There is a few good benefits from it. By deleting the flap on the exhaust housing it allows for better air circulation so in return giving a bit more power. Deleting the oil piston in the pedestal gets rid of a common oil leak in 7.3 and also by deleting them both u never have to worry of being left stranded if the piston in the pedestal ever just decides to blow the seals dumping all your motor oil. I've seen it happen to a few people. Or the rod to the exhaust flap breaking and closing off your exhaust making u loose all the power. Seen that a couple times as well.
I've gotta tell you young man. I really loved and enjoyed your video. It was easy to understand, plus, even though you said it's a relatively easy project...I appreciated all your grunts and grones as you we're working on it. Being a old mechanic myself, I know about those grunts and grones. You made it real to me. Some people spin it as no big deal, and their hands aren't even dirty lol. I recently bought a 7.3, and am just starting on doing some of the mods, a little at a time. I will be doing this one too, and your video was the best I've seen. I'm going to subscribe to your channel, and follow along with your updates. Keep up the good work!
roger eastman I was thinking the same thing. I just bought my first diesel 7.3 2001 F350 a week ago and I’ve been looking at a lot of mods and learning about this engine as I only worked on my gas my entire life. I’m 58. And yes climbing over this beast makes some noise at my age lol. I’ve rebuilt a few V8 but This 7.3 has a lot of parts and not much room.
Awesome video and I like that you left your little struggles in the video, it's more real and it helps me know that I will probably have some of same issues and for that I'm subscribing; so thank you
I recently put this delete kit on my bosses truck along with a upgraded turbo from a 80mm to a 88mm..along with a performance tune,its throwing random codes now. Did you have any trouble with that your install?
Well it depends where the oil is coming from. If it's leaking from the turbo pedestal, this will fix it. But sometimes they leek at the fittings at the High pressure oil pump.
@@elmaschinon2699 I'm honestly ok with that. It's going in this week because of a transmission fluid leak. Just got a new tranny from them and u think the front seal gave up. I'll ask them to look at it
@@wheatsuperduty3773 It'd be hard to tell without actually looking at the truck. But I have had a few trans that have gotten hot and start leaking from the front seal.
prob easier to just replace the ebpv sensor and tube for about 65 bucks for both every 100k miles. No risk of codes or issues and owners will usually go from 15-16 mpg to 19-20 after clogged tube and sensor are replaced
how long did it take you to do project and get it back together? What are the name of the pieces? and cost? thanks....I have the same problem. Was going to take it to diesel shop Friday, I wonder what they will charge vs. me doing it?
Matthew D. It took me about 6 hrs because i messed with other stuff. Its called an exhaust back pressure valve delete kit. Not sure wut a shop would charge or if they would even do it.
Did you have to change any of the up pipes I have a ca emissions truck and wondering if I’ll need any other parts besides the Pedestal and turbine outlet
William New I don't remember the code # but it will be for the oil valve the actuates in the pedestal. All u need to do is get a .5 watt 470ohms resister and put it into the plug that's left. That'll make ur system think the valve is still plugged in.
If u take the small valve that goes on the pedestal off of the pedestal and plug it back in and just let it sit in the valley of the engine you wont get a code. Or you can get a 1 watt 470ohms resistor and put that in the plug it will get rid of the code.
@@elmaschinon2699 I bit the bullet on Friday and did my 1999 f350 dually..but it was an all day ordeal had to reuse the nut and inner plate and finagle it to accept the 0-ring and use permatex on the nut and outside after I used brake clean and acetone to completely clean sand and prep the pan for the permatex..then after I reinstalled it, let it cure for twenty four hours and then went over the whole thing with 3m 5200 sealant..and waited another 24 hours.. reinstalled the battery cables this morning and cranked it up.. PERFECT!! LoL But my neck was screwed..all night Friday and all day Saturday..bitch of a job when you cannot/do not want to remove the pan and you don't have a lift..just a couple of floor Jack's and blocks..lolby the way..I am not a small man..lmao
@@elmaschinon2699 no..not just the dipstick 0-ring..the stupid big 0-ring inside the wall of the oil pan as well.. What a freaking nightmare.. You need five hands but only have room for two fingers most of the time..
@@elmaschinon2699 ran it today..just to check for leaks and turn it around in the driveway.. tomorrow is the test day..fingers crossed.. no leaks today at all though which is a blessing.
As much as I can appreciate your time and effort to share your video. I would say the oil leak you spoke of came from the O-rings on the bottom of the turbo pedestal. I am not disagreeing with you. I merely would inform others with an oil leak like this one to focus on the two O-rings under the pedestal. Now Then: what did you do about deleting the EBP sensor sending false info to your PCM Powerstroke Control Module? Surely other parts of the EBP system has to be eliminated.
Well I'm 100% sure my truck was leaking from the piston in the pedestal. Also I said on the video to change out all four o-rings. The ones under the pedestal and the ones under the turbo. All you need to do to avoid the code is take out the sensor/valve from original pedestal and plug it back in and let it sit in the engine valley.
Thats a great video! would I type in "turbo pedestal"? on ebay? My truck is a 1994 f350 and it had a hard start issue so I changed the glow plugs and glow plug relay.Now the rpm is on zero when the truck is running and it cuts off.can you help a brother out?
Marty Taylor thanks man. yes just tipe that in and it should come up. as far as the truck cutting out it could be a few different things. is your truck a powerstroke or idi?
Marty Taylor do the idi's not have the same HPOP and IPR as the 99-03? as far as troubleshooting 99-03s I would say a good scan tool is a must so you can see what the HPOP IPR ICP are running at and perform injector buzz testing etc.
is there any performance gains from this mod? or any reliability issues from risk of blowing the turbo up? I thought the valve opened when pressure was too high via the wastegate?
Whiskey Tango yes the truck runs much better because less air flow restriction. also the bypass valve does not get deleted. no negative results from this mod. just more power.
I did notice some power gain. Turbo spools up faster now n more sound out the exhaust. Also u could use it as an engine brake but maybe take apart n rebuild it before hand.
Manny Soto not sure what you mean about the compressor housing. I pulled the whole turbo off. The compressor housing is on the intake side. The other side is the one you pull off. Just used a 5/16 12 point socket on a 1/4in impact.
Hey that new exhaust flange looked a little shorter than the stock one with the EBPV. Was it the same length? Did you have problems fitting the exhaust to it?
hey man .I have a problem with my excursion I put a new turbo on it but I broke the sensor on the pedestal I glued back with crazy glue but did not work now I got all this codes p0475,exhaust pressure control valve, p0237 turbo charger boost sensor a circuit low, p0472 exhaust pressure sensor a circuit low...what u think man ......a little advice, ,
well the p0475 is for that plug u broke. the only reason i can think for all the other codes is if u shorted something out. i would say make sure the plug u broke and fixed is gating good contact. then reset all ur codes. if it still acts u mite have to check ur pcm. thats wut controls all those things ur gating codes for.
I have early 99 7.3l fires up first turn of key idles ruff whole time no boost seams like no turbo shaft play just seams to be in limp mode any input would help greatly
Well there's a few things to check. First would be scan it if u have a SES light on. Checking ur fuel system for any leaks or ur fuel filter to make sure its clean. Also one common problem on this is the wire harness that goes into the valve cover. They sometimes come loose making the engine go into a sort of a limp mode because it's not running on all cylinders. Good luck man.
Well as far as i know. The cheap way u can just buy a 470ohm .5 watt resistor and put it in and that will get rid of the code. Or go on line and look up Dfuzers. I think they sell one already made.
the boost gauge has no real link to the ebpv. if ur boost gauge isn't working either u have a bad gauge or u have an air leak somewhere in the line to the gauge.
Nice truck but I have to tell you you're playing hell on your fuel system with that aftermarket fuel filter and cap. Just a little heads up injectors ain't cheap.
BTW anyone planning on doing this get an old couch/ chair cushion at your local jj giveaway to lay on over the hood latch easier on the gut. 😏
There is a few good benefits from it. By deleting the flap on the exhaust housing it allows for better air circulation so in return giving a bit more power. Deleting the oil piston in the pedestal gets rid of a common oil leak in 7.3 and also by deleting them both u never have to worry of being left stranded if the piston in the pedestal ever just decides to blow the seals dumping all your motor oil. I've seen it happen to a few people. Or the rod to the exhaust flap breaking and closing off your exhaust making u loose all the power. Seen that a couple times as well.
I've gotta tell you young man. I really loved and enjoyed your video. It was easy to understand, plus, even though you said it's a relatively easy project...I appreciated all your grunts and grones as you we're working on it. Being a old mechanic myself, I know about those grunts and grones. You made it real to me. Some people spin it as no big deal, and their hands aren't even dirty lol.
I recently bought a 7.3, and am just starting on doing some of the mods, a little at a time. I will be doing this one too, and your video was the best I've seen. I'm going to subscribe to your channel, and follow along with your updates. Keep up the good work!
Thank you sir. Glad to be able to help a bit.
roger eastman I was thinking the same thing. I just bought my first diesel 7.3 2001 F350 a week ago and I’ve been looking at a lot of mods and learning about this engine as I only worked on my gas my entire life. I’m 58. And yes climbing over this beast makes some noise at my age lol. I’ve rebuilt a few V8 but
This 7.3 has a lot of parts and not much room.
am I the only one who cringed every time he picked up and sat down a polished gasket/oring surface on the concrete block?
Whiskey Tango i made sure i didn't put any scratches on the surface but you're right. i should've used a cloth or something.
Just because you can't see the scratches doesn't mean there not there doesn't matter how careful you were
@@elmaschinon2699 these "men" need to go watch a video on how to properly use a tampon. Thanks for the video.
@@rodneyhoskins8187 I know hu. 3 years later and still no leaks. Must have done something right.
@@rodneyhoskins8187 hahaha
Awesome video and I like that you left your little struggles in the video, it's more real and it helps me know that I will probably have some of same issues and for that I'm subscribing; so thank you
Thank you
This video is great.
Hey man, great videos! You should do a video on the 05-07 front end conversion and the 4x4 conversion.
There's nothing to it, just buy the parts and bolt it on in the same exact holes.
I recently put this delete kit on my bosses truck along with a upgraded turbo from a 80mm to a 88mm..along with a performance tune,its throwing random codes now. Did you have any trouble with that your install?
The only code I got was from the oil valve in the pedestal. But u can just plug the censors back in and let it just sit in the valley.
I'm getting oil build up in my vally too. it leaks down by the starter and transmission. so dleteing this will fix the issue?
Well it depends where the oil is coming from. If it's leaking from the turbo pedestal, this will fix it. But sometimes they leek at the fittings at the High pressure oil pump.
@@elmaschinon2699 how much would it cost for a ford dealer to fix this
@@wheatsuperduty3773 Honestly I'm not sure. But I don't think they would do the delete. They would just fix it the oem way.
@@elmaschinon2699 I'm honestly ok with that. It's going in this week because of a transmission fluid leak. Just got a new tranny from them and u think the front seal gave up. I'll ask them to look at it
@@wheatsuperduty3773 It'd be hard to tell without actually looking at the truck. But I have had a few trans that have gotten hot and start leaking from the front seal.
Thanks Daniel Spencer. Yea i should have when i had it all apart.
prob easier to just replace the ebpv sensor and tube for about 65 bucks for both every 100k miles. No risk of codes or issues and owners will usually go from 15-16 mpg to 19-20 after clogged tube and sensor are replaced
where did you buy the kit and how much was it? Thanks for your time.
Patrick MaCord got it from ebay. about $250
how long did it take you to do project and get it back together? What are the name of the pieces? and cost? thanks....I have the same problem. Was going to take it to diesel shop Friday, I wonder what they will charge vs. me doing it?
Matthew D. It took me about 6 hrs because i messed with other stuff. Its called an exhaust back pressure valve delete kit. Not sure wut a shop would charge or if they would even do it.
you forget to mention there's a small metal clip in the bottom of the turbo that you pull of to remove the turbo
vr4 bastard damn right
I think he might’ve at about 3:45 ish
What’s the benefit of doing this delete??
Did you have to change any of the up pipes I have a ca emissions truck and wondering if I’ll need any other parts besides the Pedestal and turbine outlet
No not at all. When you're in there u can do the up pipe seals. But if they don't leak u don't even have to mess with them.
thanks man....i really appretiate it
What codes are going to pop up after this Delete?
William New I don't remember the code # but it will be for the oil valve the actuates in the pedestal. All u need to do is get a .5 watt 470ohms resister and put it into the plug that's left. That'll make ur system think the valve is still plugged in.
elmaschinon Riff Raff diesel sells a plug that's wired and ready to for $40
I have to tackle this one now..this week..
Oh..sooooooo. not looking forward to it..
It's not too bad of a job man. Just crack a beer and take ur time.
I'm going to intall it Saturday
well take ur time.
thanks again
Is a resistor necessary on the plug goung to the pedestal after the delete to get rid the soft code? Thanks
If u take the small valve that goes on the pedestal off of the pedestal and plug it back in and just let it sit in the valley of the engine you wont get a code. Or you can get a 1 watt 470ohms resistor and put that in the plug it will get rid of the code.
@@elmaschinon2699 Thanks bro. Eres bien Chingon!!
Good video subbed
You have the parts numbers so i can look them up. Thanks. Good video man.
Joel Arambula I don't have the part numbers but if you just search the web or ebay for 7.3 blank turbo pedestal it'll pop up.
Would it give more horse power?
Not a lot but it will. It helps the engine breath better wich in turn means more power. Also you will get more sound from the turbo.
Ok thank u. It will help a lot
man thanks so much for the info video man where did you get your delete kit
the growing channel thanks. i bought it off ebay.
Okay, so after all this time, do you still have your truck..and was it worth it?
Yes I do have my truck still. And I'm sure glad i did this when i did!
@@elmaschinon2699 I bit the bullet on Friday and did my 1999 f350 dually..but it was an all day ordeal had to reuse the nut and inner plate and finagle it to accept the 0-ring and use permatex on the nut and outside after I used brake clean and acetone to completely clean sand and prep the pan for the permatex..then after I reinstalled it, let it cure for twenty four hours and then went over the whole thing with 3m 5200 sealant..and waited another 24 hours.. reinstalled the battery cables this morning and cranked it up.. PERFECT!! LoL
But my neck was screwed..all night Friday and all day Saturday..bitch of a job when you cannot/do not want to remove the pan and you don't have a lift..just a couple of floor Jack's and blocks..lolby the way..I am not a small man..lmao
Yea doing the dipstick o ring its definitely a pain. Hope it sealed good.
@@elmaschinon2699 no..not just the dipstick 0-ring..the stupid big 0-ring inside the wall of the oil pan as well..
What a freaking nightmare..
You need five hands but only have room for two fingers most of the time..
@@elmaschinon2699 ran it today..just to check for leaks and turn it around in the driveway.. tomorrow is the test day..fingers crossed.. no leaks today at all though which is a blessing.
As much as I can appreciate your time and effort to share your video. I would say the oil leak you spoke of came from the O-rings on the bottom of the turbo pedestal. I am not disagreeing with you. I merely would inform others with an oil leak like this one to focus on the two O-rings under the pedestal. Now Then: what did you do about deleting the EBP sensor sending false info to your PCM Powerstroke Control Module? Surely other parts of the EBP system has to be eliminated.
Well I'm 100% sure my truck was leaking from the piston in the pedestal. Also I said on the video to change out all four o-rings. The ones under the pedestal and the ones under the turbo. All you need to do to avoid the code is take out the sensor/valve from original pedestal and plug it back in and let it sit in the engine valley.
It only sets off a soft code,being in California tho that was a problem for us they sell a piece that plugs into that harness to keep it in check
is there a gasket between the delete and turbo side?
no. according to ford its a machined finish so no need for gasket. i used some high heat sealer just to make sure i had no exhaust leaks.
Thats a great video! would I type in "turbo pedestal"? on ebay? My truck is a 1994 f350 and it had a hard start issue so I changed the glow plugs and glow plug relay.Now the rpm is on zero when the truck is running and it cuts off.can you help a brother out?
Marty Taylor thanks man. yes just tipe that in and it should come up. as far as the truck cutting out it could be a few different things. is your truck a powerstroke or idi?
its a idi
well being an idi the only reason it should cut out is if the fuel shut off is goin bad or the wire goin to it is loosing contact.
ok cool,I will check it out.thank you! I have been going CRAZY trying to find a IPR on this truck.
Marty Taylor do the idi's not have the same HPOP and IPR as the 99-03? as far as troubleshooting 99-03s I would say a good scan tool is a must so you can see what the HPOP IPR ICP are running at and perform injector buzz testing etc.
Hey man do you know what's the torque on those bolts for the exhaust outlet on the turbo 20 0r 30 pounds
i don't. i just got them nice n tight
Ok
+Ivan Angulo 100 ft. lbs torque
So did you update your turbo on an older engine
Same turbo on same engine. Just ebpv delete.
is there any performance gains from this mod? or any reliability issues from risk of blowing the turbo up? I thought the valve opened when pressure was too high via the wastegate?
Whiskey Tango yes the truck runs much better because less air flow restriction. also the bypass valve does not get deleted. no negative results from this mod. just more power.
elmaschinon thanks! I appreciated the video!
So now there is no engine breaking when you down shift?
Frank Morreale that exhaust back pressure valve is not an engine brake but it can be wired up as one if u wanted it to be.
elmaschinon thank you
where did you buy the kit
i got it from ebay.
Did you notice any power difference from doing that I was thinking about leaving mine in because I want to use it as a engine brake
I did notice some power gain. Turbo spools up faster now n more sound out the exhaust. Also u could use it as an engine brake but maybe take apart n rebuild it before hand.
Ok thanks for the input
I got the kit today
thats cool.
Haha 3:20 Them eyebrows!
Wuts that supposed to mean?
I was wondering the same thing? I have elbows also that look pretty damn similar! Lol...
Did you notice a difference in your egt’s?
Yes i did. Not dramatically but it did help.
How did you get the clip off?
At 3:45 on the cideo
Video
Manny Soto it just slides on the shaft. Just pull it back a little and then you should be able to pop the rod off
Thanks! Got it. Took me forever to get the turbo off today. What did you use to get the compressor housing off?
Manny Soto not sure what you mean about the compressor housing. I pulled the whole turbo off. The compressor housing is on the intake side. The other side is the one you pull off. Just used a 5/16 12 point socket on a 1/4in impact.
Subbed!!
What?
@@elmaschinon2699 he subscribed to your channel 🙂
Oh copy
Hey that new exhaust flange looked a little shorter than the stock one with the EBPV. Was it the same length? Did you have problems fitting the exhaust to it?
John Bias it was the exact same size. went back together good.
Davis Lisa Gonzalez Patricia Allen Daniel
hey man .I have a problem with my excursion I put a new turbo on it but I broke the sensor on the pedestal I glued back with crazy glue but did not work now I got all this codes p0475,exhaust pressure control valve, p0237 turbo charger boost sensor a circuit low, p0472 exhaust pressure sensor a circuit low...what u think man ......a little advice, ,
well the p0475 is for that plug u broke. the only reason i can think for all the other codes is if u shorted something out. i would say make sure the plug u broke and fixed is gating good contact. then reset all ur codes. if it still acts u mite have to check ur pcm. thats wut controls all those things ur gating codes for.
Thanks
I have early 99 7.3l fires up first turn of key idles ruff whole time no boost seams like no turbo shaft play just seams to be in limp mode any input would help greatly
Well there's a few things to check. First would be scan it if u have a SES light on. Checking ur fuel system for any leaks or ur fuel filter to make sure its clean. Also one common problem on this is the wire harness that goes into the valve cover. They sometimes come loose making the engine go into a sort of a limp mode because it's not running on all cylinders. Good luck man.
Wilson Cynthia Anderson James Lee Brian
what's the name or how to look for the plug eliminator??
Well as far as i know. The cheap way u can just buy a 470ohm .5 watt resistor and put it in and that will get rid of the code. Or go on line and look up Dfuzers. I think they sell one already made.
Thanks again
will this stop the boost guage from working.
the boost gauge has no real link to the ebpv. if ur boost gauge isn't working either u have a bad gauge or u have an air leak somewhere in the line to the gauge.
Ok thanks
Nice truck but I have to tell you you're playing hell on your fuel system with that aftermarket fuel filter and cap. Just a little heads up injectors ain't cheap.
Thanks for the tip. I just had it on there for a short period. It has the OEM one on there now.
+elmaschinon i bet yoyr knees were hurting like hell during this. Those trucks aint too comfortable to work on.
+coal rollin powerstroke hahaha oh yea. that's why I put down my jacket to lay on top of.
I use foam from an old sofa cushion lol
+Ben Denard lol hey wut ever works man.