I think the example with speed doesn't make as much sense as pressing the gas petal. Like an inverter allows you to press the gas pedal like normal but a single stage is only petal to the metal or nothing. Speed is more like the room temperature
So many old heads HATE on these systems, yet they seemingly are the future. I'm in Florida and looking to buy one. Here's the interesting part, I reviewed the Goodman you mentioned in one of your last videos (whole house heat pump) BUT guess what... it wasn't EnergyStar Compliant for Florida! I was blown away because between pricing, warranty, and a repair warranty that was offered I was really impressed and yet it was the EXACT same system as the Daikin (i think) I'd love your feedback for a Energy Star compliant, 3 ton for FL. Side Discharge
All new buildings should be designed with large roof overhangs. The large overhang provides beauty and protection from the sun, rain and wind. Protection of the doors, windows and siding make for a more durable and comfortable home. Water is the enemy of buildings.
Thank you for this video. I have been watching your channel off and on for about a year. In my opinion, this was the best and most informative video I have seen on the channel. At times previous video dialogue seemed too rushed and the editing seemed somewhat clunky. When the pacing is too fast the complexity of the technical jargon can be overwhelming. I appreciate you and your mission to educate the masses on this technology, and this video hit a sweet spot of information and clarity for me. Well done!👍 Question: If I ask for a local contractor referral, how do you vet prospective contractors, and how are you compensated for your time?
Any advice on how to set schedule for ad hoc dual fuel system? 100 year-old frame home with 10 yo gas-driven water-circulating furnace controlled by Honeywell thermostat. Recently replaced 2 AC compressors, each with Daikin FIT inverters with DaikinOne thermostats. Annual temp range in the area is ~20-95, and gas/elec prices suggest best to run as dual fuel system. Two Qs: 1. Any way to run off of 1 thermostat rather than 3? 2. Advice on how to schedule? Perhaps set Daikin day/night schedule, with furnace to follow shift to day temp 1hr later to supplement when temps are low and Daikin is struggling?
Does Daikin heat pump with air handler (110V) needs to be paired with Daikin proprietary thermostat ? Can it be used with Google nest ? This is the summary of the install recommended Install Daikin Variable Speed 4-Ton Outdoor Heat Pump - Variable Inverted Compressor - Install Daikin 4-Ton Indoor Air Handler - Variable Communicating - Daikin (2) Zone System - Install Premium MERV Air Filtration - Install Daikin Thermostat Controller
I think you left out an important piece, regarding using springs on the mounting installation to help in shock vibrations to increase lifespan. What's your take on the importance of this spring mountings for heat pumps installation?
I am building a new garage/home north of Syracuse NY. (very little airconditioning in the summer and occassional periods below O deg. in the winter) I am of the understanding I will need to include a heat recovery ventilation system for fresh air changes. How would that be incorporated into a dual source, ducted, forced air (propane furnace) system?
I'm always wondering why you are a huge fan of dual fuel. For comfort, sure there is probably benefit there. But from a savings perspective, if a furnace is my last gas appliance, then I'm stuck paying for the connection fee on my gas account for a very narrow use case. In my case I'm in Ohio, and my connection fee is $52 per month... So there's $600 per year just for the standby capability to have a furnace. I think I'd be hard pressed to save anywhere close to that even in a super cold winter. Even if I have electric strip heat for backup I feel like I won't spend anywhere near $600 in "extra" electricity. Can someone sanity check me?
If you had straight electric heat you can easily pay $600 in electricity in a month and much more too Heat pump different story depending on which one and your home and ductwork and other factors
@FrancoBarbagallo1 I would be heat pump with electric strip for emergencies. I think the strips are overkill.... And I don't have any redundancy on my ancient dinosaur of a furnace today, but the contractor is all but insisting on me getting them. My other question is why is there a cutoff point for electric strips? The two reasons again would be comfort and cost. I'm okay with when it's negative outside my home can't be mid 70s... I think it's crazy that we expect that. But for cost, is there ever a temperature where your COP goes below 1 for any heat pump that exists today? I would imagine you get to lockout temps before you could get that low of an efficiency.
@@blitzzer24 you live in a cold climate. If cost of operation is a priority to you a heat pump will cost more to run than a gas furnace. Remember efficiency and cost are 2 different things, you can be more efficient with a heat pump meaning you’re making a more efficient usage on energy but using a more expensive energy source If you’re going all electric you most likely need to have electric back up heat Heat pumps defrost, while unit is defrosting there’s no heat unless you have back up Ohio gets cold, really cold at times. Under the right conditions the heat pump can completely shut of for a period of time I’d need a lot more info about your home, proper load calculation is crucial and ductwork size. Heat pump heat is lower temperature coming out of the equipment which means you need more airflow to carry the btus of heating needed vs a gas furnace So if your ductwork was sized for gas heat and straight ac chances are you don’t have enough cfm to achieve heating capacity needed for the whole house with a heat pump So axing ductwork is often required or supplementing with ductless Dual fuel eliminates most of this challenges Your $57 a month in gas connection can rapidly start looking cheap if you go all electric the wrong way
@@FrancoBarbagallo1 I appreciate the input. For me the cost isn't the primary driving factor. I have solar that covers most of my needs from electricity, and know that adding in a heat pump will increase my costs on the electrical side, but REALLY want a life with as little fossil fuels as possible. We have 2 EVs, and the rest of our home is electric, (induction stove, HPWH, HP washer/dryer) so the last holdout is my furnace. My home is small (roughly 1600 sq feet when factoring in the finished basement, 1300 ish without), was recently re insulated (windows are drafty still, but that's a later me project) and we currently have a COMICALLY oversized furnace. (110k BTU 🫠🫠) Our ductwork is going to be refit slightly, and I may need to include a small 9k BTU mini split in the attic office because it's outside the conditioned envelope so my winter days can get a bit chilly if the gaming PC isn't cranking some 4K gaming. My AC is also a dinosaur and is rated at SEER 10, and that is original SEER not SEER2, and is so old that it's got to be way less efficient than that. I'm hoping that when factoring in savings from the huge increase in AC efficiency, and replacing the old and way oversized furnace, that we don't see costs go up too much, and when considering our connection fee going away, may even see some savings. If it ends up costing a little more, it's worth it for the increased comfort/ humidity management (currently spending about $40 a month on dehumidifiers in the summer because of the AC being too expensive to run full time), and quieter outside space is worth the small increase. Or I'll hate myself in a few years. Either way, it's time for a change and I need both a furnace and AC, so I figured the timing for a central ducted heat pump couldn't be better.
This "connection fee" is a regional thing. In Ontario, once gas is connected - there is no other fee. Use no gas, pay nothing. So a dual fuel gas system was a no brainer for me which I have had to use a few times already. Electric heat would have been astronomically higher as the backup.
i need a central heating and central cooling, and i also need hot water. I want to use R32 because i think the R454B is going to face challenges from PFAS regulations, and it seems R32 will be easier to service. Can I buy one Daikin VRF (VRV?) system and be fine and have one outdoor unit? How does it get chained with an ERV and a dehum? Thank you very much for considering this question. It seems a lot of folks try to get the sizing just perfect, however perfecting that calculation doesn't seem to be relevant if you have an inverter system and independent dehum, a lot of youtubers talk about sizing and geography without explaining the underlying mechanics and the possibility of a 'one and done' system that just incorporates a dehumidifier.
This is my new Daiken Heat pump, how can I tell if it’s an Inverter? And it appears to be the “FIT” model, correct? Daiken: Multi-Position, Variable-Speed, ECM-Based Air Handler with Internal EEV Communicating For Daikin fit matchups 1½ to 5 Tons
That's just a description of an air handler... model number is on the unit itself if you post that people will be able to chime in on what you actually have, DZ6 is the condenser but there's 7 or 8 different variations of that based on size and enhanced vs standard but if you look at the outdoor unit you'll have the outdoor model number and the indoor unit is the indoor model number
I'd love to hear you discuss in more detail heat pumps for people in moderate climates. I live in Southern California in a climate where it rarely gets below 40 or above 100. In the video you say that is a good situation for a single stage heat pumps, but you don't really say why. You then go on to say a hot climate like Phoenix is where an inverter system is good, but that when it is 110 out it will go on full blast anyway. I guess I'm confused why you would suggest a single stage system for a climate where the normal high temperatures in the summer are in the 85-95 degree range. Wouldn't that be where an inverter system that rarely needs 100% cooling power be ideal? Genuinely trying to understand this as my house currently has a 35 year old furnace and no AC and I want put in a new system (most likely a heat pump) this year.
I like in NY and it's currently 25°. I have a BOSCH IDS PREMIUM 4TON 20.SEER and it sucks. The aux heat I have is the10k electric heat kit and it does not heat my house above 68 when the sun is down. It sounds like a prop plane or a old work truck idling outside my house all night. I would not recommend a heat pump without a dual fuel air handler.
I live in new york. I recently had a Bosch 20 seer IDs premium installed. It sounds like an old work truck running all day in any temp under 40°. I have a 1800 sq ft house and the aux heat is the 10K heat strip that Bosch makes for the air handler. Basically runs all night and doesn't stop until the sun is beaming down on the house. I would not recommend a heat pump unless you had a furnace, dual fuel unit.
I watched one of your previous videos on the Bosch IDS Premium 20 Seer. Lost my HW Boiler in a flood and figured I'd convert to heat pump since I had solar panels. Well, fast forward to 20 degree days, I can honestly say I HATE IT! This stupid heat pump never stops running. I didn't get dual fuel, but then again, the installer said it would be fine and I could just add the heat strip. Well, it sucks. The thing sounds like an old work truck idling outside my house. It labors all day to keep my house in the mid to high 60s in any weather under 35 degrees... But the specs say it will produce heat down to -4°. Yeah, I call bullshit. Maybe if you have dual fuel where the furnace is doing the work. I basically wasted 11k and my house is now being heated with my fireplace when the temps are below 35. I WILL NOT be recommending heat pumps and I'm friggin pissed that NONE of this was mentioned in any of the resources I found. After using the system and finding all this out, the installer tells me he mostly does dual fuel systems and doesn't really install systems that aren't. I feel like filing a lawsuit against my installer for misleading me or punching him on his face. Either way I'll be spending money on attorneys. HEAT PUMPS SUCK!
Sounds like something is wrong with the install if it always sounds like that... we install them in Colorado and don't have those complaints if it's always loud something is wrong. During a defrost cycle it will make some noise but it shouldn't be so loud that it sounds like a diesel idling, and it's not 24/7. Refrigerant Charge can cause issues if that's off but I would get a second opinion on things if the installer can't get it right
They work as advertised and often do not need resistive backup. However, it’s not an efficient way to heat. The unit maintains capacity, yes, but efficiency drops off a cliff.
Yes they're good systems but below 10F they do lose efficiency, everything does except geothermal. Which means it's basically a cop of 2.0~2.5 or so and gets lower as it drops below that, but they definitely work
The problem is the average family can't afford a system that will qualify for any rebates because the minimum seer rating is 15.2 and to achieve that you have to have a evaporator coil to get there
Hi. Great channel. I appreciate your knowledge and enthusiasm. I just had a Bosch IDS 2.0 Heat Pump/Propane furnace installed in August 2024. It's now Jan 2025. I started with a Honeywell T6 thermostat that I had already on the wall from the old oil furnace, but the installer went to a T9. Fine, even though I suspected it wasn't needed. Maybe it was, I don't know. But after 6 failed service calls for vaious problems, including having Aux Heat come on "while" the outside fan was spinning, they went to a T10. Still no good as outside fan was still spinning while Aux heat on, until I got on the phone with tech support and chose the correct options in the Honeywell menu. This is all in addition to the installer leaving me with a gas leak that I only discovered after a month when I went to paint the pipes and cleaned them first, seeing bubbling at the Union. Terrible contractor. He didn't care, and demonstrated it in many ways, never helping me, or communicating with me at all after the sale. He pushed the sale and the switch to propane and the Bosch heat pump, and then abandoned me. His crew were nice guys, but they seem to not be adept at these new systems as they are all old school. I still had tipped them all generously at every failed service call, and did everything to make them comfortable during the initial install by feeding them, making sure they all had water every few hours, opened my bathroom freely etc. So, my problem is that my electric bill quadrupled in the fall in NJ because the heat pump was running. Now in January, the propane is running and the electric bill seems sort of ok. Still high, but not that much more than last year with the old 20+ year old oil furnace. But, my fear is the spring, when the heat pump kicks in again. I set it to come on at 45 degrees. Here's my concern. If the electric bill is going to be that high, maybe I should never use the heat pump and only the propane in all seasons. This is very disappointing because I thought I'd be saving money on the propane, but never expected these huge electric bills. Everything I've read about this system says it's state of the art technology and very efficient, but I'm not sure I'm getting the benefits of it. Looks like these guys sell the system, but just don't understand how to tweak it because of course this outside unit, the actual furnace and the thermostat all have to talk to each other for optimum performance. Is there a way I can hire you to take a look at all my settings via video to make sure all is well? I'm pretty handy and also have been building computers for decades, so I think I could do it with your help. Finally, I pay all my bills without complaining, but I just need to know that this system is setup correctly. Please let me know. Thanks.
Where are you located? Ur handle says NYC... We can probably find a local contractor to fix you up, Integrate Comfort Systems is based in New Jersey and services the city and they're familiar with these. Did they fix the refrigerant leak? It definitely needs to be recharged if they didn't deal with that and fix it properly I think they just don't know what they're doing.
@@TheHVACDopeShow Thanks for the reply. No refrigerant leak. I was mentioning a leak in the pipe (union), they installed to run propane into the house. I took care of that myself. I'm born and bred in NYC, but this house is in NJ. Have had a difficult time finding someone well versed in these units. I'll call Integrate Comfort Systems Monday. Do you have anyone else in NJ, or close by that you can also recommend? Thanks again.
I can confirm this. They are not less efficient they basically don't work in anything under 40° unless you have a supplemental heat source. I have the aux heat kit that Bosch makes for the air handler and it sucks. I have the 10kw kitkit and it can't keep up. My house was built in 2007, well insulated and we just had two back-to-back bills that were $350. We have solar panels but last winter our electric bill was around $150. Not to mention it sounds like a work truck is idling outside my house all night because the thing can't produce heat efficiently.
I can confirm this. They are not less efficient they basically don't work in anything under 40° unless you have a supplemental heat source. I have the aux heat kit that Bosch makes for the air handler and it sucks. I have the 10kw kitkit and it can't keep up. My house was built in 2007, well insulated and we just had two back-to-back bills that were $350. We have solar panels but last winter our electric bill was around $150. Not to mention it sounds like a work truck is idling outside my house all night because the thing can't produce heat efficiently.
I think the example with speed doesn't make as much sense as pressing the gas petal. Like an inverter allows you to press the gas pedal like normal but a single stage is only petal to the metal or nothing. Speed is more like the room temperature
So many old heads HATE on these systems, yet they seemingly are the future. I'm in Florida and looking to buy one. Here's the interesting part, I reviewed the Goodman you mentioned in one of your last videos (whole house heat pump) BUT guess what... it wasn't EnergyStar Compliant for Florida! I was blown away because between pricing, warranty, and a repair warranty that was offered I was really impressed and yet it was the EXACT same system as the Daikin (i think)
I'd love your feedback for a Energy Star compliant, 3 ton for FL. Side Discharge
My hvac guy doesn’t install Goodman or Raheem anymore.I spelt the second brand wrong lol
All new buildings should be designed with large roof overhangs. The large overhang provides beauty and protection from the sun, rain and wind.
Protection of the doors, windows and siding make for a more durable and comfortable home. Water is the enemy of buildings.
But what about wind uplifting.
Thank you for this video. I have been watching your channel off and on for about a year. In my opinion, this was the best and most informative video I have seen on the channel. At times previous video dialogue seemed too rushed and the editing seemed somewhat clunky. When the pacing is too fast the complexity of the technical jargon can be overwhelming. I appreciate you and your mission to educate the masses on this technology, and this video hit a sweet spot of information and clarity for me. Well done!👍 Question: If I ask for a local contractor referral, how do you vet prospective contractors, and how are you compensated for your time?
Agree!
Any advice on how to set schedule for ad hoc dual fuel system? 100 year-old frame home with 10 yo gas-driven water-circulating furnace controlled by Honeywell thermostat. Recently replaced 2 AC compressors, each with Daikin FIT inverters with DaikinOne thermostats. Annual temp range in the area is ~20-95, and gas/elec prices suggest best to run as dual fuel system. Two Qs:
1. Any way to run off of 1 thermostat rather than 3?
2. Advice on how to schedule? Perhaps set Daikin day/night schedule, with furnace to follow shift to day temp 1hr later to supplement when temps are low and Daikin is struggling?
What I meant on the evaporator coil is it has to be big enough to get the 15.2 rating
I want to heat a house-boat.
What's wrong with Propane, as a refrigerant?
Does Daikin heat pump with air handler (110V) needs to be paired with Daikin proprietary thermostat ? Can it be used with Google nest ?
This is the summary of the install recommended
Install Daikin Variable Speed 4-Ton Outdoor Heat Pump - Variable Inverted Compressor - Install Daikin 4-Ton Indoor Air Handler - Variable Communicating - Daikin (2) Zone System - Install Premium MERV Air Filtration - Install Daikin Thermostat Controller
I think you left out an important piece, regarding using springs on the mounting installation to help in shock vibrations to increase lifespan. What's your take on the importance of this spring mountings for heat pumps installation?
I am building a new garage/home north of Syracuse NY. (very little airconditioning in the summer and occassional periods below O deg. in the winter) I am of the understanding I will need to include a heat recovery ventilation system for fresh air changes. How would that be incorporated into a dual source, ducted, forced air (propane furnace) system?
Will that Daikin work with most regular electric furnaces
I'm always wondering why you are a huge fan of dual fuel. For comfort, sure there is probably benefit there. But from a savings perspective, if a furnace is my last gas appliance, then I'm stuck paying for the connection fee on my gas account for a very narrow use case.
In my case I'm in Ohio, and my connection fee is $52 per month... So there's $600 per year just for the standby capability to have a furnace. I think I'd be hard pressed to save anywhere close to that even in a super cold winter. Even if I have electric strip heat for backup I feel like I won't spend anywhere near $600 in "extra" electricity. Can someone sanity check me?
If you had straight electric heat you can easily pay $600 in electricity in a month and much more too
Heat pump different story depending on which one and your home and ductwork and other factors
@FrancoBarbagallo1 I would be heat pump with electric strip for emergencies. I think the strips are overkill.... And I don't have any redundancy on my ancient dinosaur of a furnace today, but the contractor is all but insisting on me getting them.
My other question is why is there a cutoff point for electric strips? The two reasons again would be comfort and cost. I'm okay with when it's negative outside my home can't be mid 70s... I think it's crazy that we expect that.
But for cost, is there ever a temperature where your COP goes below 1 for any heat pump that exists today? I would imagine you get to lockout temps before you could get that low of an efficiency.
@@blitzzer24 you live in a cold climate. If cost of operation is a priority to you a heat pump will cost more to run than a gas furnace. Remember efficiency and cost are 2 different things, you can be more efficient with a heat pump meaning you’re making a more efficient usage on energy but using a more expensive energy source
If you’re going all electric you most likely need to have electric back up heat
Heat pumps defrost, while unit is defrosting there’s no heat unless you have back up
Ohio gets cold, really cold at times. Under the right conditions the heat pump can completely shut of for a period of time
I’d need a lot more info about your home, proper load calculation is crucial and ductwork size. Heat pump heat is lower temperature coming out of the equipment which means you need more airflow to carry the btus of heating needed vs a gas furnace
So if your ductwork was sized for gas heat and straight ac chances are you don’t have enough cfm to achieve heating capacity needed for the whole house with a heat pump
So axing ductwork is often required or supplementing with ductless
Dual fuel eliminates most of this challenges
Your $57 a month in gas connection can rapidly start looking cheap if you go all electric the wrong way
@@FrancoBarbagallo1 I appreciate the input. For me the cost isn't the primary driving factor. I have solar that covers most of my needs from electricity, and know that adding in a heat pump will increase my costs on the electrical side, but REALLY want a life with as little fossil fuels as possible.
We have 2 EVs, and the rest of our home is electric, (induction stove, HPWH, HP washer/dryer) so the last holdout is my furnace.
My home is small (roughly 1600 sq feet when factoring in the finished basement, 1300 ish without), was recently re insulated (windows are drafty still, but that's a later me project) and we currently have a COMICALLY oversized furnace. (110k BTU 🫠🫠) Our ductwork is going to be refit slightly, and I may need to include a small 9k BTU mini split in the attic office because it's outside the conditioned envelope so my winter days can get a bit chilly if the gaming PC isn't cranking some 4K gaming.
My AC is also a dinosaur and is rated at SEER 10, and that is original SEER not SEER2, and is so old that it's got to be way less efficient than that. I'm hoping that when factoring in savings from the huge increase in AC efficiency, and replacing the old and way oversized furnace, that we don't see costs go up too much, and when considering our connection fee going away, may even see some savings.
If it ends up costing a little more, it's worth it for the increased comfort/ humidity management (currently spending about $40 a month on dehumidifiers in the summer because of the AC being too expensive to run full time), and quieter outside space is worth the small increase.
Or I'll hate myself in a few years. Either way, it's time for a change and I need both a furnace and AC, so I figured the timing for a central ducted heat pump couldn't be better.
This "connection fee" is a regional thing. In Ontario, once gas is connected - there is no other fee. Use no gas, pay nothing. So a dual fuel gas system was a no brainer for me which I have had to use a few times already. Electric heat would have been astronomically higher as the backup.
i need a central heating and central cooling, and i also need hot water. I want to use R32 because i think the R454B is going to face challenges from PFAS regulations, and it seems R32 will be easier to service. Can I buy one Daikin VRF (VRV?) system and be fine and have one outdoor unit? How does it get chained with an ERV and a dehum? Thank you very much for considering this question. It seems a lot of folks try to get the sizing just perfect, however perfecting that calculation doesn't seem to be relevant if you have an inverter system and independent dehum, a lot of youtubers talk about sizing and geography without explaining the underlying mechanics and the possibility of a 'one and done' system that just incorporates a dehumidifier.
This is my new Daiken Heat pump, how can I tell if it’s an Inverter? And it appears to be the “FIT” model, correct?
Daiken:
Multi-Position, Variable-Speed,
ECM-Based Air Handler
with Internal EEV
Communicating
For Daikin fit matchups
1½ to 5 Tons
That's just a description of an air handler... model number is on the unit itself if you post that people will be able to chime in on what you actually have, DZ6 is the condenser but there's 7 or 8 different variations of that based on size and enhanced vs standard but if you look at the outdoor unit you'll have the outdoor model number and the indoor unit is the indoor model number
I'd love to hear you discuss in more detail heat pumps for people in moderate climates. I live in Southern California in a climate where it rarely gets below 40 or above 100. In the video you say that is a good situation for a single stage heat pumps, but you don't really say why. You then go on to say a hot climate like Phoenix is where an inverter system is good, but that when it is 110 out it will go on full blast anyway. I guess I'm confused why you would suggest a single stage system for a climate where the normal high temperatures in the summer are in the 85-95 degree range. Wouldn't that be where an inverter system that rarely needs 100% cooling power be ideal? Genuinely trying to understand this as my house currently has a 35 year old furnace and no AC and I want put in a new system (most likely a heat pump) this year.
I'm in the exact same situation. If you get an answer, let me know!
I’d love to learn more about how one chooses a heat pump based on dry/wet climates (ie Denver vs Pacific Northwest)
I like in NY and it's currently 25°. I have a BOSCH IDS PREMIUM 4TON 20.SEER and it sucks. The aux heat I have is the10k electric heat kit and it does not heat my house above 68 when the sun is down. It sounds like a prop plane or a old work truck idling outside my house all night.
I would not recommend a heat pump without a dual fuel air handler.
I live in new york. I recently had a Bosch 20 seer IDs premium installed. It sounds like an old work truck running all day in any temp under 40°. I have a 1800 sq ft house and the aux heat is the 10K heat strip that Bosch makes for the air handler. Basically runs all night and doesn't stop until the sun is beaming down on the house. I would not recommend a heat pump unless you had a furnace, dual fuel unit.
Do you happen to have DIY system recommendations? Like ACIQ, MR cool, Blue ridge.
If you live in Idaho I will install one for you
@anthonybernier9952 I'm in SC.lol
@@DJTJ13 gotcha I was in Pensacola Florida 3 months ago for the past 3 years. I relocated to Idaho.
Don't buy DIY units. There are no parts available. They are throw away systems. Get a good name brand professionally installed.
Agree with this unfortunately
I watched one of your previous videos on the Bosch IDS Premium 20 Seer. Lost my HW Boiler in a flood and figured I'd convert to heat pump since I had solar panels.
Well, fast forward to 20 degree days, I can honestly say I HATE IT! This stupid heat pump never stops running. I didn't get dual fuel, but then again, the installer said it would be fine and I could just add the heat strip. Well, it sucks.
The thing sounds like an old work truck idling outside my house. It labors all day to keep my house in the mid to high 60s in any weather under 35 degrees... But the specs say it will produce heat down to -4°.
Yeah, I call bullshit. Maybe if you have dual fuel where the furnace is doing the work. I basically wasted 11k and my house is now being heated with my fireplace when the temps are below 35.
I WILL NOT be recommending heat pumps and I'm friggin pissed that NONE of this was mentioned in any of the resources I found.
After using the system and finding all this out, the installer tells me he mostly does dual fuel systems and doesn't really install systems that aren't.
I feel like filing a lawsuit against my installer for misleading me or punching him on his face. Either way I'll be spending money on attorneys.
HEAT PUMPS SUCK!
Sounds like something is wrong with the install if it always sounds like that... we install them in Colorado and don't have those complaints if it's always loud something is wrong. During a defrost cycle it will make some noise but it shouldn't be so loud that it sounds like a diesel idling, and it's not 24/7. Refrigerant Charge can cause issues if that's off but I would get a second opinion on things if the installer can't get it right
Thumbnail: Heat pumps make me CRAZY! 🤣
Denver here. What are your thoughts on "hyper heat" systems that claim they'll heat down to subzero temps?
Connecticut here they're popping up left and right.
If that tells you anything they are absolute beasts of a system.
They work as advertised and often do not need resistive backup. However, it’s not an efficient way to heat. The unit maintains capacity, yes, but efficiency drops off a cliff.
Yes they're good systems but below 10F they do lose efficiency, everything does except geothermal. Which means it's basically a cop of 2.0~2.5 or so and gets lower as it drops below that, but they definitely work
The problem is the average family can't afford a system that will qualify for any rebates because the minimum seer rating is 15.2 and to achieve that you have to have a evaporator coil to get there
New homes should come with solar panels, a rain water collection system and an electric vehicle charger in the garage.
Great!
I'd love a referral, but do not want to give out my address or number. You lost a good customer 😕 why not allow us to just enter zip and email?
Hi. Great channel. I appreciate your knowledge and enthusiasm. I just had a Bosch IDS 2.0 Heat Pump/Propane furnace installed in August 2024. It's now Jan 2025. I started with a Honeywell T6 thermostat that I had already on the wall from the old oil furnace, but the installer went to a T9. Fine, even though I suspected it wasn't needed. Maybe it was, I don't know. But after 6 failed service calls for vaious problems, including having Aux Heat come on "while" the outside fan was spinning, they went to a T10. Still no good as outside fan was still spinning while Aux heat on, until I got on the phone with tech support and chose the correct options in the Honeywell menu. This is all in addition to the installer leaving me with a gas leak that I only discovered after a month when I went to paint the pipes and cleaned them first, seeing bubbling at the Union. Terrible contractor. He didn't care, and demonstrated it in many ways, never helping me, or communicating with me at all after the sale. He pushed the sale and the switch to propane and the Bosch heat pump, and then abandoned me. His crew were nice guys, but they seem to not be adept at these new systems as they are all old school. I still had tipped them all generously at every failed service call, and did everything to make them comfortable during the initial install by feeding them, making sure they all had water every few hours, opened my bathroom freely etc. So, my problem is that my electric bill quadrupled in the fall in NJ because the heat pump was running. Now in January, the propane is running and the electric bill seems sort of ok. Still high, but not that much more than last year with the old 20+ year old oil furnace. But, my fear is the spring, when the heat pump kicks in again. I set it to come on at 45 degrees. Here's my concern. If the electric bill is going to be that high, maybe I should never use the heat pump and only the propane in all seasons. This is very disappointing because I thought I'd be saving money on the propane, but never expected these huge electric bills. Everything I've read about this system says it's state of the art technology and very efficient, but I'm not sure I'm getting the benefits of it. Looks like these guys sell the system, but just don't understand how to tweak it because of course this outside unit, the actual furnace and the thermostat all have to talk to each other for optimum performance. Is there a way I can hire you to take a look at all my settings via video to make sure all is well? I'm pretty handy and also have been building computers for decades, so I think I could do it with your help. Finally, I pay all my bills without complaining, but I just need to know that this system is setup correctly. Please let me know. Thanks.
Where are you located? Ur handle says NYC... We can probably find a local contractor to fix you up, Integrate Comfort Systems is based in New Jersey and services the city and they're familiar with these. Did they fix the refrigerant leak? It definitely needs to be recharged if they didn't deal with that and fix it properly I think they just don't know what they're doing.
@@TheHVACDopeShow Thanks for the reply. No refrigerant leak. I was mentioning a leak in the pipe (union), they installed to run propane into the house. I took care of that myself. I'm born and bred in NYC, but this house is in NJ. Have had a difficult time finding someone well versed in these units. I'll call Integrate Comfort Systems Monday. Do you have anyone else in NJ, or close by that you can also recommend? Thanks again.
I'm offended you think Minnesota is "cold"! lol.
Heat pumps will work down to 0F but they will be far less efficient and will cost you more than gas at that temperature.
I can confirm this. They are not less efficient they basically don't work in anything under 40° unless you have a supplemental heat source. I have the aux heat kit that Bosch makes for the air handler and it sucks. I have the 10kw kitkit and it can't keep up. My house was built in 2007, well insulated and we just had two back-to-back bills that were $350. We have solar panels but last winter our electric bill was around $150.
Not to mention it sounds like a work truck is idling outside my house all night because the thing can't produce heat efficiently.
I can confirm this. They are not less efficient they basically don't work in anything under 40° unless you have a supplemental heat source. I have the aux heat kit that Bosch makes for the air handler and it sucks. I have the 10kw kitkit and it can't keep up. My house was built in 2007, well insulated and we just had two back-to-back bills that were $350. We have solar panels but last winter our electric bill was around $150.
Not to mention it sounds like a work truck is idling outside my house all night because the thing can't produce heat efficiently.
“quite systems “. No spell check?
I came to say the same thing. Can you say “low budget?”
Not sure why you think a spell check would help as the spelling is correct . The choice of word is not.
Yeah, they are far from quiet in anything under 35°-40°. I Hate my Bosch IDS 20 seer. It sucks
@ Sounds like not a real problem and maybe worth getting over. #firstworldproblem
I'm also wondering where Phenix, AZ is. 🤷♂️ Editor needs to double check things more. But I've had the same issues. 🤣