complained that you can't leave it in the car because the cells would expand because of the heat.
I thoroughly enjoyed this video, not only an indepth repair, a proper test of pack as well. 👍
Thanks 👍🙂
Great video. I have a jump starter that is losing charge. It drops about 15% over a few days. I suspect the battery must be buggered as it is almost 4 years old and on,y used a few times, and I have always tried to charge it every month or two.
Thanks, if it's the same model as this one it seems they have no cell balancing, only cell monitoring. So what happens is that if one cell doesn't get fully charged, and the effect seems to get worse over time. The device stops charging when any cell gets to 4.2V, and one of the other cells may only be at 3V, which causes problems like what you have.
@BuyitFixit mine is a different model, but probably the same problem
Great detection sir. Bmc at fault on them tiny smds. Another unit saved 👍
Thanks 👍
Ha, you have a tractor. Dude, that's so country! You sound like a city boy, and you repair complicated electronics. The tractor was a total surprise.
Well done 'mate'. :)
Thanks mate 👍yes moved to the country a few years back.
Another one saved ...... That's a nice tractor , the Case IH dealer is right up the road from me , and the John Deere dealer is another 3/8 th of a mile farther , Easy to access JD parts like that ............. Take care Mon Ami ...
Thanks Cajun 👍The tractor may feature in another video, as after making this one I received an email from the other side of the world,asking for help with a faulty dashboard...
I enjoyed watching you troubleshoot the problem so much I became a subscriber.
I know you had to purchase some expensive parts to do the repair, and I don't think you purchased anything you did not need.
It would be very nice to see a list of the costs involved in the repair, and maybe some links to the parts you purchased.
Thank you
Dennis O.
Thanks Dennis, I'd say about £35 in parts. I've done a lot more complicated repairs than this one, so please check out my other videos 👍
I subscribed...@@BuyitFixit
Cool vid bro! You earned your battery pack indeed. Good job fixing it and not sending it to landfill. I’ve got a few things in various stages of “fixed” laying around my place! 👍
Thanks 👍😂😂you and me both!
Good job well done, a pleasure to watch! And the feeling of getting such things repaired is so satisfactory - worth much more than these much too expensive nocos cost. At least that is my experience from working in a repair cafe or tinkering for myself...😊
Thanks 👍yes I volunteer at our local repair cafe too 🙂
A great item to have working up in the North-East at winter time.
From a guy in the less frozen South-East.
According to TH-cam's Weather Guru Ryan Hall . . .you may be digging that tractor out this winter .
Great fix 👍
Thanks, I've used the tractor in past winters to dig our driveway out 😂😂😂😂👍
I bought one of these yesterday from Amazon. Glad I bought the extended warranty.
Good choice!
@@BuyitFixit Can you review charging a phone with it..Have read that it's slow charging phones since it's not the units intention.
@@mgomez5606 According to the specs it's output is 5V at 2.1A so the same as a good quality car cigarette lighter charger.
@@BuyitFixit have you tried it on a phone?
No, I've not tried but 2.1A output on a USB isn't something out of the ordinary, and pretty standard these days. Obviously it won't charge as quickly as a USB-C PD charger if your phone supports it.
Yes I would like to see more of this. And submit a request: it would be great if you did not use time lapse, details are always missed when you assemble (or disassemble) this quickly. I think the motto should be: if its worth showing at all its worth showing in real time.
Thanks 👍unfortunately the video would have ended up being about 3 hours long. I ended up cutting a load from it and speeding bits up and it was still 1hr 30 long. A lot of people these days have a short attention span and wouldn't have sat through me rebuilding the cell so I sped that bit up a bit. Thanks for commenting 👍
hi i have the noco gb150 it blew a diode on the board because the battery go to low and the charger would not charge it i added a new diode and recharged it works fine now there are a couple of YT channels that repair these it is a common problem blown diode and faulty battery packs cheers from down under
Interesting, Thanks for letting me know 👍and cheers from on top 😂😂
I have learned so much watching your videos. Thank you for making them
You are so welcome!👍
This is the kind of stuff i come to youtube for. Subscribed
Thanks, I'm sure you will be impressed with some of my other videos 🙂👍
Great video! Your diagnostic method is pretty solid. Way to go sourcing IC components from boards of like technology and function. Can you share the solder and desoldering tools you use?
Thanks 👍I started putting the tools I use I the video description. If it's not in this video it is in the last few I have done 🙂
Great video, watched from start to finish and then subscribed. Now to watch some of your older vids. What a way to spend my Sunday afternoon 😀
Thanks Richard 👍
So many comments I didn’t read them all so excuse me if this is a repeat note. I have the same charger and found the flashlight function has a design flaw. The touch switch is easily turned on when bumped especially when stored away in its sack. After watching this I will take mine apart and physically decouple the switch for the light to prevent accidental discharge from a bump of the pack. The light is fairly insignificant and a flashlight will do instead.
I've not heard anyone mention that but yes it should be easy to do 👍
Great job, stuck to your guns and followed it through to the end! Don’t think I would have had the patience!
What’s your day job, be interesting to know.
Thanks👍 we have a small farm..
@@BuyitFixit
Very nice, with lots of rabbits I see!
Great content!
Nice fix! 👍 It was probably faulty from the beginning, but owner perhaps never tried charging it until it went flat.
After that the cells were slowly drained by the electronics from just sitting and eventually got ruined. A shame it wasn't sold earlier so the cells would have been savable.
For a budget-jumpstart any high C rated 3S-4S RC battery will work just fine, and they have no electronics to cause vampire drain either.
Thanks 👍 and also thanks for the info 🙂👍
Flipping good deduction of the circuitry and fault finding skills, subscribed!
Thanks Charles 👍hopefully you'll like some of my other videos 🙂
bought that one, the GB40 in 15 and still works fine after all these years.
Nice 👍
Brilliant. I’m sure you wanted a quick fix, as I did for you, but as it turned out made for a more interesting video
Thanks Jeff 👍
Gteat repair! I have a GB70 and has served me well for many years, it if ever has a issue i have your excellent video to help! 👍👍
Thank you 👍
You put together an interesting video. This is not something I'm likely to ever do, mainly because I do not understand how the interior of these electronics work so I would not do this. But, you put together an interest in enough video that I subscribe to it. Thank you very much.
Thanks 👍I do try and repair a wide range of electronic and sometimes mechanical devices 🙂
Your one of My favourite Channell’s, your content is informative and fantastic. Thanks :)
Thanks so much 👍Really appreciate your feedback 😊👍
Hi, liked and subscribed loved this video and it's content. Simply love the way you walk through fault finding, it's fantastic. I bought one of these of ebay some time ago and it won't switch on so you have inspired me to take a look to see if I can figure it out. Please could you advise what the cleaner is you use. I heard you say IP . Would thst simply be isopropyl alcohol?
The board I have has quite a bit of white on it in various places, I suspect maybe water damage. Would water do that please? Can that staining be cleaned off with something?
Thanking you again, any help would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the good work. Look forward to more of your videos.
Thanks, yes isopropyl alcohol 🙂I've got a fair back catalogue of videos, some are quite interesting especially when manufacturers were unwilling to help and I had to resort to things like reverse engineering software (solar inverter) or altering the circuit (FLIR thermal camera repair). I also looked at a Medical ultrasound scanner, unlocked and ton of hidden features and made it run Doom 😂😂