Great info. Got a '99 GT that I want to do the swap on once the piggy bank is full (she's long in the tooth at almost 200k). I'm working on the rest of the car ( better brakes, suspension, cooling system, etc.) to handle the power. She's a daily driver so not going to get to crazy (can't afford to anyway). Your info, by the way, is spot on so pay attention, kids (I just turned 75 and I've been hot rodding cars and motorcycles my whole life and I've learned the hard way that doing your research/homework will save you alot of time, money, and headaches in the end. GOOD JOB! THANKS
Great list! One potential reason to consider a crank-a-palette... If anyone following this channel lives in California, the state's post-swap inspection process requires that everything emissisions & computer related be from the donor vehicle, so the crank-a-palette makes more sense if it has all of the computers, harnesses, modules and sensors and cats and EVAP system components. For Foxes, you won't have to run the gas tank (since they are OBD-1), but on 1996+ you'll need that tank (if I understand the rules correctly). In that sense, getting a complete drivetrain with a computer than you can VIN-verify, etc. is probably the way to go. In most places, however, 100% agree that the crank-a-palette is overkill. Thanks again for all the great info!
Great info Caleb! No matter what combos you run, don't forget, this is a 100% custom situation and there will ALWAYS be something that might need some trimming or massaging. I'm doing a gen 3/10r80 swap with UPR K and Ultimate headers. Everything bolted up fine, but when we put it in the car, we had to trim some material off the 10r80 case to get the stifflers cross member up high enough to set the mount. That may also very on what the application car is.
Buy once, cry once. Don’t skimp on breaks. Figure out a shifter and source the parts early. 4 cylinder auto shifter and a modified shifter rod work great on a 6r80. 10r is a different beast
Wow this is a great video. I just bought a v6 07 auto. My thought was goi g 1st gen truck motor, but was unsure about wiring being specific to auto and type of auto dictates my engine choices. I really appreciate this video as im getting back into hotrodding .
Caleb, just getting around to plan my coyote swap, reading and watching all the videos I can and wondering your opinion on a couple things. F150 motor vs Mustang. Keep in mind I’m not building a race car just want a fun stop light to stop light car. I see the F150 gen 2’s are cheapest in my area. Also, because you have done so many swaps what is your recommendation for Header, and crossmember with a manual transmission that will all work together without issue.
Love this video. Subbed. This is the first I’ve ever heard to “not drive it like a pushrod”. I’ve rewound that part of the video several times to try to understand what you mean. Yes, it likes to rev and build its power there so…. don’t bring the RPMs so low? I’m trying to do research now (glad I’m doing #5 correctly!!!😂😂) and I’ve learned a lot! Wanting to do a Coyote swap in my ‘59 Fairlane. It’s just a cruiser and I only want to do the swap for drivability, power, and economy. I was thinking that I needed a Gen III Coyote and I don’t. Gen I & II are sufficient in what I want. (Coincidentally the power I want is what the Coyote is capable of in stock form!) That being said, since the Fairlane is going to just be a spirited cruiser, can I run a 4r70w behind it? Or will the gearing lend itself to driving it like a pushrod? I wasn’t sure how well the Coyote and the 4r70w would communicate and work together. With less gears it would be easier to keep the RPMs up while accelerating but have almost the same OD gear ratio (4r70w is 0.67 and 6r80 is 0.63). Thoughts on this? Thank you so much for this video!! 🤙🏻
I have a 13' Boss 302 and a 19' GT350 and I'm sorry but my 93' blown 393w PUSHROD engine is still my absolute favorite. Hands down that down low torque is ridiculous and it pulls until I shift. I contemplated a coyote swap but for a street foxbody to me a coyote swap is not worth the money hp for hp. They just feel weak down low and can't compete with the engine sound of a properly cammed pushrod engine. Plus the sweet sweet sound of the Vortech whistle.
In my opinion and experience, the biggest mistake people make is buying a whole drivetrain from ebay. Or one of those motors/transmissions that come on a pallet. They look cool because they can fire up on the pallet, but in most swaps everything BUT the motor and accessories/engine harness is useless. (Unless going 6r80)
Say I have a pushrod 331 with a c4. I know I want to manual swap and eventually coyote swap it. Is there a trans I can throw in it now that would also work when I’m ready to swap a coyote in it? Knowing of course there might be a bell housing change that wouldn’t need to be “custom”
T56, TKX, TKO all are just a bellhousing swap but still may require a new driveshaft since the coyote may not sit I. The exact same position as your pushrod engine
Gen 1 lower built gen 2 heads upgraded fuel system wimpys super charger stand alone computer Holley makes a great one tko 600 if you’re running old body spend the money upgrade your suspension remember high rpms😊
I have a question been doing alot of study on the 10R80 & looking to see how reliable it is for a daily driver. But I've been hearing & see that they break down alot. It doesn't do any good if it's not reliable enough to make it a good investment
I’m going to ask a dumb novice question here. So a bolt on 4.6L 2V 2003 with PI setup. How fast can you spin those engines safely? I know they really only make their power above 3K. Will they handle 5,500rpm with a 3650 behind it?
A guy at work, someone traded in a 01 cobra, he said man this thing is a pig. I said dude, take it back out and Rev it! Don't be scared! He came back up to me and said it kinda scared him! Reve the ohc engines!
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Great info. Got a '99 GT that I want to do the swap on once the piggy bank is full (she's long in the tooth at almost 200k). I'm working on the rest of the car ( better brakes, suspension, cooling system, etc.) to handle the power. She's a daily driver so not going to get to crazy (can't afford to anyway). Your info, by the way, is spot on so pay attention, kids (I just turned 75 and I've been hot rodding cars and motorcycles my whole life and I've learned the hard way that doing your research/homework will save you alot of time, money, and headaches in the end.
GOOD JOB! THANKS
Great list!
One potential reason to consider a crank-a-palette... If anyone following this channel lives in California, the state's post-swap inspection process requires that everything emissisions & computer related be from the donor vehicle, so the crank-a-palette makes more sense if it has all of the computers, harnesses, modules and sensors and cats and EVAP system components. For Foxes, you won't have to run the gas tank (since they are OBD-1), but on 1996+ you'll need that tank (if I understand the rules correctly). In that sense, getting a complete drivetrain with a computer than you can VIN-verify, etc. is probably the way to go.
In most places, however, 100% agree that the crank-a-palette is overkill.
Thanks again for all the great info!
Rule: Don't listen to 95% of the fb group swap pros that Don't even own a car!😂
Facebook is the worst to get info
I love this. Would like to see top 5 must does when swapping
Great info Caleb! No matter what combos you run, don't forget, this is a 100% custom situation and there will ALWAYS be something that might need some trimming or massaging. I'm doing a gen 3/10r80 swap with UPR K and Ultimate headers. Everything bolted up fine, but when we put it in the car, we had to trim some material off the 10r80 case to get the stifflers cross member up high enough to set the mount. That may also very on what the application car is.
Buy once, cry once. Don’t skimp on breaks. Figure out a shifter and source the parts early. 4 cylinder auto shifter and a modified shifter rod work great on a 6r80. 10r is a different beast
Wow this is a great video.
I just bought a v6 07 auto. My thought was goi g 1st gen truck motor, but was unsure about wiring being specific to auto and type of auto dictates my engine choices. I really appreciate this video as im getting back into hotrodding .
Caleb, just getting around to plan my coyote swap, reading and watching all the videos I can and wondering your opinion on a couple things.
F150 motor vs Mustang. Keep in mind I’m not building a race car just want a fun stop light to stop light car. I see the F150 gen 2’s are cheapest in my area.
Also, because you have done so many swaps what is your recommendation for Header, and crossmember with a manual transmission that will all work together without issue.
Solid information as always
Love this video. Subbed. This is the first I’ve ever heard to “not drive it like a pushrod”. I’ve rewound that part of the video several times to try to understand what you mean. Yes, it likes to rev and build its power there so…. don’t bring the RPMs so low? I’m trying to do research now (glad I’m doing #5 correctly!!!😂😂) and I’ve learned a lot! Wanting to do a Coyote swap in my ‘59 Fairlane. It’s just a cruiser and I only want to do the swap for drivability, power, and economy. I was thinking that I needed a Gen III Coyote and I don’t. Gen I & II are sufficient in what I want. (Coincidentally the power I want is what the Coyote is capable of in stock form!) That being said, since the Fairlane is going to just be a spirited cruiser, can I run a 4r70w behind it? Or will the gearing lend itself to driving it like a pushrod? I wasn’t sure how well the Coyote and the 4r70w would communicate and work together. With less gears it would be easier to keep the RPMs up while accelerating but have almost the same OD gear ratio (4r70w is 0.67 and 6r80 is 0.63).
Thoughts on this? Thank you so much for this video!! 🤙🏻
I have a 13' Boss 302 and a 19' GT350 and I'm sorry but my 93' blown 393w PUSHROD engine is still my absolute favorite. Hands down that down low torque is ridiculous and it pulls until I shift. I contemplated a coyote swap but for a street foxbody to me a coyote swap is not worth the money hp for hp. They just feel weak down low and can't compete with the engine sound of a properly cammed pushrod engine. Plus the sweet sweet sound of the Vortech whistle.
How much did it cost ya to get the 393w built? Looking at a similar idea, maybe 363? Windsor will always sound better than a yote.
351w twin turbo build will do rounds against any coyote lol
383 turbo with built c4 - beast
427 stroke motor only - beast
Awesome vid with good tips. Appreciate it!
Awesome video. I didn't know the whole transmission thing
Excellent Video!
Great info 💯
Good info! Where is this shop
In my opinion and experience, the biggest mistake people make is buying a whole drivetrain from ebay. Or one of those motors/transmissions that come on a pallet. They look cool because they can fire up on the pallet, but in most swaps everything BUT the motor and accessories/engine harness is useless. (Unless going 6r80)
😂😂😂 I commented this before the video even started playing lol I didn’t realize it was your number4
oouf the 4 eye yoteees!
Does the ford control pack run the 6R80 trans ??
The thing I want to know is Gen 3 fuel systems so I can I install in my new edge I know it has 8 Injectors best kit for the swap
How easy would it be to coyote swap a SN95?
Say I have a pushrod 331 with a c4. I know I want to manual swap and eventually coyote swap it. Is there a trans I can throw in it now that would also work when I’m ready to swap a coyote in it? Knowing of course there might be a bell housing change that wouldn’t need to be “custom”
T56, TKX, TKO all are just a bellhousing swap but still may require a new driveshaft since the coyote may not sit I. The exact same position as your pushrod engine
What if a buy a wrecked 2017 mustang gt can I swap everything to my sn95
Ford take over 💪💪💪
Gen 1 lower built gen 2 heads upgraded fuel system wimpys super charger stand alone computer Holley makes a great one tko 600 if you’re running old body spend the money upgrade your suspension remember high rpms😊
How does wiring work with them?
What are your thoughts on the 4.6 32v aluminum motor? Is it a worthy swap?
Swapping to a coyote? I just keep the 4.6
I have a question been doing alot of study on the 10R80 & looking to see how reliable it is for a daily driver. But I've been hearing & see that they break down alot. It doesn't do any good if it's not reliable enough to make it a good investment
Can a t56 magnum bolt up to a Gen 3 ? And is it ideal for the high reving?
Yes
I would rather go with that 347 blueprint crate engine
I got my coyote swap back few months ago. Can’t drive around untuned.
I’m going to ask a dumb novice question here. So a bolt on 4.6L 2V 2003 with PI setup. How fast can you spin those engines safely? I know they really only make their power above 3K. Will they handle 5,500rpm with a 3650 behind it?
Not sure exactly but I know the issue is with the internals. The rods and pistons just aren't strong these years.
There is no mistake to be made when it comes to the 4 eyed🤟
"never seems to run out of power" especially when a 2022 predator blower on top
gen 2 ford control pack or holley?
Ford racing and a competent tuner is all you need. I like Lund personally.
Can I just bring you a roller?!!? Lol
Good thing I’m doing a 24v Cummins swap.
A guy at work, someone traded in a 01 cobra, he said man this thing is a pig. I said dude, take it back out and Rev it! Don't be scared! He came back up to me and said it kinda scared him! Reve the ohc engines!