Ioniq 5 Battery Degradation Test After 18 Months of DC Fast Charging, Surprising Results!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 พ.ค. 2024
- After EXCLUSIVELY DC fast charging my Hyundai Ioniq 5 for 18 months, what has that done to my battery?
This video covers HOW to run a battery degradation test and then I go over my very own battery degradation numbers after roughly 120 Electrify America DC fast charging sessions over 18 months of ownership. This video applies to all EGMP EVs from Hyundai group - Ioniq 5, Ioniq 6, EV6, GV60, GV70, G80, etc.
The results may surprise you!
00:37 How to test for battery degradation
01:41 How I ran my test (without knowing how it easy it should be)
03:30 Don't be fooled by Electrify America's energy charged number
04:25 My degradation numbers after 18 months of DC fast charging
06:11 How often I DC fast charge my Ioniq 5
07:17 AutoBot RFID Charging Station
08:37 Back to the video!
09:51 What did we learn?
10:46 Run the test and report your degradation!
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Very useful and interesting information. I almost exclusively charge with my Lvl 2 charger at home but it's still nice to hear that battery degradation really shouldn't be an issue for these cars.
Glad it was helpful, we've got good battery packs!
he dare doing what nobody else has the courage (and money) to. i salute this man
I'm saving money with free charging haha
I've learned so much from this series of videos. Thanks so much!
You are so welcome!
Dude, I hope your new born is healthy and doing amazingly.
Thank you! Yes he is doing really well and keeping us awake all night :)
Great video, thanks for the info! I got very similar results after 40,000 miles and 75% DC fast charging.
Yes thank you for posting your video! Your video was my inspiration haha. Yours was an excellent real world range test, unfortunately I couldn't do that so had to get creative and figure out a different way to calculate it.
Thanks for explaining the difference between the the 74 kWh referencrd in online forums and 77.4 kWh advertised. I mistakenly thought only 74 kWh was usable, but I also went through an experience confirming there was at least six miles of range at 0% displayed on a really cold day when I didn't realize how much that would hurt my range.
I don't know now with all those update, but I can confirm too at least 10km (Your near 6 miles) after showing 0% (I was thinking estimate return range would be the same as too go to this travel). Found estimate range got overestimate 40km on return when I bought this car 1 and half year ago. Now I know to not trust this estimate if I go to the limit. 😄
77.4 is the total battery size and 74 is the usable portion. Manufacturers build in a gap to protect the battery.
You're welcome! Was a very helpful learning experience for me as well. I wish Hyundai had this information available as it really is important to know exactly how much real battery is remaining at any given time.
Hahah ya guessometer is not so great sometimes. I wish the car would just tell us how much energy (kWh) remaining instead of telling us a range estimate or battery %.
77.4 is the usable size, 74 is the reported. Unless you are talking about the Euro spec 2021-22 models that came with slightly smaller batteries.
Remaining energy shows 74000w on brand new cars with no degradation but bms soc at 96.5 at full charge
I am getting ready to purchase an Ioniq 6 and a lot of these explaintions since they're on the same chassis but a lot of my concerns to rest since I wont really have a place to plug in at home for now.
Thank you for the studies and comments everyone!
Glad it helped, Hyundai has done a good job protecting the battery.
I'm in the same situation as you: 95%+ of DCFC at EA and 5% charge at home (Level 1) so that's good to hear so the degradation is low! After my 2 free years are up, I'll install a Level 2 charger and probably switch to primarily charge at home and occasionally DCFC.
Haha ya I think many of us ioniq 5 owners were planning to do the same thing. Sad that I won't get to test degradation in another year or two but so far I think it's held up really well.
Hey there! I did a full charge last night and got 68560 Watt hours remaining energy with 100% SOC. I've also noticed the range (miles) shrinking down. It showed only 220 miles of range which is way less than it used to be (260-ish @ 100%). I have the 2023 Ioniq5 SEL AWD (long range battery) with only 5000 miles (USA) bought 8-30-2023 new. I have an appointment with my dealer next week and I'm hoping that it's just a calibration issue and a non-problem. I do have aftermarket wheels (w/factory tires) on my car but I wouldn't think that would have anything to do with the lower than normal remaining energy reading at 100% SOC. I guess we'll see..... I've only done 3 DCFCs and everything else is level 2 at home (40 amp charger) overnight. I typically charge 2-3 times a week. My commute is about 25 miles a day and the weather here in Greensboro, NC has been mild over the winter so not any drastic temperatures to deal with. Thank you for putting this out there and I will keep you posted on the results next week after seeing my dealer.
Sounds like maybe it needs a recalibration. Someone else posted similar results and took to the dealership who did a BMS scan and recalibration.
Otherwise that is severe degradation.
Hyundai should offer routine calibration if this is happening frequently.
@@CarsJubilee Took it in for the latest ICCU recall and asked the tech to check on the battery BMS and he said everything looks fine. Afterwards, I noticed right away that my average KWperMile jumped back to what I'm used to seeing (3.2 vs 2.3) so I think it's fine.
Great video as usual. 10K miles that's pretty low mileage over 18 months. Your car's battery is relatively new based on low amount of charge cycles. Just to give another similar data point but with more charge cycles. I pretty much drove over 52,000 miles with my old Kona EV over a similar amount of time with 70% level 2 charge and 30% DC and it measured 5% degradation. My calculations basically indicated that I would get at least 240,000 miles before the battery degraded to 80% capacity.
IMHO, in general the Hyundai batteries are fine, but the odds of an individual cell/module degrading or failing will get much higher as it ages and unfortunately the worst cell will bring the entire otherwise healthy pack down. While you can replace individual cell modules in the e-gmp collective battery it really does not much sense vs an entirely new battery packs after a couple of years as the new replacement modules will drop to the capacity of the lowest existing cell/modules. Also when individual cells/modules fail the Hyundai BMS software will essentially brick the entire car which forces you to have the software rewritten by Hyundai dealer after they tell you need an expensive new battery replacement. That's if compatible new battery packs with relative "old battery technology" are still being manufactured when your battery fails.
This is not a problem in warranty but after warranty I anticipate alot of financially written off Hyundai EVs as there is not nearly the 3rd party support that exists for higher volume produced Teslas. Basically these batteries are designed to make the vehicles more disposable than we currently appreciate with ICE cars and I will generalize so much to say that its risky keeping a Hyundai, KIA, Genesis EV outside of warranty regardless.
Interesting, but I will add, I think contrary it will be more easy to fix those E-GMP because compared to like Tesla, they didn't glued each cell and all battery pack compared to Tesla. Another thing, I don't know if Hyundai do as Tesla, Tesla have the reputation to not wanting third party fixing their car, I heard even front light replacement need programming from Tesla to be able to work again. Another think, I think there is 4-8 BMS modules in E-GMP, then less costly to replace 1 BMS compared to a big module and if I remember correctly only 0.4 volts difference between cells can lock the BMS.
I agree the new structural Tesla battery packs will pretty much mandate whole pack replacements. That said you have a better chance of getting used parts for Tesla from 3rd party sources mainly because of the number of EVs sold. Tesla is now up to 1.3 million units per year vs Hyundai'a 109K EV worldwide. At least in the short term the ability to get used parts edge goes to Tesla. As far as the right to repair, at the moment the Hyundai BMS firmware seems pretty much only available to Hyundai service technicians.
This may change but at the moment if you did have an e-gmp vehicle with a failed battery out of warranty( such as a late model rebuilt write off) in your are in for a whopper of a bill.
@@Alejandro-ut4up The eGMP battery pack can be removed and easily disassembled without breaking any parts, with basic tools. Unlike the Tesla pack, where at least the lid, which covers the entire battery, will be destroyed in the process. There is no replacement lid available from Tesla and disassembling the pack is not an easy task. You would preferably use second hand modules from written off cars to match the ones in your car. Here in Europe there are already Workshops specialised in EV battery repair and they will usually bring even quite exotic ones back to live at a reasonable price. I think the battery isn't more prone to cause the death of a car than an ICE engine. Particularly not in a Hyundai.
Thanks for the video. If you're using Car Scanner with the dongle, why not just rely on the Battery SOH reading from that app? How does that reading compare to the method you presented here? I figured it would show less than 100%
You're welcome! Unfortunately not accurate, SOH for mine shows 100% still even though I clearly have over 1% degradation based on remaining energy.
Based on my research I think remaining energy is the best measurement of degradation that we currently have.
This was also helpful to know how long you could blast the heat stuck in a snowstorm with the battery at 20%. I would think if you wanted to do it the other way would be to get to to about 20ish percent on a Friday and then on Saturday just drive up and down a highway near an Electrify America until close to dead and then drive around the Electrify America until turtle 0%. In my experience, you have at least 6 miles of turtle mode to get to the charger if not more. It was definitely a "fun" experience figuring out that I could go 6 miles when the car displayed 0%.
Yaaa I was thinking of driving the last 20% and going directly to charge afterwards but that would have been a 1.5 to 2 hour commitment since I needed to charge to 100%. Can't really do that right now having a toddler and newborn at home so did the best I could of draining it while still being home haha
I only do about 9300 miles per year, got the ioniq 5 awd last year, only done css for the time.
I hope renewing cells will be even cheaper in future and that companies will pick up providing third party batteries or Hyundai use their development progress to also provide more efficient batteries to older models. Since there is so little maintenance comparing to cars in similar price class, it's a good deal regardless.
That's an interesting point about swapping out the battery. If we see costs come down drastically that might work. But currently the batteries make up maybe around half the cost of the car so you'd probably be better off from a cost perspective buying a new one or lightly used one vs trying to a battery swap.
@@CarsJubilee As far as I concerned all Ioniq 5 packs together cost around 11k€ wholesale, my car (Uniq 320HP AWD) is listing at 60k. So replacing all packs is around 13k€ at my place. Ofc it's not the whole battery framework that would prolly be like 20k. But if I see the cost my dad has with his Mercedes repairs, it's a cheap option if it's like 1.5-2k in maintenance per year. Like you don't have any other big maintenance. (At least I hope so lol)
Hey thanks for this video! I just recently got my Ioniq 5 and seeing lots of advises advising to charge only until 80% and not reach 100%. I wonder in your calculation here where battery degradation is not an issue when you always use fast charging, do you always charge until 100%, or 80%?
You're welcome, I typically charged to 80-90% since I was doing 30 minute free sessions at EA and stopped whenever the 30 minutes was over.
Charging to 100% is totally fine as long as you don't store the car for long periods of time at 100%. Otherwise you would be better off keeping it around 80% except for when you need the full charge.
Thanks heaps mate@@CarsJubilee, from your real life experience and proving with data, it's much more comforting as you may know, out there, there's a lot of theory things saying "don't charge your car to 100% regularly", "fast charging reducing your battery life", and other things. One more thing, how long is your Ioniq's battery warranty out there? Here where i live, it's 8 years battery warranty
Great info ty
Glad it was helpful!
I tested mine and i got 73360W and SOC BMS of 97%. I have 27,500 miles on the car. I did exactly 35 session of DC fast charging and all the rest was done using Level 2 charging. Did few charges to 90% and above. However, I never had the battery going below 20%.
So according to your calculation assuming the ratio should be calculated against 74kW then my degredation is less than 1% (0.87%) which is too good to be true😮.
That sounds about right, these things can handle DCFC haha
So you said you didn't have to drain it and replenish it. Do you simply need to charge to 100% from whatever SOC you're at and then look at the "Remaining energy"?
Yup you got it, very simple test! Wish I had known it was that easy haha
OK, I just did the same measurement on my 9 month old 2023 GV60 with 13,000 miles. During the last 13,000 miles it has been typically charged 95% of the time on level 2 and 5% charged on DC. My typically charge cycle is from 60-90%. Using the same methodology and according to car scanner I got 73,602 Wh charge left on a full indicated 100% charge (97% actual BMS) this would imply 0.5% degradation, it would also imply ~1% less degradation on my mostly AC charged battery compared to your mostly DC charged I5 with similar mileage. I don't think difference between the age of the packs would be significant enough to explain the difference.
That's actually really good, about 300w degradation every 10,000 miles.
At 100,000 miles you'll have lost 3 kwh or 4% battery capacity. That's way better than I would expect from a battery with 100,000 miles.
Can you recommend a different reader? Your OBDC2 reader is listed in Amazon as “does not fit” 2015 eGolf. Thanks. I’d like to compare and provide you stats on my eGolf.
I believe egolf does have OBD2 port so it should work, but maybe check the e golf forums? I did a quick search and seems like should have OBD2.
A lot of people like the veapeak ble or ble+
2022 Ioniq5 SE AWD
48000 mi
Total battery work time 6835 hr
Cumulative energy charged, 20,766 kWh
Remaining energy ta-da! 73,712 Wh
Very nice!!
Hi if your battery is the same size as the uk spec car and I think it is then the batteries total / gross capacity is 77.4 kilowatts and the usable capacity is 74 kilowatts. That 3 % is the buffer split between the top of the battery and the bottom to protect the battery. But never the less about 1.5 %loss after 10,000 miles is good considering that’s 95% rapid charging.
The US spec is a slightly bigger battery. Around 80kwh gross, 77.4 usable, 74 visible in BMS.
I think euro spec was 77.4 gross, 74 usable for 2021/2022? The newer models should be same battery size as US spec I thought but not 100% sure.
Ya very impressed with the loss so far, the BMS is doing a great job protecting the battery.
What matters most is how often you charge to 100% and how often you drain it to near zero and how hot the battery gets. Fast charging is not bad in itself, just that some cars cannot keep the battery temps steady when fast charging.
I've seen some owners report minimal degradation with daily charging to 100% with level 2 charging.
I used to do dc fast charging because it was “free” but started thinking about the time spent and the cost of electric and it isn’t worth the time to drive and wait. Although now my ac charging is experiencing the problem of speed degradation of not charging the full session at 11.4kw/hour where it used to when new.
Ya I sometimes wonder if it's worth it haha but it made for some good testing since I was very curious what it would do to the battery.
Luckily my local station is less than a mile away from home so it's not much trouble getting there. The only annoying part is when half or all the stations are down or power limited which has been happening more and more frequently.
As the battery chemistry materials prices dropped this year about 40% ! ( lithium 80% price down ! )
I am expecting vehicle like Ioniq 5 or Tesla Model Y to be delivered with a bit bigger battery soon , 90kWh could be a game changer among competitors
Ya 10% more range would be fantastic, pretty much all I need haha
So is this really the best way to check degradation? Is the BMS accurate? Would a range test provide a more definitive conclusion?
New owners report 74000w remaining energy at 100% SOC and the numbers back up the hidden 3.4kWh so it appears this is the most accurate approach currently.
Real world range test was done by Upper West EV, checkout his channel. You would have to run the same exact route when the car is brand new and then run it again for the degradation range test at some point in the future. But it's hard to ensure 100% same runs. Exterior temperatures, wind, rain etc and traffic patterns are hard to keep the same or quantify. Not to mention other things like tire pressure, number of people and how much extra weight/luggage is in the car that could also skew a run. I think it's still helpful to have a real world range test but currently this calculation using the BMS appears to be most accurate.
15 months, 27,000miles. 67,000 100% (96.5 SOC MS) ~9.5% degradation. Mix of DC Fast and Level 1/2. However, for the past 7 months I have been changing 5 days a week every day (free work charge Level 2) ~40 - 90%. I have also noticed that the rated miles have dropped. Use to get ~240miles at 90%. How I get ~215 miles at 90%. Seems higher than others?
Oh wow, that does seem high for degradation. I've seen some ev6 owners who charge daily to 100% on level 2 with almost no degradation.
I would guess yours is abnormally high and there may be something wrong, maybe some faulty cells. I'm not sure how the dealership or corporate would measure degradation but I think our method here is a good starting point. If you do take it in I'd love to hear how things go!
Thanks. Great video. Does home AC charging not cause degradation?
Surprisingly not really, I have a follow up video talking about home charging. There's proof that you can daily charge to 100% at home with almost no degradation.
@@CarsJubileeNo, that’s a myth. It will take longer than if you charge faster, but 100% is never good. The longer you have most of the ions at either pole of the cells, the worse for their health. Keeping them balanced evenly (50%) is actually best.
@@ManfredvonHolstein Ours is still showing 100% health with 73,600WH after a 100% charge after 26k miles. The drop from 74,000 to 73,600 is 0.5%, so we are looking at a 2% loss at 100k miles. We do a 100% charge at least once a month as recommended or more often if taking a long trip. But it's most all L2 home charging.
@@SkaBob As with all batteries most of the damage shows only much later
@SkaBob that's excellent degradation numbers, very much inline with what I've seen from others that only L2 charge.
My Model 3 is about 4 1/2 years old and has 48,000 miles. There's been so little battery degradation that I don't even notice a change in range.
Have you seen the starting range number decrease? Teslas show decreased max range as the battery degrades which makes it much easier to see without having to do any kind of calculation.
@@CarsJubilee Only about 3% from the stated original range. It's like 295 vs the 310 original.
Tested mine tonight. Limited AWD 77.4kWh battery. Took possession April 1, 2022 with 7 miles on it. While charging tonight I was at 18,500 miles. 99+% of my charges are at EA DCFC either at the 150 or 350kW chargers, most have been at the 150kw. Some have been back-to-back 30 min sessions, most between 20-80% with some recently going to 90%. EA app say 155 charges but that doesn't include all the ones that went to "driver" instead of me because of their problems, including one of my sessions tonight. I assume over 200 charges at EA, with a couple dozen at the free Volta while at the grocery store. No more than 5 on the portable 120v AC charging cable. 97% SOC MS, 100% SOC, Remaining Energy 67296. So 67296/74000 = 90.94%. That means I've dropped 9+% in 17 months. And already gone through a 12v battery too.
That's similar charging habits as mine but higher miles. Yours should have followed my numbers if everything was working right, just slightly higher to account for more miles.
10% degradation this early seems to mean something is wrong. Someone else also recently reported only having about 55,000 watts remaining at 97% soc for BMS. Could be some faulty battery cells.
Definitely would try getting dealership involved, likely corporate as well. Show them yours compared to mine, hopefully they will swap out your pack completely.
@@CarsJubilee Took mine in today to get the update for the brake lights and also had them run a diagnostic on the power plant battery. They also recalibrated the state of charge. I charged it to 100% this evening. 73,952 Wh at 100%. Using your math that means I'm now at 99.935% of full capacity so I've dropped 0.065% in 18 months at 19,000 miles. My charging rate has increased now that EA has installed some 350's on a route I travel a couple times a week. Looks like battery is good to go. Thank you for the guidance.
Wow very interesting, I'd imagine you should be seeing some degradation after 18 months if you've been dc fast charging but that new number is like a brand new car. If that number is true that's amazing. I guess keep checking it periodically.
Did they say how they 'recalibrated' it?
@@CarsJubilee The only "details" I received from the dealer was a couple of pics of the diagnostic tablet. One shows "SOC Calibration" / "SOC Calibration in progress" / "The function has been completed." The other was "High Voltage Battery Pack diagnosis" / "The high voltage battery diagnosis has been completed." / "SOH value and the battery cell voltage are normal." I was surprised at how high the number was too. I'll check the energy levels at different percentages and see if they hold true too.
@mprentice6805 gotcha I wonder if some of us will get some KW back with a simple recalibration. Was the SOC in BMS still showing 96.5 or 97% when the car shows 100%?
Looking forward to seeing how things play out for you, could mean I actually have no degradation but just need a recalibration.
Do you always plug into an EA 350? My thinking is maybe you can reduce degradation even more by only using a 150 for normal use 🤷🏽
I've only charged twice at a 350kw charger. My local station is four 150kw chargers, which is where I've done about 99% of my charging to date.
I just checked ours at 26k miles and it's still reporting 100% health with 73,600WH remaining at 100% charge. Think it said we had 25 DC fast charging sessions the rest have all be L2.
That's excellent! Very very good degradation numbers, makes me confident that these batteries will last a long time.
I charge with DCFC probably about the same percentage as you and I’ve had the car for a little over 13 months and have 12.4K miles. I’ll try to charge to 100% tonight and check my battery degradation. Also I thought you got rid of the I5? Was this video created when you still had it?
Finally got a chance to charge to 100%. Unfortunately, my case is bit more extreme because my remaining energy is 69176 so I lost about 6.52% =(
Oh wow, that's significantly more. I wonder if you have a faulty cell. You only have about 2k more miles than me.
Have you noticed a full charge not taking you as far as it did before?
Might be worth taking it into the dealership and complain about degradation issues.
@@CarsJubilee yup I’m not sure what’s going on. And I don’t know if the dealer would actually do something. I still need to do my ICCU recall service so I’ll mention it to them then.
Did you decide to keep the Ioniq 5?
Ah unfortunately no, it's still going back to Hyundai. But still content creating while I have it and making some future videos.
@@CarsJubileeDo you still have the GV60? How much DCFC did you do on that and what is the degradation?
Still have it, it's got about half the degradation but it's got slightly less dcfc sessions and less in the blazing hot sun.
The fact that you normally don't charge up to 100% does in fact help with battery degradation, the ideal charging range should be between 20% and 70% at all times
People say this, but I never hear what the source of this information is. I'd love to know what a Hyundai battery engineer would tell you. (Please don't say it's in the manual. Whoever wrote that can't even spell or write good sense.)
@@johnbb99 No, I actually read this in an article backed by a scientific paper not long ago, but now I'm unable to find it again. I've searched online for scientific papers and found this result :
"The results of different SOC ranges demonstrate that the batteries cycled in high and low SOC intervals will sustain the most capacity loss. The maximum capacity loss occurs in the 0-20% SOC cycle, which is 18.65%, followed by the 80-100% SOC cycle, which is about 17.88%. A minimum in aging is detected for the cells cycled around 30% and 50% average SOC. The cells cycled at 50% average SOC with 10% DOD have only experienced a capacity loss of 4.34% after prolonged cycling. Therefore, operating within 30-70% SOC is more beneficial to the NCM batteries with other conditions being equal"
@@mramosotero this is interesting but it raises more questions than it
@@mramosotero This is interesting but it raises more questions than it answers.
Which lithium ion battery chemistry is being referred to?
Are these cells in car batteries or in some other application? (Just curious)
If a car which manufacturer and model?
Is the temperature of the battery being carefully monitored and controlled, being actively warmed up or cooled down as needed?
What are NCM batteries?
To give some context to my information, I'm in a large community of BMW i3 owners, many of which have owned since 2014, and done 100,000 miles, and I'm sure have used most of the capacity, and rapid charged, and I have yet to hear from anyone complaining of significant loss of capacity. We are not concerned about rapid charging to 95 or more%, and the [good] advice is to leave it on AC charge at 100%, as that is when cell balancing occurs.
I know that early Leafs and Teslas *should not* be treated this way, due to different Battery Management System, etc.
@@johnbb99 you should read through the paper to get the missing answers 😉 NMC is the classic Nickel Manganese Cobalt anode chemistry as found in the Ioniq5 or Long Range Teslas (not the short range LFP chemistry which happily goes 0-100%) , I have no idea which chemistry was used on the BMW i3 though, possibly noted in the car registration papers. Another possibility is that BMW used a very big buffer as the i3 was one of the first EVs, so the degradation can be there without a range loss if the buffer is big enough.
I'm no expert either, just general interest as I'm owning an Ioniq 5. The main conclusion for me is that with NMC chemistry when it can be avoided, you shouldn't charge more than 80% or fall below 10-20%, that should be doable on a dialy basis, and use the full capacity only for the longer trips that require it.
nice,, well the charging of everything is not 100 % efficient,, you lose about 10 % level 2,3 charging,, level one is really bad down to around only 70% efficient as most of that is lost to battery management for heating or cooling
Ya agreed, otherwise adding 80kwh to my battery according to EA wouldn't have made any sense.
Edit: I charged my 1 month old GV60 to 100% and it shows 73,824 remaining energy, which is 0.2% degradation. 97% SOC BMS
Oooh very interesting, I'm curious if it hangs out at that number for a while. Do you mostly DCFC or level 2 charge?
@@CarsJubilee Mostly L2. OBD2 says I've charged 38 kWh on DCFC and 386 kWh on L2 (and some L1 when I first got the car)
Wow barely any charging, I wonder if fully charged bms shows less than 74,000.
General consensus is that it should show around 74,000 but it could be less or your battery already has a little bit of degradation.
Maybe check it every month or so and see how it tracks. If you are level 2 charging mostly I would expect your remaining energy number to stay roughly the same for the next year or two based on others with high mileage.
@@CarsJubilee Yeah, I've only had the car for a month, 1356 miles driven. I'm probably not going to charge to 100% except when I'm planning on a road trip, but I'll definitely check it every time I do.
@@CarsJubilee I charged to 100% after some errands and this time, remaining energy went up to 73,824 out of a possible 74,000 (0.2% degradation), and SOC BMS went up to 97%.
Just don't scratch the cover you'll be up for 60k 😂
I have put 25,000 miles on my ioniq 5 in four months.
Wow that's a ton of miles haha. I'd bet very little degradation still, these batteries are very well managed.
@@CarsJubilee I will likely do a degradation test soon.
any hyundai deealer should be able to read BMS data, the car calculates degradation itself and that will be more accurate than your calculations. dealers are required to give you records of BMS data from your pack.
Interesting, I imagine they would charge you for it as that's not related to warranty service and not something they can bill back to Hyundai for.
On top of that, I'm not confident my local dealership or service techs would know how to, they don't even understand miles per kwh. They'd probably need a corporate field engineer on site to walk them through it and that's a big ordeal.
@@CarsJubilee idiots are everywhere, but reading BMS data thru diagnostic ''tool'' (tablet with OBD port) is the basic job, that is part of warranty service at least here in EU. they require service history for battery waranty, so they have to record the data for actualy proving service history and battery health.
Ahh I've heard the service over in EU is much better haha.
Over here the dealership will refuse to scan bms unless they can prove there is an issue that needs scanning. Dealership only does work that they can bill for, otherwise they bill the customer for it. The only reason they would scan bms for free is if you can prove you are experiencing severe degradation.
Is that 100%?
Car is charged to 100%. The BMS says it's only charged to 96.5% but that's the battery buffer built in, to protect the battery from true full charges. The car screens say 100% and it will not let you charge any more than that.
@@CarsJubilee Sorry was just joking, about how many times you said 100%. Good video.
Hahah ah all good
u do realize they want almost 60k to replace that bat u may want to try to make it last longer
I came away with a different conclusion. 1.4% after 10k miles is 14% degradation after 100k miles, way more than I'd like! I'll stick to level 2 charging while at home and only DCFC while traveling
Haha ya I figure most people myself included will not do 10 years of pure dc fast charging.
@@CarsJubilee good point, only 3 years is free
2 years for non reservation owners for ioniq 5. GV60 gets 3 years though for all buyers.
Degradation isn't linear like that. Chances are you'll see close to the same degradation at 10k even if you only level 1 charge.
@@monarodan take a look at Alejandro's comment below. His only degraded 0.5% after 13k miles on L2 charging
What a bs click bait. Not charging to 100% especially on fast charge is what saving your battery.
Hmm I never said I was dc fast charging to 100%. I said I've done almost 100% pure dc fast charging.
Also, very very very few people will charge to 100% every charge session with dcfc. It just doesn't make sense, it's mostly considered a waste of time unless you really need that full 100% charge. That last 10% will take almost 20-30 minutes, same as going from 10% to 80%.
I don't think you'll find any degradation test specifically for an EV that's done dcfc to 100%, it just doesn't make sense.
You will find EVs that charge level 2 to 100% daily. Maybe that's what you are looking for.
paid promotioin indeed .. propaganda video by korean car maker
Haha you must not have seen all videos where I talk about my issues with my ioniq 5...this is the first positive video I've done in quite a while
@@CarsJubilee cool it mate , it is fine promoting crap as you as you got paid
@@lufasumafalu5069wow...don't like this guys content go spmewhere else...geez!