Josh, how about a tuning video,starting with a paper tune and then provide the steps to move the arrow, so confused myself on what to move first, the rest, the cams, twist the strings.... forget that I'm a moron, but I still would like to have a step by step in how to properly approach the process. A michigan man here wishing you were my bow shop. thanks for all your vids watch them all.
These are the steps I do. 1) set nock height level and arrow 13/16” from shelf. 2) throw stabilizer or stabilizer’s roughly with the weight I’m going to use on the bow. 3) if string set is new shoot some arrows at close range to get the string set to settle some. Or throw it on the draw board at full draw and let it sit for 20-30 mins. This will get the cables to settle in.4) shoot through paper and study tear. High low tears check timing. If that’s perfect you may be getting contact on the rest or form may be off. I fix vertical rips first. Once that’s cleaned up work on the left and right tears. For paper I like to leave my rest at 13/16 and adjust with the shims or yokes. That way if your fixed blades are flying a little off you can make the necessary adjustments with micro tuning your rest. Usually just a couple clicks here and there if necessary.
@@mash4funBefore you adjust anything, make sure that your cams are in sync when they roll over and that one doesn’t stop before the other. If they aren’t in sync, you need to (un)twist the cables. Most bows have two little dashes on the cam for where the cable is designed to rest between. Always fix your vertical tears first.
Very cool and informative. I am a relatively new shooter and although very simple stuff for the experienced, very helpful to me. I travel for work and hope to be in Spokane in next few months, I'll be sure to visit your shop. Please keep up the 101 lessons, I'm sure there are plenty of folks like me who will benefit.
Yes please with more 101 videos. I’m interested in starting the hobby of building my own arrows, so I would love instructional videos on it. I saw your video on the fletch jig, so more content like that. What glues or cements you use, etc. Love the content, please keep it up! Thank you
super straight on the point video. honestly id TAKE ANY ADVICE you give on ANYTHING ARCHERY related! love the channel and podcast cant wait for the next one
I have learned a ton from you since finding the channel. Love the conversations with you and Tim. All the other archers are awesome as well. Podium Archer has supplied me with great gear and tools for my in house bow shop.
Thank you for the great information 👍 and perfect timing because I just ordered an arrow saw a bow vise and a bunch of other tuning tools so now im no longer reliant on my Loca shop for simple adjustments 👍
Thanks for all you do! I'd love to see a deeper dive into FOC considerations and specifics (like how much? how much is too much? etc.) as well as covering how inserts and tip weights work in conjunction with arrow length. What does right look like?
I was just reviewing my arrow length this morning. I had a few shafts cut at my local shop, but I forgot that the Quantum runs a half out insert effectively making the arrow longer. Thank you for the information, I always find it valuable.
Yes please. I’m trying to learn and this is what I need. Next please do arrow selection such as diameter with hardware for what application. Then how to use tools such as hamske levels and such to set up my bow.
Really great idea to do a 101 series. I am new into archery and amazed at all the singular aspects that can be be learned, but even more at how interconnected and related everything is. I have so many questions that need clarifying as I wade thru the youtube sea of archery minutia. This one on arrow length was perfect because I thought the arrow length had to be the same as draw length. My draw length is 29' and now I realize the arrow can be shorter than that. Thank you! Something that intrigues me now is finding the videos you and others did with Joel Turner where he talks about "muscle memory" and gives it the name it really should have which is "motor program"...thats beautiful man and so valuable. I am hooked but its so very expensive to have the best.
Great video and thanks for your recommendation. It convinced me to go with the shorter arrow setup for TAC. One idea for the future would be stock strings vs aftermarket and the differences in the brands.
Gonna love the 101 series. I've been shooting for a while, but sometimes it's good to re-learn some things (and learn new hints). Also, good for you for showcasing Bear archery more and more. I know a lot of folks give them a bad rap for being in "big box stores" but they are great shooting bows - especially some of their flagships in the last 2-3 years.
While this may not be a full Archery 101 video idea, I would like to see/hear your thoughts on the use of a a lens and clarifier in your bow setup. When it make sense and when it doesn't. Thank you for ding the video! I hope everyone appreciates the time you invest to film and produce them.
Thank you Josh! I’ve always wondered how short your could go! I know there was a shop around here that would only cut flush with the riser. It makes me feel good that I can cut them down in order to get me FOC up with a 29.5in draw without adding a ton of weight.🤘
MFJJ I love that you’re starting this series of videos! This series will springboard so many offshoot series of videos. One thing I can recomend is a video for the guy that got the hand me down bow from his uncle that was 6” shorter than he was lol This happened to me when I was first introduced to the sport way back when. Shot that bow at a 27” draw for years until I decided to upgrade and traded into a bow that was set at 28”. That 28” bow felt so much better and shot so good I thought 28” is my ideal draw. I was in my early 20s at the time of all of this. I’m now 36yrs old. I still have that old bear bow that was set at 28”. I love it to this day but it is now set to the max 30” draw length. My newest bow is a 2018 Bear Kuma 33. It’s set at 29.5. It was set at 30 until a few months ago. The reason is that I watched one of your bow reviews and you talked about the draw length being “adjusted” by the manufacturers to reach IBO. That bow is now at 29.5 and it fits me perfect. Love that bow. If you ever do a pawn shop review I suggest you grab a 2018 33” bear Kuma. I bought the bow off of eBay and contacted Bear with some replacement parts issues I was having. They said what do you need and sent the parts no questions asked. I have an essential brand new bow for eBay prices because of how much Bear stands behind their product. Anyway, I love your videos. I’ve learned so much from you and I hope to see you continue to grow and thrive. If I wasn’t all the way over in East Tennessee I would stop by the shop and buy some arrows from you. Thanks for all you do.
Great video Josh !! I cut my arrows an inch shorter than my draw length. ie. my draw is 28” so I cut them at 27” That puts them right past the middle of the riser.
I've heard another train of thought, but it ends up close to this, if not a little longer. You can find out where the 'node' of your arrow is by holding it at the nock and tapping the shaft at something hard like a table. There is a spot, close behind the point/insert where there's no bounce. That's where the arrow will flex around, and the shaft might be best supported there since it doesn't move at launch.
So maybe you did read my email after all where I said, " I think you and Tim (or you and Dan) should do a video series called 'know your bow' where you break down each component of a bow (riser, limbs, cams, strings, cables, rests, grips, sights, stabilizers, dampeners, etc.), what that component does, how it works, how length, width, weight, angle, etc. affect it., what's the difference between a cheap bow and a high end one, things to consider based on your size, experience, use, etc. "
Hey Josh, would you be able to do a video with a list of tools that you would recommend? I’m working on getting my own DIY shop set up. I’m a 2+ hour drive from the closest pro shop. Your videos have been such a great resource and I’ve picked up a few tools here and there but a comprehensive list and maybe a quick explanation of how/why you use that tool would be super helpful so I have everything I need to build my bow start to finish. I have several buddies that I would love to help with their set ups as well. Thank you for all your information!
Josh, great series and I believe you asked for suggestions for topics. I have a few suggestions, take the good and ditch the bad. How does draw length, draw weight, arrow weight and arrow stiffness all play together. For a newbie, it’s somewhat daunting to pick the correct arrow. Another topic could be the whole sighting in process. For the newbie it’s awful difficult to shoot at 60 yards for your tape as I am so inconsistent. Is there a bow rest or bow holder that can fire arrows without the ill effects of the shooter??? My idea is similar to a gun rest and vice that removes all human error. Another lesson could be shooting at high and low angles and how to shoot when shooting on a slope, either uphill or down. Thanks again for you series and your interest in helping all archers shoot better, much appreciated. Doug in The Woodlands, TX
Really enjoy this type of quick to the point type video, but is there any way you can do a video about tuning your bow and arrow by cutting different lengths of shafts just can't wrap my head around it thanks!!!
I had to go find a video on how to install the lens. Well install the fiber into the lens on my UV3 scope. I had no clue whenever I opened up the box and it was a hollow scope but crispy had one out and I would just wondering what you would have to say on that or what you would cut your fibers too and all that that'd be a good video to make. Thanks!
Sorry for being long winded here. Just wanted to make a point. The "old School" way way started by shops as the industry changed from aluminum to carbon. That was ironically about the same time that fall away rests started showing up in the industry. Since there was a need to maintain some overall arrow weight (because the carbon arrows were so much lighter than the aluminum) and conventional limb bows were erratic when you shot too light of an arrow shops saw this as a win win. The main reason was the fall away rests. Most of them wouldn't lift up until the last 1-3 inches of the draw cycle which caused broadheads to catch on the front (shelf) of the bow during the lifting of the rest, shops added a safety net to eliminate this problem. If you still shoot a cable driven rest, it can still be an issue if you forget to cock the rest or have the timing that would cause the rest to start lifting late (especially on older conventional limbed bows) so be aware of that. Limb driven is not in play because it lifts immediately.
this is just awesome, just sent a question to you on this very thing. now I can get ahold of you guys to build my arrows with the right length... one more question for when you cut.. do I include my knock in the measurements or not.???
I wouldn't mind seeing the use of a bow square. Whether in tuning, bow setup, or any other uses. I've see you use it to find center on the bow string when mounted to the arrow rest but didn't notice how you set soft knots. I enjoy your content and channel. I've learned alot so thanks a bunch.
Josh do you have a guide for how short to cut an arrow if you are gonna use an insert outsert system? Like the new Easton one for a the 4mm shaft? Or the standard victory collar? Thanks.
I’d like to see how you use your bow square to determine where to tie your nocking points. What measurements do you use and do you tie the top or bottom nocking point tight to the arrow. Thanks
I shot an Overdraw back in the late 1980's. I shot terrible with the 24" arrows. My point is that shorter arrows are less forgiving. Its simple Trigonometry and physics. So it is something to consider when going shorter. There are lot of advantages as mentioned in the above video.
I went to a shop back in the winter to get a new lift had my old arrows with me which was cut like 1/2” in front of the rest. I thought I’d get a new dozen arrows while I was there and they refused to cut them that short. Short as they would do is in front of the riser. Needless to say I just got some new shafts from Lancaster.
My 2nd compound was a Martin Firecat with an overdraw rest back in the early 1990's. It was my least favorite bow because of the overdraw feature. Any riser twist in the hand was magnified greatly. The short, light aluminum arrows had terrible penetration. Someone shooting a broadhead like the NAP Exodus (blades sweep back over the shaft creating a broadhead that's about the same length as a field point) may want a little more length than someone shooting something like a Slick Trick Magnum. To simply say a 1/2" past the rest is a bit of an assumption in my opinion. If your bow doesn't have a super solid backwall, you may want your arrows a bit longer, too. I know individuals who have over drawn their bow when a big buck excites them, and their broadhead caught the rest pulling the arrow off the string or pulled the nock out of the arrow. Crazy things can happen when one is excited.
Its all in where you feel comfortable where your BHs are. Ive ran an overdraw before with 25in arrows with a 28.5dl. Only thing you really have to watch is where the collars on the arrows are, if you have them.
@lawrencefranck9417 they're a great tool to use. I believe Hamskea still offers there's. It's all about taking the time to understand it. Just like anything else. Actually nice seeing someone comments that remembers.
If I was going to request a video it would be about the progression of equipment someone could buy over time as they become a better archer and wants to work on their gear themselves. When should you invest in a fletching jig? Do d-loop pliers make that much a difference? How much should I spend on an arrow saw, and when does it make sense to have my own? What skills does a new bowhunter need to take into the field to fix a problem that might otherwise derail his plans for a hunt?
I remember arrows being cut 3.5-4.5 inches shorter than draw length when overdraws were popular. Broadhead was way behind the riser. On current bows I always ask if they will use mechanicals. Some of the blades come back further than a half inch. Or if they plan to used turkey broadheads that need sit out in front of the riser.
Man I would like to see a fletching video about the different devices, ease of use for repeatability. With consideration of the home archer who isn't gonna fletch hundreds or thousands of arrows a year. Or just the best gear for the home archer in general.
Hi Josh, it's super useful. Question, how you will measure the arrow if you have an arrow rest? Just the same in full draw with the arrow rest at 90 degrees? Cheers
What FOC % do you recommend for hunting arrows? What FOC do you recommend for target arrows? How important is arrow shaft straightness (hunting vs target)?
I was always taught d/l + .5" carbon to carbon is a good place to start. Now i have landed with a carbon to carbon at my draw length and with components comes out to be just shy of an extra half in.
Josh, could you discuss what the best total arrow weight should be based on draw poundage? Mythbust this for me as I have heard some talk around a bows max efficiency is ~8gr per pound of draw, so we should try to make total arrow wt. as close to this number as possible. Is this accurate? Or what’s the best way to determine how heavy of an arrow to shoot? Thanks man! 👊
old school and all arrow manuafctors so far that i have dealt with are 1/1 to 1 inch in front of the riser which is safe and proven true as well that its best this way what your suggestion is to dangerous especially when using mechanical broadheads that can open on launch and it has been known to happen and there are also some really big broadheads that alot of hunters even younger guy use even today, keep you fingers where they should be and youll be fine either way anyhow thanks for the info but ill stick with tried and true of the top guys out there....
What size arrow to shot 3D and targer out side (OD of the arrow) and does the vain size on larger size help? Thank you My first bow came from yall hahaha the start of this rabbit hole and I love falling down it haha
i like it, thank you. a simple stabilizer video for real life situations would be appreciated. Some hunt from tree stands, some don't, some have open terrain.....etc.
Hey Brother. When I was first learning to shoot a bow, I was told, your arrows should be the same as your draw length. So about 29" for me. But now that I've watched a lot of content that you are in, across multiple channels, I believe I've heard you say multiple times that arrows should be cut as short as possible and still be safe. Somewhere in between the rest and the front edge of the shelf. But making sure the arrow is touching the rest and not the components. So, I took all the math work out of it and had my brother mark my arrow, while I was at full draw, about 3/8" in front of the rest on one bow, then double checked on my backup bow just to make sure they would work on both setups. The mark came in almost a 1/4" under 27". Which was over 2 inches shorter than what I had been shooting. So I cut my arrows down to 27" carbon to carbon. Gives me plenty of room to change nocks or inserts and still be past the rest. No need to have the arrow out there 1/2" past the shelf like I've heard some people say. It's no wonder why they have to shoot 250 spine arrows. When your arrow is 31" long and over 3 inches longer than needed.
The exception is if your broadhead, especially a fixed blade, needs that extra length to clear the shelf. Even Ramcat 100s will hit the shelf with a 28” arrow at 28.5” DL.
@jamessalerno4234 Obviously certain broadheads won't work on arrows cut close to the rest. Really, any 1 1/2" cutting diameter fixed blade, or smaller, will work just fine. And that's pretty much the majority of fixed blades.
Could you do a video on rest timing limb driven and cable driven. There is hardly no info on that at all. Longer contact or less rest contact. What’s better and how do you get it.
What are your thoughts on those v style biscuits? I switched to compound about a year ago and got one for my first compound. I ended up getting one to replace the stock one and brought it in for a tune. My locao shop said they cant tune it properly because they "have had problems tuning these rests previously". Wasnt too sure if thats common or if theres another tuning problem theyre not identifying
MFJJ, could you do something explaining proper nock position/ d loop placement with new Mathews bows. Everyone says level arrow through the middle of the berger hole. I have found that with that I’m always nock low. Cam timing and cam sync are perfect but a nock low tear every time on multiple newer Mathews bows. I seem to always have to move my nock sets up. That results in a perfect bullet hole but an unlevel arrow. Thanks for all the info you have shared with the average home bow techs. I appreciate it.
Tuning budget single cam bows like bear spices and adapt, pse stinger atk specifically addressing cam lean. Almost all the detailed tuning videos are tuning $1000+ bows with dual cams.
When switching arrow sizes, like 5mm to 4mm, do you have to change just the height of your rest or does that require a new knock point and moving the d loop as well?
Just an idea but could you do a video foccusing on bows and tips for archers with long draw length 32"+. Are there ways to use shorter draw bows without compromising form.. Us gorillas dont get a lot of mention and with bow companies moving to shorter draw bows (bowtech for example) options for flagships are drying up. Thanks
I cut my arrows at the beginning of the first riser bolt closest to the string at full draw, it works the best for me, best thing is to cut it until it groups the best.
This is probably something not too basic but would love to see a slow motion and explanation difference between cable vs limb driven rest in a director's cut style.
I asked in your other video this week. Please do a video on peep twist and how many times you might have to twist your string. And upper vs lower string twists.
Would like to see a basic paper tuning video. If the tear is a certain way, which way you should move the rest or cam. Every time I have to Google it because my memory sucks 😂
Thank you for a 101 series. I can't explain how grateful new viewers and archers will feel about this. Thank you.
Josh, how about a tuning video,starting with a paper tune and then provide the steps to move the arrow, so confused myself on what to move first, the rest, the cams, twist the strings.... forget that I'm a moron, but I still would like to have a step by step in how to properly approach the process. A michigan man here wishing you were my bow shop. thanks for all your vids watch them all.
Josh has videos of it already
@@michaelbushey2787 he asked and the videos I’ve seen are overviews not the detail that I was asking about.
These are the steps I do. 1) set nock height level and arrow 13/16” from shelf. 2) throw stabilizer or stabilizer’s roughly with the weight I’m going to use on the bow. 3) if string set is new shoot some arrows at close range to get the string set to settle some. Or throw it on the draw board at full draw and let it sit for 20-30 mins. This will get the cables to settle in.4) shoot through paper and study tear. High low tears check timing. If that’s perfect you may be getting contact on the rest or form may be off. I fix vertical rips first. Once that’s cleaned up work on the left and right tears. For paper I like to leave my rest at 13/16 and adjust with the shims or yokes. That way if your fixed blades are flying a little off you can make the necessary adjustments with micro tuning your rest. Usually just a couple clicks here and there if necessary.
@@mash4funBefore you adjust anything, make sure that your cams are in sync when they roll over and that one doesn’t stop before the other.
If they aren’t in sync, you need to (un)twist the cables. Most bows have two little dashes on the cam for where the cable is designed to rest between.
Always fix your vertical tears first.
I love the short simple lessons
101 about all 3 axis of adjustement when setting up a new sight and the local bow shop is... too old school! Thanks love the videos!
Very cool and informative. I am a relatively new shooter and although very simple stuff for the experienced, very helpful to me. I travel for work and hope to be in Spokane in next few months, I'll be sure to visit your shop. Please keep up the 101 lessons, I'm sure there are plenty of folks like me who will benefit.
Thank you for all of your knowledge MFJJ! Looking forward to learning from this series!
Yes please with more 101 videos. I’m interested in starting the hobby of building my own arrows, so I would love instructional videos on it. I saw your video on the fletch jig, so more content like that. What glues or cements you use, etc.
Love the content, please keep it up! Thank you
super straight on the point video. honestly id TAKE ANY ADVICE you give on ANYTHING ARCHERY related! love the channel and podcast cant wait for the next one
I have learned a ton from you since finding the channel. Love the conversations with you and Tim. All the other archers are awesome as well. Podium Archer has supplied me with great gear and tools for my in house bow shop.
Nice video! I still cut mine the old school way, but I already run a stiffer spine arrow, and they tune just fine, so it all works out in the end!
Thank you for the great information 👍 and perfect timing because I just ordered an arrow saw a bow vise and a bunch of other tuning tools so now im no longer reliant on my Loca shop for simple adjustments 👍
Thanks for all you do! I'd love to see a deeper dive into FOC considerations and specifics (like how much? how much is too much? etc.) as well as covering how inserts and tip weights work in conjunction with arrow length. What does right look like?
I was just reviewing my arrow length this morning. I had a few shafts cut at my local shop, but I forgot that the Quantum runs a half out insert effectively making the arrow longer. Thank you for the information, I always find it valuable.
Yes please. I’m trying to learn and this is what I need. Next please do arrow selection such as diameter with hardware for what application. Then how to use tools such as hamske levels and such to set up my bow.
Really great idea to do a 101 series. I am new into archery and amazed at all the singular aspects that can be be learned, but even more at how interconnected and related everything is. I have so many questions that need clarifying as I wade thru the youtube sea of archery minutia. This one on arrow length was perfect because I thought the arrow length had to be the same as draw length. My draw length is 29' and now I realize the arrow can be shorter than that. Thank you!
Something that intrigues me now is finding the videos you and others did with Joel Turner where he talks about "muscle memory" and gives it the name it really should have which is "motor program"...thats beautiful man and so valuable. I am hooked but its so very expensive to have the best.
Great video and thanks for your recommendation. It convinced me to go with the shorter arrow setup for TAC. One idea for the future would be stock strings vs aftermarket and the differences in the brands.
Gonna love the 101 series. I've been shooting for a while, but sometimes it's good to re-learn some things (and learn new hints). Also, good for you for showcasing Bear archery more and more. I know a lot of folks give them a bad rap for being in "big box stores" but they are great shooting bows - especially some of their flagships in the last 2-3 years.
Good info. Keep giving simple lessons. Thank you
While this may not be a full Archery 101 video idea, I would like to see/hear your thoughts on the use of a a lens and clarifier in your bow setup. When it make sense and when it doesn't.
Thank you for ding the video! I hope everyone appreciates the time you invest to film and produce them.
Great video. Your explanation was easy to follow and understand. Thank you.
You're doing a great job of educating.
Thank you Josh! I’ve always wondered how short your could go! I know there was a shop around here that would only cut flush with the riser. It makes me feel good that I can cut them down in order to get me FOC up with a 29.5in draw without adding a ton of weight.🤘
MFJJ thank you for being the “always available expert.”
Great video and straight to the point
MFJJ I love that you’re starting this series of videos! This series will springboard so many offshoot series of videos. One thing I can recomend is a video for the guy that got the hand me down bow from his uncle that was 6” shorter than he was lol This happened to me when I was first introduced to the sport way back when. Shot that bow at a 27” draw for years until I decided to upgrade and traded into a bow that was set at 28”. That 28” bow felt so much better and shot so good I thought 28” is my ideal draw. I was in my early 20s at the time of all of this. I’m now 36yrs old. I still have that old bear bow that was set at 28”. I love it to this day but it is now set to the max 30” draw length. My newest bow is a 2018 Bear Kuma 33. It’s set at 29.5. It was set at 30 until a few months ago. The reason is that I watched one of your bow reviews and you talked about the draw length being “adjusted” by the manufacturers to reach IBO. That bow is now at 29.5 and it fits me perfect. Love that bow. If you ever do a pawn shop review I suggest you grab a 2018 33” bear Kuma. I bought the bow off of eBay and contacted Bear with some replacement parts issues I was having. They said what do you need and sent the parts no questions asked. I have an essential brand new bow for eBay prices because of how much Bear stands behind their product. Anyway, I love your videos. I’ve learned so much from you and I hope to see you continue to grow and thrive. If I wasn’t all the way over in East Tennessee I would stop by the shop and buy some arrows from you. Thanks for all you do.
Great video Josh !!
I cut my arrows an inch shorter than my draw length. ie. my draw is 28” so I cut them at 27”
That puts them right past the middle of the riser.
Be grateful to see a video on tuning cams, yoke tuning
Fantastic. Love this channel!
Awesome, Josh. Thank you!
Thanks Josh👍 I learnt something today👍👍👍
Great explanation!! Thanks!
Thank you Josh
I've heard another train of thought, but it ends up close to this, if not a little longer. You can find out where the 'node' of your arrow is by holding it at the nock and tapping the shaft at something hard like a table. There is a spot, close behind the point/insert where there's no bounce. That's where the arrow will flex around, and the shaft might be best supported there since it doesn't move at launch.
Love the 101 idea! Other ideas: Where/how high should your peep sight be? What is the proper position for your string stop?
So maybe you did read my email after all where I said, " I think you and Tim (or you and Dan) should do a video series called 'know your bow' where you break down each component of a bow (riser, limbs, cams, strings, cables, rests, grips, sights, stabilizers, dampeners, etc.), what that component does, how it works, how length, width, weight, angle, etc. affect it., what's the difference between a cheap bow and a high end one, things to consider based on your size, experience, use, etc. "
Hey Josh, would you be able to do a video with a list of tools that you would recommend? I’m working on getting my own DIY shop set up. I’m a 2+ hour drive from the closest pro shop. Your videos have been such a great resource and I’ve picked up a few tools here and there but a comprehensive list and maybe a quick explanation of how/why you use that tool would be super helpful so I have everything I need to build my bow start to finish. I have several buddies that I would love to help with their set ups as well. Thank you for all your information!
Josh, great series and I believe you asked for suggestions for topics. I have a few suggestions, take the good and ditch the bad. How does draw length, draw weight, arrow weight and arrow stiffness all play together. For a newbie, it’s somewhat daunting to pick the correct arrow. Another topic could be the whole sighting in process. For the newbie it’s awful difficult to shoot at 60 yards for your tape as I am so inconsistent. Is there a bow rest or bow holder that can fire arrows without the ill effects of the shooter??? My idea is similar to a gun rest and vice that removes all human error. Another lesson could be shooting at high and low angles and how to shoot when shooting on a slope, either uphill or down. Thanks again for you series and your interest in helping all archers shoot better, much appreciated.
Doug in The Woodlands, TX
Really enjoy this type of quick to the point type video, but is there any way you can do a video about tuning your bow and arrow by cutting different lengths of shafts just can't wrap my head around it thanks!!!
Thanks for the info.
Thanks good info
I’d love to see a deep dive into Vane Choice
Pros and Cons of different shapes and lengths seeing as there are SO MANY options these days
I had to go find a video on how to install the lens. Well install the fiber into the lens on my UV3 scope. I had no clue whenever I opened up the box and it was a hollow scope but crispy had one out and I would just wondering what you would have to say on that or what you would cut your fibers too and all that that'd be a good video to make. Thanks!
Great video. Not sure if has been covered but maybe a video on string and cable selection and maintenance.
Sorry for being long winded here. Just wanted to make a point.
The "old School" way way started by shops as the industry changed from aluminum to carbon. That was ironically about the same time that fall away rests started showing up in the industry. Since there was a need to maintain some overall arrow weight (because the carbon arrows were so much lighter than the aluminum) and conventional limb bows were erratic when you shot too light of an arrow shops saw this as a win win. The main reason was the fall away rests. Most of them wouldn't lift up until the last 1-3 inches of the draw cycle which caused broadheads to catch on the front (shelf) of the bow during the lifting of the rest, shops added a safety net to eliminate this problem. If you still shoot a cable driven rest, it can still be an issue if you forget to cock the rest or have the timing that would cause the rest to start lifting late (especially on older conventional limbed bows) so be aware of that. Limb driven is not in play because it lifts immediately.
this is just awesome, just sent a question to you on this very thing. now I can get ahold of you guys to build my arrows with the right length... one more question for when you cut.. do I include my knock in the measurements or not.???
I wouldn't mind seeing the use of a bow square. Whether in tuning, bow setup, or any other uses. I've see you use it to find center on the bow string when mounted to the arrow rest but didn't notice how you set soft knots.
I enjoy your content and channel. I've learned alot so thanks a bunch.
One of your episodes for archery 101 should be how to adjust your second and third access on your bow sight
Great video!!!! Maybe you could do a video on types of fletching and different types of vanes. But thank you for all the info
Josh do you have a guide for how short to cut an arrow if you are gonna use an insert outsert system? Like the new Easton one for a the 4mm shaft? Or the standard victory collar? Thanks.
I’d like to see how you use your bow square to determine where to tie your nocking points.
What measurements do you use and do you tie the top or bottom nocking point tight to the arrow.
Thanks
I shot an Overdraw back in the late 1980's. I shot terrible with the 24" arrows. My point is that shorter arrows are less forgiving. Its simple Trigonometry and physics. So it is something to consider when going shorter. There are lot of advantages as mentioned in the above video.
I went to a shop back in the winter to get a new lift had my old arrows with me which was cut like 1/2” in front of the rest. I thought I’d get a new dozen arrows while I was there and they refused to cut them that short. Short as they would do is in front of the riser. Needless to say I just got some new shafts from Lancaster.
My 2nd compound was a Martin Firecat with an overdraw rest back in the early 1990's. It was my least favorite bow because of the overdraw feature. Any riser twist in the hand was magnified greatly. The short, light aluminum arrows had terrible penetration. Someone shooting a broadhead like the NAP Exodus (blades sweep back over the shaft creating a broadhead that's about the same length as a field point) may want a little more length than someone shooting something like a Slick Trick Magnum. To simply say a 1/2" past the rest is a bit of an assumption in my opinion.
If your bow doesn't have a super solid backwall, you may want your arrows a bit longer, too. I know individuals who have over drawn their bow when a big buck excites them, and their broadhead caught the rest pulling the arrow off the string or pulled the nock out of the arrow. Crazy things can happen when one is excited.
Its all in where you feel comfortable where your BHs are. Ive ran an overdraw before with 25in arrows with a 28.5dl. Only thing you really have to watch is where the collars on the arrows are, if you have them.
Bows once came with overdraws
@lawrencefranck9417 they're a great tool to use. I believe Hamskea still offers there's. It's all about taking the time to understand it. Just like anything else. Actually nice seeing someone comments that remembers.
might do one on grip "open vs relaxed vs tight
If I was going to request a video it would be about the progression of equipment someone could buy over time as they become a better archer and wants to work on their gear themselves. When should you invest in a fletching jig? Do d-loop pliers make that much a difference? How much should I spend on an arrow saw, and when does it make sense to have my own? What skills does a new bowhunter need to take into the field to fix a problem that might otherwise derail his plans for a hunt?
I remember arrows being cut 3.5-4.5 inches shorter than draw length when overdraws were popular. Broadhead was way behind the riser. On current bows I always ask if they will use mechanicals. Some of the blades come back further than a half inch. Or if they plan to used turkey broadheads that need sit out in front of the riser.
Man I would like to see a fletching video about the different devices, ease of use for repeatability. With consideration of the home archer who isn't gonna fletch hundreds or thousands of arrows a year. Or just the best gear for the home archer in general.
He has one already. Look in his past videos. I think it was titled which fletching jig is best.
Josh, what are your thoughts about the more 'extreme' process of finding the node of your arrow...as described by Ryals.
Good stuff
Hi Josh, it's super useful. Question, how you will measure the arrow if you have an arrow rest? Just the same in full draw with the arrow rest at 90 degrees? Cheers
What FOC % do you recommend for hunting arrows? What FOC do you recommend for target arrows? How important is arrow shaft straightness (hunting vs target)?
You rock man
I was always taught d/l + .5" carbon to carbon is a good place to start. Now i have landed with a carbon to carbon at my draw length and with components comes out to be just shy of an extra half in.
When using Exodus broadhead keep arrow a little longer do to blades sweeping behind the insert.
Josh, could you discuss what the best total arrow weight should be based on draw poundage? Mythbust this for me as I have heard some talk around a bows max efficiency is ~8gr per pound of draw, so we should try to make total arrow wt. as close to this number as possible. Is this accurate? Or what’s the best way to determine how heavy of an arrow to shoot? Thanks man! 👊
old school and all arrow manuafctors so far that i have dealt with are 1/1 to 1 inch in front of the riser which is safe and proven true as well that its best this way what your suggestion is to dangerous especially when using mechanical broadheads that can open on launch and it has been known to happen and there are also some really big broadheads that alot of hunters even younger guy use even today, keep you fingers where they should be and youll be fine either way anyhow thanks for the info but ill stick with tried and true of the top guys out there....
Josh what about a video on basics of peep size versus site distance and housing size?
Do you have a video on how to figure out your draw length and determine what a good draw strength is?
What size arrow to shot 3D and targer out side (OD of the arrow) and does the vain size on larger size help? Thank you
My first bow came from yall hahaha the start of this rabbit hole and I love falling down it haha
Wise words
i like it, thank you. a simple stabilizer video for real life situations would be appreciated. Some hunt from tree stands, some don't, some have open terrain.....etc.
Hey Josh great job on videos. Can you do more videos on target archery
A video about helicals and why you would choose one way or the other would be cool
Hey Brother. When I was first learning to shoot a bow, I was told, your arrows should be the same as your draw length. So about 29" for me. But now that I've watched a lot of content that you are in, across multiple channels, I believe I've heard you say multiple times that arrows should be cut as short as possible and still be safe. Somewhere in between the rest and the front edge of the shelf. But making sure the arrow is touching the rest and not the components. So, I took all the math work out of it and had my brother mark my arrow, while I was at full draw, about 3/8" in front of the rest on one bow, then double checked on my backup bow just to make sure they would work on both setups. The mark came in almost a 1/4" under 27". Which was over 2 inches shorter than what I had been shooting. So I cut my arrows down to 27" carbon to carbon. Gives me plenty of room to change nocks or inserts and still be past the rest. No need to have the arrow out there 1/2" past the shelf like I've heard some people say. It's no wonder why they have to shoot 250 spine arrows. When your arrow is 31" long and over 3 inches longer than needed.
The exception is if your broadhead, especially a fixed blade, needs that extra length to clear the shelf. Even Ramcat 100s will hit the shelf with a 28” arrow at 28.5” DL.
@jamessalerno4234 Obviously certain broadheads won't work on arrows cut close to the rest. Really, any 1 1/2" cutting diameter fixed blade, or smaller, will work just fine. And that's pretty much the majority of fixed blades.
Could you do a video on rest timing limb driven and cable driven. There is hardly no info on that at all. Longer contact or less rest contact. What’s better and how do you get it.
I would like to see how to properly fletch and set up arrows for longer ranges for TAC, and other stuff, to get peak performance at long ranges
What are your thoughts on those v style biscuits? I switched to compound about a year ago and got one for my first compound. I ended up getting one to replace the stock one and brought it in for a tune. My locao shop said they cant tune it properly because they "have had problems tuning these rests previously". Wasnt too sure if thats common or if theres another tuning problem theyre not identifying
MFJJ, could you do something explaining proper nock position/ d loop placement with new Mathews bows. Everyone says level arrow through the middle of the berger hole. I have found that with that I’m always nock low. Cam timing and cam sync are perfect but a nock low tear every time on multiple newer Mathews bows. I seem to always have to move my nock sets up. That results in a perfect bullet hole but an unlevel arrow. Thanks for all the info you have shared with the average home bow techs. I appreciate it.
He just made one of the new lift.
Tuning budget single cam bows like bear spices and adapt, pse stinger atk specifically addressing cam lean. Almost all the detailed tuning videos are tuning $1000+ bows with dual cams.
Thanks MFJJ
Can you review the Lrp arrows from Tac vanes
A video on inserts vs outserts. Pros and cons and how to install
One caution, make sure your fingers stay below the shelf. On questions: when cutting to length, both ends of just one end.
I’m almost all the way in on doing a lot myself, what’s a decent priced arrow saw ???
I’d love to see a video on how to fix peep twisting when pulling my bow back. Because that will makes me want to pull my hair out
What do you think about those annihilator's
When switching arrow sizes, like 5mm to 4mm, do you have to change just the height of your rest or does that require a new knock point and moving the d loop as well?
If you have collars should you count that distances and keep the rest on carbon or can it run up on the collar?
Just an idea but could you do a video foccusing on bows and tips for archers with long draw length 32"+. Are there ways to use shorter draw bows without compromising form.. Us gorillas dont get a lot of mention and with bow companies moving to shorter draw bows (bowtech for example) options for flagships are drying up. Thanks
Difference between hunting arrow and target arrow?(indoor vs.outdoor)
When tying a d loop does it matter witch side the knots. I know know they need to be on opposite sides.
I cut my arrows at the beginning of the first riser bolt closest to the string at full draw, it works the best for me, best thing is to cut it until it groups the best.
This is probably something not too basic but would love to see a slow motion and explanation difference between cable vs limb driven rest in a director's cut style.
That explains (some of) why you have the wingspan of an albatross but still have lighter arrows than me.
I asked in your other video this week. Please do a video on peep twist and how many times you might have to twist your string. And upper vs lower string twists.
Can you explain the benefits between 3 and 4 fletchings.
Is there a "correct" way to ballpark set your 3rd axis on a sight with a picatinny mounting system? Besides shoot it in and without a gen2 tool
Would like to see a basic paper tuning video. If the tear is a certain way, which way you should move the rest or cam. Every time I have to Google it because my memory sucks 😂
Will this make your arrows shot faster? Would you need to change site tape for example?