How to disassemble and maintain the Lionsteel SR11 Integral Pocketknife
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2024
- Today, a disassembly of the Lionsteel SR11, which is pretty fiddly for an integral knife, but pretty easy for a Lionsteel integral. And ding-dong, the teflon's gone!
- แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thanks Nick, based on your unboxing video I had been worried. But now I know that I'll be able to disassemble my SR-11A. So cool that perfect blade centering is inherent to integrals!
Nick, thanks for this tutorial. Just had to take one apart and your “tension” advice made things...less tense 😃
Great video Nick!!! Now I understand how this integral knife works.....being in the outer side of the aluminum body, last screw just tightens up the whole system together with enough leverage to squeeze somewhat the soft aluminum frame. A smaller version of this knife could be a freaking gem! I bought the orange version at Blade. nice Italian craftsmanship indeed.
What's your take on the Sleipner steel? I personally love the Sleipner on my LionSteel M5! Not 100% stainless, but I heard that LionSteel achieved better edge retention with Sleipner than with M390.
Thank you Sir. Same process for my sr22. Had to use a good bit of heat to get the pivot loose. I'm honestly rather unimpressed with this knife. Especially for the price.
It's nice that you did a practice run of this first, so this video was nice and concise. Though it might have been funnier to see the initial disassembly :P
Way more interesting to watch than reg run of the mill knife with scales. You say most intregal knives are easy to disassemble, for me Lionsteel makes most I have seen. If I’m gonna carry a thicker blade knife I carry a version of this. Convex grind can still be pretty slicey and take some abuse. Lionsteel seems to be a step above most in innovation and coooool classy design. Thx for vid !!
Thanks for the tips. I'm thinking of buying the titanium handle version. I am assuming it has the steel racers as well.
Nick, Great video. What do you use for a source of heat to soften the lock-tite?
Hi Nick,
What do you think about the RUIKE P121 and P801sf Flipper knives? Both got Sanvic steel... the action looks so smooth....
Do a review for us if you can get your hands on it please.. Awesome reviews! Keep it Up!
Hey Nick, is the review od crkt folding razel coming? You told me few weeks (Maybe months?) ago that it was filmed and waiting to be published...
I like that knife ! How much is it and how often do you have to disassemble and service Nick ?
A credit card might be the right tool to deal with those bearing races.
Hello nick,
i am new in the knife world and bought a lionsteel kur as my first flipper.
Somehow it doesnt flip good anymore so i think i have to dissamble it and oil it.
Can you make a video on how to dissamble and oil the kur?
Greetings from the Netherlands!
Don't be Frank, Be Nick! :-D
I think your epic battles with the Atlas lock helped you with reassembling this knife .
Randomly my lock bar started to push in really hard by itself and won’t let me deploy blade... lube didn’t help. I hope this video will
It's weird that these always looked like some of the most solid knives I've ever seen but Vininull and AdvancedKnifeBro both made them fail. Granted it was through crazy abuse but both of them have tested folders that passed them same tests. I don't really care though it still looks like a sweet line of knives.
Yeah, that's deeply embarrassing. Makes me a bit uncomfortable with my own lack of hard-use testing, as in my (filmed weeks ago) review, I talk about the solidity of the lock.
I find it strange they stress test the budget Al version, instead of the Ti version. We all know Al is a lot weaker. If you need a hard use knife, you need to get the Ti version. Would you claim a BMW M3 is a slow car because you tested a BMW 3 version with the entry level engine and found it not a fast car? I find the SR-11's only weak point the Sleipner steel, due to it not being stainless and very susceptible to pitting if not properly maintained.
I have this same knife except the blade is black and man the action sucks. I thought about disassembling but I can totally see me not being able to get those washers back in. I wonder if the black coating is causing the action to suck. I read somewhere that it does take time to break in big imo I would think I wouldve already achieved that.
Fallkniven U2 upcoming?
I'm so confused, the blade has the IKBS symbol but the bearing are mounted in a ring like regular bearings. I thought IKBS used loose ball bearings.
Nick, off topic question, but do you oil your blades? The reason I ask, I bought a Rat 2 and a Cryo. The Rat 2 got wet in the rain and silly me, I didn't think to dry it (new to EDC). It started showing spots. I oiled it, as I read online, and the spots are gone and now I leave a bit of oil on it. No issues. The Cryo seems to be getting some spots as well, likely from sweaty hands.
Is there a oil you would recommend for blades?
Scott Billeck frog lube works great and it's food safe!
Thanks. Is it normal to have to oil the blades?
Is there a review of the Rike 1508 coming?
Of course!
Hi Nick, is this one truely runs on IKBS? Lionsteel says it is special IKBS even the balls are caged......
Crickets or frogs in the background?
Take that extra LocTite and turn it into a seagull... lol
If your review of this knife didn't turn me off buying it (which it didn't and I don't understand why) this video (which is great by the way) pretty much has. Overbuilt collectors item me thinks?
You gonna Review this and soon?
Merritt and sons mill works -- I'm going to bet there's a review up Saturday morning by approximately 8 am Eastern DST.
hehoff33 ok thanks
What's that chirping noise in the background!!!
+Pizzaxbandit Animals! Frogs, i think.
Keeping the windows open to get some natural fresh air while you do a disassembly.
Crickets perhaps?
William Burke Get some bug spray!
Pizzaxbandit its the sound of michigan
Finally first yayyyy
Oh.. dammit. Free spinning pivot. Booo.
Some advice on making it easier, and not gouging the shit out of the front of the frame shoving that stack thru like that: tape the blade, position the female pivot in the hole shallow but in enough to hang up the outside race on it, stack bearings, slide the tip of the blade into the frame from the back. Stop before you get past the plunge and stick a cutoff qtip stick in the male pivot side and drop the outer race down in the frame along the plunge. Now spear it and hold it with the qtip stick as you slide the blade out the front of the frame till the female pivot drops into its place, do the jiggle with the stick like you did with the watch tool to align the male side race, then the female side should slide in the rest of the way. Its the only way I found to deal with integrals without sweating the damage to the front of the frame. Itspretty easy to put noticeable marks into the aluminum cramming it in from the front like that, and you dont run the risk of springing the frame with a wedging device as some will surely try. Thats the way I do my sr1. Lion steel doesnt seem to get a thick layer of ano on their aluminum, so I dont challenge it if I can help it. Good vid. Still wanting one, but the damn free spinning pivot makes me angry.
Cricket.
Bugs, u got the tools from ACME?