4 Common Mistakes Owners Make, Must Watch Tips & Tricks - Ioniq 5 & Ioniq 6 ,GV60, EV6, E-G80 & GV70
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มิ.ย. 2024
- Have you been driving the wrong way this whole time with your AWD or RWD EV? Do you drive in ECO and IPedal? Or maybe you drive exclusively in ECO? Or maybe you don't charge your car until it hits under 10% charge? Or you think there's something wrong because your range doesn't match epa rating?
If any of that sounds like you, then PLEASE watch this video so you understand what's really happening.
This video could help you drive MORE efficiently plus help you avoid coming back to a dead car.
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00:23 Mistake #1 - Eco + Ipedal = PLEASE NOOO
03:00 Mistake #2 - Driving only in Eco = BUT WHY?
05:19 NO REAL BENEFITS in Eco Drive Mode over Normal/Comfort
06:12 Here's why Normal/Comfort is BETTER!
09:06 Watch These For REAL Range Saving Tips & Tricks
09:18 We Have an Amazon Influencer Store!
09:48 Mistake #3 - Why Did Your Car Die While It Was Parked?
12:36 Mistake #4 - Do you TRULY understand your car's range?
13:35 Real World Example, Test Your Knowledge
16:41 Final Wrap Up
Range Saving Tips Videos:
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Understanding GOM and Range/Efficiency Video:
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#ioniq5 #gv60 #ev6 #hyundaiioniq5 #ioniq6 #ioniq6 #gv70 #g80 #tesla - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Who in their right mind drives 80 mph in a snowstorm?
Haha just an example, but you'd be surprised what people do.
Even just driving 80 in perfect conditions is a red flag for range.
🎅
You’d be surprised in the wild Wild West here in Colorado 😊
My old roommate who crashed our car driving 80 mph in a snow storm
Welcome to Massachusetts
I've got 70,000 Miles on my 2022 Ioniq 5 SEL Bought in July of 2022. It's a LOVE THING!
Sheesh you drove much much more than me haha. Glad it's still going strong!
Wow! that's awesome. Just crossed the first 1,000 miles on my 2024 Ioniq 6 Limited.
@@CarsJubileeBig facts 😂, I got my 2019 Ioniq plugin hybrid in 2020 and I did pizza delivery for 2 1/2 years and I only got 34000 miles...this dude must drive across the country alot 🤷♂️
Hi Victor, congrats on another great video! I wanted to comment on the video you had showing yourself "downshifting" with the reg paddles. I was very confused watching it at first but after playing around with it I now use it quite a lot and I'm enjoying it. Also, understanding the coast feature when on the highway finally made sense to me as well. I recently traveled from Colorado to California and obviously spent a ton of time on the highway. I'm still learning a lot about maximizing the efficiency and fun in my Ioniq5 but it's been a fun learning experience. Just wanted to say thanks for all that you've done for this community!
Thanks Gary, glad you've enjoyed your new EV!
The paddles are a blast, provides that missing engagement that lots of people complain about in EVs. Glad it's been a fun learning experience!
I now have my EV6 AWD for one year and 13‘000 km in summer and winter mostly mountain roads, highway in France, Germany and Switzerland. Also included where track days! I mostly drive Eco with 21°C in the cabin and do not need more power under normal conditions. The car is performant enough that normal people even driving mostly faster than allowed are quite happy. I play around with the pedals but mostly put high regeneration on. To save a soft throttle and forsight is best. Up to now I drive with 17,3 kWh on 100 km! But for sure the hints here are very useful too. The Kia after 54 years of mostly German ‚premium‘ is the best car I ever had. Not one problem in one year and fantastic TCO. P.S. I try to charge mostly with 11 kWh wallbox up to 80% but as the battery has 87 kWh brut you can easily charge to 100% when needed for a long trip.🤔🤓🇨🇭
Perfect timing with a great video. I am 3 months into owning a GV60 Performance. I did not know about the front motor contradiction on eco versus ipedal. Thank you!
Glad to hear, you're welcome! Congrats on the GV60P, hope you are enjoying it!
This answers a lot of questions I didn't know I had. Thanks! (Well, not item 4; that's EV 101.)
Haha glad it helped!
Great advice!
Really thankful to have stumbled upon your channel - been learning lots!
If you had to pick a drive mode/regen combo for city driving and another combo for highway driving, which ones would you prefer?
Glad to hear!
If you have the AWD models, I would stay in normal mode for city and highway. That gives you access to full power when needed but will also disconnect front motor for efficiency when you don't need it. Unless you have a lead foot, then maybe switch to eco haha.
City Regen, ipedal makes a lot of sense if you don't want to be switching levels on the fly.
Highway Regen, either use auto regen at the lowest setting or I'd highly recommend switching between 0 Regen and all of the other levels as needed.
The alternative is to just turn on HDA adaptive cruise on the highway, it uses regen for braking and will switch between levels on its own very efficiently.
@@CarsJubilee great advice, thanks man! Sorry I forgot to mention I recently picked up a 2023 Ioniq 5 AWD, so will definitely give these combos a try :]
I drive a European Ioniq 5 AWD and learned early on to record what percentage of the battery I use on my regular trips, so now I just watch the battery percentage instead of looking at the gom. You could also keep a check of summer vs winter consumption so you don't get caught out in cold weather.
I agree with driving in 'Normal' mode which I find very economical and I use Auto regen level 3, as my preference. Also the throttle response is much better than in Eco, as you say.
Great work, Victor.
Thanks Geoff, ya I wish the car recorded more 'driving history' like temperature, length of drive, etc etc. The app is starting to show energy consumer for each trip but the data is all wrong and showing weird and unrealistic numbers haha. Hopefully they'll get that sorted because that would be pretty helpful for learning and logging data.
@@CarsJubilee I started by writing down the battery percentage at the beginning of the trip and again at the end. I now know when I travel to a particular town/village what percentage of the battery I need. This has not varied by much and I rarely charge anywhere but home....... unless its free!
Yea, this is what I do. A regular weekend errand run uses ~18% in the winter and ~14 in the spring. I don't pay attention to the GOM at all.
ETA: Also, I don't think HMG will ever fix the software for current eGMP cars. While I like my EV6, it definitely feels like they just took the infotainment that they introduced with the Telluride/Pallisade and slapped the minimum required EV settings to sell.
Hi Victor … as always great video with very useful information. Just wanted to let you know that I finally took delivery of my 2023 BMW 530e PHEV. Love the car and am still learning all the features. The all-electric range is only 22 miles (which I was aware of), but with my normal daily driving that was going to be fine. That said, I have been surprised by how long it is taking to fully charge (even a partially charged battery) using the 110 charging cable. The first night I plugged in around 8 pm and the car was not fully charged until 9:30 the next morning! As such, I have decided to install a Level 2 charger with 48 amps. Still will likely take 5-6 hours to fully charge but I don’t want to leave in the morning without a fully charged battery. I’m also going to use the hybrid mode if I know I’ll be driving more than 20 miles, realizing that even in hybrid mode I may end up draining the battery and having to rely on gas only. Obviously, there is no perfect system. A PHEV will help to eliminate range anxiety, but not always allow you to go completely green, while a full EV will require a complete understanding of the efficiency parameters of your particular EV and EV battery technology in general.
Thanks James, congrats on the 530e! We've been contemplating phev vs ev but not many affordable options for 3 row SUV.
I do think eventually I will land in a phev, maybe a Volvo variant.
Wow I agree level 2 charging station would make sense plus if you ever go pure ev you'll also have the charger.
I agree there's a learning curve and it's slightly different for every EV.
I use iPedal with Eco mode with my RWD all the time. There is a small delay in throttle response when going from a complete stop to moving, so in normal mode it's easy to get a big sudden pull while in eco mode it feels a lot smoother.
Ahh that's true, that's exactly what eco mode is trying to do - help smooth out your pedal control so I guess it's doing exactly that for you :)
Normal is much more responsive so that's understandable.
Great video.
The 12 volt battery advice is very useful
Many thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Learned a lot form this video thanks a lot
Glad it helped!
What color is your Ionic - Love it!!
Thanks for the great video 😊
No problem!
Mine is shooting star gray, it's a matte paint finish that looks even better in person!
Great tips! Thanks.
You're welcome!
Great stuff, as usual. One observation about my AWD Ioniq 5 running under Cruise Control that varies from your data. When I am in i-Pedal AND Cruise Control is on the rear motor will not engage UNLESS I step down hard on the accelerator. I tested this at 55mph going up very steep hills- only the rear motor is receiving power. I should add that I drive almost entirely with Cruise Control on and live in a semi-rural area. Along with Lane Keep Assist it makes the car about 85% self-driving and returns very good efficiency. Thus, for me, the best formula has been i-Pedal + Cruise Control. Would like to hear your thoughts/experience with this combo.
Thanks!
I just double checked this while I was driving on the highway with HDA. Once HDA is activated it wipes out manual regen controls. Which makes sense, HDA takes over all braking and accelerating duties and it's actually programmed to try and be as efficient as possible.
So it will shut off the front motor when not needed or will turn it on when you suddenly request power.
I believe even on back roads where hda is not fully enabled, the adaptive cruise system is still doing the same thing and having full control of regen and front motor usage.
But I could be wrong haha, do you still see the ipedal icon or any Regen level icons when you have cruise control enabled? I'm not seeing it on mine, but I was just on the highway and don't recall 100% if it shows on local roads or not.
@@CarsJubilee Yes, if i-Pedal is on when you activate Cruise Control a message appears briefly at the bottom of the driver's screen that says: "i-Pedal Off". It resumes as soon as you interrupt Cruise Control by any means. ALSO, even though Cruise Control is using only the rear motor to propel the car, when you go down hill you can see that IT USES DUAL-MOTOR REGEN!
Just picked up my EV6 AWD. Very helpful video thanks. Apart from ipedal is there a way to tell it to use the front motors? Say when driving conditions mean you'd benefit from 4 wheel drive?
You're welcome, there's actually a snow mode - hold the drive mode button I think?
amazing video, came at the right time! didn't know that about eco mode. only 10 more hours till i pick up my car woohoo!
Haha almost there! Ya I would probably try ECO mode to see what it's like but other than that I don't see much benefit to it.
Very good video. So many tips w/ the Ioniq 5 that help w/ range.
Glad it was helpful!
TIL! Thank you for sharing. I've been driving in Eco since I picked mine up last month, now I know it's not saving much and I didn't know about it nerfing HVAC.
You're welcome, I find normal mode to be much more enjoyable to drive and didn't want people to suffer with eco mode for the supposed sake of efficiency.
This is my first electric car. I'm learning new things everyday. While watching this video I checked my modes and I have been driving in sport mode for the 2 months I've had the Ioniq 5. I hope this is not bad. Thank you for these videos they so help this ole lady.
Haha you're welcome! Nothing wrong with driving in sport mode all the time, it's not bad for the car at all. Just eats into your range a little bit :)
Sports Mode? Always? Well, best save a few bucks for new tires as you will need them very soon. Enjoy.
Hi Victor, thank you for the excellent video with lots of information and advice. Will you be able to do a video on "voice command" of GV60 and Ioniq 5? I think a summary of "syntac" and "words" that the cars can understand will be great. For example a voice command of "Cancel route" is this same as "Route cancel"? Will "Stop GPS guidance" work the same way too? What kind of "voice command" is available? What kind of "key" words that we can use? Thank you so much.
You're welcome! I'm shocked that Hyundai didn't make a list. I haven't been using voice commands much recently as they seemed to have become much less responsive in the recent ota updates.
I'll work on it and see what I can come up with.
This is such a good video. My wife does this and it annoys me. She'll put it in Eco mode and complain that the vehicle (Santa Cruz or Ioniq 6) is so slow and she can never get the mpg that I get when I'm in sport mode. Learn to control your lead foot and it doesn't matter what mode you're driving in. Also I found that using Level 2 regen is my sweet spot where I can still coast with my foot off longer and still keep the battery going longer on each charge. I also don't blast the AC and keep it at around 74-76 in the car while my wife likes it in the mid 60s with a higher fan.
Haha ya skip eco mode :)
Thanks nice to know all this,
Regarts from the Netherlands
Thanks for watching!
I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for making them! :) How is your new born doing?
Thank you, he's finally home! Surprisingly beat the 40 week mark, we are so thankful for all the prayers and support!
Probably use ECO mode if you're under 15% State of Charge and looking for a charging station to save energy.
Ya wouldn't hurt that's for sure :)
Great video for someone who hasn't owned an EV but is waiting the launch/delivery of the 2025 Ioniq 5
They fixed the super slow acceleration ECO with a TSB, my 2023 came with preconditioning and ECO was unusable, I had the TSB applied now ECO is not "golf cart mode". It is dumb that the 12 volt cuts off charging at 20%, I could see 5% or less but I have 1/5 of my charge to use and I end up bricking the car.
Ya I didn't even bother taking it on for that fix because I don't use eco haha.
Agreed 5% cutoff for 12v would make much more sense or let us change it ourselves.
@@CarsJubilee 90% of this car could be fixed and perfect with software changes. Let me turn on battery preconditioning, when I touch the handle to lock if the passenger door is open delay the lock, set the profiles to the key fob and not the console.
Enjoy your videos, however my 9/22 build EV6 (w/ factory battery preconditioning) does not fully 'lock out' the front motor in ECO mode. It still kicks in on-demand during initial acceleration (under 15mph) and at highway speeds when acceleration is requested.
Thanks! Hmm have you noticed that it happens with slight incline on road surfaces? You got it right about the initial acceleration from a standstill up to about 15 mph but from that point on the front motor should be shutting off an eco mode unless you're going up some kind of incline.
Try going foot to the floor on a relatively flat road and see if you can get it to trigger both motors at speeds above 15 mph. Make sure you're not in ipedal and make sure if you're switching between Eco and normal that you give Eco a couple seconds without any accelerator pedal input to sort itself out.
As you can see in my video I went foot to the floor and it would not trigger both motors. And my gv60 is the exact same way, it will only trigger with inclines or speeds below 15 mph. I would imagine the ev6 should be the same.
@@CarsJubilee I do not use iPedal, generally using ECO w/ LVL 3 Regen in Auto Mode (HDA not HDA2). The only point being ECO mode does not fully disable the front motor
That's very interesting, if that's what's happening for you in eco mode then that's even less reason to drive in eco mode because normal would be doing the exact same thing. Unless you like the mushy pedal feel :)
@@CarsJubilee Actually not particularly 'mushy', but definitely less acceleration than in normal mode (factory battery preconditioning).and only about a 6 mile range benefit per GOM
Thanks for another great video. A question. Suppose you have regen to low, and you press the brake pedal, does it still regen or does it use the friction brakes?
I think it still uses regen, then what is the purpose of different regen settings?
If you have it set to level 0, pressing the brake pedal will not initiate regen braking (unless you do 10 sequential foot braking stops or something like that). In all other levels yes, pressing brake pedal will initiate regen.
The problem is it's hard to see or feel when the switch over happens between regen and friction brakes when only using the physical brake pedal.
Using the paddles gives you a clear sense of what is being used.
The different regen settings are there so owners can fine tune things to match how they want the regen system to behave AND adjust how heavy the accelerator pedal feels AND adjust how much regen braking you get as you lift off accelerator. These all apply even if you primarily use the physical foot brake.
Great video! I work really hard to research the heck out of things I buy including my new 2024 Ioniq 6 Limited, and I think at least 3 of these tips were things I did not know. Thanks! Regarding the AWD on demand depending on how hard you press the throttle, I noticed this, but do you know if there is a way to force AWD all the time, for example if it is snowing? Perhaps Snow mode accomplishes this.
Yes snow mode should maintain AWD full time. Otherwise if you keep it in IPedal that will also force on AWD full time.
As an EV driver for the last 6 years, I have figured out most of these factors, however this was a very clear presentation for maybe new EV drivers.
excellent! You didn't mention the AUTO Regen and how your video about it explains why maybe this is the best setting outside of iPedal users. I don't use iPedal much though.
Ahh I really wanted to add that on but I'm realizing the majority of owners will never touch auto regen.
I'll probably have to do another video on it at some point
Hey Victor. Some good points you made here. I should send this to potential Hyundai group EV buyers.
I made the mistake of letting my car sit below 20% and came to a dead 12v battery. I already knew about this issue due to channels like yours but hoped it didn't happen to me. I only let it sit on the street as my builder kept leaving screws on my drive and I was trying to avoid getting a flat tire tyre (which I only got a few weeks ago).
Recovery were able to come out at now cost to me and boost the battery. However, the dealership said they need the car to come on a truck to diagnose the fault, as when the battery is boosted it can be fine for a some time (as you know) and they can only diagnose the 12v when it is fully flat. Though the recovery company Hyundai use (AA here in Britain) have a policy to try to fix the cars to avoid towing. The dealership basically say you need to try to ask them to not boost it and contact the dealership for them to explain. They should just trust customers had the issue (as it is a common issue) and replace the battery.
Some annoyances from me on this issue:
Firstly, I think the car should keep a log of these faults (even if it means an extra sensor in the 12v battery) and the Bluelink app should notify you if it looks like the 12v is running flat.
Secondly I don't know why the car doesn't charge the 12v battery down to a much lower main battery percentage, say 5%.
Thirdly, I think Hyundai should carry out gradual recall and replace all the 12v batteries/ 12v trickle chargers and replace with Lithium Iron batteries (for added resilience in charge cycles) and add a sensor combined with software update to improve trickle charging. They know about the issues so should just sort it out from the start, not wait for the problems, then see if they can diagnose to only replace with a similar or same battery.
Ahh man it got you quick Yousha! I think my 12V is ready to die as soon as it stops getting charged, my amber charge indicator is constantly on. At this point I'm not willing to even let it sit for 30 min haha.
Sorry that happened to you, agreed they really need to sort this out long term. 20% is too high a threshold and these batteries are dying too fast.
@@CarsJubilee Yes it did.
Oh that is a shame. It seems the likelihood of this happening increases with time. Before, I was hoping it was just a batch that was impacted.
Hopefully your dealership sorts it out quickly. May also be worth getting a boost pack if you need it on the road at all times (at the expense of having it fixed) unless recovery can come out quickly for free.
Wow great video and info... I learned quite a bit... several info... tips like the eco mode... I never heared those info anywhere else... I'm looking for an Ioniq 5 AWD... Québec Winter... Seems like I will watch a few more... keep up this awesome content... Sorry for my English
Thanks! No problem, I hear it's a very very long wait for an ioniq 5 there.
@@CarsJubilee ... Yeah it was... there was like a 2 years waiting list for all EVs (except Tesla) even though the Province of Québec has the better incentive in Canada... 5000 from the federal governement and 7000 from the provincial... now theres EVs... available...there are a few available in several dealer lots...I saw three EV6 that you could purchase imediately a few weeks ago... high interest rate... has made people cancel quite a few reservations I believe... Sorry for my English
Glad to hear more are available now, the higher interest rates will understandably deter some buyers.
I find the best use of eco mode is in tight slow maneuvering, say in very tight parking lots where small movements are desired. The slow throttle response helps there, otherwise it's useless.
Ah that's true in tight spaces that is helpful!
I don't recommend i-peddle to anyone unless they like it as it's not as efficient. I do all normal driving in "normal" and usually switch to eco once I'm on the highway for a long trip just to ensure I make it there and back without worrying about the A/C and heat being on the lowest fan setting.
100% agreed, I'm the same way. Once on I'm on the highway with large open roads then I'll put it in eco or I'll put it in HDA.
Great tips. Thx
Glad it was helpful!
Update..recall for all Hyundai electric vehicles due to software issues. Love this channel and has help my family get the most range in out Ionic 6
Thanks!
I often keep my Car Scanner app running and have a box that shows if power is on to the brake lights or not in red. If I am slowing and see they are not on and cars are behind me I will sometimes touch the brake pedal to engage the lights - don't want to be rear ended.
Ya I've gotten into the habit of trying to tap the physical brakes while slowing down since I'm not really using my feet anyways :)
When I had my AWD EV6 GT Line I ran it in ECO + Lvl 3 Auto regen. Seemed like the most efficient for me. I'm looking into buying a RWD Ioniq 6 now though and looking forward to being able to use I-pedal with Eco mode. I also disabled the Econ - climate settings though so I had full AC.
Hmm I see a lot of people use auto Regen level 3. I'm curious why? I don't think that let's auto Regen actually do anything except keep it in level 3?
I have an IONIQ 6 SE RWD. I drive it in ECO mode and i-PEDAL most of the time. I get about 400+ miles per 94% to full charge
@@CarsJubilee it will allow it to coast mose than strictly level 3 would I believe. In the early EV6 days there were some guys who ran efficiency tests in each mode and I believe level 3 auto in evo won out as most efficient. Not by a ton though.
Hmm based on my usage auto level 3 is the exact same as manual level 3. You should try auto level 1 as that lets it toggle level 1-3. You should be able to feel and see the difference, with no car ahead it should toggle down and with cars closing in it will toggle up. In auto level 3 it just stays in 3.
@@CarsJubilee When I get my RWD Ioniq 6 I will most likely just keep it in i-pedal. Only reason I didn't keep it in i-pedal on my EV6 was because it cancelled ECO mode.
I've found that ECO mode is helpful when there are passengers who are very sensitive to acceleration.
That is, instead of retraining my foot to accelerate super slowly.
That's a good point that I didn't take into account, it's no mistake in that instance :)
Thanks is just common sense under twenty percent range parking is brilliant thank you
I almost exclusively drive in manual level 3 and flip to iPedal when slowing down promptly for example for a roundabout. My GOM shows 392 miles on a full charge, so that works best for me.
Doing it right!
Even in Eco mode the front wheel drive will engage if you try to accelerate quickly or are going up a steep grade.
Yes to steep grades, and it will come on at speeds below 15mph.
But it should shutting off after that. I showed in the video going foot to floor in eco and the front would not engage. Are you in ipedal?
@@CarsJubilee You might be right about that. I’ll check again to verify but I thought I had seen it engage the front motor when under hard acceleration. It definitely engages on steep grades.
Also, remember that the range displayed is guessing based on recent driving habits so it will have a high range if you've mostly done city driving so don't trust it if you are about to do a long trip and there are a lot of apps that will estimate the battery usage for you and you can add a buffer to account for any cold, elevation, wind, that you have that day. All of these things affect gas powered cars as well, but there are a lot more gas stations than fast charging stations so it's not nearly as noticeable. Lastly, make sure you check that the charging stations you plan to use are working via a reliable app before you leave as I trusted Google Maps once and it took me to a station that was taken down while they rebuilt the Sheetz that was next to it.
Oh boy discussing charging stations could be an hour long video.
Research like you said is super important, but even then that EA charger that is supposedly working before you get there could go offline at a moments notice. Can't tell you how many times I've seen the EA app not match current conditions at my local station, app says all are available but I get there are and 2 are offline.
I agree with Jubilee's analysis and recommendations. Based on other videos of various tests, I drive in Auto regen. I do not want to get in the habit of not using the brake pedal. Regarding range, I have run interstate and highway tests so I have an idea of the range and efficiency at various speeds and conditions. I do not believe i can go 200 miles at 80 mph and that is an issue. I have a stretch to drive that is 200 miles and there are no chargers between here and there. Hopefully, the chargers scheduled to be placed in service this summer/fall will go on-line. Good review.
Thanks!
Ah 200 miles at 80mph would definitely be a stretch in the ioniq 5. Maybe possible with almost no heat/AC in a very mild climate and very flat elevation.
With the Ionic 5, I did a trip from around Salzburg, Austria to Munich, Germany and back on the autobahn. Up to 100 MPH and a decent part at 80 MPH. We used around 60% charge on the battery for the trip. Granted, the temperature was mild and I did not use the AC much on the trip up. I am curious to see what winter will do to the range.
Haha it's going to drop quite a bit in winter time. Probably lose 30% to heating and efficiency loss would be my guess.
@@CarsJubileeCommute to and from work is 150 Km round trip. Car is parked in a garage at the office, outside at home. With 500+ Km range in good weather, the 30% drop will still get me to and from work two days without charging. We don't get Canada cold, but we do get some cold snaps and enough snow.
@@jhc5760 300 km in cold weather may be a stretch if not kept in a heated garage. I think Jubilee's estimate of a 30% drop is accurate but wet or snowy roads will cut the range even further. It helps to be prepared for any eventuality. Good luck.
Thanks, but you really need to get the ECO Mode update. It works flawlessly now, and I use it most of the time with great efficiency. Adding iPedal in town also adds a lot of energy back into my battery. Win win! However, Normal was fine when ECO was still unfixed.
I had the pre update eco for many months and after realizing what it was really doing I stayed in Normal mode. Even if I got the eco mode fix I just don't really have any reason to use it when I can replicate it in normal mode.
But some people seem to prefer the smoother feeling of eco mode in which like you said the update is a must to make it usable again.
@@CarsJubilee I get that. Everyone is different. Since ECO is similar to ice driving imo, it just seems more in since with other traffic on the road, and I don’t have to hit the breaks as much as I seem to do in normal mode. In the city I do ECO and i-Pedal and I’m consistently getting 4+ in warmer weather FYI. Thanks for the vids!
…more in sync I meant
You’re totally correct I cannot stand Eco mode. Of course mine has the strangled version of eco, but I probably still would not like it. Why would I want my car to feel like a 1981 Ford Escort? 😂 I mostly drive the car in normal mode using auto regen . I just wish it would stay on auto regen instead of having to select it every time you start the car. It seems to make the car feel spunkier, and it still delivers very good economy. I’ve averaged 3.8 miles/ kWh for the first 2100 miles. Mostly city in suburban driving except for a 200 miles each way trip to the Chicago area That’s good enough for me.
Haha agreed normal + auto regen all the way! Ya I do wish the car would save all previous regen settings.
Nice efficiency as well!
I need some advice in battery range issues. I purchased my Ionic5 1 month ago. The first month a 100% charge would give a range of 520-530 Km. Last weekend I made my first long trip 650km. I had to stop 4 times and I used superchargers to charge Justo to 80% of the battery. At 80% would give me a range of 280km which I thought was very low. Now that I am at home I charge the car to 100% but it only gives me a range of 400Km which is very low compared to the initial 530Km. Do you know if there any performance issues with the batteries? Is this normal in the ionic5? Is there a way I can see in the computer the battery performance? I hope you can help.
Range is highly dependent on how fast you are driving and the weather. The faster you drive or the faster average speed will result in less range, EVs are less efficient at higher speeds.
The hotter or colder it is, the more you use AC or heating and that also can drastically reduce range. On a hot day, AC use can reduce range by 20% or more.
My guess is there's nothing wrong but if you track the exact same route, similar weather and traffic conditions and it's drastically different (lower than before) then there could be an issue. Otherwise take a close look at how, where and when you were driving to see why things changed. Hope that helps!
Question regarding the first topic:
I have seen that the Ioniq 6 can customize your own driving profile and switch off the second motor in the settings. Would this also be overwritten if I turn on the i-pedal or could that be the solution to have both eco and i-pedal on at the same time?
That's a great question, I'm not 100% sure. But if you have that option checked and then watch your energy force distribution page while in ipedal you should be able to test it yourself.
Thank you for tip 4
No problem!
Hi Victor
Interesting tutorial. Quick question: just got a ioniq 6 with a full battery charge, but it says my range is 238 instead of 338 stated by Hyundai. Would you know why is that?
The car is just telling you the estimated range based on your recent driving habits. It usually is factoring in the past 1 or 2 cycles of driving and charging.
238 miles of range sounds like you are either experiencing cold weather climate or you are driving 75-80mph or some combination of both things.
EPA range usually can be achieved in warm weather and driving near the speed limits.
This is interesting. I have been told by multiple sources that there is no way to shut off the front motor on the ionic 5. I thought that it was ridiculous that you couldn't. I'll go right to a Hyundai mechanic which I guess is what I should have done in the first place.
I'm not 100% about the exact details but according to the car's graphs it can disconnect the front motor which in theory would mean energy savings since you would be able to run on rear motor only.
I've been considering getting a RWD model for more range but this vid is making it seem like i can get the same efficiency depending on my driving style with AWD. Is that correct or am i missing something?
Regarding Mistake #3; Do you know what battery chemistry (what kind of battery) the 12VDC battery is? Flooded Lead Acid/Gell/LiIon/NiMH/Other?
I believe it is just a regular lead acid battery. Some owners have had success changing to Lithium Ion.
This is my wife's car (Advanced AWD). I have it set to ECO mode and Auto Regen. The accelerator feels okay. Is Auto Regen the best alternative for highest efficiency?
I think it comes down to the driver. Auto Regen uses the sensors and cameras to detect the car ahead and adjust accordingly. But it can only detect that one car directly ahead.
An engaged driver can see well beyond one car ahead and can decide earlier when and how to deal with that. Maybe coasting vs regen. But that takes a lot of concentration and an understanding of when to coast and when to regen, and may not even make noticeable gains.
I'd say the majority of people will see best efficiency in auto regen if they know how to use it. Just make sure it's not in auto regen level 3 haha. Heard a lot of people making that mistake.
hi Victor We have owned our 2023 Ioniq limited since November 1; we live in Vermont. Today I could not open 3 of the door handles due to frost and the charger "door" was also frozen shut. I preheated the cabin twice and this did not help. After some time I was able to get 2 of the door handles to open from the outside however the door itself was frozen shut still after trying to open the door from the interior too. Have other people had these problems and does anyone have remedies? Please do not suggest the hairdryer, I cannot imagine that is a possible solution when I'm in town during a snowstorm.
Oh boy, I've seen people try to gently hit the handles to try and chip everything off. Or the pour hot water method.
Neither are ideal, may have to come up with some snow or ice covers for future icing events.
Nice explanations.
Let's add some of my experiences and physics.just for fun and learning for others. You'll know this. About the 4th mistake.
First I'm living in europe and we have the WLTP range.
My ioniq 5 project 45 AWD will make this range when I drive with 100km/h (102 on cruise) with an temperature of 20 degrees celsius.
If I drive 1 km/h faster my range reduces with 2 km (rough expectation)
Somtheing as ..Every km faster than 100 reduces the range with 2% meand that when driving 140 km/ the range will be 80% less as with 100% (It's in practice a little less but easy for calculations.),
When driving 90 km/h (10 km slower) the range will increase with 20%.
Seconds (cols/warm) The law of Boyle Gaylussac tells that when temperature ibcreases in a closed volume with 1% also the pressure increases with 1%
But my car is not driving in a closed volume....
In other words..When the temperature increases 1 % (in degrees kelvin of coarse) we will only have to push through 1% less weight of air at any given speed. 1% is in normal situations about 3 degrees of celsius difference (also 3 degrees Kelvin). We can expect an extra usage of 1% (1% less range) for every 3 degrees celsius difference lower temp. This EXCLUDES the energy usage for climatization.With 15 degrees celsius (no need for climatization) my range will be 2% less than with 21 degrees celsius. If I should drive 1 km/h slower than 100 the range will be the same with 15 degrees as with 21 ...only driving a few seconds/h longer.
When I need to drive with 30 degrees celsius I'll use climatization (22 - 23 degrees in the car).
The extra usage of the climatisation is not very important for range because the car needs less energy to drive......until we are coming into a traffic jam. Only effect is that my range is not increasing more because the higher temp.
(This differences we also notice in petrol usage in ICE cars).
Also all this is based on experiences with no differences in wind.
When we are driving in rain we also have to push the rain out of the way with the car...this is heavier than air.....the range will drop depending on how heavy rain.
(WLTP range means 4 km driving / % charge....keeping a reserve of ca 10%)
Thanks, great write up!
One thing I love seeing because I'm a geek about range, is Tesla's in car range data. It tells me all the things that hurt my range during each drive like elevation and wind. I wish that were available on the ioniq 5 and gv60. It really helps people understand why each drive is different.
Do you know if the
Whats your feeling on charging limits? 80 vs90 vs 100 (on level 2 charging)
I try to stay close to 80% that seems to be the general consensus, especially if you are level 2 charging at home and can charge whenever.
Regarding ECO mode, I think it is useful for us elderly persons, who are used to fossilcars, which performs badly at low revolutions. We are many, who out of habit press the accelerator much harder than needed with an EV, which has full Torque all the way up from zero revolutions. Using ECO mode and cruise to regulate acceleration helps getting out of bad habits, and saves wear on tires and transmission.
Yes that's a great point, one I didn't think about so thank you for reminding me of that.
Eco definitely still has it's uses.
Just not really from an efficiency standpoint but absolutely as a personal preference.
Does the eco mode thing apply to the EV6 GT? My wife get too frighten using Normal or sport mode on the GT. And she said she will keep it at eco mode.
Yup you bet, that's a good way to keep that beast of a car under control :)
What do you recommend for max dc % and max ac % charge?
Most people try to keep charge levels between 20%-80% whenever possible.
Above 20% to avoid dead 12v, below 80% for battery health. But you are supposed to charge to 100% once a month or so to help re balance the battery cells.
I don't know if the other egmps are the same, but I feel like I almost have to use eco in stop-and-go traffic because it launches so hard. And I only have one motor.
Dude, the efficiency displayed is not even in real time and sometimes I get obsessed when driving, even on eco mode! and it is displaying on the dashboard 2.8m/kh and then I remembered your video, where you explained the real efficiency number is the one in the main info, under the avg and mine is 3m/kh. (miami-disney that's an *ahem* 75+ mph trip) Also I want to add, treat your ev like your old ice car, don't get obsessed with the efficiency number but how frequent you charge it (comparable with how frequent you filled up your car) otherwise you will not enjoy the perks of normal mode amd chase that 300+ range unicorn. The way I see my ev6 AWD, it is like having a v8 car performance but with a corolla gas tank
Hahaha love that, v8 performance with corolla gas tank. Indeed very true and an excellent reminder. We are spoiled by the performance.
Ya the first 6+ months of ownership I was chasing higher efficiency numbers for fun. Nowadays I'm mostly just driving it how I want and not worrying about efficiency.
But I'm glad I went through that efficiency craze phase so that I could learn how to drive efficiently when the need arises.
Honestly, out of all four "common mistakes", I think only the third -- charge state vs 12V battery -- really qualifies as "common" or even "mistake". The range stuff, yeah...people new to EVs have a learning curve, but EV owners in general understand that stuff. And even gas cars lose significant range if they're driven fast. The only reason they get away with not losing range to heat the cabin is they're so inefficient in the first place.
As far as the Eco/i-Pedal stuff goes, well...yeah, i-Pedal keeps the front motor engaged. But if you watch carefully, in Eco mode the front motor doesn't get nearly the power it would without Eco. It's engaged just to provide the braking needed for i-Pedal. Maybe you lose a tad efficiency, but Eco is still helping. The two don't literally negate each other. And to your second point, _that's what it's there for_ ! Maybe you don't like the lack of power, but the whole point is the same as all the other driver assist: sure, you could do it on your own, but many people prefer to let the car take over some of the mental workload.
You don't need 0-60 in 4 seconds just to get on the freeway, if you're driving properly. Planning ahead is critical for all driving scenarios, and people did just fine in cars that had 15 second 0-60 times or even worse. Sure, every now and then there's a short on-ramp that's extra challenging, but that's no reason to just dismiss the entire driver-assist feature out of hand.
So the whole idea that one should never use Eco and i-Pedal at the same time is just bogus. Maybe it's good to be aware of how they interact, but you can still get the benefits of both, if you want.
If you don't like how the car drives in Eco, that's fine...but telling others they're making a mistake if they use it? Absurd click-bait.
These are some of the most common things I've been asked about or seen discussed on the forums. You might not be making these mistakes if you are doing it on purpose. But unfortunately many people are doing it thinking it's the most efficient way to drive, I'm trying to help them understand that it is indeed not.
It's a common mistake if that person's goal is to get best efficiency when combining eco mode and ipedal.
The live power distribution meter makes it quite plain and simple. Ipedal cancels out eco mode because ipedal keeps both motors permanently engaged. Eco mode in every other level will disengage the front motor above 15mph and it will not come back on except when the road inclines to a certain level. But if ipedal is on, eco mode cannot disengage the front motor. At that point you are driving in normal mode (if you have the fixed mode).
Some people want the slower eco mode response, if that's what they want then it's not a mistake. But many people choose eco mode blindly thinking it automatically gets better efficiency.
Again, it's a mistake if you think it's the ONLY way to get best efficiency. I stated that very clearly in the video. Not sure how it's click baity, these are common mistakes talked about at length on the forums because so many people are unaware. I'm not saying every owner is making these mistakes.
I have the ioniq 6 sel awd 20inch wheels. Will i get more range if I switch to 20lbs 18inch wheels?
Assuming the 20inch wheels are heavier (which is probably the case), then you should see a pretty significant increase in range.
Bumping from 20inch down to 19inch wheels with my model y is about a 15 mile range gain.
Also, iPedal doesn't turn on brake lights until you completely take your foot off of the gas pedal, even though you can rapidly decelerate while the pedal is partially depressed. Good way to get rear ended and possibly be found at fault...
another point, the gimped ECO mode has a TSB that restores performance in that mode to pre-battery preconditioning levels. It makes a world of difference and definitely recommended.
wtf that doesn't sound safe....seems like there ought to be like a two-stage light or something tied to partial depression so at least visually you'd be able to see a change regarding braking
Ah that's true, I keep thinking they will push an ota update to fix that. But Tesla and many other EVs appear to have the same issue where brake lights don't activate till pretty late or only under very very significant braking.
Ya I mentioned that in the video, but I opted not to make an extra visit just for that because I've had the non nerfed or gimped eco modes on my ioniq 5 and gv60 and honestly once I realized what it was really doing I never went back to it. Useless to me either way since I can get the same efficiency without it haha.
Ya I agree, seems to be a pretty common issue with EVs. I see plenty of Teslas slowing down significantly with no brake lights coming on. Seems like an industry wide issue that IIHS should address.
Converter from j177a to Tesla . Tesla is soon available to other cars for charging .pls tell me which converter works
I don't believe they are mass producing that adapter as of yet.
Also I believe Tesla may have the correct j1772 adapter present at Tesla chargers.
Looking at getting a GV60 for the wife next year so appreciate the tips. Interesting that the AWD EVs pretty much use the same logic as Hyundai's HTRAC AWD in their ICE vehicles (I have a Santa Cruz) but use the opposite drive wheels. On my Santa Cruz it stops sending power to the rear if you don't press the accelerator very hard. Even if you "lock" the vehicle in AWD mode it auto cancels over 37 MPH / 60 KPH to save fuel. Oddly the Santa Cruz doesn't have an Eco mode, only Normal, Sport and Snow. And no way I would be limiting the A/C here in FL even if it did gain some range, its just too darn hot most of the time.
Based on this video and others it seems the most common misconception is the need for AWD models with all the trimmings and seeking efficiencies. Nine months with the SE RWD long range battery using the various modes I find little differences between ECO and Normal. The Sport Mode, zero Regen is the most powerful and just for show. Using ECO and manual regen 3, the car wakes up with these, yields over 5 mpkwh in local area. Highway driving at 64 mph yields 3.8. The biggest issue as to the subject, “mistakes, you mention, are for the dual motor models and appart of comfort and nice to have items, to those seeking efficiency and longer range, the RWD delivers. As you mentioned, the greatest factor as to efficiency, is the driver. Those that “drive the EV like they stole it” are having fun. They use Sports Mode, zero regen for max performance. As to the super efficiency types, each one must find what gives the highest mikes per based on roads, wx and traffic. Thanks.
Ya by all accounts I've heard great things about RWD model, in my 4 season climate and not having the space to stash winter tires I don't really have that option (plus I do enjoy the extra speed haha).
I'm curious if eco mode pedal feel with RWD is not as mushy or heavy as in AWD? I've never driven any of the egmp RWD models but I really don't like it in the AWD.
You sure about regen 0 being least efficient? Everything I’ve read elsewhere is saying in highways and really anywhere above 20mph as little regen as possible is best for range bc you’re coasting more.
Rec I’ve heard is iPedal in city at 15-20 or below and Auto on highway or higher speeds
It all depends on when you use them. I a believer in changing regen based on speed and surroundings. I try to use level 0 for coasting as much as possible and then manually change through the levels to come to a stop as needed.
Auto Regen accomplished almost the same thing automatically so it's a very good option for those that don't want to do it manually.
I pedal is great up to 15-20mph, after that it's forcing the front motor to stay on needlessly.
@@CarsJubilee Happen to know if there is any easier way to go from Auto and iPedal and back? Seems needlessly complicated. Getting to Auto is easy enough (hold right paddle) but getting back involves holding right paddle to get to level 0, and then left paddle 3x.
@beamer908 if you only need ipedal temporarily, like bringing car to full stop while in auto regen, you can left paddle hold which calls up max regen/same as ipedal until you let go of the left paddle. That's how I full stop the car when using auto regen.
What if I don't have a front motor? Should I not have ipedal and eco mode on at the same time?
Oh you answered this. I had already turned off the HVAC limitations under eco mode. So eco mode just changes the pedal I guess lol. Ty
If you have RWD then you can drive with any combination you want with minimal effect on efficiency.
I like Eco mode for when my dogs are in the car. Mushy, slow, and smooth acceleration is welcome then.
Ahh fair point haha
I picked up my Ioniq 5 during a terrible ice storm. I was driving on the highway with the defrost on max but it literally was not hot enough/enough blow to melt the ice freezing to my windshield. Was this because i was getting nerfed in ECO mode LOL?
Oooh wow interesting, it's very possible eco mode was limiting power going to heat. Definitely try taking it out eco next time and see if that helps. Another possible scenario is a malfunctioning heat pump, we had quite a few reports from other owners of non working heat or a/c. Many of them drove off the lot for the first time only to realize by the time they got home that it wasn't working right.
does the panoramic roof close to avoid the sun?
Yes there is an electronic sun shade, very handy
The ratings you can hear might be rear back seat belts catching the back pillar
That is a common rattle point but mine was a trunk rattle created by the service dept. They eventually fixed it by shimming the latch.
So I paddle will automatically lock on the 4WD because it needs 2 electric motor to max regenbreaking?
But why not during the e paddle breaking only use 2 EV motors. If you are driving or coasting you don't use the breaking?
The IONIQ 5 is really gapped by the IONIQ 6 in general efficiency. I’m getting 408 miles on RWD SE IONIQ 6. Disclaimer, I guess it’s just estimating that.
Ya the aero on the ioniq 6 is very impressive, if I didn't need or want AWD I would be very interested in the RWD ioniq 6.
How about FWD?? Is it also a mistake to turn on ECO mode and I-Pedal at the same time??
If you have a non AWD model it's actually RWD. You can use eco and ipedal together in RWD models and it won't hurt efficiency.
@@CarsJubilee I ask because my EV is a FWD. I think FWD and RWD are not the same.
If ECO mode is useless then why does it effects range when switching from ECO to Normal? My EV6 it’s like a 25-30 mile difference when toggle between modes. I use ECO in the city traffic is bad here so I like the slower pedal for that on the highway I use normal I rarely use sport unless on fwy with little or no traffic for fun
Driving 80mph in a snowstorm sets off different red flags for me.
Haha I've seen and heard crazier. I definitely don't but they are people out there that will and will wonder why their range is abysmal.
FWIW: on long trips, I find watching how the GOM drops compared to the (Google Maps) distance to the next charger is pretty useful (keeping in mind changes in winds, road conditions, hilliness...).
That is, if the GOM is dropping 5 miles for every 4 miles I drive, that ratio seems relatively constant for quite a while.
(I'm usually thinking of it in terms of "how much does the GOM think I'll have left when I arrive at the charging station?", but the math is the same.)
Ah that's interesting, I wish the car screen would show remaining energy. I've found using car scanner is quite helpful since that shows more data. But looking at your phone on a drive is not ideal haha.
@@CarsJubilee Agreed ... though I'm using Android Auto, so actually looking at Google Maps in the infotainment screen on the right (Ioniq 5).
By the way under named situations also ICE cars have a reduced range. We tested the EV6 AWD 333 PS/608 Nm against Alfa-Romeo Stelvio Qudrofoglio with 510 Ferrari-PS and 600 Nm. So why that is only a discussion with EV? Because people do not want to hear about truth, physics and facts but create their own universe. I lately made to high mountain routes and 450 km roundtrip. Staying overnight in a nice hotel with 11 kWh wallbox (SoC at arrival 68%). Next day we continued back home where we arrived with 72%. What ICE car could ever do that? So the issues mostly are rediculous once you understood EV driving really😎🇨🇭
That's true, I think EVs just see it more on the efficiency screens etc.
Bit late but... Gas cars are also less efficient in those conditions nature adds resistance and you expend more energy ... or you have air con on etc etc... this seems to be a big EV issue but the weather affects all vehicles. It like you have to be a scientist to drive an EV no it's just obvious you'll use more energy in extreme weather conditions regardless. (PS waiting for my 2024 Volvo XC40 🙂
That's very true, just less noticeable and less of an issue because of gas stations vs charging stations. Ahh any interest in waiting for the EX30?
With ICE vehicles as well, driving 80 mph will severely drop your MPG, and range.
True true
i have a Tesla since 2016 that has NEVER had a dead 12V battery .. my battery is over 4 years old & has never been dead .Hyundai 's 12V battery support system truly sucks
Hmm, you classify them as mistakes for #1 or #2? It's like saying you don't need HDA if you drive properly... Ultimately, it's an aid and down to your preferences.
Hm I'm not sure about that comparison. HDA plain and simple helps drive the car for you. ECO mode is not so plain and simple, for example using eco mode and ipedal together completely cancels out and overrides what eco mode is trying to do. I call them mistakes because most drivers who choose to drive in eco mode do it to achieve better efficiency. But then they choose ipedal and unknowingly cancel out any aid they would have gotten from eco mode.
For drivers trying to achieve max efficiency, I would say those two things are mistakes and not down to preference. They are common mistakes made by people trying to maximize efficiency.
There are some that choose eco mode because they want the dull pedal response to help them drive smoother, for them because they aren't doing it for max efficiency I would agree it's not a mistake and down to their preference. But for most, it's a mistake. I can't tell you how many times I've seen AWD owners say they do eco and ipedal and wonder why their efficiency is soso. It's probably the most common efficiency mistake I've come across from owners on forums.
I'M calling AAA 4a jump start in a 6 mo old Hyundai Ioniq6 Limited w/ 3550 miles parked in my driveway 3 days with 90% main battery charge
Okay is it me or anyone else have this problem but when I turn on my cooled seats and windows up it doesn’t cool my back properly..
Hmm mine work really well haha. Does your local dealer have one you can try to use as a comparison?
@@CarsJubilee okay I might have too look into it
So I should drive in Normal on my RWD Ioniq 6 and i-Pedal doesn't matter?
Since you are RWD, you don't have a front motor to shut off.
So you should be able to achieve the same efficiency in all drive modes and ipedal.
@CarsJubilee okay, perfect! That's what I was getting from everything you said in the video but I wanted to make sure. Thank you!
I'm probably going to keep it in Normal mode for the slight boost in power and also for the other reason you mentioned (no effect on the climate control).
@TriageReflex you got it!
@CarsJubilee out of curiosity, what's your take on Auto regen though? Worth it or not?
@TriageReflex I'm a huge auto regen fan, I made some videos on it on the channel.
It's kind of like adaptive braking/adaptive pedal weight/adaptive one pedal driving. Let's you coast when appropriate and then ramps up regen when needed.
Great for medium traffic conditions when you don't want full on HDA but you still want some kind of driver aide on. The car essentially brakes for you to a certain extent.
Takes some practice to fully understand but I really like using it on the highway when there's traffic and people are weaving in and out.
ive never seen numbers above 330 in my Ioniq6 Limited.. the car does about 265 real miles no matter which setting it is on.. now using MY drive settings & having more fun though my AC has failed at 3600 and is no longer cooling .. 6 months in & servce time
Oh boy, your ownership experience with your ioniq 6 sounds even worse than mine with my ioniq 5.
Sounds like yours needs to go back to Hyundai as well. How many days out of service (yours should include days with non working AC)? I imagine you should meet lemon law buy back criteria.
@CarsJubilee still driving it .. i think the 12V battery is a dud frankly.. only pulls 13.3V static.. but the ac.. maybe a breaker or fuse ? no codes kick..just the check electrical system ! greeting chime & a stupid red battery lamp right.. the service shops are jammed jere with ICE recalls.. i ordered a 12 V battery monitor .. waiting on delivery.. may get a booster like you uss.. ill thrash it until they tow it. $ 854 US a montb is no joke !
@@CarsJubilee get this now.. get in I6 today... no warning lamps ... none... & AC seems like it's working again.... is Hyundai sending out defective vehicle updates?? gonna take a spin and see if anything changes.. but i did nothing .
@theduckthatquacks6445 whoa weird, I would imagine the issues will come back but curious what it is.
the shops are too backed up with Hyundai 's 87 recall campaigns
I never use ECO drive mode
How can you get 300 - 350 miles from a full charge Ioniq 5?
I am in Canada and I get a little over 400k. It looks like you would be gettng 500k
It's possible but only in the best and most ideal conditions.
In warm weather, traveling near the speed limit, very gentle on the accelerator pedal and making sure to use only Regen braking for all braking maneuvers.
In city style driving like that is how I averaged 350 miles of range and on the highway staying below 60mph is how I consistently saw close to 300 miles.
But that's not a realistic speed if you road trip a lot and live near higher speed limits highways. If you need to 70mph the range drops pretty drastically. Probably 200-250 miles of range.
You are gonna get crappy range driving 80 MPH in a heavy snow storm as you will most likely end up dead
i guess you can boost your 12 v from another car when its dies
Yup sure can, not hard to do but you just never know when it's going to die on you. Could happen at the worst possible time haha
@@CarsJubilee always does lol... reading the manual now for the ioniq 6,,,, 582 pages errr lol,, ,sat in one couple weeks ago,, really kool :))
@@CarsJubilee I think most people have (or should have) in the frunk a small battery booster by now. 😂 First purchase after getting the EVSE installed!
@@JohnRoss1 I never thought of a small battery boaster, thats a great tip, Thanks
Hyundai service for the ICCU recall is .. ready ?
see ya in December 2023 or January 2024... called 2 different service facilities
Excellent engineering from Hyundai, Tesla could learn a thing or two
Lithium batteries like to sit at 70%. It isn't good to let them sit below 30. Why are people parking in their garage or driveway at 17% and just walking away?
Sometimes you go to EA expecting to be able to charge but find a long line of Chevy bolts that are charging to 100% (that's close to a 2 hour wait).
Or sometimes every EA charger is broken but the app says they are all good.
Or maybe you were on the way back from a road trip and planned to charge at home but you needed a bathroom break.
I can see lots of reasons why someone might shutoff the car at low battery percentage. With the way the software is written plus the very bad 12v batteries in these cars, even a short stop could mean your car won't start.
I don’t think engineers are that dumb not to let the front motor regen when needed and then just not send power to the front wheels when in eco. that’s make no sense, it’s easy to manage. Maybe its just what you see on screen but not really what’s happening. Anyway that’s a strange little fail from hyundai if it really act this way
Well they essentially programmed ipedal to override eco drive mode which I think is perfectly fine because I do use ipedal to come to complete stops. And I would want that if I were using eco mode.
It's more so that many people don't realize that regen level can be just as important as drive mode when it comes to driving efficiently.
You can feel the difference between ipedal vs everything else while in eco. It clearly uses both motors to accelerate and regen just like the gauge displays.
Again I don't think it's a programming fail, more so the lack of realization by owners if you aren't actively watching the gauge displays to see what's really going on.