Canon T3i DSLR fixed and ENHANCED! Why Filter Mod for Astrophotography?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ส.ค. 2024
- Breathe new life into your old cameras with this trick! Got an old stock DSLR that you've upgraded from and don't know what to do with it? Here's some ideas:
Near-Infrared Photography
Ultraviolet photography
Astrophotography
Sprites, Elves, and other TLE's, transient luminous events.
Very low-light photography
Use various filters to achieve this:
Near-Infrared filter. Daytime 'Psychedelic' or 'Heavenly' scenes.
CLS-CCD (For light pollution and astronomy)
Ultraviolet filter
I broke my Canon T3i a few months ago. The screen went into the drink. The actual drink. Like a drinking glass. While kayak camping up in Canada.
I replace the screen for just $35. But i take it a step further and breathe new life into this old camera by enhancing it for Astrophotography and Near Infrared Photography.
Gary Honis' Astro-camera mod based on T4i (T3i is easier) • Canon T4i (650D) DSLR ...
T3i Broken screen replacement based on:
• How to Repair Your Bro... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![[ไฮไลต์] แบดมินตันหญิง ไท่ ซือ หยิง vs เมย์ รัชนก อินทนนท์ รอบแบ่งกลุ่ม | โอลิมปิก 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LUCG0H5qkpQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello,
I disassembled my CANON T3i machine, I removed the IR cut filter, but I did not install another filter instead. I forgot to mark the torx screws when removing the sensor, and I also did not measure the black pins next to the screws. My sensor calibration was wrong and my machine does not focus on infinity. How many millimeters were above the black pins from the base before you turned on the sensor. My problem will be solved if I find out. Thank you from now. i hope my english is not so good i hope i could convey my problem to you
Understood loud and clear! Even though I did measure and mark the screws before removing and put them back in the exact spot, I did a couple more test runs weeks after making this video and discovered that some of my lenses couldn't achieve focus properly. It might have just been an issue with the lens(es) but I went back in and started adjusting them all down a little further until it was right. Unfortunately that meant a lot of reassembly and disassembly, trial and error. It would be hard to tell you exactly what you might have to do. Adjust, test, take notes, adjust test, and repeat. Then call it done when you are happy with the results. Just take great care as the ribbon cables are very sensitive.
@@scienceoutthere
Is it easier to handle if I install a baader BCF filter instead of an IR cut filter? Because I don't want to disassemble and put it back on all the time. 3 times so far I have removed and put it back.
@@cnytgdk I don't know if you solved it eventually but without the filter there's a possibility that you cannot focus the visible and the ir light at the same time as they have different wave lengths thus, will land in different spots in the sensor.
You focus the visible light and the IR light is out of focus, probably creating a fuzzy image. Focus the IR light and the visible light will be out of focus.
Not sure if this is the issue but, food for thought.
Pedro Fonseca is this possible with the astronomik clear glass filter. I have the problem you discribe. My red channel is out of focus. I modified my 650d with an astonomik clear glass filter and took both of the other filters out. I am using a astronomik cls-ccd to shoot now. But like i said the red channel isn’t focussed.
Darkstar4891 JUST the red channel is out of focus?? That might just be the lens and some significant chromatic aberration. Do you have another lens you can try to confirm??
Those two are really cool upgrades. Great work. You seem to make it look simple.
Awesome video! 😁
good!! I modified a canon t2i last year and bricked it!!!! couple days i was able to pin piont the problem and finally have the amera runing. waiting for good weather now. :)
Would you be willing to brave these mods? Want to see some of the results from my modified T3i? Click here: th-cam.com/video/f2Lm_k0ZzmM/w-d-xo.html
NIce video :) For the sensor screws for retaining autofocus... lucky me I do prime focus astrophoto with my newtonian telescope so I don't need to worry about those ones :)
Loved the clipped in audio at 0:50.
Those are beautiful pictures. Great Commentary too.
Thanks! You have one hell of a setup! I used to have an observatory but recently moved and plan to just do portable stuff for a while. I'll need to catch up on some of your content.
@@scienceoutthere sure you are welcome to check it out. Please do let me know what you think
love the music at the end and would like to know where I can find it.
con una reflex astromodificada, osea sin filtros uv ir, al sacar una foto a las pleyades ,se podrea ver el celeste de las playedes?? o al estar astromodificada se veran de otro color?
suelo usar un filtro uhc para contaminacion luminica
At around 4:48 I can't believe you cut the LPF2 filter out while still mounted on the sensor.
Nice tutorial! And what's the result if I remove both filters, and not only the WB one? To do astrophotography we try to get more infrared information, so it wouldn't be a good idea removing the IR filter too?
Hi Warley. This is called a “full spectrum” mod and can be done for the best possible Near Infrared and Ultraviolet photography using filters. This filter is also the piezo-electric dust protector for the sensor, so manual cleaning will be required and the sensor is directly exposed to your environment.
@@scienceoutthere Understood. Thanks for the explanation!
Hi, I want to do this mod for my 600d, as well. If I remove the "blue" filter, is it necessary to use a clip filter for taking astro images? Or can i take pictures without any extra filter? And if so, do I have any advantages by doing this mod?
Yo I'm not sure if you figured this out by now, but just in case. Removing that filter will make those faint red nebula pop out significantly more in your astrophotos. If you want to get a hydrogen pass clip in filter, you'd have to take a set of frames separately before doing your regular RGB frames. This gives you a strictly RED shot that's usually used in post processing as a luminosity channel. That'll help those red colors pop out even more. It gets pretty in depth but there are tons of tutorials for Hydrogen alpha filters.
TLDR; This astro mod significantly improves RED signal by default. Adding an h-pass filter helps even more BUT makes you have to take separate set of exposures with and without the filter.
(Also seeing tons of people having issues with back focus after attempting this mod. Might be worth the $100 or so to let a professional do it.)
If anyone sees something wrong with this let me know!
Thanks for the video. I completed this mod on my t3i last night. I just realized that I didn't reattach the black fiber optic cable at the top on the right side. Any idea what this cable does?
Hmmm I don't recall off hand. It might just be a ground? Is the camera fully functional?
I got my older Canon 700D modified from a local camera repair shop for about $20 here in India.
Dude, I Am Form India. Can You Tell Me Where Did You Get It Modified From?
@@nikhilenairsame question here
@science out there , I am very confused, many people are suggesting BAADER BCF 1 filter. Is it is necessary?
The Baader BCF filter replaces the existing "blue" filter that I'm removing in this video (Stock LPF1, or UV/IR white balance filter). It allows your camera to operate in daylight mode very similar to normal operation, while being sensitive to Ha light. I'm achieving this with an external lens filter instead. You can go either way with this. Since I'm modifying an 'old' camera and have already replaced it with something better for normal photography, it's totally a fine option to just skip that step entirely. Hopefully that clears some things up!
@@scienceoutthere Thank you very much for clearing the confusion.
Sanjay S no trouble at all!
I removed both lpf-1 and 2 filters. Is this a problem and what does it mean for the camera?
That's a full filter mod and it's great if you want to REALLY capture near-infrared or UV light. It will still work fine for Astrophotography, however some lenses and telescopes don't handle UV/IR light very well and it can be difficult to get sharp stars. A UV/IR filter can help with that. Also, you'll lose the internal anti-dust features and will have to manually clean your sensor periodically if you notice dark motes showing up on images.
Would you need to put the light filters back if your only purpose is a telescope with filters fitted to a t ring adaptor and barlow lens.
John Nolan Nope! White balance filters would be for terrestrial photography only after that.
@@scienceoutthere thanks much
In LR or PS can i reduce those red and make correct color balance?
yes i think its done by aligning each channel on top of other Red Green Blue
some how I always thought you remove the IR filters.
You can if want! But it’s a “clear mod” and best for NIR and UV photography. The white balance filter is enough to get you good Ha response and you get to keep the dust removal function of that UVIR filter.
@@scienceoutthere IC. THanks !
Hello , I don't have to buy the clear glass filter mod ?
Victor Ricketson I don’t think the clear glass does anything to be honest. As long as it is assembled exactly how it was with the same sensor position as before it works perfectly.
excuse my ignorance, but I thought a astro modded camera had the 'ir' cut filter removed !, but you show it as stayed and remove white balance filter !
I can see where this is confusing! Canon calls them the LPF 1 (low pass filter which is clear, and only cuts IR and UV) and the "IR cut filter." I'm removing the blue colored IR cut filter but it is ALSO a white balance filter because it cuts deep into the red visible spectrum as well! Hence why it is blue colored and not clear. 650nm, The Ha emission line, is what we want and it is in the visible spectrum, not quite IR. I call it a white balance filter because you can literally buy that piece of glass and thread it to your lens, and now you don't need to manually white balance the camera. It has more impact on white balance than it does on Near infrared. So, we have a true UV/IR cut filter LPF1, AND then an IR/Visible red cut filter ("IR Cut Filter"). The latter of which is the one that is cutting out the 650nm light we want. Really by doing the mod this way, you get to keep the Piezoelectric dust cleaner (LPF1) and it keeps enough of the IR light out of a daytime image that you can just correct the white balance manually---most of the time, it's not perfect.
science out there thank you, I have a Canon 60D that I only use for Astro photography, I’m going to give it a go and remove the filter myself, think I can do it but if end up with a box of bits it’s not the end of the world as only paid £155 for it 😯 ha watch this space 🤞
@@greenmjg7 That's a very good price. All of those older canons are great opportunities to modify without spending thousands on dedicated CMOS astro cameras. You could wreck a lot of 60D's and still save some money!!
@@scienceoutthere Looking to do this mod myself as well and have a quick question about the LPF1 filter. Can that not be removed as well? What would be the difference in between removing the LPF1 and adding an external IR cut filter to a lens or telescope vs. just leaving the stock LPF1 in the camera. Essentially, are there pro's to one that out weighs the other or would they just be the exact same modification?
@@thomashunt6901 The LPF1 is also the piezo electric "dust shedder" You could in theory leave that off there and get even more NIR and UV. You might have to 'tune' the backfocus of the sensor a bit more than just removing the LPF2 alone.
do you need a soldering kit for the t3i?
Varun Vanga I did not at all for this project.
@@scienceoutthere Ok thank you, I had a 10d which did.
What filters did you replace the stock filters with?
In this case none at all at the sensor. there's nothing taking its place. This gives you the most possible options by using removable filters at the lens objective. I have a 77mm Near-Infrared pass filter for NIR photography. I also have some X-Nite CC1 filters (seen in this video) which restore stock white balance basically. And I have the Astronomik CLS-CCD EOS Clip in Filter (also seen in this video) which pass just the most important astronomy bands like Hydrogen Beta and Alpha, but block Infrared, ultraviolet and typical light pollution sources. That last one I highly recommend if you go the same route I did here!
@@scienceoutthere at 5:15 you show front filter stays does the auto clean sensor still work after that modd..
@@frankguyton9596 It sure does in this case! I can speak for the T1i, T2i and T3i in this regard at least. Other models might vary from this. Canon has tweaked the design in recent years and I'm not sure what the result might be on newer cameras. The piezoelectric vibrating system remains wired up and dust removal still works just fine. Just be real careful with it. Here's Gary's guide to it if some additional still images would be helpful: dslrmodifications.com/rebelmod450d4.html
@@scienceoutthere without the MC clear-glass or baader in place of the removed stock filter and 2. with the cls-ccd clip in filter can you achieve infinity focus with camera lenses? With telescopes the answer is yes, but with camera lenses can you?
Grozdan Grozev mine works just fine. However I might have had an issue with the sensor backspacing that I didn’t catch until a couple months later. It only affected one lens but my OCD led me to crack it back open and adjust. Then I found out the lens was bad anyway. There’s a couple of useful threads here about the subject. Backspacing MIGHT need to be adjusted for (some) lenses.
!!!
You forget to tell 2 big problems about the sensor modification, the focal plain maybe changes after the mod because the filters has been removed, its sometime 0.5mm. The second: the sensor is need an axis re calibration to get parallel again with the optical axis again!
Yep, There's discussion about this in several parts of the comment section. In truth, I didn't experience this problem until several months later when I got a new, fast lens and even then it was a bad copy anyway and I had to replace it. So I'm not even certain on that. So experience may vary. Was a very tedious process of taking the camera apart, adjusting, reassembly and try again. Not fun.
@@scienceoutthere Quick tip use a fix lens with AF to get good calibration again and print this
photographylife.com/how-to-quickly-test-your-dslr-for-autofocus-issues
con una reflex astromodificada, osea sin filtros uv ir, al sacar una foto a las pleyades ,se podrea ver el celeste de las playedes?? o al estar astromodificada se veran de otro color?
suelo usar un filtro uhc para contaminacion luminica