Great video. I just finished performing a full spectrum modification of my Canon T3 a few days ago. I had previously performed an Ha modification, but wasn't satisfied. I can't wait to test it, but the cloud monster just won't leave. I'm glad I found your channel. Please keep it up.👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Nikon d70 is probably the easiest camera to full spectrumize. I used standard microscope slide glass to replace the hot mirror and its worked beautifully
Just waiting my the T3i body I picked up to return from getting the astro mod done to it. I am using my day use EOS RP now, besides the 1.6 aps-c crop for zoom any real optical differences I should be aware of doing astro with a cropped sensor?
Quick question please. I have a full spectrum camera. I did some test shots . The shot looks grainy. I’m guessing I need to set my white balance. Is there a trick or short video you set the the white balance for the full mod camera. Keep it going.
Just posted a video on setting WB. Grain generally comes from ISO and underexposed can play a part. I would suggest joining our FB group Astro Venture DSLR and post up some samples with your exif data.
Some cameras after being Astro Modded contain an IR LED (infra-red) module which can leak IR light affecting long exposures. This is why I am holding off from getting my Z 6 Astro mod done can you explain?
If you tape down your lens after focusing, then you can eliminate that IR flare by unlocking your lens from the camera body and slowly turning the lens until the lens contacts are no longer connected with the body contacts. My camera is an old T3 that flips the mirror when that happens so I hear when the contacts are no longer connected. Don't go to far or you will get an error. This completely eliminates the flare, but also disables the aperature settings on the camera. You will see a F00 for your fStop, but that's a false reading. It will have an fStop of what ever it was before you broke the connection. Not an ideal solution , but if you're targeting only one section of the sky, then it's pretty much set it and forget.
Nice video! I use an ir-uv cut filter with my full spectrum camera for everyday use
Great video. I just finished performing a full spectrum modification of my Canon T3 a few days ago. I had previously performed an Ha modification, but wasn't satisfied. I can't wait to test it, but the cloud monster just won't leave.
I'm glad I found your channel. Please keep it up.👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Great explanation
Thank you.
Nikon d70 is probably the easiest camera to full spectrumize. I used standard microscope slide glass to replace the hot mirror and its worked beautifully
Nothing feels better than being able to do it yourself.
Just waiting my the T3i body I picked up to return from getting the astro mod done to it. I am using my day use EOS RP now, besides the 1.6 aps-c crop for zoom any real optical differences I should be aware of doing astro with a cropped sensor?
There is nothing to be aware of. It is a whole new learning curve editing, and the improved light sensitivity is nice.
Great explain
Thank you.
Quick question please. I have a full spectrum camera. I did some test shots . The shot looks grainy. I’m guessing I need to set my white balance. Is there a trick or short video you set the the white balance for the full mod camera. Keep it going.
Just posted a video on setting WB. Grain generally comes from ISO and underexposed can play a part. I would suggest joining our FB group Astro Venture DSLR and post up some samples with your exif data.
If I have an Astro modified camera and shooting night scape with the Milky Way, do I also set it to custom white balance?
Some cameras after being Astro Modded contain an IR LED (infra-red) module which can leak IR light affecting long exposures. This is why I am holding off from getting my Z 6 Astro mod done can you explain?
You are correct on the IR. I would contact Spencer's here in Utah and ask them about the feasibility of doing the Z6.
thanks@@astroventure2221
If you tape down your lens after focusing, then you can eliminate that IR flare by unlocking your lens from the camera body and slowly turning the lens until the lens contacts are no longer connected with the body contacts. My camera is an old T3 that flips the mirror when that happens so I hear when the contacts are no longer connected. Don't go to far or you will get an error. This completely eliminates the flare, but also disables the aperature settings on the camera. You will see a F00 for your fStop, but that's a false reading. It will have an fStop of what ever it was before you broke the connection. Not an ideal solution , but if you're targeting only one section of the sky, then it's pretty much set it and forget.