Spray a small amount of water on header tubes, if one evaporates slower than the others there’s something wrong. Cheaper than a pyrometer too. Glad to see her running good!
While the plugs are out, I would do a compression check, and a leak down check. Lifter pre-load should be .020"-.060", with a 7/16"-20 threads per inch rocker stud would be around just under a half turn to just over a full turn. 3/8"-24 would be half turn to one and a quarter turn.
Great video. My grandpa taught me to check for fuel and spark first. If those things where good then start checking compression. Process of elimination. Lol 😆
I could definitely agree with the very first statement of this video. I had been messing with my car trying to get it running right for 3 years and I ended up going with a Holley terminator x and it solved my problems!! I believe I had a harness issue in the end. Glad to have my car going again but I know exactly what you mean with wanting to burn it to the ground!!!
Now that’s the way you diagnose a miss fire you gotta narrow it down to what cylinder it is then it comes down to fuel spark and compression stick to the basics! Good job brewl2👊
Nice video on troubleshooting! Just to confirm that it's not hurt, a compression check or leakdown test would be good. If a valve no longer fully seats due to minor damage, it would quickly create play in the valve guide or possibly crack it. A puff of smoke at startup would be a tell tale sign and possible valve train noise. If one cylinder has lower on compression on that bank do a wet compression check to see if the numbers go up. If it does, it's the ring, if not then a valve is not fully seating. Then take off the springs on the valves for that cylinder and check end play in the valve guide. That will rule out a bad valve guide and bent valve. If all else fails pull and inspect the head, and also check it for straitness. Should be under .002
I'm so jealous that you can pull your valve covers without pulling the upper intake. I love my Edelbrock but it's sure a pain in the @$$ to change gaskets/tweak rockers. Keep on making the goodness man!
In reference to #8 unplugging/broken clips, the Explorers,Crown Vics, etc with 19 pound injectors have squeeze the sides injector plugs. With a safety pin or other small stiff wire you can take the pins out of the plugs and they will not unplug. Plus, the newer injectors have 4 hole ends for better atomization of fuel.
Thanks for posting the step by step for guys who aren’t as inclined as others, like myself 😆! If I have one cylinder running hotter than the others, #1 in my case, what the hell is my problem. I swapped motors and this problem followed it. It’s. Chevy 6.0 ...
Sir. You and foxcast are the reason why I still have my fox. There have been so many time I have almost given up and almost sent my car to the junkyard. Thank you so much.
Dude, thanks for all the lil bits of informational videos you make. I have never Encountered this problem but it’s nice to see some one follow the steps of elimination to find the source of a issue instead of dart throwing.
My buddies uncle bought used truck. We was swapping the plugs for him. While he wasnt looking I dipped it in oil. He looked at that plug and goes WOAH. We couldn't keep a straight face.
Zinc, or trivalent plated plugs do not require anti-seize on the threads. Best way to tell; if your plugs threads are silver, or chrome in color, you dont need ant-seize. If the threads are black in color, put anti-seize on them.
I've also had a plug be bad right out of the box (brand-new) and I had an injector go bad on me after it had run for 10k miles. Those threw me for a loop trying to troubleshoot. Good video going through the process.
Hey fox fam!!! Just a reminder that the comercials pay for parts which brings more awesome content, thanks for the support. Don't 4get to hit that like button.
I'm enjoying the content. You explain the diagnostic procedures well and emphasize to think things through and not lose your cool. I run a 430" SBF with a 118mm, full out race car. We use the infra red gun to to check header tubes all the time. Keep up the good work.
Do a compression check and next time you have a head off and suspect a valve just turn the head so the suspect port is up and drop an ounce of mineral spirits down the port. If there's any leakage at the valve you'll see dripping or wetness around the valve in the combustion chamber. I've found weeping even with new heads that needed a little more lap work or cleaning debri like compound off the seat.
Watched this video yesterday and got back out to the grind on my 93 and I think I finally figured out my issue. (fuel injectors on #3 and #4 clogged) I slowed down and followed the basics like you said! Awesome video and thanks for the inspiration to keep getting out there and building my fox!
I remember the first time i put WAY too much anti seize on my plugs and it actually got on the tip and fouled them. I didn't know any the time that there was a such as "too much" lol.
Awesome video! Just a suggestion, when removing the coil wire try to remove the actual connector to the MSD coil (primary side) With that still plugged in the coil can create high voltage and that can travel anywhere nearby or to you!
Cool video bud with a lot of information. I had a issue with a 89 Fox I had A few years ago. It would run great but once it got hot it would start missing and then get to the point that it would die and not start. Narrowed it down to the TFI module which I replaced with one from O’Reillys and it ran great until it started doing it again. So this time I replaced it with a oem one and again it ran great for awhile and started doing it again. This was my daily driver I ended up trading it for a 95 bronco with a 351w 35s and a 6in lift. I later found out about the bad locations these and how they would get hot if you don’t use that gel stuff which I didn’t use. I had 16 of these cars and never had this issue except with this 89. I currently have a 89 and a 86 with TTops. I bought the TFI relocation which I install on all my Foxbodies. Never figured out why the 89 done this. It was cammed with a F cam, svo roller rockers, 5spd swap,4.10s,cai, Offroad H-pipe, flowmaster 10s. When I sold it I thought it was a electric issue or I’d never sold it. Really regret selling it.
Great video, I enjoy all your videos! I agree with everything you said only difference between us is I go for the easiest thing first! I start at the plug then the plug wire, then check compression while the plugs out and most of the time that will tell you if you have internal problems in the motor! I guess that’s just the difference in mechanics everyone has their own way of doing things!! Like I said man great videos!!!!!
Man I totally understand, I’ve got a 91 gt and it’s a labor of love!!!! I’ve got a 91 F-250 with the 5.0 in it and I’m chasing a demon in it, I believe it’s got a sensor bad, it want to flood all the time!! I’m about to lose what little hair I have left!!!!
@@traviswhite1461 have you changed out the ACT and ECT sensors? Might be worth looking into. Although I’m not very well versed in the f250 world it could be the same as the cars. It’s a know issue that causes flooding mainly when it’s cold.
Hey def feeling it, been chasing a thing on my fox also. I hope is a cheap fix or at least correct fix so I’m been taking my time eliminating different guesses (I’m thinking vacuum lines nowadays haha)
I've got to say...that very issue you had, I had on My N/A 94 GT, It was just that.....To much Anti-Seize on the Plug, less is more. I'm glad to know that I wasn't the only one XD
Start the car pull the plug wires with some welding gloves (so you don’t get shocked ) if it doesn’t run different when you pull one that will tell you where to look.
Great video!! I’m still tuning mine up that was sitting for years. Was running perfectly smooth and then ended up sounding like yours in this video. This gives me a great amount of help in troubleshooting!! Thank you. I do have black spark plugs. Do you have a way to reach you for additional help and guidance? Or no
The only part of my mustang I absolutely hate....is changing a spark plug...it just plain sux....drop the headers to change plugs...cause you dont just change 1...if you have to do all that work..change them all.
Correct me if I’m wrong but I believe NGK plugs have anti seize on the threads that’s why they are shiny? I run them in aluminum heads and never put anything on them.
@@BREW2LFOXBODY It’s not a typical anti seize I think it’s some sort of coating on the threads that prevents it from seizing in the head and damaging the threads. I’ll have to look around to be sure. Great video by the way
I have what sounds like a miss every once in a blue moon that I am trying to figure out now, I used the rubber on cap trick to see if any of the cylinders where dead yet everything is fine. I think I will look into timing next. Q: Giving I have the parts now would you, A. Time the car first B. Install the parts before timing "cap/rotor/plugs/wire" car is original 140k mile car.
You prolly know this but do a dry and a wet compression test. If the compression goes up with the wet test compared to the dry test then you have worn rings.
My 50 misses after rev into 5 6k driving or not. Installed New dizzy new coil new wires. Not replaced plugs yet. Drives smooth as daily. When in the mustard it starts to skip. Help?
2 things, where did you get the NGKs? china has been making fakes for years now that are crap. You need to get your plugs from reputable dealers. Google it to see the differences. And second, once a plug gets wet it can carbon track and the plug will short out under combustion pressure, and spark fine outside the cylinder.
I got a little miss and it’s at the thousand RPM Mark it’s starting to skip and miss and my engine starts to shake I can’t figure it out for the love of God
And hey...for help bc of that.. check your rotar button really good. Ever the tiniest pin hole thought the main copper tab can be the cause of that as well as a weak coil. Low rpm ok as well as high but more or less than that can also cause that.weak coils also come off as a poorly tuned carb or an out of tune efi system as if the fuel management system isn't working accordingly. May seem to run rich...but run so I assume it's too much fuel when in reality it's just not enough spark.any questions or help I would be open too.
@@BREW2LFOXBODY ty friend. You know honestly what your best quality that I have seen is you always leave your self open to suggestions and or better ways to handle,fix, or diagnose the solution. We can relate.
Me too. I love helping. Swear. I could do an engine swap for free just to have someone to talk to or swap stories with. Car stories and diagnosis and symptoms that you don't find in a step by step manual. You do good and I apologise I swear. I would like to think that your channel isn't kid based in a way or beginner based however that's wrong of me. Sorry break and william. U have a subscriber and fan. I just miss the content that best relates I guess. Pls ignore what I said.
@@BREW2LFOXBODY what probably happens was when the Anti-seize got hot they probably got onto the electrode of the spark plug creating a path of least resistance making a weak spark or smothering the tip of the electrode not allowing it to create a spark
@@BREW2LFOXBODY my engine builder also noted that anti-seize also changes the heat range of the plug. Just a dab of Copper anti-seize if you must. Love the channel!
I just did a oil pan gasket i have a wayyyyy easyer way to do it the gasket will easily stretch over the oil pan i used the felpro didnt have to lift motor or any thing didnt have to get past oil pump and pick up
Awesome tip, that's gold. I have heard of a similar way where a person tied some string on the corners and was able to fish it down and around the oil pump and crank but it took a certain degree of determination and nimble fingers. I also heard some mechanics will charge like they had to lift the engine but slice the gasket and slap it on with some extra rtv where they cut it. I don't recommend that technique but if a guy is in a pinch it will work.
I wish only wish I could install a knew coolant tube and intake manifold in my 1996. Gt 4.6l. V8idles great once in bit she will feel like she's rough never moves the rpms hold steady prity much. Only at start she seems to hang way up around 2thousand rpm goes down real slow wtf 😒
Hey man, I hope I can get some help here. I just finished installing my first turbo ever on my fox body. Can you explain how to run the vacuum line of the wastegate without boost controller ?
I’m pretty sure I just ran mine from the intake down to the lower fitting on the wastegate and left the top port open. But please verify for your setup with someone else just to make sure.
Terrific videos I just found your Chanel you have a new subscriber in SLC. I am new to the 302 but I just built one for my 96 F150. Check it out. I just got it all dialed in Wow I’m way happy with it. Anyway thanks man I just ran a timing light on it and used your sand paper trick!!!!!
Why not just start with a compression and a leak down test before all that? Be my first tests before touching anything personally. Thatll tell you a lot.
I never watched the full video and actually didn't get passed 30secbut this man is right... Minis the compression test.. compression tests are mobile mechanics tools. Leak down test tells you everything you need to now. How much cylinder pressure.. if it leaks down.. you can check the top of the cylinder mid and bottom for egg shape. Tells the story of valves intake and exhaust.if the guage reads great at the top or bottom valves are good... If you move the crank around and place the piston in a diff position and the pressure drops or drops the rises it's a worn cylinder or egg shaped. Yw ppl. Anyone that wants to send me $500 for diagnosis is more than marrier.lol
Ik I'm talking too much and y'all will probably never see me again comment... But to add to the leak down.. the crank will turn and allow the piston the hit the bottom of the stroke.. when determining eggshape I use a 1/2 drive wratchet approx 16-20 inches in length attach it to the crankshaft with the proper socketandblock it from spinning in a few stages. I check in 1/4s but most just check top bottom and mid. But I wanna know if it wore on the up or down stroke to cause the shape.. but hey.. I never went to school for anything 🤣🤣 so what do I know. Up stroke would cause larger bore at top and vice versa. Helps determine where the unbalance maybe.
Not on a completely stock car, other than the fact that it’s a new alternator and should last longer. But if you have a system or anything extra pulling power then yes absolutely
Buying a higher amperage alternator definitely has its benefits even if your engine in stock! Start your car turn on your headlights and your blower and check your voltage while idling, I am willing to bet your voltage is low! Everything on your car was designed to run at a certain voltage, With the age of these vehicles I guarantee your volts or not where they are supposed to be for everything to run properly! My father has a 92 LX Convertible with an AOD! I swapped every single bulb interior and exterior with LEDs and also installed a 130 amp alternator and replaced all the main power and ground wires! With his car idling in gear hi beams on, blower on high, A/C on which also turns both electric fans on high his voltage is sitting at about 12.5V! Before when you would come to an idle you would hear both fuel pumps slow down because of the voltage drop, Not anymore they are constantly screaming! I know there are plenty of people in the comment section who have no idea what they are talking about end it is hard to trust a stranger, So Google Muscle Mustangs and Fast Ford ( The Bold and the Beautiful)! It is a write up about a girl and her trio of mustangs, 2 Saleen’s and a 98 cobra! That is my work!
Hey please get back to me I've been having trouble with my fox 1990 I really need help and I can tell you what process I've done and what its doing long story short. Driver header getting red hot really bad idle timing is good brand new engine 331 stroker edlebrock performance rpm heads I checked compression its all good. Checked tps at key on engine off 5.044 v very odd checked voltage at with sensor off car at the white 10 pin connector tps still 5.04 v im thinking its the ecm. I've called lmr and bbk and a pro engine shop near me has them stumped.
My car hesitate around 4300 rpm for a second or 2 when I’m getting on it it’s a built 306 fuel injection car car idles good and ect I change coil an it still does it car is tuned as well and it actually lost lots of power no smoke or anything wat could it be it’s a 91 5.0
Could be that it just needs new plugs, a lot of the time the gap is too much on the plugs and at high rpm it will have a misfire. Also it could be the TFI module. But typically they will just go bad on you and the car won’t run. Also check car and rotor button for corrosion
@@BREW2LFOXBODY thanks bud I check plugs they seem to be good I put a cheap tfi module in her months ago but it seems to fire up fine thought about changing her to motorcraft .I’ll LOok at what you said I never changed distributor I used same one that was with my old build before I bore her .30 over it may even be the original one . Tfi went out months ago that’s why I changed it do you think the distributor is in its way out next ?
@@dkurcereacts there is a chance the distributor is going out but most likely it’s something else. Also check to make sure your timing hasn’t moved on you. It’s happened to me a few times and will cause all sorts of problems.
You can't work on cars without a compression tester. You can also use it as a leak down tester by putting it at tdc for each piston and see how fast the pressure drops. If one is way different could be bad rings or valve, sometimes you can just move the crank a little bit and the rings line up. A compression and spark tester should be in everyone's toolbox.
I had a spark plug one time that had a hair line crack in the porcelain causing a miss fire in my 72 Mustang. Could barely see it with the naked eye. Had me stumped for several days trying to diagnose it. I must have had the plugs out of that thing 3 different times and completely missed the crack.
![[UNCUT]"ตุลามรณะ"ย้อนฟังคำทำนาย หมอดูทุกสาย ดวงเมืองร้อน (หมอปลาย ฟองสนาน อ.โอเล่)I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lE5az5VvT9M/mqdefault.jpg)
Spray a small amount of water on header tubes, if one evaporates slower than the others there’s something wrong. Cheaper than a pyrometer too. Glad to see her running good!
I forgot to mention that technique.. I’ve used it many times as well 👌 thanks brother
Definitely a great process of elimination, didn’t cost a dime and got it fixed...
That spark plugs trick with the screwdriver was pretty cool. One for the books.
One of the greatest problems in society today is a lack of critical thinking. Thank you for your efforts of trying to fix this issue.
Correct again! Sometimes we simply overthink things and don’t work through the process of elimination.
While the plugs are out, I would do a compression check, and a leak down check. Lifter pre-load should be .020"-.060", with a 7/16"-20 threads per inch rocker stud would be around just under a half turn to just over a full turn. 3/8"-24 would be half turn to one and a quarter turn.
Great video. My grandpa taught me to check for fuel and spark first. If those things where good then start checking compression. Process of elimination. Lol 😆
Yep!
I always give a quick hand lap of the valves when I have the heads off just to make sure.
i love failure, a necessary step in the path to success. success= being able to sleep cuz the fox is fixed
I could definitely agree with the very first statement of this video. I had been messing with my car trying to get it running right for 3 years and I ended up going with a Holley terminator x and it solved my problems!! I believe I had a harness issue in the end. Glad to have my car going again but I know exactly what you mean with wanting to burn it to the ground!!!
Glad you got it going instead of 🔥🔥👀
@@BREW2LFOXBODY would copper based anti seize help the plug ground possibly? Or just don’t use as much?
Possibly, I just used too much though
Now that’s the way you diagnose a miss fire you gotta narrow it down to what cylinder it is then it comes down to fuel spark and compression stick to the basics! Good job brewl2👊
I kinda went about it backwards I guess but we ultimately got the job done! 😂
Nice video on troubleshooting! Just to confirm that it's not hurt, a compression check or leakdown test would be good.
If a valve no longer fully seats due to minor damage, it would quickly create play in the valve guide or possibly crack it. A puff of smoke at startup would be a tell tale sign and possible valve train noise.
If one cylinder has lower on compression on that bank do a wet compression check to see if the numbers go up. If it does, it's the ring, if not then a valve is not fully seating. Then take off the springs on the valves for that cylinder and check end play in the valve guide. That will rule out a bad valve guide and bent valve. If all else fails pull and inspect the head, and also check it for straitness. Should be under .002
That tin man stuff will get you everytime!!!! I alway put a few dabs on the plugs when i mess with alum heads!
Sticking to the basics & fundamentals are great advice.
Thanks again.
Thank you for watching 🙌
Brother always 💯 with your vids don't 🛑 !!!!!!
I'm so jealous that you can pull your valve covers without pulling the upper intake. I love my Edelbrock but it's sure a pain in the @$$ to change gaskets/tweak rockers. Keep on making the goodness man!
In reference to #8 unplugging/broken clips, the Explorers,Crown Vics, etc with 19 pound injectors have squeeze the sides injector plugs. With a safety pin or other small stiff wire you can take the pins out of the plugs and they will not unplug. Plus, the newer injectors have 4 hole ends for better atomization of fuel.
Thanks for posting the step by step for guys who aren’t as inclined as others, like myself 😆! If I have one cylinder running hotter than the others, #1 in my case, what the hell is my problem. I swapped motors and this problem followed it. It’s. Chevy 6.0 ...
It was cool to see you walk through your thought process. 8.2k and only one dislike. You're doing it right buddy! 😉
Sir. You and foxcast are the reason why I still have my fox. There have been so many time I have almost given up and almost sent my car to the junkyard. Thank you so much.
I’m glad you didn’t give up on it! It gets rough sometimes but it’s worth holding onto and working out the issues 💪😎
Dude, thanks for all the lil bits of informational videos you make. I have never Encountered this problem but it’s nice to see some one follow the steps of elimination to find the source of a issue instead of dart throwing.
Glad to help, thanks for watching 🙌
My buddies uncle bought used truck. We was swapping the plugs for him. While he wasnt looking I dipped it in oil. He looked at that plug and goes WOAH. We couldn't keep a straight face.
😂😂😂
Zinc, or trivalent plated plugs do not require anti-seize on the threads. Best way to tell; if your plugs threads are silver, or chrome in color, you dont need ant-seize. If the threads are black in color, put anti-seize on them.
This was a good one, this goes along way for folks troubleshooting and isolating.
I've also had a plug be bad right out of the box (brand-new) and I had an injector go bad on me after it had run for 10k miles. Those threw me for a loop trying to troubleshoot. Good video going through the process.
This is why I like this channel good information and no bs
Great video on diagnosing the problem. Simple and common sense goes a long way in troubleshooting
Great stuff as always man. I for sure thought it was a bad plug. I can't tell you how many times I have had a bad plug right out of the box.
sweet way to adjust valves!!! Nice work.
Thank you for making this video. This is how it usually goes when I’m working on my fox. 😂. Great stuff. I appreciate it.
Lol it’s always that way over here. You’re welcome brother
Good stuff bud. Thanks!
Fantastic! Thanks for what you do. I am more confident in working on my car the more I see your content. Keep it up.
I’m glad the videos are helping 😎
Hey fox fam!!! Just a reminder that the comercials pay for parts which brings more awesome content, thanks for the support. Don't 4get to hit that like button.
My brother! Always got my back 💪😎
@@BREW2LFOXBODY shoot yeah bubba,I love this channel... Maybe my favorite channel. Keep doing what ya doing...
I'm enjoying the content. You explain the diagnostic procedures well and emphasize to think things through and not lose your cool. I run a 430" SBF with a 118mm, full out race car. We use the infra red gun to to check header tubes all the time. Keep up the good work.
Do a compression check and next time you have a head off and suspect a valve just turn the head so the suspect port is up and drop an ounce of mineral spirits down the port. If there's any leakage at the valve you'll see dripping or wetness around the valve in the combustion chamber. I've found weeping even with new heads that needed a little more lap work or cleaning debri like compound off the seat.
Watched this video yesterday and got back out to the grind on my 93 and I think I finally figured out my issue. (fuel injectors on #3 and #4 clogged) I slowed down and followed the basics like you said! Awesome video and thanks for the inspiration to keep getting out there and building my fox!
Perfect form 👌that’s what I’m talking about 💯
Great video as always with great advice! How many times have we all been there?!? I am very guilty of immediately throwing parts at it.
I think we all have done that from time to time or either the car gets sold because people are lost and tired of messing with it.
Thanks for the video , great lesson 👍
How about some common wire troubleshooting like the Airbag light and check engine lights? Common Fox problems
We can do that. I’ve covered most of those things throughout the years though. But it wouldn’t hurt to go over it again in one video.
Awesome!! Thanks. Enjoy all your videos and learning how-to
Thanks bud!
I remember the first time i put WAY too much anti seize on my plugs and it actually got on the tip and fouled them. I didn't know any the time that there was a such as "too much" lol.
I thought I wasn’t applying that much... guess between what was already in the threads of the head and what I added to the plug was too much.
Awesome video! Just a suggestion, when removing the coil wire try to remove the actual connector to the MSD coil (primary side) With that still plugged in the coil can create high voltage and that can travel anywhere nearby or to you!
Very true! Great tip 👌
Kick ass diag video, and thank god it wasn't on the passenger side!
Lmao, I was thinking the same thing bro 👀🤦♂️😂
Sending it to the shop blowing money love this gentleman ✌️ da best
The garage is looking great
Thanks brother 😎
Glad you figured it out
Cool video bud with a lot of information. I had a issue with a 89 Fox I had A few years ago. It would run great but once it got hot it would start missing and then get to the point that it would die and not start. Narrowed it down to the TFI module which I replaced with one from O’Reillys and it ran great until it started doing it again. So this time I replaced it with a oem one and again it ran great for awhile and started doing it again. This was my daily driver I ended up trading it for a 95 bronco with a 351w 35s and a 6in lift.
I later found out about the bad locations these and how they would get hot if you don’t use that gel stuff which I didn’t use. I had 16 of these cars and never had this issue except with this 89.
I currently have a 89 and a 86 with TTops. I bought the TFI relocation which I install on all my Foxbodies.
Never figured out why the 89 done this. It was cammed with a F cam, svo roller rockers, 5spd swap,4.10s,cai, Offroad H-pipe, flowmaster 10s.
When I sold it I thought it was a electric issue or I’d never sold it. Really regret selling it.
That sucks.. no telling what it was either. Probably a bad wire somewhere it was my luck....
Great video, I enjoy all your videos! I agree with everything you said only difference between us is I go for the easiest thing first! I start at the plug then the plug wire, then check compression while the plugs out and most of the time that will tell you if you have internal problems in the motor! I guess that’s just the difference in mechanics everyone has their own way of doing things!! Like I said man great videos!!!!!
Thanks brother! I would have checked the plugs first but I literally just changed them.
Man I totally understand, I’ve got a 91 gt and it’s a labor of love!!!! I’ve got a 91 F-250 with the 5.0 in it and I’m chasing a demon in it, I believe it’s got a sensor bad, it want to flood all the time!! I’m about to lose what little hair I have left!!!!
@@traviswhite1461 have you changed out the ACT and ECT sensors? Might be worth looking into. Although I’m not very well versed in the f250 world it could be the same as the cars. It’s a know issue that causes flooding mainly when it’s cold.
Hey def feeling it, been chasing a thing on my fox also. I hope is a cheap fix or at least correct fix so I’m been taking my time eliminating different guesses (I’m thinking vacuum lines nowadays haha)
I've got to say...that very issue you had, I had on My N/A 94 GT, It was just that.....To much Anti-Seize on the Plug, less is more. I'm glad to know that I wasn't the only one XD
I honestly didn’t think I used that much but I guess I did. 😂
Yeah me either, but its the heat that really gets to the anti seize, liquifies it and sometimes fouls out the plug.
@@shredfast4819 yep, it gets hot and starts flowing out
Honestly kinda miss watching the intros before the videos. Still damn good videos nonetheless. Keep it up BREW2L!
As always very informative and great video 👍👍
BREW2L brother love your videos it helps me out alot on my Foxbody thanks man
You’re welcome Troy
Process of elimination...very nice video. 💪
Start the car pull the plug wires with some welding gloves (so you don’t get shocked ) if it doesn’t run different when you pull one that will tell you where to look.
Great video!! I’m still tuning mine up that was sitting for years. Was running perfectly smooth and then ended up sounding like yours in this video. This gives me a great amount of help in troubleshooting!! Thank you.
I do have black spark plugs.
Do you have a way to reach you for additional help and guidance? Or no
Good stuff! Have you heard of using a spray bottle of water to test exhaust? Nice one with the screwdriver in the plug wire!
Yes I’ve used that technique a few times before. Thanks brother
Testing exhaust like that works for headers not manifolds really. In my opinion. I got ya brewlk👀
The only part of my mustang I absolutely hate....is changing a spark plug...it just plain sux....drop the headers to change plugs...cause you dont just change 1...if you have to do all that work..change them all.
I can agree 💯
Correct me if I’m wrong but I believe NGK plugs have anti seize on the threads that’s why they are shiny? I run them in aluminum heads and never put anything on them.
I’ve never noticed any anti seize on them before
@@BREW2LFOXBODY It’s not a typical anti seize I think it’s some sort of coating on the threads that prevents it from seizing in the head and damaging the threads. I’ll have to look around to be sure. Great video by the way
That was great , ty sir
I have what sounds like a miss every once in a blue moon that I am trying to figure out now, I used the rubber on cap trick to see if any of the cylinders where dead yet everything is fine. I think I will look into timing next. Q: Giving I have the parts now would you, A. Time the car first B. Install the parts before timing "cap/rotor/plugs/wire" car is original 140k mile car.
Go ahead and time it first
Pull the plugs first. It's fast easy&can tell you a lot before you ever go further.
👍 thank you for that!
Bet its a wire thats going bad up in the dash somewhere by the cluster.
You prolly know this but do a dry and a wet compression test. If the compression goes up with the wet test compared to the dry test then you have worn rings.
I try not to do compression test on my cars lol unless I absolutely have to. They always hurt your feelings 😕😂
@@BREW2LFOXBODY cant argue with that man lol
this is such a good video, thanks for this one.
Im ready to see you rip it up again!!
Just shot that video today! 🔥💪
Glad you got it and it was not your rings. Do you think it is bad to use antisieze on the spark plugs or what this just too much?
It’s a good thing on aluminum heads but just don’t use too much.
My 50 misses after rev into 5 6k driving or not. Installed New dizzy new coil new wires. Not replaced plugs yet. Drives smooth as daily. When in the mustard it starts to skip. Help?
Possibly the plugs
2 things, where did you get the NGKs? china has been making fakes for years now that are crap. You need to get your plugs from reputable dealers. Google it to see the differences.
And second, once a plug gets wet it can carbon track and the plug will short out under combustion pressure, and spark fine outside the cylinder.
keep it running good it too purty to give up on!!!!!
🙌
I got a little miss and it’s at the thousand RPM Mark it’s starting to skip and miss and my engine starts to shake I can’t figure it out for the love of God
And hey...for help bc of that.. check your rotar button really good. Ever the tiniest pin hole thought the main copper tab can be the cause of that as well as a weak coil. Low rpm ok as well as high but more or less than that can also cause that.weak coils also come off as a poorly tuned carb or an out of tune efi system as if the fuel management system isn't working accordingly. May seem to run rich...but run so I assume it's too much fuel when in reality it's just not enough spark.any questions or help I would be open too.
Well, I must agree with my friend Gene in saying it could be a weak coil, or your timing has moved on you.
@@BREW2LFOXBODY ty friend. You know honestly what your best quality that I have seen is you always leave your self open to suggestions and or better ways to handle,fix, or diagnose the solution. We can relate.
I’m just out here trying to help people brother.
Me too. I love helping. Swear. I could do an engine swap for free just to have someone to talk to or swap stories with. Car stories and diagnosis and symptoms that you don't find in a step by step manual. You do good and I apologise I swear. I would like to think that your channel isn't kid based in a way or beginner based however that's wrong of me. Sorry break and william. U have a subscriber and fan. I just miss the content that best relates I guess. Pls ignore what I said.
I sed don’t put Anti-seize on the spark plugs and if you do you use copper anti-seize and only the smallest a mount
Was it you in the comments that said that back when I was doing it? I couldn’t remember who it was.
@@BREW2LFOXBODY I think I sed it if I didn’t I know I was yelling at my phone noooooo don’t to it
@@BREW2LFOXBODY what probably happens was when the Anti-seize got hot they probably got onto the electrode of the spark plug creating a path of least resistance making a weak spark or smothering the tip of the electrode not allowing it to create a spark
@@BREW2LFOXBODY my engine builder also noted that anti-seize also changes the heat range of the plug. Just a dab of Copper anti-seize if you must. Love the channel!
Think you may have a tiny piece of gasket in between he seat and valve
Great vid!
Great video!
I just did a oil pan gasket i have a wayyyyy easyer way to do it the gasket will easily stretch over the oil pan i used the felpro didnt have to lift motor or any thing didnt have to get past oil pump and pick up
Nice! So you were able to just lower the pan some and slide it up the pan?
@@BREW2LFOXBODY yep took 5 mins to get the gasket in took longer to take the pan bolts out
If you get a chance to tell ppl about that to save them alot of time its really a good trick
Awesome tip, that's gold. I have heard of a similar way where a person tied some string on the corners and was able to fish it down and around the oil pump and crank but it took a certain degree of determination and nimble fingers.
I also heard some mechanics will charge like they had to lift the engine but slice the gasket and slap it on with some extra rtv where they cut it. I don't recommend that technique but if a guy is in a pinch it will work.
@@codywilliams463 will do 👌
What ya say skip skip skip I'd get a book also 😜 Ihead gasket mine is in need I'm kinda sure
I wish only wish I could install a knew coolant tube and intake manifold in my 1996. Gt 4.6l. V8idles great once in bit she will feel like she's rough never moves the rpms hold steady prity much. Only at start she seems to hang way up around 2thousand rpm goes down real slow wtf 😒
Gonna try and save most money possible your thee best and double like if there was one for that
So should you not use anti seize on the threads of the spark plugs?
Yes in aluminum heads especially.. although many people don’t. Just remember a little goes a long way.
My 89 gt has a fuel system issue. I'm thinking either bad injector or pressure regulator. At low speed in town it floods
Could be a fuel pressure issue for sure.
Hey man, I hope I can get some help here. I just finished installing my first turbo ever on my fox body. Can you explain how to run the vacuum line of the wastegate without boost controller ?
I’m pretty sure I just ran mine from the intake down to the lower fitting on the wastegate and left the top port open. But please verify for your setup with someone else just to make sure.
Terrific videos I just found your Chanel you have a new subscriber in SLC. I am new to the 302 but I just built one for my 96 F150. Check it out. I just got it all dialed in Wow I’m way happy with it. Anyway thanks man I just ran a timing light on it and used your sand paper trick!!!!!
Brew2L, do we still have that failure contest going on? I know I can take you man
😂😂 I don’t know I’ve been killing it lately 👀
I just ask Jrichker. Haha
The mustang forums genius
nah.. it wasnt anti seize.. its def the computer, tps, or tfi module.. its always those 3..
definitely 😂👌
Did you adjust the lash ?? Or just tighten them down to torque
You can’t set hydraulic lifters by lash. They are set by preload. So I usually tighten them 1/4 to 1/2 turn after I finger tighten them.
TR6 plug with a turbo. OK
Why not just start with a compression and a leak down test before all that? Be my first tests before touching anything personally. Thatll tell you a lot.
I never watched the full video and actually didn't get passed 30secbut this man is right... Minis the compression test.. compression tests are mobile mechanics tools. Leak down test tells you everything you need to now. How much cylinder pressure.. if it leaks down.. you can check the top of the cylinder mid and bottom for egg shape. Tells the story of valves intake and exhaust.if the guage reads great at the top or bottom valves are good... If you move the crank around and place the piston in a diff position and the pressure drops or drops the rises it's a worn cylinder or egg shaped. Yw ppl. Anyone that wants to send me $500 for diagnosis is more than marrier.lol
Ik I'm talking too much and y'all will probably never see me again comment... But to add to the leak down.. the crank will turn and allow the piston the hit the bottom of the stroke.. when determining eggshape I use a 1/2 drive wratchet approx 16-20 inches in length attach it to the crankshaft with the proper socketandblock it from spinning in a few stages. I check in 1/4s but most just check top bottom and mid. But I wanna know if it wore on the up or down stroke to cause the shape.. but hey.. I never went to school for anything 🤣🤣 so what do I know. Up stroke would cause larger bore at top and vice versa. Helps determine where the unbalance maybe.
Yo brew2l you think buying a higher amp alternator has it's benefits?..
Not on a completely stock car, other than the fact that it’s a new alternator and should last longer. But if you have a system or anything extra pulling power then yes absolutely
Buying a higher amperage alternator definitely has its benefits even if your engine in stock! Start your car turn on your headlights and your blower and check your voltage while idling, I am willing to bet your voltage is low! Everything on your car was designed to run at a certain voltage, With the age of these vehicles I guarantee your volts or not where they are supposed to be for everything to run properly! My father has a 92 LX Convertible with an AOD! I swapped every single bulb interior and exterior with LEDs and also installed a 130 amp alternator and replaced all the main power and ground wires! With his car idling in gear hi beams on, blower on high, A/C on which also turns both electric fans on high his voltage is sitting at about 12.5V! Before when you would come to an idle you would hear both fuel pumps slow down because of the voltage drop, Not anymore they are constantly screaming! I know there are plenty of people in the comment section who have no idea what they are talking about end it is hard to trust a stranger, So Google Muscle Mustangs and Fast Ford ( The Bold and the Beautiful)! It is a write up about a girl and her trio of mustangs, 2 Saleen’s and a 98 cobra! That is my work!
Hey I’m putting a Vortech Supercharger LLC my 5.0 didn’t know if I can get in contact with brewl to be able to run some things by you
I dont know but grey color in you spark plug dont look any good.
I need a brew2l hat!! I checked website and its down!!!
I’ll have hats ready next week they will be available over at www.shopbrew2l.com
Hey please get back to me I've been having trouble with my fox 1990 I really need help and I can tell you what process I've done and what its doing long story short. Driver header getting red hot really bad idle timing is good brand new engine 331 stroker edlebrock performance rpm heads I checked compression its all good. Checked tps at key on engine off 5.044 v very odd checked voltage at with sensor off car at the white 10 pin connector tps still 5.04 v im thinking its the ecm. I've called lmr and bbk and a pro engine shop near me has them stumped.
Do a leak down test, power balances test.. stop playing do it right or don't it's at all.
Been there, done that. Lol
My car hesitate around 4300 rpm for a second or 2 when I’m getting on it it’s a built 306 fuel injection car car idles good and ect I change coil an it still does it car is tuned as well and it actually lost lots of power no smoke or anything wat could it be it’s a 91 5.0
Could be that it just needs new plugs, a lot of the time the gap is too much on the plugs and at high rpm it will have a misfire. Also it could be the TFI module. But typically they will just go bad on you and the car won’t run. Also check car and rotor button for corrosion
@@BREW2LFOXBODY thanks bud I check plugs they seem to be good I put a cheap tfi module in her months ago but it seems to fire up fine thought about changing her to motorcraft .I’ll LOok at what you said I never changed distributor I used same one that was with my old build before I bore her .30 over it may even be the original one . Tfi went out months ago that’s why I changed it do you think the distributor is in its way out next ?
@@dkurcereacts there is a chance the distributor is going out but most likely it’s something else. Also check to make sure your timing hasn’t moved on you. It’s happened to me a few times and will cause all sorts of problems.
@@BREW2LFOXBODY ok car is dyno tuned so I wonder if it’s the distributor 🤔
Could be. But it’s definitely worth checking the timing. Unless it has an aftermarket computer in it. Then don’t touch it. Lol
Damn almost first!
Close 💪👀
First
👌😎
I dont understand the foxbody thing. Theyre so ugly lol
Hey, nothing wrong with your opinion 💯
You can't work on cars without a compression tester. You can also use it as a leak down tester by putting it at tdc for each piston and see how fast the pressure drops. If one is way different could be bad rings or valve, sometimes you can just move the crank a little bit and the rings line up.
A compression and spark tester should be in everyone's toolbox.
I had a spark plug one time that had a hair line crack in the porcelain causing a miss fire in my 72 Mustang. Could barely see it with the naked eye. Had me stumped for several days trying to diagnose it. I must have had the plugs out of that thing 3 different times and completely missed the crack.
That one is hard to diagnose sometimes for sure. Lol