*Engine for sale, like new, only used twice, serious inquiries only!* I kid, I kid! As a serious tip though, be sure to occasionally check your oil level, older cars tend to burn more oil and it's a headache that can be easily avoided by checking your dipstick while your car fills up with gas. If you're into Instagram, consider following: instagram.com/engineeringexplained/. For product links, check the video description, like this $55K thermal camera haha - amzn.to/2mgV8XS. Shout out to FLIR for letting me borrow the camera!
Engineering Explained I can imagine the engine without oil is actually hotter but because the readings are coming from the surface of the engine, the lack of oil only allows convection rather than convection and conduction.
I think the engine is hotter with oil because the oil carries more heat and keeps everything stable. WIth no oil, you have just air and that cools faster than oil. Air just doesnt provide enough cooling or and barrier in tight tolerances
I have a guess why this may have turned out this way. The engine is new. A new engine is going to have perfectly smooth parts and will therefore have minimal friction. As wear would increase over time, so would the friction. Another thought I had is that one of the main duties of oil is to be the weak point, and therefore break down instead of the metal pieces. when you combine these thoughts together you realize how the oil really helps; the oil prevents wear by sacrificing itself. Adding this thinking to engineering principles, you realize surface temperature at equilibrium is about heat added to the system. The combustion adds much more heat than any friction, especially in this system, which brings me to the next point. You used an engine with no load being put on it whatsoever and no idle speed variation. Having some sort of drive train would increase the heat from friction and the heat from combustion, due to the added fuel consumption of overcoming the external forces. The added load would also increase wear which would increase frictional heat more as the surfaces wear even more. Overall, the biggest problem with the test was having a new engine with no load put on the engine. I good way to show this in another test would be to take a lawn mower, make sure it has oil, check the internals with a bore scope, mow a lawn, check again, remove the oil, mow a lawn for the same period of time, check again and compare. I say lawn mower because it is relatively cheap and it would do the job of adding resistance, especially if your grass is tall.
FishMan72727 Eh, the system equilibrium temperature is equally a function of heat loss and heat added. Idle speed was a big factor in this test but load would not have mattered versus just RPM.
I work at a Nissan dealer ship, this person had their car towed in, 2016 rogue 26k miles on it. Driving down the road, heard a loud banging sound, car cut off, wont restart, opened the hood there was oil every where, had it towed to us. When was your last oil change. Never had one done. At 26k miles, with out a single oil change, the crank bearing (the one a showed in this video) seized, with the engine at higher rpms at the time, two connecting rods (the rod that connects the piston to that bearing) snapped off, and blew through the side of the engine block, leaving big holes. Probably the funniest part was when we went to remove the foam insulator under the hood because it was covered in oil, a whole bunch of metal pieces fell out :). This was not covered under warranty, for parts and labor you were looking at about $18k (almost as much as the car was worth), the owner had the car was towed away (probably to junk yard, but I'm not sure on that), and is now probably making payments on a car that they no longer have. Moral of the story CHANGE YOUR F%$KING OIL PEOPLE.
+Big Hoss I use my car for short distance trips so i'll reach the distance reported on the service booklet in something like 10 years and that's when i'll change the oil.
Kevin Weil - One day I noticed my sister’s Celica GT on the side of the highway and I stopped to see what was wrong. The engine quit and was smoking a bit. Checked the oil to find the dipstick bone-dry. I asked her when she had the oil changed last and she couldn’t remember. Asked her when she last checked the oil. The answer was “The Oil light never came on”. Engine was ruined. A friends brother was a mechanic at a Toyota dealership. He somehow got it covered under warranty. Cost her a case of beer for him and the service manager. Two years later, the same freakin thing happened. I was so pissed at her.
Kevin Weil I also work at Nissan and we had a 17 Pathfinder come in with 24k miles for an oil change, pulled the plug off and nothing was coming out lol so we drop the pan and there was no oil only pure sludge so thick that the pickup tube left an indentation in the sludge. This one got lucky the motor didnt blow lol
Plus it’s not going to stay cold, it would obviously warm as it travels through the parts that need lubrication, that’s why the temp doesn’t look to be cooler.
yeah, that would definitely help! I pretty much blew up a rototiller engine like this! It worked fine for about the first 5 minutes then it slowed down and and I noticed smoke coming out of the exhaust... yep, big problem...
There would be a significant difference, especially on the cylinder bore. The oil would reduce the friction and increase the heat transfer to the cylinder bore. The crank would also get worn to all hell
One thing you forgot to take note off is even though you drained the oil from the engine to do your second test without oil, all the engine parts would theoretically all be lubricated. Try running a completely dry engine with no oil and I bet your results would be drastically different
The oil not only acts as a heat sink, as you mentioned, but also as an internal medium to not only cool hot surfaces, but to warm cold ones...a thermal balance goes a long ways towards preventing material stress and abrasion at sealing points (gaskets, valve seals, etc)...running with no oil, the hottest spots are probably going to be the piston's crown, the cylinder head's combustion chamber (to a lesser degree), and the exhaust valve stem/face. If oil is present, these parts will give up their excess heat and spread it to cool spots, like the finned cylinder block and intake side of the cylinder head, but without oil you are going to notice slightly cooler external temps as no heat is being transferred, but critical internal parts (particularly the piston) are building heat and have no way to transfer it away aside from direct skirt/ring contact with the cylinder wall. Eventually, the piston will fail from overheating, either by cracking or swelling enough to seize in bore, and the excess heat from combustion and friction trying to leave the only way it can, by direct contact of the rings and skirt to the cylinder wall, will lead to very rapid wear. Some of those small engines have a cast cylinder liner that isn't particularly tough, and the hardened rings will wear it away faster than the piston can seize in it. Then, with even less direct contact, the piston is going to have to melt down or crack. But the compression may get too low to keep running before that happens, all depends on the quality of the build. The bottom ends on these use ball bearings, which can roll along pretty happily with just an oil film for a long time. On a car engine, with hydrostatic bearings requiring oil pressure to keep metal off metal, no oil pressure is an almost instant disaster...but really not that big a deal for these little ones, at least in that respect.
Hi Engineering Explained. I have a 2015 Acura TLX V6. If you haven't already heard, this car comes equipped with a 9 speed ZF DCT that's been heavily criticized as being very jerky in shifting gears. Honda has been quick to swap out the 9 speed ZF DCTs for the 8 speed DCT. I've read some articles and forums stating the jerkiness has something to do with the "dog" clutch gears. I'm genuinely interested to know why these transmissions came out badly designed. Would you make a video explaining this? I hope my fellow youtubers like this comment to get his attention. Thank you all.
I heard that some tuning out a bandaid on that transmission.. they pretty much disabled 1st gear as the fix. I’d be upset . I do love the 10 speed in my F-150 though!
My mechanic forgot to change the oil in my car in the last service it had 2 years ago. The oil was already about 2 years old. So 4 years running on terrible oil that was less than 3 litres when 4 litres I'm supposed to have. The oil filter was already broken. I'm surprised my engine survived. As soon as my new mechanic drained the oil, cleaned the pan and new filter my car burst into a new life within an hour. It felt more powerful. So oil is really important guys. You might be thinking why so long after servicing. Well the car is a second car that's not used as often. So didn't feel the need to.
dosmastrify in my opinion, when the oul is very dirty and thik, the oil filter wont let it pass because it gets clogged overtime, then the pressure of the oil triyng to flow will eventually break the filtering material inside the oil filter. Maybe thats why he said it was broken.
theninja001 Lol, the car is rarely used, maybe it gets 1500miles a year on it.. so that's why I don't get it serviced every year so I do it every 2. I didn't know the oil wasn't changed until my new mechanic told me it most likely wasn't changed. It was also low on less than 3 litres of oil when it should be 4 litres that's probably down to leakages over the years. But I'm taking care of it more now, because I want the car to go on forever. And the reason I didn't change the oil myself is because I usually go the mechanic to get the whole lot done In 1 go, brakes, engine etc.
Well, you were measuring temperature on the engine casing. With oil temperature can be transfer from moving parts to engine casing. Without oil parts inside (like gears) are getting hot, but air around does not trasfer the heat to camera. So this is why engine without oil is colder (but it really isnt).
no...it has cooling fins to keep cool...its doesnt even have an oil cooler and even if it did thats not what an oil cooler is for...its to keep the engine oil at optimal temperature which is about 212 degrees F ... oil is for wear protection not engine cooling
phil tripe The one exception to your statement is an engine with oil squirters for the bottom of the pistons. Ferrari and Mahle are even using a 3D printed part on the underside of their pistons in F1 this year, to better control the piston temps.
Normally in engine with oil inside just one of the 3 rings is lubricated, others are not, and they purpose beside keeping pressure is to transfer heat to the fins. So your analogy is not exactly correct, because with or without oil they are working in the same condition. Another thing that occured to me is, you test engine with oil, drained it, and then run without oil. Well, oil is dense, and you cannot drain engine completly. Very thin layer of oil remain on the insides of the engine. For lubricated parts the thinner, the better. Layer thick on several atoms works the best, and you need more time than 15 minutes to wipe that layer. The test would be more reasonable if you cleaned remaining oil with special thinner. It would result in metal on metal action, and fast destruction of engine.
This engine has splash lubrication, the forces in the engine are relatively low and the bearings don't require pressure lubrication. In an engine with pressure lubrication running under load the engine would seize within seconds or minutes, once the oil pressure would drop the bearings would dry out and overheat quickly. It's an interesting video but can't really be compared it to a car engine. If you lost oil pressure while accelerating on the road you would probably end up stranded in a cloud of smoke and possibly with bits of engine rattling around the oil sump.
This actually happened to me. I was driving down the road when an oil cooler line gave out and blew it all over the road. I temporarily repaired the hose, threw a little oil in it, drove it up on a trailer, and took it home to fix the hose correctly. The vehicle still runs like it has all or most of its power and everything. It just clacks under load. I'm debating whether to put it back on the road until it truly dies but I'd have to replace some brake line first.
What is really interesting is at 4:21 you can see significant bluing on the crank on either side of where the connecting rod and bearing would sit. That would seem to indicate the temperatures were actually incredibly high from the bearing running dry. Neat to see how that wasn't reflected from the external view. As always, love the content, keep up the great work.
Jet Star One of car enthusiast channels in my country (Poland) did this using a 1.4 Opel Corsa, the guy was hitting redline frequently for a few hours straight and the engine worked as smooth as it was before. The conclusion was, this kind of oil will work, but it has way shorter lifespan than engine oil (it stops working as a lubricant much faster)
If you have to escape from the apocalypse and have no other alternative it might work. Just make sure you use cooking oil that can withstand high temperatures, so no olive oil =D
Interesting video, thanks for sharing. Three additional key points that you might want to make to your viewers are the fact that: 1) There was some initial lubrication in the engine that was drained and run with no oil and even that small amount of oil provides decent lubrication at low RPM's under no load. 2) The Second point is that this test was performed at low RPM, would be interesting to see it at half throttle for a few minutes 3) Lastly, it would be interesting to see the same test at half throttle under full load Thanks again for a well produced video.
"It goes against my intuition. But then again, if I knew what would happen from the start there'd be no point in doing this". Beautiful. This is precisely how humans went from banging rocks together to landing on the Moon and building supercomputers! Love it!
My 1996 Honda Civic Ex ran without oil for quite a while. The car felt sluggish and slow, but it kept going. One of the pistons had exploded and was making a terrible popcorn sound while idling. The engine blew and had to get a new one. But it did run for awhile without oil. To this day, I say Honda makes the best engines.
Or more to the point, it sounds like you kept driving the popcorn motor??? Not all noises are something you should worry about, especially at high mileage, but there are some sounds and actions a car makes that are universal for stop, CEL or not...
My mother got a Mitsubishi endeavor with 160k back in 2013 The car always made weird grinding noises but it was really speedy and never once even stalled or had an issue I never remember her changing the oil but I never said anything This week she came to visit and I was using the car with now over 200k she still never changed one thing on the car besides the battery and I decided to check the oil just out of curiosity and I was surprised to find the stick bone dry and the car wasn’t even knocking she said she never has time to check it and refuses to go to a mechanic because the car never had a problem I added some and the car already sounded so much quieter and felt new We still drive the car today and I plan to change the oil myself at some point She got a montero sport that she doesn’t treat much better but something about these motors just keeps them going All i can say is no other car brand has survived her long
A better comparison would be between an engine with oil and a separate engine without. It would be interesting to see how the wear patterns. I would have also left it running for hours, and tried to break them in per recommendations. Cool experiment!
To add, at 4:21 you notice a lot of "blueing" around the connecting rod journal. A sign of high heat. The oil not only lubricates but also transfers heat away from the engine parts. Interesting video. Thanks for sharing!
personally I can understand why it didn't act crazy after only a few minutes running without. for a small amount of time I'd wager the gearing and pistons would still be able to operate before they actually heat up and start grinding more. of course only for a very short period of time. I personally feel like if they both ran for say 6 hours straight, you'd see some extreme differences. then again I'm not an engineer and this is all conjecture feel free to correct me if I'm wrong
I'm sure I'm not the only one who will request you do this test again. Some people will say this test was poorly planned and they would be correct, to an extent. However, this test obviously surprised you... And you can't plan for the unknown. It is a learning experience... I'm sure if you give this another go it will result in a video that is far more engaging to an audience who may not naturally see it from an engineer's view.
Engineering Explained seems that maybe that small amount of oil still inside the crankcase had quite a bit of cohesion on the bearing surfaces, and decreased friction just enough for temperatures to stay reasonable. would not have guessed that
My guess it survived that long because there was no actual load on engine. I remember Fifth Gear drained car engine and drove around with no oil and if i remember correct it survived 8 minutes.
Could also be loose tolerances decreasing friction since it's a shitty motor. I have a retarded friend who drained his oil and started his truck and had the cam seize to a bearing in less than a minute, and he didn't even drive anywhere (apparently).
When I was 18, I took my Dad's Honda 350 twin MC for a short spin; real short, like a half mile. He had drained the oil, and took the key to get some new oil. With no sign of this in progress, I found the (spare) key (go figure) and took off. On his way back with the oil, he saw me pushing his bike back home. I was still unaware what had happened, though he was fully aware. He was very understanding and composed, as always,and we did get it running again...with oil this time.
quite honestly if its api certified its fine. probably grade one or two though, which means conventional with no additives(grade one) or with (grade two)
I think - and you point this out - the oil is acting as a heat conductor, which causes the crankcase and cylinder head to run hotter, but allows the internals run cooler. It'd be interesting to see the experiment repeated, with thermocouples embedded in various locations ... which would undoubtedly be hard to do.
I loaned a tiller to a friend that operated it for several hours and never checked the oil when refueling, needless to say, it locked up. The difference between that engine and yours was he was operating it under a load and i'm sure at higher speeds. Thanks for demonstrating what happens. It makes sense that the block of the engine with out oil was cooler because as you mentioned part of the oil's job is to take heat from the piston and crankshaft and move it to a location that can allow it to harmlessly dissipate. If you had never added oil to the drained engine it probably would have locked up as soon as the assembly lube dried up..
I believe that may be from the casting process, if you're referring to the coloring at 4:20. Not positive, as I didn't look inside initially, but I have a new crank as well and it too has the coloring.
It is markings of the heat treatment. After casting and rough machining, the bearing surfaces are heat treated for surface hardness and then ground to final dimensions.
you seem pretty smart but I was totally put off when you held the oil bottle the wrong way there's directions on it for you to pour it correctly so it doesn't gargle but nobody seems to read it it's right on the side of the bottle. actually I think it's a drawing I don't even think you have to know how to read just look at the drawing
The results are right! The oil makes the engine cooler INSIDE, exhaustingthe heat from it, and the thermal camera gets the temperature from the OUTSIDE, soh the engine with more exhaustingheat looks hotter.
Great video! Running an engine under no load will eventually lose itself, but it'll take time. What happens is like you show and explain, the engine starts wearing from bearing friction. You put this engine back together and keep oil in it, it'll still last a long time, just not as long as it would have, LOL! I should say, the engine will last longer than a new engine that isn't taken care of. Proper preventative maintenance is the life of an engine.
The variable that would apply in real world is engine load, as no engine ever just idles, they are meant to perform mechanical tasks. Try the same experiment with a load and watch the engine without oil blow up. Great video all the same.
Wasn't there a TV commercial for some oil company, years ago (probably in the late 70's-80's era) where they drained the oil and ran the car around the track to show the residual oil's lubrication ability? I don't remember how long they drove it like that, but at the end of the commercial, the car with no oil in it was still running well.
Man, I feel so sad... This is my favorite engine of all time... The 212 cc 6.5 HP Horizontal Harbor Freight Predator engine is so useful. It can be used for so many things! I have one installed in my "runabout" car. But, I guess it's a good thing to see what would happen if I did not check my oil...
the cylinder bore is supposed to look like that. the cross "grind" is there, so the oil doesn't flow down a straight line, but reaches all around the cylinder :) nice video and thanks for the test
+land otter1 your points B and C are the same thing. The higher Octane rating doesn't give the fuel more power it just increases its resistance to burning meaning the compression ratio can be higher and that is what gives more power. It also reduces the likelihood of predetonation for the same reason.
Too much oil can cause carbon buildup. I had a Solo 210 that got hard to start when the decompression port clogged. This put extra wear and tear on the pull starter and I wound up replacing some of that as a result. Cleaning the port involves removing the head and exhaust and then pushing a pipe cleaner through the port from each side. This is a periodic maintenance item on that engine but running say 25:1 instead of 50:1 would clog it up in only a few hours.
***** no it doesn't the lead was used so simply lube the fuel injectors. Seeing as all 2 strokes are carburated there is no 2 stroke engine in the world that would require lead in the gas. You can not have a fuel injected 2 stoke engine.
Castrol did those commercials a few years ago where they claimed an engine which had casttol oil drained from it lasted longer than any other brand. Have you done any similar testing and are their claims legit?
Interesting, never heard about that! It'd be interesting to see, but ultimately not that meaningful. If one works better when it isn't drained, that would be the one you'd want to buy, regardless of how great or poorly it acted once there was barely any left.
If the motor was under load it would have had some sort of failure quickly. Surprised to see how little damage there was though. The blueing on the crank shows there was some real heat in there though. Good vid!
Hey engineering explained dude those engines always have metal shavings in the oil on the first run. I recommend breaking it in per the instructions and then performing this test, as I have two of these, and they both had metal shavings in the oil on the first batch of oil
At VW shows in the 80's they used to drain the oil from a running bug engine bolted to a stand and wait for it to explode. As you found out it's surprisingly long and often just a loud clunk followed by the disappointing sighs of the expectant crowd.
p.s. To help with all metal-shavings that form and are thrust through the engine-oiling system,it's best to attach tiny magnets to the oil-drain-plug and somewhere on the oil-filter!!! You'd be amazed at just how much those tend to collect after awhile!!!
Oil in an engine is less for cooling purposes and more for lubrication. On car engines, a separate system handles cooling. On small engines, the cooling fins handles cooling. Oil is mainly to protect the moving parts from grinding each other into pulp during operation.
It still blows my mind that I can buy a brand new (semi decent) small engine for $90! Like the others are saying, having a load on the engine would dramatically change the results. I think powering a water pump or large fan would be a great way to apply load, using a rig you could easily fabricate and store at home. Either way, keep up the great work!
When I was a young man I drove a Ford Windsor V8 about 3-4 miles without oil pressure. It survived just fine, but I did think to keep it at almost an idle getting home. Rattled a lot. Put in a new oil pump and kept driving it.
yeah i mean the engine was only idling too which obviously itd be hard to give the same exact amount of throttle both times, but the engine had minimal stress on it. plus with the metal shavings in the oil and and all that stuff, you will always get some shavings in the oil especially after the firt run or break in period. still really cool experiment dude!
API certification is API certification. Either the oil meets the spec or it doesn't. if the bottle says "WPP" (Warren Performance Packaging) on the bottom, they are a major player in the private label oil market and they bottle major brands as well. The additive package might be an "off the shelf" additive package in a grocery store labeled oil, but you could bet you life on the certification part.
Sir can you make a video on what would happen if one of your injectors (cri diesel engine) fail (i.e. leaking, clogging, etc.,)... Your videos are really educational and entertaining at the same time.
I've topped up a 179 cc TVS motorcycle on Mustard oil and ran it for a couple of days because I was scared that I'll seize the engine because of too less oil. The bike ran absolutely normal with half a litre of cooking grade mustard oil and whatever engine oil was remaining in the engine from before. Ultimately, I did change the oil completely and filled regular 15W-40 oil.
Fact is, the no oil engine did have some oil in it. If it had been completely dry it wouldn't have lasted any time at all. Even the small amount left on bearing faces makes a huge difference.
This engine faired pretty damn well for running for a half hour without oil, even without a load on it. I just got done fully tearing apart a 318 V8 that had been ran to its death without oil, and every single connecting rod big end bearing was totally shot, as with the crankshaft. There was also a piston that had totally melted rings and the entire skirt busted off.
I enjoy watching your videos with the thermal camera, but it would be better if you could hold the min/max values of the temperature scales constant. I understand that the method you use shows the most variability throughout the video, but makes it hard to see changes over time or compare two side-by-side images.
Once I repaired a " brand new " gas generator who's owner forgot to read the litle card that said you put oil before start the engine. It ran untill the crank shaft gripped! The cilinder and the piston didn't have visible damege. Atfter the repair, it ran whithout problems for at least 2 years, untill he sold it. Then I lost track of it. This shows how tuff these little engines are!
We did something similar to this when I was at school. An old clunker was used, had all the oil drained, and then ran at full throttle! The point was to place bets on how long it would take for it to die. It took quite awhile for it to die (my memory tells me it was close to an hour and a half or so) and it wasn't anything spectacular, it just siezed up.
They said a bit of Solid Lubricant as MoS2 (eg: LiquiMoly; Molikote A), [in the 70s this was done by adding a small Molybdenum additive can to new oil every time oil was changed] can help in avoiding or delaying enough this catastrophic result...
I think you should have placed a minimal/nominal load on the engine. Some years ago there was a snake-oil product advertised and demonstrated much like this video. The product was put in crankcase of a small aircooled engine after which the oil plus product was drained and the engine re-started with no load. Unsurprisingly, it amazed the crowd.
Walter K Did it happen to be "Motor-Up"? I remember such commercials on TV in Finland where I live. For some reason, in the commercial they also removed a part of the bottom of the engine, and sprayed there water with hose while the engine was running. They reasoned the effect of the stuff by saying that it would form some kind of glazed layer that wouldn't require other lubricant inside the engine when the engine would be warmed up once after adding the stuff.
When I ran an engine with no oil, it was in a Honda Civic, and we jacked up the front wheels, and put it in 5th gear and redlined it. Well, it ran out of gas the first time we tried it, and we had to put more in it, and then run it for another 30 minutes at the red line before it finally slowed down and seized. The heat coming off the engine was phenomenal, and the smell was terrible. But eventually it did friction weld the pistons to the block.
My first car was a bit of project - a 92' Peugeot 405 2.0L petrol engine. The engine came in the trunk with a bent connecting rod and some other similar damage. How it happened? Very low oil and pushing the car hard on a motorway. Was expecting to see something similar in this video... then again, Mythbusters tried sabotaging an engine with all kinds of tortures, like a lot of sugar in the tank and coins in the cylinders, but it kept on running for much longer than anyone expected. Fun fact about the 92' peugeot - brought it to a dealership for some spare parts and mine didn't match any of the models they had in the catalogue. The dealership speculated as it's manufactured right at the end of the 88-92 range and start of the 92+ range, it ended up being a bit of a hybrid - some components coming from one range, others from the other. For example, it had 4 disc brakes, which apparently the 88-92 year range didn't have. Not sure how legit the dealer's claim was, possibly a previous owner salvaged a slightly newer model or something like that. Do such hybrids actually occasionally roll out from an assembly line?
*Engine for sale, like new, only used twice, serious inquiries only!*
I kid, I kid! As a serious tip though, be sure to occasionally check your oil level, older cars tend to burn more oil and it's a headache that can be easily avoided by checking your dipstick while your car fills up with gas. If you're into Instagram, consider following: instagram.com/engineeringexplained/. For product links, check the video description, like this $55K thermal camera haha - amzn.to/2mgV8XS. Shout out to FLIR for letting me borrow the camera!
Engineering Explained I can imagine the engine without oil is actually hotter but because the readings are coming from the surface of the engine, the lack of oil only allows convection rather than convection and conduction.
I think the engine is hotter with oil because the oil carries more heat and keeps everything stable. WIth no oil, you have just air and that cools faster than oil. Air just doesnt provide enough cooling or and barrier in tight tolerances
I have a guess why this may have turned out this way. The engine is new. A new engine is going to have perfectly smooth parts and will therefore have minimal friction. As wear would increase over time, so would the friction. Another thought I had is that one of the main duties of oil is to be the weak point, and therefore break down instead of the metal pieces. when you combine these thoughts together you realize how the oil really helps; the oil prevents wear by sacrificing itself.
Adding this thinking to engineering principles, you realize surface temperature at equilibrium is about heat added to the system. The combustion adds much more heat than any friction, especially in this system, which brings me to the next point. You used an engine with no load being put on it whatsoever and no idle speed variation. Having some sort of drive train would increase the heat from friction and the heat from combustion, due to the added fuel consumption of overcoming the external forces. The added load would also increase wear which would increase frictional heat more as the surfaces wear even more.
Overall, the biggest problem with the test was having a new engine with no load put on the engine. I good way to show this in another test would be to take a lawn mower, make sure it has oil, check the internals with a bore scope, mow a lawn, check again, remove the oil, mow a lawn for the same period of time, check again and compare. I say lawn mower because it is relatively cheap and it would do the job of adding resistance, especially if your grass is tall.
FishMan72727 Eh, the system equilibrium temperature is equally a function of heat loss and heat added. Idle speed was a big factor in this test but load would not have mattered versus just RPM.
Thank You.Great videos! Very cool...TY73s
What happens to oil without an engine?
It would stay in the bottle or would flow away if ye poured it out, i guess.
It would start a war..... And america always in it
It would turn back into dead dino bods
One and oily
it'll start being sentient by questioning the purpose of its existence
I work at a Nissan dealer ship, this person had their car towed in, 2016 rogue 26k miles on it. Driving down the road, heard a loud banging sound, car cut off, wont restart, opened the hood there was oil every where, had it towed to us. When was your last oil change. Never had one done. At 26k miles, with out a single oil change, the crank bearing (the one a showed in this video) seized, with the engine at higher rpms at the time, two connecting rods (the rod that connects the piston to that bearing) snapped off, and blew through the side of the engine block, leaving big holes. Probably the funniest part was when we went to remove the foam insulator under the hood because it was covered in oil, a whole bunch of metal pieces fell out :). This was not covered under warranty, for parts and labor you were looking at about $18k (almost as much as the car was worth), the owner had the car was towed away (probably to junk yard, but I'm not sure on that), and is now probably making payments on a car that they no longer have. Moral of the story CHANGE YOUR F%$KING OIL PEOPLE.
Kevin Weil i use synthetic so I don't have to change the oil for the life time of the vehicle
+Big Hoss I use my car for short distance trips so i'll reach the distance reported on the service booklet in something like 10 years and that's when i'll change the oil.
shadowninja81500 2 - 3 years then sell it, I don't drive more the 3000km a year and as far as I know oil doesn't go stale
Kevin Weil - One day I noticed my sister’s Celica GT on the side of the highway and I stopped to see what was wrong. The engine quit and was smoking a bit. Checked the oil to find the dipstick bone-dry. I asked her when she had the oil changed last and she couldn’t remember. Asked her when she last checked the oil. The answer was “The Oil light never came on”. Engine was ruined. A friends brother was a mechanic at a Toyota dealership. He somehow got it covered under warranty. Cost her a case of beer for him and the service manager. Two years later, the same freakin thing happened. I was so pissed at her.
Kevin Weil I also work at Nissan and we had a 17 Pathfinder come in with 24k miles for an oil change, pulled the plug off and nothing was coming out lol so we drop the pan and there was no oil only pure sludge so thick that the pickup tube left an indentation in the sludge. This one got lucky the motor didnt blow lol
Oil is for lubrication obviously more than it is for cooling.
Brian Harris cooling systems
Brian Harris that's what she said
Friction makes heat
Oil helps take away friction...
Plus it’s not going to stay cold, it would obviously warm as it travels through the parts that need lubrication, that’s why the temp doesn’t look to be cooler.
@@4774sammyg lol
You should repeat the test but with the engine under load. Intuition says there would be more carnage.
Good idea! A simple fluid resistance setup would be a good test, e.g. one on a bicycle trainer.
Bruce Harding It's still a good test
yeah, that would definitely help! I pretty much blew up a rototiller engine like this! It worked fine for about the first 5 minutes then it slowed down and and I noticed smoke coming out of the exhaust... yep, big problem...
That would help to destroy the engine faster but I doubt that the temperatures on the outside would be much higher.
There would be a significant difference, especially on the cylinder bore. The oil would reduce the friction and increase the heat transfer to the cylinder bore. The crank would also get worn to all hell
brb draining oil from my rides
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
same
Hey bruh your vids are truly awesome... the nissan build one tho
U back yet?
Did it run betterer
The residual oil on the contact surfaces held up really well and probably prevented much more serious wear and heat.
One thing you forgot to take note off is even though you drained the oil from the engine to do your second test without oil, all the engine parts would theoretically all be lubricated.
Try running a completely dry engine with no oil and I bet your results would be drastically different
The level of honesty in this video is through the roof, love it!
The oil not only acts as a heat sink, as you mentioned, but also as an internal medium to not only cool hot surfaces, but to warm cold ones...a thermal balance goes a long ways towards preventing material stress and abrasion at sealing points (gaskets, valve seals, etc)...running with no oil, the hottest spots are probably going to be the piston's crown, the cylinder head's combustion chamber (to a lesser degree), and the exhaust valve stem/face. If oil is present, these parts will give up their excess heat and spread it to cool spots, like the finned cylinder block and intake side of the cylinder head, but without oil you are going to notice slightly cooler external temps as no heat is being transferred, but critical internal parts (particularly the piston) are building heat and have no way to transfer it away aside from direct skirt/ring contact with the cylinder wall. Eventually, the piston will fail from overheating, either by cracking or swelling enough to seize in bore, and the excess heat from combustion and friction trying to leave the only way it can, by direct contact of the rings and skirt to the cylinder wall, will lead to very rapid wear. Some of those small engines have a cast cylinder liner that isn't particularly tough, and the hardened rings will wear it away faster than the piston can seize in it. Then, with even less direct contact, the piston is going to have to melt down or crack. But the compression may get too low to keep running before that happens, all depends on the quality of the build. The bottom ends on these use ball bearings, which can roll along pretty happily with just an oil film for a long time. On a car engine, with hydrostatic bearings requiring oil pressure to keep metal off metal, no oil pressure is an almost instant disaster...but really not that big a deal for these little ones, at least in that respect.
Bet he returned it
I'm not like that!
Engineering Explained make a go kart with it. lol.
All princess auto and hf stuff is returns....lol
the engine is fine...just broken in...if you put oil in it that motor will last a long time
I would lol
Hi Engineering Explained. I have a 2015 Acura TLX V6. If you haven't already heard, this car comes equipped with a 9 speed ZF DCT that's been heavily criticized as being very jerky in shifting gears. Honda has been quick to swap out the 9 speed ZF DCTs for the 8 speed DCT. I've read some articles and forums stating the jerkiness has something to do with the "dog" clutch gears. I'm genuinely interested to know why these transmissions came out badly designed. Would you make a video explaining this? I hope my fellow youtubers like this comment to get his attention. Thank you all.
Try having a 2013 Ford Focus SE, talk about bad transmission issues 😣
Modern car transmissions are very weak
Get a manual. Manual transmissions have been perfected compared to auto
I heard that some tuning out a bandaid on that transmission.. they pretty much disabled 1st gear as the fix. I’d be upset . I do love the 10 speed in my F-150 though!
I prefer canola oil in my engine its healthier
Extra Virgin Olive Oil is the way to go
I prefer grape seed oil or coconut oil.
healthy oil healthy car! 🤗
I thought we all did..
Sunflower oil is the way to go.
High performance premium oil from the grocery store...
My mechanic forgot to change the oil in my car in the last service it had 2 years ago. The oil was already about 2 years old. So 4 years running on terrible oil that was less than 3 litres when 4 litres I'm supposed to have. The oil filter was already broken. I'm surprised my engine survived. As soon as my new mechanic drained the oil, cleaned the pan and new filter my car burst into a new life within an hour. It felt more powerful. So oil is really important guys. You might be thinking why so long after servicing. Well the car is a second car that's not used as often. So didn't feel the need to.
You risk wrecking your engine running it low on oil.
Might as well put a few quarts in it rather than needing a $3000 engine overhaul.
You're inhuman to make such a loyal engine suffer like that, shame on you
dosmastrify in my opinion, when the oul is very dirty and thik, the oil filter wont let it pass because it gets clogged overtime, then the pressure of the oil triyng to flow will eventually break the filtering material inside the oil filter. Maybe thats why he said it was broken.
What do you mean, "my mechanic"? It doesn't take a mechanic to change oil, it's your fault, no one else's that you ran for 4 years on the same oil lol
theninja001 Lol, the car is rarely used, maybe it gets 1500miles a year on it.. so that's why I don't get it serviced every year so I do it every 2. I didn't know the oil wasn't changed until my new mechanic told me it most likely wasn't changed. It was also low on less than 3 litres of oil when it should be 4 litres that's probably down to leakages over the years. But I'm taking care of it more now, because I want the car to go on forever. And the reason I didn't change the oil myself is because I usually go the mechanic to get the whole lot done In 1 go, brakes, engine etc.
At 4:24 you can see the metal got very hot due to friction by the discoloration of the metal.
Nice, messing up the heat treatment.
Well, you were measuring temperature on the engine casing. With oil temperature can be transfer from moving parts to engine casing. Without oil parts inside (like gears) are getting hot, but air around does not trasfer the heat to camera. So this is why engine without oil is colder (but it really isnt).
M_Kil Exactly
Sure, but no (or minimal) lubrication between the piston/rings and the cylinder wall should result in more heat, which passes directly to the fins.
no...it has cooling fins to keep cool...its doesnt even have an oil cooler and even if it did thats not what an oil cooler is for...its to keep the engine oil at optimal temperature which is about 212 degrees F ... oil is for wear protection not engine cooling
phil tripe The one exception to your statement is an engine with oil squirters for the bottom of the pistons. Ferrari and Mahle are even using a 3D printed part on the underside of their pistons in F1 this year, to better control the piston temps.
Normally in engine with oil inside just one of the 3 rings is lubricated, others are not, and they purpose beside keeping pressure is to transfer heat to the fins. So your analogy is not exactly correct, because with or without oil they are working in the same condition.
Another thing that occured to me is, you test engine with oil, drained it, and then run without oil. Well, oil is dense, and you cannot drain engine completly. Very thin layer of oil remain on the insides of the engine. For lubricated parts the thinner, the better. Layer thick on several atoms works the best, and you need more time than 15 minutes to wipe that layer.
The test would be more reasonable if you cleaned remaining oil with special thinner. It would result in metal on metal action, and fast destruction of engine.
This engine has splash lubrication, the forces in the engine are relatively low and the bearings don't require pressure lubrication. In an engine with pressure lubrication running under load the engine would seize within seconds or minutes, once the oil pressure would drop the bearings would dry out and overheat quickly. It's an interesting video but can't really be compared it to a car engine. If you lost oil pressure while accelerating on the road you would probably end up stranded in a cloud of smoke and possibly with bits of engine rattling around the oil sump.
Aweigh@Sea splash lubrication, you mean wet sump ?
This actually happened to me. I was driving down the road when an oil cooler line gave out and blew it all over the road.
I temporarily repaired the hose, threw a little oil in it, drove it up on a trailer, and took it home to fix the hose correctly.
The vehicle still runs like it has all or most of its power and everything. It just clacks under load.
I'm debating whether to put it back on the road until it truly dies but I'd have to replace some brake line first.
@@dchawk81 did you ever put it back on the road?
@@EliFleming I ran it for like a month but then a brake line blew out. I had enough by then and scrapped it.
@@dchawk81 thanks for the update. Pretty much toasted mine limping home with a blown cam seal but I might see if it’s got any life left in it.
what happens if you don't change the oil at all? Not saying I don't change my oil.. but I'm curious
Im from Argentina, so my english isent so good.
If you do that, eventually the oil loses propertis, and dont lubricated so well
Jonny V in becomes chocolate
It gradually turns into thick sludge that doesn't flow at all. Eventually after enough miles it's like running without any oil and the engine dies.
Renzo Asdasd Your English is actually quite good.
iamezza other than it pretty much ruining the engine I didn't know it can kill it.. thank you
Im amazed to see the factory fresh cylinder cross hatching even after 15 minutes idling without oil
Oil performs under LOAD. You are not running your motors under load.
What is really interesting is at 4:21 you can see significant bluing on the crank on either side of where the connecting rod and bearing would sit. That would seem to indicate the temperatures were actually incredibly high from the bearing running dry. Neat to see how that wasn't reflected from the external view. As always, love the content, keep up the great work.
What happens if you use cooking oil to cool an engine? Would a sunflower seed oil engine work??
They work for a while however go bad pretty quickly.
Better than nothing if you lose all your oil on a camping trip and only have cooking oil.
Jet Star One of car enthusiast channels in my country (Poland) did this using a 1.4 Opel Corsa, the guy was hitting redline frequently for a few hours straight and the engine worked as smooth as it was before. The conclusion was, this kind of oil will work, but it has way shorter lifespan than engine oil (it stops working as a lubricant much faster)
If you have to escape from the apocalypse and have no other alternative it might work. Just make sure you use cooking oil that can withstand high temperatures, so no olive oil =D
It would work great in the fuel tank of an older diesel!
run engine for couple of hours and remove immediately and dip potato slice,,, "instant potato chips"😍😜
Interesting video, thanks for sharing.
Three additional key points that you might want to make to your viewers are the fact that:
1) There was some initial lubrication in the engine that was drained and run with no oil and even that small amount of oil provides decent lubrication at low RPM's under no load.
2) The Second point is that this test was performed at low RPM, would be interesting to see it at half throttle for a few minutes
3) Lastly, it would be interesting to see the same test at half throttle under full load
Thanks again for a well produced video.
You should do it again, but with the side of the crankcase off. We could see the temps of each components.
I like that idea!
I'm not sure I'd be comfortable near a running engine with an open crankcase...
Safety Squints and earpluggers mean you?
you couldn't cuz the camshaft will come out
lol Boat Channel don't you mean the crankshaft? But either way both of them would stay in place as they are bolted down by the cam and crank caps.
Time to change the *Engine Oil*
Lol
That "voids warranty" warning is pretty ironic here.
Craigslist ad: "Engine only used for 30 minutes, like new!"
Engineering Explained 😂😂😂
"It goes against my intuition. But then again, if I knew what would happen from the start there'd be no point in doing this". Beautiful. This is precisely how humans went from banging rocks together to landing on the Moon and building supercomputers! Love it!
My 1996 Honda Civic Ex ran without oil for quite a while. The car felt sluggish and slow, but it kept going. One of the pistons had exploded and was making a terrible popcorn sound while idling. The engine blew and had to get a new one.
But it did run for awhile without oil. To this day, I say Honda makes the best engines.
Jack Al You never checked your cars oil...?
Or more to the point, it sounds like you kept driving the popcorn motor??? Not all noises are something you should worry about, especially at high mileage, but there are some sounds and actions a car makes that are universal for stop, CEL or not...
Toyota makes equally good motors. 1980 Tacoma's still out there running like a champ
My mother got a Mitsubishi endeavor with 160k back in 2013
The car always made weird grinding noises but it was really speedy and never once even stalled or had an issue
I never remember her changing the oil but I never said anything
This week she came to visit and I was using the car with now over 200k she still never changed one thing on the car besides the battery and I decided to check the oil just out of curiosity and I was surprised to find the stick bone dry and the car wasn’t even knocking she said she never has time to check it and refuses to go to a mechanic because the car never had a problem
I added some and the car already sounded so much quieter and felt new
We still drive the car today and I plan to change the oil myself at some point
She got a montero sport that she doesn’t treat much better but something about these motors just keeps them going
All i can say is no other car brand has survived her long
Nice Vid, I always wondered what happened to engines without oil. It's amazing how long they can run without oil till bad things begin to happen.
Your first mistake was buying engine oil from a grocery store
walmart sells mobil 1 does that mean it sucks? lol
A better comparison would be between an engine with oil and a separate engine without. It would be interesting to see how the wear patterns. I would have also left it running for hours, and tried to break them in per recommendations. Cool experiment!
What happens if you put gearbox oil in an engine, because I did it once when I was a mechanic apprentice and no one noticed.
Валентин Valentin 😂
I'd imagine harsher engine wear, nothing anyone will notice till they drain the sump and get a good wiff😂
To add, at 4:21 you notice a lot of "blueing" around the connecting rod journal. A sign of high heat. The oil not only lubricates but also transfers heat away from the engine parts. Interesting video. Thanks for sharing!
personally I can understand why it didn't act crazy after only a few minutes running without. for a small amount of time I'd wager the gearing and pistons would still be able to operate before they actually heat up and start grinding more. of course only for a very short period of time. I personally feel like if they both ran for say 6 hours straight, you'd see some extreme differences. then again I'm not an engineer and this is all conjecture feel free to correct me if I'm wrong
I'm sure I'm not the only one who will request you do this test again. Some people will say this test was poorly planned and they would be correct, to an extent. However, this test obviously surprised you... And you can't plan for the unknown. It is a learning experience... I'm sure if you give this another go it will result in a video that is far more engaging to an audience who may not naturally see it from an engineer's view.
I drained the oil from my ex-wife's car and it is still running fine :(
Her new man got a oil change the next day
Look.... I am greatly impressed with your results. You are a mechanical magician!!!!
Very interesting, I would have guessed that the motor would have failed rather fast.
I thought the same!
it's probably the assembly lube, flush the crankcase with gasoline to remove the assembly lube
Engineering Explained seems that maybe that small amount of oil still inside the crankcase had quite a bit of cohesion on the bearing surfaces, and decreased friction just enough for temperatures to stay reasonable. would not have guessed that
My guess it survived that long because there was no actual load on engine. I remember Fifth Gear drained car engine and drove around with no oil and if i remember correct it survived 8 minutes.
Could also be loose tolerances decreasing friction since it's a shitty motor. I have a retarded friend who drained his oil and started his truck and had the cam seize to a bearing in less than a minute, and he didn't even drive anywhere (apparently).
When I was 18, I took my Dad's Honda 350 twin MC for a short spin; real short, like a half mile. He had drained the oil, and took the key to get some new oil. With no sign of this in progress, I found the (spare) key (go figure) and took off. On his way back with the oil, he saw me pushing his bike back home. I was still unaware what had happened, though he was fully aware. He was very understanding and composed, as always,and we did get it running again...with oil this time.
what if you use coke as oil ?
the hydraulic press channel guy did that
My guess the sugar causes excessive scarring to the moving parts.
Rick Sanchez i heard heroin works wonders
'Murica intensifies
You would need a pretty good source and it would cost a lot to fill an engine with that much cocaine
this guy is the best at the time to explain something who can dislike this?
Connect it to some load, then we will see the actual results.
Well happy you an Car Throttle are mates lol, two of my fave TH-camrs right there
Premium junk oil hehe
Detmer It's probably made by a brand name, just without all the additives. I'd use it in an emergency.
you could add additives yourself, like strawberry aroma, mustard or lube.
quite honestly if its api certified its fine. probably grade one or two though, which means conventional with no additives(grade one) or with (grade two)
Detmer banana lube?
I think - and you point this out - the oil is acting as a heat conductor, which causes the crankcase and cylinder head to run hotter, but allows the internals run cooler. It'd be interesting to see the experiment repeated, with thermocouples embedded in various locations ... which would undoubtedly be hard to do.
No external load on the engine. I bet it'd be just about destroyed with a full load (as in it can just hold peak torque rated RPM at WoT).
I loaned a tiller to a friend that operated it for several hours and never checked the oil when refueling, needless to say, it locked up. The difference between that engine and yours was he was operating it under a load and i'm sure at higher speeds. Thanks for demonstrating what happens. It makes sense that the block of the engine with out oil was cooler because as you mentioned part of the oil's job is to take heat from the piston and crankshaft and move it to a location that can allow it to harmlessly dissipate. If you had never added oil to the drained engine it probably would have locked up as soon as the assembly lube dried up..
WOW! the crankshaft must have gotten really hot, look at the tempering colors!
I believe that may be from the casting process, if you're referring to the coloring at 4:20. Not positive, as I didn't look inside initially, but I have a new crank as well and it too has the coloring.
It is markings of the heat treatment. After casting and rough machining, the bearing surfaces are heat treated for surface hardness and then ground to final dimensions.
What will happened if you use sunflower oil?)
nice experiment! it really had me scratching my head until you opened the crank case and saw the metal flakes.
you seem pretty smart but I was totally put off when you held the oil bottle the wrong way there's directions on it for you to pour it correctly so it doesn't gargle but nobody seems to read it it's right on the side of the bottle. actually I think it's a drawing I don't even think you have to know how to read just look at the drawing
Jesse LZ yeah why follow directions directions are for idiots right
The results are right! The oil makes the engine cooler INSIDE, exhaustingthe heat from it, and the thermal camera gets the temperature from the OUTSIDE, soh the engine with more exhaustingheat looks hotter.
Great video!
Running an engine under no load will eventually lose itself, but it'll take time.
What happens is like you show and explain, the engine starts wearing from bearing friction.
You put this engine back together and keep oil in it, it'll still last a long time, just not as long as it would have, LOL!
I should say, the engine will last longer than a new engine that isn't taken care of.
Proper preventative maintenance is the life of an engine.
5 after...FBI : OPEN THE DOOR!
The variable that would apply in real world is engine load, as no engine ever just idles, they are meant to perform mechanical tasks. Try the same experiment with a load and watch the engine without oil blow up. Great video all the same.
my motorcycle without oil for 1 years, for the result the engine sound is so noisy
Wasn't there a TV commercial for some oil company, years ago (probably in the late 70's-80's era) where they drained the oil and ran the car around the track to show the residual oil's lubrication ability? I don't remember how long they drove it like that, but at the end of the commercial, the car with no oil in it was still running well.
Why am I here? I've nothing to do with motor mechanics!
KNOCK KNOCK, who's there? Its me.. your engine...
Of all people to pour oil with the bottle the wrong way
i was also, appropriately, triggered by this.
Man, I feel so sad... This is my favorite engine of all time... The 212 cc 6.5 HP Horizontal Harbor Freight Predator engine is so useful. It can be used for so many things! I have one installed in my "runabout" car. But, I guess it's a good thing to see what would happen if I did not check my oil...
I was waiting for engine to blow up... never happen.. ☹️
the cylinder bore is supposed to look like that. the cross "grind" is there, so the oil doesn't flow down a straight line, but reaches all around the cylinder :) nice video and thanks for the test
This is a four stroke engine right? Could you do the same video with a two stroke engine please?
no modern day engine requires led in the gas. The led was used to lube the fuel injection system. Seeing as it was 2 stroke, it will not require led.
+land otter1 your points B and C are the same thing. The higher Octane rating doesn't give the fuel more power it just increases its resistance to burning meaning the compression ratio can be higher and that is what gives more power. It also reduces the likelihood of predetonation for the same reason.
Too much oil can cause carbon buildup. I had a Solo 210 that got hard to start when the decompression port clogged. This put extra wear and tear on the pull starter and I wound up replacing some of that as a result. Cleaning the port involves removing the head and exhaust and then pushing a pipe cleaner through the port from each side. This is a periodic maintenance item on that engine but running say 25:1 instead of 50:1 would clog it up in only a few hours.
Tjukken33 2stroke doesn't require leaded gas. It will run on unleaded just as good mixed with oil
***** no it doesn't the lead was used so simply lube the fuel injectors. Seeing as all 2 strokes are carburated there is no 2 stroke engine in the world that would require lead in the gas. You can not have a fuel injected 2 stoke engine.
I like how well made this video is
Castrol did those commercials a few years ago where they claimed an engine which had casttol oil drained from it lasted longer than any other brand. Have you done any similar testing and are their claims legit?
Interesting, never heard about that! It'd be interesting to see, but ultimately not that meaningful. If one works better when it isn't drained, that would be the one you'd want to buy, regardless of how great or poorly it acted once there was barely any left.
If the motor was under load it would have had some sort of failure quickly. Surprised to see how little damage there was though. The blueing on the crank shows there was some real heat in there though. Good vid!
You're an engineering channel but you poured the oil wrong, everyone does it! Flip the bottle over and you won't have air bubbles disrupting the flow!
WimsicleStranger wow so clever
WimsicleStranger look at your face! Look at your face!!
Great vid and congrats at being picked up by Road and Track.
One problem
I dont have a Car
you don't need a car, just an engine without oil
Sooooooo, you wrecked your engine for a TH-cam video? You got balls of steel mate!
Hey engineering explained dude those engines always have metal shavings in the oil on the first run. I recommend breaking it in per the instructions and then performing this test, as I have two of these, and they both had metal shavings in the oil on the first batch of oil
Yes good call, that comment is a very valid one. That's why they call it breaking in an engine.
It also depends on the Gas you're using. Some gas types come mixed with lubricating agents, which could keep the temps in check.
At VW shows in the 80's they used to drain the oil from a running bug engine bolted to a stand and wait for it to explode. As you found out it's surprisingly long and often just a loud clunk followed by the disappointing sighs of the expectant crowd.
p.s. To help with all metal-shavings that form and are thrust through the engine-oiling system,it's best to attach tiny magnets to the oil-drain-plug and somewhere on the oil-filter!!! You'd be amazed at just how much those tend to collect after awhile!!!
Oil in an engine is less for cooling purposes and more for lubrication. On car engines, a separate system handles cooling. On small engines, the cooling fins handles cooling. Oil is mainly to protect the moving parts from grinding each other into pulp during operation.
It still blows my mind that I can buy a brand new (semi decent) small engine for $90! Like the others are saying, having a load on the engine would dramatically change the results. I think powering a water pump or large fan would be a great way to apply load, using a rig you could easily fabricate and store at home. Either way, keep up the great work!
Yes , thank u. Something to show my sisters!
When I was a young man I drove a Ford Windsor V8 about 3-4 miles without oil pressure. It survived just fine, but I did think to keep it at almost an idle getting home. Rattled a lot. Put in a new oil pump and kept driving it.
yeah i mean the engine was only idling too which obviously itd be hard to give the same exact amount of throttle both times, but the engine had minimal stress on it. plus with the metal shavings in the oil and and all that stuff, you will always get some shavings in the oil especially after the firt run or break in period. still really cool experiment dude!
API certification is API certification. Either the oil meets the spec or it doesn't.
if the bottle says "WPP" (Warren Performance Packaging) on the bottom, they are a major player in the private label oil market and they bottle major brands as well. The additive package might be an "off the shelf" additive package in a grocery store labeled oil, but you could bet you life on the certification part.
This HAS to be 'Ders' from Workaholics trying to disguise his voice. We know it's you, man. No need to hide! Great video by the way EE!
Sir can you make a video on what would happen if one of your injectors (cri diesel engine) fail (i.e. leaking, clogging, etc.,)... Your videos are really educational and entertaining at the same time.
In Turkey you have to change engine oil and filters when it reach 10.000km ~15.000km or 1 year whichever occurs first for diesel engines
I've topped up a 179 cc TVS motorcycle on Mustard oil and ran it for a couple of days because I was scared that I'll seize the engine because of too less oil. The bike ran absolutely normal with half a litre of cooking grade mustard oil and whatever engine oil was remaining in the engine from before. Ultimately, I did change the oil completely and filled regular 15W-40 oil.
Fact is, the no oil engine did have some oil in it. If it had been completely dry it wouldn't have lasted any time at all. Even the small amount left on bearing faces makes a huge difference.
This engine faired pretty damn well for running for a half hour without oil, even without a load on it. I just got done fully tearing apart a 318 V8 that had been ran to its death without oil, and every single connecting rod big end bearing was totally shot, as with the crankshaft. There was also a piston that had totally melted rings and the entire skirt busted off.
Cool experiment. Although I think that remaining oil was still doing some % of his job. You should to clean it with degreaser in between runs.
I enjoy watching your videos with the thermal camera, but it would be better if you could hold the min/max values of the temperature scales constant. I understand that the method you use shows the most variability throughout the video, but makes it hard to see changes over time or compare two side-by-side images.
Always educational, always entertaining !
Thanks, Jason !
Nice job !!
Once I repaired a " brand new " gas generator who's owner forgot to read the litle card that said you put oil before start the engine. It ran untill the crank shaft gripped! The cilinder and the piston didn't have visible damege. Atfter the repair, it ran whithout problems for at least 2 years, untill he sold it. Then I lost track of it. This shows how tuff these little engines are!
We did something similar to this when I was at school. An old clunker was used, had all the oil drained, and then ran at full throttle! The point was to place bets on how long it would take for it to die. It took quite awhile for it to die (my memory tells me it was close to an hour and a half or so) and it wasn't anything spectacular, it just siezed up.
They said a bit of Solid Lubricant as MoS2 (eg: LiquiMoly; Molikote A), [in the 70s this was done by adding a small Molybdenum additive can to new oil every time oil was changed] can help in avoiding or delaying enough this catastrophic result...
I always learn a lot when I watch your videos. Thank you.
I think you should have placed a minimal/nominal load on the engine. Some years ago there was a snake-oil product advertised and demonstrated much like this video. The product was put in crankcase of a small aircooled engine after which the oil plus product was drained and the engine re-started with no load. Unsurprisingly, it amazed the crowd.
Walter K Did it happen to be "Motor-Up"? I remember such commercials on TV in Finland where I live. For some reason, in the commercial they also removed a part of the bottom of the engine, and sprayed there water with hose while the engine was running.
They reasoned the effect of the stuff by saying that it would form some kind of glazed layer that wouldn't require other lubricant inside the engine when the engine would be warmed up once after adding the stuff.
Pauli Vaara I apologize but I do not recall the product name. The advertising campaign to which I refer took place in the early 1990s though.
When I ran an engine with no oil, it was in a Honda Civic, and we jacked up the front wheels, and put it in 5th gear and redlined it. Well, it ran out of gas the first time we tried it, and we had to put more in it, and then run it for another 30 minutes at the red line before it finally slowed down and seized. The heat coming off the engine was phenomenal, and the smell was terrible. But eventually it did friction weld the pistons to the block.
My first car was a bit of project - a 92' Peugeot 405 2.0L petrol engine. The engine came in the trunk with a bent connecting rod and some other similar damage. How it happened? Very low oil and pushing the car hard on a motorway. Was expecting to see something similar in this video... then again, Mythbusters tried sabotaging an engine with all kinds of tortures, like a lot of sugar in the tank and coins in the cylinders, but it kept on running for much longer than anyone expected.
Fun fact about the 92' peugeot - brought it to a dealership for some spare parts and mine didn't match any of the models they had in the catalogue. The dealership speculated as it's manufactured right at the end of the 88-92 range and start of the 92+ range, it ended up being a bit of a hybrid - some components coming from one range, others from the other. For example, it had 4 disc brakes, which apparently the 88-92 year range didn't have. Not sure how legit the dealer's claim was, possibly a previous owner salvaged a slightly newer model or something like that. Do such hybrids actually occasionally roll out from an assembly line?
I have always been told “Oil is the lifeblood of a cars engine” I agree!
"Not just any oil, but high performance premium oil that i got from the grocery store" XD